Austin I’d really like to add a little tip for you guys when you’re cutting a saddle, start your saddle at your longest points, do those points first with the torch body parallel to the pipe you are saddling, Then, with your torch, body still parallel with your pipe that your saddling cut the bottom parts of your saddle, keeping the torch tip body parallel with the pipe, your saddling to, you have to think of that pipe as an imaginary line and the flame of your torch needs to run parallel to that pipe, if you have thick pipe to saddle, reduce the longest points of your saddle by at least the thickness of the pipe and don’t put big angle cuts on the long points, I’m sure this sounds confusing for some people, but it does help it reduces the amount of grinding you will have to do by a lot, this was taught to me by a pipeliner working in the ammonia refrigeration industry, he could do it without laying it out. He did it only by eye, and he was really good at it.
That will take some practice but will do the job easier. You worked it out good Austin. Thanks for sharing with us, enjoyed learning right along with you. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
‘Grind till it fits’ reminds me of when I was a beginning welder, my grinding skill had to be exemplary. Now as a better, more experienced welder, my grinding skills have gotten a bit Rusty. Love your content Austin!
ive been welding on heavy equipment for almost 6 years now for a shop and ive just got the equipment to start mobile welding. can u do a long form video on the paper work side of mobile welding. insurance, taxes, llc or independent contractor. I'd appriciat it
That's cool the thing that you used to trace your cut That's very neat and how your last video you told us experience is key and it really is because it helps us learn things. 🙂🙂🙂
Also just saw how you decide you know if something is no good no more like your gloves I think it's cool trying to save money and it helps keep that mentality. 👍👍
Excellent first try Austin . Getting your sharpie to tuck up to the angle iron in one of those notches would help as it would be more square to to the scribe guide and less likely to wander . It is difficult to keep it square to the pipe but with a little practice you will find a technique that will be easier for ones self . Like welding ? My first try with this tool was on 6"sch80 and got it to with in about a 1/4" . It is important to accurately position the adjustable scribe guide for wall thickness and lock it in with the provided locking nut there. It will do multiple pipe sizes up to 16 inch . It to helps to cut a square kerf line . This tool gets you very close with minimal extra cutting and grinding . if one has to back bevel to fit once you have completed the back bevel the top of that bevel inside the pipe can be used as a cut line ,cutting from the inside out . If one has to do more saddle cuts there after making a template of the first one would be faster .BART
Boy that little scribe would be handy. The cogen/saw mill I’m welding at currently has a ton of odd pipe sizes for the water and steam system. I spend most of my down time trying to make templates for it all. This would be a slick little tool to keep in the box.
We just got done building a condensor that had 22" opening for the u tube bundle. Of course things like that on vessels, we roll belts out of plate alot more than we use pipe
Even before you started tracing. I was like "LOCK the jam nut". That is why you are off. The bolt rattled in or out from the set point. Thanks for the video
When I run into an odd size or am joining a cut tube to a different sized parent tube I go to tube coping calculator online and print off a template based on my inputs. It’s free and worth every penny. This is only if I’m doing several of the same joint and don’t want to spend a ton of time “walking” the fit in.
There is a trick for 90 degree saddles where you place a ruler/strait edge/square with the ID of the pipe to be saddled on the OD of the straight run pipe. Then you measure from the outer edge of the straight run pipe to the straight edge to get the cut back distance for the saddle. Then you use your eyeball to get the curve. An old timer pipe fitter taught me that trick many years ago.
They are easy to use Curvo Mark is. I liked the "formula" the Ruler and the Square way of calculating. I have NOT used it in 20 years, but I used to. But Make a Template, file it away, write down the size of the Pipes the angles in Degrees. Write down the WALL Thickness as well. If it is ROUND TUBING, put that in to the "note" as well. One can even make a Shop Drawing to file away with the template.
I've noticed you don't make use of plasma cutters at home or on the mobile rig. Is gas cutting superior or just what you know best? I believe your generator/welder will power a plasma cutter so it's a level playing field as to portability. Just curious.
I think with practice, that might be a good method. I have a "Curvo-mark" tool I bought over 40 years ago, it works., the "formula" is easy to grasp. The thing I have never liked about the Curvo Mark tool is the "Wiggly" marking arm. It is especially bad if you try to mark going DOWNHILL. If you start the drawing at the BOTTOM (like it says in the Destructions ) it works better. That lightweight wiggly arm, takes some getting used to. I would make a Faint line with the arm, and then line a wrap around against the faint line and mark it with a SOAPSTONE where it was SMOOTH and easy to SEE!! Once I got a pipe marked accurately, I would MAKE A TEMPLET on some Poster board or some MANILA file folder material. If I knew I was going to need it soon, I would go ahead and transfer it to the HIGH HEAT ASBSETOS Gasket Material, and then I would FILE IT!!! I had a box full of those things. Anytime you can simply go to your FILE and quickly look it up, and WAS READY TO GO, ***** That will ALWAYS be the fastest way, as it calls on your EXPERIENCE*** The HARDER THE JOINT IS, the more important it is to have a TEMPLET. Really if you just make Pipe or Tube gates, and fence, and Barn Trusses from retired or reject Drill Stem, you don't need a gazillion of them. But the HARDER IT IS, *the more important to have that TEMPLATE* I am telling you it is MONEY IN THE BANK to have those!!!! Especially if you have to BID TURNKEY JOBS. I was NEVER successful and getting someone to pay me by the hour. But if "They, want to Furnish the material, just need a labor only bid, I would give them a rate per HOUR. They will have the PIPE FROM HELL and expect you to do a BARGAIN RATE!! Screw that noise!!! BB
Hmm I wonder how much more accurate the scribe line would be if you rounded the standoff screw? Would it make the jig more accurate or inaccurate based on thickness of the pipe? I think it would at least make use especially on the quarter sections easier.
The the adjustable scribe guide was rounded. Its adjustment is critical, pipe must be clean of slag and debris. The sharpie holder must hold the sharpie tight to the angle iron in a notch as seen and tightened so it will not move laterally just up and down
Is it not possible to use a radius scribe to accomplish the same thing? I haven't tried it myself, haven't had a need to...yet. The tool you're using there would be pretty easy to make, speaking as a machinist.
Dangit , I hate them molten bee bees down my gloves. Even when the boss is payin for my gloves I still run them into the ground. Another grest coffee vidya👌
I work in a machine shop/welding shop as a tig welder and machinist and my boss has me only open the oxygen bottles couple turns. But I was taught to open them all the way. Which is the proper way?
Oxygen cylinders are high pressure and have a back-seating valve to prevent the gas from leaking out through the threads on the valve stem. Open them all the way. It is the acetylene tank that only gets opened a little so you can shut it off quickly.
@@quieroverduras that's what I figured. Because that was how I was taught. But I am working in a small shop and the boss told me to just give it couple turns. Because I was opening oxygen all the way and acytelene 2 1/2 turns. I have my own bottles at home and I all ways open the oxygen all the way. But thank you for clarifying that for me. I really appreciate it. I thought I was doing it all wrong at work.
A sideways comment - why use a torch to cut everything when you can use a "Skill Saw" with a metal cutting blade to cut and thus get a cleaner cut? It will only work on straight cuts but that is a lot of your work (besides saddling cuts). They cut faster and make cleaner cuts.
I like the Saddle Calculator app, any size pipe, any angle, any wall thickness, and simple to use.
Austin I’d really like to add a little tip for you guys when you’re cutting a saddle, start your saddle at your longest points, do those points first with the torch body parallel to the pipe you are saddling, Then, with your torch, body still parallel with your pipe that your saddling cut the bottom parts of your saddle, keeping the torch tip body parallel with the pipe, your saddling to, you have to think of that pipe as an imaginary line and the flame of your torch needs to run parallel to that pipe, if you have thick pipe to saddle, reduce the longest points of your saddle by at least the thickness of the pipe and don’t put big angle cuts on the long points, I’m sure this sounds confusing for some people, but it does help it reduces the amount of grinding you will have to do by a lot, this was taught to me by a pipeliner working in the ammonia refrigeration industry, he could do it without laying it out. He did it only by eye, and he was really good at it.
That will take some practice but will do the job easier. You worked it out good Austin. Thanks for sharing with us, enjoyed learning right along with you. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.
‘Grind till it fits’ reminds me of when I was a beginning welder, my grinding skill had to be exemplary. Now as a better, more experienced welder, my grinding skills have gotten a bit Rusty.
Love your content Austin!
ive been welding on heavy equipment for almost 6 years now for a shop and ive just got the equipment to start mobile welding. can u do a long form video on the paper work side of mobile welding. insurance, taxes, llc or independent contractor. I'd appriciat it
That's cool the thing that you used to trace your cut That's very neat and how your last video you told us experience is key and it really is because it helps us learn things. 🙂🙂🙂
White out pin works great
Not a welder but gives me some ideas for wood work, thanks!
Also just saw how you decide you know if something is no good no more like your gloves I think it's cool trying to save money and it helps keep that mentality. 👍👍
Excellent first try Austin . Getting your sharpie to tuck up to the angle iron in one of those notches would help as it would be more square to to the scribe guide and less likely to wander . It is difficult to keep it square to the pipe but with a little practice you will find a technique that will be easier for ones self . Like welding ? My first try with this tool was on 6"sch80 and got it to with in about a 1/4" . It is important to accurately position the adjustable scribe guide for wall thickness and lock it in with the provided locking nut there. It will do multiple pipe sizes up to 16 inch . It to helps to cut a square kerf line . This tool gets you very close with minimal extra cutting and grinding . if one has to back bevel to fit once you have completed the back bevel the top of that bevel inside the pipe can be used as a cut line ,cutting from the inside out . If one has to do more saddle cuts there after making a template of the first one would be faster .BART
Boy that little scribe would be handy. The cogen/saw mill I’m welding at currently has a ton of odd pipe sizes for the water and steam system. I spend most of my down time trying to make templates for it all. This would be a slick little tool to keep in the box.
Thanks for posting and sharing this video, that tool is neat, it looks like a log cabin type of scribbing tool.
We just got done building a condensor that had 22" opening for the u tube bundle. Of course things like that on vessels, we roll belts out of plate alot more than we use pipe
Even before you started tracing. I was like "LOCK the jam nut". That is why you are off. The bolt rattled in or out from the set point. Thanks for the video
Nice video bro been watching you since fay 1
When I run into an odd size or am joining a cut tube to a different sized parent tube I go to tube coping calculator online and print off a template based on my inputs. It’s free and worth every penny. This is only if I’m doing several of the same joint and don’t want to spend a ton of time “walking” the fit in.
There is a trick for 90 degree saddles where you place a ruler/strait edge/square with the ID of the pipe to be saddled on the
OD of the straight run pipe. Then you measure from the outer edge of the straight run pipe to the straight edge to get the cut back distance for the saddle. Then you use your eyeball to get the curve. An old timer pipe fitter taught me that trick many years ago.
Have a chart up to 8" for cut backs
They still do we have some 22 26 28 inch sizes a ton for Columbia gas and drilling rig pipe is always an odd ball size 13 5/8s or 9 /5/8
Must have missed where to buy the template. Thank you .
In the saddling scrib I would use a white out pen cause heat doesn't burn it off like a sharpie will.
If you do alot of odd size pipe you should look into a Curve - O - Mark contour marker. I've been using one since 1983
They are easy to use Curvo Mark is. I liked the "formula" the Ruler and the Square way of calculating. I have NOT used it in 20 years, but I used to. But Make a Template, file it away, write down the size of the Pipes the angles in Degrees. Write down the WALL Thickness as well. If it is ROUND TUBING, put that in to the "note" as well. One can even make a Shop Drawing to file away with the template.
I've noticed you don't make use of plasma cutters at home or on the mobile rig. Is gas cutting superior or just what you know best? I believe your generator/welder will power a plasma cutter so it's a level playing field as to portability. Just curious.
I think with practice, that might be a good method. I have a "Curvo-mark" tool I bought over 40 years ago, it works., the "formula" is easy to grasp. The thing I have never liked about the Curvo Mark tool is the "Wiggly" marking arm. It is especially bad if you try to mark going DOWNHILL. If you start the drawing at the BOTTOM (like it says in the Destructions ) it works better. That lightweight wiggly arm, takes some getting used to. I would make a Faint line with the arm, and then line a wrap around against the faint line and mark it with a SOAPSTONE where it was SMOOTH and easy to SEE!! Once I got a pipe marked accurately, I would MAKE A TEMPLET on some Poster board or some MANILA file folder material. If I knew I was going to need it soon, I would go ahead and transfer it to the HIGH HEAT ASBSETOS Gasket Material, and then I would FILE IT!!! I had a box full of those things. Anytime you can simply go to your FILE and quickly look it up, and WAS READY TO GO, ***** That will ALWAYS be the fastest way, as it calls on your EXPERIENCE*** The HARDER THE JOINT IS, the more important it is to have a TEMPLET. Really if you just make Pipe or Tube gates, and fence, and Barn Trusses from retired or reject Drill Stem, you don't need a gazillion of them. But the HARDER IT IS, *the more important to have that TEMPLATE* I am telling you it is MONEY IN THE BANK to have those!!!! Especially if you have to BID TURNKEY JOBS. I was NEVER successful and getting someone to pay me by the hour. But if "They, want to Furnish the material, just need a labor only bid, I would give them a rate per HOUR. They will have the PIPE FROM HELL and expect you to do a BARGAIN RATE!! Screw that noise!!! BB
Can you use a scribe like a compass used for making
Hmm I wonder how much more accurate the scribe line would be if you rounded the standoff screw? Would it make the jig more accurate or inaccurate based on thickness of the pipe? I think it would at least make use especially on the quarter sections easier.
The the adjustable scribe guide was rounded. Its adjustment is critical, pipe must be clean of slag and debris. The sharpie holder must hold the sharpie tight to the angle iron in a notch as seen and tightened so it will not move laterally just up and down
Bon Boulo 😆😆👍👍
Is it not possible to use a radius scribe to accomplish the same thing? I haven't tried it myself, haven't had a need to...yet. The tool you're using there would be pretty easy to make, speaking as a machinist.
Dangit , I hate them molten bee bees down my gloves. Even when the boss is payin for my gloves I still run them into the ground. Another grest coffee vidya👌
I work in a machine shop/welding shop as a tig welder and machinist and my boss has me only open the oxygen bottles couple turns. But I was taught to open them all the way. Which is the proper way?
Oxygen cylinders are high pressure and have a back-seating valve to prevent the gas from leaking out through the threads on the valve stem. Open them all the way.
It is the acetylene tank that only gets opened a little so you can shut it off quickly.
@@quieroverduras that's what I figured. Because that was how I was taught. But I am working in a small shop and the boss told me to just give it couple turns. Because I was opening oxygen all the way and acytelene 2 1/2 turns. I have my own bottles at home and I all ways open the oxygen all the way. But thank you for clarifying that for me. I really appreciate it. I thought I was doing it all wrong at work.
For power tools, are you a dewalt or Milwaukee man?
เป็นกำลังใจให้ครับช่างครับ🌏🤝🛠️🇹🇭🛠️❤️🙏
Get some slickmans gloves
A sideways comment - why use a torch to cut everything when you can use a "Skill Saw" with a metal cutting blade to cut and thus get a cleaner cut?
It will only work on straight cuts but that is a lot of your work (besides saddling cuts).
They cut faster and make cleaner cuts.
Arron that thing is very time consuming if you have a curvomark set it at 30 to 33 degrees and mark your saddle out that thing is a joke.
Too much set-up time. I'd layout and cut the templates before I use that.
I knew maintaining that angle iron square on the 5" saddle piece would become an issue.