Thanks for the review! I print almost exclusively in PETG on a larger format printer (CR-10 Smart Pro) and the limiting factor is an enclosure. People don’t want to admit it, but PETG gets super warpy and can have surface issues, especially with overhangs near the base of the print. If you want to use these large format printers for anything but PLA, they need to be in an enclosure, and given the volume of these printers that makes them very impractical. I can only use about 200x200 of the bed without encountering warping issue in PETG without an enclosure. Oh, and I dry even brand new PETG for 24hrs sometimes before I print with it. And end up re drying it after it’s been out for more than a day or two. I switched to a .6 microswiss steel nozzle on it and found it to be an acceptable compromise in quality and speed. Edit: oh and I’ve been buying cheap(er) milled carbon reinforced PETG and it’s been 👌👌👌 for automotive applications :)
One thing I don't see mentioned enough is that the slight polygon on the curves seems to be how the models are output from fusion (or solidworks - I've noticed this on both) and not necessarily the slicer itself. Can get even rounder curves by changing the export settings in fusion360. Surprisingly, you have to go to File - 3d print (instead of export). Under output (at the bottom), uncheck The "Send to 3d printer" because we're just making a model. Change the "Refinement" from its default of medium to "Custom". I like to check the preview box to actually see the geometry and then play around with the sliders. Usually ups the resolution by 4-5x the amount of triangles. There are youtube videos on this that will visually explain it. Really helped me with some concentrically fitting circular parts on the resin printer. It will also make slower computers cry a little bit on complex models. I've only dealt with resin since learning this, so unknown to me how this will affect extrusion slicing.
I did notice it but to honest it’s probably worthy of another video… Obviously more and smaller facets on the stl will help with this, but I think the best solution is to use a slicer that can handle .step files, then the curve will be exactly that… I’m thinking of moving over to the BambuStudio fork for everything for that reason…. I may share my results 👍
I just ordered a Neptune 3 Max. I always wanted to try 3D printing motorcycle plastics like side covers for classic bikes, as they're always getting lost/damaged.
Make sure to assemble it in the room your going to use it in unless you plan on cutting out a doorframe! :P My 300 is big enough! Have fun with it, I love mine.
Ive run into the cable problem on other printers and used retractable ID card chains that way when you get to the super large end or top of the printer you dont run into other issues. As for being slow, speed is achievable but for the size and speed youre going to want a core xy or similar machine. For the price point of the elegoo though you cant really best them for what they are.
My big printers are all running either 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzles. But they are also corexy ratrigs and vorons tuned to run 24/7 at well over 350mm/s. 3d printing is so cool
Dammit Dave!! I just ordered the Bambu P1S and was deadlocked between that, this, and the CR-10 Max lol 😂😭😭 maybe I'll get it in the future when I good amount of 3D printing under my belt haha. Heard a lot of good things about this big boy.
Esun petg sucks, lots of moisture pops/snaps out of the package and it's never wound well on the spool. I've had no issues with polymaker and it's always perfectly wound on the spool. You definitely need to dry it even straight from the sealed bag. I've printed pretty much exclusively with petg on my previous CR6-SE and I've found it prints best at slightly higher temps, 80c bed, 245c nozzle, and 25-50% cooling. Then just calibrate the e-steps and retract settings and you should be getting great results.
How long does it take to tell the people the build volume? I didn't even bother finishing the video. He kept saying it's huge but never giving the actual build volume size!
Interesting size for sure, 260 nozzle seems low if you do car part stuff though, its barely ASA levels, the new one seems to solve that though, and i guess this can be uppgraded. Btw did you ever try that PCCF i sent?
Hi Cedric… to be honest, that scared the life out of me on my Ender3, but I’m gonna run it thought the X1C which should eat it up…. Just need the right application 👍 260 is plenty for cosplay etc, anything that needs above that also likely needs an enclosure, which for this printer would need to be a large wardrobe 😂
@@MakingforMotorsport would be great to have a large one to be able to print air boxes and stuff like that. Im just afraid it+enclosure will fill up a quarter of the few square meters i have in the garage 😂
I've been using the Neptune 3 Max to design and test car parts for several months now. It has not let me down yet!
Good man! Nice to hear it’s working out for you…
Thanks for the review! I print almost exclusively in PETG on a larger format printer (CR-10 Smart Pro) and the limiting factor is an enclosure. People don’t want to admit it, but PETG gets super warpy and can have surface issues, especially with overhangs near the base of the print. If you want to use these large format printers for anything but PLA, they need to be in an enclosure, and given the volume of these printers that makes them very impractical. I can only use about 200x200 of the bed without encountering warping issue in PETG without an enclosure.
Oh, and I dry even brand new PETG for 24hrs sometimes before I print with it. And end up re drying it after it’s been out for more than a day or two.
I switched to a .6 microswiss steel nozzle on it and found it to be an acceptable compromise in quality and speed.
Edit: oh and I’ve been buying cheap(er) milled carbon reinforced PETG and it’s been 👌👌👌 for automotive applications :)
what temp do you keep your enclosure to avoid warping ? And do you have print fan cooling on?
One thing I don't see mentioned enough is that the slight polygon on the curves seems to be how the models are output from fusion (or solidworks - I've noticed this on both) and not necessarily the slicer itself. Can get even rounder curves by changing the export settings in fusion360. Surprisingly, you have to go to File - 3d print (instead of export). Under output (at the bottom), uncheck The "Send to 3d printer" because we're just making a model. Change the "Refinement" from its default of medium to "Custom". I like to check the preview box to actually see the geometry and then play around with the sliders. Usually ups the resolution by 4-5x the amount of triangles. There are youtube videos on this that will visually explain it.
Really helped me with some concentrically fitting circular parts on the resin printer. It will also make slower computers cry a little bit on complex models. I've only dealt with resin since learning this, so unknown to me how this will affect extrusion slicing.
I did notice it but to honest it’s probably worthy of another video…
Obviously more and smaller facets on the stl will help with this, but I think the best solution is to use a slicer that can handle .step files, then the curve will be exactly that…
I’m thinking of moving over to the BambuStudio fork for everything for that reason…. I may share my results 👍
I just ordered a Neptune 3 Max. I always wanted to try 3D printing motorcycle plastics like side covers for classic bikes, as they're always getting lost/damaged.
Awesome review… I just picked up a Neptune 3 max. Can’t wait to get started
I just pulled 0:28 the trigger on a Ratrig 500x500. So excited for it to show up and start printing manifolds and arches.
Make sure to assemble it in the room your going to use it in unless you plan on cutting out a doorframe! :P
My 300 is big enough! Have fun with it, I love mine.
Wow… now that is a big boy… it’s nice to have the option to go big… and no slow speed downside worth that bad boy…
Yeah. If you hear some high pitched whining coming from far to the West, that'll be me squealing with joy. You don't have tinnitus.
@@dubCanuck1 Haha, funny thing is I do. :)
just picked up a 4 max because of your review. Thanks for the suggestion, very excited to get my fenders printed! 😁
Ive run into the cable problem on other printers and used retractable ID card chains that way when you get to the super large end or top of the printer you dont run into other issues. As for being slow, speed is achievable but for the size and speed youre going to want a core xy or similar machine. For the price point of the elegoo though you cant really best them for what they are.
My big printers are all running either 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzles. But they are also corexy ratrigs and vorons tuned to run 24/7 at well over 350mm/s. 3d printing is so cool
I had planned a big CHT nozzle for this but that and the Klipper upgrade on the 4 may turn my head… those Vorons sound like the real deal…
Honestly I was really impressed with Elegoo on this machine and also working with them. The Neptune range would be my go to recommendation now….
I got a Neptune 4 Max coming! :D Also OrangeStorm Giga in preorder! :O
What 3D scanner did you use on the video ?
Dammit Dave!! I just ordered the Bambu P1S and was deadlocked between that, this, and the CR-10 Max lol 😂😭😭 maybe I'll get it in the future when I good amount of 3D printing under my belt haha. Heard a lot of good things about this big boy.
I would have made the fender skirts with a carbon ABS. Factory bumpers are ABS. Carbon for the benefits.
He’s alive!
Just about mate! Already started the next video
i just took a retractable lanyard and hung it from the spool holder to hold up the power cable from the print bed
That occurred to me after… but it would also mean crossing Big Jeff B’s palm with silver but this one was freeeeeeeeeeee! 👍
When it prints, is the output clean or does it emit smoke in the process? Is it suitable for a closed room?
Esun petg sucks, lots of moisture pops/snaps out of the package and it's never wound well on the spool. I've had no issues with polymaker and it's always perfectly wound on the spool. You definitely need to dry it even straight from the sealed bag. I've printed pretty much exclusively with petg on my previous CR6-SE and I've found it prints best at slightly higher temps, 80c bed, 245c nozzle, and 25-50% cooling. Then just calibrate the e-steps and retract settings and you should be getting great results.
I’ve got some more PETG, British made… gonna give a go soon…. I’m not giving up yet!
Did I mess where you mention the dimensions of the printer?
Ermmmm….. 😬😬😬😬😬🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Worst review ever!
(420x420x500mm btw)
@@MakingforMotorsport haha thanks!
Good old school 3:46 review for a good old school printer.
Yew!!! Loving it.
Cheers Hobo… working on the next one already!
How long does it take to tell the people the build volume? I didn't even bother finishing the video. He kept saying it's huge but never giving the actual build volume size!
That printer is mad
Just what do you plan to print with it? A whole car???
I'm been using an ender 3 army to print multiple pieces at same time, because in my country is very difficult buy a bamboolab or a giant printer... 😢
Its a sensible approach, just takes abit longer and touching up
low key looking for a beer sponsor i c
Low key???? I thought I was being obvious…. Gonna need to up the ante! 😂
Interesting size for sure, 260 nozzle seems low if you do car part stuff though, its barely ASA levels, the new one seems to solve that though, and i guess this can be uppgraded. Btw did you ever try that PCCF i sent?
Hi Cedric… to be honest, that scared the life out of me on my Ender3, but I’m gonna run it thought the X1C which should eat it up…. Just need the right application 👍
260 is plenty for cosplay etc, anything that needs above that also likely needs an enclosure, which for this printer would need to be a large wardrobe 😂
@@MakingforMotorsport would be great to have a large one to be able to print air boxes and stuff like that. Im just afraid it+enclosure will fill up a quarter of the few square meters i have in the garage 😂
Damn they don't ship to NZ...
Hah, try a Vcore3 and you will never use this bed slinger again!
I thought that after getting my X1C… but I quite enjoyed using this particular bed slinger
he's tool is massive. how us, normal guys, are supposed to compete with THAT monstrosity! 🤨
It’s a bit of a beast!