FAILED! Fix the New Hictop, Tenlong Titan Extruder Upgrade before it happens to you too! D3 Pro Hero
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2020
- After several successful prints using the new Hictop Titan upgraded extruders on my D3 Pro IDEX printer, I had a major fail where the whole heater block & nozzle assembly dropped down. It got pushed out by the filament and was rubbing against the build plate when I checked the printer mid-print. It was no longer extruding because the build plate was blocking the filament from exiting the nozzle. This is how I fixed it. The main issue is that the screws that hold the heater block throat in the heat sink are not tight enough. The heat/cool cycles may have loosened them up more, and they became loose enough that the throat slipped out of the heat sink. Check to make sure that yours are tight before printing!
The Hictop D3 Titan extruder is available on Amazon: amzn.to/3gzPZoN
The Hictop (Tenlog) D3 Pro Printer is also available here: amzn.to/2WAfSNW
I have been very impressed by the value and performance of this printer at this price point, although I would only recommend it to experienced 3D printing users.
Filaments I Use:
- I've been using the Taulman 910 Nylon Alloy filament. It retains the best properties of nylon (it's strength, chemical resistance, heat deflection, etc) while adding rigidity. It is much more rigid than plain nylon. I also like their black color. I buy mine from Amazon: (1KG Black - amzn.to/3eESRQ4 ) (1lb Black - amzn.to/3hgkbps ) It's also available in a natural nylon color, amzn.to/30uBKLF but this doesn't look as good as the black.
- NinjaFlex 1.75mm for the stock extruder, but I prefer printing NinjaFlex and other flexible TPU materials in 3mm, and I explain why in this video, and how to convert: • Best Ninjaflex TPU Pri...
- NinjaFlex 1.75mm [Black 1kg - amzn.to/2RBjgVQ] [White 1kg - amzn.to/32H4h37]
- NinjaFlex 3.00mm [Black 1kg - amzn.to/33C0ZNH] [White 1kg - amzn.to/3iJfNQQ]
- Aquatek X1 Water-Soluble Support by 3DXtech - www.3dxtech.com/aquatek-x1-ad... This is a game-changer in terms of printing materials like NinjaFlex where you can't use the same material for support because it sticks too well to itself and is impossible to remove.
- CARBONX Carbon Fiber PC 3D Printing Filament by 3DXtech - amzn.to/3iH6LUH
Installation Instructions did not come with it and took a bit of searching to find, so here's the link to them: drive.google.com/drive/folder...
All Hictop Instructions are on this page: www.hic3dprinter.com/pages/us...
The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video and description may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Tighten... my nozzle? Got it.
Howdy! I bought a pair of these after seeing your vids, made the world of difference to my prints! really impressed by how much easier they are to set the height on, i just folded a piece of paper, let them both rest on it and tightened the grub screws, perfect height offset for both, that screw and spanner setup drove me insane!
I'm pretty late to this party, but I could really use some help regarding parts. I bought a second hand Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, and it came with the Titan upgrades, but I've wound up needing to replace one of the heat blocks, heater unit and thermistor. The problem is that I have no idea just how interchangeable the parts are, and I'm baffled by the variety I've found online (V6 blocks? 100k thermistors?? 12v or 24v heaters???). The block is 16x16x12mm, the nozzle/throat thread is about 6mm, and the voltage switch on the side of the printer is set to 230v (UK), for whatever's that's worth.
In case it's at all relevant, I've also noticed some minor differences between mine and yours, which I'm hoping are just superficial differences between Hictop and Tenlog. Where your circuit board has a space for a bed-level system, mine has a gap for a filament sensor, and the set screws to hold the thermistor and heater are in different places on the block.
In any case, I'd appreciate whatever help I can get.
Hello,
We are carrying out a study that allows the height of the nozzle to be precisely adjusted and to keep it vertically blocked.
This device is accessible and adjustable without changing the structure of the original parts.
to reread you
For this printer? Or any 3D printer?
Same exact thing happened with mine on the second print. Wished that I had checked the screws as well. Works fine after this fix though.
Good to know that it continuous to work fine. I think that they need to add that to their instructions to tighten the screws before use, because it is not a trivial thing to fix. At least it gave me an excuse to tear down the extruder a little.
@@engineerable I’m looking to upgrade the entire hotend. I would like to put a couple of mosquitoes on it.
@@jacobbivens294 What are the advantages of using a mosquito hot end? How difficult will it be to adapt to this extruder? I would like an all metal hot end for higher temps, but looks like the Hictop firmware maxes out at 270C. I would also like the option to run 2.85mm ninjaflex filament since it's more rigid for better extrusion and retraction. For 2.85mm filament, I could use a Teflon liner with a different ID, and if I set that extruder for 2.85mm filament in Cura, it should automatically adjust the flow rate, right?
I modified one extruder to run 3mm TPU filament like Ninjaflex, because it's much more rigid for extruding and retracting than 1.75mm. Conversion video here: th-cam.com/video/pdYxC6sAM3o/w-d-xo.html
I got a pari of these and it caused issues where thermal runaway was triggered every time the pritner turned on. And i filed a paypal dispute and they had me pay to ship it to china for a refund but then once it arrived it was cancled and i never got my refund and two months later i got then back in the mail completely destroyed and mangles. If you could help me reach out to either get new ones or have them finally refund me. I was hoping for better results but turned out to just be a nightmare.
That sounds like a total pita experience. Sorry to hear that. It sounds like the thermal sensor may not have been connected properly. I don't know if I can be of any help reaching out to them, as I am not affiliated with Hictop or Tenlog, just a customer documenting my experience with this IDEX printer.
Great video, thanks. Thinking of buying one but why do you feel only recommended for experienced 3D printing users ? I'm coming from an old Ender 3 and looking for more versatility. Cheers
Sounds like you do have 3D printing experience, so you will be good, especially if you have hands on skills. I meant that I would not recommend this as a first printer to someone who doesn't have mechanical troubleshooting skills. Since you are looking for more versatility, this printer will fit the bill.
I’ve no 3d printer experience… but I swapped my computer’s motherboard and overclocked it, as well as have heavily modified my vehicles with sound and performance equipment… is that enough crossover? Idk… I’m kinda obsessed with dual extrusion and water dissolving supports 🤪😸🙏🙏
thanks for the information, that design looks pretty weak overall, have you tried any flex material with it?
The design, strength, and functionality has been ok besides this issue (especially considering the whole extruder module costs $50). The main improvement that could be made is to significantly shorten the distance between the extruder drive and heater block. Yes, I have printed some with NinjaFlex. It worked, but not nearly as nice as as my Lulzbot Mini with Flexstruder that uses 3mm filament. I had to increase the flow to 112%, otherwise it was under extruding. Retractions with the 1.75mm flex filament suck too. These issues are not the fault of the extruder. In my opinion, TPU filaments that are as flexible as Ninjaflex should only be sold in 2.85mm or 3mm. At 1.75mm t's got all the ridgidity of a piece of cooked spaghetti. At 3mm, it's decently stiff and prints well. So, I bought another Titan extruder, and modified it to run 3mm (Ninjaflex) filament. It works sooooo much better. Look for an upcoming video for that mod.
Watch this new video where I modify one of the Titan extruders to print 3mm diameter Ninjaflex filament. It works much better! th-cam.com/video/pdYxC6sAM3o/w-d-xo.html
Any idea if there is a all metal hot end upgrade?
Since this is an E3D V6 clone, you should be able to substitute the hot end for an all metal hot end. I think there will still need to be a tube (Teflon) between the extruder gear and the heat sink directly above the heat break. I believe the original extruder is all metal.
@@engineerable there’s lots of newbies on Amazon leaving 1⭐️ reviews because they think it’s not all metal because of the Teflon tube…. 🤪🤷♂️
@@It-b-Blair I believe that this is not an all metal hot end. The reason is that the Teflon tube descends into the heater block zone. In an all metal hot end, the Teflon tube should not extend below the heat sink. Therefore the Teflon tube is exposed to the higher heat of the heater block. See the difference in the image here - www.fabbaloo.com/2020/03/is-your-3d-printer-killing-you-slowly
And here - www.matterhackers.com/articles/top-reasons-to-upgrade-to-an-all-metal-hotend
Is anyone able to find these anywhere? The amazon link shows unavailable and I cannot find them on the mfg website. They are also not showing up anywhere else I can find on the internet.. Any help is really appreciated.
They are probably temporarily out of stock. The same thing happened when I went to buy extras a while ago. Then they were back in stock after a few days.
@@engineerable Thanks I will take a look in a week or so and see if it changes.