FINALLY - YES! Been watching way too many TH-cam Boobs talk about things they don't know what they're discussing. I know this is going to lead to things getting damaged and people potentially getting hurt. THANK YOU SO MUCH for finally telling me what I need to control my 2100 board. Clear and concise. And most importantly, logically correct. I'm saving your video for further review. You're not a YT Boob.
Just received my PWM controller and have been grinning like an idiot at my smooth running treadmill motor for 20 minutes now. Figured I should be productive and tell everyone it was because of this video. Thanks!
My fingers got that stained once when I was dissolving silver nickel copper coins in nitric acid. Some of the liquid spilt down the neck of the flask and wet my fingers.. I washed them a few minutes later but too late. The thing was that the staining came on over the next few hours and stayed for more than a week! Excellent vid, thanks man.
Thanks for this video! I found an old treadmill with the MC-2100 and thought there was no way I’d ever be able to run the motor using the onboard controller. I happened to have a PWM module and it worked. Thanks man
Glad I could help, but before you put a bunch of time and effort into that board you may want to check my latest video. th-cam.com/video/yMkW2SXl_sA/w-d-xo.html
@@dazecars interesting. I wonder what failed on the board. I’ll be looking forward to your video on the soft start. I’m not sure what I’ll be using the motor for. My first test run on the motor was with a variac and a bridge rectifier and capacitor. Thanks for the reply.
I saw your videos on setting up a quality speed controller because I am a noob and I just assumed that I couldn’t use the supplied board without also using the treadmill display. I started watching some other videos because I was overwhelmed with the thought of sourcing the necessary parts and was glad to find this one. One tip: you might want to put a link to this video in your other videos because some of your viewers might not know this is an option!
This is the most comprehensive and well laid out video explaining how to modify treadmill controllers I have ever seen, have fitted treadmill motors to my Seig Mill and Hobbymatt lathe so this will help me to adapt the controllers I have, will be doing this tomorrow, many thanks regards Doc Cox.
@@dazecars Thank you, had a look in thre shed for my stash of treadmill control boards and found I had four MC 2100,s plus chokes and filters so will be having a go when the signal generator turns up.
Thanks for doing this nice summary of treadmill motors and controllers. I use these all the time and have a few others to add to your list. So if you don't mind I'd like to comment on these and few other things I've learned over the years. By the way I like the term "safe start" better "soft start". (there are "soft starts" available for large industrial motors). Safe start makes sure a tread mill does start at a high speed when you get on it, thus the term safe start. It is an inconvenience when using these on our home shop machines, but there are ways around it. As you pointed out the benefit of a DC motor is the ability to easily adjust the speed. Equally important however is that a DC can produce its full torque throughout the speed range. The current going thru the motor is proportional to the torque it is producing. The DC voltage applied to the motor determines its speed. So the controller simply controls the voltage based on the speed setting (potentiometer or PWM) and the load on the motor determines how much current it will draw from the controller. Most controllers will limit the amount of current it will provide and when it reaches that point it will start to decrease the voltage to keep things from overloading. The motors sometimes have protection built into them also. As you showed in your video the blue wires coming out of the motor is a thermal overload (not a fuse) and it will open the circuit (just like the on-switch) if the motor gets too hot. I found an MC-20 in a small low end treadmill and used it on a small bench top drill press along with the 1HP motor that was in the treadmill. I could not find much info on the MC-20 so I was unable to disable the safe start but I just turn the pot down to zero each time I start and then set it to the desired speed. I've used the MC-60 on my vintage Craftsman bandsaw to slow the speed so I could cut metal (using a metal cutting blade). It works very well. You can easily defeat the safe start by snipping one lead on R27. Mine is an MC-60 rev H. I've also used the MC-60 on my Atlas/Craftsman lathe. I've documented this on the Craftsman Lathe Forum if you are interested. I have an actual treadmill (don't use it much anymore) that has an MC-80. From what I can tell its very similar to the MC-60. I don't think my wife will ever let me dismantle it..... I do have an MC-2000 on the shelf that I plan to use on a belt sander some day. Lastly I'm using an MC-2100 on a small CNC mill I'm building. My research led me to believe the PWM period needed to be 50 HZ, not 20. When I get time I may change that to 20HZ and see what happens. I'm using an Arduino to the read the value of potentiometer and generate the PWM signal to the MC-2100. You also need to limit the PWM pulse width to 85%. The nice thing about using an Arduino is you can defeat the safe start in software by controlling the PWM output according to your needs. Thanks for letting me hack your thread. I hope others will learn how easy it is to use these controllers in their home shops. JD
Thanks for the comment and I am glad you liked the video. Defeating the "soft start" 😁 on the MC-20 should be easy. I took a look at a picture of one and it is the same 3 wire potentiometer hook up as the MC-60 or MC-2000, It just may not be Labeled H W and L (high low and wipe) The important thing is that the red wire terminal should be the high which could be verified with a multimeter. To disable safe start simply wire in a normally closed momentary push button switch between the potentiometer and the red or H terminal. Then to use the tool without safe start, push the button breaking the connection and power the machine on then release the momentary switch and the motor will spin up to the preset speed without having turn the speed control all the way down and back up again. As to the 20hz V 50hz I went out to my shop and set up a 2100 board with PWM controller. Worked beautifully at 20hz but I could not get the motor to turn on at 50hz. Just an FYI
Thanks again,, you are amazing,, and you have no idea how much anxiety you have relieved me of. I'm not very clever and you make it so easy to follow,, I wish you were my neighbour 😃
Thank you! I've spent many hours of research trying to find this kind of information. It's out there but hard to find. I used an Arduino to run the MC-2100 before finding the PWM method. Excellently made video. Thank you!
Great video, thanks! I've done both an SCR controller and a MC-2100 with pwm and I love the latter; it runs very smooth and quiet. I used a a raspberry pi pico for the pwm and wired a potentiometer to the pico to make adjusting the speed nice and easy.
Really nice job man. Wish I would have had this video months ago! I have a MC2100 and getting good info on it in language I understand was nearly impossible.
The most productive informative video indeed. Just have to buy a pwm. I think one of the controller I have is the last one you flashed and moved out of the way, the complicated one you said you can' t hack. I have to look. I assume if a board doesn't show PWM somewhere, it is a no go. But I have the other two. One I just use the potentiometer and the other I believe needs pwm. Thank you so much.
@@dazecars I guess what I have is asm-mef1j-3b. Vision T9700HRT Controller # 013738-A. I wonder what that type of connector is that called, the one big one with two rows of needle pins sticking out of it that the flat white strip gets connected to and then locks in place, what each pin might be. And the other one I have is Precor pcb# 36526-203
@@alchemy1 The only solution I have for using those boards is to use the control panel that came with the treadmill. If it was me rather than using the treadmill controller I would simply go with a QUALITY SCR power supply.
Hi. Thanks for your videos! When you are discussing hooking up the 2100 with PWM, you mention putting the power through the ferrite choke. It looks like you point to the coil choke, but I do see the ferrite one sitting behind it and am assuming that is what you were pointing at. Can you just confirm that you do not use the coil choke anywhere in your circuit for the 2100 board and although it was sitting on your bench, it was not Connected to anything.
What you are referring to as a coil is also a choke. I use the doughnut choke to clean the AC and then a motor choke (transformer looking part) can be used on the DC power but with a PWM like an MC2100 it is not required like it is on an SCR setup.
If I want to keep the flywheel on my motor, do I grind/file the grooves off and get a fitting pulley? Or can I get a pulley with the same grooves to put on my harbor freight wood lathe shaft? Also what are recommended outer diameter pully sizes for bowl turning? I'm sorry if you've already answered this for someone else.
either should work. On my mill build I cut the grooves off and then fit a pulley over the top. As to pulley size I would go with the biggest ratio that still gives you desired max speed.
Hey DazeCars, I have the MC2100 board, and I thought I had salvaged all the components but I'm not sure now after watching. At 6:09 you are pointing out the peices on the bench and you point to what I thought was a transformer, but you called it the Ferrite Choke. I thought the choke was the round thing with the wires coiled around it. I also have the same PWM as your first demo' d set up, but my motor won't start. Any ideas as to where I should go from here? When I salvaged this treadmill, it worked intermitantly and I traced it to a separation in the touch screen plastic layered switching for the speed controls and incline on the consol. The motor did work before is what I am trying to get at. I double (actually quadruple) checked my wiring as per yours and it all looks good except for your Ferrite choke thingy. I was so glad I found your video as I have been struggling with this off and on for a while now, and but alas my struggle seems to continue. Cheers and thanks for posting.
There are two chokes. The AC choke is the doughnut and the DC choke is the thing you thought was a transformer (I show both a DC choke and a transformer in the video and go over the differences). They look the same but are totally different. A choke will have 2 wires and a transformer will have 4 or more. Your machine may not have come with a DC choke, not all machines have them. They are not required but your motor will run cooler and last longer if you use one. As to your problems getting the motor to spin, did you change the pmw to the correct frequency?
@@dazecars where would someone find a DC ferrite choke? My MC 2100 didn't have one and I'd like to get the best outcome possible. Any info is appreciated!
@@TurnItUpbyTravis1213 You can get the choke on eBay search "Treadmill choke" Just know that people don't know what they have and think transformers and chokes are interchangeable because they look almost the same, but they are not. To know which one is actually being listed look at the wires coming out of it. if it has 2 it is a choke if it has 4 or more it is a transformer.
really nice and didactic video but how can we reconize the pins for the pwm connection on the board; there are no signs or nummembers on the board(mc2-v3,1).
Thanks for the information on dc motor controllers, I harvested a motor and contoller from a treadmill that has a MC1650LS-2W controller. I am trying to find information on this model controller and how I can connect a potentiometer to the controller. The wires that connect to the controller are color coded black with white stripe, red,green,blue. I have 10.5v from red wire and 4.9 from green wire, they connect to the controller with only the markings of HD4. Can I use a potentiometer with this board or do I need to use a pulse generator and how do I connect them. Thanks for any help you can give.
contact me through my website. email me pictures of the board, the motor, and the data sheet ( if there was one inside your treadmill) and I will see if I can help.
I have a MC2100 from a treadmill. The plan is to retrofit my wood lathe. My question is what type of box should I be looking for to house everything? Thankful
wood shop changes things, you want it free from dust but you also want it to have cooling. I would mount it in an electrical box with venting. If you watch my ELS video you can see the type of box I mounted the electronics in.
Please do a video on the MC1618DLS There is not a video or wiring diagram on Google. Im guessing one needs a PWM controller to use it. Keep the videos coming, ive watched all yours at lease twice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
At the moment I can't because I don't have one. The videos I have done are for boards I have gotten scrapping out treadmills. With out the parts I can't try to hack them and not all are easily hackable.
Great video 👍 Is a MT05 board any use? I picked up a new treadmill with a damaged cord. Repaired the cord, but the control panel doesn’t illuminate. I’m sure it’s a issue with the wire that runs through the frame to the control panel, but I want to repurpose the motor anyway.
Was there a spec sheet under the cover? contact me through my website so you can send me pix. I need close up shots of the board especially the connections and the spec sheet if it was inside the treadmill and I will see what I can do.
@@dazecars no spec sheet unfortunately. I managed to remove the board, motor and wiring intact. I’ll take some pics and send them over. Much appreciated 👍
Thanks for taking the time to post this kind of info for the do it yourselfer. I have a ProForm 695Pi it's about 15 years old and has had little use. Recently I started using it and after about 2 weeks of using it 20 min a day at 2.3 Mph , the motor began to stop running. If I get off the belt it will go back to running at the set speed. I have lubed the belt but the motor has begun to act up even sooner now. any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.
sounds like an issue with the motor controller, but I can not say for sure. contact this guy and tell him I sent you. He specializes in treadmill repair Fitness Technology youtube channel th-cam.com/users/FitnessTech... Website fitnesspartspro.com
1st video of hundreds watched telling me exactly what needs done to get the 2100 running. I have the main console for the proform treadmill, but I need it to run for days at a certain rpm for tumbling rocks. Because of that, it looks like I’ll have to bypass the console with your suggestion. One question though, if my pwm and pulse generator doesn’t have an on off switch, can I insert one in between the motor control board and pwm?
I honestly don't know. You could put the switch between the PWM and the board on the PW signal wire, but the electronics in the board may or may not respond to it being turned on an off. You could also put said switch on the power lead to the PWM (the first option is probably better assuming it works) The one draw back to these boards is the safety featurs that are built in for use in a treadmill and having never tried it I couln't say if the board will "like" thatsignal being inturepted or not. I am not exactly sure what kind of a signal comes out of the PWM when you hit "off" and that is where the question arrises.
@@dazecars ty for your advice, now to see if this all works. Better than an interruption every 2 hours, or hearing a loud noise to find out the treadmill went from a speed of 1 to a speed of 6. That was crazy seeing 100lbs of rock spinning that fast because the treadmill course took it to 6 😂
Just a fyi if you’re interested. The pwm frequency meter I bought is identical to yours, but without the on/off switch (Drok is the brand). I had a switch ready, looking for a fail (due to the soft start is what I think you called it), and as soon as the frequency hit 20 hertz, it started running, no switch necessary. Does that sound odd to you? Made finishing up a little easier for me. Thanks again for your direction! A $13 part made it all much easier!
Day, what’s the difference between a pulse width modulator and a potentiometer? They look similar but the modulator has modes wires so I assume something else is going on with it. Thanks, loving your videos. Having to repeat watching to get every detail.
They are about as different as two electronics can be. A PWM (used to controll an MC-2100) is signal generator. It sends out electric pulses at a given rate depending on how it is setup. A PWM power supply such as the MC2100 turnes the power off an on rapidly at a given rate to reduce voltage. A potentiometer is variable resistor. It creates a resistance and that resistance can be changed.
In the realm of junked treadmills, which brands or models would you choose to tear into? There are a couple of very accommodating salvage operations nearby.
For me the answer is all of them. Any chance I have to pick up a free treadmill I take. Some times I get something with lots of parts I can use: steel, motor, control board(s). I even keep the decking from most treadmills, I have a workbench with shelving underneath and all the shelves are made from the treadmill decking boards. Other times I will get a treadmill that only the motor is usable. There are so many makes and models that I never know what I am getting until I pull the cover. Once the cover is off I know immediately what I can and can't use.
Very informative. Great video. Have you had any experience with speed sensors on these motors? The motor I have has a wheel at the opposite end to the drive shaft. Has a sensor with 3 wire plug that connects into the board. Is there any way to display the RPM?
The main function of that sensor is speed consistency. When you lode the motor it will slow down some and that sensor should help maintain consistent speeds through a range of loads. I have not played with that function. As for an rpm display I’m sure it probably could be done but not for less money than a stand alone unit like the one I installed in this video. Which board are you using? th-cam.com/video/MmRMNo9IbVU/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I have an MC-1648 board, which is [visually] very similar to the MC-2100. The connector where you attach the PWM looks to be in a similar location, but has a lot more wires. My guess is that I'd simply disconnect all but the 4 wires needed for the PWM. I've seen on forums that the MC-1648 wants a 5V signal on the blue wire and some people have added resistors to step down from 12V. Do you have any info on wiring this PWM to the MC-1648 board? Thanks so much!
How hot is that white tall rectangular component supposed to get on the MC 2100 board? Mine gets very hot. Every time I energize the board and I’ve got it wired exactly the way yours is.
Very, it’s a resistor and is used to bleed power off of other components. The energy it bleeds off is converted into heat. That is why that component is ceramic so it can handle the heat.
Daze, I tore apart a Nordic track treadmill with a board like the very last one you showed (mine is labeled me520-26). It has another panel with what looks to be two inductors, a capacitor and two components that look like filter chokes wired in series? I'd love to salvage them if they are chokes but the actual windings are hidden behind plastic. Pricing this part on Amazon it runs $450 so I'd hate to tear it apart to find out they are transformers. Curious if you've you've run into these before?
Hello,I have a MC2100WA Motor Control Board on a Pro-form Treadmill when I plug it in the red light on the bottom right side comes on and the Treadmill will not kick on I replaced the speed control wire it worked a couple of times then it did the same thing a solid red light and nothing works on the console so what do I need to do when the red light stays on and it doesn't work. Thank You Steve
Hi I have a treadmill that won’t stay on it’s got the MC-2100 REV B board on it! The power light on the board is lit and when I press the on switch the motor briefly comes on but then shuts off and the power light goes off too! then the power light cycles back on and repeats the same problem again & again! Is there a component that I should check for this problem? Also the white ceramic block labeled 7W 3K3J FY gets very hot is this normal? Thanks for your emmediate response! E. Rod.
@@jaspermcconnell6417 My website doesn't direct your computer to open outlook it just provides an address and your computer opens that address in what ever platform the settings in your computer direct it to. In your case the computer settings are for outlook.
Great video man. I learned alot. I have a treadmill with with a 3.8hp motor and mc-2100ls-30rev controller. That is what is labeled on the board. The tag says mc2100lts-30. I am going to convert it into a lamb walker and have eliminated the large display and all that. I am going to use the same pwm with the dial you used. Can't seem to find which motor choke I need though. Any advise? Also is this motor reversible? Thinking about putting in a 3 position 6 pole switch to be able to run it both directions. Thanks again man. Great video!
You can get the choke on eBay search "Treadmill choke" Just know that people don't know what they have and think transformers and chokes are interchangeable because they look almost the same, but they are not. To know which one is actually being listed look at the wires coming out of it. if it has 2 it is a choke if it has 4 or more it is a transformer. Most of theses motors are reversible but you need to test it first by hand spinning it backwards. If it feels about the same forwards and backward then yes it is reversible simply by switching polarity. Keep in mind the choke needs to go between the power supply and the switch so that it is always on the positive wire and putting it after your direction switch would only put it on the positive wire in one direction.
Nice video, I used it to shop for a better controller than an SCR set up. I went with a used MC-2000 from Ebay. The wiring is pretty straight forward but when powering it up only the 15V and SPD SIG Leds light up. Rotating the pot (200K) does nothing to the motor but the SPD SIG Led does dim. I know the motor (2.44 HP) is good as I had it set up with an SCR controller at first but it couldn't keep up with the load I was putting it under. I'm using it for a woodworking lathe. With the SCR it would repeatedly pulse between full on and off. Did I get a bricked controller or am I missing something else here? Thanks Dude!
Couple things, first is sounds like you have a cheep SCR. I use am currently using SCR controllers to power a large motor on my metal lathe, a medium motor on my metal mill, and a medium motor on my band saw. I have tried lots of different SCR units and the cheep ones are horrible in fact I have only found one good one, but that good one IMHO is better than any controller that comes in the treadmill as long as you use an AC choke and a DC choke to clean power spikes. There is nothing wrong with the PWM boards that come in treadmills and they can be a fantastic option. The reason I like SCR better is they are easy to use, very customizable, more robust than a PWM and produce way less heat. SCR voltage controllers have a bad reputation because people buy the cheapest one they can and then they don’t use chokes to clean high and low end power spikes. This results in pore performance, rough starts, and reduced Motor life, but all those things are avoidable. My favorite part about SCR is you can customize it to your application. My band saw had a max RPM from the factory that was quite a bit slower than the treadmill motor I put on it. Had I just put the treadmill motor on band saw, there was a chance the speed adjust could have been turned up too much which could have been disastrous and dangerous. By putting limiting resister in series with my potentiometer, my max speed is the max speed of the original motor. That is much harder to do with the PWM at least with the ones that come in treadmills. Second how do you have yore treadmill motor geared to your lathe. HP means almost nothing (I just did a video on this) What is the Max RPM rating listed on your motor, and is your 2.44HP continuous or peek? Your motor may not be up to the task with out some pulley reduction. Most treadmill motors are lower torque and higher RPM (which gives them a higher HP number because (torque X RPM)/5252 = HP. So changing your pulley configuration could be the solution. As to your MC-2000 controller it sounds like the board you purchased is not functioning properly. The only thing I can think for you to check is the soft start, make sure you turn the knob all the way down and then back up again. Keep in mind that not all potentiometers are configured the same way and the H and L terminals may be reversed. If that is the case turning the nob clockwise would slow it down and counterclockwise would speed it up. I hope that helps, let me know if I can be of further assistance.
@@dazecars You video on upgrading to a better controller influenced my decision to move away from the cheap SCR controller, thats when I got the 2000 controller. AC power in to the correct inputs- check, DC power out to the motor and correct polarity- check, potentiometer wired correctly- probably check, there are no labels on the pot. I tried rotating from both ends of pot limits, turning off the power for each try just to see how it reacted. Turning the pot clockwise the SPD SIG led dims out, when turning the pot CCW it doesn't affect the SPD SIG, it stays out throughout the whole rotation. I watched your video for determining torque on a motor and understand what you are saying. The specs on the motor I'm working on are not complete, it's rated at 2.44 Hp (no continuous HP listed) with a speed of 3800 rpm so it has 3.4 ft/lb of torque and it's set up with a 4 step pulley on both the motor and lathe.
@@vectionnoitcev2836 If there is no “max HP rating” The 2.44 is continuous. That should be plenty of motor and the gear ratio should make it even better. Sounds like the SCR you ditched was a cheap one and that the board you replaced it with is bad. A potentiometer is never labeled and the only way to tell what you have is to put a meter on it and check the resistance. The middle terminal is always W. By trying it both directions you eliminated the potentiometer as the problem. I am sorry that you inferred from my video that an MC-2000 or MC-2100 is better than a GOOD SCR. What I said in my video was an SCR was better than the MC-2 and MC-60 and when you get an MC-2000 or a MC-2100 "you have options" As far as power production a good quality SCR and an MC-2100 will preform about the same. It just depends on what you are doing, how you want to control it and if you need to limit max speed.
@@dazecars Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I've got two machines I'm using the treadmill motors the other being a 2 x 72 belt sander. That one also I changed from the cheap SCR to the one you designed, so far it's doing much better but still has a tendency to stutter when running at higher speeds. I'm attributing that to worn brushes and a dirty commutator. Even though it seems to be a common motor I'm having a hard time finding brushes for it...
Hello. I enjoy your stuff a lot. I have a SS 90 control board from a True 500 treadmill. I assume I will need a PWM but not sure which connections from the board to use and/or where to connect on the PWM. Any suggestions? Thanks much.
@@dazecars Thank you for your response. The original control board is really beefy so it would be great to utilize it, but I will probably just go the SCR route. Thanks!
Hello. I just picked a 2100 board, without the transformer that powers the logic side of things. Can you tell me what voltage yours outputs on the low voltage side? Thanks for the great rundown!
Daze. I have a Lower Motor Control Board Controller 8130201 MEG4LF-1E. Have you had any experience modifying this board for use on any DIY projects? I have all the components and wiring off the treadmill with all wiring. Any help on the proper wiring to accommodate a PWM signal generator would be appreciated. thanks
Good morning, I have a problem with my treadmill Proform 755 that has an MC-2100B controller card, the problem is that when I give it the order to start, the maximum speed goes and I have to stop the treadmill. What could be the problem if you can't control the speed? It only goes at maximum speed, it is impossible to use. The failure started when I moved it from one room to another, opened the treadmill and found the card full of dust and dirt.
Assuming it is not something in the console control panel (which is a possible cause) It is likely the the transistor on the heatsink next to the rectifier. This transistor is the smallest part on the heat sink second from the right. Sometimes when this part fails it allows full power with no switching. Often times when this part goes bad it damages the MOSFET (part all the way to the left on the heat sink) so you should always replace them both at the same time.
I got a reebok treadmill it has a MC70 controller board and no choke but looks like it can directly mount to a potentiometer, but not sure what size? How do i know what size? Is this controller any good it is 20 years old but worked great in the treadmill. looks like on the board I can adjust torque and top speed?
based on other boards that use a potentiometer a 5K is probably about right but a 2K on some boards is a little better I would get both and try it. Its a good board and will get it done just make sure to use the choke.
Do you have any videos on the more complex board (or one similar to it) you showed at the end? I have one collecting dust in my shop, and I'd like to try and use it instead of just tossing it.
@@dazecars oh. Well, thanks for the time to respond on a year old video. The board I have has QQ-2061 listed as the model number if you have any leads on something like that. I've come up with nothing so far in my searches.
It will be written on the board somewhere or there will be a sticker. If it doesn't look anything like any of the boards I sho it's likely not easily hackable.
Dave love all your videos. Can you help me locate the wiring diagram for an Aerobics pro plus board # 9501001? Have the PWM but not sure which wire is the signal wire and which supplies voltage . Board seems to work properly but obviously need the correct wiring to get the motor to spin. Seems to me it is very close to the MC-2100 board.
contact me through my website and send pix. I will see what I can do but no promises. Also look at the control panel board if you still have it. Some times the board in the control panel is labeled and you can trace the wires back.
Daze, if my 2100 didn’t come with the transformer and has not place to plug one in - does that mean it runs ok without one? I’m speaking of the one I sent you a diagram of the other day. Thanks
I have seen three kinds of 2100. one like in my video with an external transformer, one with a large transformer soldered directly to the board and one with a small transformer soldiered directly to the board. the transformer is required to power the PWM signal generator.
Great video, thabk you for posting great info. The one problem i find and getbpretty frustrated with is where the hell do i find these ac and dc chokes lol. If they dont come with the machine i i just forgo them because idk how toncalculate andnconfigure one to make myself or to even buy the right one online. Anyway, thabks a ton, helped me much
So I have my lathe with the mc2100 board up and running ,thanks to your info. Now I'm doing another project but I have an alt 6330a board and I'm not sure I can control this one with just a pwm controller. Any knowledge of these boards?
Glad you were able to use the info! Contact me through my website and send me some pix of the 6330a and I will see if I can find a hack. If not a properly set up SCR is a cost effective way to go. In fact I will be uploading a video next week comparing the MC-2100 to a properly configured SCR.
hi david, well i couldnot not post my question here while having a compressor 150 liters looking for motor. i have used my treadmill motors for various things but not a compressor-single head. neither seen any body did that. so, what do you think about this possibility? home use not daily use. thanks dear
Unless I am missing something, I don't really see an advantage. An AC motor would be more efficient than a comparable DC motor powered with AC converted to DC. The reason to use a DC motor is variable speed and there is no reason for that on a compressor. I would try and find an AC motor with similar specs to the one you are replacing.
thank you so much for great info i have the last board that you talked about but it is little bit different it is MC 2100LTS-30 does it need a choke or not? please your help will be greatly appreciated thank you in advance !
Hi DazeCars, With the knowledge you share in your videos I've successfully converted a JET Wood Lathe to a treadmill motor and have now powered my rotary dirt sifter with one. In both cases I'm still using the original treadmill power supplies and controllers, and, also the user interface panel. Using the panel has the additional benefit of allowing me to monitor my heart rate. 😊 Wondering if you have ever modified the speed of a motor by adjusting the potentiometers on the board. The manual for the PROFORM 520X has instructions for calibrating various functions of the machine including the speed. I ask because the speed of the lowest setting is slightly too fast for my dirt sifter and slowing it down mechanically by changing pulley diameters would be pretty difficult. Thanks again for the great videos and content. Jay
glad my channel has helped!! I have not done anything with treadmill control panels due to their size and because of the limitations of it being designed for a treadmill (soft start and other treadmill specific features). Even though challenging the best option for low end speed is ALWAYS gearing as it allows for more torque through the entire RPM range.
Awesome Thank you for sharing this info! Question: Can reverse be added to this circuit when using the MC-2100 board? Need reverse in a lathe operation when backing out a tap.
Yes it can. Next weeks video is on wiring a forward/reverse switch. Be very carful using that MC2100 on your lathe as they are not very robust. You may want to also watch last weeks video th-cam.com/video/yMkW2SXl_sA/w-d-xo.html
I think I have the mc1200 and I want to do away with the counsel board do to its size. The problem I have is my flat plug has 8 wires. Can you tell me what colors are my "H" "W" "L"? The colored wires are black, orange, red, blue, yellow, green, purple, and brown. I took a close up picture of the plug and wires but I see no way to attach it,
If it’s an mc2100 you can’t use a potentiometer. You need a signal generator. This video has all the information you need. Programming XY KPWM & ZK PP1K PWM Signal Generator For Use With an MC2100 Treadmill Motor Controller
It is not that simple. Depends on the drag being applied by what the motor is attached to, the power supply being used, the design of the motor, and gear ratio.
Great video 👍 iv got a MC 2000 board do I run power through the LG2 white and the LG1 blue direct and then connect a speed control unit i I need help with this please
Not sure what you mean by power supply. if you are after the signal generator, this is the PWM signal generator for the 2100 I am using amzn.to/3z3ivu3
@@jstc89 Its a 16V class 2 transformer like this one www.ebay.com/itm/403398903466?hash=item5dec72c6aa:g:y-kAAOSwEqlh2Ru2&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJiM7SVzN2tj2Jp5eN0btQa2EeEONRdC2E4hL3onQye1MI%2B2bbxEXk1qNg8P5rZlRXvgLyjVGZSdj6ZsgdWRYRpyJRjPeG9EaucPD%2F2kIGr%2BMWlQWNALPIR2Q8dej%2FrNwtewXwGHV00Xl45Nt%2FR3neuzZRgnofVlROomI8rdfzzw57PjECMOOgVnPFI4WKUMj5bCk69i6XRj6nvovoNA1t8%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR87ljIWNYQ
Brilliant work. Thank you for uploading. I have a MC-2100 which i am going to get a PWM controller for (to fix my treadmill actually!). According to the schematic, the PWM controller will be powered by the MC-2100's 12V rail.. Then the MC-2100 expects a PWM signal in the range of 0V to 5V. Just wondering does the PWM controller's duty cycle effectively "step down" to this 5V or is it spitting out +12V?
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. That is a very good question, and something I never thought to look into. Most modern applications are looking for a 5V input as that has become the industry standard due to USB. I would assume its putting out 5V. Even if it is not because of the slow pulsing required to drive the MC-2100 even at 12V it would effectively be a lot less than 12V. In other words your MC-2100 uses PWM technology to take a roughly 100V DC current and apply it to a motor at a "lower voltage", not by actually stepping the voltage down but by applying the full voltage but then switching on and off quickly to “reduce” it. The same would be true of the PWM controller. It is pulsing on and off at a slower rate and should be putting out less voltage. You now naw have me curious. I will go out and set one up with a meter and see if I can get an output reading. I will report back.
I have some answers. First of all let me say that was very astute of you to notice the voltage difference on the spec sheet, I missed it!! I went out to my shop, plugged in a 2100 board, a PWM, and used my multi meter to run some tests. You are correct that the 12V going in on the PMW is also what is coming out as a signal BUT as I predicted the PWM action reduces that voltage. At 100% duty cycle the voltage is 12V. At 45% it drops to 5V. I too looked at the schematic and the 0-5V is what is coming out of the control board and is not necessarily what the MC-2100 can handle. Obviously it works in that range but I think it can handle more voltage without any problem. I know lots of guys have run this type of PMW on a 2100 for years without issue so I don't think the higher voltage is a problem especially because it is just a signal wire. With that said there are a couple of options for a 5V fix. You could hook up a 5V voltage regulator (7805) between the board and the PMW to step the voltage down OR there is a 3 prong connecter next to the main connector that also has 5V output. I plugged into that 5V output on the 2100 and it powered the PMW without issue and had a range from 0-5V depending on duty cycle. With yours actually being in a treadmill I am sure the 5V output is being used but you could probably tap into it. Let me know if I can be of any further help.
@@dazecars Thank you for the response and sorry for the delay in getting back to you (Yt didn't notify me for some reason)... Yes I think that because there is no draw (large current) I do not think the 2100 cares. All it wants is signal on/off at the required frequency. I'd say it could operate at even larger voltages (but I won't try)... Many thanks for measuring this and it makes me feel much more comfortable applying the 12v PWM to the 2100
I had to replace one of the Mofett and after soldering it on then plugging everything back in, the red light will just flash while pressing start. Any ideas?
Great info, in a great video with well spoken narration. Thanks for that. I have a question: I have a treadmill motor and controller, the MC2100 you referenced here. My plan is to use these for a lathe upgrade, but getting braking and reverse switching designed so as to not damage the motor or the controller does not seem to be readily available info. Do you have this setup on yours, and is there a schematic or some diagram to indicate the setup? Or at least some info about this? Thanks
On my lathe I use an SCR voltage controller but there is no reason you shouldn't be able to use the treadmill controller. There is no braking on mine the way it is set up, and when I turn it off it comes to a stop after a few seconds. As for reversing direction that is as simple as reversing the wires going into the motor. I do it on mine with a DPDT switch that is off in the middle. (I use that switch all the time when threading) The only improtant thing is that the motor is not miving when you go the other direction. There is more info and pix on how to reverse direction on my web page writeup. Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have more questions. dazecars.com/dazed/variable.html
@@dazecars Thanks for your reply, I agree the reversing is very straight forward. What I'm really wanting is the braking, and motors have inherent braking by just shorting the red and black together while the rotor is spinning. But that is a very abrupt stop and I was looking for some resistor values that can make it a bit more gentle. I've seen control units from KB Electronics that do it, but I wanted to adapt it to the MC2100 since I have one that is working perfectly. I've done a bit of rooting around on the interwebs, I'll keep at it and hopefully find something. Thanks again.
@@jameshisself9324 After some testing I know some things BUT I am not an electrical engineer I am just a hobbiest so some of my finding ar a best educted guess. First you are correct a dead short is way to abrupt and would be hard on the motor. I also know that between 10-20 ohms is a good resistance to get decent braking BUT I didn't have a high enough wattage resister to get it working consistently. The problem is these motors (at max) are on average 1600 watts to drive them. I know that as a generator they will not produce the same output as it would take to drive them. In other words if 90V and 18A gets you 4000 RPM then once that power is eliminated that same 4000 RPM will produce something less than 90v and 18A but I am not sure how much less. Either way you need a resistor that will handle the max wattage even though it will rapidly drop as the motor slows down and you want a resistor that can handle the braking repeatedly so shooting for one that is a minimum of 1600 watts (watts = V * A) would be a good starting point BUT I would air on the side of bigger. The other issue is I found is that an MC-2100 board does not like the power to the motor cut and then reestablished (I was using a DPDT switch to go from powering to braking) and using that switch overloaded the 2100 board and I fried it. (small price to pay for some knowledge) If I was going to use a braking resister I think I would drive the motor with the more robust SCR voltage controller although I did not test one because I ran out of resisters. 😁 Interestingly enough if you look on eBay for resistors with 1500W-2000W and in the 10-20ohm range they are called "braking resistors"
@@dazecars Wow, great research. Sorry to hear you sacrificed a controller for this. It sounds like you did what I was afraid to do! I've been researching mostly through documentation I could find, which has been very limited. It sounds like you are saying that just disconnecting and reconnecting the motor from the controller while running will damage the controller? I was under the impression they could handle that. Again, just internet research not my own testing. I don't have extra controllers to sacrifice. It sounds as though the MC2100 is not suitable for a lathe then. I've got very old EE skills (doing SW now as it's more lucrative) so I would love to tackle the challenge of getting this to work with the controller I already have. But I don't want to start collecting treadmills so this might be the only unit I get and usually I can research enough online to have a predictable enough outcome to avoid sacrificial testing for other projects. This one has been more challenging and now I wonder if it is just not possible with this controller. Your excellence research and testing of the SCR units might be the way I need to go.
Hello. I'm looking to control a treadmill motor to drive a pottery wheel. I need a slide control to use in a foot pedal, which means a potentiometer. I think it might be possible to find a pwm with a constant frequency output that is controlled by a potentiometer. Any ideas about this?
When it comes to PWM all of them that I have seen are completely digital and one with a potentiometer would be analog. The output would be digital but it would be hard to get into range the 20 hz. Most just have three ranges changed by pins. An SCR would be easy for the potentiometer BUT not have the constant speed input.
Do you think you could use a cell phone with a pulse generator app download and if you could how might one go about connecting it to the board? Thank you
I am just speculating here but you would probably need some sort of bluetooth interfase to conect the phone to the board. It would be way more expensive than the simple little PWM I use in the video.
Great video and very informative. I have a mc80 Although it does have the LWH connection the board seems to be very small compared to the boards you have on this video. Is it a good board to use or should I keep looking for one of the boards you have on this video?
The MC-80 is half way between the MC-60 and the MC-2000. Not a bad way to go as long as the motor is not too large. As far as the boards, in my video the MC-2000 and MC-2100 are good boards but IMHO not any better or worse than a properly setup SCR system. I say that because of your comment, “or should I keep looking for one of the boards you have on this video?” SCR controllers have a bad reputation because so many people have used cheep ones and not done anything to clean the power. I like SCR controllers and use them on all my equipment because they are easier to use, less expensive, and more robust than a PWM type treadmill board and all the issues that give an SCR a bad reputation can be eliminated. SO I guess to answer your question if it was me and I had the MC-80 I would use it. If it burns up then switch to an SCR. I hope that helps
Hi, my lifefitness 9500hr next gen treadmill electrics recently got fried. It has a large AC motor, says three phase. Can you recommend any controller to run tge treadmill as lifefitness no longer provide support.thanks lee
I can point you in the correct direction but I do not have specifics for you. A VFD could be used to have variable speed for that motor and could control the basic on off and speed function of the treadmill BUT there would be no safety features like the magnet clip shut off or soft start. in other words if it was going faster than the user and the machine threw said user there would not be the magnet clip shut off also with the elimination of soft start If you shut it off at a high speed and then turned it back on without changing that speed it would resume at the higher speed.
Hey, Just wondering if you are familiar with a TM5917 board? Its the one I have. Similar to the ones you show here. Since we last spoke I purchased a tiny push button PWM and connected it to the 4 pin connector on my TM5917 controller. 20Hz did nothing. Just wondering if you can you suggest any other frequencies to try?
the 'Signal' LED on the board flashes fast when I connect the PWM which makes me think I have some of it correct. Just connecting one lead and the LED flashes so I guess there is a common and maybe it can work with just 3 of the 4 connected. It is possible of course that the board has a fault. Or soft start is an issue because my cheap tiny PWM does not have an on off switch. I unlugged it, then a second or so later plugged it back in again, but no motor spin.
soft start is easy to overcome by turning the signal generator all the way down and then back up again. The flashing LED makes me think the hz is correct but other than that I don't see any obvious solutions.
I purchased an MC2100LTS-50w board. The board did not come with an 8 pin male connector. Do you or anyone else have one I can purchase. I also need an appropriate sized DC choke. Thanks Jerry
Belo trabalho em seus videos sobre o scr tenho um com potenciometro de chave e também se for possivel informe tenho uma placa mc60 esta funcionando somente veloc. alta o que pode ser ? o resistor controlador de velocidade queimou por alta temperatura ? (Brasil)
If the MC60 is only producing one speed and it is fast, the switching component that turns off and on to regulate the power has likely burned out in the on position. Not sure which component that is however.
Can you run a MC2100LT REV board and the motor you are controlling off of 220V ? Or is it just gonna smoke it? Reason I'm asking is I'm converting my wood lathe over to a treadmill motor and I know that the 220V will give me more and consistent power.
I don't know if it will smoke it or not. I have not seen anything on the spec sheet that would indicate 220 capability. Yes 220 makes an AC motor run more consistantly but if will not have the same result with a DC motor. I wouldn't even mess with trying to run it 220
Hey! Have you ever heard of a B017d control board? I am attempting to use one on and a treadmill motor on my lathe. I am not super electronically inclined though and was hoping to find a write up using that board instead of an MC board, but have had no luck! Thanks for making such great videos
I was not familiar with it so I looked up a pic and that looks similar to the 2100. I would guess it relies on a PWM signal just like the 2100 but I can not say for sure. Was there a pin out sheet inside the treadmill? if not do you still have the treadmill touch panel? often times the circuit board on the touch panel is labeled and you can trace the wires back to determine proper hookup.
@@dazecars Unfortunately I got the unit with no control panel (it was damaged and thrown out), so I am going in a little blind. The plug to the control board does have labels next to each pin. I will see if they are similar to the pins on the mc2100. Thanks!
@@dazecars it has 5 wires coming out of the controller plug. One is labeled "GND" another id labeled 12v, so those ones are easy! There is also an "SW" "RXD" and "TXD". I was hoping to find a diagram online for this treadmill but no luck so far!
You might have missed one of my previous replies as I mention that exact thing "wood shop changes things, you want it free from dust but you also want it to have cooling. I would mount it in an electrical box with venting"
That’s the problem. In a treadmill you have a fairly open cavity for heat to dissipate. You also have the fan on the motor circulating air in the treadmill. No it’s not blowing directly on the board as it’s primary function is motor cooling but the moving air is going to still help. In your case a small fan is probably a good idea BUT you need it to be low dust so I’m not sure the best option for your application.
Newbie to electronics here--i have the exact board and treadmill motor with 4 wires. Can i leave everything wired the way it is originally and ONLY change thre controller to the pwm controller OR do i have to switch around certain wires and which ones? Thx
First of all being a “newbie” be very careful AC can kill and there are places on the board that if touched while the board is on, could shock you. With that said removing the main controller cable and correctly connecting the PWM in its place will allow you to control the motor speed without the treadmill head unit. As far as the rest of the wiring, the way it is wired for the treadmill is how it needs to be wired for use outside the treadmill UNLESS there is an incline motor. That would change things.
The four wires going to the motor allow an overheat situation to interrupt power to motor. Usually the two wires for overheat are blue and the red/black wires are motor power. Most people do not use the blue wires unless the motor is noted to get hot during their normal use. My guess would be if you run the motor too slow to allow the fan to cool or at or near max HP for the motor would justify it. I'm not sure how they wire to the board originally.
@@jaspermcconnell6417 the blue wires take no extra effort to use so I always recommend you hook them up if your motor has them. They are designed to cut the AC power coming in, in an overheat situation. On an MC-60 or MC-2000 you would use the blue wires as the connection between the switch and the board. In other words the hot AC wire (black) goes into the power switch and one of the blue wires comes out of the switch as the hot. The second blue wire connects to the hot in on the board. The result is power comes from the wall to the switch, if the switch is on power flows through the first blue wire to the thermal switch in the motor and then out on the other blue wire to the board. If the motor get s to hot power is cut. The same wiring is true for some early MC-2100 boards. Later ones however have two extra terminals, next to the AC in on the board, that are there to connect the blue wires or a circuit breaker.
Hi I’ve bought the Zk pp1k to run my mc2100e treadmill board and motor. But first time switching on it blew the fuse in the supply plug. After trying some of the adjust with the buttons at certain stages of adjustment the motor will try and run for a split second with sparks flying of the brushes area do you have any ideas what going on or do you know if there are any wiring instructions anywhere that I can work from. I set it at 20 hz the power %buttons do nothing I’ve tried the other setting you get when you hold down the set button and the motor went pop again. I thought this was going to be simple as al the vids I’ve looked at make it seem like a couple of minutes work I’m getting to the stage where it all going in the bin and I will have to go for three phase not what I want to do but I need to get a motor running for my new belt grinder I’ve make. If you can give me any advice it would be very much appreciated. Phil
Sounds you set up the PWM correctly but have a bad MOSFET of the board. There is a switching transister on the board called a MOSFET. It switches on and off at varring rates. This on off pattern it what adjusts voltage. Some times when a MOSFET goes bad it will stay in the fully on position so you are getting full volts all at once. hence the sparks then the board senses a problem and shuts off. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Hi very informative. I have an exercise treadmill machine Nordictrack A2250 with a mc 2100 board. I changed the mosfet in the board once because was shorted and installed back on in the machine, and as soon I started the treadmill it got shorted again. so I changed the mosfet the second time and this time I removed the Treadmill Motor Belt and started the treadmill with the new mosfet in the mc 2100 board and this time did not blow up the mosfet but as soon I installed the motor belt back again and I started the treadmill and this time it did blow up the mosfet again. somebody told me to check the flyback diode if its one in the board, but I don"t know if it has one but if it does I don"t know how to troubleshoot the flyback diode. Any ideas? thank you the treadmill walking belt its find. it does not fill hard to turn it. it fills free motion.
it does have a flyback diode but that is likely not the problem. There is a smaller component next to the rectifier. This is similar to a MOSFET and should always be changed the same time as the other. Sometimes they fail in the "on" position and that will cause other components to fail.
@@dazecars Thank you for your quick respond with out a diagram for the mc 2100 board it"s hard to identify the part names. so the smaller component next to the rectifier (mosfet) but when I search on the internet for part replacement by the serial numbers printed in the component it can not find it, any advice?
@@MORJOYES the rectifier is the largest component on the heat sink all the way to the right. The smaler component to the left of the rectifier is the one I am talking about. I got some off of eBay.
hard to say. Could be one ow the switching transisters attached to the heat sink at one end or the bridge rectifier allso attached to the heat sink at the other end.
Not all treadmill control boards have an MC designation. It depends on the manufacturer. The board model number is usually on the actual board. Also there is often a sticker on the heat sink. The 4 I talk about in the video are all clearly marked so if there is not a clear mark with one of those numbers then it is not one of the boards I talk about in the video.
I’m sorry to be lazy…but do you have a video showing how you put it all together to power an installed motor on something like a drill press? You mention other items on your bench and I’m not sure I understand what they are or what their purpose is or how they connect in the layout. Thank you!
I have tons of videos on the topic, this palaylist has 60 th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html I would need to know what type of power supply you plan on using to give you a specific video.
I am happy to help. At this point replying to all comments is still manageable so as long as I am able I will continue to do so. I have no hands on experience with the MC70, but like the other early MC boards MC60, MC80, and MC2000 it is an early SCR type controller. Should be usable. the only possible issues are soft start and a lack of a fine speed control.
The DC choke goes in line on the + output of the board between the + output and the + wire going into the motor. An AC choke goes between the two power wires coming into the board and the AC inputs
I would like to send a picture of the board that I got today with my free treadmill but I don't see an option to send photo not sure what type looks real similar to the one you use with the plug in wiring it also has 2 ferrite chokes on the board but I can't find the H W L pole
Thank you for the video. Biggest help so far. Motor will come on but pulsates. Want to use for my treadmill. Everything good except push buttons on monitor board Want to use board for emergency cut off. Treadmill Nordic track C2050 about 15 years old Motor board number MC-2100 REV B V#37376 As you suggested Got a ZK-PP1K PULSE GENERATOR MOTOR RUNS BUT PULSATES. SPEED CONTROL WORKS ON GENERATOR BUT MOTOT STILL PULSATES. UNHOOKED ALL WIRES ON MONITOR BOARD LEAADING FROM MOTOR BOARD. STUMPED. Any suggestions? Do not want to get rid of good treadmill because of electrics. Just know it can be fixed if find out how. Thank you for any help
I wish I could tell you exactly what the issue is but I don't know. I am a hobbiest when it comes to electronics and I understand basic circuits and workarounds but am not a professional so in your case I am not sure what part is not functioning properly causing your issue. Sorry
FINALLY - YES! Been watching way too many TH-cam Boobs talk about things they don't know what they're discussing. I know this is going to lead to things getting damaged and people potentially getting hurt. THANK YOU SO MUCH for finally telling me what I need to control my 2100 board. Clear and concise. And most importantly, logically correct. I'm saving your video for further review. You're not a YT Boob.
glad I could help. Just keep in mind that depending on your application the MC2100 is not very robust.
Just received my PWM controller and have been grinning like an idiot at my smooth running treadmill motor for 20 minutes now.
Figured I should be productive and tell everyone it was because of this video. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. I am so glad my video helped!
one of the specialist of this field didn't even know pulse width modulation he just call it *PMW*!
great video at least you know what you do.
Glad I could help. I'm just a hobbyist but I try to be as accurate as I can.
My fingers got that stained once when I was dissolving silver nickel copper coins in nitric acid. Some of the liquid spilt down the neck of the flask and wet my fingers.. I washed them a few minutes later but too late. The thing was that the staining came on over the next few hours and stayed for more than a week! Excellent vid, thanks man.
glad you liked it
Thanks for this video! I found an old treadmill with the MC-2100 and thought there was no way I’d ever be able to run the motor using the onboard controller. I happened to have a PWM module and it worked. Thanks man
Glad I could help, but before you put a bunch of time and effort into that board you may want to check my latest video. th-cam.com/video/yMkW2SXl_sA/w-d-xo.html
@@dazecars interesting. I wonder what failed on the board. I’ll be looking forward to your video on the soft start. I’m not sure what I’ll be using the motor for. My first test run on the motor was with a variac and a bridge rectifier and capacitor. Thanks for the reply.
👍
I saw your videos on setting up a quality speed controller because I am a noob and I just assumed that I couldn’t use the supplied board without also using the treadmill display. I started watching some other videos because I was overwhelmed with the thought of sourcing the necessary parts and was glad to find this one. One tip: you might want to put a link to this video in your other videos because some of your viewers might not know this is an option!
thanks for the suggestion
This is the most comprehensive and well laid out video explaining how to modify treadmill controllers I have ever seen, have fitted treadmill motors to my Seig Mill and Hobbymatt lathe so this will help me to adapt the controllers I have, will be doing this tomorrow, many thanks regards Doc Cox.
Glad it was helpful! Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or if I can be of further help.
@@dazecars Thank you, had a look in thre shed for my stash of treadmill control boards and found I had four MC 2100,s plus chokes and filters so will be having a go when the signal generator turns up.
👍
Thanks for doing this nice summary of treadmill motors and controllers. I use these all the time and have a few others to add to your list. So if you don't mind I'd like to comment on these and few other things I've learned over the years.
By the way I like the term "safe start" better "soft start". (there are "soft starts" available for large industrial motors). Safe start makes sure a tread mill does start at a high speed when you get on it, thus the term safe start. It is an inconvenience when using these on our home shop machines, but there are ways around it.
As you pointed out the benefit of a DC motor is the ability to easily adjust the speed. Equally important however is that a DC can produce its full torque throughout the speed range. The current going thru the motor is proportional to the torque it is producing. The DC voltage applied to the motor determines its speed. So the controller simply controls the voltage based on the speed setting (potentiometer or PWM) and the load on the motor determines how much current it will draw from the controller. Most controllers will limit the amount of current it will provide and when it reaches that point it will start to decrease the voltage to keep things from overloading. The motors sometimes have protection built into them also. As you showed in your video the blue wires coming out of the motor is a thermal overload (not a fuse) and it will open the circuit (just like the on-switch) if the motor gets too hot.
I found an MC-20 in a small low end treadmill and used it on a small bench top drill press along with the 1HP motor that was in the treadmill. I could not find much info on the MC-20 so I was unable to disable the safe start but I just turn the pot down to zero each time I start and then set it to the desired speed.
I've used the MC-60 on my vintage Craftsman bandsaw to slow the speed so I could cut metal (using a metal cutting blade). It works very well. You can easily defeat the safe start by snipping one lead on R27. Mine is an MC-60 rev H. I've also used the MC-60 on my Atlas/Craftsman lathe. I've documented this on the Craftsman Lathe Forum if you are interested.
I have an actual treadmill (don't use it much anymore) that has an MC-80. From what I can tell its very similar to the MC-60. I don't think my wife will ever let me dismantle it.....
I do have an MC-2000 on the shelf that I plan to use on a belt sander some day.
Lastly I'm using an MC-2100 on a small CNC mill I'm building. My research led me to believe the PWM period needed to be 50 HZ, not 20. When I get time I may change that to 20HZ and see what happens. I'm using an Arduino to the read the value of potentiometer and generate the PWM signal to the MC-2100. You also need to limit the PWM pulse width to 85%. The nice thing about using an Arduino is you can defeat the safe start in software by controlling the PWM output according to your needs.
Thanks for letting me hack your thread. I hope others will learn how easy it is to use these controllers in their home shops.
JD
Thanks for the comment and I am glad you liked the video. Defeating the "soft start" 😁 on the MC-20 should be easy. I took a look at a picture of one and it is the same 3 wire potentiometer hook up as the MC-60 or MC-2000, It just may not be Labeled H W and L (high low and wipe) The important thing is that the red wire terminal should be the high which could be verified with a multimeter. To disable safe start simply wire in a normally closed momentary push button switch between the potentiometer and the red or H terminal. Then to use the tool without safe start, push the button breaking the connection and power the machine on then release the momentary switch and the motor will spin up to the preset speed without having turn the speed control all the way down and back up again.
As to the 20hz V 50hz I went out to my shop and set up a 2100 board with PWM controller. Worked beautifully at 20hz but I could not get the motor to turn on at 50hz. Just an FYI
Thanks again,, you are amazing,, and you have no idea how much anxiety you have relieved me of.
I'm not very clever and you make it so easy to follow,, I wish you were my neighbour 😃
Glad I could help
Appreciate this guide! I have a 2100 I've been wanting to repurpose
Glad I could help. Let me know if you have any questions or problems.
Thank you! I've spent many hours of research trying to find this kind of information. It's out there but hard to find. I used an Arduino to run the MC-2100 before finding the PWM method.
Excellently made video. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Great video, thanks! I've done both an SCR controller and a MC-2100 with pwm and I love the latter; it runs very smooth and quiet. I used a a raspberry pi pico for the pwm and wired a potentiometer to the pico to make adjusting the speed nice and easy.
Thanks for sharing
Really nice job man. Wish I would have had this video months ago! I have a MC2100 and getting good info on it in language I understand was nearly impossible.
Glad you liked it.
The most productive informative video indeed. Just have to buy a pwm. I think one of the controller I have is the last one you flashed and moved out of the way, the complicated one you said you can' t hack. I have to look. I assume if a board doesn't show PWM somewhere, it is a no go.
But I have the other two. One I just use the potentiometer and the other I believe needs pwm.
Thank you so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@dazecars I guess what I have is asm-mef1j-3b. Vision T9700HRT Controller # 013738-A. I wonder what that type of connector is that called, the one big one with two rows of needle pins sticking out of it that the flat white strip gets connected to and then locks in place, what each pin might be. And the other one I have is Precor pcb# 36526-203
@@alchemy1 The only solution I have for using those boards is to use the control panel that came with the treadmill. If it was me rather than using the treadmill controller I would simply go with a QUALITY SCR power supply.
Exactly what I needed! Great video.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the great info on these boards
Any time!
Hi. Thanks for your videos! When you are discussing hooking up the 2100 with PWM, you mention putting the power through the ferrite choke. It looks like you point to the coil choke, but I do see the ferrite one sitting behind it and am assuming that is what you were pointing at. Can you just confirm that you do not use the coil choke anywhere in your circuit for the 2100 board and although it was sitting on your bench, it was not Connected to anything.
What you are referring to as a coil is also a choke. I use the doughnut choke to clean the AC and then a motor choke (transformer looking part) can be used on the DC power but with a PWM like an MC2100 it is not required like it is on an SCR setup.
Excellent video. You just saved us all some time.
Glad I could help!
Finally a decent tutorial, many many thanks 👍😄
I appreciate the comment, glad I could help.
If I want to keep the flywheel on my motor, do I grind/file the grooves off and get a fitting pulley? Or can I get a pulley with the same grooves to put on my harbor freight wood lathe shaft? Also what are recommended outer diameter pully sizes for bowl turning? I'm sorry if you've already answered this for someone else.
either should work. On my mill build I cut the grooves off and then fit a pulley over the top. As to pulley size I would go with the biggest ratio that still gives you desired max speed.
@@dazecars thanks again! On a side note, you should get with audible and narrate some books. You got one of those voices. I'd buy that book lol
@@TurnItUpbyTravis1213 thanks!
Hey DazeCars, I have the MC2100 board, and I thought I had salvaged all the components but I'm not sure now after watching. At 6:09 you are pointing out the peices on the bench and you point to what I thought was a transformer, but you called it the Ferrite Choke. I thought the choke was the round thing with the wires coiled around it. I also have the same PWM as your first demo' d set up, but my motor won't start. Any ideas as to where I should go from here? When I salvaged this treadmill, it worked intermitantly and I traced it to a separation in the touch screen plastic layered switching for the speed controls and incline on the consol. The motor did work before is what I am trying to get at. I double (actually quadruple) checked my wiring as per yours and it all looks good except for your Ferrite choke thingy. I was so glad I found your video as I have been struggling with this off and on for a while now, and but alas my struggle seems to continue. Cheers and thanks for posting.
There are two chokes. The AC choke is the doughnut and the DC choke is the thing you thought was a transformer (I show both a DC choke and a transformer in the video and go over the differences). They look the same but are totally different. A choke will have 2 wires and a transformer will have 4 or more. Your machine may not have come with a DC choke, not all machines have them. They are not required but your motor will run cooler and last longer if you use one. As to your problems getting the motor to spin, did you change the pmw to the correct frequency?
@@dazecars where would someone find a DC ferrite choke? My MC 2100 didn't have one and I'd like to get the best outcome possible. Any info is appreciated!
@@TurnItUpbyTravis1213 You can get the choke on eBay search "Treadmill choke" Just know that people don't know what they have and think transformers and chokes are interchangeable because they look almost the same, but they are not. To know which one is actually being listed look at the wires coming out of it. if it has 2 it is a choke if it has 4 or more it is a transformer.
@@dazecars thank you! Your videos have helped out a ton!
@@TurnItUpbyTravis1213 Glad I could help!
really nice and didactic video but how can we reconize the pins for the pwm connection on the board; there are no signs or nummembers on the board(mc2-v3,1).
an MC2 uses a potentiometer not a PWM
Thanks for the information on dc motor controllers, I harvested a motor and contoller from a treadmill that has a MC1650LS-2W controller. I am trying to find information on this model controller and how I can connect a potentiometer to the controller. The wires that connect to the controller are color coded black with white stripe, red,green,blue. I have 10.5v from red wire and 4.9 from green wire, they connect to the controller with only the markings of HD4.
Can I use a potentiometer with this board or do I need to use a pulse generator and how do I connect them. Thanks for any help you can give.
contact me through my website. email me pictures of the board, the motor, and the data sheet ( if there was one inside your treadmill) and I will see if I can help.
I have a MC2100 from a treadmill. The plan is to retrofit my wood lathe. My question is what type of box should I be looking for to house everything? Thankful
wood shop changes things, you want it free from dust but you also want it to have cooling. I would mount it in an electrical box with venting. If you watch my ELS video you can see the type of box I mounted the electronics in.
Please do a video on the MC1618DLS There is not a video or wiring diagram on Google. Im guessing one needs a PWM controller to use it. Keep the videos coming, ive watched all yours at lease twice. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
At the moment I can't because I don't have one. The videos I have done are for boards I have gotten scrapping out treadmills. With out the parts I can't try to hack them and not all are easily hackable.
Great video 👍
Is a MT05 board any use?
I picked up a new treadmill with a damaged cord. Repaired the cord, but the control panel doesn’t illuminate.
I’m sure it’s a issue with the wire that runs through the frame to the control panel, but I want to repurpose the motor anyway.
Was there a spec sheet under the cover? contact me through my website so you can send me pix. I need close up shots of the board especially the connections and the spec sheet if it was inside the treadmill and I will see what I can do.
@@dazecars no spec sheet unfortunately.
I managed to remove the board, motor and wiring intact.
I’ll take some pics and send them over.
Much appreciated 👍
👍
Thanks for taking the time to post this kind of info for the do it yourselfer. I have a ProForm 695Pi it's about 15 years old and has had little use. Recently I started using it and after about 2 weeks of using it 20 min a day at 2.3 Mph , the motor began to stop running. If I get off the belt it will go back to running at the set speed. I have lubed the belt but the motor has begun to act up even sooner now. any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.
sounds like an issue with the motor controller, but I can not say for sure. contact this guy and tell him I sent you. He specializes in treadmill repair
Fitness Technology youtube channel
th-cam.com/users/FitnessTech...
Website
fitnesspartspro.com
1st video of hundreds watched telling me exactly what needs done to get the 2100 running. I have the main console for the proform treadmill, but I need it to run for days at a certain rpm for tumbling rocks. Because of that, it looks like I’ll have to bypass the console with your suggestion. One question though, if my pwm and pulse generator doesn’t have an on off switch, can I insert one in between the motor control board and pwm?
I honestly don't know. You could put the switch between the PWM and the board on the PW signal wire, but the electronics in the board may or may not respond to it being turned on an off. You could also put said switch on the power lead to the PWM (the first option is probably better assuming it works) The one draw back to these boards is the safety featurs that are built in for use in a treadmill and having never tried it I couln't say if the board will "like" thatsignal being inturepted or not. I am not exactly sure what kind of a signal comes out of the PWM when you hit "off" and that is where the question arrises.
@@dazecars ty for your advice, now to see if this all works. Better than an interruption every 2 hours, or hearing a loud noise to find out the treadmill went from a speed of 1 to a speed of 6. That was crazy seeing 100lbs of rock spinning that fast because the treadmill course took it to 6 😂
Just a fyi if you’re interested. The pwm frequency meter I bought is identical to yours, but without the on/off switch (Drok is the brand). I had a switch ready, looking for a fail (due to the soft start is what I think you called it), and as soon as the frequency hit 20 hertz, it started running, no switch necessary. Does that sound odd to you? Made finishing up a little easier for me. Thanks again for your direction! A $13 part made it all much easier!
👍
Day, what’s the difference between a pulse width modulator and a potentiometer? They look similar but the modulator has modes wires so I assume something else is going on with it. Thanks, loving your videos. Having to repeat watching to get every detail.
They are about as different as two electronics can be. A PWM (used to controll an MC-2100) is signal generator. It sends out electric pulses at a given rate depending on how it is setup. A PWM power supply such as the MC2100 turnes the power off an on rapidly at a given rate to reduce voltage. A potentiometer is variable resistor. It creates a resistance and that resistance can be changed.
In the realm of junked treadmills, which brands or models would you choose to tear into? There are a couple of very accommodating salvage operations nearby.
For me the answer is all of them. Any chance I have to pick up a free treadmill I take. Some times I get something with lots of parts I can use: steel, motor, control board(s). I even keep the decking from most treadmills, I have a workbench with shelving underneath and all the shelves are made from the treadmill decking boards. Other times I will get a treadmill that only the motor is usable. There are so many makes and models that I never know what I am getting until I pull the cover. Once the cover is off I know immediately what I can and can't use.
Very informative. Great video.
Have you had any experience with speed sensors on these motors?
The motor I have has a wheel at the opposite end to the drive shaft.
Has a sensor with 3 wire plug that connects into the board. Is there any way to display the RPM?
The main function of that sensor is speed consistency. When you lode the motor it will slow down some and that sensor should help maintain consistent speeds through a range of loads. I have not played with that function. As for an rpm display I’m sure it probably could be done but not for less money than a stand alone unit like the one I installed in this video. Which board are you using?
th-cam.com/video/MmRMNo9IbVU/w-d-xo.html
@@dazecars Thanks for the info. I found your RPM video 5 mins after my comment🤠. Have one on order
👍
Good video. It saved me a lot of time and money.
Glad it helped
Immensely @@dazecars
👍
Great video! I have an MC-1648 board, which is [visually] very similar to the MC-2100. The connector where you attach the PWM looks to be in a similar location, but has a lot more wires. My guess is that I'd simply disconnect all but the 4 wires needed for the PWM. I've seen on forums that the MC-1648 wants a 5V signal on the blue wire and some people have added resistors to step down from 12V. Do you have any info on wiring this PWM to the MC-1648 board? Thanks so much!
I have not gotten one of those board to mess with
@@dazecars Thank you! I'm going to give it a try, and I'll report back.
👍
How hot is that white tall rectangular component supposed to get on the MC 2100 board? Mine gets very hot. Every time I energize the board and I’ve got it wired exactly the way yours is.
Very, it’s a resistor and is used to bleed power off of other components. The energy it bleeds off is converted into heat. That is why that component is ceramic so it can handle the heat.
Daze, I tore apart a Nordic track treadmill with a board like the very last one you showed (mine is labeled me520-26). It has another panel with what looks to be two inductors, a capacitor and two components that look like filter chokes wired in series? I'd love to salvage them if they are chokes but the actual windings are hidden behind plastic. Pricing this part on Amazon it runs $450 so I'd hate to tear it apart to find out they are transformers. Curious if you've you've run into these before?
I probably can't help but maybe I would know what it is, send me some pix through my website
Hello,I have a MC2100WA Motor Control Board on a Pro-form Treadmill when I plug it in the red light on the bottom right side comes on and the Treadmill will not kick on I replaced the speed control wire it worked a couple of times then it did the same thing a solid red light and nothing works on the console so what do I need to do when the red light stays on and it doesn't work. Thank You Steve
I am not a treadmill repair tech so I do not know.
Hi I have a treadmill that won’t stay on it’s got the MC-2100 REV B board on it! The power light on the board is lit and when I press the on switch the motor briefly comes on but then shuts off and the power light goes off too! then the power light cycles back on and repeats the same problem again & again! Is there a component that I should check for this problem? Also the white ceramic block labeled
7W 3K3J FY gets very hot is this normal? Thanks for your emmediate response! E. Rod.
the resister getting hot is normal. as to what the mc2100 has going on with it I am not sure.
Thanks. Great video. Do you know if the motor feedback will work as it should by using this pwm module for speed control
I have several videos on hooking up the tach input to the MC2100
Do you have information for Digital Concepts controllers used on Proform equipment? They look robust like the MC2000 and 2100 units.
Contact me through my website and email me some pix of the board with close ups of the connections.
@@dazecars Website called up Outlook for contacting which I don't use. I'm on AOL. Couldn't get email address.
@@jaspermcconnell6417 My website doesn't direct your computer to open outlook it just provides an address and your computer opens that address in what ever platform the settings in your computer direct it to. In your case the computer settings are for outlook.
I have a Johnson Fitness control board (JDYF14PL REVd) and can't figure out to control it with a PWM. Where do I find the pin-outs?
First look at the control panel board. Some times the board in the control panel is labeled and you can trace the wires back.
Its hard to see in the video is the black dc power wire from A+ terminal running into the large ferrite choke then to motor?
Yes the + needs to go though the choke
Great video man. I learned alot. I have a treadmill with with a 3.8hp motor and mc-2100ls-30rev controller. That is what is labeled on the board. The tag says mc2100lts-30. I am going to convert it into a lamb walker and have eliminated the large display and all that. I am going to use the same pwm with the dial you used. Can't seem to find which motor choke I need though. Any advise? Also is this motor reversible? Thinking about putting in a 3 position 6 pole switch to be able to run it both directions. Thanks again man. Great video!
You can get the choke on eBay search "Treadmill choke" Just know that people don't know what they have and think transformers and chokes are interchangeable because they look almost the same, but they are not. To know which one is actually being listed look at the wires coming out of it. if it has 2 it is a choke if it has 4 or more it is a transformer. Most of theses motors are reversible but you need to test it first by hand spinning it backwards. If it feels about the same forwards and backward then yes it is reversible simply by switching polarity. Keep in mind the choke needs to go between the power supply and the switch so that it is always on the positive wire and putting it after your direction switch would only put it on the positive wire in one direction.
Nice video, I used it to shop for a better controller than an SCR set up. I went with a used MC-2000 from Ebay. The wiring is pretty straight forward but when powering it up only the 15V and SPD SIG Leds light up. Rotating the pot (200K) does nothing to the motor but the SPD SIG Led does dim. I know the motor (2.44 HP) is good as I had it set up with an SCR controller at first but it couldn't keep up with the load I was putting it under. I'm using it for a woodworking lathe. With the SCR it would repeatedly pulse between full on and off. Did I get a bricked controller or am I missing something else here? Thanks Dude!
Couple things, first is sounds like you have a cheep SCR. I use am currently using SCR controllers to power a large motor on my metal lathe, a medium motor on my metal mill, and a medium motor on my band saw. I have tried lots of different SCR units and the cheep ones are horrible in fact I have only found one good one, but that good one IMHO is better than any controller that comes in the treadmill as long as you use an AC choke and a DC choke to clean power spikes. There is nothing wrong with the PWM boards that come in treadmills and they can be a fantastic option. The reason I like SCR better is they are easy to use, very customizable, more robust than a PWM and produce way less heat. SCR voltage controllers have a bad reputation because people buy the cheapest one they can and then they don’t use chokes to clean high and low end power spikes. This results in pore performance, rough starts, and reduced Motor life, but all those things are avoidable. My favorite part about SCR is you can customize it to your application. My band saw had a max RPM from the factory that was quite a bit slower than the treadmill motor I put on it. Had I just put the treadmill motor on band saw, there was a chance the speed adjust could have been turned up too much which could have been disastrous and dangerous. By putting limiting resister in series with my potentiometer, my max speed is the max speed of the original motor. That is much harder to do with the PWM at least with the ones that come in treadmills. Second how do you have yore treadmill motor geared to your lathe. HP means almost nothing (I just did a video on this) What is the Max RPM rating listed on your motor, and is your 2.44HP continuous or peek? Your motor may not be up to the task with out some pulley reduction. Most treadmill motors are lower torque and higher RPM (which gives them a higher HP number because (torque X RPM)/5252 = HP. So changing your pulley configuration could be the solution. As to your MC-2000 controller it sounds like the board you purchased is not functioning properly. The only thing I can think for you to check is the soft start, make sure you turn the knob all the way down and then back up again. Keep in mind that not all potentiometers are configured the same way and the H and L terminals may be reversed. If that is the case turning the nob clockwise would slow it down and counterclockwise would speed it up. I hope that helps, let me know if I can be of further assistance.
@@dazecars You video on upgrading to a better controller influenced my decision to move away from the cheap SCR controller, thats when I got the 2000 controller. AC power in to the correct inputs- check, DC power out to the motor and correct polarity- check, potentiometer wired correctly- probably check, there are no labels on the pot. I tried rotating from both ends of pot limits, turning off the power for each try just to see how it reacted. Turning the pot clockwise the SPD SIG led dims out, when turning the pot CCW it doesn't affect the SPD SIG, it stays out throughout the whole rotation.
I watched your video for determining torque on a motor and understand what you are saying. The specs on the motor I'm working on are not complete, it's rated at 2.44 Hp (no continuous HP listed) with a speed of 3800 rpm so it has 3.4 ft/lb of torque and it's set up with a 4 step pulley on both the motor and lathe.
@@vectionnoitcev2836 If there is no “max HP rating” The 2.44 is continuous. That should be plenty of motor and the gear ratio should make it even better. Sounds like the SCR you ditched was a cheap one and that the board you replaced it with is bad. A potentiometer is never labeled and the only way to tell what you have is to put a meter on it and check the resistance. The middle terminal is always W. By trying it both directions you eliminated the potentiometer as the problem. I am sorry that you inferred from my video that an MC-2000 or MC-2100 is better than a GOOD SCR. What I said in my video was an SCR was better than the MC-2 and MC-60 and when you get an MC-2000 or a MC-2100 "you have options" As far as power production a good quality SCR and an MC-2100 will preform about the same. It just depends on what you are doing, how you want to control it and if you need to limit max speed.
@@dazecars Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I've got two machines I'm using the treadmill motors the other being a 2 x 72 belt sander. That one also I changed from the cheap SCR to the one you designed, so far it's doing much better but still has a tendency to stutter when running at higher speeds. I'm attributing that to worn brushes and a dirty commutator. Even though it seems to be a common motor I'm having a hard time finding brushes for it...
👍
Hello. I enjoy your stuff a lot. I have a SS 90 control board from a True 500 treadmill. I assume I will need a PWM but not sure which connections from the board to use and/or where to connect on the PWM. Any suggestions? Thanks much.
Not all boards are easily hackable. I do not have information on that board
@@dazecars Thank you for your response. The original control board is really beefy so it would be great to utilize it, but I will probably just go the SCR route. Thanks!
wish I could have been more help
Hello. I just picked a 2100 board, without the transformer that powers the logic side of things. Can you tell me what voltage yours outputs on the low voltage side? Thanks for the great rundown!
it’s a 16v transformer.
Daze. I have a Lower Motor Control Board Controller 8130201 MEG4LF-1E. Have you had any experience modifying this board for use on any DIY projects? I have all the components and wiring off the treadmill with all wiring. Any help on the proper wiring to accommodate a PWM signal generator would be appreciated. thanks
email me through my website of what you have paying special attention to the wiring harness connections and I will see what if anything I can do.
Good morning, I have a problem with my treadmill Proform 755 that has an MC-2100B controller card, the problem is that when I give it the order to start, the maximum speed goes and I have to stop the treadmill. What could be the problem if you can't control the speed? It only goes at maximum speed, it is impossible to use. The failure started when I moved it from one room to another, opened the treadmill and found the card full of dust and dirt.
Assuming it is not something in the console control panel (which is a possible cause) It is likely the the transistor on the heatsink next to the rectifier. This transistor is the smallest part on the heat sink second from the right. Sometimes when this part fails it allows full power with no switching. Often times when this part goes bad it damages the MOSFET (part all the way to the left on the heat sink) so you should always replace them both at the same time.
I got a reebok treadmill it has a MC70 controller board and no choke but looks like it can directly mount to a potentiometer, but not sure what size? How do i know what size? Is this controller any good it is 20 years old but worked great in the treadmill. looks like on the board I can adjust torque and top speed?
based on other boards that use a potentiometer a 5K is probably about right but a 2K on some boards is a little better I would get both and try it. Its a good board and will get it done just make sure to use the choke.
Do you have any videos on the more complex board (or one similar to it) you showed at the end? I have one collecting dust in my shop, and I'd like to try and use it instead of just tossing it.
no I do not
@@dazecars oh. Well, thanks for the time to respond on a year old video. The board I have has QQ-2061 listed as the model number if you have any leads on something like that. I've come up with nothing so far in my searches.
👍
Very nice . Im converting to treadmill motor. How can you tell which board you have ? Mine doesn't look like any of the ones you show.
It will be written on the board somewhere or there will be a sticker. If it doesn't look anything like any of the boards I sho it's likely not easily hackable.
Dave love all your videos. Can you help me locate the wiring diagram for an Aerobics pro plus board # 9501001? Have the PWM but not sure which wire is the signal wire and which supplies voltage . Board seems to work properly but obviously need the correct wiring to get the motor to spin. Seems to me it is very close to the MC-2100 board.
contact me through my website and send pix. I will see what I can do but no promises. Also look at the control panel board if you still have it. Some times the board in the control panel is labeled and you can trace the wires back.
@@dazecars will do
👍
I have a md030617 seems like the PWM can plug into aswell.
contact me through my website
Daze, if my 2100 didn’t come with the transformer and has not place to plug one in - does that mean it runs ok without one?
I’m speaking of the one I sent you a diagram of the other day.
Thanks
I have seen three kinds of 2100. one like in my video with an external transformer, one with a large transformer soldered directly to the board and one with a small transformer soldiered directly to the board. the transformer is required to power the PWM signal generator.
Great video, thabk you for posting great info. The one problem i find and getbpretty frustrated with is where the hell do i find these ac and dc chokes lol. If they dont come with the machine i i just forgo them because idk how toncalculate andnconfigure one to make myself or to even buy the right one online. Anyway, thabks a ton, helped me much
Easy fix, go the DIY option th-cam.com/video/sYjkQvUSths/w-d-xo.html
So I have my lathe with the mc2100 board up and running ,thanks to your info. Now I'm doing another project but I have an alt 6330a board and I'm not sure I can control this one with just a pwm controller. Any knowledge of these boards?
Glad you were able to use the info! Contact me through my website and send me some pix of the 6330a and I will see if I can find a hack. If not a properly set up SCR is a cost effective way to go. In fact I will be uploading a video next week comparing the MC-2100 to a properly configured SCR.
hi david, well i couldnot not post my question here while having a compressor 150 liters looking for motor.
i have used my treadmill motors for various things but not a compressor-single head. neither seen any body did that.
so, what do you think about this possibility? home use not daily use. thanks dear
Unless I am missing something, I don't really see an advantage. An AC motor would be more efficient than a comparable DC motor powered with AC converted to DC. The reason to use a DC motor is variable speed and there is no reason for that on a compressor. I would try and find an AC motor with similar specs to the one you are replacing.
only reason is price. o get dc almost for free as it is not appreciated at junck yards. induction motors are more pricey
👍
thank you so much for great info i have the last board that you talked about but it is little bit different it is MC 2100LTS-30 does it need a choke or not? please your help will be greatly appreciated thank you in advance !
A choke is not required when using a PWM. Doesn't hurt to run one but it is not required like when you use an SCR
Hi DazeCars,
With the knowledge you share in your videos I've successfully converted a JET Wood Lathe to a treadmill motor and have now powered my rotary dirt sifter with one. In both cases I'm still using the original treadmill power supplies and controllers, and, also the user interface panel. Using the panel has the additional benefit of allowing me to monitor my heart rate. 😊
Wondering if you have ever modified the speed of a motor by adjusting the potentiometers on the board. The manual for the PROFORM 520X has instructions for calibrating various functions of the machine including the speed.
I ask because the speed of the lowest setting is slightly too fast for my dirt sifter and slowing it down mechanically by changing pulley diameters would be pretty difficult.
Thanks again for the great videos and content.
Jay
glad my channel has helped!! I have not done anything with treadmill control panels due to their size and because of the limitations of it being designed for a treadmill (soft start and other treadmill specific features). Even though challenging the best option for low end speed is ALWAYS gearing as it allows for more torque through the entire RPM range.
Awesome Thank you for sharing this info!
Question: Can reverse be added to this circuit when using the MC-2100 board?
Need reverse in a lathe operation when backing out a tap.
Yes it can. Next weeks video is on wiring a forward/reverse switch. Be very carful using that MC2100 on your lathe as they are not very robust. You may want to also watch last weeks video th-cam.com/video/yMkW2SXl_sA/w-d-xo.html
Which pwm do you like better or recommend? Great video btw, doing this build with a 2100 board right now.
Functionality they both do the same job but I prefer the knob over the buttons.
@@dazecars Thanks. I ordered the knob controller.
👍
I think I have the mc1200 and I want to do away with the counsel board do to its size. The problem I have is my flat plug has 8 wires. Can you tell me what colors are my "H" "W" "L"? The colored wires are black, orange, red, blue, yellow, green, purple, and brown. I took a close up picture of the plug and wires but I see no way to attach it,
If it’s an mc2100 you can’t use a potentiometer. You need a signal generator. This video has all the information you need. Programming XY KPWM & ZK PP1K PWM Signal Generator For Use With an MC2100 Treadmill Motor Controller
wow great video.... I want to make a linear actuator using a thread mill motor... what is the minimum speed with this configuration
It is not that simple. Depends on the drag being applied by what the motor is attached to, the power supply being used, the design of the motor, and gear ratio.
Great video 👍 iv got a MC 2000 board do I run power through the LG2 white and the LG1 blue direct and then connect a speed control unit i I need help with this please
there si a lot more information here dazecars.com/dazed/variable.html
Can I get a part number regarding the power supply you used with the mc2100 at the end of the video . Thank you in advance
Not sure what you mean by power supply. if you are after the signal generator, this is the PWM signal generator for the 2100 I am using amzn.to/3z3ivu3
@@dazecars the transformer sorry .
@@jstc89 Its a 16V class 2 transformer like this one www.ebay.com/itm/403398903466?hash=item5dec72c6aa:g:y-kAAOSwEqlh2Ru2&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJiM7SVzN2tj2Jp5eN0btQa2EeEONRdC2E4hL3onQye1MI%2B2bbxEXk1qNg8P5rZlRXvgLyjVGZSdj6ZsgdWRYRpyJRjPeG9EaucPD%2F2kIGr%2BMWlQWNALPIR2Q8dej%2FrNwtewXwGHV00Xl45Nt%2FR3neuzZRgnofVlROomI8rdfzzw57PjECMOOgVnPFI4WKUMj5bCk69i6XRj6nvovoNA1t8%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR87ljIWNYQ
Brilliant work. Thank you for uploading. I have a MC-2100 which i am going to get a PWM controller for (to fix my treadmill actually!). According to the schematic, the PWM controller will be powered by the MC-2100's 12V rail.. Then the MC-2100 expects a PWM signal in the range of 0V to 5V. Just wondering does the PWM controller's duty cycle effectively "step down" to this 5V or is it spitting out +12V?
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. That is a very good question, and something I never thought to look into. Most modern applications are looking for a 5V input as that has become the industry standard due to USB. I would assume its putting out 5V. Even if it is not because of the slow pulsing required to drive the MC-2100 even at 12V it would effectively be a lot less than 12V. In other words your MC-2100 uses PWM technology to take a roughly 100V DC current and apply it to a motor at a "lower voltage", not by actually stepping the voltage down but by applying the full voltage but then switching on and off quickly to “reduce” it. The same would be true of the PWM controller. It is pulsing on and off at a slower rate and should be putting out less voltage. You now naw have me curious. I will go out and set one up with a meter and see if I can get an output reading. I will report back.
I have some answers. First of all let me say that was very astute of you to notice the voltage difference on the spec sheet, I missed it!! I went out to my shop, plugged in a 2100 board, a PWM, and used my multi meter to run some tests. You are correct that the 12V going in on the PMW is also what is coming out as a signal BUT as I predicted the PWM action reduces that voltage. At 100% duty cycle the voltage is 12V. At 45% it drops to 5V. I too looked at the schematic and the 0-5V is what is coming out of the control board and is not necessarily what the MC-2100 can handle. Obviously it works in that range but I think it can handle more voltage without any problem. I know lots of guys have run this type of PMW on a 2100 for years without issue so I don't think the higher voltage is a problem especially because it is just a signal wire. With that said there are a couple of options for a 5V fix. You could hook up a 5V voltage regulator (7805) between the board and the PMW to step the voltage down OR there is a 3 prong connecter next to the main connector that also has 5V output. I plugged into that 5V output on the 2100 and it powered the PMW without issue and had a range from 0-5V depending on duty cycle. With yours actually being in a treadmill I am sure the 5V output is being used but you could probably tap into it. Let me know if I can be of any further help.
@@dazecars Thank you for the response and sorry for the delay in getting back to you (Yt didn't notify me for some reason)... Yes I think that because there is no draw (large current) I do not think the 2100 cares. All it wants is signal on/off at the required frequency. I'd say it could operate at even larger voltages (but I won't try)... Many thanks for measuring this and it makes me feel much more comfortable applying the 12v PWM to the 2100
👍
I had to replace one of the Mofett and after soldering it on then plugging everything back in, the red light will just flash while pressing start. Any ideas?
I would be willing to bet it is flashing 4 times. If so the board is completely shot.
I got a treadmill with a MC 80 board in it. It looks very much like the MC 60. I have tested one of them boards ?
I have not messed with one but it should hook up just like the MC2000 with the 3 prong connector being HWL
Great info, in a great video with well spoken narration. Thanks for that.
I have a question: I have a treadmill motor and controller, the MC2100 you referenced here. My plan is to use these for a lathe upgrade, but getting braking and reverse switching designed so as to not damage the motor or the controller does not seem to be readily available info. Do you have this setup on yours, and is there a schematic or some diagram to indicate the setup? Or at least some info about this?
Thanks
On my lathe I use an SCR voltage controller but there is no reason you shouldn't be able to use the treadmill controller. There is no braking on mine the way it is set up, and when I turn it off it comes to a stop after a few seconds. As for reversing direction that is as simple as reversing the wires going into the motor. I do it on mine with a DPDT switch that is off in the middle. (I use that switch all the time when threading) The only improtant thing is that the motor is not miving when you go the other direction. There is more info and pix on how to reverse direction on my web page writeup. Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have more questions. dazecars.com/dazed/variable.html
@@dazecars Thanks for your reply, I agree the reversing is very straight forward. What I'm really wanting is the braking, and motors have inherent braking by just shorting the red and black together while the rotor is spinning. But that is a very abrupt stop and I was looking for some resistor values that can make it a bit more gentle. I've seen control units from KB Electronics that do it, but I wanted to adapt it to the MC2100 since I have one that is working perfectly. I've done a bit of rooting around on the interwebs, I'll keep at it and hopefully find something. Thanks again.
@@jameshisself9324 Interesting. I will mock some things up and see what I can come up with. I have a couple ideas but will need to do some testing.
@@jameshisself9324 After some testing I know some things BUT I am not an electrical engineer I am just a hobbiest so some of my finding ar a best educted guess. First you are correct a dead short is way to abrupt and would be hard on the motor. I also know that between 10-20 ohms is a good resistance to get decent braking BUT I didn't have a high enough wattage resister to get it working consistently. The problem is these motors (at max) are on average 1600 watts to drive them. I know that as a generator they will not produce the same output as it would take to drive them. In other words if 90V and 18A gets you 4000 RPM then once that power is eliminated that same 4000 RPM will produce something less than 90v and 18A but I am not sure how much less. Either way you need a resistor that will handle the max wattage even though it will rapidly drop as the motor slows down and you want a resistor that can handle the braking repeatedly so shooting for one that is a minimum of 1600 watts (watts = V * A) would be a good starting point BUT I would air on the side of bigger. The other issue is I found is that an MC-2100 board does not like the power to the motor cut and then reestablished (I was using a DPDT switch to go from powering to braking) and using that switch overloaded the 2100 board and I fried it. (small price to pay for some knowledge) If I was going to use a braking resister I think I would drive the motor with the more robust SCR voltage controller although I did not test one because I ran out of resisters. 😁 Interestingly enough if you look on eBay for resistors with 1500W-2000W and in the 10-20ohm range they are called "braking resistors"
@@dazecars Wow, great research. Sorry to hear you sacrificed a controller for this.
It sounds like you did what I was afraid to do! I've been researching mostly through documentation I could find, which has been very limited.
It sounds like you are saying that just disconnecting and reconnecting the motor from the controller while running will damage the controller? I was under the impression they could handle that. Again, just internet research not my own testing. I don't have extra controllers to sacrifice.
It sounds as though the MC2100 is not suitable for a lathe then. I've got very old EE skills (doing SW now as it's more lucrative) so I would love to tackle the challenge of getting this to work with the controller I already have. But I don't want to start collecting treadmills so this might be the only unit I get and usually I can research enough online to have a predictable enough outcome to avoid sacrificial testing for other projects. This one has been more challenging and now I wonder if it is just not possible with this controller. Your excellence research and testing of the SCR units might be the way I need to go.
Hello. I'm looking to control a treadmill motor to drive a pottery wheel. I need a slide control to use in a foot pedal, which means a potentiometer. I think it might be possible to find a pwm with a constant frequency output that is controlled by a potentiometer. Any ideas about this?
When it comes to PWM all of them that I have seen are completely digital and one with a potentiometer would be analog. The output would be digital but it would be hard to get into range the 20 hz. Most just have three ranges changed by pins. An SCR would be easy for the potentiometer BUT not have the constant speed input.
Do you think you could use a cell phone with a pulse generator app download and if you could how might one go about connecting it to the board? Thank you
I am just speculating here but you would probably need some sort of bluetooth interfase to conect the phone to the board. It would be way more expensive than the simple little PWM I use in the video.
Great video and very informative. I have a mc80 Although it does have the LWH connection the board seems to be very small compared to the boards you have on this video. Is it a good board to use or should I keep looking for one of the boards you have on this video?
The MC-80 is half way between the MC-60 and the MC-2000. Not a bad way to go as long as the motor is not too large. As far as the boards, in my video the MC-2000 and MC-2100 are good boards but IMHO not any better or worse than a properly setup SCR system. I say that because of your comment, “or should I keep looking for one of the boards you have on this video?” SCR controllers have a bad reputation because so many people have used cheep ones and not done anything to clean the power. I like SCR controllers and use them on all my equipment because they are easier to use, less expensive, and more robust than a PWM type treadmill board and all the issues that give an SCR a bad reputation can be eliminated. SO I guess to answer your question if it was me and I had the MC-80 I would use it. If it burns up then switch to an SCR. I hope that helps
Hi, my lifefitness 9500hr next gen treadmill electrics recently got fried. It has a large AC motor, says three phase. Can you recommend any controller to run tge treadmill as lifefitness no longer provide support.thanks lee
I can point you in the correct direction but I do not have specifics for you. A VFD could be used to have variable speed for that motor and could control the basic on off and speed function of the treadmill BUT there would be no safety features like the magnet clip shut off or soft start. in other words if it was going faster than the user and the machine threw said user there would not be the magnet clip shut off also with the elimination of soft start If you shut it off at a high speed and then turned it back on without changing that speed it would resume at the higher speed.
@@dazecars thanks for your help, appreciate
👍
Hey, Just wondering if you are familiar with a TM5917 board? Its the one I have. Similar to the ones you show here. Since we last spoke I purchased a tiny push button PWM and connected it to the 4 pin connector on my TM5917 controller. 20Hz did nothing. Just wondering if you can you suggest any other frequencies to try?
the 'Signal' LED on the board flashes fast when I connect the PWM which makes me think I have some of it correct. Just connecting one lead and the LED flashes so I guess there is a common and maybe it can work with just 3 of the 4 connected. It is possible of course that the board has a fault. Or soft start is an issue because my cheap tiny PWM does not have an on off switch. I unlugged it, then a second or so later plugged it back in again, but no motor spin.
soft start is easy to overcome by turning the signal generator all the way down and then back up again. The flashing LED makes me think the hz is correct but other than that I don't see any obvious solutions.
Hey Daze, do you know what type of connector is used for the PWM plug?
I just use the one that came with the treadmill. Not sure what it is called.
I purchased an MC2100LTS-50w board. The board did not come with an 8 pin male connector. Do you or anyone else have one I can purchase. I also need an appropriate sized DC choke. Thanks Jerry
I have one I can probably sell you. Email me through my website and also please send pix of the board you have.
Belo trabalho em seus videos sobre o scr tenho um com potenciometro de chave e também se for possivel informe tenho
uma placa mc60 esta funcionando somente veloc. alta o que pode ser ? o resistor controlador de velocidade queimou por alta temperatura ? (Brasil)
If the MC60 is only producing one speed and it is fast, the switching component that turns off and on to regulate the power has likely burned out in the on position. Not sure which component that is however.
@@dazecars ok obrigado vou ver o componente que faz esta função de comutação
👍@@aparecidosilva2653
Can you run a MC2100LT REV board and the motor you are controlling off of 220V ?
Or is it just gonna smoke it?
Reason I'm asking is I'm converting my wood lathe over to a treadmill motor and I know that the 220V will give me more and consistent power.
I don't know if it will smoke it or not. I have not seen anything on the spec sheet that would indicate 220 capability. Yes 220 makes an AC motor run more consistantly but if will not have the same result with a DC motor. I wouldn't even mess with trying to run it 220
Hey! Have you ever heard of a B017d control board? I am attempting to use one on and a treadmill motor on my lathe. I am not super electronically inclined though and was hoping to find a write up using that board instead of an MC board, but have had no luck! Thanks for making such great videos
I was not familiar with it so I looked up a pic and that looks similar to the 2100. I would guess it relies on a PWM signal just like the 2100 but I can not say for sure. Was there a pin out sheet inside the treadmill? if not do you still have the treadmill touch panel? often times the circuit board on the touch panel is labeled and you can trace the wires back to determine proper hookup.
@@dazecars Unfortunately I got the unit with no control panel (it was damaged and thrown out), so I am going in a little blind. The plug to the control board does have labels next to each pin. I will see if they are similar to the pins on the mc2100. Thanks!
@@dazecars it has 5 wires coming out of the controller plug. One is labeled "GND" another id labeled 12v, so those ones are easy! There is also an "SW" "RXD" and "TXD". I was hoping to find a diagram online for this treadmill but no luck so far!
@@dazecars I have just tested a PWM connected to GMD, +12v, and the RXD and TXD to the PWM signal. No luck! I guess ill buy an scr
👍
Excellent job great video and exactly right 👍
Thank you!!
Had another question!! Ventilation. When I install the components in a box, metal or plastic, do I need to allow for ventilation?
You might have missed one of my previous replies as I mention that exact thing "wood shop changes things, you want it free from dust but you also want it to have cooling. I would mount it in an electrical box with venting"
@@dazecars I saw the dust Free part. But missed the venting! I'm guessing passive?
That’s the problem. In a treadmill you have a fairly open cavity for heat to dissipate. You also have the fan on the motor circulating air in the treadmill. No it’s not blowing directly on the board as it’s primary function is motor cooling but the moving air is going to still help. In your case a small fan is probably a good idea BUT you need it to be low dust so I’m not sure the best option for your application.
@@dazecars Maybe I will add a small fan to keep air moving.
👍
Very informative. Nice Intro. 😉
Thanks! 😃
Newbie to electronics here--i have the exact board and treadmill motor with 4 wires. Can i leave everything wired the way it is originally and ONLY change thre controller to the pwm controller OR do i have to switch around certain wires and which ones? Thx
First of all being a “newbie” be very careful AC can kill and there are places on the board that if touched while the board is on, could shock you. With that said removing the main controller cable and correctly connecting the PWM in its place will allow you to control the motor speed without the treadmill head unit. As far as the rest of the wiring, the way it is wired for the treadmill is how it needs to be wired for use outside the treadmill UNLESS there is an incline motor. That would change things.
@@dazecars Thank you. Yes, there is an incline motor. Advice?
The four wires going to the motor allow an overheat situation to interrupt power to motor. Usually the two wires for overheat are blue and the red/black wires are motor power. Most people do not use the blue wires unless the motor is noted to get hot during their normal use. My guess would be if you run the motor too slow to allow the fan to cool or at or near max HP for the motor would justify it. I'm not sure how they wire to the board originally.
@@jaspermcconnell6417 the blue wires take no extra effort to use so I always recommend you hook them up if your motor has them. They are designed to cut the AC power coming in, in an overheat situation. On an MC-60 or MC-2000 you would use the blue wires as the connection between the switch and the board. In other words the hot AC wire (black) goes into the power switch and one of the blue wires comes out of the switch as the hot. The second blue wire connects to the hot in on the board. The result is power comes from the wall to the switch, if the switch is on power flows through the first blue wire to the thermal switch in the motor and then out on the other blue wire to the board. If the motor get s to hot power is cut. The same wiring is true for some early MC-2100 boards. Later ones however have two extra terminals, next to the AC in on the board, that are there to connect the blue wires or a circuit breaker.
Hi I’ve bought the Zk pp1k to run my mc2100e treadmill board and motor. But first time switching on it blew the fuse in the supply plug. After trying some of the adjust with the buttons at certain stages of adjustment the motor will try and run for a split second with sparks flying of the brushes area do you have any ideas what going on or do you know if there are any wiring instructions anywhere that I can work from. I set it at 20 hz the power %buttons do nothing I’ve tried the other setting you get when you hold down the set button and the motor went pop again. I thought this was going to be simple as al the vids I’ve looked at make it seem like a couple of minutes work I’m getting to the stage where it all going in the bin and I will have to go for three phase not what I want to do but I need to get a motor running for my new belt grinder I’ve make. If you can give me any advice it would be very much appreciated. Phil
Sounds you set up the PWM correctly but have a bad MOSFET of the board. There is a switching transister on the board called a MOSFET. It switches on and off at varring rates. This on off pattern it what adjusts voltage. Some times when a MOSFET goes bad it will stay in the fully on position so you are getting full volts all at once. hence the sparks then the board senses a problem and shuts off. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
@@dazecars Hi thanks for that I will check it out I think I have another one of these boards I will find it and try that. Thanks again
👍
Very informative , Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi very informative. I have an exercise treadmill machine Nordictrack A2250 with a mc 2100 board.
I changed the mosfet in the board once because was shorted and installed back on in the machine, and as soon I started the treadmill it got shorted again. so I changed the mosfet the second time and this time I removed the Treadmill Motor Belt and started the treadmill with the new mosfet in the mc 2100 board and this time did not blow up the mosfet but as soon I installed the motor belt back again and I started the treadmill and this time it did blow up the mosfet again.
somebody told me to check the flyback diode if its one in the board, but I don"t know if it has one but if it does I don"t know how to troubleshoot the flyback diode.
Any ideas? thank you
the treadmill walking belt its find. it does not fill hard to turn it. it fills free motion.
it does have a flyback diode but that is likely not the problem. There is a smaller component next to the rectifier. This is similar to a MOSFET and should always be changed the same time as the other. Sometimes they fail in the "on" position and that will cause other components to fail.
@@dazecars Thank you for your quick respond
with out a diagram for the mc 2100 board it"s hard to identify the part names.
so the smaller component next to the rectifier (mosfet) but when I search on the internet for part replacement by the serial numbers printed in the component it can not find it,
any advice?
@@MORJOYES the rectifier is the largest component on the heat sink all the way to the right. The smaler component to the left of the rectifier is the one I am talking about. I got some off of eBay.
@@dazecars Is there anyway you can give me the part name or part number to look up on eBay? Thank you
@@MORJOYES S4025L here is an amazon link amzn.to/3TL8lYS
do you have a video on the mc1618dls ?
No I do not
Hi I just picked up a mc-2000, I hooked everything up No lights come on what would the problem, most likely be, Please help
hard to say. Could be one ow the switching transisters attached to the heat sink at one end or the bridge rectifier allso attached to the heat sink at the other end.
Is there somewhere on the board that says what type of control it is, MC-whatever?
Not all treadmill control boards have an MC designation. It depends on the manufacturer. The board model number is usually on the actual board. Also there is often a sticker on the heat sink. The 4 I talk about in the video are all clearly marked so if there is not a clear mark with one of those numbers then it is not one of the boards I talk about in the video.
I’m sorry to be lazy…but do you have a video showing how you put it all together to power an installed motor on something like a drill press? You mention other items on your bench and I’m not sure I understand what they are or what their purpose is or how they connect in the layout. Thank you!
I have tons of videos on the topic, this palaylist has 60 th-cam.com/play/PLg4j6XzBdSY_83r86goaHonVUjoKsnIJM.html I would need to know what type of power supply you plan on using to give you a specific video.
Thank you! I think I found the one I was looking for. Ordered my parts today. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
glad I could help
nice job mate😍
Thanks 😁
Great video
Thanks!
Grate video grate teaching.thanks
Glad I could help
Thank you for replies to my comments on the "blue wire..." video. I have a MC-70 board. Any thoughts?
I am happy to help. At this point replying to all comments is still manageable so as long as I am able I will continue to do so. I have no hands on experience with the MC70, but like the other early MC boards MC60, MC80, and MC2000 it is an early SCR type controller. Should be usable. the only possible issues are soft start and a lack of a fine speed control.
I own a treadmill with the PCB 2100 , it run then it stop suddenly, what could be the issue?
It is probably a bad MOSFET
have you done a video about a mc-2000E?
no but I would assume it would be very similar to the mc2000
Hi where do you put the choke on the board.
The DC choke goes in line on the + output of the board between the + output and the + wire going into the motor. An AC choke goes between the two power wires coming into the board and the AC inputs
@@dazecars thanks for letting me know.
👍
I would like to send a picture of the board that I got today with my free treadmill but I don't see an option to send photo not sure what type looks real similar to the one you use with the plug in wiring it also has 2 ferrite chokes on the board but I can't find the H W L pole
the board has 2 transformers not chocks like I said 1 has 2 black wires and 1 has 2 red wires
@@erniegray3500 email me through my website
@@dazecars done
👍
What does it mean to "clean up the power"? And what happens when you do or don't do that?
dirty power has surges and spikes. Running a motor with dirty power will shorten the motors life.
Thank you for the video. Biggest help so far. Motor will come on but pulsates.
Want to use for my treadmill. Everything good except push buttons on monitor board
Want to use board for emergency cut off.
Treadmill Nordic track C2050 about 15 years old
Motor board number MC-2100 REV B V#37376
As you suggested Got a ZK-PP1K PULSE GENERATOR MOTOR RUNS BUT PULSATES. SPEED CONTROL WORKS ON GENERATOR
BUT MOTOT STILL PULSATES. UNHOOKED ALL WIRES ON MONITOR BOARD LEAADING FROM MOTOR BOARD.
STUMPED. Any suggestions? Do not want to get rid of good treadmill because of electrics. Just know it can be fixed if find out how.
Thank you for any help
I wish I could tell you exactly what the issue is but I don't know. I am a hobbiest when it comes to electronics and I understand basic circuits and workarounds but am not a professional so in your case I am not sure what part is not functioning properly causing your issue. Sorry
And a follow up question. What size PWM?
the one in my video is a XY-PWM1 PWM Signal Generator