70mm stem is fine as long as it’s comfortable. Best to get experienced eye on your current riding position to see if there are any obvious issues, but keep in mind as you ride more, your position will also likely change, so don’t be afraid of changing setup - especially now days with “integrated everything” and one piece bar and stems, there aren’t THAT many things you can adjust. Note: Some smaller sized gravel bikes default build comes with 70mm or 80mm stems. So you should be ok with 70mm.
Actually, moving the saddle forward changed his torso angle - comparing before and after still photos taken from the video, his torso angle changed to more upright and thus brings his center more towards the back, resulting in lighter weight on the hands. Moving the saddle is not an isolated variable. Please continue to watch the video. :)
@@MazingerZX If you want to bring the center of the mass towards the back you need to change the angle of shoulder/arms. You do that with shortening a stem. (or get a bike correct size, 1 or 2 smaller). Putting saddle forward makes it even worse as theres more weight on the handlebars. Its simple simple physics. Do not watch the video, he has no idea what he is doing. Look at the saddle angle before he even tries it the first time at negative 10 degrees. Like every normal human can see thats not ridable and he is called bike fitter like what.
@@lukaluka400 Moving the saddle forward essentially moved his center of mass forward. This is equivalent of making his shoulder/arm closer to his center of mass. This also assumes it doesn't mess up his pedaling form - which the fitter seems to be fully aware of and is working without having to buy new bike parts as higher priority (which could be discussed in advance). The options you are suggesting are not the only way to address the issue - and any could be used. The final fit obviously works for the video creator and shows "there is more than one way to skin a cat" (as you've listed). Everyone has different saddle preference, please do not disparage another person's setup - especially when the final result works for the specific rider. For example, I ride with -8 degrees (nose down) and find it comfy as there are many climbs and rolling terrain in my typical cycling routes.
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Than you for video... For recreation rider what stem is too short? 70mm ok?
70mm stem is fine as long as it’s comfortable. Best to get experienced eye on your current riding position to see if there are any obvious issues, but keep in mind as you ride more, your position will also likely change, so don’t be afraid of changing setup - especially now days with “integrated everything” and one piece bar and stems, there aren’t THAT many things you can adjust. Note: Some smaller sized gravel bikes default build comes with 70mm or 80mm stems. So you should be ok with 70mm.
thank you sir
Im sorry, but placing sadle forward places more weight on handlebars as the center of mass moves forward.
Correct 😂 stopped watching after this
Actually, moving the saddle forward changed his torso angle - comparing before and after still photos taken from the video, his torso angle changed to more upright and thus brings his center more towards the back, resulting in lighter weight on the hands. Moving the saddle is not an isolated variable. Please continue to watch the video. :)
@@MazingerZX If you want to bring the center of the mass towards the back you need to change the angle of shoulder/arms. You do that with shortening a stem. (or get a bike correct size, 1 or 2 smaller). Putting saddle forward makes it even worse as theres more weight on the handlebars. Its simple simple physics.
Do not watch the video, he has no idea what he is doing.
Look at the saddle angle before he even tries it the first time at negative 10 degrees. Like every normal human can see thats not ridable and he is called bike fitter like what.
@@lukaluka400 Moving the saddle forward essentially moved his center of mass forward. This is equivalent of making his shoulder/arm closer to his center of mass. This also assumes it doesn't mess up his pedaling form - which the fitter seems to be fully aware of and is working without having to buy new bike parts as higher priority (which could be discussed in advance). The options you are suggesting are not the only way to address the issue - and any could be used. The final fit obviously works for the video creator and shows "there is more than one way to skin a cat" (as you've listed). Everyone has different saddle preference, please do not disparage another person's setup - especially when the final result works for the specific rider. For example, I ride with -8 degrees (nose down) and find it comfy as there are many climbs and rolling terrain in my typical cycling routes.
The saddle 😅😅 don't tell me you rode it like that....
Hahaha definitely not like that, we remove some rear light mount on the rail and we forgotten to tilt back to the original position 🤣
@@WiserBiker ah ☺️