Modrrn draw operations use Teflon infused high viscosity lubricants. But here, tallow would work. It can be removed from the final work easier than beeswax.
@@ericmueller6836 In the mid-80s we played with (forced) dry graphite and molybdenum type solutions on carbide dies. 12 lines pulling multiple reductions in a 1950's era factory sang like the worst orchestra EVER !! Think: Jim Carrey doing the "world's most annoying noise" X12.
Awesome that you are showing this underrated craft! Both wires turned out great! No material is lost. It just gets reshaped within the hole. As pointed out in the comments lubrication with beeswax or tallow aids the process. And indeed it takes a lot of force.
Really should avoid working with better help. As someone in psych, their predatory business practices make it utterly bizarre they're allowed to operate. Edit: even if these calls have been repeatedly stated then ignored, ensuring they're made top comment increases awareness. From there, we have a choice: continue to engage with creators who pull the "baby's gotta eat" card as they work with known abusers or don't watch their content. And though not applicable in all settings, there is a middle ground thanks to adblock and sponsorblock. Anyway, there will always be a difference between making a living and making an honest living. And it's sad it's a lucrative one.
yeah, sharing user data with advertisers, allowing people without licenses to operate as professional therapists (im fairly sure they fixed this but it's WILD that is happened at all), and honestly even the promises they give users about availability of their therapists that just...arent feasible or reasonable to ask another person to do. kinda gross, but i know contracts exist, so im not gonna judge htme too hard unless he comes to defend them hard down here.
I was working in the wire industry for the first 3 years of my career as an engineer. For low volume wire making, it is rather easy to do, but to make long continuous wire, lubrication and die design play a significant crucial role in successfully drawing wires 😅
It's spooled in smaller bobbin for small diameter wire and spooled in gigantic spool drums for cable ling wires. It actually depends on what the next process is.
@@ЁбрагимИпатенкоибнАдхарма depends on how round you want your wires to be. But yes 😅. Actually fine wires would be heat treated at some point using molten Lead (for metal wires) to not burn the wires during heating. For copper or aluminum wires you just need to watch for the reduction ratio and die approach angle in between each reduction and lubrication
Gold and silversmith here! I do this process quite frequently, usually with silver but sometimes copper and brass. I'm begging y'all to wear some eye protection! The force the wire is under can really do some damage when it comes through the drawplate. Safety squint aint cutting it. For tips: - anneal every 3 holes you go through on the drawplate. - its much easier if you hammer a rough taper in the front section of wire - if its sticking, pull it through the same diameter hole a couple times before moving down - a bit of beeswax for lubrication is good
I wonder if vacuum tubes would be any easier, I feel like a lot of the difficulty in silicon was just the chemistry, so knowing that ahead of time might make it easier than doing the glasswork/vacuum for tubes
by that logic you could say 'quantum computer' is the hardest lol... the transistor is a product, right, but its not really a single material process, transistor is a composite of elements ;) so a quartz clock would be simpler (in terms of a single 'thing' being made), since theres no need to make lasers, lenses, stepper motors and chemicals before transistors, especially tiny ones on ICs... anyhows, you could be right, but please also do consider this aspect hehe 😅
@@yus3dp533 Ironically, quantum computing is the easiest to make from scratch if you know what you're doing. Though you might need to rip a guy's heart out to do it...
@@brown56765 Tubes are indeed easier. Silicon purification is going to be well outside HTME's capability, but everything that goes into a vacuum tube is stuff they've already "unlocked". I mean, they never got high-purity glass before, but if they're going to accept glass blowing as an unlocked tech, that's easily the hardest part in making a tube. The rest is just fabrication challenges, but there's people making tubes by hand on youtube right now.
yeah. you are going to have to live a long time to watch one man go from polishing stones to make a straight edge to making chips for 5g interwebs! amazing how far we've come since co2 went up. ahh. i had to get political.... 😁
Generators -> Lights -> Speakers/Microphone -> Telephone -> Radio. Pretty sure this could be manufactured in a single workshop. Going beyond that get's a lot harder I think. Single workshops has made semiconductor chips, but there is a hell of a lot of chemistry and instruments that you would need to make... and I've not seen anyone grow the crystals, let alone manufacture all the chemicals.
As long as he sticks to his current standards, I'm not gonna be surprised unless he starts making silicone computer chips. The funny thing is he made the wire the hard way in this video. There are old hand cranked wire making devices intended for jewelry that i've seen but can't remember the name of... Granted, making one of those might be more difficult than pulling wire through a small hole repeatedly, but the actual process of making the wire would have been easier.
This is awesome. There's a book ny Jules Verne called The Mysterious Island, in which a small group of men are marooned on an island. They are led by an engineer, and the story is essentially about them accepting their fate, and using science and engineering to make their lives on the island not only tolerable, but comfortable. Drawing wire is one of the things they do in the story (to make a telegraph system) so it was very cool to see it being done for real.
Oh man! People wanted to know about this and there was only one source?! (Now two) I should have made my own video! Might still do that. And teach people how to make the tools step by step.
There is a lot of info on this it is just A) HTME sucks at research or B) They are trying to get people to go to ironskin. Still worth more videos being made on this if you have the skill to teach it.
Pure copper wire may be a little too brittle for your future uses. Magnet wire is usually some from of alloy. A popular one is C11000. Its more ductile than pure copper, has better conductivity and resists oxidation. Doing that will certainly increase your chance of success when/if you plan to further expand into electronics. Its a 999:1 composition of copper and gold respectively. I expect wire insulation to be quite the challenge. I can't wait to see how you tackle that.
C11000 doesn't contain any gold. It is 99.9%+ pure copper the rest being oxygen (trace impurities aside). Maybe you're confused by seeing it sold with gold plating? Sometime that is done for oxidation protection. Also small amounts of other elements in a near-pure metal typically reduce its conductivity due to higher phonon scattering. Gold having a lower conductivity that copper doesnt help the latter either.
@@WouterVerbruggen Sorry if I wasn't clear its composition would be applicable here, it would be better than the "pure copper" he has sourced. Hmm, the datasheet I found for it listed it as an alloy composition but I think you are right about it being plated.
It would be strange for magnet wire not to be pure copper. Magnets work by using magnetic fields to push electrons. But impure metal acts like a rocky road for electrons. So thats why they use pure copper or pure aluminum in transformers. I read that the large power lines however are steel with a aluminum strand woven in. Seems like they had to except a loss of power to have lines that long. Though that get into phases 2 phase to three to 6.
@@fajile5109 I'm more speaking to his limitations. Any pure copper he attempts will be loaded with defects, alloyed won't be ideal for professionally produce magnet wire but in his case it would be useful. If ha manages to be cautious enough to do so.
@@fajile5109 Actually, it’s quite the opposite: large powerlines are aluminum strands wound around a central steel strand. AC power tends to flow through the outside of a cable due to skin effect, so the inside has little effect on the power handling capability of the cable, thus the center is the obvious place for the steel strand which makes the cable strong enough to handle being stretched between support structures.
I always wondered already how they managed to make wire back then. Trying to do a proper way of insulating is a next useful step! I've restored radios from around the 1920s, there the wires were wrapped in something like cotton, and then they're soaked in some kind of wax and coated in shellac. Generally, the insulation is very rigid, but by throwing the wire in a bit of alcohol, the insulation becomes soft, then you can bend the wire into the right shape and you can do your soldering. Soldering irons from back then were simply big blocks of copper attached to a steel rod and a wooden handle. You throw them in a woodfire, clean the head off with a steel brush and comfortably solder for a while. As for tin, a popular composition is 60% tin and 40% lead. Tree rosin (colofonium) was super popular as a flux up until we went from lead-holding tin to lead-free stuff. You're trying to draw an awful lot of current from the voltaic pile in the video. When it comes to an electromagnet like yours, with a wire of this thickness, you don't need a high voltage, but to supply a high current. You can do this, rather than stacking a lot of cells on top of each other, simply by only making a couple, but with a really large surface area! Keep in mind, a battery does not spit out current. It creates a potential difference at its electrodes, and a load with a certain resistance draws a current accordingly. This current may be limited due to the internal resistance of the battery, hence when you try to draw a lot of current, this becomes a larger and larger issue, resulting in a large voltage drop (hence your voltaic pile sags so much in voltage) so you want to increase the surface area of your electrodes :-). But this stuff is all incredibly doable for you. I think your largest barrier is still ahead of you if you want to go use electricity in a useful manner. It's generally also a big burden amongst electronics hobbyists. Ofcourse we learned iron is magnetic, but that doesn't necessarily mean steel is magnetic! In fact, the usefulness of a material for building things like electromagnets, transformers, motors and generators is very much determined by the permeability of the material. The higher the permeability, the stronger you can concentrate a magnetic field (very crudely generalized). This is why for an electromagnet, it is beneficial to add a soft-iron core, it allows you to create a stronger magnetic field before your energy goes to waste. Whilst a steel core, depending on its composition, could add little to no benefit since the permeability may not be that much higher than that of air. In electronics applications, we refer therefore to the material as soft iron, silicon steel, electrical steel, etc. The first transformers were mostly made with very pure iron sheets, later it was found by adding silicon to your composition, it helps enormously ramping up the permeability. The detail that will make or break your next step is the carbon content of your steel. The lower you'll be able to possibly get this, the better. The electromagnets I've designed in the past usually used steel with a carbon content lower than something like 0.1%, for transformers it's not weird to hear carbon contents like 10-100 times less than that. This is why it's so hard to make your own transformer at home for your own projects, it's really hard to get these alloys. I've heard of people making cores from spring steel, but then the efficiency is still really bad, resulting in really big and heavy transformers. Whenever we work with a new alloy, generally we get it machined in a bar and throw it in a device called a B-H curve tracer. I'm sure you can get your compositions analyzed if you puppy-eye a big transformer or generator manufacturer. It's tricky to quantify the permeability and other important variables when it comes to these designs, it gets really technical really quickly, hence maybe the best method is simply trial and error and see whats best :-) Goodluck with your endeavours, I'm really excited to see you experiment rediscovering electronics on your own this way! It's been my dream to do such thing myself, but there's too many projects to half-ass, I don't have the time to half-ass another one anymore hahaha
@@DUIofPhysics For what? For glassblowing that was already made here? Or for valves that can be made even out of wood? (Just asking, there is clearly some other comment, that YT overlords don't want me to see -_- )
Drawing you need a lubricant, the old one used was a mix of beef tallow and beeswax, which allows you to dar with less force, as it lubricates the sides of the die. Normally a dollop on the inner side of the die to allow it to flow in, held in place there and the heat of drawing melts it into the die.
Fun fact about chainmail armour. Some of the links were actually solid rings, not riveted. This made it even stronger. I think it was about 1/5 of the rings or the center of each 4 in 1 grouping.
Further fun fact: An unriveted chainmail shirt is still remarkably good as armour, and doesnt even all thay easily fall apart; its just not preferred bcuz the rivetin process makes it so that the armour is slower to wear down. Without rivetin you can end up with holes in your weave after takin a hard hit
@@SylviaRustyFae Good against cuts maybe, but I can't imagine it being good against stabs considering only the bending resistance of the wire keeps the rings from opening up.
@@mrkiky cuts and stabs dont actually make up the biggest bulk of wpns used in early medieval warfare... Its usually club type wpns where rly you just need smth to deflect the blow into a wider area; hence chainmail over gambeson Yes, its particularly ineffective against arrows, but only if shot directly and only in that one spot; and the padded gambeson layer underneath does help to make those arrow hits less lethal The real downside to the crimped together rather than welded style is that the armour doesnt last as long, but its vastly quicker and cheaper to outfit an army in unriveted chainmail if one is armin ppl directly rathe than forcin them to buy their own armour Tbf yes, somewhere like Europe post 11th c youre gonna find prty much exclusively riveted mail, but that is bcuz there if someone is in the military; theyre expected to outfit themself. So you end up seein less armour, but when there is armour; it tends to be armour which passed down generations and kept maintained spec bcuz this family wanted better odds of survival when conscripted But a lot of other places outfitted soldiers directly and did such with just cheap massly produced armour and arms, and it was rarer that soldiers came with their own better gear Notably btwn crossbows becomin a major thing and swords becomin more of a common choice of warfare, riveted mail def did see a heyday where it was prty much the only armour worn; but that was also in part bcuz it provided better protection against early bullets too. At least better than leather or padded cloth, even if leather is actually remarkably strong against a blade or even arrow
@@SylviaRustyFaeyou dont have to theorize all of this is documented. Swords were never really a major choice in warfare, they are more of a self defense item. Thats why it was more common to see people with swords then spears or halberds. Bows arrows and cross bows were the major killer with the pikes and calvery making up a decent score. Its the same as now artillery kills far more then simple infantry. While soap existed back then it was an expensive process and not as simple as we make it out to be today. A single cut could kill.
So THAT is how they made wires in the pre-industrial days! Cool to see that draw plate in action. Really impressive how much you can stretch a hunk of metal.
@@vishfoodz5083Terrible for patients, terrible for therapists, way too expensive, and arguably worst of all they were caught and fined for giving patient's private medical data to Facebook for use in targeted advertising.
@@vishfoodz5083they do not hire professionals, and the professionals that they did hire they have fired because they replaced them with AI. They are also not very affordable, and even the "affordable low-income option" is still pretty expensive. They also don't really care about the people who use their service, because you could potentially be matched with a completely different type of therapist than what you needed.
@@vishfoodz5083Apparently they transmit everything you say to third parties, so data brokers know where you are, how many sessions you book, if you are suicidal, your financial status, religious beliefs, and a lot of other things are being sold off. This is while you still pay money for a therapist. Apparently there are a lot of other things, but some youtubers cover it better.
i wonder how a draw plate would have traditionally been made? Since it needs to be hard enough to stretch the wire, but also somewhat precise. But i guess hammering a few holes of various sizes into a sheet of iron isn't as big of a hurdle as i might think.
You can work with wrought iron and case harden using charcoal and salt paste encased in something like clay and using a forge. I'm speculating here, I have no idea how they made draw plates at first.
@@raa6504 the oldest known draw plate (8th century, found in Norway) was made from Iron according to the museums website. Not sure if they just used it to pull softer metals, or if it was hardened somehow, so that it maybd could pull iron too.
Whatever the right answer is comes down to which period we talk about...the holes could´ve been made by roughly pre drilling them and then bringing them to size with a tapered reamer similar to a watchmakers awl. You could use the same reamer for the whole plate, for bigger holes you just go deeper. A tapered chisel would work after the same principle, just with less precision.
It is common in engineering when drawing or forming metals to use some soap, the waxy stuff like bars of soap in liquid form, it lubricates the metal and makes it easier to draw/form.
Your entire channel is something I've often fantasized about doing myself. Thank you for making my dream come true, and allowing me to live vicariously through you.
I remember when I started watching you in the 6th grade and it’s crazy to think I’m a freshman in high school now I’m so glad your still doing this keep up the good work 👍
If you want to reduce the effort needed to pull the wire, and reduce breakage, I would start by making sure your drawplate is firmly anchored in place so it cannot move as you pull. When you pull at an angle instead of straight-on 90° your wire is bending as it comes through the hole, increasing the pulling resistance and weakening the wire.
Hi! Probably been said a bunch but BetterHelp is more a data-harvesting resource rather than an actual HELPFUL one, with a lot of potentially shady business practices? I get this sponsorship was likely planned QUITE A BIT in advance but just for your thing in the future. Regardless, excited to see the potential expansion into homemade electronics in the future, even IF homemade wire is difficult. This is FASCINATING.
I used to draw wire for a living ask me anything. The best source of wire draw info is the Fort wayne wire die blue book. Thick wire needs to be dry drawn. You can dry draw to about .025 reliably, but going slow brings that up to about .050 without blowing out the die or scratching your wire, which also ruins the die. I dont know about wet draw, but dry draw lubricants are typically sodium or titanium based soap powders. The wire must also dipped clean and dipped in a coating solution, so the dry soap can stick to the wire as it goes through the die. You can calculate draft but its some pretty complicated math. Just dont over reduce the wire in one shot, and it has to be annealed between runs to avoid snapping. Wire breaks happen because you drew down too far or were not lubricated, or the wire was too hard. Dies wear down over time, replace them. Use tungsten dies, and they'll last longer.
Thank you for this! I do Viking Wire weaving for a Renaissance festival and the question i always get is "how did they make the wire?". I knew it was a process similar to this but seeing it in action is fantastic. Thank you so much? Also, Better Help is not better, it's possibly worse
Great work! Just an incredible process to watch, the ductility of metal demonstrated this way is really mind-boggling. Ive been wanting to try this ever since reading about it in 'On Divers Arts' but I was always intimidated by the difficulty!
While doing riveted rings is impressive and much stronger, it's a lot of extra work for minimal gain, especially for a proof of concept... Great video and information, and very impressive results
Electricity and electronics have always amazed me due to the need to create the material we take for granted today. Wire especially was one aspect of material being made then insulated with natural material like cotton threads and soon, liquid insulation the wire was drawn through to insulate it after it dried. Some insulations were melted and the wire drawn through and the liquid that would cool and solidify. But the industry of wire making has grown by leaps and bounds due to competition and need. We now have wires that are insulated with teflon and then shielded, making a coax that carries radio frequency power to antennas and vice versa. We can recreate the process, but finding and reusing material after a world wide collapse would be far faster way to get back into the industrial age rather than starting from the stone age.
Been watching from the beginning of this amazing quest and I am so excited to see you finally reach the ability to harness the electricity and look forward to motors and generators!!!
I was wondering when we'd start getting to some more electronic components! Excellent video! Though I wonder if you could demonstrate how you could theoretically get to making the draw holes, because that seems like a notable piece of technology you kinda skipped over to get to this step. Regardless, loving the channel!
first as you have probably heard in the comments already !!! :) you need to lower your draw plate to just above the bench and brace the board it is attached to. also a block and tackle to pull the heavier pieces through would help provide a smoother pull , would an indirect heat(oven) be a better way to anneal the materials. Eureka just had a thought attach the table to a wall cut a small hole in the wall to run the wire though and put a ring to attach your block and tackle to at the doorway across the room from the table and hole in the wall :)
Probably the reason the gold failed was that it was native gold and not refined. Remember that gold was cuppelated since ancient times, meaning it was free of everything except gold and silver and traces of platinum group metals. And then in the early Bronze Age the Lydians worked out how to "part gold", that is separate gold from silver. Basically by turning the silver into silver chloride and sublimating in a furnace, leaving the fine gold behind, then reducing the silver chloride fumes which would condense into white crystalline masses in the chimneys, back into black metallic silver or oxide with honey and/or light, allowed the silver to be resmelted into metal bars. Also they *ALWAYS* used to draw wire using some sort of lubrication, whether that be animal tallow, bee's wax or talc or graphite. Also you've be told many times before, please stop schilling for Better Help Plus, they are extremely unscrupulous and are even in trouble for using unqualified therapists and telling their customers they are qualified ones.
Some wooden supports going from the top of the board holding the draw plate down at a 45° angle back towards the winch would make yalls lives a loooot easier, along with lubrication
Every HTME video, I'm more and more concerned about their hazardous workplace conditions, they should have some professional safety measures to prevent anyone from getting seriously injured or get toxic matter in their system.
For the wire, a series of pulleys and rollers under tension help with drawing, as well as an oil bath or something similar to help with lubrication. The pulleys help with keeping the wire taut and straight, as well as having a more consistent feeding angle.
I've gone down a rabbit hole of ancient technologies (many times); and I've found water clocks very interesting. I was wondering if you'd ever consider making a water clock, as they were extremely important time-keeping devices, and were the main outlet for mechanical skill outside of manufacturing (in advanced economies). It's also a nice bridging ground before the more advanced mechanical creations you might have to tackle, and can be used to show the basic concepts of gears, etc.
I remember in a Minecraft Modpack with TerraFirmaCraft, there was a mod that added in a wire drawing mechanic. You had to basically make that entiee setup. It used the die, pliers, leather to pull, and a crank to turn. and it was so time consuming. Even for a video game. But it was a very cool mechanic to learn.
use lubrication for drawing wire, also, when forging the wire from ingots/other forms of raw material, let the hammer do the work for you, it helps lessen the inconsistencies
As a chainmailler, it's interesting to see wire be drawn and riveted rings made. I'd love to help on the design part of the armor project (assuming it hasn't already been made), as I've made a few hauberks of my own. I haven't worked with riveted maille yet, and I'd love the chance.
This might help. Set a rig up so you can attach it to the end of your forge so you can pull the wire through right after it has gone from red hot to dull again, so the wire can be molded easier by the gauge plate? Essentially reduce the time it takes from annealing to actual pulling by making it one set operation. A little tricky with the heat no doubt, but if done right, I suspect you'll be able to get those super long thin wires you want.
One improvement to your setup would be a gear-driven drum. That will increase the force you can apply, smooth out the force (reducing the risk of breaking), and only be applying force on a small part of the wire at once.
Here's a tip Use oil I used to work in jewelry shop and pulling wire to get it to a specific diameter was a daily task, oil helps alot, we usually used I think old motor oil but any lubricant should work
You really should have reinforced that board you were drawing from with vertical boards. You were getting a lot of friction and shear forces on the wire with it wobbling like that.
Watching you draw the copper wire was really cool. I was surprised how long you got it. I dabble in electronics and I have to say honestly that’s the next project you should do with the wire should be a generator of electricity. Would be great if you could use one of your other inventions like the water wheel that could maintain a continuous Motion. Then all you need to do is figure out the magnet configuration and WAMO you’ll have a better source of electricity than your battery pile. It will likely be AC electricity, compared to your battery which produces DC. But you’ll be able to get way more current, which will be much more useful to you with further experiments. Good luck with future developments in this technology. It’s been great to see you get this far!
I wonder if they will try making a vacuum tube to amplify the signal in their eventual telegraph system? TBH that was the most crazy thing I could think of to do with drawn wire. I don't know why I didn't think of electromagnets.
Electric telecommunications in a copper wire travel at about 70% the speed of light. Fiber optics isn't exactly faster than copper as all references to light speed are usually in a vacuum. Fiber optics has a lot of advantages, protection from interference from outside electromechanical sources being one of the biggest.
If you have a hard time getting it through a particular hole on the draw plate do it through that draw plate again until it's does it smoothly before moving down a step
I challenge you to turn all of your information into a book. Hire an artist and a writer and they can look through all your videos and do the converting. Then print at least one copy on stuff you made your self. Your own paper, ink and what ever print system you want to use.
There was varnish back in the day and it would allow you to make better electromagnets and in turn motors/generators due to more coils closer together. Actually square wire is awesome for making coils but probably hard to make square all the same diameter
they also made a very simple centrifuge- a spinning top, wound up, and spun at high speed. theirs was to spin candy floss (cotton candy). another can be made to be made to separate fluids in a vial. (go on YT, and it shows how to do this).
Insulation might be easier than I initial thought. I suspect the sort of enamel coating used in magnet wire (for how thin it can be) is something you could approximate with a bath of fairly crude chemicals. The hint about annealing the wire between pulls is obvious in retrospect. Huge deal, preventing work-hardening and breakage. 16ga magnet wire is not bad at all for homemade. How do you make the die used for pulling the wire, though?
If you have a eletromagnet and a batery that is enough to make an alternator, they are very simple and use no permanent magnets. Extra points if you make it self exciting by storing the DC voltage in an capacitor
Dipping the wire in shellac is probably the easiest way of making magnet wire and you should be able to use it given what you've reached technology wise.
The first step of forging down the stock to something useable could be made easier and more consistent by using a series of rounding dies on spring swages.
I watched a physics professor do a demonstration where he had a copper wire suspended from the ceiling of the auditorium. He had a basket that he kept adding weight to slowly as the wire stretched many feet. I don’t know if the wire stretching was uniform throughout though. That was so painful to watch that wire being drawn without lubricants.
As a LARPer, ive actually spent many hrs cuttin wire for chainmail; it truly is a laborious project. Ive nvr made my own mail, just done it to help out (fighting/mercenary) company mates makin theirs I dont think any of them have made their own wire, but i did introduce a bunch of them to forgin, which ive also not personally done xD, with the late and great Grant Thompson's backyard forge video :3 I know some of themve made their own plate armours from soda cans :3 Lots and lots of soda cans heh
@@eDoc2020 Yes, but a thing about LARPing is that dependin on game you play, doin things more tradtly and makin your own items is a big part of the games; not in like a gameplay advantage way, just in an immersion way Buyin your own premade chain is rly diff of an exp than makin your own. And it was relatively cheap to make the chain too, cuz theyd get wire from farm supply stores and then use a rig to make a bunch of links to cut out In the game i play, theres even awards you can earn based on makin things like that. And a made from scratch chainmail shirt can get like a 4th order of said awards for whats rly just tedious, not specialised work
@@SylviaRustyFae I thought you were making custom chain mail armor as a service. I didn't realize it was for your own team. I totally understand wanting to do it by hand, especially if it's set in medieval times.
@@eDoc2020 *Fighting/Mercenary* Company mate* Tbf, my bad on the confusin verbiage there; yeah, this was a mercenary company mate i was cuttin chain links for
When drawing wire lubrication is important. Traditional ly Tallow but modern oils & grease work better
Beeswax works great, too!
Also, annealing would help also.
@@ericwilliams1659 they did that
Modrrn draw operations use Teflon infused high viscosity lubricants. But here, tallow would work. It can be removed from the final work easier than beeswax.
@@ericmueller6836 In the mid-80s we played with (forced) dry graphite and molybdenum type solutions on carbide dies. 12 lines pulling multiple reductions in a 1950's era factory sang like the worst orchestra EVER !!
Think: Jim Carrey doing the "world's most annoying noise" X12.
Awesome that you are showing this underrated craft! Both wires turned out great! No material is lost. It just gets reshaped within the hole. As pointed out in the comments lubrication with beeswax or tallow aids the process. And indeed it takes a lot of force.
1) Lubrication. 2) Frequent annealing. 3) Pull straight and steady. 4) Avoid steps that concentrate stress. 5) A stiffer drawing apparatus would help.
Thanks!
Really should avoid working with better help. As someone in psych, their predatory business practices make it utterly bizarre they're allowed to operate.
Edit: even if these calls have been repeatedly stated then ignored, ensuring they're made top comment increases awareness. From there, we have a choice: continue to engage with creators who pull the "baby's gotta eat" card as they work with known abusers or don't watch their content. And though not applicable in all settings, there is a middle ground thanks to adblock and sponsorblock.
Anyway, there will always be a difference between making a living and making an honest living. And it's sad it's a lucrative one.
yeah, sharing user data with advertisers, allowing people without licenses to operate as professional therapists (im fairly sure they fixed this but it's WILD that is happened at all), and honestly even the promises they give users about availability of their therapists that just...arent feasible or reasonable to ask another person to do. kinda gross, but i know contracts exist, so im not gonna judge htme too hard unless he comes to defend them hard down here.
Are you saying we need better help than Better Help can provide?
They sell data to brokers, very sensitive data
I almost started using their services one time before doing this wild thing called REASERCH, can agree they've got some serious shade
@@Incaensio very valuable data.
I was working in the wire industry for the first 3 years of my career as an engineer. For low volume wire making, it is rather easy to do, but to make long continuous wire, lubrication and die design play a significant crucial role in successfully drawing wires 😅
It's spooled in smaller bobbin for small diameter wire and spooled in gigantic spool drums for cable ling wires. It actually depends on what the next process is.
Much respect for the field! I think wire is such a simple product once we have it, but the process for making it is definitely taken for granted.
At first they should keep the die perpendicular to wire, I guess?)
@@ЁбрагимИпатенкоибнАдхарма depends on how round you want your wires to be. But yes 😅. Actually fine wires would be heat treated at some point using molten Lead (for metal wires) to not burn the wires during heating. For copper or aluminum wires you just need to watch for the reduction ratio and die approach angle in between each reduction and lubrication
Wait why are wires not just extruded directly from fluid metal?
Gold and silversmith here! I do this process quite frequently, usually with silver but sometimes copper and brass.
I'm begging y'all to wear some eye protection! The force the wire is under can really do some damage when it comes through the drawplate. Safety squint aint cutting it.
For tips:
- anneal every 3 holes you go through on the drawplate.
- its much easier if you hammer a rough taper in the front section of wire
- if its sticking, pull it through the same diameter hole a couple times before moving down
- a bit of beeswax for lubrication is good
most difficult part will DEFINITELY be the silicon transistor
I wonder if vacuum tubes would be any easier, I feel like a lot of the difficulty in silicon was just the chemistry, so knowing that ahead of time might make it easier than doing the glasswork/vacuum for tubes
Relays should be pretty easy to make for analog devices like telephones and telegraphs.
by that logic you could say 'quantum computer' is the hardest lol... the transistor is a product, right, but its not really a single material process, transistor is a composite of elements ;) so a quartz clock would be simpler (in terms of a single 'thing' being made), since theres no need to make lasers, lenses, stepper motors and chemicals before transistors, especially tiny ones on ICs... anyhows, you could be right, but please also do consider this aspect hehe 😅
@@yus3dp533 Ironically, quantum computing is the easiest to make from scratch if you know what you're doing. Though you might need to rip a guy's heart out to do it...
@@brown56765 Tubes are indeed easier. Silicon purification is going to be well outside HTME's capability, but everything that goes into a vacuum tube is stuff they've already "unlocked". I mean, they never got high-purity glass before, but if they're going to accept glass blowing as an unlocked tech, that's easily the hardest part in making a tube. The rest is just fabrication challenges, but there's people making tubes by hand on youtube right now.
I never thought electronics would be on this channel
Computers are next bro, or a light bulb.
yeah. you are going to have to live a long time to watch one man go from polishing stones to make a straight edge to making chips for 5g interwebs! amazing how far we've come since co2 went up. ahh. i had to get political.... 😁
Bro fr thou
Generators -> Lights -> Speakers/Microphone -> Telephone -> Radio. Pretty sure this could be manufactured in a single workshop. Going beyond that get's a lot harder I think. Single workshops has made semiconductor chips, but there is a hell of a lot of chemistry and instruments that you would need to make... and I've not seen anyone grow the crystals, let alone manufacture all the chemicals.
As long as he sticks to his current standards, I'm not gonna be surprised unless he starts making silicone computer chips.
The funny thing is he made the wire the hard way in this video.
There are old hand cranked wire making devices intended for jewelry that i've seen but can't remember the name of...
Granted, making one of those might be more difficult than pulling wire through a small hole repeatedly, but the actual process of making the wire would have been easier.
This is awesome. There's a book ny Jules Verne called The Mysterious Island, in which a small group of men are marooned on an island.
They are led by an engineer, and the story is essentially about them accepting their fate, and using science and engineering to make their lives on the island not only tolerable, but comfortable.
Drawing wire is one of the things they do in the story (to make a telegraph system) so it was very cool to see it being done for real.
Oh man! People wanted to know about this and there was only one source?! (Now two) I should have made my own video! Might still do that. And teach people how to make the tools step by step.
Do it Doble! The more resources out there, the better!
Please do. I am interested to know as well.
I would love to know how to make my own draw plate
There is a lot of info on this it is just A) HTME sucks at research or B) They are trying to get people to go to ironskin. Still worth more videos being made on this if you have the skill to teach it.
Hardly looks like you're in a position to school anyone, looking at your channel.
Pure copper wire may be a little too brittle for your future uses. Magnet wire is usually some from of alloy. A popular one is C11000. Its more ductile than pure copper, has better conductivity and resists oxidation. Doing that will certainly increase your chance of success when/if you plan to further expand into electronics. Its a 999:1 composition of copper and gold respectively. I expect wire insulation to be quite the challenge. I can't wait to see how you tackle that.
C11000 doesn't contain any gold. It is 99.9%+ pure copper the rest being oxygen (trace impurities aside). Maybe you're confused by seeing it sold with gold plating? Sometime that is done for oxidation protection. Also small amounts of other elements in a near-pure metal typically reduce its conductivity due to higher phonon scattering. Gold having a lower conductivity that copper doesnt help the latter either.
@@WouterVerbruggen Sorry if I wasn't clear its composition would be applicable here, it would be better than the "pure copper" he has sourced. Hmm, the datasheet I found for it listed it as an alloy composition but I think you are right about it being plated.
It would be strange for magnet wire not to be pure copper. Magnets work by using magnetic fields to push electrons. But impure metal acts like a rocky road for electrons. So thats why they use pure copper or pure aluminum in transformers. I read that the large power lines however are steel with a aluminum strand woven in. Seems like they had to except a loss of power to have lines that long. Though that get into phases 2 phase to three to 6.
@@fajile5109 I'm more speaking to his limitations. Any pure copper he attempts will be loaded with defects, alloyed won't be ideal for professionally produce magnet wire but in his case it would be useful. If ha manages to be cautious enough to do so.
@@fajile5109 Actually, it’s quite the opposite: large powerlines are aluminum strands wound around a central steel strand. AC power tends to flow through the outside of a cable due to skin effect, so the inside has little effect on the power handling capability of the cable, thus the center is the obvious place for the steel strand which makes the cable strong enough to handle being stretched between support structures.
I always wondered already how they managed to make wire back then. Trying to do a proper way of insulating is a next useful step! I've restored radios from around the 1920s, there the wires were wrapped in something like cotton, and then they're soaked in some kind of wax and coated in shellac. Generally, the insulation is very rigid, but by throwing the wire in a bit of alcohol, the insulation becomes soft, then you can bend the wire into the right shape and you can do your soldering.
Soldering irons from back then were simply big blocks of copper attached to a steel rod and a wooden handle. You throw them in a woodfire, clean the head off with a steel brush and comfortably solder for a while. As for tin, a popular composition is 60% tin and 40% lead. Tree rosin (colofonium) was super popular as a flux up until we went from lead-holding tin to lead-free stuff.
You're trying to draw an awful lot of current from the voltaic pile in the video. When it comes to an electromagnet like yours, with a wire of this thickness, you don't need a high voltage, but to supply a high current. You can do this, rather than stacking a lot of cells on top of each other, simply by only making a couple, but with a really large surface area! Keep in mind, a battery does not spit out current. It creates a potential difference at its electrodes, and a load with a certain resistance draws a current accordingly. This current may be limited due to the internal resistance of the battery, hence when you try to draw a lot of current, this becomes a larger and larger issue, resulting in a large voltage drop (hence your voltaic pile sags so much in voltage) so you want to increase the surface area of your electrodes :-).
But this stuff is all incredibly doable for you. I think your largest barrier is still ahead of you if you want to go use electricity in a useful manner. It's generally also a big burden amongst electronics hobbyists. Ofcourse we learned iron is magnetic, but that doesn't necessarily mean steel is magnetic! In fact, the usefulness of a material for building things like electromagnets, transformers, motors and generators is very much determined by the permeability of the material. The higher the permeability, the stronger you can concentrate a magnetic field (very crudely generalized). This is why for an electromagnet, it is beneficial to add a soft-iron core, it allows you to create a stronger magnetic field before your energy goes to waste. Whilst a steel core, depending on its composition, could add little to no benefit since the permeability may not be that much higher than that of air. In electronics applications, we refer therefore to the material as soft iron, silicon steel, electrical steel, etc. The first transformers were mostly made with very pure iron sheets, later it was found by adding silicon to your composition, it helps enormously ramping up the permeability. The detail that will make or break your next step is the carbon content of your steel. The lower you'll be able to possibly get this, the better. The electromagnets I've designed in the past usually used steel with a carbon content lower than something like 0.1%, for transformers it's not weird to hear carbon contents like 10-100 times less than that. This is why it's so hard to make your own transformer at home for your own projects, it's really hard to get these alloys. I've heard of people making cores from spring steel, but then the efficiency is still really bad, resulting in really big and heavy transformers. Whenever we work with a new alloy, generally we get it machined in a bar and throw it in a device called a B-H curve tracer. I'm sure you can get your compositions analyzed if you puppy-eye a big transformer or generator manufacturer. It's tricky to quantify the permeability and other important variables when it comes to these designs, it gets really technical really quickly, hence maybe the best method is simply trial and error and see whats best :-)
Goodluck with your endeavours, I'm really excited to see you experiment rediscovering electronics on your own this way! It's been my dream to do such thing myself, but there's too many projects to half-ass, I don't have the time to half-ass another one anymore hahaha
Might wanna not take sponsorships from better help, they're known for being pretty much a scam
I reckon glass blowing and valve manufacture is well within your capability
challenge is that valves require horrifically pure, extremely rare metals :P
And then drawing vacuums, which then leads to vacuum tubes and light bulbs.
@@DUIofPhysics For what? For glassblowing that was already made here? Or for valves that can be made even out of wood?
(Just asking, there is clearly some other comment, that YT overlords don't want me to see -_- )
@@finkergamer8557 He's applying sarcasm, as indicated by the emoji at the end of his comment.
@@Weshwey_ oh, makes sense. Thou I use it for morę than sarcasm and/or irony. For real thou, it shows me more responses then there are.
at 6:47 i would add just 2x4's to brace the board before it breaks loose and comes flying at you.
Your channel is easily the most important one on You Tube. I have a great deal of respect for you and the content you provide.
That poor 2x8 used to hold the draw plate, you could have easily installed a few supporting blocks on the pulling side to reinforce it.
Thats actually insane! I would have never thought this would work as well as it did! Huge congrats!
Drawing you need a lubricant, the old one used was a mix of beef tallow and beeswax, which allows you to dar with less force, as it lubricates the sides of the die. Normally a dollop on the inner side of the die to allow it to flow in, held in place there and the heat of drawing melts it into the die.
Fun fact about chainmail armour. Some of the links were actually solid rings, not riveted. This made it even stronger. I think it was about 1/5 of the rings or the center of each 4 in 1 grouping.
Done right it should be almost 1/2 of the rings only needing extra riveted rings in complex areas like joints.
Further fun fact: An unriveted chainmail shirt is still remarkably good as armour, and doesnt even all thay easily fall apart; its just not preferred bcuz the rivetin process makes it so that the armour is slower to wear down. Without rivetin you can end up with holes in your weave after takin a hard hit
@@SylviaRustyFae Good against cuts maybe, but I can't imagine it being good against stabs considering only the bending resistance of the wire keeps the rings from opening up.
@@mrkiky cuts and stabs dont actually make up the biggest bulk of wpns used in early medieval warfare... Its usually club type wpns where rly you just need smth to deflect the blow into a wider area; hence chainmail over gambeson
Yes, its particularly ineffective against arrows, but only if shot directly and only in that one spot; and the padded gambeson layer underneath does help to make those arrow hits less lethal
The real downside to the crimped together rather than welded style is that the armour doesnt last as long, but its vastly quicker and cheaper to outfit an army in unriveted chainmail if one is armin ppl directly rathe than forcin them to buy their own armour
Tbf yes, somewhere like Europe post 11th c youre gonna find prty much exclusively riveted mail, but that is bcuz there if someone is in the military; theyre expected to outfit themself. So you end up seein less armour, but when there is armour; it tends to be armour which passed down generations and kept maintained spec bcuz this family wanted better odds of survival when conscripted
But a lot of other places outfitted soldiers directly and did such with just cheap massly produced armour and arms, and it was rarer that soldiers came with their own better gear
Notably btwn crossbows becomin a major thing and swords becomin more of a common choice of warfare, riveted mail def did see a heyday where it was prty much the only armour worn; but that was also in part bcuz it provided better protection against early bullets too. At least better than leather or padded cloth, even if leather is actually remarkably strong against a blade or even arrow
@@SylviaRustyFaeyou dont have to theorize all of this is documented. Swords were never really a major choice in warfare, they are more of a self defense item. Thats why it was more common to see people with swords then spears or halberds. Bows arrows and cross bows were the major killer with the pikes and calvery making up a decent score. Its the same as now artillery kills far more then simple infantry. While soap existed back then it was an expensive process and not as simple as we make it out to be today. A single cut could kill.
So THAT is how they made wires in the pre-industrial days! Cool to see that draw plate in action. Really impressive how much you can stretch a hunk of metal.
Please stop working with BetterHelp!
Why ?
@@vishfoodz5083Terrible for patients, terrible for therapists, way too expensive, and arguably worst of all they were caught and fined for giving patient's private medical data to Facebook for use in targeted advertising.
@@vishfoodz5083 they are not a good company
@@vishfoodz5083they do not hire professionals, and the professionals that they did hire they have fired because they replaced them with AI. They are also not very affordable, and even the "affordable low-income option" is still pretty expensive. They also don't really care about the people who use their service, because you could potentially be matched with a completely different type of therapist than what you needed.
@@vishfoodz5083Apparently they transmit everything you say to third parties, so data brokers know where you are, how many sessions you book, if you are suicidal, your financial status, religious beliefs, and a lot of other things are being sold off. This is while you still pay money for a therapist. Apparently there are a lot of other things, but some youtubers cover it better.
i wonder how a draw plate would have traditionally been made? Since it needs to be hard enough to stretch the wire, but also somewhat precise.
But i guess hammering a few holes of various sizes into a sheet of iron isn't as big of a hurdle as i might think.
You can work with wrought iron and case harden using charcoal and salt paste encased in something like clay and using a forge. I'm speculating here, I have no idea how they made draw plates at first.
It depends what you are drawing through it, copper and silver and even gold are way softer than iron and each hole is actually tapered.
@@nerfherder4284 Why would precision be necessary? People didn't have to make exact wire sizes back when this sort of thing was done by hand.
@@raa6504 the oldest known draw plate (8th century, found in Norway) was made from Iron according to the museums website.
Not sure if they just used it to pull softer metals, or if it was hardened somehow, so that it maybd could pull iron too.
Whatever the right answer is comes down to which period we talk about...the holes could´ve been made by roughly pre drilling them and then bringing them to size with a tapered reamer similar to a watchmakers awl. You could use the same reamer for the whole plate, for bigger holes you just go deeper. A tapered chisel would work after the same principle, just with less precision.
It is common in engineering when drawing or forming metals to use some soap, the waxy stuff like bars of soap in liquid form, it lubricates the metal and makes it easier to draw/form.
Your entire channel is something I've often fantasized about doing myself.
Thank you for making my dream come true, and allowing me to live vicariously through you.
Eye protection please. Depth perception is a handy thing to have.
This series is really interesting! I love seeing how he rebuilds stuff from the ground up
I remember when I started watching you in the 6th grade and it’s crazy to think I’m a freshman in high school now I’m so glad your still doing this keep up the good work 👍
Could make a simple computer with relays. Good enough to compute a lot of useful stuff.
This video os sooooo drawn out! LOL!
Seriously, awesome video! I've always wondered!
If you want to reduce the effort needed to pull the wire, and reduce breakage, I would start by making sure your drawplate is firmly anchored in place so it cannot move as you pull. When you pull at an angle instead of straight-on 90° your wire is bending as it comes through the hole, increasing the pulling resistance and weakening the wire.
Hi! Probably been said a bunch but BetterHelp is more a data-harvesting resource rather than an actual HELPFUL one, with a lot of potentially shady business practices? I get this sponsorship was likely planned QUITE A BIT in advance but just for your thing in the future.
Regardless, excited to see the potential expansion into homemade electronics in the future, even IF homemade wire is difficult. This is FASCINATING.
love watching you guys learn why you need osha sometimes
I used to draw wire for a living ask me anything.
The best source of wire draw info is the Fort wayne wire die blue book.
Thick wire needs to be dry drawn. You can dry draw to about .025 reliably, but going slow brings that up to about .050 without blowing out the die or scratching your wire, which also ruins the die.
I dont know about wet draw, but dry draw lubricants are typically sodium or titanium based soap powders. The wire must also dipped clean and dipped in a coating solution, so the dry soap can stick to the wire as it goes through the die.
You can calculate draft but its some pretty complicated math. Just dont over reduce the wire in one shot, and it has to be annealed between runs to avoid snapping.
Wire breaks happen because you drew down too far or were not lubricated, or the wire was too hard.
Dies wear down over time, replace them. Use tungsten dies, and they'll last longer.
The safety factor on that 2x8 behind the draw plate under load is pretty pucker.
Thank you for this! I do Viking Wire weaving for a Renaissance festival and the question i always get is "how did they make the wire?". I knew it was a process similar to this but seeing it in action is fantastic. Thank you so much? Also, Better Help is not better, it's possibly worse
Great work! Just an incredible process to watch, the ductility of metal demonstrated this way is really mind-boggling. Ive been wanting to try this ever since reading about it in 'On Divers Arts' but I was always intimidated by the difficulty!
While doing riveted rings is impressive and much stronger, it's a lot of extra work for minimal gain, especially for a proof of concept...
Great video and information, and very impressive results
Good job 👏
I would love to know how magnet wires are enameled and coated to insulate them.
Hope you make it happen.
Electricity and electronics have always amazed me due to the need to create the material we take for granted today.
Wire especially was one aspect of material being made then insulated with natural material like cotton threads and soon, liquid insulation the wire was drawn through to insulate it after it dried. Some insulations were melted and the wire drawn through and the liquid that would cool and solidify.
But the industry of wire making has grown by leaps and bounds due to competition and need. We now have wires that are insulated with teflon and then shielded, making a coax that carries radio frequency power to antennas and vice versa.
We can recreate the process, but finding and reusing material after a world wide collapse would be far faster way to get back into the industrial age rather than starting from the stone age.
Hey when you finally go digital tubes are definitely possible in the home shop but even easier are magnetic logic components. Would be cool to see.
Been watching from the beginning of this amazing quest and I am so excited to see you finally reach the ability to harness the electricity and look forward to motors and generators!!!
I was wondering when we'd start getting to some more electronic components! Excellent video! Though I wonder if you could demonstrate how you could theoretically get to making the draw holes, because that seems like a notable piece of technology you kinda skipped over to get to this step. Regardless, loving the channel!
first as you have probably heard in the comments already !!! :) you need to lower your draw plate to just above the bench and brace the board it is attached to. also a block and tackle to pull the heavier pieces through would help provide a smoother pull , would an indirect heat(oven) be a better way to anneal the materials. Eureka just had a thought attach the table to a wall cut a small hole in the wall to run the wire though and put a ring to attach your block and tackle to at the doorway across the room from the table and hole in the wall :)
Probably the reason the gold failed was that it was native gold and not refined. Remember that gold was cuppelated since ancient times, meaning it was free of everything except gold and silver and traces of platinum group metals.
And then in the early Bronze Age the Lydians worked out how to "part gold", that is separate gold from silver. Basically by turning the silver into silver chloride and sublimating in a furnace, leaving the fine gold behind, then reducing the silver chloride fumes which would condense into white crystalline masses in the chimneys, back into black metallic silver or oxide with honey and/or light, allowed the silver to be resmelted into metal bars.
Also they *ALWAYS* used to draw wire using some sort of lubrication, whether that be animal tallow, bee's wax or talc or graphite.
Also you've be told many times before, please stop schilling for Better Help Plus, they are extremely unscrupulous and are even in trouble for using unqualified therapists and telling their customers they are qualified ones.
Some wooden supports going from the top of the board holding the draw plate down at a 45° angle back towards the winch would make yalls lives a loooot easier, along with lubrication
Give him a year or two and he'll be doping silicon with a microscope and making his own computer
Great video as always
sam zeloof has already done that one. Though he didnt make the equipment from scratch, so.
Nah your forgetting the part where he industrializes the cheese process.
Hes got a little way to go in terms of metallurgy, machining technology, and metrology.....
I patiently await the day he can collab with Ben Eater
I want to see if he uses the Gingery books.
Really cool! Can't wait for the vacuum tubes and semiconductors😂
Key things to research for your journey to rebuild everything, is metallic crystal structures, solid solutions, and Deformations.
Every HTME video, I'm more and more concerned about their hazardous workplace conditions, they should have some professional safety measures to prevent anyone from getting seriously injured or get toxic matter in their system.
For the wire, a series of pulleys and rollers under tension help with drawing, as well as an oil bath or something similar to help with lubrication. The pulleys help with keeping the wire taut and straight, as well as having a more consistent feeding angle.
This helps my DnD campaign where I'm making a thunder hawk, I need to make wire and this helps a lot
I've gone down a rabbit hole of ancient technologies (many times); and I've found water clocks very interesting.
I was wondering if you'd ever consider making a water clock, as they were extremely important time-keeping devices, and were the main outlet for mechanical skill outside of manufacturing (in advanced economies).
It's also a nice bridging ground before the more advanced mechanical creations you might have to tackle, and can be used to show the basic concepts of gears, etc.
I would love to build one myself, but I don't exactly have a creek in my backyard (also I'd have to buy a lot of parts)
LETS GO NEW VIDEO
You got some purty eyes there.
Cool video, too. It's been fun watching you advance through the ages. Keep it up!
I remember in a Minecraft Modpack with TerraFirmaCraft, there was a mod that added in a wire drawing mechanic. You had to basically make that entiee setup. It used the die, pliers, leather to pull, and a crank to turn. and it was so time consuming. Even for a video game. But it was a very cool mechanic to learn.
use lubrication for drawing wire, also, when forging the wire from ingots/other forms of raw material, let the hammer do the work for you, it helps lessen the inconsistencies
As a chainmailler, it's interesting to see wire be drawn and riveted rings made. I'd love to help on the design part of the armor project (assuming it hasn't already been made), as I've made a few hauberks of my own. I haven't worked with riveted maille yet, and I'd love the chance.
Feel this series is jumping over alot of important developments
This might help. Set a rig up so you can attach it to the end of your forge so you can pull the wire through right after it has gone from red hot to dull again, so the wire can be molded easier by the gauge plate? Essentially reduce the time it takes from annealing to actual pulling by making it one set operation. A little tricky with the heat no doubt, but if done right, I suspect you'll be able to get those super long thin wires you want.
One improvement to your setup would be a gear-driven drum. That will increase the force you can apply, smooth out the force (reducing the risk of breaking), and only be applying force on a small part of the wire at once.
I can already tell this is going to be fantastic. Super excited for giant electronics (who needs miniaturization)
Here's a tip
Use oil
I used to work in jewelry shop and pulling wire to get it to a specific diameter was a daily task, oil helps alot, we usually used I think old motor oil but any lubricant should work
You really should have reinforced that board you were drawing from with vertical boards. You were getting a lot of friction and shear forces on the wire with it wobbling like that.
That's really exciting! I hope you'll dabble in vacuum tubes if the time comes, but electromechanical devices are cool as hell too!
When you make the chain mail and test it, be sure to say if the steel is hardened or not as it will make a big difference to the test results
Watching you draw the copper wire was really cool. I was surprised how long you got it. I dabble in electronics and I have to say honestly that’s the next project you should do with the wire should be a generator of electricity. Would be great if you could use one of your other inventions like the water wheel that could maintain a continuous Motion. Then all you need to do is figure out the magnet configuration and WAMO you’ll have a better source of electricity than your battery pile. It will likely be AC electricity, compared to your battery which produces DC. But you’ll be able to get way more current, which will be much more useful to you with further experiments. Good luck with future developments in this technology. It’s been great to see you get this far!
I cant wait for the telegraph video!!!!!
I wonder if they will try making a vacuum tube to amplify the signal in their eventual telegraph system? TBH that was the most crazy thing I could think of to do with drawn wire. I don't know why I didn't think of electromagnets.
Was that a fiber optic teaser I heard at the very end? That sounds incredibly difficult to pull off at home, even with modern tools and supplies...
Electric telecommunications in a copper wire travel at about 70% the speed of light. Fiber optics isn't exactly faster than copper as all references to light speed are usually in a vacuum. Fiber optics has a lot of advantages, protection from interference from outside electromechanical sources being one of the biggest.
the chainmail wire i would not say it was hand pulled looks very professional
I need this video in a few weeks or months.
Awesome video! I’m excited to see everything that comes from this!
I was literally just thinking last night when you were going to teach us how to do wire!
It's amazing how much work goes into each video. :o
If you have a hard time getting it through a particular hole on the draw plate do it through that draw plate again until it's does it smoothly before moving down a step
This was really cool. Now with copper wire you can make simple relays and with those you can make computers.
making that draw plate must be interesting if tedious, also you really need to lubricate the wire as you draw it
If this series has taught me anything it's that we are screwed if we have to relearn everything. Regardless, I absolutely love this series.
I thought the whole wire subject was very very interesting! I love how he made ita
I challenge you to turn all of your information into a book. Hire an artist and a writer and they can look through all your videos and do the converting. Then print at least one copy on stuff you made your self. Your own paper, ink and what ever print system you want to use.
That's some tough spaghetti
danger spaghetti
There was varnish back in the day and it would allow you to make better electromagnets and in turn motors/generators due to more coils closer together. Actually square wire is awesome for making coils but probably hard to make square all the same diameter
they also made a very simple centrifuge- a spinning top, wound up, and spun at high speed. theirs was to spin candy floss (cotton candy). another can be made to be made to separate fluids in a vial. (go on YT, and it shows how to do this).
Ah, you've gone down the chainmail rabbit hole, and straight to riveted. You're going to love every moment of it. Or hate it.
Insulation might be easier than I initial thought. I suspect the sort of enamel coating used in magnet wire (for how thin it can be) is something you could approximate with a bath of fairly crude chemicals.
The hint about annealing the wire between pulls is obvious in retrospect. Huge deal, preventing work-hardening and breakage. 16ga magnet wire is not bad at all for homemade.
How do you make the die used for pulling the wire, though?
If you have a eletromagnet and a batery that is enough to make an alternator, they are very simple and use no permanent magnets.
Extra points if you make it self exciting by storing the DC voltage in an capacitor
Okay. To the original wire makers; thank you, thank you so much. Unsung heroes of history.
can you make a video about making musical instruments, it would be interesting to see how advanced you could make them with your current technology
I never thought that chain mail was a component of the information age... wild!
Thank you for this Excellent Video!!
Dipping the wire in shellac is probably the easiest way of making magnet wire and you should be able to use it given what you've reached technology wise.
I cant wait for this guy to make a musket
The first step of forging down the stock to something useable could be made easier and more consistent by using a series of rounding dies on spring swages.
cant wait to see you making memory modules with copper wire
I watched a physics professor do a demonstration where he had a copper wire suspended from the ceiling of the auditorium. He had a basket that he kept adding weight to slowly as the wire stretched many feet. I don’t know if the wire stretching was uniform throughout though. That was so painful to watch that wire being drawn without lubricants.
This would help you get to electric circuits. For unlocking electronics you need to master semiconductors or figure out vacuum tubes.
if you aren't going to use lubrication on the draw plate you can soften the metal with a torch placed behind the draw plate.
As a LARPer, ive actually spent many hrs cuttin wire for chainmail; it truly is a laborious project. Ive nvr made my own mail, just done it to help out (fighting/mercenary) company mates makin theirs
I dont think any of them have made their own wire, but i did introduce a bunch of them to forgin, which ive also not personally done xD, with the late and great Grant Thompson's backyard forge video :3
I know some of themve made their own plate armours from soda cans :3 Lots and lots of soda cans heh
Can't you just buy pre-made chain mail? I'm pretty sure I've seen a 19th century machine at a museum which could do it mechanically.
@@eDoc2020 Yes, but a thing about LARPing is that dependin on game you play, doin things more tradtly and makin your own items is a big part of the games; not in like a gameplay advantage way, just in an immersion way
Buyin your own premade chain is rly diff of an exp than makin your own. And it was relatively cheap to make the chain too, cuz theyd get wire from farm supply stores and then use a rig to make a bunch of links to cut out
In the game i play, theres even awards you can earn based on makin things like that. And a made from scratch chainmail shirt can get like a 4th order of said awards for whats rly just tedious, not specialised work
@@SylviaRustyFae I thought you were making custom chain mail armor as a service. I didn't realize it was for your own team. I totally understand wanting to do it by hand, especially if it's set in medieval times.
@@eDoc2020 *Fighting/Mercenary* Company mate*
Tbf, my bad on the confusin verbiage there; yeah, this was a mercenary company mate i was cuttin chain links for
Thanks!