I'm a 25 year engineering veteran. This machine frightens me. I mean, I was okay until I saw that the metal housing of the CD-ROM was set *inside* the power supply! :)
I absolutely love the subtle humor in your videos. For example, the broken CD drive opening and closing on its own in the background while you are talking. Please keep up the excellent content!
You may want to look into round scsi cables, this way there's better airflow and dust can't settle on them as easy as ribbon cables. This is a very exciting series
@@ActionRetro Hey, did you make sure to check on the SCSI IDs and termination? Classic macs can work perfectly or behave really weird if the SCSI IDs aren't set right, or your bus isn't properly terminated. A lack of proper termination in particular can cause the behavior you're seeing, as signals can "bounce" back at the end of the bus. These SE's were never meant to have quite so many devices daisy chained on the inside, let alone things like a CD drive or that SD reader. It might behave really badly without everything set up properly.
Idk if you realized it already but that Panasonic drive has almost the same bezel so you can pop off that white bezels off and put the blue and black ones since it's the same model, only mod it would need is a new emergency eject hole :3
You mentioned the quality paint in the last video. I was thinking it could be vinyl-based spray paint. My buddy swears by the stuff, and he is painted several old consoles with it. It really adheres and lays down much better than standard enamel. I'm thinking that's what they could have used on this machine.
Jeff J: Vinyl-based spray paint, eh? It means nothing that I’ve never heard of this before - but chances are it’s gotta be an improvement on regular satin spray paint which tends to scratch or scrape off too easily (especially on metal). I realise it’s not professional “powder coating” spray paint: I just hoped that one day I’d be able to find some sort of thin, transparent, spray-on primer (of some sort), to overcome the “scraping off” issue. Matt is too dull and gloss is too, well, glossy. Thanks for mentioning vinyl-based spray paint, Jeff, I’ll look into that for my future projects (or to go over my scraped ones!).
After 10min. research, it turns out there are spray paints for vinyl (like car seats) and others specifically for plastics. The plastics ones are called “Vinyl Dye”, which supposedly soaks in to the plastic like a dye - exactly like RetroBrite does to bleach the free radicals in the plastic. Helpfully, a UK company has provided some examples of projects they or their customers have done: • How To Paint Plastic (Black to white) www.vinyldye.co.uk/Paint-Plastic-From-Black-to-White • *How To Paint Plastic - Living Room AV System Plastic* (Paint with Vinyl Dye) www.vinyldye.co.uk/How-to-Paint-Plastic-with-Plastic-Paint-From-VinylDye-Surround-Sound-System Both are real interesting. It looks like I’m gonna test out the vinyl dye spray’s pretty soon (now I know what to use). Must say, though, this stuff isn’t cheap - will have to look on eBay for better prices. Thanks, Jeff, for the recommendation - your friend was spot-on with that.
Book mending tape. I used to know someone who insisted on using such tape supplied by Demco at nearly $20 per roll. A Jaz drive shouldn't be any slower than a regular hard disk, considering it is a hard disk itself.
In regards to the PSU, I would recommend substituting a pico-type PSU, as it's easier to use, can run to a smaller modern barrel jack at the back, and handle much more watts of power. Heck, you could likely put two inside the shell of the original PSU and get almost 600W out of two smaller laptop power supplies. Also to keep the original spirit of the machine alive, how about when you go to paint the optical drive you paint the exterior and faceplate black, but paint the inside tray blue. Just an idea. Love your videos!!!
I LOVE this machine. Nothing better than working on someone whom spent HOURS modding their machine to do....god knows what but I love it. It might be jank, but someone but a lot of time and effort into this machine.
I suspect this guy didn't expect anyone else to ever be looking at this. This kind of improvisation was par for the course in the 90s. I had something similar for my old A1200 back then. 2.5" to 3.5" cable adapter, with the cable running out of the A1200 into mini tower PC case, with an AT PSU. It had a 3.5" HDD (much more capacity for considerably less price than 2.5" drives) and an IDE CD-ROM (I crimped another IDE connector onto the cable, never expected it to work, but it did). Never has a Jazz drive though. I did have a Zip (100MB) drive, connected via Squirrel SCSI interface. Wouldn't do anything like that now. But, you don't need to. Everything is available to build stuff properly for reasonable prices.
Legit questiom: are you not worried about shocks from crts? Ive seen in a few of your vids where you dont discharge the crt and disconnect the anode. Freaks me out!
Normally those old macs have a bleed resistor that will slowly discharge the CRT on its own. That being said it is always safest to check by grounding out the anode cap just in case, but the rest of the machine besides the cap is all standard voltages.
The flyback on one of those might hold at most 5kV. And while that sounds like a lot, it's a static DC discharge much like touching a light switch in winter. So while it smarts a bit, no damage is done. I once forgot to ground my screwdriver to the frame of a Street Fighter II cabinet and took about 50kV while popping the anode cap. The screwdriver went flying and stuck in the ceiling tile, and my arm was numb for about an hour. But it instantly occurred to me what I'd forgotten to do. :) Incidentally, I've also grabbed a live deflection yoke on a running Tecmo Bowl machine. They had one up-firing monitor that was right behind the coin door, so when I reached up to unlatch the control board I accidentally grabbed the yoke. Hurt like hell when my arm jerked back and I hit my elbow on the frame of the coin door. And again, numb fingers for about 10 minutes, but otherwise no damage from the shock.
You have a new subscriber. I just watched parts 1 and 2. I really want to see this cleaned up and running as the original owner intended. I’m also curious to know what was on the original drives!
Sounds like they took the contents of a Disk Tools floppy and put it on the CD. This type of installation sine 7.1 will only boot from a locked volume.
Partly yes, I guess. Apart from that, the original SE/30 never supported OS versions above 7.5.5 so I'm not surprised 7.6 refuses to install. 8.1 even required an 68040 CPU so even less of a surprise there. I suspect Dr. Frankenstein ran 7.5.5, the installer is on the original hard drive.
Every time a picture of that Mac pops up in my recommended video feed, I've got this inkling of a memory about a modded black mac from sometime around 2003. It would've caught my attention because I really began cutting my teeth on an Mac SE (one might say I took a "byte of the apple" ), but ultimately the machine would've been too old to hold my interest for long. I read a lot of Slashdot, Fark, Metku Mods, and Hack-a-Day in those days and I'm tempted to go see if I can find anything, but that's a warren I know better than get into.
Your best bet for an OS for that Mac is 7.5.5, which usually means installing 7.5.3 first then running the updater to 7.5.5. You could run 7.1 instead, but a lot of useful stuff needs 7.5+. Another thing to note is that the SE/30 is not actually "32-bit clean", which is why 7.6 won't run on it. While it can run in 32-bit addressing mode, it needs some special software to do it properly, because the ROM still contains functions that rely on 24-bit addressing mode. While it's possible that your replacement ROM may have patched these routines, the model identifier still tells the OS that it's a machine that isn't supported by that version. Also, OS 8 and 8.1 require at least an '040 processor without jumping through some hoops, which also require a truly 32-bit clean Mac like the IIci. Just goes to show that Apple's "recent" history of locking out older mac models has been going on for technical reasons since the 90's. Even earlier, now that I think about it, as the original 128k mac can't run certain versions of system 6 because of the memory requirements.
I say leave the JAZ drive as the main swappable disk. I think thats the main attraction of this old unit. Hook up the external scsi JAZ drive to your epic desktop G3 so you can swap files between them. [i love using old media] Put the SD/SCSI board in there and file a slot in one of the grooves in the front panel to access the SD card. Try using a sub-1gb SD card and booting off that maybe? The CD read errors may be because it needs the iso9660 CD driver. or the CD toolkit drivers for non-apple cd drives.
"dat tape" ? DAT tapes are a real thing... and not something written by people too lazy to type in an extra letter. It's hardly difficult to type "that". 🙄
It was for 'music production'...so what about a 1/4" mono output. Can plug it into an amp, and much better than that random speaker wire dangling out the back, or all those speakers glued to where there werent any grills.
The external jazzdisc runs at parallel-port-scsi emulation the internal one runs at full-scsi speeds and should be faster. The blue-painted frontbezel should fit the new cd-drive if you remove it's front-bezel.
I thought the external Jaz drive was true SCSI. Unfortunately, it looks like the new CD drive uses a different style of faceplate. They're not universal like laptop ones.
Monchi Abbad considering i do have an external jaz disk mounted in a PowerMacG4 it is definitely SCSI inside the external box. I don’t even think Jaz drive even existed with parallel. ZIP did. Zip exist one parallel, IDE and USB form. I’m pretty sure JAZ are only SCSI.
I think you will find that the external Jaz drive has either high-density 50-pin SCSI connectors or 25-pin SCSI connectors, like the back of the Mac itself. Centronics parallel port weirdness was mainly a PC thing, for those who couldn’t be bothered to add a SCSI card…
There are extensions from Toast and FWB that will allow previously unsupported SCSI CD roms (at least some of them) to work with your SE. I suspect that your Teac and others are just not recognized completely. The support list can usually be found in the documentation for the extension. I'll see if I can find a link for you. macintoshgarden.org/apps/fwb-cd-rom-toolkit-159
I would create backups of all the disks from the mac. who knows how much longer those will last, considering how old they are. plus, they could hold clues to finding more about who owned it.
I don't know how well two separate power supplies would play together (presumably fine as long as you common the ground?), but they do make micro computer power supplies that could easily fit in the spare space to power one or two of the drives.
Have you considered removing all the screws and other mounting hardware and just using tape for everything? I feel like that would be the fulfillment of the original vision. Also, tape the ram down for an extra secure connection.
OK this is my introduction to your channel. For this, I'm subscribing. I'm the original Mac hater, but this one has some balls. It must have been a furnace in that case to turn that reinforced packing tape to dust! This is shade tree "engineering" at its finest. Only a Mac would force people into desperate maneuvers like this! :)
I remember using SCSI, back in the day, on my old Acorn A3010. It was one of the old computing dark arts to get it to work, along with the wired networking that used coaxial cable with BNC connectors. I don't miss messing about with dip switches and termination settings.
I'm leaning more towards some creative sheet metal work. 3D printed stuff needs to be fairly thick in order to be strong and space is clearly at a premium in here. Obviously the power supply needs repairs too if the guts are replaced with another bare PCB like the existing one. Looks like the original Dr. Frankenstein took a jigsaw to the case!
Excellent!! In like the idea of the SCSI -SD card replacing the existing hard drive, who knows how long that HD would still run, even if you got it working. I hope you can get the internal JAZ drive working, the whole idea of the is really cool. And, hey, what is up with your subscriber count? Last I saw you were working towards 500! Really cool, and I guess I can now always say "I knew him when!" ;-)
Just so you know, there pretty much is no CD-ROM compatible with the Macintosh that is faster than a Jaz drive. In fact, the Jaz drive is faster than most SCSI hard drives that I've used. I have several Jaz drives for testing and troubleshooting my vintage Macs and it is invariably quite a bit faster than any drive I've used. Even upto a Power Macintosh, the Jaz still beats the internal stock drives.
Glad you got the Noctua fan upgrade working and found a working CD-Rom drive. Does the SCSI to SD have active SCSI termination? I don't miss dealing with that...
Great videos, use the floppy EMU to install 7.5.3. USE FLAT Black, not glossy. I restored a SE/30 that had a bad case...used "concrete colored paint" with a saved Apple logo...looks great now.
Also, instead of stacking SD2SCSI on top of the Jaz drive, reverse and stick the SD Card out the back in the slot if not using the network/video bus card.
i wonder if a hot knife or X-acto blade adapter for a soldering iron could be used to heat up or dissolve the glue holding the CD-rom faceplate on the case? It may be slow going to keep the heat down and not damage the case, however I think the combination of a bit of focused heat and a sharp blade could melt or cook off the glue.
this guy deserves to be "restored" to its modded state, restoring the paint and fixing the broken plastics, maybe even replace the discdrive w/ a black one and make it appear like a NEXT
I was given a box full of tape rolls that were being thrown out because they were partially dried up. Since they were free I tried to rejuvenate them by applying steam to them. It helped a little, but otherwise the tape was too far gone.
I know that bad caps can cause issues with SCSI. I was thinking that was the issue with CD-ROMs until the last drive worked, that or the ROM disk does not have drivers for the other drives. A SCSI fault could still be an issue with the SCSI2SD, but I've also read that those need to be formatted just so to work. Lido is the popular drive setup utility for this. Of note, the highest supported OS for an SE/30 is 7.5.5, which is why 7.6.1 refused to install. There are apparently ways to get 7.6.1 and even 8/8.0 running on it but they need some modification.
The TEAC drive should work if you had the CD-ROM extension installed. A thing I found back when I mucked around with old Macs is that special drivers for removable storage (other than CD-ROM) were not required as long as a Mac formatted disc was inserted into each removable drive at boot. The system would load the driver off the disc and use it for other discs in the drive. One caveat, it's best to initialize all the removable disks of all types with the same software. If you mixed it up like using SCSI Director on a SyQuest, FWB Hard Disk Toolkit on a Bernoulli, and Apple's own on Zip 100, it could cause conflicts and crashes. I settled on using HDT on everything, especially because it had software RAID support. I had to RAID0 stripe four hard drives across both SCSI buses in a 110Mhz Radius Mac clone to get fast enough write speed for Media 100 video capture at 150K per frame. For CD-ROM there's FWB CD-ROM Toolkit. Where you can snag a copy is in the downloads on Low End Mac for one of the PowerPC clones. I forget which clone but one of the downloads has a full version of FWB CDT that includes disc changer support. Lastly, every classic Mac should be running RAM Charger to replace Apple's terrible memory management. And it should also be running Connectix RAM Doubler, but only using the virtual memory function, which is far better than how Apple did it. The RAM compression was BS anyway. Apple should have licensed technology from both of those, but instead they kept making changes with every new System and MacOS release to repeatedly break RAM Charger compatibility. With the 9.1 update, RAM Charger's essential memory management works perfectly but some of the not-necessary accessory functions were once again broken by Apple. Apparently since Jump Development didn't push out yet another update, Apple didn't pursue further retaliation for being shown up. RAM Charger's management also works in 9.2.x.
I kinda like the blue CD Drive front. Why not keep it? It fits well with the Keyboard Mouse combo of this Mac AND manages to "break up" the black of the case. Pure Black may look to "professional" for this mod.
I've seen that reinforced tape before - does it smell? The stuff I remember had a pretty nasty chemical smell to it. Can't really remember where I've seen it but I think both on cardboard boxes and inside computers, as part of factory cable management.
I saw you used at 19:28 some crimped splicing sleeves. The Noctua fans come with these little clear and orange 3M snap splicers that I swear by, they work extremely well and are much easier to deal with in my experience, in case you ever do this again.
As far as I remember many old macs refused to boot from hard drives not manufactured explicitly for apple (these had a tiny apple logo on the sticker).
The system folder from the CD would probably work with the original rom card. I'd guess it's probably System 7.1 vintage without the extensions necessary for a 32-bit clean rom.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a 25 year engineering veteran. This machine frightens me. I mean, I was okay until I saw that the metal housing of the CD-ROM was set *inside* the power supply! :)
Retro collectors in 2040 are going to go through all these old souped up, modded and repaired computers and find noctua fans everywhere.
Haha that's a good thing, I guess?
@@stefarossi those noctua's will likely outlive every other component in there.
@@bryceschug486 ew
I absolutely love the subtle humor in your videos. For example, the broken CD drive opening and closing on its own in the background while you are talking. Please keep up the excellent content!
Hah thanks man!
the mods the original maker did are absolutely disgusting and I love it. I want to see where this project goes.
That dust from the tape was once the adhesive. The heat of the CRT has cooked everything to do with that ancient tape.
I remember my father using those to tape over casettes to "restore" the write protection part.
and the fact it's packing tape. Packing tape isn't meant to last at all.
It looked like it was a self adhesive velcro type of tape when he removed it from the CDROM drive
In an old-style pc, there was a moth in the innards "Bug" on a piece of tape.
@@Brendan_Keyport-WA7BMK Isn't it fiber glass tape? Thus the strands running through the tape.
It’s not cursed. It’s 𝔹 𝕃 𝕌 ℝ 𝕊 𝔼 𝔻
lol
Cute!
Blessed
You may want to look into round scsi cables, this way there's better airflow and dust can't settle on them as easy as ribbon cables. This is a very exciting series
Get or make rounded SCSI cables. It'll save a lot of space.
I second this comment! Make rounded SCSI cables, it'll make the interior much nicer.
Wasn't there a reason SCSI cables weren't round?
@@mentaluproar yes. Cost. Possibly signal integrity.
I used to use an razer blade and cut apart cable into 4-5 cable groups and just zip tied into a round cable. Those were the days...
I am a newer person so idk what the difference between SCSI and IDE is but it does look like an IDE cable from afar
Hell yeah for choosing to follow path of darkness
🤣🤘
Emperor macintine
Mac Wars Episode 3: Revenge Of The Disc
Oh damn that's good!
@@ActionRetro It just felt perfect!
@@ActionRetro
Hey, did you make sure to check on the SCSI IDs and termination? Classic macs can work perfectly or behave really weird if the SCSI IDs aren't set right, or your bus isn't properly terminated. A lack of proper termination in particular can cause the behavior you're seeing, as signals can "bounce" back at the end of the bus.
These SE's were never meant to have quite so many devices daisy chained on the inside, let alone things like a CD drive or that SD reader. It might behave really badly without everything set up properly.
Idk if you realized it already but that Panasonic drive has almost the same bezel so you can pop off that white bezels off and put the blue and black ones since it's the same model, only mod it would need is a new emergency eject hole :3
I was thinking the same thing! I think I'm going to double-down on getting that old bezel out of there though.
You mentioned the quality paint in the last video. I was thinking it could be vinyl-based spray paint. My buddy swears by the stuff, and he is painted several old consoles with it. It really adheres and lays down much better than standard enamel. I'm thinking that's what they could have used on this machine.
Jeff J: Vinyl-based spray paint, eh? It means nothing that I’ve never heard of this before - but chances are it’s gotta be an improvement on regular satin spray paint which tends to scratch or scrape off too easily (especially on metal).
I realise it’s not professional “powder coating” spray paint: I just hoped that one day I’d be able to find some sort of thin, transparent, spray-on primer (of some sort), to overcome the “scraping off” issue.
Matt is too dull and gloss is too, well, glossy.
Thanks for mentioning vinyl-based spray paint, Jeff, I’ll look into that for my future projects (or to go over my scraped ones!).
After 10min. research, it turns out there are spray paints for vinyl (like car seats) and others specifically for plastics.
The plastics ones are called “Vinyl Dye”, which supposedly soaks in to the plastic like a dye - exactly like RetroBrite does to bleach the free radicals in the plastic.
Helpfully, a UK company has provided some examples of projects they or their customers have done:
• How To Paint Plastic (Black to white) www.vinyldye.co.uk/Paint-Plastic-From-Black-to-White
• *How To Paint Plastic - Living Room AV System Plastic* (Paint with Vinyl Dye) www.vinyldye.co.uk/How-to-Paint-Plastic-with-Plastic-Paint-From-VinylDye-Surround-Sound-System
Both are real interesting. It looks like I’m gonna test out the vinyl dye spray’s pretty soon (now I know what to use). Must say, though, this stuff isn’t cheap - will have to look on eBay for better prices.
Thanks, Jeff, for the recommendation - your friend was spot-on with that.
imagine if the original owner was just browsing youtube one day and found these videos
That optical drive randomly opening and closing is perfect. I’d leave it that way
🤣
The demoscene boombox. You probably need go back to the original ROM to get the OS to boot. Probably the custom ROM is just not compatible.
Truee!
Cant wait to see what you have in store for this Mac, awesome stuff! :D
Book mending tape. I used to know someone who insisted on using such tape supplied by Demco at nearly $20 per roll.
A Jaz drive shouldn't be any slower than a regular hard disk, considering it is a hard disk itself.
Is so crazy anybody upgraded that thing so much, I did not have a cd rom in any of my 386 or 486.
I eventually bought a CD drive for my 486 when I bought a Sound Blaster CD card/ drive combo kit.
Got my first CD drive with a SB16 kit. My parents wanted it for Encarta, I wanted it because Doom and Wolfenstein are better with sounds.
As always, these restore/repair video are super satisfying to watch. Excited for the next episode!
Tuned in from another episode just to see what's on that SE/30 Stuff CD.
In regards to the PSU, I would recommend substituting a pico-type PSU, as it's easier to use, can run to a smaller modern barrel jack at the back, and handle much more watts of power. Heck, you could likely put two inside the shell of the original PSU and get almost 600W out of two smaller laptop power supplies.
Also to keep the original spirit of the machine alive, how about when you go to paint the optical drive you paint the exterior and faceplate black, but paint the inside tray blue.
Just an idea. Love your videos!!!
Very interesting ideas! Thank you!
Oh hey xPLAYn
I LOVE this machine. Nothing better than working on someone whom spent HOURS modding their machine to do....god knows what but I love it. It might be jank, but someone but a lot of time and effort into this machine.
Whatever you do with the optical drive, you need to keep the same colour scheme!
Ahh, the DVD drive, the "state of the art" of the day! And the SD, a newer technology.
I suspect this guy didn't expect anyone else to ever be looking at this. This kind of improvisation was par for the course in the 90s. I had something similar for my old A1200 back then. 2.5" to 3.5" cable adapter, with the cable running out of the A1200 into mini tower PC case, with an AT PSU. It had a 3.5" HDD (much more capacity for considerably less price than 2.5" drives) and an IDE CD-ROM (I crimped another IDE connector onto the cable, never expected it to work, but it did). Never has a Jazz drive though. I did have a Zip (100MB) drive, connected via Squirrel SCSI interface.
Wouldn't do anything like that now. But, you don't need to. Everything is available to build stuff properly for reasonable prices.
That would be neat if the person who actually put this together, watched the video.
that is one hideous but yet beautiful macintosh SE! 😛Great Vid!
This is such a DIY beast! I love it.
Legit questiom: are you not worried about shocks from crts? Ive seen in a few of your vids where you dont discharge the crt and disconnect the anode. Freaks me out!
His hand was right on the board behind the flyback while he was removing the fan. I was so worried.
Alex Tirrell the PCB does not see any of the voltage going to the CRT, so no real risk there.
Normally those old macs have a bleed resistor that will slowly discharge the CRT on its own. That being said it is always safest to check by grounding out the anode cap just in case, but the rest of the machine besides the cap is all standard voltages.
Yeah that gets me everytime he was going in there
The flyback on one of those might hold at most 5kV. And while that sounds like a lot, it's a static DC discharge much like touching a light switch in winter. So while it smarts a bit, no damage is done.
I once forgot to ground my screwdriver to the frame of a Street Fighter II cabinet and took about 50kV while popping the anode cap. The screwdriver went flying and stuck in the ceiling tile, and my arm was numb for about an hour. But it instantly occurred to me what I'd forgotten to do. :)
Incidentally, I've also grabbed a live deflection yoke on a running Tecmo Bowl machine. They had one up-firing monitor that was right behind the coin door, so when I reached up to unlatch the control board I accidentally grabbed the yoke. Hurt like hell when my arm jerked back and I hit my elbow on the frame of the coin door. And again, numb fingers for about 10 minutes, but otherwise no damage from the shock.
You have a new subscriber. I just watched parts 1 and 2. I really want to see this cleaned up and running as the original owner intended. I’m also curious to know what was on the original drives!
Sounds like they took the contents of a Disk Tools floppy and put it on the CD. This type of installation sine 7.1 will only boot from a locked volume.
This
I miss that haste of how a Mac would eject the disk 😂
That’s not a cursed Macintosh se that’s a blursed Macintosh se
Was gonna say “DreMEL, dreMEL, dreMel”! But I like the blue faceplate for the CD and the green and red of the Jazz. Why not keep those?
Could the BMOW be the cause of all the macOS install errors?
Partly yes, I guess. Apart from that, the original SE/30 never supported OS versions above 7.5.5 so I'm not surprised 7.6 refuses to install. 8.1 even required an 68040 CPU so even less of a surprise there. I suspect Dr. Frankenstein ran 7.5.5, the installer is on the original hard drive.
This is the second or third time where you said that Teac works and then tried to use it and it didn’t work.
This thing seemed like a fire hazard .
Every time a picture of that Mac pops up in my recommended video feed, I've got this inkling of a memory about a modded black mac from sometime around 2003. It would've caught my attention because I really began cutting my teeth on an Mac SE (one might say I took a "byte of the apple" ), but ultimately the machine would've been too old to hold my interest for long. I read a lot of Slashdot, Fark, Metku Mods, and Hack-a-Day in those days and I'm tempted to go see if I can find anything, but that's a warren I know better than get into.
Your best bet for an OS for that Mac is 7.5.5, which usually means installing 7.5.3 first then running the updater to 7.5.5. You could run 7.1 instead, but a lot of useful stuff needs 7.5+.
Another thing to note is that the SE/30 is not actually "32-bit clean", which is why 7.6 won't run on it. While it can run in 32-bit addressing mode, it needs some special software to do it properly, because the ROM still contains functions that rely on 24-bit addressing mode. While it's possible that your replacement ROM may have patched these routines, the model identifier still tells the OS that it's a machine that isn't supported by that version.
Also, OS 8 and 8.1 require at least an '040 processor without jumping through some hoops, which also require a truly 32-bit clean Mac like the IIci.
Just goes to show that Apple's "recent" history of locking out older mac models has been going on for technical reasons since the 90's. Even earlier, now that I think about it, as the original 128k mac can't run certain versions of system 6 because of the memory requirements.
I've had good luck with Verbatim CD-Rs burned around 4-8x with all kinds of vintage CD-ROM drives.
Oh god yes. Just came from part one with that beautiful CD-ROM drive to the opening of this video. I love this.
Heath Herrig: By “That beautiful CD-ROM drive”, will take it you ironically mean “That *hideous* CD-ROM drive”. 😲😬😀
awesome, taking place just yesterday, tuned in at the right time
I say leave the JAZ drive as the main swappable disk. I think thats the main attraction of this old unit. Hook up the external scsi JAZ drive to your epic desktop G3 so you can swap files between them. [i love using old media] Put the SD/SCSI board in there and file a slot in one of the grooves in the front panel to access the SD card. Try using a sub-1gb SD card and booting off that maybe?
The CD read errors may be because it needs the iso9660 CD driver. or the CD toolkit drivers for non-apple cd drives.
Jaz drives rule!
Can’t wait to see this beast connected to the internet
that tape kinda looks like a dry corn husk
I think you found the original hackintosh!
🤣
dat tape tho! crazy how it just disintegrates after time. looking forward to the rest of the series. subbed. go get em!!!
"dat tape" ? DAT tapes are a real thing... and not something written by people too lazy to type in an extra letter. It's hardly difficult to type "that". 🙄
my friend can probably make a custom power supply and cables for this
It was for 'music production'...so what about a 1/4" mono output. Can plug it into an amp, and much better than that random speaker wire dangling out the back, or all those speakers glued to where there werent any grills.
The external jazzdisc runs at parallel-port-scsi emulation the internal one runs at full-scsi speeds and should be faster. The blue-painted frontbezel should fit the new cd-drive if you remove it's front-bezel.
I thought the external Jaz drive was true SCSI. Unfortunately, it looks like the new CD drive uses a different style of faceplate. They're not universal like laptop ones.
@@eDoc2020 Apply a little heat to an X-acto blade and melt the glue holding the faceplate on.
Monchi Abbad considering i do have an external jaz disk mounted in a PowerMacG4 it is definitely SCSI inside the external box.
I don’t even think Jaz drive even existed with parallel. ZIP did. Zip exist one parallel, IDE and USB form. I’m pretty sure JAZ are only SCSI.
@@godzil42 all I've ever encountered were scsi Jaz drives
I think you will find that the external Jaz drive has either high-density 50-pin SCSI connectors or 25-pin SCSI connectors, like the back of the Mac itself. Centronics parallel port weirdness was mainly a PC thing, for those who couldn’t be bothered to add a SCSI card…
There are extensions from Toast and FWB that will allow previously unsupported SCSI CD roms (at least some of them) to work with your SE. I suspect that your Teac and others are just not recognized completely. The support list can usually be found in the documentation for the extension. I'll see if I can find a link for you.
macintoshgarden.org/apps/fwb-cd-rom-toolkit-159
Thanks Scott!
This is a series? My evening is already filled.
Always disconnect the electron gun PCB before working on a compact Mac internal, it is really easy to break the tube by knocking it...
I would create backups of all the disks from the mac. who knows how much longer those will last, considering how old they are.
plus, they could hold clues to finding more about who owned it.
This is my favorite series you’ve done
Also- *that’s* how you pronounce Teac!?
Thanks man! And I don't know lol
In my opinion you are the best retro tech TH-camr :)
I know you're not going to do it but you should use some tape to secure some things as a tribute to how fucking amazing this build is. 😂
I don't know how well two separate power supplies would play together (presumably fine as long as you common the ground?), but they do make micro computer power supplies that could easily fit in the spare space to power one or two of the drives.
Im so keen to see the power supply be gutted and upgraded. Love this series
Have you considered removing all the screws and other mounting hardware and just using tape for everything? I feel like that would be the fulfillment of the original vision. Also, tape the ram down for an extra secure connection.
The 8 Bit Guy had issues getting an SD to SCSI adaptor working on a Mac SE, too. Perhaps you could drop him a message if you're still stuck?
Great idea! Spoiler though, it did wind up working!
I wouldn’t trust 8 bit guy with anything anymore.
Id love to get a directors edition performa 5500 since its in a lovely black and I would definitely upgrade it
From experience, you'd have better luck with System 7.1 on this older 68k Mac.
3:00 "Because how long do SCSI hard drives last really last?" - Seemingly, more than 30 years!
My brain keeps asking if you discharged that crt...
OK this is my introduction to your channel. For this, I'm subscribing. I'm the original Mac hater, but this one has some balls. It must have been a furnace in that case to turn that reinforced packing tape to dust! This is shade tree "engineering" at its finest. Only a Mac would force people into desperate maneuvers like this! :)
I remember using SCSI, back in the day, on my old Acorn A3010. It was one of the old computing dark arts to get it to work, along with the wired networking that used coaxial cable with BNC connectors. I don't miss messing about with dip switches and termination settings.
Nice macintosh
You should consider going with glossy black spray paint to really finish the modern look that the previous owner was going for.
Yeah I'm torn between going glossy or flat black. I've heard satin black looks nice on computers.
@@ActionRetro Satin black, like the NeXT cube
Since the front is already quite gutted, why not use one of the grooves on the left to fit an SD port?
i'd love to see a 3d printed bracket for everything crammed inside of their.
I'm leaning more towards some creative sheet metal work. 3D printed stuff needs to be fairly thick in order to be strong and space is clearly at a premium in here.
Obviously the power supply needs repairs too if the guts are replaced with another bare PCB like the existing one. Looks like the original Dr. Frankenstein took a jigsaw to the case!
Excellent!! In like the idea of the SCSI -SD card replacing the existing hard drive, who knows how long that HD would still run, even if you got it working. I hope you can get the internal JAZ drive working, the whole idea of the is really cool. And, hey, what is up with your subscriber count? Last I saw you were working towards 500! Really cool, and I guess I can now always say "I knew him when!" ;-)
Haha I have no idea! People seem to really identify with this machine I think!
Action Retro Maybe, but run with it, congratulations!
@@brokenelectronics3665 Thank you!
That CD rom going nuts is the funniest part.
Well, at least progress is being made!
Just so you know, there pretty much is no CD-ROM compatible with the Macintosh that is faster than a Jaz drive. In fact, the Jaz drive is faster than most SCSI hard drives that I've used. I have several Jaz drives for testing and troubleshooting my vintage Macs and it is invariably quite a bit faster than any drive I've used. Even upto a Power Macintosh, the Jaz still beats the internal stock drives.
Thanks, that's really good to know!
Glad you got the Noctua fan upgrade working and found a working CD-Rom drive. Does the SCSI to SD have active SCSI termination? I don't miss dealing with that...
Haha oh yeah, it handles the termination.
Great videos, use the floppy EMU to install 7.5.3. USE FLAT Black, not glossy. I restored a SE/30 that had a bad case...used "concrete colored paint" with a saved Apple logo...looks great now.
Also, instead of stacking SD2SCSI on top of the Jaz drive, reverse and stick the SD Card out the back in the slot if not using the network/video bus card.
try to resuse the original cd rom face plate! love the blue
You could just paint the new one and idk if its Compatible
I Glad Im Not The Only One That Encounters Problems. Yes A Black Paint Job Will Look Great And Maybe Some Custom Decals AS Well
i wonder if a hot knife or X-acto blade adapter for a soldering iron could be used to heat up or dissolve the glue holding the CD-rom faceplate on the case? It may be slow going to keep the heat down and not damage the case, however I think the combination of a bit of focused heat and a sharp blade could melt or cook off the glue.
this guy deserves to be "restored" to its modded state, restoring the paint and fixing the broken plastics, maybe even replace the discdrive w/ a black one and make it appear like a NEXT
the tape is old fiberglass tape it yellows overtime & drys out
I was given a box full of tape rolls that were being thrown out because they were partially dried up. Since they were free I tried to rejuvenate them by applying steam to them. It helped a little, but otherwise the tape was too far gone.
I know that bad caps can cause issues with SCSI. I was thinking that was the issue with CD-ROMs until the last drive worked, that or the ROM disk does not have drivers for the other drives. A SCSI fault could still be an issue with the SCSI2SD, but I've also read that those need to be formatted just so to work. Lido is the popular drive setup utility for this. Of note, the highest supported OS for an SE/30 is 7.5.5, which is why 7.6.1 refused to install. There are apparently ways to get 7.6.1 and even 8/8.0 running on it but they need some modification.
The way you describe that tape is how I would describe amazon's tape if you let it sit out for years.
"The Tape Is Dusty?!?!" ...It's old fiberglass tape, that the glue has dried out on.
12QWASZXQWERTYUIOP bits of broken fiberglass from cutting it up is my guess
Please back up that hard drive and cd!
The TEAC drive should work if you had the CD-ROM extension installed. A thing I found back when I mucked around with old Macs is that special drivers for removable storage (other than CD-ROM) were not required as long as a Mac formatted disc was inserted into each removable drive at boot. The system would load the driver off the disc and use it for other discs in the drive.
One caveat, it's best to initialize all the removable disks of all types with the same software. If you mixed it up like using SCSI Director on a SyQuest, FWB Hard Disk Toolkit on a Bernoulli, and Apple's own on Zip 100, it could cause conflicts and crashes. I settled on using HDT on everything, especially because it had software RAID support. I had to RAID0 stripe four hard drives across both SCSI buses in a 110Mhz Radius Mac clone to get fast enough write speed for Media 100 video capture at 150K per frame.
For CD-ROM there's FWB CD-ROM Toolkit. Where you can snag a copy is in the downloads on Low End Mac for one of the PowerPC clones. I forget which clone but one of the downloads has a full version of FWB CDT that includes disc changer support.
Lastly, every classic Mac should be running RAM Charger to replace Apple's terrible memory management. And it should also be running Connectix RAM Doubler, but only using the virtual memory function, which is far better than how Apple did it. The RAM compression was BS anyway. Apple should have licensed technology from both of those, but instead they kept making changes with every new System and MacOS release to repeatedly break RAM Charger compatibility. With the 9.1 update, RAM Charger's essential memory management works perfectly but some of the not-necessary accessory functions were once again broken by Apple. Apparently since Jump Development didn't push out yet another update, Apple didn't pursue further retaliation for being shown up. RAM Charger's management also works in 9.2.x.
You've heard of Frankenstein's Monster. Now get ready for : Frankenstein's Computer.
Try booting from the external jazz drive again
I kinda like the blue CD Drive front. Why not keep it?
It fits well with the Keyboard Mouse combo of this Mac AND manages to "break up" the black of the case. Pure Black may look to "professional" for this mod.
Did you ever check what the original rom stick was from? It could of been from a Macintosh IIsi or IIfx to get past the 8mb ram limit the SE/30 had
Ah yeah, looks to be out of a IIsi
@@ActionRetro Ah nice!
I quite like the blue of the faceplate on the disc drive. Why not keep it in there or paint the new one the same colour?
Seeing this black computer kind of reminds me of the old Amstrad computers in the UK. Which were matte black or dark grey.
Man, great series so far! Feels like the thing gave me rabies through my screen though! It really looks like it needs a good deep clean.
🤣🤣🤣
I've seen that reinforced tape before - does it smell? The stuff I remember had a pretty nasty chemical smell to it. Can't really remember where I've seen it but I think both on cardboard boxes and inside computers, as part of factory cable management.
damn that teac has a stupid fast tray load
I saw you used at 19:28 some crimped splicing sleeves. The Noctua fans come with these little clear and orange 3M snap splicers that I swear by, they work extremely well and are much easier to deal with in my experience, in case you ever do this again.
As far as I remember many old macs refused to boot from hard drives not manufactured explicitly for apple (these had a tiny apple logo on the sticker).
the person who owned this mac must be on another plane of existance to come up with these changes
The system folder from the CD would probably work with the original rom card. I'd guess it's probably System 7.1 vintage without the extensions necessary for a 32-bit clean rom.