5 Myths about Watercooling that are WRONG!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- Watercooling tends to have a lot of misinformation surrounding it... so let's debunk some of those myths today!
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"Hell Yea" Let's see that loop order thing...
Hell yeah
Agreed! I've blown people's minds at my job telling them exactly what Jay said. The fluid doesn't have enough time to pick up so much heat that putting your GPU first in the loop versus your CPU makes one scenario better or worse. Put them in what ever order you want to... it's not really going to matter either way, and certainly not going to be damaging to either component if you "mess up" the order. I'd love to see a series of temperature probes set up in a loop to actually show the hard data on this. A lot of people will need to pay attention.
Edit: To Jay's credit, he said it better in this video than I have to my colleagues. I might just have to hold up his example!
Fun facts about loop order: I have two thermal sensors in my system, radiator entrance (hot water) and radiator exit (cold water). In normal case it's about 31C and 30C, so the difference is about 1C after both CPU (14900k), GPU (4090) and two pumps (they also add some heat into water).
If I lock pumps rpm to 800 though cold water is close to room temperature and hot water climbs past 40C. And components temperature also climbs quite high (gpu about 70C). So it's not even about loop order but flow is too low to cool down components.
@@deadlymecuryyeah I ran double temps sensors for a while and pretty much as soon as you start seeing big deltas it’s a sign that pump rpm are probably too low and there’s a flow problem more than anything else.
@@helljester8097 yep. And because of that it would be nice if corsair added delta between sensors as rpm control. In that case you could use difference between hot and cold water to control pump and difference between cold water and room air to control radiator fans.
"Putting water into your computer" sounds exactly like putting a "fire inside your house" but of course, nuance is important and the fire is in a chimney and the water is in tubes.
age? not rly more like coolant just shreds through the plastic innertube and removes abit of plastic every time, but mx 8 year old tubes still hold together to this day daily use so..😅@@elitepauper7400
True...but my brain still can't accept that it's a good thing xD xD xD
Ofcourse it's fine... but I simply cannot get over the fact of putting liquids in my electronics xD
@@RicochetForce Yeah, chimneys fail if they're put together terribly and aren't maintained as well.
@@RicochetForce Fine, you have a great pair of pointers. (zing)
I'll change from "chimneys" to "put gas and lighting it up inside your house" which is actually tubes with gas as well that you light up on the stove. We've had explosions. Is that better?
I hope you don't have a fire in your chimney
As a middle aged man with a kid and career, I moved away from water cooling and just invest in higher end air cooling options entirely because if something goes wrong I simply don't have the time to deal with water cooling anymore and I don't want my primary rig down for weeks because I can't find the time to properly fix something. For the same reason I also like larger cases so there is plenty of room to work inside the case.
@@RealGengarTV 3 and 9 months is rough on the time, it gets better though. Mine is 10 and has a PC of his own he spends a lot of time on (programming actually, he might be on that nerd path even earlier than I was).
I'm in my 60s and have a hard time justifying water cooling when I can get something like a Thermalright peerless assassin for less than 40 bucks. No pumps, no tubing no hassle.
Should have kept the water cooled PC and skipped having the kid.
Air is great. I can just build it one time. Let it run and then very rarely clean it a bit... And with something like Noctua even if the fans break it is still big enough to work with only case fan or even passive manner.
@@lifespanofafry1534 Never had either but from what I've heard, the older water cooled systems leaked sometimes but not as much as kids.
Interesting anecdote; Both my PS3 and my 360 spent about 30 hours at the bottom of a pool (don't ask), and me and a coworker were able to get them running again by disassembling them, dunking everything in alcohol and letting everything dry before reassembly. That was 11 years ago and both still work.
Wonder if I can do that with my kid's Switch Lite. Probably been too long though lol
@@chexmixkitty If it's been dry for a long time and wasn't charged while it was wet, give it a try. You can't break it more.
A bag of rice works well for drawing moisture out of things that aren't easy disassembled. The issue with a Switch is it has a battery and things have a current when not plugged in so things can short out. That said, I've done it with non-waterproof mobile phones successfully @chexmixkitty
The thing that kills electronics isn't the water itself its the electricity going where its not supposed to, that and letting the magic smoke out.
@@gideonschlen4022 I don't mean any disrespect, but rice doesn't do anything but get rice into small places where it doesn't belong. You're better off just opening the case and letting things air dry if possible.
But yes, the battery in the Switch could be a problem, but it may not be a death sentence.
Yes do that temperature comparison.
Mistakes I've made watercooling over the years:
1. Forgetting to put a drain in my loop.
2. Putting a drain in my loop with a T junction that had a super crappy ball valve attached to it that would free spin 360 degrees on the handle part of the valve instead of just going 0 degrees for on and 90 for off. This was fine for years because I was always smart enough to put a cap in the open end of the ball valve before firing the pc up, until the one time I wasn't. The ball valve was at around 89 degrees instead of 90 and it resulted in something like putting your finger on a garden hose, sprayed coolant straight into my expensive PSU, which then shorted out and died.
3. Thinking I would be fine just diluting my loop of premix coolant with distilled water over and over to the point where it was probably 1/3 premix, 2/3 distilled water. Turns out the chemicals in premix are super important and they stop algae growth among other things. Clogged the loop with gross algae schmoo that made me replace 2 rads and my pump.
4. Used Corsair soft tubing. This stuff is garbage that will kink up super easily and impede flow in your loop. I hate recommending EK products now but their soft tubing is the best I have ever used.
I will never put distilled water in my loop again unless it is to be mixed at the appropriate ratio with a concentrate. Buy enough coolant to sustain your loop until fluid change time, it's worth it.
Imagine....all that time wasted that could have been spent gaming. Slap a D15 on it with a graphene pad and be done with it. Forever. This whole liquid cooling thing is an illness. Like fentanyl addiction.
@@Lurch-BotDunno about that. Slap water in my system, have it run for 2-3 years with zero maintenance, maybe flush it once after that - because why not.
Think my current CPU loop has been running since whenever the 5900X was released, with zero maintenance.
Before that it was the time between the 1800X and 5800X.
Low temps, no noise.. seems fairly decent to me. Price however.. that one I can't beat air on.
.... I just like seeing my GPU at 24c, and my CPU at 26c. And never approaching the 70s, 80s, what not.
Man. What did you do with the loop? Spitting in it? I have few bottles of ‘reserve’ tap water and it sits at my balcony for months and not a single sign of algae
They there are advanced mistakes, meanwhile I am forgetting to remove the tape on my ssd heatsinks
@@Lurch-Bot I didn't buy air cooler in the last 15 years, but are they still controlled solely by the CPU core temperature? I remember I switched to AIO for the sole reason that it wouldn't jump up and down on the fan speed like the CPU temp goes to max and min under a few seconds. I hated the jet engine take off noise air coolers make. Especially on the latest few gens of cpus where they go up to 90-95 °C by design and your fan curve will inevitably go 100% all the time. Meanwhile my AIO barely ever raises fan speed as it's controlled by the water temp, not by the core temp. I don't mind fan noise if it's constant. But controlling fans by CPU temp is hectic as hell and that sudden changes that drove me crazy.
So has any air cooler manufacturer thought of the idea to put temperature probes in their heatsinks, yet? And then perhaps have an onboard fan controller like my Fractal Design AIO has (although it's controlled by delta-T thanks to my MB).
I really appreciate channels like yours that try to give the viewer the confidence that they can do a task they thought was hard and beyond their skill level. I can't tell you how many videos I've watched to figure out how to fix my car, household appliance, or anything else. I've built computers for 24 years and have never touched water cooling until a few weeks ago when I installed an AIO in my system. Upgraded my AMD CPU and the air cooler just couldn't keep up. It was cheaper to get a 360mm AIO than a good air cooler. So thank you for being one of those channels that tries to boost confidence in people.
YT is great at telling people they can do anything, when, in fact, they cannot. I'm all for learning new skills but there are also bound to be a lot of people out there who will never get this right. This is why being too encouraging can be a bad thing. Of course, Jay isn't the one who is going to pay the price when it all goes horribly wrong so it is easy for him to pump others up to do things that, at least in some cases, constitute bad advice for certain people. If you spent as much time as I do on r/welding, I wouldn't have to explain. Some people are natural welders. Fewer are capable of learning the skill from the ground up. The overwhelming majority of people, when handed a MIG welding torch, will proceed to snot out a bunch of metal boogers that couldn't join themselves, let alone join two pieces of steel plate. It is like suggesting a casual gamer play Elden Ring. That's not what the game is about. You have to enjoy a nice slog through the mud. Your average person won't get it. frankly, I don't get how Starfield is a crap game when it is basically Elden Ring in space...but that's a rant for another day, under the heading of, 'Kids These Days', AKA 'Grow the hell up, Gen Alpha'...
Meanwhile, TechTube has turned into FPS Russia.
@@Lurch-Bot Anyone should be able to do it from about Age 12-13 Upto 90's or 80's aslong as hands still work properly.
If they cannot they would be people with disabilities (be it learning disability or physical limitations.
Its kinda like people who can't drive a manual 25% are just lazy people who don't want to learn.
Most have a Disability that results in a disconnect between their brain and hand/foot to eye coordination.
Also why ALL Pilots can drive a manual without issues even often the first time they drive one they dont stall it,
if you can only drive an automatic you will never be able to get a plane license or if you do will be a bad pilot with uncoordinated turns
@@Lurch-BotI recently did it and made a big mess on my table because I used a small bike pump to leak test, if Jayz didn't give me that tip I would've ruined my computer so the encouragement actually did the opposite of what you think, tldr not everyone is as incompetent as you are.
Thanks. Very good info. I don’t run hot yet because my systems are under powered.
Perspective/tips from someone whose first ever custom loop is now 6 months old:
If you're able to afford a custom loop and feel like you're ready to take the plunge - just do it, it's so much fun.
If you want to 'dip your toe in the coolant', try doing a simple loop for just your CPU as this will be the cheapest and will still look great, as long as you plan it out well.
Also, have fun with the preliminary stuff, like research - do as much as you can, as the success of your build is largely determined by the research phase.
Plan out your loop order on paper in a very rough fashion, then when you have decided on all the parts you want to buy, try doing a more detailed drawing of what you hope it will look like - remember, actually building it is nothing like what you plan in your head - I had to make tons of changes due to small clearance issues in my PC case.
Before getting over-excited about the build itself, try to think realistically about what you are trying to cool and the overall loop arrangement - I thought I could cool a 4090 and 7800X3D with only one 360 rad, and soon found out what 60 degree C coolant temps looked like!
I had to get another 360 and partially tear down my loop so my pump wasn't destroyed (60 degree max operating temp)!
The Corsair Lab channel has a great video on loop layout presented by Greg Salazar.
Similar to above, try to think about how you are going to control your setup - are you going to use an expensive suite from Aquacomputer? Are you just going to set-and-forget by having your BIOS keep the pump at a steady speed? Are you going to let your fans ramp up and down with GPU/CPU usage, or are you going to add a temp sensor to your loop and have the fans control their speed based upon liquid temps?
This area can get really out of hand in terms of complexity, so you might not want to leave it until just after you've finished testing your loop to decide how you want your loop to behave in terms of fans and pump!
Look at Jay's old videos on fittings, coolant and build layout - I got tons of info here.
Remember the 24 pin jumper for the motherboard! - you need this to test your pump/loop before actually booting the PC (it keeps the power 'isolated' to just the pump so the PC will not boot up, just your loop).
Remember to try to add a drain valve to the lowest point in your loop! - If you don't how will you change your coolant easily?
Remember to thoroughly clean your radiators before building! - there are tons of videos on this. The time spent washing the crud from the new radiators will pay off in the long run.
Do not use the style of pressure tester you see Jay using!
- The bike-pump, all-in-one style is very prone to leaking from the pump section and I had this problem. It caused me such a headache because it was my first build and I was lacking in confidence and experience, so I was blindly trusting the pressure tester, so I thought I had a leak when I didn't.
Get the 2-part kind like the Dr Drop Pressure tester - the kind where the pump is separate from the gauge!
Don't bother trying to mix your own coolant - the amount of comments I saw under the research videos I watched where people were complaining about general gunk build-up, growth in the fluid and damaged nickel plating on the CPU/GPU blocks was crazy - the common factor seemed to be that they were all making up their own coolant. Just get a premixed from a trusted brand.
As Jay said, if you want an easier time, just go for rubber tubing - If you want to 'upgrade' to hard tubing later on, it will only require buying new fittings - the least expensive main component in your loop.
Take your time with the build and don't push yourself too much, as this will cause mistakes. Leave it till tomorrow if you're fatigued or getting frustrated. This will also buy you more time to think about your build as it's taking shape - most of the best alterations I made to my build were this kind.
As I said at the top - just have fun with it and enjoy every step in the process. The research, shopping, planning and building phases are all fun in their own way and you never know when/if you'll be able to do another build (the expense!).
I’m about 6 months into my first water loop as well. 4070ti and a 5950x, although I went with two 360mm rads, one thin and one thick (corsairs) just because I wanted the case to look complete/full with loop, glad I did.
Coolant temp is at 22.7 degrees 99% of time.
@@chasechampion3466 Nice - Same for me actually regarding rads. Went with a XSPC ultrathin for the front so my secondary reservoir (I wanted my case to look full too) wasn't too close to my GPU block.
My coolant temps are nowhere near as good as yours (32 deg. C idle 44 deg. after gaming) partly due to my hardware being high energy consumption and partly because it's in Steve Burke's 'favourite' case for airflow - the NZXT H710i !
@@-T--T- nice! I went with the Corsair 5000D airflow.
@@chasechampion3466 I just looked it up - that's a handsome looking case! 👌Wish I could see your build....
Do you have the time to give me a short rundown of your build, or just a small description of the overall theme/design feel?
I'm imagining a super-clean hard line build with clear tubes.
A lot of people don't understand that 300 watts of heat is 300 watts of heat no matter what the actual temperature is or in other words 300 watts of heat at 70C = 300 watts of heat at 80C
However the advantage of 300 watts at 70C is your CPU or GPU can clock a little bit faster but even that difference only means a couple percent increase in FPS or 1 - 3 FPS which is essentially unnoticeable in actual gameplay.
20:42 Jay's humor when calling himself out for the way he said something is always funny. It was a long day, but this particular line about "or your fingers, well *and* your fingers" had me laughing out loud for a bit.
Once in 2001 I had a PC in a high tower which was on the floor and my dog then decided to piss in to my pc and the cabinet was open so everything inside was completely wet with piss. The craziest thing was that there was power but it wasn't on, I removed the power cable and removed all the cables from it and rinsed it with distilled water inside and dried it. When I turned my PC back on it worked perfectly, I guess it just proves that electronics are tougher than you imagine.
i think the dog was mad at your computer, the dog wanted to go out more with his owner😉🐶🐶
Based on a Jayz2cents video, I sucessully built my first custom loop with bending hard clear acrylic including CPU, GPU, VRMs, memory and 2 360 radiators. 2 years later it is still going strong. Thank Jayz!
Would love to see you make a budget watercooled build - Something with not over the top specs but still enough to warrant water cooling, what value that would be and what performance watercooling a system like that would offer etc. I feel like that would be interesting.
That doesn’t make sense. Why would you go through the hassle for a mediocre to barely good cooling? It’s not easy to build a loop for your specific case. It’s a effing b* to clean but required. A proper case is expensive. Unless you’re willing to spend a minimum of $1k minimum (wc parts + case), it’s better to stick with AIO or air cooling.
@@Paul_Sleeping I don't think you understood what I meant. I was saying it would be cool to see a water-cooled build that wasn't an i9 and 4090, maybe something lower high end tier with mid tier water cooling parts for "water cooling on a budget" so to speak.
@@guacamoly-. Gotcha. Sorry I misread.
@Paul_Sleeping meh... you can get away with $300 for a budget CPU loop. With the ability to add in the GPU for around $150 more block + rad(depending on block price). You simple don't have to buy over priced parts... and at the end of the day, you will get the same performance.
As for case. That's just needless gate keeping. A; if your case is remotely modern, it should have space for 1 or two 360mm rads, maybe a 360mm and 280/240. Either of which is enough for all but the highest end PC parts. B; if for some reason it doesn't. There is nothing stopping you from external applications. At worse, you can get a fantastic case for $150. Or a ton of other options in the $70-$120 range.
@@guacamoly-. IMO issue lies with graphic card cooling. Getting full cover for lesser models are rare, and if they are present, that price is going to be... hard to justify, especially for middleweight card. Universal core-only blocks I presume still exist, but then you need to sort out memory and VRM cooling, as those are usually cooled by the same chungus that handles core. Thus, bunch of small radiators to be glued with adhesive pads and/or arranging airflow. Then, any better-ish AIB models have plenty good cooling without being loud, further reducing gains from watering the card.
For CPU cooling only, lets be real - AIOs come in all shapes and flavors and they are almost universally cheaper than DIY loop while having similar to identical performance. And then nothing stops you from modifying it - longer/different tubing, adding reservoir of sorts for filling and bleeding. Unsure if pump can handle extra resistance of adding GPU block into the loop though.
Just got a new case and added a new rad to my loop. No need to upgrade any parts, but I'm glad I got in and added new fluid and cleaned the blocks.. these barrow and barrowch fittings have held up just fine. Reusing parts is awesome
I have used ek, bitspower etc for fittings and I also have a lot of 90 degree fittings from Barrow. I haven't found much between any of them except for price. I like EK torque fittings because they are easy to tighten up but I'll use the Barrow 90's 45's t fittings etc all day long.
All of my straight fittings are Barrow - they're really good quality and look good too.
Really pleased with them so far.
Watching Jay videos is literally like getting advice from a dad. It has such a warm tone to it with some excellent advice.
Jay I water cooled my PC long before anything was available. I made my own parts without any help back around 1990. I just understood that thermal mass is the bottom line. Yes my first time used a heater core out of an 84 cavalier and a fishtank pump. Blocks were all aluminum blocks with fittings drilled in and some fins cut in for passive heat dissipation. No there were no fans on any of it because there was no such thing as motherboard headers. But I could push my system way faster than stock. No temp monitoring in those days so who knows what the real world benefits were. My current system is water cooled also. Nothing fancy expensive it just works.
That's awesome. I made mine in 2004 out of a 77 Bonneville heater core, and a modified fountain pump. I'm still using that heater core.
I think I did my first watercooling around 1996. Fish tank pump, some kind of custom brazed brass or copper waterblock, a reservoir that went into a couple of 5.25" bays and a tiny little radiator. Didnt make as much heat back then, so the crude quality didnt matter so much, but it was fun to do.
@@chrisdrews978 Placebo effect, even on a Pentium. They didn't even use thermal compound on the heatsinks because it was questionable whether you even needed one. I have a NOS Radio Shack Pentium/MMX heatsink and fan in my collection and it would have been overkill unless you planned to overclock. I also have an Am486DX4-120 that came with a small heatsink and fan. But I ran my 486 DX2-66 back in the day at 120MHz and it didn't need a heatsink or fan. I used it for a couple of years for gaming and then sold it to a friend who used it to compile software for a couple more years because my OC tune had it doing integer like a P75 and FP like a P60.
Now we're talking. These are the true hardcore water coolers!
@@Lurch-BotThey absolutely used heatsink compound with those heatsinks. It had been known for decades at that point that a heatsink needs an interface material of some sort.
And it was not "questionable" whether one was needed or not. We were well into "heatsink required" territory at that point.
I’ve been doing custom loops in my personal rig for the last seven years and it started with your videos. I watched your videos over and over and over and finally decided to take the leap and do soft to me. I still do soft tubing, but like you, I’ve switched to the black tubing because of the plasticizer issue.
I'm still stuck on clear and dang it my cursor was hovering over black tubing from Amazon. Should've taken the plunge!
Mixed metals and soft tubing loop with dual pumps, 360 and 120 mm rads, the fluid is an automotive antifreeze, de-ionized water and hy-per cool mix, I blast it every few months with an aquarium UV light to sterilize the fluid and kill any growth. It's been running almost 5 years - no corrosion, no growth or buildup, no fluid changes just keep it topped up. Your channel really got me started into PC liquid cooling, thanks Jay!
I don't think you need UV light that is pretty overkill. I doubt that antifreeze will grow bacteria, a kill coil and or just not putting it in direct sunlight is enough to avoid algae
take a uv led strip, wrap it around clear tubing and cover with heat shrink. make those led headers useful.
Dude, I have been watching you for many years and am glad that you are getting back to your roots. All this fanboy non-sense and manufacturer drama is not interesting to me at all. I love when you build custom water-cooled systems. All my computers are water cooled. I keep reusing and upgrading my water-cooling components. Some of the computers have had up to 5 or six different motherboards over the years. Please get back to your roots. THX IE: Custom built NZXT H440 case from 2015 with 6mm tempered acrylic door, gutted front drive area and made panels for PS basement, floor and side to mount pump/reservoir.
As a recovering Chemical Engineering major that did lots of heat exchanger design problems in school, I'd very much like to see inlet and outlet temperature probes on all the components in your water loop and in as many different configurations as possible. Especially interested in getting supply and return temps on as many different models of radiator as possible under differing load conditions.
You say that like the idea of liquid cooling a gaming PC wasn't patently absurd to begin with. WTH kind of scientist are you?!? Surely a chemical engineer must study thermodynamics🤷♀
@@Lurch-Bot I'm sure you're correct, but I'd like to see the data to go with your hypothesis. And since Jay has so kindly offered to gather that data on his own time and money, I see no particular downside to letting him do so and then studying the results. But you do you.
Gonna second that, not a scientist or anything I'd just like to understand how it functions. Data definitely is eye opening when it comes down to specifics
It was an expensive initial cost, but I don't regret going custom loop one bit. Been using the same pump/res combo, fittings, soft tubing, and CPU block for multiple years now. The GPU blocks when I decide to upgrade are a punch in the gut, but I accept it. My main reasoning for continuing to have a custom loop in my system is silence. 2 60mm 360 rads and a 40mm 280 rad in my system cooling a 14700k and a 7900xtx.
Yeah...CPU blocks are almost eternal, but GPU blocks? Well if you want a different card, you are pretty much screwed (unless you are willing to do awful lot of DIY to make it fit).
I do plan on replacing my EKWB Velocity 2 CPU block with an Alphacool Core 1 Aurora block very shortly.
The reason I use a an aircooled pc is silence. I listen to music with open back headphones and a pump running with a minimum of 2k rpm 24/7 is not helpful.
@@dr.brennstab2201 LOL, my pump is silent at 2k rpm.
@@dr.brennstab2201 Are you in a sound proof room? if not I don't see how you would even be able to notice a pump. I just turned my pump on full blast and its still quieter than the sounds I hear coming from outside my house
Once the Light Base 900/600 come out, there are going to be some very incredible looking horizontal layout builds in that thing.
I'm looking forward to it.
I'm thinking of doing a Light Base 600 horizontal build.
1. Watercooling doesn't make your room colder
2. Leaks doesn't always ruin a system (not using tap water)
3. Cheap options for loop parts now exist
4. LOOP ORDER DOES NOT MATTER (because of the small size of a PC loop and small delta of temps)
5. Making a custom loop is not that hard especially for soft tubing
A few more myths…
1. Water cooling: Cost VS any level of return.
2. How long before the water cooling almost effectively maxes out after turning on?
3. Possibility of damaging components
I remember my first custom loop, I had to refinance my house
Guys... look at the profile pic on some of the comments so your brain can realize that it's a bot And report it!
Most times it's a pretty lady or a butt pic anyway so it's Not hard to recognise. Nevermind that the account is often less than 1-2 days old!
Don't be dummies and comment / like its comment... just report or ignore them 🤷♂️
Making your space warmer is a great feature of watercooling. The spot were I game has a normal temp of 5-20C. So in winter my cooling system is so efficient that it keeps my room at a fully livable 17C. Summer time is a biy worse, but opening windows generally works well. :)
I did a custom loop for the first time a few months ago, and hearing that a leak isn't necessarily instant system death is highly comforting. I feel like I knew that in the back of my head, but it's still nice to *hear* it. Also just glad for this channel prepping me for years before I tried a loop myself, turned out pretty great and I didn't forget to buy a single thing!
Jay is definitely looking better, that's good. I water cool my pc because it cut the noise way down. Sounded like a jet starting up with the 4090. Now nice and quiet with better cooling.
A more efficient transfer of heat will only make the space hotter if it means the components can run at higher power limits. How fast heat transfers doesn't have an effect on the total energy outputted unless some other factor changes. At most it might affect how fast your room gets hot, but that's about it.
Turn the AC on.
thank you.
Came here to say this but you beat me to it. Jay probably meant that with more efficient cooling come higher power limits and that's why his room gets hotter.
Exactly. 300 watts of heat is 300 watts whether it's removed by air to air exchange or water to air.
@@515PPF 300 watts in an hour or in 10 minutes is very different. Especially in a badly ventilated room.
I had no knowledge or experience in watercooling computers. This channel gave me the itch to customize my own PC loop, and I love it. When this thing is finally ready for an upgrade, I'll for sure water cool my next build as well. It is a great way to make a build completely your own.
“Ambient temperature is important”
My Iraqi ass:💀
"Moooaan custom water loops are a pain..."
Use soft tubing
Use quick disconnects
Use an AIO instead?
Switch components less maybe?
I could go on 😂
That all said, there are deffinitely downsides of course but I would say you only go full custom if you get the top of the line stuff 🤷♂️
Kinda. If you want to go all new with loop, it will not be cheap, you can get a perfectly fine AIO for price of the half CPU loop. Not to mention that anything less then top tier stuff is easily coolable by whatever cheapest twin tower you can find.
@@alexturnbackthearmy1907 True, true.
The problem is that most gamers dont see any benefit running an aio.
A properly specced system should always see the GPU at 100% load and the cpu below that. Doing anything else means you should have gotten a cheaper cpu and spent the savings on the GPU.
Watercooling a gpu can pick up 10-20% performance increase in fps, while running at a lower temp.
Unless you are working a CPU with some kind of production work, an aio is kinda a waste of money.
@Saddedude you will not see a 10-20% fps bump. You won't even see double digit synthetic score bump by running max boost consistently. A 10-20% fps boost is a full GPU tier upgrade. Hell, my 3080 which is one of if not the highest scoring non actively chilled cards, only picked up about 7% in synthetic tests. And that's at 425w, Boosting to 2.1Ghz.
You can force you GPU to hold boost clocks with out excessive cooling. And even holding max clocks, it's barely above margin of error, vs oscillating.
As for an AIO. It doesn't hurt. And with some CPUs is gonna behave better as they can tolerate quick spikes. They can also be useful for case pressure optimization, and of course sff.
@@Saddedude Sure, between a good AIO and an Air Cooler is not much difference in terms of temps/performance.
Even the noise level can be similar.
I guess it comes to what fits best for a specific system and that an AIO Can often be quiter under higher loads.
After watching this channel for a long while, I built a custom loop for my 3080TI. Eventually, I needed to clean my loop, touch-up the thermal paste... basic maintenance, really. I used a bunch of isopropyl alcohol during the cleaning and when I put everything back together, it looked like I killed my card.
In the end, I just hadn't waited long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly, but impurities can mean a much longer dry time than you expect.
if you used 70/30 yeah. most of the ones on the shelf at the market are 70/30 because it disinfects better with some water in it. but theres usually a small single 90+% bottle too at the markets too. I managed to find one that is 99%. evaporates in a couple seconds.
Yeahhhh... liquid cooling isn't really for people like you.
@@Lurch-Bot Yeahhhh... this comment section isn't really for people like you.
I just love the look of water cooling, can be unnecessary if you *DON’T* configure correctly. But seeing a well thought plain loop with nice bends , beautiful!! . Next loop is gonna be black tubing for sure , 6 months left till next flush !!!!!
Yes! Do a whole series on water cooling, please. We need updated information.
What a timing, i was just looking for aome watercooling videos from you :D
I have actually cooled my PC room with water cooling. I have no pump or reservoir in the PC, I have quick disconnects on the back of the machine, and run EPDM tubing up to the corner of the wall and ceiling, through a wall, down the hall, and into my house's central air return. the pump, and radiator are on a 3d printed stand, and a small file server PC is also in there, cooled on the same loop. The 480mm radiator fans and pump are powered by a small independent wall plug 12v adapter. my pc room temps dropped around 10-12f just by pumping the heat out of the room. it's a four liter system.
I always fantasised about having an external loop and put the rad outdoor in winter. :D
Just out of curiosity, if you put the rad in the central air return, wouldn't that be the extracted air? That air would be the at the same temp as in your rooms it gets extracted from, no? How is it lower still than your room temp?
@@TeasutiI would be worried about condensing from the blocks when that freezing glycol/antifreeze comes from the radiator outside.
holy shit man
@@Simon_Denmark yes, it would wreak havoc in the PC. But it would be chilled while it lasts. 😄
@@Teasuti the central air return is the entire house's air return. I'm not moving the heat outside of the house, the ac is doing that as part of its normal duty. By putting the radiator in the central air return I am eliminating the problem of the specific room the pc is in heating up and getting much warmer than the rest of the house, without having a thermostat for the room and retrofit dampers on the central ac system.
Man, the first thing I did after building my water cooled rig was upgrade the room to have an integrated AC unit, I would almost say its essential. Those free standing units are OK but they create almost as much heat as they remove, not to mention the noise.
I used an Aveks water block on my last custom loop, $20 from Amazon for an all-copper water block that keeps my 11700K @ 5.3GHz running just fine. I miss the old days of making a water block out of a heatsink, plexiglass, and glue, using a K5 Blazer heater core for a radiator, and a pond pump plumbed to an automotive coolant overflow bottle but I'm glad we have the options we do now.
I still argue that if you can have a radiator after each component, it helps, but jay isnt wrong. These devices aren't going to melt themselves even when the pump stops running, and youre only talking about a degree or two, AND if you have enough heat transfer capacity, you'll be far below 40C let alone 70C, so there is NO PRESSURE to have a certain loop order, it doesn't need to ideally optimized with sanded IHS, ans liquid metal, etc etc. Using the right water is key, and... this is the most important part:PRESSURE TEST YOUR LOOP WITH AIR FIRST.
The number of times i had one or two fittings just 1/8th of a turn too loose
You might try purified water plus a small amount of copper sulfate. We use it in agriculture to keep algae from growing in water storage tanks.
That's what old PT Nuke is but you don't want to use it with nickel plating it'll ruin it, if you only have copper / brass it'll be fine but most blocks aren't available as copper unfortunately :(
Just mix in some antifreeze.
That's gonna make your coolant acidic. Not a great idea for the application. Also, while deionized water is unlikely to cause a short if it leaks, if you put copper sulphate in the water, it will ensure it is conductive.
I completed my own water loop a week back. I bent hardline tubbing. I owe this channel a lot for the motivation and quick tips when bending. If I can do it, so can you. I had many reservations when approaching this project. But I powered through and my new rig is B-E-A-Utiful.
Do it with Pyrex tubing and I might be impressed. Any fool can bend some PVC tube.
My best myth bust was trying to explain to people that the loop will saturate and all components will receive the same temperatures. After trying to argue the point to exhaustion and annoyance, I just finally started referring people to your channel and videos. Thank you and your team for the work you do and all of the great video's and insight. You are a boon not only for us experienced types, but also for beginners. Please continue to do what you do, and we all look forward to the new expansion.
Roughly the same temps anyways, it can be a few C difference. My system runs a difference of 2c or so under load between the output of the rads and the output of the heat load (I have temperature sensors in both places). It depends on your flow, which is another major myth that you need a huge flow rate.
Jay, do a review on the Aquacomputer Leakshield. Been running it on my soft tube setup and once you get it dialed in it’s amazing. Absolutely zero worries of any sort of water leak throughout the system. Pulling 330mbar of vacuum on the loop and not having any tubes collapsing.
Well done. a fart generates about 3x as much vacuum in your colon. 👏
OK, now do a video about water cooling myths that are TRUE. 😏
I scrolled down specifically to find this comment.
De-ionized water really won't short out your running PC. PEG is probably the only thing you should use in a custom loop. And gremlins are real. You should be particularly wary of them if you desire to do a completely pointless liquid cooling setup on your gaming PC. Things never go more wrong than when you are acting out of pure vanity. If liquid cooling were really useful on a PC, it would be on every Omen; every MSI gaming laptop. The people who advocate for it haven't even studied Physics 101. I've had enough physics to know that the narrow temp differential makes any liquid cooling setup on a PC an exercise in ignorance. You'd be just as well off strapping a 5lb chink of copper to your CPU. Water isn't magic and you're just adding a really big heatsink that a poser like you will never heat saturate to the point of equilibrium, the point at which your fans will be making just as much noise as a purely air cooled build.
You can hype all you want but it won't change the laws of physics.Based on the present hype-weather, it is a myth that water cooling a PC is purely for aesthetics. But that isn't a myth because it is a true statement.
Myths aren't true
@@maiar4505 whoosh
What isnt a myth here?
I would ABSOLUTELY LOVE a video on that loop order deep dive on the Scientific aspects of how the order affects the temps of the fluids! Sounds like an amazing video!!!
So this channel was a major inspiration for my first water-cooled PC. It even got me into modding my PC. I don't think I'll ever go back to air.
I just want a water blocked GPU without spending an extra $300 for it. I swear it used to only cost like $150. Maybe I’m remembering wrong
Yeah my Phanteks 3090 blocks were $200 and 100-120 back in the GTX 400 series era, material cost did raise a bunch though which sucks.
If your water gets blocked, you fry GPU.
Get a byski block and a founders edition card. Save money and get better performance.
Running a byski on my 4070ti and it’s been fantastic.
@@Lurch-Botthere is literally a safety feature in the pumps for flow, if flow stops it emergency shuts down your pc.
Really wanna do my first custom loop build on my first non prebuilt pc
Build a pc first trust me
If you need the extra cooling for a workstation pc with a lot of cores to cool, go for it. If we are talking about a gaming pc. Just don't. It's totally not worth it.
@@dr.brennstab2201 absolutely not worth it from value perspective, this would be a passion build I wanna so steampunk theme
@@dr.brennstab2201what if people like it… it’s the same thing as wrapping a car or going to an expensive restaurant… to each their own why would you tell someone not to do it when it is something they just want to have?
Just make sure to fully attach things O...O
My first video I watched of yours what “how to water cool a computer.” Because of you I’ve been water cooling for 11 years. External rad(s) still, Basic-B bitspower barbs, barb clamps, Primochill Advanced LRT soft tubing, PHN PT Nuke (still), distilled water. Never a leak, never a problem with growth, plasticizer leaching, or anything. Multiple upgrades, have not had any issue, reused some tubes just down to laziness. Started with an Intel 4570T, going strong now with an AMD 3950X, basically the same setup, still the same Lian Li VCR lookin case.
I will always use black EPDM rubber tube. I’ve been reusing the same sets of tube and just trimming for new builds since 2018. Same fittings just cleaned them. Saved me SO much money over the years when doing water cooling.
Funny but, this video actually taught me to appreciate water in my country a bit more, hearing him talking about tap water and "how dirty it is", actually in my country everyone drinks tap water since its really clean over here.
I'm not doubting your water is cleaner than ours, but 95% of the US has crystal clear 100% drinkable water.
The "dirtiness" he was talking about was invisible traces of minerals and organisms found in all tap water everywhere around the world.
Even if your water out of your sink is perfectly clear and has no smell or visible particles suspended in it, you still don't want to use it in a PC because all it takes is a few ppm of gunk and the warmth from the components to cause unwanted growth.
i think you missed his point. it's not that it's "dirty", it's that all water has particles in it, whether it's minerals, chlorine(treated water), fluoride and other natural and added chemicals within the water. there is no such thing as natural "clean" water. there is drinkable and undrinkable water but all water is contaminated, just some of those in small quantities aren't bad for you. if you ever wonder what your water is really like, see if they post it online or ask your local water company for a copy of the water test results.
Good drinking water contains lots of minerals. Just lemme put it that way:
If you drink the water that your cooling needs, you will die from it. If your cooling gets the water you need to drink, it will die. And your tap-water cooled PC will still outlive the distilled water fed you.
I started water cooling around the same time, I didn't even hear of EK until about 10 years ago, I was dedicated to the parts I had for all of that time, a decade or so, then I upgraded everything and wow, it got expensive in that time!
I'm sitting here chanting Deep Dive, Deep Dive, because there are too many people who make it so us more experienced guys have to work so much harder to keep the information correct.
From a complete novice: if you watch a couple of Jayz water cooling videos, they covered everything I needed to know. Hardline isn't hard; just be sure to have the right tools!
The first Myth I laugh at so often as i'm like "Thats literally not how the laws of physics work, the heat doesn't just magically disappear. You've just shifted that heat away from your PC quicker INTO your room, thus making your room hotter."
If your looking toward water cooling to keep your space cooler, you're looking at moving the radiator out the window. There is a series of additional challenges to move the heated water out the window decently such as pump pressure, solar heat, window air sealing, and so on.
Back to the old days of external radiators
Pretty sure it would require a custom loop that pumps in and out of your window AC unit at that point.
Let's GO! I hope your health is getting better Jay.
"It's hot as balls". I'm going to send a message to Stephanie Abrams on The Weather Channel... I want her to start using this phrase to describe the summer weather...
Water cooling is fine, if you actually need that level of cooling. Most really don't. The one thing that isn't a myth is that custom loops are usually more expense than function.
Heat has to go somewhere so it is going into your room unless you can pump it outside. It doesn't just go away.
I have no problem with using water cooling. My problem is the amount of effort and money it costs to build a custom loop. The idea is great but the amount of maintenance needed is beyond my idea of fun! I use an AIO and it's fine. Why would I put so much effort into building a custom loop that won't last as long as my AIO? If you find it fun to build such a system, then good luck to you! My present system includes a Corsair 360 AIO and I'm happy with the result. At present I've been using it for 9 months and I expect to keep it for at least another 2 years no matter what other components I upgrade. 😇😇😇
The upfront cost is high sure but maintenance is not that big. Take one day a year to do a full system clean, blow out dust and drain and refill the loop. If there's block buildup, take it apart, clean it and do it back up. Take a day at most. If you need to upgrade the only ongoing cost is new blocks. Radiators are pretty much good for a decade or more. Pumps are easy enough to replace but generally stable.
@@prototypep4 I appreciate your input but a day's effort to maintain a loop is still more than I want to contemplate. The only maintenance I want to contemplate is dusting and cleaning every now and again!. I don't live in a dusty area so it takes very little effort to keep my PC clean. I guess you could say I'm too bloody lazy but hey! I'm a curmudgeonly old git! I make no apology! 😂😂😂
yes the cost is more for custom and AIOs are great for ease of install, the ability to add more rads is what swings it for me. You don't even have to drain your loop every year if it's just water and biocide and if the pump breaks, you can fix it or replace it.
@@user-ev1tl5rf7o the better and quieter performance is what does it for me. My system has 3 420mm rads in it. I can keep even a gpu under load cool with near silent performance. You just can't match that with an AIO and stock gpu. I mean you could go something like a suprim card but at that point may as well just have a custom loop.
I still use heater cores, gear pumps and a 5 gallon bucket. The only thing I've upgraded over the years is the 'reservoir' going to a metal canister with a 7" t-bolt clamp so I can flush the system once in a great while. 👌
I don't water cool for reasons
1. No need in a closed case unless its an open bench.
2. Too many point of failures
3. Min maintaince required
I think I believed all of these misconceptions before building my own itx 4090 build.
Jay is king of water-cooling.
One reason I don’t like custom water cooling is just the fact if you got a new cpu and you want to upgrade you gotta take apart all that stuff compared to just a air cooler with lots of fans
Your comment got stolen by a bot dude, sorry.
Came to say the same....
@@Nelo390Bots are a plague 😭
Just use soft tubing.
water is just more efficient when it comes to dissipating heat,actually x29 times more than air. (which is why I love watter cooling)
Also style, way more sleek, and is also light on the board unlike all these twin towers.
Always feel free to hit us up with that water cooling content Jay. Your channel is one of the key contributors to pushing me to finally trying to make my own custom loop. That was around six-seven years ago and I am never going back. Yeah it is pricey, but it gives you the best possible pc temps (components anyway), cuts my heating bill in winter (lol), is kinda stressful but fun to do, and gives you a PC that is unique to you.
I had a brand new system with brand new water cooling. Drips from CPU block to graphics card smoked the whole system and burned pins at GPU. To my amazement, and major props, Thermaltake paid me the cost of my new system. I jammed everything in a box and mailed it back to Thermaltake. Glad to still see Thermaltake still around because that's a company with serious integrity.
This was a long time ago, I have no idea what the coolant solution I was using, but I wouldn't be good with anything flowing into components. The industry needs to focus on refrigerant cooling without condensation.
Thanks for all this information. Never wanted to try water cooling over the fear of a leak happening and drying the whole system. Maybe I’ll give it a try later this year with a new build.
I just finished my first custom loop, biggest reason being loud GPU fans, it wasn't cheap but also didn't break the bank, went with almost full Alphacool build, and luckily I can reuse the block for a long time to come, quite happy with the results, still need to buy an leakshield for the peace of mind.
Considering custom loop? feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
I used to use tygon clear tubing and swaglok fittings when I built loops 20+ years ago. Modern fittings are so cheap and good, folks have no idea how good thing are these days. Definitely something everyone should try if they're interested. Everything is easy and you can get everything off the shelf, no more DIY required.
The easiest way to explain how much your PC will heat up your room is with watts like you mentioned. A pc consuming 600 watts of power is a 600 watt space heater regardless of how hot the chip of your CPU or GPU is. 600 watts is 600 watts.
I have been water cooling since 2016 thanks to your videos. Thank you. I would love to see some updated videos to share with people.
Just imagine doing water cooling in the very late 90's early 2000's here in the UK
I've done a few loops for friends using Bykski / Barrow parts and they came in at about half the cost of the same stuff in EK. Systems all still running with no complaints.
Electrical contact cleaner is what I use every Year. It cleans everything with no residue. It works on fans too.
vinegar will loosen tobacco tar from components but contact cleaner is like the nuclear option. Had to go there when refurbishing a nasty old 2060 recently. What I initially thought was a thermal pad turned out to just be a blob of tarry dust, lol. You can also refresh thermal pads with a drop or two of silicone oil, as long as they haven't dried out so much they leave a dusty residue when you pull them off. During initial testing, it smelled like I'd plugged in the Devil's own Glade Plug-in.
Do you use QD or LectroMotive? Or something else?
@@LatitudeSky I use CRC QD contact cleaner.
@JayzTwoCents I totally understand the "hot room while streaming" issue. You've probably already considered this, but just in case... a window AC unit 100% solved this problem for me. I have completely capable central AC, but when my streaming room door is closed, my PCs and lights just cook the room! The window AC unit has made streaming SOOO much better! Just make sure you at *least* have an audio gate on OBS to help with the noise. It's completely doable!
in 2008 I lost some expensive parts, not directly by water contact, but because the pump broke and the water literally boiled in the blocks.
(Thermal throttling was a thing on CPU's then, but GPU's and motherboard chipsets apparently not.)
The pump itself died because of water though, a plexiglass part cracked and let water into the electronics side which corroded, stopping the water flow.
Never again plexiglass. And never had an issue since, been watercooling for 2 decades.
Loop order doesn't matter if you have enough pressure to flow properly. The whole 'thing' is from when people were using pond pumps that barely put out any pressure, and needed huge inflexible hoses to flow any water at all. Liang DDC and D5 pumps fixed that for a lot of people, and we've gotten so spoiled with all the good options since. :)
Related, a myth, you "need" 1/2" ID hose for watercooling. :'D
Hell yeah. A deep dive would be helpful. I'm soon to start my first water cooling loop with hard tubing, and your videos have always been helpful to me on this pc building journey.
I also bought a load of fittings and most of them are Dracaena and they do look fairly good and I would have never of thought to do so but after seeing you video a while back and actually having them in my hands they do look quite good even next to the corsair parts I have. The only reason I did end up buying them was because of the EKWB EK-Tube ZMT having an I/D of 9mm rather than 10mm that my current tubing has, and the Barb fittings I bought come with 13mm hose clamps which are to small to stretch round the hose when fitting on the barb so you will need bigger clamps . The 15mm ones I bought do fit and they are very snug and are wider but does sit between the barb and the knurled area of the fitting.
So here's my part list that will allow me to redo my loop.
*KEALBAUS 15Pcs Barb Fitting Water Cooling Radiator for G1/4 Chromed Copper Water-Cooled Heat Sink for Pc Computer* £14.40
*Sourcing map 10pcs 15mm Spring Band Type Action Fuel/Silicone Vacuum Hose Pipe Clamp Low Pressure Air Clip Clamp, Nickel Plated* £5.69
*Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread, Male to Male Mini Extender Fitting with tighten O-ring, Compression fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £24.96
*Sourcing map Male to Female Extender Fitting G1/4 x 25mm for Water Cooling System Silver Tone 6pcs* £14.99
*Dracaena 6 pack G1/4" thread Male to Female Extender Fitting, 90° Rotary Enhance Multi-Link Adapter Fitting for Computer Water Cooling System, Silver* £19.99
*Richer-R G1/4 Water Fitting Splitter, G1/4 Thread 3 Way T Shape Fitting Splitter Adapter for PC Water Cooling System* £5.96
*Corsair Hydro X Series XF Fill/Drain Valve - Chrome (CX-9055020-WW)* £18.39
Jay, I would love to see a practical build, for those whose priorities are 1) quiet, 2) easy service, 3) smaller and lightweight. In particular, I am thinking Koolance quick disconnect fittings. Small diameter rubber neoprene hose - either 1/4” or 3/8” inner diameter hose. Easy removal of GPU, CPU, change of NVME M.2 without draining loop.
Consider reservoir/pump with 2 manifolds - in and out. Connect parallel loops for each item, rads, CPU, GPU, to the manifolds - no serial loops. Using 1/4” diameter rubber hose is so flexible and corresponding quick connectors are small (but expensive). 4/5 parallel loops have more area than typical 10 mm hard tubing, so pressure loss should not be an issue. May need a controllable valve to balance flows so low pressure drop rads don’t take all of the fluid flow.
Yes. I want to see the temperature comparison loop.
Also, this was great. I learned a lot and I’m thinking about building a new PC and water cooling it soon.
I run watercooling to heat my room, you run watercooling to cool your parts... We are not the same XD
I been doing custom WC for nearly the past 10 years but with my new system I didn't go custom. I just got a AIO and air cooled 4080s. I am perfectly happy with this system and enjoy the simplicity of it.
Jay, your channel is what got me into watercooling, and I've loved it since! I had a leak from my CPU block onto my graphics card, and I only noticed when I took the system apart to clean it; the system ran completely fine. 😅
Good advice, but also a nice trip down memory lane. I was looking at one of my old builds up on the shelf today and thinking about how things have changed. It has soft Tygon (food-grade) tubing, an Eheim aquarium pump, and a Black Ice 1x120mm radiator. I've also been through disasters like a massive fluid dump and I had to clean glycol off of everything (it all survived) and a Swiftech block that galvanically corroded to hell.
I've spent a lot over the years on cooling parts, but now when I change things about which is pretty much every time I do any maintenance, all I have to buy is some hardline tubing. I have lots of spare fittings etc.
Would love to see the 'between component' temp measurement deep drive. Not because I think it's necessarily important, I've seen aspects of it enough to know you're right, but it'd be cool to see the numbers and everything. Always love the science side of things when you guys tackle it.
I just love the way the current crop of big chunky air coolers look compared to the empty fish tank look.
I did my first custom loop back when I had my 8700K. I got a EK 360 starter kit for just over $300. That came with a 140ml pump / res combo, 6 compression fittings, 3 120mm fans with a 30mm 360 radiator, a CPU block and 3 feet of clear soft tubing.
Hey Jay, I did a micro center run yesterday and wore my dad bod and pc mods shirt and actually got complimented on it. Sure as heck made my day.
This video brings around a question I've been dying to ask on the rtfm show. My question is what's the difference in temps between low and high fin density radiators? Love all your content jay and the team.
I stumbled on Barrowtech fittings for some hardline tubing back in 2016. I'm convinced they're just Bitspower fittings without the logo.
They are just a knockoff, stolen BP design.
Reasons why I'm using a Noctua air cooler instead:
Noise (it's simply quieter than multiple fans +pump)
Price (being Noctua it isn't much cheaper but still...)
Mainboard component cooling (it's even a top blower for additional cooling)
Reliability (I don't have to worry about replacing water or leakage, +Noctua fans outlive most systems)
Overkill (My CPU only draws 60W)
I live in Adelaide, South Australia and we get extremely hot summers. The highest temperature recorded in the city was 50.3c but summer days range from 35-45c. This does make keeping a PC cool very difficult, I tried multiple different cases and fan set-ups but not having any sides worked the best.
There are two highly recommended tools, even when doing soft tubing.
Tube cutter, will make things so much quicker and easier. Can use a sharp utility knife, but easier to get straight cuts with tube cutter (the type that look like scissors).
Hand air pump with pressure gauge, will make having a properly sealed loop far more certain, if air isn't leaking, then water won't leak.
It is Monsoon that makes the convertible fittings. I own some and they work well. A retention ring gets glued to the end of the tubing with the screw down ring already on the tube, behind the retention ring. Then when you screw down the outer ring to the fitting on the radiator/block/reservoir it presses the retention ring on the end of the tube into a gasket and seals everything. The retention ring doesn't allow the tubing to come out of the screw down part of the fitting because of the way the Monsoon compression fittings are designed. ModMyToys makes a variation of the fittings with carbon fiber accents also. Those look REALLY nice. I have them in my current system. All of these items are available at PPCs!
Recently had someone try to argue with me about the first *myth* discussed in this video... they would not accept it.. lol
Loop order never used to matter, and 99% user cases still doesn't matter enough.
However I have full temp in outs and my current and best performing order which I'm actually stress testing to heat soak as I write this
Order goes:
Res to 3 AQC D5's (28C)
> 4090 600W (conductonaut)
>(34.8C)
> Rad (31C)
> 7800X3d De-lidded & TG Conductonaut and TG IHS (33.3C)
> RAD
> Res (still 28C)
24C ambient (Australian winter and heated house (Like 3C outside atm))
All Aquacomputer/ Alphacool/ Heatkiller gear etc.
Fans artic PST's
Never used to matter, however when single cards are pulling 600W solid, kind of does now, but only chasing optimum performance.
When I ran loop order same way I always did added about 4c to every one of those temps
Not only the increased heat transfer can heat up your room faster with watercooling, the lower component temperature also can lead to higher boosts and power consumption and this way increase the output even further.
And for cleaning after a leak, I have a colleague whose GPU tube popped off in use due to overpressure and flooding his card. I disassembled it for him, used pressurised air to blow the water from below the components like core and VRAM, flushed it with destilled water, pressurised air again, 99% rubbing alcohol and pressurised air again. It works without issues since. Luckily he didn’t kill it when he powered it on before I cleaned it, he just got a blocky image from the water under at least one VRAM chip.
for me its the price watercool pc sound fantastic but right now prices are all over the place and having someone like you that will take the time to test the budget pc parts will be a life saver so that way we dont overspend in something that maybe be 2 to 5 degrees of heat more than the high end watercool parts