Hey Paw Paw (and that sounds funny to me, because growing up in eastern Kentucky, that's how I would address my own grandpa!). I had an idea for a thin-wall box, still on my list to try and fabricate, where instead of a supporting gusset, the edges are wide box-joint fingers (like 1 1/4" wide in 1/4" or less plywood), glued of course but also reinforced with 2 nails or dowels going through each finger into the corresponding space in the other panel. The 'dowels' I had in mind for the thin material was actually 1/8" bamboo skewers. Since the direction of these pins would be 90 degrees to those going through the adjacent fingers from the other panel, this would provide strength in both directions. In other words, the left panel couldn't pull away from the right because the pins going through the right fingers into the left spaces hold it in place. And likewise the same concept preventing the right panel fingers from pulling out of the left's spaces. The application I had in mind for this was those boxes you stand up a bunch of magazines in, like a fat cereal box where one of the top corners was cut off at an angle (usually made from plastic, and not something you'd want gussets in the inside corners causing a space around the magazines). So you could have a line of these boxes on a shelf holding all your woodworking magazines, and could orient the boxes either with the tall side out and a label on it, or the side with the cut-off corner out, showing the magazine spines with their names and dates. I have no video skills of my own (not to mention lighting, editing software, etc.), nor really any desire currently to work all that out. But if you see merit in the design I've described, and mostly in the strength of that wide-fingered box joint, I'd love to see your execution of it. I just thought it would be a good tough joint for having a lot of weight on it, like a stack of heavy magazines. What do you think?
Nice work, love the plywood too. Great grain patterns. What is the composition of it? You could reinforce the top edge with flat strips and it will have enough material to roundover. Giving a smooth edge as square plywood will splinter quite easily
Nice corner profile! Very much like the extruded aluminum stuff they use for utility boxes. Actually I want to make a transport box with attached lid for a sailplane I have and it needs to be strong and lightweight. I was at first going to use gussets but I would like the lid to be interlocking with the base so it is stronger when closed and latched. So, now I'm thinking a glue up of two layers of 5mm ply one inside the other with interlocking and lapped 90° corners thereby avoiding use of gussets. This way the inner most layer can have a different height than the outer creating a rabbet without the use of the router. I always wanted a shop but I'm limited to a contractor table saw, chop saw, and router other hand tools. I can reinforce the corners with those bamboo skewers drilled and glued in across each joint if need be. Every time I made myself a shop I had to move or something. :( I also have a pneumatic pinner to start the boxes first joints. Any suggestions?
Hey Paw Paw, I don't like your push stick for the reason it trap's your hand. If something went wrong and the stick got caught and brought into the saw blade it would be impossible to get your hand out of the stick in time. Can you maybe make the same stick but with a one piece handle and get rid of the slot that's there now?
Good morning Paw Paw. I enjoyed the video and I am attempting to make drawers in the same way. Just a question for you regarding the router step. I tried this technique on my router and found that as the blade rotates anticlockwise at the table face. My approach was from right side of the cutter nearest the guide (as in the video) but the blade was pulling the stock through the cutter (rotating in same direction as direction of timber) and resulted in a very poor finish. I tried an approach from the left side of the blade so pushing timber into an oncoming blade, but that resulted in a poor outcome as the blade removed the timber from the guide side and the timber was shattering. I feel I should approach from the guide side into an oncoming blade, but my router table has a clear arrow crossed out suggesting "Not this way". Surely it depends on which side of the blade you pass your timber. I feel it should be into an oncoming cut somehow.
Be very careful when making this type of box. Although it is very simple process, please be very careful working around the router bit. Look at the grain of wood and consider that when running the material through. The blade runs counterclockwise. The material should run through the blade so that the pushes toward the fence
I build speaker boxes and need the lightest, strongest, material I can get at a good price. I'm currently using birch plywood and southern yellow pine, any recommendations appreciated 👍
Use this method. It is lightweight plywood and yet is very strong. These corners work great and the nice thing is that there are numerous methods to make the corners
@@PawPawsWorkShop love the approach in the video that's what I was looking for! I haven't found anything yet that beats good plywood and love overlapping different panels with dovetail joints that highlight the difference between the southern yellow pine and plywood! Love the tips, and I agree MDF is just too heavy and wears out tools faster and cost my customers more for shipping. Still loving my double laminated 3in thick select pine faces with heavy polyurethane finish contrasted with the plywood fun stuff!! Thanks again 👍
If I did this but with Balsa wood to save weight, would it be strong enough to be useable? Also, what is the wieght and dimensions of the box you made here?
Just plain mitres and painters tape, then triangluar profile in the inside corners would be my way..it gives a larger glue surface area and no risky routing required... 🤔 Nice boxes tho ! 😎👍☘️🍺
@PawPawsWorkShop do you have any expert pointers for this beginner.. I was thinking to add a thin piece of wood to the inside that would support the hinges.. am I thinking that through correct?
I don't have the tools to make boxes like this but I need something exactly like this. How would I go about getting 6 of these made somewhere? What do I do?
There are many ways to build a box. Some are super easy while others take a little more effort and some are just plain hard. This one falls somewhere in the middle to easy
![Basic Plywood Boxes [video 445]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/li5AIXw3XPE/mqdefault.jpg)
Im making an arcade stick so this video is exactly what I needed!
Never apologize for teaching specific information! It needs to be out there!
Thank you for your comments. I appreciate it very much
no way lol I'm planning to create a leverless arcade controller. Although I'm still in the planning state, still gathering materials
Very nice! I'm looking to build a light weight spice rack and I'll give this technique a try. Thank you!
Glad to help. Good luck with your project! Thank you for watching
Very nice work u teach very professional and clear step by step. Thanks god blessing u
Thank you very much. I appreciate you comments very much
very nice. a lot of people would problebly say thet these boxes are not strong. But they are.
Yes, they are very strong
Something like that would make good blanket boxes with a lid. Interesting take on the interior rails.
Thank you. May be a little to light for big blanket.
Slick. Nice work
Thank you very much
Super helpful video!! Thanks for making this. Very informative
You're so welcome!
Great project and video.
Cheers from London England 👍🏴
Thank you very much.
Hey Paw Paw (and that sounds funny to me, because growing up in eastern Kentucky, that's how I would address my own grandpa!). I had an idea for a thin-wall box, still on my list to try and fabricate, where instead of a supporting gusset, the edges are wide box-joint fingers (like 1 1/4" wide in 1/4" or less plywood), glued of course but also reinforced with 2 nails or dowels going through each finger into the corresponding space in the other panel. The 'dowels' I had in mind for the thin material was actually 1/8" bamboo skewers.
Since the direction of these pins would be 90 degrees to those going through the adjacent fingers from the other panel, this would provide strength in both directions. In other words, the left panel couldn't pull away from the right because the pins going through the right fingers into the left spaces hold it in place. And likewise the same concept preventing the right panel fingers from pulling out of the left's spaces.
The application I had in mind for this was those boxes you stand up a bunch of magazines in, like a fat cereal box where one of the top corners was cut off at an angle (usually made from plastic, and not something you'd want gussets in the inside corners causing a space around the magazines). So you could have a line of these boxes on a shelf holding all your woodworking magazines, and could orient the boxes either with the tall side out and a label on it, or the side with the cut-off corner out, showing the magazine spines with their names and dates.
I have no video skills of my own (not to mention lighting, editing software, etc.), nor really any desire currently to work all that out. But if you see merit in the design I've described, and mostly in the strength of that wide-fingered box joint, I'd love to see your execution of it. I just thought it would be a good tough joint for having a lot of weight on it, like a stack of heavy magazines. What do you think?
Excellent idea, thank you very much
Beautiful. My brain's immediately going to a _stackable_ version. Hmm…
I like the idea of stacking! Great idea.
Have you ever glued yourself to the project. That ca sets up fast.
lol, not to the project. But yes, my fingers have been glued together. Starbond has a product to release the glue from your fingers
Nice work, love the plywood too. Great grain patterns. What is the composition of it? You could reinforce the top edge with flat strips and it will have enough material to roundover. Giving a smooth edge as square plywood will splinter quite easily
Nice corner profile! Very much like the extruded aluminum stuff they use for utility boxes. Actually I want to make a transport box with attached lid for a sailplane I have and it needs to be strong and lightweight. I was at first going to use gussets but I would like the lid to be interlocking with the base so it is stronger when closed and latched. So, now I'm thinking a glue up of two layers of 5mm ply one inside the other with interlocking and lapped 90° corners thereby avoiding use of gussets. This way the inner most layer can have a different height than the outer creating a rabbet without the use of the router. I always wanted a shop but I'm limited to a contractor table saw, chop saw, and router other hand tools. I can reinforce the corners with those bamboo skewers drilled and glued in across each joint if need be. Every time I made myself a shop I had to move or something. :( I also have a pneumatic pinner to start the boxes first joints. Any suggestions?
@@kirkglundal4289 I think you have an excellent plan
Hello enjoyed your video. thank you
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching
Thank you. Helpful
You're welcome!
Tyvm, the video i was looking for
You’re very welcome
Very nice job. An added touch might be to laser engrave an image on the box.
An image of a box on the box
Yes I will be adding a laser image
Shoot sir i had been using that gluing tip for years in building models for my model Railroad, didn't know it was so widely known???
Model railroads and model airplanes use this technique a lot but not used that much in other areas
Hey Paw Paw, I don't like your push stick for the reason it trap's your hand. If something went wrong and the stick got caught and brought into the saw blade it would be impossible to get your hand out of the stick in time. Can you maybe make the same stick but with a one piece handle and get rid of the slot that's there now?
Thank you for the suggestion
Not bad not bad at all
Thank you very much. I appreciate you visiting my channel
Good morning Paw Paw. I enjoyed the video and I am attempting to make drawers in the same way.
Just a question for you regarding the router step. I tried this technique on my router and found that as the blade rotates anticlockwise at the table face. My approach was from right side of the cutter nearest the guide (as in the video) but the blade was pulling the stock through the cutter (rotating in same direction as direction of timber) and resulted in a very poor finish. I tried an approach from the left side of the blade so pushing timber into an oncoming blade, but that resulted in a poor outcome as the blade removed the timber from the guide side and the timber was shattering. I feel I should approach from the guide side into an oncoming blade, but my router table has a clear arrow crossed out suggesting "Not this way". Surely it depends on which side of the blade you pass your timber. I feel it should be into an oncoming cut somehow.
Be very careful when making this type of box. Although it is very simple process, please be very careful working around the router bit. Look at the grain of wood and consider that when running the material through. The blade runs counterclockwise. The material should run through the blade so that the pushes toward the fence
as a newbie, I would have liked to see clearly what you were doing instead of being told what you were doing.
This is not a beginner type of box. I have other videos that are designed more for a beginner
@@PawPawsWorkShopthis is the 'beginner series'... according to the video title..
@@PawPawsWorkShopjust accept it you made a mistake
What more do you need to see? Need someone to hold your hand?
I build speaker boxes and need the lightest, strongest, material I can get at a good price. I'm currently using birch plywood and southern yellow pine, any recommendations appreciated 👍
Use this method. It is lightweight plywood and yet is very strong. These corners work great and the nice thing is that there are numerous methods to make the corners
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you for the response!! Any material you think would be better than birch plywood?
The plywood is strong. MDF will work if the speakers are not moved a lot. Underlayment is inexpensive plywood will work also
@@PawPawsWorkShop love the approach in the video that's what I was looking for! I haven't found anything yet that beats good plywood and love overlapping different panels with dovetail joints that highlight the difference between the southern yellow pine and plywood!
Love the tips, and I agree MDF is just too heavy and wears out tools faster and cost my customers more for shipping. Still loving my double laminated 3in thick select pine faces with heavy polyurethane finish contrasted with the plywood fun stuff!! Thanks again 👍
If I did this but with Balsa wood to save weight, would it be strong enough to be useable? Also, what is the wieght and dimensions of the box you made here?
Balsa is very lightweight material and I would not recommend to make a box out of it unless it was very small.
Just plain mitres and painters tape, then triangluar profile in the inside corners would be my way..it gives a larger glue surface area and no risky routing required... 🤔
Nice boxes tho !
😎👍☘️🍺
That works fine but I am always wanting to show different methods for TH-cam land. Lol
@@PawPawsWorkShop always happy to learn new methods... my late father, a cabinet maker, use to say "every day is a school day" ... 😎👍
What kind of wood is that?
This is 5mm floor underlayment
Would you be able to build this with a lid?
Certainly, you can add a lid
@PawPawsWorkShop do you have any expert pointers for this beginner.. I was thinking to add a thin piece of wood to the inside that would support the hinges.. am I thinking that through correct?
Yes, that would work. That will provide support for the small screws.
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you for the feedback. I will give it a try.
hello uncle, have a nice day
Thanks
👍🥇🥇🏴
Thank you
I don't have the tools to make boxes like this but I need something exactly like this. How would I go about getting 6 of these made somewhere? What do I do?
Check with local cabinet shops and local finish carpenters to make these for you
Ok thank you
@@PawPawsWorkShop
Use that pushing tool, before you loos fingers.
Thank you for your concern
☺👍👍👍👌
Thank you. I appreciate your support.
Hooooooo, original and Nevers Seen 🥺hooooooo....american ?
Yep!
A very precarious way to route on the router table. You were routing in the counter direction with the workpiece between the fence and the bit.
Yes, you’re correct. It is very small pieces and great care is required
the two profiles on the triangle shape pieces completely lost me... even at max pic quality
Cut a 45° angle, flip and cut another 45° to make a point.
Not beginner
There are many ways to build a box. Some are super easy while others take a little more effort and some are just plain hard. This one falls somewhere in the middle to easy
Based on the title of this channel, I will subscribe. 🫡
Welcome to my channel. I am dedicated to teaching and helping people with their woodworking adventures.