I got my S2a in 2001 as a birthday present (I used Hasselblad 500cm in my pro days) anyway I was asked by a friend who was writing a book about his life and he wanted me to take the photo for the book cover. I had this Bronica that I hadn't tested yet and just had to rely on faith. We did the photo shoot, and I ran 5 rolls of fuji astia 100 through it. All of the images were spot on save the bracketing half stop ether side, every shot was tack sharp wide open. I was using the lens that came with it, a zenzanon 100mm f2.4 Everyone in church were totally shocked at the results from this ancient film camera, not to say the art director who was going to scan them. Not only was the image selected used for the book cover but also promotional posters. As a side note, the images shouldn't have been in focus because I didn't know about the possible focusing issues that were reported when the cameras were first sold. The foam used by bronica was organic, and after the cameras sat in the shop for a while, the focusing screen would drop as the foam decomposed.
Nice! Yeah, Bronica lenses were always great. Even the couple of bad ones still perform relatively well and can be found performing exceptionally in some settings. The 100mm is a particular standout, too. Actually, I have a video this week that's going to review the Zenzanon MC 80mm f/2.4 (Thursday I think) and then there are two more Bronica lens reviews scheduled for December. I have yet to meet a lens for this camera that disappoints me (though the Komura 100mm f/2.8 is the weakest one that I won, it's still good.)
These have been three of the most helpful and informative videos I have ever seen on TH-cam. Absolutely brilliant. Not a wasted word, no silly background music or special effects, just pure information well shot and superbly delivered. Thank you so much David.
😀 Thank you! I tend to think that the thumbs downs on my videos come from people who were looking for a different level or detail or who expect camera reviews and manuals to be Wikipedia article readings.
@@DavidHancock Great content. I really appreciate it. I have a S2A that has been sitting in a box for many years. Knowing how way leads on to way I'm glad that I have a chance to give it another go. Going to get it out and take some pictures. Hope it has held up over the years. Thanks again.
A month ago, or something like that, I got interested in film photography again. Found my old negatives and a simple scanner. I also started to look at information on medium format cameras. A favorite was the Rolleiflex. Then the Yashica Mat and the Mamiya C330. Figured I just could never afford a Hasselblad system. Then I saw the Mamiya RB system and liked it a lot. Until I saw your video on the Bronica S2A and now... It's my fave :-) Not all too big and not too complex. Still has a lot of possibilities.
Thanks for all your videos on the S2A, I just finished them all and have one on it's way from Japan now, It'll be my first foray into Medium Format and you've made me very excited about my choice!
I've been interested in photography technique for 40 years or more and still learned a lot, interesting stuff in this video. How diverse and varied this Bronica system really is! I don't know if I'm now running to a store (looking desperately on ebay) to buy the Bronica S2a to use all my large format lenses that are now just in a drawer, but now I know that it is actually possible with the right accessories... thanks!
Great miniseries! Let these play in the background as I messed with my brand new S2A. The specifically helpful part was in ep2 where you quickly took the WLF off. The manual said to 'press up' which I couldn't figure out. Mine came with the three regular lenses and the Bronica bellows but I'd be really interested in getting some of those tele options you showed here!
Great review however if anyone is considering purchasing one, make sure you actually are buying an S2A. In general, the S2 has small metal "wings" on the strap lugs, the S2A does not. Japanese dealers seem to sell these all the time and mis-identify. I suspect some know better but can get more cash for an S2A so they play dumb and say "late model S2/S2A" in their listings. The S2A is a different, improved design. Another way to identify if you are buying one: Serial numbers over 150000 on the body are S2A's, lower numbers are not as well as the angle of the bevel on the advance lever. There are some great videos on TH-cam that explain the differences. Worth watching before you buy.
Thank you. There were some S2A bodies with the wing-type strap lugs and different-than-Internet-truth SNs. Given that this camera has the S2A gearing inside of it, which I know because I took parts of it apart to repair it, I'm going to stick with this one being an S2A. But you are correct that many auction listings provide incorrect info and that most S2A bodies have the much better strap lug design.
@@DavidHancock That is good to know (about the lugs). It would be great to see what the difference is in the gearing. Wonder if anyone did a video about this? Beautiful camera and thanks for all the great videos!
Hi David great video's. I found one of these cameras at an estate sale yesterday. The gentleman was a wedding photographer. My question is my body serial numer is CB 97116 S2A. Would this be a factory upgrade to make a non S2A into an S2A? Any answers would help. Thanks scott. PS most beautiful camera ive ever owned.
Nice find! I honestly am not sure. It's been so long since I made this video, I don't recall. I agree, though, that this is the best-looking camera. I still use mine often and love it.
thank you David for the beautiful video. Questio about flash: wich time of shutter speed is sincronized with a electronic flash in position X? Thank you
Thank you! For X, that's the X shutter speed and slower. Anything faster and the entire frame is not exposed by the flash because one of the shutter curtains will cover part of the frame.
I was wondering... Van you do micro-adjustements to the lensmount or helicoid? Mine cannot focus on infinity... Have a 75mm Nikon 2.8 and a komura 150 3.5...
Hello David, your videos are fantastic and easy to follow along with. Question: is there a way to calculate the angle of view for the adapted large format lens? ie. you are using a 105mm - does that act like a 47mm (0.45 conversion) or am I way off? thanks!
Thank you! So a lens of a given FL well have the same angle of view hard on the camera format. So let's say that you had a 200mm Bronica lens and a 200mm 4x5 lens. They would project the same image into the film plane.
Thanks so much for these videos! Do you know specifically what brand of tubes you bought that have the 57mm threads for mounting the leaf shutter? I bought a set with the interchangeable mounts, but the threads are just a bit too wide, more like 58mm maybe
Thank you and I think these are the exact ones that I bought: www.ebay.com/itm/Macro-Extension-Tube-Ring-for-Pentax-PK-K-Mount-Kx-Km-k7-5-K200D-K100D-K20D-K10D/251208577537?hash=item3a7d32b201:g:SagAAMXQWlFRtyMQ&frcectupt=true
Hey David, firstly awesome triology of videos, very helpful and very informative. I was wondering what your opinion is on getting the Bronica as a backup to a Hasselblad. Apart from the shutter difference I am liking the fact the shutter speed goes up to 1000th. Would like you professional opinion on my reasoning. Many Thanks
Thank you! Were it me, I would try to stick with a backup that uses the same lens system if you're planning to shoot them on the same day. That cuts down on what you have to carry. Now, if you wanted to use the Hassy for professional or high-end work and have the Bronica to experiment with or shoot for other types of work, then it makes a bit more sense. But even I've stopped carrying overlapping cameras of different systems on shoots because the added weight is hard to manage. (The exception, of course, is video and still where my video cameras have to be a different system.)
Thanks for the 3 videos David. Especially this last one! I have just bought a Kodak Aero Ektar 178mm f 2.5 lens, do you think it is possible to connect it to my Bronica S2a?
Thank you and in theory yes. I don't know the exact focal length on the 178 from the rear element to the film plane, but if it's longer than this camera's mirror-to-film distance AND if the rear of the lens will fit into the S2A's throat, it should be. Focusing will be a significant issue. If you adapt a standard focusing helicoid and obtain infinity focus with it, you're likely not to get focus much closer than 20 feet (guess) with the standard helicoid's throw. For comparison, the Nikkor 18cm f/2.5 has a LOT of focus throw in the helicoid and still only gets to around 7 feet, and it's a comparable-spec lens to the 178. SK Grimes MIGHT have an answer. They know LF gear well but are not Bronica experts (that said, they did fix my 18cm lens, but at that time did not have an S-mount Bronica in house for testing.) I'd still shoot them a message and see if they think it's doable. If the rear of the 178mm is narrow enough an M65 helicoid might be a suitable start for an adapter.
Great video, It explains a lot. Happens that I’ve a similar model, serial number starts with CB. I was wondering if I need to put some film in order to test the speeds. Does the camara works without film? Ot is it just a problem that I have? Thanks so much for the videos.
Thank you! The camera will work mechanically without film but will not record an image. You can point the camera with no film back and no lens at a lamp and run through the shutter speeds to get an idea of their timing. You won't get exact reads, but as long as they seem twice as fast or twice as slow, they're probably fine. These cameras have held up well.
@@DavidHancock thanks so much. I finally did it in a weird way, charging the shutter without the filmback. This morning I set an Ilford Delta 100 asa, let’s see how it goes, in Cuba the light is really hard, so I’ve chosen 100 asa. Is gonna be my first medium format roll, I only know 35mm. Thanks again for the videos, it helped me a lot.
Hey David, I have the nikkor-q 105 lens. Is it supposed to stay closed after releasing the shutter? Or should it open back up after the shutter is released?
Oh boy, I think so because that's how you would use bulb mode with leaf shutter flash sync, but mine doesn't work as a leaf shutter lens so I had to disable the leaf shutter anyway.
So I’m having a hard time trying to decide between an S2a and an RB67. I know each have shoot different frame sizes. I want something that’s mechanical, have film backs and be portable. I’ve been getting asked by some family and friends to do various photo shoots so I’m wondering if a 6x6 would limit me
Well, I'll be selling my RB67 when I finish taking photos with it and keeping my S2A if that helps any. The only reason for that for me is that I have 6X7 covered with Pentax and the RB67 is very heavy on long hikes. The Bronica is, too, but less so. In many important ways the RB67 is a superior camera -- newer and with optically better lenses. Also the motorized film back on the RB67 is a great addition to a kit.
I just picked up a set of Bronica extension tubes for my S2a. I’m confused by the extension tube chart in the official Bronica instructions. It notes a magnification rate and exposure multiple rate for each Bronica lens and various combinations of the extension tubes. I’m assuming the “exposure multiple rate” relates to the increase in exposure required to compensate for the tubes. For example, using all the tubes, CA+CB+CC+CD on the 75mm lens has an exposure multiple rate of 4.3 and the magnification rate is 1.08. I don’t think this means I need to add 4.3 stops based on what I’ve been reading on line because the articles indicate more like two stops. I’ve read various explanations on line but they indicate the “exposure multiple rate” is not the actual number of stops but it’s a ratio. Can you shed any light on the information provided by Bronica?
So with macro work you need to account for the rule of inverse squares. If your exposure multiplier is 4.3 then you need to multiply by 4.3, and that's pre-reciprocity failure. For instance, if you have a one-second exposure then you need to count up 4.3 stops -- 2 -> 4 -> 8 -> 16 -> 18 (roughly for 4.3 stops) seconds for a 4.3 multiplier. Then cross-reference that time with your film's reciprocity failure chary. The magnification rate of 1.08 is equivalent to 1:1.08, meaning 8% larger than true-to-life. Macro work with tubes and bellows drastically increases exposure times.
David thanks for this 3 part series, it was a great help to me as I'm looking to get this camera. I recently found one for sale (private sale) with 2 120 film backs, one is a 6×4.5 also 3 nikkor lenses the 50mm f3.5, 75mm f2.8 and 135mm f3.5. Both waste level and prism view finders and last of all the pistol type hand grip. It's been for sale for a number of weeks possible even a couple of months and he has dropped the price from £600 or $790 to £500 or $660. Assuming it's in working order is this a good price or do you think there's a bit of room for movement or should get it quick. Going by prices on Ebay I think its quite good but what do you think, he's selling the kit to help fund a large format camera.
That's an okay deal. The film backs are great. The viewfinders are great. The 75mm is good if it's the right version. The 50mm flares like crazy because of the 82mm front element. The 135 has a middling reputation but I've never tried it to speak first-hand. On the 75mm, of it's the HC, jump on that deal as that's apparently an amazing lens. If it's the P.C. it's a good lens. I forget the designation of the earliest version, maybe just P, and that lens is only okay. I'm lukewarm on the Nikkor 75mm P.C. I had, however. Were it me, I'd try and negotiate down. If you're up on things that can degrade camera value, that will help. When you inspect it, field strip it. Check that the focus is smooth, that the lens mount feels secure, and that the apertures are clean and work well. Check for fungus in the lenses. Check that the foam around the focus screen is good (it will need to be replaced unless the camera was serviced in the last 20 years.) Lastly, here's your secret weapon, bring a piece of clear acrylic, like 1.5mm thick, no more than 2mm. If you don't have one handy, as most people don't, it's worth the few bucks to order one online. Order it or cut it to 6x6 cm. Sand it with 400 grit to make it frosted. Focus the lens on something close (having a tripod helps), open up the shutter in bulb and lock the shutter open. Bring a cable release if needed. Pop open the film back and remove the caddy. Place the ground plastic, ground side facing the lens, where the caddy had been. Check that focus matches. If not, which is likely, then you'll need to replace the foam under the mirror. That will be a good negotiating point and should let the seller know you know what you're buying and that the price you're offering is the one you will go with. Go in with a max price in mind and be willing to walk if he won't meet it. I've never walked away from a camera purchase and regretted it.
@@DavidHancock that's great when going into a deal get the poker face on and at least look as if I know what I'm talking about lol thanks for the advice. G
I have a Bronica S2A and just got a nikkor 105 leaf shutter lens. While trying to figure out how to use this, as I can't find much on the internet. It seems to me that as long as the shutter on the camera is set longer than the shutter on the lens, the lens shutter will be the correct exposure. Am I on the right track?
You are on the right track. I think that the leaf shutter works best with a very long exposure time, like bulb, but my leaf shutter mechanism is not properly functional so I modified mine to just work like a normal lens. Try different settings without film in the camera and with the film back off look through the camera. if you take a photo can can see an exposure from the leaf shutter through the focal plane curtain,you're probably doing it correctly. Then give it a go with an inexpensive roll of black and white film and keep track of your leaf shutter and focal plane shutter settings for each exposure.
Just bought a late model S2 for next to nothing with a 75mm lens (99038 serial number for the body). What strap do you find works best with the butterfly lugs?
Nice! You would need an adapter to connect a strap. They came with the cameras but many have been lost. I don't use a strap with mine because the strap connectors can scratch the finish.
@@DavidHancock ahh gotcha. I saw some photos of straps with adapter looking things on them while doing my research. I probably will end up with a custom one that won't constantly brush against it. I like having such a heavy camera on a strap even when it'll spend most of its time on a tripod. Now there's been some controversy behind whether mine is an S2 or S2A. It has the same film advance knob as your S2A, but no S2A and the end of the serial number. I came across an older forum where someone stated that the cameras made for and sold in Japan did not have the early S2As identified with an S2A after the serial number. I don't know how true this actually is but the person I bought it from stated it was all original and that no parts had ever been fully replaced (like the crank knob) and that it's just been maintained with some foam replacements and dust cleanings. I feel like I have an S2 but the knob from everything I've been told is a tell tale sign of an S2A. What other ways do you have "visually" to confirm this? And lastly, your 3 part series gave me the confidence and excitement to go out and actually buy one. I come back to this series every noe and again as it's amazing content and I always feel like I take something more away from it each time. Thank you so much for your treasure trove of information!
Just picked up an S2A. Thank you for these videos. They have been super helpful. One question: Does the Nikkor 200mm F4 require a different bayonet than the nikkor 75mm F2.8?
Thank you and it might. I forget if that lens specifically does. There are the large and small bayonets , and the lenses that mount on the large typically have a ring that they attach to and that ring mounts onto the camera.
I didn't know that the Bronica own brand lenses were made by Topcon (and I didn't know this) I would like to think they would have been made by Topcon because as you said in your last video the 100mm f2.4 Zezanon is a truly spectacular lens, mine was tack sharp!
I love the 2.4. It's an amazing lens. I know that Nikkor made many, and also Komura as a third-party maker. I forget if Topcon, Yamassaki, or another firm made the Bronica-branded lenses.
Hi David, love your sharing about using this system to adapt large format lens, can you share a closer look and brand of your 34mm to 57mm ring ? Thanks.
I see they are available from RAF cameras (Belarus) but will ship to North America - the adapters are around $25 and it lists which shutter it is for. Cheers!
IIRC, the S has a fixed focusing helioid, correct? If yes, then the lenses that need to go into the S2A's large bayonet mount, like the Nikkor 105mm f/3.5 leaf shutter, will not work. However, the lenses that fit in the S2A's removable helicoid, like the 80mm f/2.4, 75mm f/2.8, and Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 and f/3.5, and many others, will work.
Hi David, a new S2A user here thanks for this series which is a great starting point for me. I would like to know the details around 1 min where u put in a leaf shutter lens. What is the model of that lens and how to judge if a lens can be used the same way perfectly by S2A/S2? According to the manual, “Lens mount - Bayonet type (Bronica mount), also equipped with screw mount (57mm x 1 mm pitch). Large bayonet mount for long telephoto lenses” I believe the leaf shutter lens you inserted is an example of the 57mm x 1mm pitch one but I have no idea what exactly that means...
Hey, Joseph, So a 1mm thread pitch is standard in cameras and basically it means that the threads in the screw move laterally along the mount 1mm every full rotation of the thing being screwed in. So your first step would be to get some of the no-name macro rings with a 57mm thread (typically Alpha and EOS but generic and with swappable mounts) and use those as your lens tube. Whatever lens you mount (it will need to be at least 120mm, I think, to have room to work) you need to connect it to the camera's 57mm threaded receptacle inside the focusing helicoid. You'll also need a 57mm to your-size-Copal step-down ring. That's how you'll mount your lens to the tubes. So I used a 165mm lens and it worked well. Make sure, also, to line your tubes with black felt to prevent hot spots on the images. This is really important. I hope that answers everything.
David Hancock again huge thanks for hour thoughtful reply. I hope I got it right and the idea should be a 57mm adaptor going 1mm into the focus mount. The other side of the adaptor should match lens native mount or the interchange adaptor that connect the lens and the base adaptor on focus mount. If this is the case I should decide what 3rd party lens I am going use then source the related adaptors.
Pick one up with the 75mm f/2.8 and go to town. If you test it in person at a good camera shop, they should be able to confirm if the mirror is still properly aligned with the camera. A weakness of these cameras is that the mirror was backed with foam and over time that fails and that failed foam is enough to throw off focus between the film and focusing screen. If you see it in person and they don't know, you can put frosted scotch tape over the film back opening to the shutter (with the shutter open and the film caddy removed) to test focus. Just check something close and finite, like the edge of a shelf or a pencil tip) and see that it's properly focused on the film plane and focus screen. If not, you'll need to be versed enough in basic camera maintenance to replace the mirror foam with something like masking tape (what I used) to achieve proper alignment. It's actually simple -- four screws to remove and some foam to clean out with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. Then reverse. It's a WAY different experience than DSLRs. The focusing screen will seem really dark at first. Swinging in the opposite horizontal direction will take getting used to. It's also super rewarding and these are a ton of fun to use.
I'm a fan of the Nikkor 50mm 2.8. I've only used a couple wide lenses on this system but of the ones that are regularly available the reviews indicate the Nikkor is the best.
@@DavidHancock FedEx just dropped it off.... there is dust... but not in the lens.. maybe the glass in the prism needs to be replaced... also the frame lines aren’t level in the screen.... hhmmmm?
I’m a Hasselblad photographer and aficionado, to the point where I literally have family blood from Gothenburg. But I still enjoy seeing good info on a system like this, which to me was always like a “poor man’s Hasselblad”. One could put together a nice Bronica system for maybe 50-60 percent less than a comparable Hasselblad. The original Nikkor lenses from the beginning of Bronica are supposed to be amazing.
The older Nikkor lenses are mixed. Some are great and some are okay; more were very good to great than were not. The best case for these is the Nikkor 75mm f/2.8 lenses, which came in four iterations over the time Nikon made them. The original -P is a bit of an under performer. The -P.C. and the other -P.C. (I forget the difference between them, maybe coatings), are both good. The -H.C. is reportedly amazing but command prices that make them generally unattainable for most people. The Nikkor -Q 25CM f/4 is a relatively poor performer and has serious focus shift when stopped down, so focusing is a nightmare. Combined with the coma that lens exhibits, the looks it yields are an acquired taste. The Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 is a good lens stopped down, and I haven't yet been able to compare it to the 55mm f/4 Zeiss Flektogon to know how it performs in comparison to that lens. If the Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 weere my only wide lens for Bronica, I'd be happy. It's a good lens.
@@DavidHancock sorry, but you talk about the Nikkor Q 25cm f.4 for Nikon F? So how can I use a F lens with Bronica S2? Perhaps I didn't understand very well. Tks for all three video.
@@alfredozappetelli1473 You're welcome. The Nikkors aren't F mount. Nikon made the original lens lineup for Bronica, both with the small and large bayonets. The two Nikkor large bayonets lenses I use, the 25CM f/4 and 18CM f/2.5, use the large Bronica bayonet. There were also Komura lenses that use it and others.
I got my S2a in 2001 as a birthday present (I used Hasselblad 500cm in my pro days) anyway I was asked by a friend who was writing a book about his life and he wanted me to take the photo for the book cover.
I had this Bronica that I hadn't tested yet and just had to rely on faith.
We did the photo shoot, and I ran 5 rolls of fuji astia 100 through it. All of the images were spot on save the bracketing half stop ether side, every shot was tack sharp wide open.
I was using the lens that came with it, a zenzanon 100mm f2.4
Everyone in church were totally shocked at the results from this ancient film camera, not to say the art director who was going to scan them.
Not only was the image selected used for the book cover but also promotional posters.
As a side note, the images shouldn't have been in focus because I didn't know about the possible focusing issues that were reported when the cameras were first sold. The foam used by bronica was organic, and after the cameras sat in the shop for a while, the focusing screen would drop as the foam decomposed.
Nice! Yeah, Bronica lenses were always great. Even the couple of bad ones still perform relatively well and can be found performing exceptionally in some settings. The 100mm is a particular standout, too. Actually, I have a video this week that's going to review the Zenzanon MC 80mm f/2.4 (Thursday I think) and then there are two more Bronica lens reviews scheduled for December. I have yet to meet a lens for this camera that disappoints me (though the Komura 100mm f/2.8 is the weakest one that I won, it's still good.)
These have been three of the most helpful and informative videos I have ever seen on TH-cam. Absolutely brilliant. Not a wasted word, no silly background music or special effects, just pure information well shot and superbly delivered. Thank you so much David.
Thank you, Don!
My favorite of this series. Lens information is fascinating, and available nowhere else that I've seen. Well done! Andy
Thank you!
Who is the one person who had to give this a thumbs down??? The man has put a lot of effort into this video!!!!!
😀 Thank you! I tend to think that the thumbs downs on my videos come from people who were looking for a different level or detail or who expect camera reviews and manuals to be Wikipedia article readings.
@@DavidHancock Great content. I really appreciate it. I have a S2A that has been sitting in a box for many years. Knowing how way leads on to way I'm glad that I have a chance to give it another go. Going to get it out and take some pictures. Hope it has held up over the years. Thanks again.
A month ago, or something like that, I got interested in film photography again. Found my old negatives and a simple scanner. I also started to look at information on medium format cameras. A favorite was the Rolleiflex. Then the Yashica Mat and the Mamiya C330. Figured I just could never afford a Hasselblad system. Then I saw the Mamiya RB system and liked it a lot. Until I saw your video on the Bronica S2A and now... It's my fave :-) Not all too big and not too complex. Still has a lot of possibilities.
It's an awesome system. I decided to keep this over my RB67.
Thanks for all your videos on the S2A, I just finished them all and have one on it's way from Japan now, It'll be my first foray into Medium Format and you've made me very excited about my choice!
Fantastic! And good choice. These are really user-friendly.
Same here. This is and the other ode to the S2a video sold me on the Bronica S2a!
I've been interested in photography technique for 40 years or more and still learned a lot, interesting stuff in this video. How diverse and varied this Bronica system really is! I don't know if I'm now running to a store (looking desperately on ebay) to buy the Bronica S2a to use all my large format lenses that are now just in a drawer, but now I know that it is actually possible with the right accessories... thanks!
Thank you!
Great miniseries! Let these play in the background as I messed with my brand new S2A. The specifically helpful part was in ep2 where you quickly took the WLF off. The manual said to 'press up' which I couldn't figure out. Mine came with the three regular lenses and the Bronica bellows but I'd be really interested in getting some of those tele options you showed here!
Thank you! I do not have a Bronica bellows to demonstrate with, unfortuantely.
Great review however if anyone is considering purchasing one, make sure you actually are buying an S2A. In general, the S2 has small metal "wings" on the strap lugs, the S2A does not. Japanese dealers seem to sell these all the time and mis-identify. I suspect some know better but can get more cash for an S2A so they play dumb and say "late model S2/S2A" in their listings. The S2A is a different, improved design. Another way to identify if you are buying one: Serial numbers over 150000 on the body are S2A's, lower numbers are not as well as the angle of the bevel on the advance lever. There are some great videos on TH-cam that explain the differences. Worth watching before you buy.
Thank you. There were some S2A bodies with the wing-type strap lugs and different-than-Internet-truth SNs. Given that this camera has the S2A gearing inside of it, which I know because I took parts of it apart to repair it, I'm going to stick with this one being an S2A. But you are correct that many auction listings provide incorrect info and that most S2A bodies have the much better strap lug design.
@@DavidHancock That is good to know (about the lugs). It would be great to see what the difference is in the gearing. Wonder if anyone did a video about this? Beautiful camera and thanks for all the great videos!
Excellent. Thanks.
Thank you!
Hi David great video's. I found one of these cameras at an estate sale yesterday. The gentleman was a wedding photographer. My question is my body serial numer is CB 97116 S2A. Would this be a factory upgrade to make a non S2A into an S2A? Any answers would help. Thanks scott. PS most beautiful camera ive ever owned.
Nice find! I honestly am not sure. It's been so long since I made this video, I don't recall. I agree, though, that this is the best-looking camera. I still use mine often and love it.
thank you David for the beautiful video. Questio about flash: wich time of shutter speed is sincronized with a electronic flash in position X? Thank you
Thank you! For X, that's the X shutter speed and slower. Anything faster and the entire frame is not exposed by the flash because one of the shutter curtains will cover part of the frame.
I was wondering... Van you do micro-adjustements to the lensmount or helicoid? Mine cannot focus on infinity...
Have a 75mm Nikon 2.8 and a komura 150 3.5...
Is the issue in the lens or in the focusing screen alignment? So, is that something you see on the focusing screen or is that manifesting on the film?
Hello David, your videos are fantastic and easy to follow along with. Question: is there a way to calculate the angle of view for the adapted large format lens? ie. you are using a 105mm - does that act like a 47mm (0.45 conversion) or am I way off?
thanks!
Thank you! So a lens of a given FL well have the same angle of view hard on the camera format. So let's say that you had a 200mm Bronica lens and a 200mm 4x5 lens. They would project the same image into the film plane.
Thanks so much for these videos! Do you know specifically what brand of tubes you bought that have the 57mm threads for mounting the leaf shutter? I bought a set with the interchangeable mounts, but the threads are just a bit too wide, more like 58mm maybe
Thank you and I think these are the exact ones that I bought: www.ebay.com/itm/Macro-Extension-Tube-Ring-for-Pentax-PK-K-Mount-Kx-Km-k7-5-K200D-K100D-K20D-K10D/251208577537?hash=item3a7d32b201:g:SagAAMXQWlFRtyMQ&frcectupt=true
Hey David, firstly awesome triology of videos, very helpful and very informative. I was wondering what your opinion is on getting the Bronica as a backup to a Hasselblad. Apart from the shutter difference I am liking the fact the shutter speed goes up to 1000th. Would like you professional opinion on my reasoning. Many Thanks
Thank you! Were it me, I would try to stick with a backup that uses the same lens system if you're planning to shoot them on the same day. That cuts down on what you have to carry. Now, if you wanted to use the Hassy for professional or high-end work and have the Bronica to experiment with or shoot for other types of work, then it makes a bit more sense. But even I've stopped carrying overlapping cameras of different systems on shoots because the added weight is hard to manage. (The exception, of course, is video and still where my video cameras have to be a different system.)
Thanks for the 3 videos David. Especially this last one! I have just bought a Kodak Aero Ektar 178mm f 2.5 lens, do you think it is possible to connect it to my Bronica S2a?
Thank you and in theory yes. I don't know the exact focal length on the 178 from the rear element to the film plane, but if it's longer than this camera's mirror-to-film distance AND if the rear of the lens will fit into the S2A's throat, it should be. Focusing will be a significant issue. If you adapt a standard focusing helicoid and obtain infinity focus with it, you're likely not to get focus much closer than 20 feet (guess) with the standard helicoid's throw. For comparison, the Nikkor 18cm f/2.5 has a LOT of focus throw in the helicoid and still only gets to around 7 feet, and it's a comparable-spec lens to the 178.
SK Grimes MIGHT have an answer. They know LF gear well but are not Bronica experts (that said, they did fix my 18cm lens, but at that time did not have an S-mount Bronica in house for testing.) I'd still shoot them a message and see if they think it's doable.
If the rear of the 178mm is narrow enough an M65 helicoid might be a suitable start for an adapter.
@@DavidHancock Thanks a lot David, I will inform you about the results :)
Thank you for these very informative videos i'm really considering buying one for my first foray into medium format
Thank you!
Great video, It explains a lot. Happens that I’ve a similar model, serial number starts with CB. I was wondering if I need to put some film in order to test the speeds. Does the camara works without film? Ot is it just a problem that I have?
Thanks so much for the videos.
Thank you! The camera will work mechanically without film but will not record an image. You can point the camera with no film back and no lens at a lamp and run through the shutter speeds to get an idea of their timing. You won't get exact reads, but as long as they seem twice as fast or twice as slow, they're probably fine. These cameras have held up well.
@@DavidHancock thanks so much. I finally did it in a weird way, charging the shutter without the filmback. This morning I set an Ilford Delta 100 asa, let’s see how it goes, in Cuba the light is really hard, so I’ve chosen 100 asa. Is gonna be my first medium format roll, I only know 35mm.
Thanks again for the videos, it helped me a lot.
Thanks again. A huge amount of fantastic information.
Thank you!
Hey David, I have the nikkor-q 105 lens. Is it supposed to stay closed after releasing the shutter? Or should it open back up after the shutter is released?
Oh boy, I think so because that's how you would use bulb mode with leaf shutter flash sync, but mine doesn't work as a leaf shutter lens so I had to disable the leaf shutter anyway.
So I’m having a hard time trying to decide between an S2a and an RB67. I know each have shoot different frame sizes. I want something that’s mechanical, have film backs and be portable. I’ve been getting asked by some family and friends to do various photo shoots so I’m wondering if a 6x6 would limit me
Well, I'll be selling my RB67 when I finish taking photos with it and keeping my S2A if that helps any. The only reason for that for me is that I have 6X7 covered with Pentax and the RB67 is very heavy on long hikes. The Bronica is, too, but less so. In many important ways the RB67 is a superior camera -- newer and with optically better lenses. Also the motorized film back on the RB67 is a great addition to a kit.
I just picked up a set of Bronica extension tubes for my S2a. I’m confused by the extension tube chart in the official Bronica instructions. It notes a magnification rate and exposure multiple rate for each Bronica lens and various combinations of the extension tubes. I’m assuming the “exposure multiple rate” relates to the increase in exposure required to compensate for the tubes. For example, using all the tubes, CA+CB+CC+CD on the 75mm lens has an exposure multiple rate of 4.3 and the magnification rate is 1.08. I don’t think this means I need to add 4.3 stops based on what I’ve been reading on line because the articles indicate more like two stops. I’ve read various explanations on line but they indicate the “exposure multiple rate” is not the actual number of stops but it’s a ratio. Can you shed any light on the information provided by Bronica?
So with macro work you need to account for the rule of inverse squares. If your exposure multiplier is 4.3 then you need to multiply by 4.3, and that's pre-reciprocity failure. For instance, if you have a one-second exposure then you need to count up 4.3 stops -- 2 -> 4 -> 8 -> 16 -> 18 (roughly for 4.3 stops) seconds for a 4.3 multiplier. Then cross-reference that time with your film's reciprocity failure chary. The magnification rate of 1.08 is equivalent to 1:1.08, meaning 8% larger than true-to-life. Macro work with tubes and bellows drastically increases exposure times.
@@DavidHancock Thank you David for such a concise and easy to understand explanation. I really appreciate your response.
David thanks for this 3 part series, it was a great help to me as I'm looking to get this camera. I recently found one for sale (private sale) with 2 120 film backs, one is a 6×4.5 also 3 nikkor lenses the 50mm f3.5, 75mm f2.8 and 135mm f3.5. Both waste level and prism view finders and last of all the pistol type hand grip. It's been for sale for a number of weeks possible even a couple of months and he has dropped the price from £600 or $790 to £500 or $660. Assuming it's in working order is this a good price or do you think there's a bit of room for movement or should get it quick. Going by prices on Ebay I think its quite good but what do you think, he's selling the kit to help fund a large format camera.
That's an okay deal. The film backs are great. The viewfinders are great. The 75mm is good if it's the right version. The 50mm flares like crazy because of the 82mm front element. The 135 has a middling reputation but I've never tried it to speak first-hand.
On the 75mm, of it's the HC, jump on that deal as that's apparently an amazing lens. If it's the P.C. it's a good lens. I forget the designation of the earliest version, maybe just P, and that lens is only okay. I'm lukewarm on the Nikkor 75mm P.C. I had, however.
Were it me, I'd try and negotiate down. If you're up on things that can degrade camera value, that will help. When you inspect it, field strip it. Check that the focus is smooth, that the lens mount feels secure, and that the apertures are clean and work well. Check for fungus in the lenses. Check that the foam around the focus screen is good (it will need to be replaced unless the camera was serviced in the last 20 years.)
Lastly, here's your secret weapon, bring a piece of clear acrylic, like 1.5mm thick, no more than 2mm. If you don't have one handy, as most people don't, it's worth the few bucks to order one online. Order it or cut it to 6x6 cm. Sand it with 400 grit to make it frosted. Focus the lens on something close (having a tripod helps), open up the shutter in bulb and lock the shutter open. Bring a cable release if needed. Pop open the film back and remove the caddy. Place the ground plastic, ground side facing the lens, where the caddy had been. Check that focus matches. If not, which is likely, then you'll need to replace the foam under the mirror. That will be a good negotiating point and should let the seller know you know what you're buying and that the price you're offering is the one you will go with.
Go in with a max price in mind and be willing to walk if he won't meet it. I've never walked away from a camera purchase and regretted it.
@@DavidHancock that's great when going into a deal get the poker face on and at least look as if I know what I'm talking about lol thanks for the advice. G
I have a Bronica S2A and just got a nikkor 105 leaf shutter lens. While trying to figure out how to use this, as I can't find much on the internet. It seems to me that as long as the shutter on the camera is set longer than the shutter on the lens, the lens shutter will be the correct exposure. Am I on the right track?
You are on the right track. I think that the leaf shutter works best with a very long exposure time, like bulb, but my leaf shutter mechanism is not properly functional so I modified mine to just work like a normal lens. Try different settings without film in the camera and with the film back off look through the camera. if you take a photo can can see an exposure from the leaf shutter through the focal plane curtain,you're probably doing it correctly. Then give it a go with an inexpensive roll of black and white film and keep track of your leaf shutter and focal plane shutter settings for each exposure.
Just bought a late model S2 for next to nothing with a 75mm lens (99038 serial number for the body).
What strap do you find works best with the butterfly lugs?
Nice! You would need an adapter to connect a strap. They came with the cameras but many have been lost. I don't use a strap with mine because the strap connectors can scratch the finish.
@@DavidHancock ahh gotcha. I saw some photos of straps with adapter looking things on them while doing my research. I probably will end up with a custom one that won't constantly brush against it. I like having such a heavy camera on a strap even when it'll spend most of its time on a tripod.
Now there's been some controversy behind whether mine is an S2 or S2A. It has the same film advance knob as your S2A, but no S2A and the end of the serial number. I came across an older forum where someone stated that the cameras made for and sold in Japan did not have the early S2As identified with an S2A after the serial number. I don't know how true this actually is but the person I bought it from stated it was all original and that no parts had ever been fully replaced (like the crank knob) and that it's just been maintained with some foam replacements and dust cleanings. I feel like I have an S2 but the knob from everything I've been told is a tell tale sign of an S2A. What other ways do you have "visually" to confirm this?
And lastly, your 3 part series gave me the confidence and excitement to go out and actually buy one. I come back to this series every noe and again as it's amazing content and I always feel like I take something more away from it each time. Thank you so much for your treasure trove of information!
Great stuff! It’s useful for the EC & EC-TL as well. Would have loved to see something on using the f/3.5 105mm leaf shutter lens.
Thank you! If my 105mm LS worked properly, I would have. The leaf mechanism does not sync correctly so I just use it like a 105mm.
Just picked up an S2A. Thank you for these videos. They have been super helpful. One question: Does the Nikkor 200mm F4 require a different bayonet than the nikkor 75mm F2.8?
Thank you and it might. I forget if that lens specifically does. There are the large and small bayonets , and the lenses that mount on the large typically have a ring that they attach to and that ring mounts onto the camera.
The Nikkor 4/200 has the standard bayonet, as the 75mm has.
I didn't know that the Bronica own brand lenses were made by Topcon (and I didn't know this) I would like to think they would have been made by Topcon because as you said in your last video the 100mm f2.4 Zezanon is a truly spectacular lens, mine was tack sharp!
I love the 2.4. It's an amazing lens. I know that Nikkor made many, and also Komura as a third-party maker. I forget if Topcon, Yamassaki, or another firm made the Bronica-branded lenses.
Thank you for the videos. I have one question. can I use the S2 lens in the S2A body? Thanks
Thank you and yes you can. They have the same lens mount.
@@DavidHancock thank you very much.
Hi David, love your sharing about using this system to adapt large format lens, can you share a closer look and brand of your 34mm to 57mm ring ? Thanks.
I just checked eBay and didn't see them listed thought now. The pieces I ordered were 57mm to copal step rings. Some dude in Russia was making them.
I see they are available from RAF cameras (Belarus) but will ship to North America - the adapters are around $25 and it lists which shutter it is for. Cheers!
hi David! The early S2 film back works on the S2A?
I believe that one of mine is an S2 back and that it works on my S2A.
Hello, I have a Zenza bronica S, can I use the s2-s2a lenses?
IIRC, the S has a fixed focusing helioid, correct? If yes, then the lenses that need to go into the S2A's large bayonet mount, like the Nikkor 105mm f/3.5 leaf shutter, will not work. However, the lenses that fit in the S2A's removable helicoid, like the 80mm f/2.4, 75mm f/2.8, and Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 and f/3.5, and many others, will work.
Hi David, a new S2A user here thanks for this series which is a great starting point for me. I would like to know the details around 1 min where u put in a leaf shutter lens. What is the model of that lens and how to judge if a lens can be used the same way perfectly by S2A/S2? According to the manual, “Lens mount - Bayonet type (Bronica mount), also equipped with screw mount (57mm x 1 mm pitch). Large bayonet mount for long telephoto lenses” I believe the leaf shutter lens you inserted is an example of the 57mm x 1mm pitch one but I have no idea what exactly that means...
Hey, Joseph,
So a 1mm thread pitch is standard in cameras and basically it means that the threads in the screw move laterally along the mount 1mm every full rotation of the thing being screwed in. So your first step would be to get some of the no-name macro rings with a 57mm thread (typically Alpha and EOS but generic and with swappable mounts) and use those as your lens tube. Whatever lens you mount (it will need to be at least 120mm, I think, to have room to work) you need to connect it to the camera's 57mm threaded receptacle inside the focusing helicoid. You'll also need a 57mm to your-size-Copal step-down ring. That's how you'll mount your lens to the tubes. So I used a 165mm lens and it worked well. Make sure, also, to line your tubes with black felt to prevent hot spots on the images. This is really important.
I hope that answers everything.
David Hancock again huge thanks for hour thoughtful reply. I hope I got it right and the idea should be a 57mm adaptor going 1mm into the focus mount. The other side of the adaptor should match lens native mount or the interchange adaptor that connect the lens and the base adaptor on focus mount. If this is the case I should decide what 3rd party lens I am going use then source the related adaptors.
Thanks for this set of videos, Ive just switched from Kiev 88 to Bronica S2A. If by any chance you could make video about bellows?
Thank you! If I get my hands on a bellows, I certainly will.
i am researching this brand to test medium format, i primarily shoot dslr..... any recommendations?
Pick one up with the 75mm f/2.8 and go to town. If you test it in person at a good camera shop, they should be able to confirm if the mirror is still properly aligned with the camera. A weakness of these cameras is that the mirror was backed with foam and over time that fails and that failed foam is enough to throw off focus between the film and focusing screen. If you see it in person and they don't know, you can put frosted scotch tape over the film back opening to the shutter (with the shutter open and the film caddy removed) to test focus. Just check something close and finite, like the edge of a shelf or a pencil tip) and see that it's properly focused on the film plane and focus screen. If not, you'll need to be versed enough in basic camera maintenance to replace the mirror foam with something like masking tape (what I used) to achieve proper alignment. It's actually simple -- four screws to remove and some foam to clean out with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. Then reverse.
It's a WAY different experience than DSLRs. The focusing screen will seem really dark at first. Swinging in the opposite horizontal direction will take getting used to. It's also super rewarding and these are a ton of fun to use.
can you recommend me a good wide angle lens?
I'm a fan of the Nikkor 50mm 2.8. I've only used a couple wide lenses on this system but of the ones that are regularly available the reviews indicate the Nikkor is the best.
Well David.... Z-Bron owes you a sales royalty... The Black version is on its way... Clearly they take better photos than the silver....
😀 That's why all the pros use the black cameras and the silver ones are for amateurs.
@@DavidHancock FedEx just dropped it off.... there is dust... but not in the lens.. maybe the glass in the prism needs to be replaced... also the frame lines aren’t level in the screen.... hhmmmm?
I’m a Hasselblad photographer and aficionado, to the point where I literally have family blood from Gothenburg. But I still enjoy seeing good info on a system like this, which to me was always like a “poor man’s Hasselblad”. One could put together a nice Bronica system for maybe 50-60 percent less than a comparable Hasselblad. The original Nikkor lenses from the beginning of Bronica are supposed to be amazing.
The older Nikkor lenses are mixed. Some are great and some are okay; more were very good to great than were not. The best case for these is the Nikkor 75mm f/2.8 lenses, which came in four iterations over the time Nikon made them. The original -P is a bit of an under performer. The -P.C. and the other -P.C. (I forget the difference between them, maybe coatings), are both good. The -H.C. is reportedly amazing but command prices that make them generally unattainable for most people.
The Nikkor -Q 25CM f/4 is a relatively poor performer and has serious focus shift when stopped down, so focusing is a nightmare. Combined with the coma that lens exhibits, the looks it yields are an acquired taste.
The Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 is a good lens stopped down, and I haven't yet been able to compare it to the 55mm f/4 Zeiss Flektogon to know how it performs in comparison to that lens. If the Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 weere my only wide lens for Bronica, I'd be happy. It's a good lens.
David Hancock Zeiss glass definitely has spoiled me.
@@DavidHancock sorry, but you talk about the Nikkor Q 25cm f.4 for Nikon F? So how can I use a F lens with Bronica S2? Perhaps I didn't understand very well. Tks for all three video.
@@alfredozappetelli1473 You're welcome. The Nikkors aren't F mount. Nikon made the original lens lineup for Bronica, both with the small and large bayonets. The two Nikkor large bayonets lenses I use, the 25CM f/4 and 18CM f/2.5, use the large Bronica bayonet. There were also Komura lenses that use it and others.
@@DavidHancock Tks a lot, I supposed, anyway I found a S2 at very good price, so I'm thinking to try a 6x6 format. Your video has been very precious.