I have this same thought every now and then. Especially now that Dave did a new $50 oscilloscope video. Even though the video still holds up, I really want to see a 4K retake with new tips.
@@Bluelagoonstudios My high school electronics teacher was in the last year before retirement and he was very proud of his book on how to run a TV repair business. What's really funny is that this was right about the time when TV repair started to become pointless. As a high school kid I never bought his book of course but years later I decided to look it up and found a copy on Amazon for like $5 so I bought it. He actually did a good job for the time but it's laughable today. Times change and so do labs.
@@dougcox835 I mean… the story is cool and I see where you're coming, but what has really changed in the last decade that would render the basics in this video to be obsolete? As I said, I'd be down for a retake with some updated tips and 4K60 nonsense, but it's still solid as is. It's not like it's forty years old and has Dave telling us to get a logic probe until we can afford or access an oscilloscope. Some things that have changed are prices, specifically mentioned models and the availability of some kits. It's still a good video and following it will still get you started with a useful lab. A new video would really just bring us new tips, things Dave may have missed, references to newer models of equipment, etc. Otherwise, I really don't know if there will be a drastic difference between this and a newer video. Especially not anything that you can't find out with a few minutes of follow up research. 🤔 I don't think a new video is necessary, but damn would it be appreciated and cool.
@@jamesdriscoll9405 do you do something when you burn yourself? Years have thought me not to bother with that and keep working, as there's not much to do when you burn with the iron.
"Without something specific, you'll have real difficulty just doodling around." It's a bit of a catch-22. Without test equipment it is not easy to imagine projects. I have and still am realizing things I can do with a DSO that were simply not possible with even a very good analog oscilloscope. Just in the past few days I have started experimenting with glitch detection using the "mask" function of a Keysight oscilloscope. It can run for hours and then freeze on a glitch. Save to USB storage or whatever. I could not think of a need for a 4 channel scope so I bought a 2 channel scope. Well, now I have a need, so I bought a 4 channel scope. But it needs to be a good one and Keysight is the successor to Hewlett-Packard, from back when it was an engineering tool provider, and it just feels right. Do I need two scopes? Well, now I realize that each can have a different ground reference; so two scopes each using 2 channels is still better than 1 scope using all four IF you need a different ground reference on the channels.
This is for me the best electronics teacher and engineer. If I had found a person like you when I started in electronics, I would have never abandoned the job. I was an expert with repairing radios, but retired when I saw the SMD devices. If I would have seen you in those days I would have continued. It is a real pleasure when you repair an electronics device. It cannot be described in words here.
I was designing circuits and laying out boards when surface mount technology first came out. I found it easy to get used to and pretty cool. For prototyping we got one of those stupid fancy rework station things but the truth is I could do better changing out components, even QFPs, with simply a soldering iron and solder wick. People would not believe me until I showed them then they were like 🤯 boca abierta.
I could sum it up in a single word: "FUN!" Dave makes electronics fun! No matter why you need the info, business or pleasure, he teaches it the way it should be taught! Many people get into fields they love, but end up getting burnt out because it doesn't stay fun, rather it transforms into something they need to get paid to do! I know this as it happened to me too, but I was on the computer-side for over two decades. I retired as an accountant!
I already own an electronic lab, I was just looking for upgrades, and this video was insightful. I have a desoldering gun, very usefull to recycle components from pcb and save money on buying electronic parts. when I started this hobby, my first purchase for my electronic lab was a power supply, over the years I kept upgrading my electronic lab, and now I have semi professional lab. I didn't buy everything at once, and I don't think everyone should buy everything at once, start small and then expand your lab as you learn and experiment with electronic components. electronics is a hobby to relieve stress, and everyone should get involved, this is a motivational videos for people who don't know what they are missing. thanks for sharing.
You covered a lot of gear in a short time. I'd suggest, with a bit of US humor, you're excellent overview of lab gear is missing two pieces of kit. The terrific fundamental lab you described is missing a coffee maker and a proper beer fridge.
Oh PLEASE! In the UK and Oz a PROPER beer fridge is called a pub and if he's any sense he'll have found a house or workshop within metres of one - fridges frequently run out but pubs rarely do! LOL :)
The *bare minimum* equipment I found: - a good, temperature-controlled soldering iron. - a multimeter (2 are better, but you can start with one). - an adjustable power supply You can start with that and buy equipment *as you need it*! Once you start working on a project, you'll find out what you need in your lab. Just add some *margin*: if you have a simple project that requires a 20MHz oscilloscope, but you think you'll get more serious about electronics later, get a 50MHz or a 100MHz scope, so you don't have to constantly upgrade. Of course, a 1GHz scope would be overkill. The price goes up *exponentially* with bandwidth! If you have a friend or two who are also into electronics and none of you will do electronics full time, you all can chip in and buy a better oscilloscope, better multimeters etc. together and time share them. Do you do SMD? Then, you'll need at least 2 pairs of good quality tweezers and a hot air rework station. I also got a small electric cooking plate (around $30), so I don't have to use the stove for reflow soldering. A good magnifying lamp and magnifying goggles are essential. Do you do digital circuits only? A 0-15V 3A power bench supply should do it. Are you building a robot with high-power motors? You'll probably need a 50V / 10A or 20A power supply (look at the datasheets for the maximum voltage rating of the motor driver ICs and the motors !). If you have the money, a good thermal camera will greatly speed up debugging of any circuit and it will make great thermal design possible.
@Travis Ireland hi Travis I've just started same time as we went in to lock down I've would recommend a variable power supply I use i mine all the time ,plus I bought a second hand one off FB a farnell linea £20 and he gave a fluke bench multimeter ,I've just ordered a oscilloscope don't know how to use one but I'll learn ,enjoy m8
I must have watched this back in 2012. I think I can attribute my success in school, and as an Engineering Technologist and Telecommunications Technician to this video. This video, and Dave's channel, must be the biggest reason I was so interested in electronics, and so capable at learning this stuff easily over my peers.
You forgot to mention the various cad softwares and cnc router, metal lathe, 3d printer; a backup 4000w generator for those stormy days, molding material, metal liquifying machine. and the mini fridge full of refreshements/snacks, piss station/gourde and the "do not disturb" and "No I'm not building a spaceship" sign for hanging outside the door. At least that's how far Ive gotten.
+George Tsiros I really don't think he needs to build one... I have a funny feeling they come built in: e{a}/t=hv But you better check real quick and that's super easy to do if you go by the book and use the specs. 1: Turn on a light.... 2: Make sure the photon's clock is not moving for accuracy.... 3: Check your speed. In my book anything over a few hundred thousand miles an hour and it's working. I'm not sure why everyone else is in such a hurry and some people have to get so darn technical and worry about a few Nano seconds gained here and there. I mean it's not like we actually know where we are going anyway so I'd like to know why it matters so much....
+George Tsiros It was a joke George... maybe I should lay off the mourning cup of coffee;-) But it is based on proven facts with some logic thrown in. From the photon's frame of reference it's not moving as its clock speed shows. It's the Observer that's moving looking at its own clock move as it moves past the photon's location in spacetime. It's an interesting paradox involving deep concepts of symmetry because the Observer's eyes and senses held in place by the strong force is looking at light being generated by the weak force that powers the Sun... meaning the Observer is looking at a speed of light clock generate the light it sees which should stop the Observer's clock too. The paradox is resolved by adding one of two things where only one choice is correct: 1: A loose cable (As CERN said when the issue came up in 2011: (v-c)/c=2.48e-5 sec gained in 453.6 miles) 2: The asymmetry of the weak force which adds 3.6 seconds a year to the speed of light giving us the intermediary state needed separating the positron (anti-electron) from its electron (neutrino space) and the time needed to move in under the effect of constant time dilation. (As SLAC and others proved by showing SLAC's E158 ratio matched CERN's data creating an asymmetry in time SLAC confirmed in 2012 by using their old BaBar experiment data and "looking at it differently".) The equation e{a}/t=hv (where E=hv to keep it simple) shows the fine structure constant ratio is being maintained by the asymmetry of the weak force and ratio of time dilation in effect. It shows the asymmetry of the weak force {a} is acting like a scales fulcrum keeping E a constant using time dilation as the length of time/space increases. A video of the process would prove a picture is worth a thousand words as it's not as difficult to understand seeing it as it is to explain. We have entered a new era of physics without missing dark matter and energy but as usual it takes awhile for people to believe it before trying to understand it. Cool thing is it only takes basic 6th grade level math to see for yourself as that's all that was needed to reduce SLAC's E158 ratio down to 453.6 miles and the hard part connecting space to time (literally) is already done and posted online. Take care...
When you really think about it, it isn't that expensive at all. Most people spend at least as much on computers and musical instruments when they can get by on a lot less. If you're serious about electronics, all this stuff is worth getting, and ensuring that you'll have a good time. Great video, Dave!
its "how long is a piece of string" with electronics lab equipment. e,g multimeter $5- $5000, oscilloscope $20-infinity, power, supplies/function generators same story. The fact they can make these things so cheap amazes me as much as how god damn expensive it can all get
Im an electronics engineer that really only have worked with software for the last 20 years. About 6 months ago i wanted to start with hardware again. What do I need ? Well i could go and search my memory 20 years back - or...look at this video.... I took the last choice.And went out and bought: Rigol DS1052E Oscilloscope, Antex 660A Soldering station, Basetech BT-305 Lab powersupply (0-30V/0-3A), UniTrend UT109 Multimeter, A lot of hand tools, a hole bunch of cheap components from China (all kinds of resistors, capacitors, Arduino PCBs, LCD Displays, etc.)...maybe i went a little overboard....still missing a Stereo Microscope for SMD work, ESD protection equipment (argh....), function generator (im about to build one :P ) ...but i certainly got a lot of inspiration from this video...Thx.
Best wishes! The first Scope I bought cost me a thousand pounds (a hameg 20MHz DSO) but last twenty years... Over that time I was lucky to score a better one for free and still pass my hameg onto a new electronics hobbyist... I now tend to buy a decent tool once a month, spending as much as I can on quality, so it will last.
I took a high reliability soldering course in the RCAF and we were told to use 63/37 solder as it has no plastic state. It helps prevent cold solder joints because it goes from liquid to solid immediately. With other solders, if there is any movement or vibration during it’s plastic state the joint will probably end up as a cold solder joint.
My parents got me a Hakko FX-888D probably 8 years ago when I was 19, I still use it to this day and the only thing I had to change was the tip. It is a fantastic soldering station with phenomenal build quality and a lot of adaptability with the iron tips. Definitely a must have for any electronics lab, even for a hobbyist it makes a world of difference in your soldering.
I just recently picked up a 35Mhz Philips dual trace CRT scope on eBay for $27.00 USD + $20.00 shipping. It was originally made in ~ 1976/1978 thereabouts and the A channel knob is a bit wonky, needs a good shot of Deoxit all round and the detents are none too tight anymore (have to thump a knob or two to set it right) but otherwise it works fine. Great little learner scope and fantastic value for money.
+EEVblog I subscribed after seeing this vid , i just want to tell you that this and your soldering tutorial helped me a LOT , and i want to thank you for that , i watched most of your videos especially teardowns and mailbag :) . oh and as you said on the end :))) everyone starts with a crap multimiter and a pair of wire cutters :))) well that's how i started :) i made my own PSU from an old 450W PC PSU and i maked it variable 0-12V and its very good and stable :) my multimeter is just crap , the resistance function doesn't work and my probes are in heaven now :))) i melted it a bit while measuring around 15A current from that PSU to a battery :)) i just wanted to see how much it will take , but after i got a new multimiter i will keep the old one as a memory :) it helped me a lot :) i still search for an oscilloscope but are waaay to expensive , even second hand :( i'll find one cheaper i hope :) Thank You +EEVblog for doing these videos , it helps a lot many people . here , in romania most of the engineeres don't even care abount someone who wants to learn..... in the only electronic profile highschool here in my city i've seen the teachers telling students to move furniture in the practice class :( and i didnt moved there :( so you and your AWESOME vlog remains my only info source (and of course forums and the saint Google) :))
Also ham radio flea markets are a gold mine of electronics tools and components, dirt cheap usually (negotiation encouraged) but also a lot of it is in good shape, and can be tested on site
This is exactly the type of video I was looking for. Very straight forward and comprehensive. Thank you for opening your workspace to the public! It is rare to find individuals willing to share the ins and outs of their profession. This video has convinced me that I need to get to work and just do what I love full time. Again, Thanks much! ~David.
My first project for my electronics lab was the fume hood. 6 computer fans with speed control from a salvage yard, ~$1. A quad op amp and some passives to build the 25KHz fan control driver, ~$1. Hdpe sheet, hvac tape, and weather strip for pressure seals ~$2 worth actually used. 4" of scrap cat6, free. An old aquarium, free. Some scrap wood, free. a tiny 12v wall wart, free. About 4 bucks and a few hours of fiddling gets you the cure for coughing to death. Don't breath the fumes folks.
This is incredible to me. I remember watching this when it came out 7 years ago and thought that it was just so much gear to get going on. I now have about three times as much gear and everything on the list. It really is amazing how much money you can throw into this Hobby if you are sick of d****** around without the right tools. Ahaha
I never had the money to set up a lab all at once. That would have been great. But after 40 years or so it seemed like I had most of what I needed. And as I get better and better at electronics it seems I need to use the equipment less and less often. I hardly ever even need the fire extinguisher anymore. And it's been a year or more since I got shocked. I guess I've been doing too much micro-controller work. Time to get back to tubes.
I started out that way as well and then found I needed "x" for a project, then "y" for another project and over time my shop ended up looking like his lol. It's true of all trades that work can always be done with basic tools.
All I did was buy a 20$ soldering Iron with a temp probe and then built everything I needed myself from YT tutorials and easy made kits from ebay. By the time I had all my gear sorted I was ready to repair and make just about everything. Don't always choose to just buy ready made expensive things, be adventurous and make what you can by yourself. You'll learn a lot, you'll have gear tuned and tweaked to how you want it and if anything goes bad, you know how to fix it as cheap as it was to make it.
i never skipped the ads on your video.. Because this is the only way to "pay" your valuable information for free.. Thanks a lot for your great effort and your kindness to do this 🙏
Produced in 2011 and still loaded with good, essential, basic information. Excellent video. There is a newer version which is quite good too. Both videos are essential to watch for the beginner and an excellent review for the more advanced. Thanks, EEV.
Aaron Gill-Braun Maybe, I failed. But, I was trying to say "watch and learn" from the two videos and put together an electronic lab you need and can afford. Thank you for getting me thinking about the scopes which lead me to this pontification. Personally, the best scope I could afford is mandatory for me then at least one but for me a mandatory minimum of two good multimeters. Then collect everything else as you can afford until you have everything mentioned and more as time goes by. Thanks again and I hope we have helped others on their quest to learn electronics.
Instead of an expensive function generator, I use a free android app alongside a 3.5 mm to phono and some phono to BNC adaptors. It works fine for me and cost about 3 pounds total (excluding the tablet that I had anyway).
Maximum frequency: 22khz, and on my scope the sine is clean. Mind you, I am using a rather outdated 100mhz iwatsu, so some accuracy may be lost there. I don't deny that it isn't as good as a purpose built function generator, but for my purposes with my scope it does what I need.
I use to do small electronics projects as a kid and finding your TH-cam channel brought back very fond memories. I was salivating with your description of a nice electronics lab. I wish I had the time to get beck to this cool hobby. Thanks for this video!
To accumulate thousands of dollars of equipment these two things help a lot: Start making some kind of income with it first. Space out purchases (I prefer more than a year). Don't make the hobby you love just an expense, it doesn't have to be. Show people your cool projects and they will think of things you can do for income. Get used to tracking the income/expenses to help decide when it's time to upgrade something.
One hobby is putting together old computer parts and find uses like home automation. Since I gained parts and skills, people started paying me to repair their computers. They often give me old parts so I have more to play with. I refurbished a hakko FM-202 iron off ebay and invested in Autotrax PCB design so when I explore Arduino and other fun projects I can sell my own kits.
megalomania345 I started more than 8 years ago, some of these come and go. Was this around back then? If I think it's good enough, I'll recommend it to people too. Thanks
Glad you included the Fire Extinguisher. I had a work buddy that was working on high current SCRs. He would go into the lab, grab the extinguisher off of the wall, and set it beside him before turning power onto his projects. There were several times when he blew flames out the side of the SCRs. [By the way, this was by design as he was pushing the device limits. I learned a valuable lesson on how powerful electricity can be in high current applications.]
Throw out failed projects? Naaaahh! Every component I have was salvaged from something else, so if I make something and it doesn't work, I'll desolder it all back apart and reuse the components that still actually work. All I throw out are things that are actually broken/burned out, or things like transistors with the numbers all rubbed off so I have no idea what they are. Oh, and I throw out the old circuit boards that I'm done removing components from. The biggest thing you need for an electronics lab is TIME. It does no good to spend 10 or 15 minutes at a time because you can't get anything done in that amount of time. You need real hobby time to sit down and put things together, take things apart, and experiment. Also, you need reference materials of some sort, whether actual books or a computer you can use to bring up PDF files or find things online, especially when it comes to looking up data sheets.
megalomania345 Yeah, more or less. I'm a weekend tinkerer, playing around with electronics for fun with an interest to actually understand how the components work together. Every time I've fixed something it was by sheer dumb luck: fixed a burned out TV by replacing a large resistor, fixed a speaker set subwoofer by replacing one of the capacitors, fixed a Commodore 64 by desoldering the ICs with a blow torch and setting the board on fire in the process (it worked when I was done!). And every one of those times I have no idea how I figured out it was those particular components that was shot.
I highly recommend this channel. Cheap as chips. Don’t let anyone tell you different. An absolute no-brainer as well. Highly recommend. Very handy. Very important. Highly recommended.
My pet peeve: English-speaking people get Sweden and Switzerland mixed up 9 times out of 10. The cutters even say "Made in Sweden" on them, for crying out loud :) Consider this a handy cheat sheet: Sweden: blonde&blue-eyed scandinavian people, Nobel prices, Saab, AGA. Switzerland: the word "swiss", small independent country in the middle of Europe, chockolate, clocks, army knives. Victorinox, Swatch, ABB. Full disclosure: I'm neither swiss or swedish, but know my geography :P Lot's of love!
what is Finland famous for ? (apart from racing car drivers.) :) btw, when you said blonde+blue eyes scans... i instantly thought about Kimi Räikkönen - lol
shinmai in Spanish they are call Suiza and Suecia and i always have to think wich is wich or i get confused, in English i can easily distinguish them and never get them confused.
I am switching over from software to hardware and learning about power supplies is where I am really starting since they are so important. I'm glad you point out how important it is to build many of your own when you are starting out in this deal. A good place to find switches are from old ceiling and box fans. They are rated for 3 to 5 amps and many of the old ones seem to be high quality. Using those switches are good good exercise in learning about snubber circuits, RC networks, and filtering. And for that you need a scope. So it all really goes around in a big circle....
I gave up on veroboard / breadboards after uni and invested in a UV PCB exposure lamp. Best thing i ever did. No more through hole, no more veroboard, 5 minutes to produce a single side PCBs. Do everything in 1206 = Easymode + no drilling!!! Winner!
2:48 the worst I ever been shocked was right after using a tick tester. Checked inside a box working high voltage 3 phase and tester did not detect neutral ...could taste copper for about half the day....
Volt Sticks should ONLY be used for fault finding - NEVER to confirm live or dead. There are countless stories of people being shocked because the stick failed to detect the voltage (one I'm personally aware of where a apprentice was thrown out of a ceiling cavity).
In one of Dave's other videos he mentioned using chisel tips rather than conical: Changed my life. Seriously I thought it was my skills sucking and that I had learned nothing about how to solder. Started using chisel tips, Boom, Joy All Day.
Hi, EEVblog, I live in a third world country, its pretty hard to me to get things here, and the things are so expensive (3X times because the devaluated currency plus the shiping and the importation tax), can you do a video on how to set up an electronics lab on budget.
i totaly agree with you - you dont need all this stuff to get started - i learned a lot of all this stuff by my own and own about the same things like you. when i got professional about this topic i studied at school with labs filled with the stuff dave told about and its like working in heaven! you get much faster - find mistakes quicker understand things better when you have all of this tools. it helped me a lot just to fool around with this things to see what i ned and what i don't need.
There's nothing wrong with a Chinese clone soldering station. I replaced my Weller with a Chinese hakko 942 clone I found for $19. I've had it for years and used it for hours on end, it's a great station and if it breaks I'll get another.
Excellent and very informative video! I've built up many of these tools over the years. My "workshop" has decent lighting, but I've found that a good headlamp really helps me a considerable amount. The cheap-o models work, but don't last as long. For example, the Fenix headlamps cost a little more but are durable. The fact that you can adjust the brightness level makes it an invaluable tool.
Damn that is expensive. I guess I will just work from a multimeter and maybe some voltage regulators off of a SLA battery for voltage and a crap solder and that is about all I have. Well not too bad for me because I am not that into electronics yet but I really just want to get old electronics and see how they work and use them.
Skip the digital oscilloscope and just go with an analog one for now, then, if you're not doing specialized work that requires the storage capabilities of digital one. Can always buy the digital one later. You can also try going for used gear for other stuff like a soldering iron (though do buy a new tip for it if the included tip isn't in good condition).
Hello there! You can get an old analog scope for about 50 bucks and it is pretty decent! You can also get a soldering iron for about 10 bucks-just go for the transformer pistol-shaped one with a copper wire tip. I've even used it to solder SMD components-even the really tiny ones-and it's doable, even though it's not recommended due to the risk of overheating of your components. As to the multimeter-I still have my $5 one and it's okay for sorting resistors, checking for continuity (short/no short), measuring if batteries are ok and if the wire is live... And you don't often need more. Also-you can easily build a lab supply out of an old PC atx power supply-just add some dummy load (resistors, bulbs...) cut off the connectors and connect the green wire from the motherboard supply to ground. And you got yourself a switchmode 12v/5v/3.3 V high power short circuit-protected supply. You should also get some cutting pliers and a lot of wire-or else you will constantly be running out of it. But I think $50 will get you started in 10 seconds flat.
I usually don't really buy the point that an analog scope is good to start. When I first got into electronics a couple of years ago, I started with digital, not analog. An analog scope is really no good for debugging SPI signals.
Yeah, well, that depends on how you start with electronics. If you're like me, you started with MCUs and digital (I already knew programming when I started with electronics, so that part was easy for me).
"Incredibly thin solder". YES!! Thank you. A place where I used to work who manufacture pressure testing equipment / manometers would insist on me using a thicker solder which had far less flux in it, I hated the stuff. It may have been due to the ROHS regulations for lead-free solder, I can't remember. It was a while ago now - 2001. Using thinner solder gives you more control, allowing you to fine-tune the amount applied. The multicore solder in this video is exactly what I use. It has plenty of flux in it for a nice shiny and clean join, but can give off a bit of residue from the burnt flux. Clean it off after and you'll have a nice and shiny join that's not dry and grey. If you cut the multi-core solder in this video with a scalpel, you can actually see the 5 cores exactly as it shows on the label. It makes you wonder how they manage to arrange them in solder like that, being so small. :O A useless bit of info for ya....lol. Another tip for soldering is to move quickly by removing the heat / iron from the joint you are soldering immediately after the solder has flowed into the join. Keeping the iron on the joint any longer than necessary will dry it out. You can never wipe a soldering iron tip too often - keep it shiny too.
Awesome video! I'm filling up my Amazon shopping cart now! May I suggest that you update this video to include the Rigol 1054Z? I just got mine today (based on your videos David), and it is such a better deal than the dated 1052E. THANK YOU SIR!!!
Links? Google is your friend, but start with places like eBay.com (.co.uk or wherever - obvious), Banggood.com, mininthebox.com, lightinthebox.com, gearbest.com, any others you can find doing tools and electronics parts. Avoid JUST Google and Amazon when searching for a lot of modules and electronics - they DON'T show the best deals (sometimes missing complete sites!). That MAY be due to the way in which the site is constructed and not being Google friendly. I FREQUENTLY find stuff easily on eBay that NEVER shows up in a Google search. Use AllDatasheet.com for component datasheets, but do not forget Datasheet Archive and others - Google IS good for finding stuff like that. For components and especially in the UK do not forget places like Farnell (Element14) or RS (rswww.com) order before mid afternoon and it will usually fall through your letterbox before the following afternoon - STANDARD service!
ESR meter is a must!... I have an analog Creative electronic ESR meter, I paid $200 long time ago for it and I can say it is very good (made in the USA).
Having a 24 volt power supply is also helpful for any kind of robotics, motor control, pneumatics, hydraulics or hobbyist creation. You can get a very good used Siemens or Phoenix Contact DIN rail mount power supply for $20 on ebay. There are loads of 24 volt standard DIN rail mount equipment available from industrial pulls, cheap.
The Australian language is just drunkards talking English. The difference in the original video is that it's a rare example of an Australian experiencing nearly 30 full minutes of sobriety.
If you look around on ebay you can get some great deals on power supplies. I picked up a Transistor Design three output lab supply that is built like a battleship, probably weighs 20 pounds. This unit has a 0-7v 5a output and dual (tracking is selectable) 0-32v 1a for $50 shipped. It has variable over current on all three outputs; each output has it's own analog meter. I worked in the power supply industry for almost 30 years and this unit was built very well and will probably outlast me.
To be honest, yes and nope. They last a really long time and if you are a hobbyist only, you can get away with home made or cheap ebay stuff many times. If you spend a long and by that I mean *really damn long* time looking around and searching reviews, you can cut on prices. For example I found a site in my country that sells stuff with 5$ 2 day shipping for many times better prices than ebay and I buy from them occasionally. They sell with discount per quantity too. What you should do is NOT just hitting up ebay or google, but local electronics forums and try to find out where people buy their trusted stuff
All of this is for a price of an iPhone, so take your pick. A useless hunk of metal that can break at any point in time ending with you losing your data. Or a possibly lifetime's worth of workshop supplies to keep you working and curious!
Started with a crappy iron and my dads multimeter! I would probably add an electric drill, Drilling your pcbs, panels, screws.. But you probably want one for alot of other stuff as well! Now i've got most of the stuff mentioned and getting more as i go along, just get what you need when you need it and you will be happy! Actually you will probaly run out of space anyway! Once you start it's very hard to not "ooh, i'm probably gonna use that someday" and then you'll have so much you can't keep track of it all! I've started to get plastic organizers for each(well, a few) project, and it's awesome to just pick it up and have all stuff you need right there.
I was given a soldering iron from work that they didn't use (was sitting in a drawer for a long time, and they had one with a station / adjustment knob and all for a long time). I took it home, bought a light switch dimmer knob from home depot, hooked it up / spliced the soldering iron cable, added an output mains wire and BAM i have an adjustable soldering iron using a Weller iron (and it works well now that you can adjust the temp).
I have a couple B&B O scopes, and a 250MHz Tek, and 3 or 4 Fluke bench meters, Fluke hand held. Vacuum tube testers, 2 Weller soldering pencils, an antique bridge (mostly for decoration) and a couple of LCRs. I also have curve tracers for SS and valves. I worked as an electrician in industry for many years. I won't use anything but a Fluke DVM. I have power supplies from the antique Lambda regulated 500 VDC B+ to smaller DC regulated and a great powered bread board 0-15 0-+15 and 5VDC!
Good video I am missing allot but i picked up a good Hakko 888D and a Fluke 117 Multi-Meter oh yeah and an arduino kit I next I will build a power supply for my bench then i can work on getting an oscilloscope
+Breaking Elegance That's the idea, build a PSU and get stuff as you need it. You can find most of the parts for a linear PSU in old equipment dumped on the roadside for waste collection. You can find an off the shelf unpopulated PCB and a suitable housing in the shops or online. My microwave went bang on Monday leaving a really clean hole through the cavity lining where the magnetron was. I'm now salvaging the remains for PSU bits, I can use the RTC elsewhere, I can sell some of the other components magnetron is going for nearly as much as the microwave cost. Do be careful with mains voltages though.
Seriously? It seems that you don't work with MCUs. The 117 doesn't even have a mA range! My multimeter has that range broken, and it's a big PITA since I can't easily measure the current for the MCUs.
Just to throw in a few favorites of mine. 1. Wire wrapping tool. A few dollars. Comes in handy for attaching various wires to dual in line connectors. 2. 30-day pill boxes- A few dollars. Great for staging SMD components before you start to assemble your board. Also good for just general component storage. 3. LT Spice- Free. Simulate it before you build it. If it is not working as expected in the sim, then it probably will not work for real.
Hey mate can't thank you enough for this. New to electronics but absolutely loving everything i have learn't so far. Starting an Electronics Engineering degree in September and this video is exactly what i needed. What with the range of equipment needed and having to filter out all the shitty products on the market, things were becoming a bit overwhelming, but you clear everything up perfectly. Top bloke, i look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
+Mister Marc It's a joke, a used hp48gx goes for about $5. He's referring to the extremely high prices of the "essential" tools Dave talks about in the video.
Sometimes you hear someone's enthusiasm for a subject and it makes you enthusiastic about it and then you remember you've been soldering forever and it's a chore you don't want to do.
im just waiting for when i go to use my DaveCAD and i demands my username, password and email to start spamming me with deals and offers! marketing BS, hopefully never in DaveCAD
Most important thing for me is a big table you're not afraid to burn with your iron or stain with chemicals, and a proper way to hold your work. It doesn't matter if you only have a cheap ass multi-meter, no oscilloscope, a 9v battery with stripped wires as power supply, and a non-regulated iron, a proper space is one of the most important things.
+High Hopes this type of stuff does not get updated very often. seriously, last major update was the transition from analogue oscilloscopes and waveform generators to digital ones. everything else lasts for DECADES. and now that we's gone digital, those tools would also last you many years. also, don't be afraid to buy all the stuff, you can easily sell it. also, if you don't want to sped too much money, buy second hand!
I'm becoming something of an expert at "reading between the lines" of Ebay listings, to get a good deal. Some tips.... If there are several used instruments available for a particular listing, they're probably from a lab that was upgrading, so they're probably good. If a device is listed as "parts..." and there's some indication the seller doesn't have the slightest idea what the thing is, it's probably good. I acquired a very nice Fluke 45, (cheaply) that way. AVOID scopes & spectrum analyzers, when it says, "powers up," if there's something "screwy" with the trace. Sometimes the seller will say that turning the knobs cause no meter indication, when you know that's normal....probably a good catch. And don't underestimate "gut" feeling.
Good advice for a decent lab. But do not forget a PC near your workbench and a good EDA Software. Very essential to etch your PCBs and to search for mistakes in your design, to download, read and store datasheets. Not to mention searching the web for help or to generate gerber data for ordering PCBs at service providers.
What? Test gear is much more expensive now than ever before. Agilent has a few scopes that start at $400,000 with 66GHz of bandwidth on a single channel.
Jordan Whitley 66 GHz on any channel, is always expensive :-) Such a possibility was probably classified as top secret, in the 1980s. In the 1980s, the cheapest 40MHz dual channel scope (Kikisui for example) with a delay timebase, was running at around £800 (sterling) of 1980s money. In 1982, I paid £350 +VAT (John's Radio, Birmingham), for a second hand Tektronix 647A, 50 MHZ dual channel with delay timebase, and an 18KV EHT, so that you could clearly see the trace, when looking at a 1ms pulse. A Gould Beta, bench digital multimeter, cost £150 + VAT. Thus, I maintain that test gear has never been less expensive.
If you're talking about buying an 80's scope or analyzer, in that sense, yes they are much cheaper than before. If you want to stay up to speed though, it really hasnt changed all that much. The early 80's was a bit before my engineering time, so out of seniority, I will agree, ha. Have a good one!
Charles Smyth haha, thats for sure. It's actually 63GHz, I just looked it up again, it is the fastest scope on the market right now. Here is a link, base model starts @ $434,000 USD. (I can't beleive they are changing their name from Agilent to KeySight Technologies, Agilent is well established in the test engineering market, Agilent will now be reserved for their medical equipment) www.home.agilent.com/en/pd-2108916-pn-DSOX96204Q/infiniium-high-performance-oscilloscope-63-ghz?nid=-33202.1010840&cc=US&lc=eng We have a Agilent DSO9254 at work, and I absolutely love it, it's kind of sketchy working with $50,000 test equipment, I don't want to be the guy who throws an earth ground on one of the probes haha. I did buy a Rigol DS2202A scope for my home bench, and for the price, just over $1,700, I was blown away by the performance of such a cheap, new scope. There are definitely a few companies like Rigol and Salae Logic that have new, cheaper test equipment. We'll see how long it lasts, but from what I have seen so far, I have been very impressed by those two companies.
Make sure that those Digital Multi Meters have fused inputs and if you are testing at mains voltage, fully insulated fused test leads. I will not use anything less than CAT III although most equipment I have is CAT IV. Fluke do quite a use full document entitled “ABCs of multi meter safety” which is well worth looking at.
It's all the same if you're still getting the job done, but yeah, soldering stations way better than soldering irons if you wanna work with ease. You don't even have to buy something expensive either.
Make sure you're using flux too, flux is pure magic if you haven't been using it, don't just use it for SMD stuff. Get it in a little drip bottle too so you can use it on wires and stuff as well.
I would add a small desktop brush, and a way to clean up after cutting so many component leads on the bench. A vacuum with a small hose is also a good way to clean up. It may seem to obvious, but a nice machinist's tool box is a handy addition to keep things organized.
+Foxy rollins joking, but you don't need all this equipment to start a lab. You can also build a lot of these tools for cheaper - I have a budget lab psu that i.posted on my channel
You surely don't. A power supply, a couple of breadboards, a good soldering station, a multimeter and a pair of snips is really all you need to start. The rest can be bought at any later time.
This stuff lasts for years. Take your time, acquire over the years. I started on SMD soldering in 1983, it wasnt until 2000 that I got a decent stereo microscope (for free, by luck). When you get the good stuff, keep hold of it!
You should do a new version of this. 10 years might have made you change your mind about some things.
I have this same thought every now and then. Especially now that Dave did a new $50 oscilloscope video. Even though the video still holds up, I really want to see a 4K retake with new tips.
Sounds like a plan, and a good one.
@@Bluelagoonstudios My high school electronics teacher was in the last year before retirement and he was very proud of his book on how to run a TV repair business. What's really funny is that this was right about the time when TV repair started to become pointless. As a high school kid I never bought his book of course but years later I decided to look it up and found a copy on Amazon for like $5 so I bought it. He actually did a good job for the time but it's laughable today. Times change and so do labs.
@@dougcox835 I mean… the story is cool and I see where you're coming, but what has really changed in the last decade that would render the basics in this video to be obsolete? As I said, I'd be down for a retake with some updated tips and 4K60 nonsense, but it's still solid as is. It's not like it's forty years old and has Dave telling us to get a logic probe until we can afford or access an oscilloscope.
Some things that have changed are prices, specifically mentioned models and the availability of some kits. It's still a good video and following it will still get you started with a useful lab.
A new video would really just bring us new tips, things Dave may have missed, references to newer models of equipment, etc. Otherwise, I really don't know if there will be a drastic difference between this and a newer video. Especially not anything that you can't find out with a few minutes of follow up research. 🤔
I don't think a new video is necessary, but damn would it be appreciated and cool.
@@EricYTP Yup, my story covered decades so not quite the same. I would leave it up to Dave to decide which areas might be different.
Dave Cad, bin, and fire extinguisher were the best ones. It is also missing a broomstick to turn the switch on from a safe distance.
+Renato Pierri
Well, I wouldn't have thought of a fire extinghuisher, but it makes sense.
LOL
A first aid kit is nice too, for close encounters with the iron.
@@jamesdriscoll9405 do you do something when you burn yourself? Years have thought me not to bother with that and keep working, as there's not much to do when you burn with the iron.
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Most important thing you need: a specific project you want to do. Without something specific, you'll have real difficulty just doodling around.
so true
where can you find some good project ideas, I'm a student just trying to learn
"Without something specific, you'll have real difficulty just doodling around."
It's a bit of a catch-22. Without test equipment it is not easy to imagine projects. I have and still am realizing things I can do with a DSO that were simply not possible with even a very good analog oscilloscope. Just in the past few days I have started experimenting with glitch detection using the "mask" function of a Keysight oscilloscope. It can run for hours and then freeze on a glitch. Save to USB storage or whatever.
I could not think of a need for a 4 channel scope so I bought a 2 channel scope. Well, now I have a need, so I bought a 4 channel scope. But it needs to be a good one and Keysight is the successor to Hewlett-Packard, from back when it was an engineering tool provider, and it just feels right. Do I need two scopes? Well, now I realize that each can have a different ground reference; so two scopes each using 2 channels is still better than 1 scope using all four IF you need a different ground reference on the channels.
This is for me the best electronics teacher and engineer. If I had found a person like you when I started in electronics, I would have never abandoned the job. I was an expert with repairing radios, but retired when I saw the SMD devices. If I would have seen you in those days I would have continued. It is a real pleasure when you repair an electronics device. It cannot be described in words here.
I was designing circuits and laying out boards when surface mount technology first came out. I found it easy to get used to and pretty cool. For prototyping we got one of those stupid fancy rework station things but the truth is I could do better changing out components, even QFPs, with simply a soldering iron and solder wick. People would not believe me until I showed them then they were like 🤯 boca abierta.
I could sum it up in a single word: "FUN!" Dave makes electronics fun! No matter why you need the info, business or pleasure, he teaches it the way it should be taught! Many people get into fields they love, but end up getting burnt out because it doesn't stay fun, rather it transforms into something they need to get paid to do! I know this as it happened to me too, but I was on the computer-side for over two decades. I retired as an accountant!
SMD and custom ASIC. That's where I get off the boat.
Watching old EEVBlog ... those two multimeters reminded me of a saying: "a man with one watch knows the time; a man with two isn't sure anymore."
I already own an electronic lab, I was just looking for upgrades, and this video was insightful. I have a desoldering gun, very usefull to recycle components from pcb and save money on buying electronic parts. when I started this hobby, my first purchase for my electronic lab was a power supply, over the years I kept upgrading my electronic lab, and now I have semi professional lab. I didn't buy everything at once, and I don't think everyone should buy everything at once, start small and then expand your lab as you learn and experiment with electronic components. electronics is a hobby to relieve stress, and everyone should get involved, this is a motivational videos for people who don't know what they are missing. thanks for sharing.
You covered a lot of gear in a short time. I'd suggest, with a bit of US humor, you're excellent overview of lab gear is missing two pieces of kit. The terrific fundamental lab you described is missing a coffee maker and a proper beer fridge.
Don't worry, he's Australian, probably has an esky with him at all times
Rick Saffery If you get the proper adjustable temp soldering iron you can also make your coffee. Two birds one stone.
Oh PLEASE! In the UK and Oz a PROPER beer fridge is called a pub and if he's any sense he'll have found a house or workshop within metres of one - fridges frequently run out but pubs rarely do! LOL :)
I have a combined beer and solder paste fridge. Probably not recommended, but it works
MrEdrftgyuji Keeping them together ... no worries ... consuming them together ... hmmmm not so good. 😂
The *bare minimum* equipment I found:
- a good, temperature-controlled soldering iron.
- a multimeter (2 are better, but you can start with one).
- an adjustable power supply
You can start with that and buy equipment *as you need it*!
Once you start working on a project, you'll find out what you need in your lab.
Just add some *margin*: if you have a simple project that requires a 20MHz oscilloscope, but you think you'll get more serious about electronics later, get a 50MHz or a 100MHz scope, so you don't have to constantly upgrade.
Of course, a 1GHz scope would be overkill. The price goes up *exponentially* with bandwidth!
If you have a friend or two who are also into electronics and none of you will do electronics full time, you all can chip in and buy a better oscilloscope, better multimeters etc. together and time share them.
Do you do SMD? Then, you'll need at least 2 pairs of good quality tweezers and a hot air rework station.
I also got a small electric cooking plate (around $30), so I don't have to use the stove for reflow soldering.
A good magnifying lamp and magnifying goggles are essential.
Do you do digital circuits only? A 0-15V 3A power bench supply should do it.
Are you building a robot with high-power motors? You'll probably need a 50V / 10A or 20A power supply (look at the datasheets for the maximum voltage rating of the motor driver ICs and the motors !).
If you have the money, a good thermal camera will greatly speed up debugging of any circuit and it will make great thermal design possible.
@Travis Ireland hi Travis I've just started same time as we went in to lock down I've would recommend a variable power supply I use i mine all the time ,plus I bought a second hand one off FB a farnell linea £20 and he gave a fluke bench multimeter ,I've just ordered a oscilloscope don't know how to use one but I'll learn ,enjoy m8
@Travis Ireland check out "drone bot workshop" make one out of a ATX power supply out of an old computer,it will give you 3.5v ,5v and 12v,👍
instruction not clear, i bought the whole shop
that's basically what the instructions were
Ostrica391 Instruction basically tells to buy the whole shop.
Instructions perfectly clear, worked as intended.
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Get one multimeter or get 3.
Because when you have 2 multimeters and one says 1,5 V and the other says 1,7 V, which one do you trust?
furrydog 73 Its 1.6v obviously :)
Yes, that was a bad example ...
You're right!
;-)
Everyone knows, you can't trust 1.7v
Befriend a calibrator facilities... to have your instruments calibrated at a lower price ☺
furrydog 73 (1.5+1.7)/2=1.6
I must have watched this back in 2012. I think I can attribute my success in school, and as an Engineering Technologist and Telecommunications Technician to this video.
This video, and Dave's channel, must be the biggest reason I was so interested in electronics, and so capable at learning this stuff easily over my peers.
I learned How an op amp Works thanks to him
You forgot to mention the various cad softwares and cnc router, metal lathe, 3d printer; a backup 4000w generator for those stormy days, molding material, metal liquifying machine.
and the mini fridge full of refreshements/snacks, piss station/gourde and the "do not disturb" and "No I'm not building a spaceship" sign for hanging outside the door. At least that's how far Ive gotten.
+_ _ ""No I'm not building a spaceship"" Does that fool anyone? Be honest...
+George Tsiros I really don't think he needs to build one... I have a funny feeling they come built in: e{a}/t=hv
But you better check real quick and that's super easy to do if you go by the book and use the specs.
1: Turn on a light....
2: Make sure the photon's clock is not moving for accuracy....
3: Check your speed.
In my book anything over a few hundred thousand miles an hour and it's working. I'm not sure why everyone else is in such a hurry and some people have to get so darn technical and worry about a few Nano seconds gained here and there. I mean it's not like we actually know where we are going anyway so I'd like to know why it matters so much....
?
+George Tsiros It was a joke George... maybe I should lay off the mourning cup of coffee;-) But it is based on proven facts with some logic thrown in. From the photon's frame of reference it's not moving as its clock speed shows. It's the Observer that's moving looking at its own clock move as it moves past the photon's location in spacetime. It's an interesting paradox involving deep concepts of symmetry because the Observer's eyes and senses held in place by the strong force is looking at light being generated by the weak force that powers the Sun... meaning the Observer is looking at a speed of light clock generate the light it sees which should stop the Observer's clock too. The paradox is resolved by adding one of two things where only one choice is correct:
1: A loose cable (As CERN said when the issue came up in 2011: (v-c)/c=2.48e-5 sec gained in 453.6 miles)
2: The asymmetry of the weak force which adds 3.6 seconds a year to the speed of light giving us the intermediary state needed separating the positron (anti-electron) from its electron (neutrino space) and the time needed to move in under the effect of constant time dilation. (As SLAC and others proved by showing SLAC's E158 ratio matched CERN's data creating an asymmetry in time SLAC confirmed in 2012 by using their old BaBar experiment data and "looking at it differently".)
The equation e{a}/t=hv (where E=hv to keep it simple) shows the fine structure constant ratio is being maintained by the asymmetry of the weak force and ratio of time dilation in effect. It shows the asymmetry of the weak force {a} is acting like a scales fulcrum keeping E a constant using time dilation as the length of time/space increases.
A video of the process would prove a picture is worth a thousand words as it's not as difficult to understand seeing it as it is to explain. We have entered a new era of physics without missing dark matter and energy but as usual it takes awhile for people to believe it before trying to understand it. Cool thing is it only takes basic 6th grade level math to see for yourself as that's all that was needed to reduce SLAC's E158 ratio down to 453.6 miles and the hard part connecting space to time (literally) is already done and posted online. Take care...
+_ _ definitely a fridge!
When you really think about it, it isn't that expensive at all. Most people spend at least as much on computers and musical instruments when they can get by on a lot less. If you're serious about electronics, all this stuff is worth getting, and ensuring that you'll have a good time.
Great video, Dave!
its "how long is a piece of string" with electronics lab equipment. e,g multimeter $5- $5000, oscilloscope $20-infinity, power, supplies/function generators same story. The fact they can make these things so cheap amazes me as much as how god damn expensive it can all get
Im an electronics engineer that really only have worked with software for the last 20 years. About 6 months ago i wanted to start with hardware again. What do I need ? Well i could go and search my memory 20 years back - or...look at this video....
I took the last choice.And went out and bought: Rigol DS1052E Oscilloscope, Antex 660A Soldering station, Basetech BT-305 Lab powersupply (0-30V/0-3A), UniTrend UT109 Multimeter, A lot of hand tools, a hole bunch of cheap components from China (all kinds of resistors, capacitors, Arduino PCBs, LCD Displays, etc.)...maybe i went a little overboard....still missing a Stereo Microscope for SMD work, ESD protection equipment (argh....), function generator (im about to build one :P ) ...but i certainly got a lot of inspiration from this video...Thx.
Best wishes! The first Scope I bought cost me a thousand pounds (a hameg 20MHz DSO) but last twenty years... Over that time I was lucky to score a better one for free and still pass my hameg onto a new electronics hobbyist... I now tend to buy a decent tool once a month, spending as much as I can on quality, so it will last.
27 mins of proper lab / shop advice.. and you NEVER tell us where to get the killer 555 t-shirt? ha
I took a high reliability soldering course in the RCAF and we were told to use 63/37 solder as it has no plastic state. It helps prevent cold solder joints because it goes from liquid to solid immediately. With other solders, if there is any movement or vibration during it’s plastic state the joint will probably end up as a cold solder joint.
My parents got me a Hakko FX-888D probably 8 years ago when I was 19, I still use it to this day and the only thing I had to change was the tip. It is a fantastic soldering station with phenomenal build quality and a lot of adaptability with the iron tips. Definitely a must have for any electronics lab, even for a hobbyist it makes a world of difference in your soldering.
I just recently picked up a 35Mhz Philips dual trace CRT scope on eBay for $27.00 USD + $20.00 shipping.
It was originally made in ~ 1976/1978 thereabouts and the A channel knob is a bit wonky, needs a good shot of Deoxit all round and the detents are none too tight anymore (have to thump a knob or two to set it right) but otherwise it works fine. Great little learner scope and fantastic value for money.
raven21633 It should give useful service, and you can't argue about the price!
EEVblog what multicore solder do you use as in the part number or series etc. Thanks.
+EEVblog I subscribed after seeing this vid , i just want to tell you that this and your soldering tutorial helped me a LOT , and i want to thank you for that , i watched most of your videos especially teardowns and mailbag :) . oh and as you said on the end :))) everyone starts with a crap multimiter and a pair of wire cutters :))) well that's how i started :) i made my own PSU from an old 450W PC PSU and i maked it variable 0-12V and its very good and stable :) my multimeter is just crap , the resistance function doesn't work and my probes are in heaven now :))) i melted it a bit while measuring around 15A current from that PSU to a battery :)) i just wanted to see how much it will take , but after i got a new multimiter i will keep the old one as a memory :) it helped me a lot :) i still search for an oscilloscope but are waaay to expensive , even second hand :( i'll find one cheaper i hope :) Thank You +EEVblog for doing these videos , it helps a lot many people . here , in romania most of the engineeres don't even care abount someone who wants to learn..... in the only electronic profile highschool here in my city i've seen the teachers telling students to move furniture in the practice class :( and i didnt moved there :( so you and your AWESOME vlog remains my only info source (and of course forums and the saint Google) :))
+EEVblog Could you please do a video on your tools that you use for tear downs?
Also ham radio flea markets are a gold mine of electronics tools and components, dirt cheap usually (negotiation encouraged) but also a lot of it is in good shape, and can be tested on site
He forgot to mention the vice as a must-have in your lab.
This is exactly the type of video I was looking for. Very straight forward and comprehensive.
Thank you for opening your workspace to the public! It is rare to find individuals willing to share the ins and outs of their profession.
This video has convinced me that I need to get to work and just do what I love full time.
Again, Thanks much!
~David.
I knew an adult movie star once who couldn't help but share the ins and outs of his profession...
@@marbleshark6 Hello, do you still assume your joke 7 years later ? :-D
My first project for my electronics lab was the fume hood.
6 computer fans with speed control from a salvage yard, ~$1.
A quad op amp and some passives to build the 25KHz fan control driver, ~$1.
Hdpe sheet, hvac tape, and weather strip for pressure seals ~$2 worth actually used.
4" of scrap cat6, free.
An old aquarium, free.
Some scrap wood, free.
a tiny 12v wall wart, free.
About 4 bucks and a few hours of fiddling gets you the cure for coughing to death. Don't breath the fumes folks.
1:07
I fully expected him to run somewhere.
This is incredible to me. I remember watching this when it came out 7 years ago and thought that it was just so much gear to get going on. I now have about three times as much gear and everything on the list. It really is amazing how much money you can throw into this Hobby if you are sick of d****** around without the right tools. Ahaha
Do you do it just for hobby? Are you plaanning a formal education here? Are you making a carrer with it? Just asking. I'm highschool
@Marcin Berman what eo you mean
Sell your iphone X to get all this
This is the best advice
Then build a better phone than iPhone at a fraction of the price. Mass produce it and make a fortune.
@@AmbiguousAdventurer The start of Oneplus in a nutshell
I never had the money to set up a lab all at once. That would have been great. But after 40 years or so it seemed like I had most of what I needed. And as I get better and better at electronics it seems I need to use the equipment less and less often. I hardly ever even need the fire extinguisher anymore. And it's been a year or more since I got shocked. I guess I've been doing too much micro-controller work. Time to get back to tubes.
"Don't buy a MM over $100 like the brilliant FLUKE one I have over my shoulder..."
You sir, have a lot of energy. Love the enthusiasm!
And here i am repairing stuff with 25w Weller iron and Radio Shack Digital multimeter
I started out that way as well and then found I needed "x" for a project, then "y" for another project and over time my shop ended up looking like his lol. It's true of all trades that work can always be done with basic tools.
I started out like that too. When I find I need an x or a y, I take a sip from my cup of water and simply carry on with the shit I've got.
I need to learn how to do that, instead of using each challenge as an excuse to buy a new type of tool.
repaired 1000+ electronics with old mastech multimeter, selfmade powersupply, old used soviet scope.
@@intesral
Respect. In America us old timers call that "ingenuity".
I was an electronics hobbyist has a child so I started out that way.
All I did was buy a 20$ soldering Iron with a temp probe and then built everything I needed myself from YT tutorials and easy made kits from ebay. By the time I had all my gear sorted I was ready to repair and make just about everything.
Don't always choose to just buy ready made expensive things, be adventurous and make what you can by yourself. You'll learn a lot, you'll have gear tuned and tweaked to how you want it and if anything goes bad, you know how to fix it as cheap as it was to make it.
you can diy basically everything except the oscilloscope, for any good bandwidth/ sampling rate you need to buy.
I love your videos man, even the old ones, no matter how long ago that you uploaded , learning is infinite .
thank you
i never skipped the ads on your video.. Because this is the only way to "pay" your valuable information for free.. Thanks a lot for your great effort and your kindness to do this 🙏
Excellent, i think that everybody should have a first aid kit too!
Produced in 2011 and still loaded with good, essential, basic information. Excellent video. There is a newer version which is quite good too. Both videos are essential to watch for the beginner and an excellent review for the more advanced. Thanks, EEV.
Aaron Gill-Braun
Maybe, I failed. But, I was trying to say "watch and learn" from the two videos and put together an electronic lab you need and can afford.
Thank you for getting me thinking about the scopes which lead me to this pontification.
Personally, the best scope I could afford is mandatory for me then at least one but for me a mandatory minimum of two good multimeters. Then collect everything else as you can afford until you have everything mentioned and more as time goes by.
Thanks again and I hope we have helped others on their quest to learn electronics.
Instead of an expensive function generator, I use a free android app alongside a 3.5 mm to phono and some phono to BNC adaptors. It works fine for me and cost about 3 pounds total (excluding the tablet that I had anyway).
What is the bandwidth/frequency range? The android apps I found all only go to 20kHz.
Binj Komisar this is all about DAC in phone. I highly doubt that it can go over 20kHz and also sine-wave can be not exactly sine etc.
Maximum frequency: 22khz, and on my scope the sine is clean. Mind you, I am using a rather outdated 100mhz iwatsu, so some accuracy may be lost there. I don't deny that it isn't as good as a purpose built function generator, but for my purposes with my scope it does what I need.
So shame on me then.. I was thinking that cheap-ass DAC in phones cant really produce nice sine wave.
Exactly. I may buy a real function generator if I need one, but for now, this cheap alternative is best for me.
I use to do small electronics projects as a kid and finding your TH-cam channel brought back very fond memories. I was salivating with your description of a nice electronics lab. I wish I had the time to get beck to this cool hobby. Thanks for this video!
To accumulate thousands of dollars of equipment these two things help a lot: Start making some kind of income with it first. Space out purchases (I prefer more than a year).
Don't make the hobby you love just an expense, it doesn't have to be. Show people your cool projects and they will think of things you can do for income. Get used to tracking the income/expenses to help decide when it's time to upgrade something.
is that what you did? what were some of your techniques to monetize your 'hobby'? ☺
One hobby is putting together old computer parts and find uses like home automation. Since I gained parts and skills, people started paying me to repair their computers. They often give me old parts so I have more to play with.
I refurbished a hakko FM-202 iron off ebay and invested in Autotrax PCB design so when I explore Arduino and other fun projects I can sell my own kits.
megalomania345 I started more than 8 years ago, some of these come and go. Was this around back then? If I think it's good enough, I'll recommend it to people too. Thanks
Glad you included the Fire Extinguisher. I had a work buddy that was working on high current SCRs. He would go into the lab, grab the extinguisher off of the wall, and set it beside him before turning power onto his projects. There were several times when he blew flames out the side of the SCRs. [By the way, this was by design as he was pushing the device limits. I learned a valuable lesson on how powerful electricity can be in high current applications.]
Throw out failed projects? Naaaahh! Every component I have was salvaged from something else, so if I make something and it doesn't work, I'll desolder it all back apart and reuse the components that still actually work. All I throw out are things that are actually broken/burned out, or things like transistors with the numbers all rubbed off so I have no idea what they are. Oh, and I throw out the old circuit boards that I'm done removing components from.
The biggest thing you need for an electronics lab is TIME. It does no good to spend 10 or 15 minutes at a time because you can't get anything done in that amount of time. You need real hobby time to sit down and put things together, take things apart, and experiment. Also, you need reference materials of some sort, whether actual books or a computer you can use to bring up PDF files or find things online, especially when it comes to looking up data sheets.
megalomania345 Yeah, more or less. I'm a weekend tinkerer, playing around with electronics for fun with an interest to actually understand how the components work together. Every time I've fixed something it was by sheer dumb luck: fixed a burned out TV by replacing a large resistor, fixed a speaker set subwoofer by replacing one of the capacitors, fixed a Commodore 64 by desoldering the ICs with a blow torch and setting the board on fire in the process (it worked when I was done!). And every one of those times I have no idea how I figured out it was those particular components that was shot.
I highly recommend this channel. Cheap as chips. Don’t let anyone tell you different. An absolute no-brainer as well. Highly recommend. Very handy. Very important. Highly recommended.
My pet peeve: English-speaking people get Sweden and Switzerland mixed up 9 times out of 10. The cutters even say "Made in Sweden" on them, for crying out loud :)
Consider this a handy cheat sheet:
Sweden: blonde&blue-eyed scandinavian people, Nobel prices, Saab, AGA.
Switzerland: the word "swiss", small independent country in the middle of Europe, chockolate, clocks, army knives. Victorinox, Swatch, ABB.
Full disclosure: I'm neither swiss or swedish, but know my geography :P Lot's of love!
ABB is pretty much 50/50 of both countries :P
what is Finland famous for ? (apart from racing car drivers.) :)
btw, when you said blonde+blue eyes scans... i instantly thought about Kimi Räikkönen - lol
Son of a Zombie What about Angry Birds?!
ungratefulmetalpansy maybe something related to 'Chock-O-Late'.
shinmai in Spanish they are call Suiza and Suecia and i always have to think wich is wich or i get confused, in English i can easily distinguish them and never get them confused.
I am switching over from software to hardware and learning about power supplies is where I am really starting since they are so important. I'm glad you point out how important it is to build many of your own when you are starting out in this deal. A good place to find switches are from old ceiling and box fans. They are rated for 3 to 5 amps and many of the old ones seem to be high quality. Using those switches are good good exercise in learning about snubber circuits, RC networks, and filtering. And for that you need a scope. So it all really goes around in a big circle....
Add some "helping hands" to that list... 5 well spent buckaroos
Nah...couple of wooden clothes pegs screwed to an offcut of wood. Leaves the helping hand rubbish in the dust
and add an LCR meter with ESR to the list. Especially if you've got a cheapo basic DMM.
Fun ! Thanks for the cool review.
"There's nothing like having 30,000 RPM to do some serious damage!"
This is very true.
Without this video I would be hopeless at soldering. I am very confident now with my electronic repairs. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
I gave up on veroboard / breadboards after uni and invested in a UV PCB exposure lamp. Best thing i ever did. No more through hole, no more veroboard, 5 minutes to produce a single side PCBs. Do everything in 1206 = Easymode + no drilling!!! Winner!
2:48 the worst I ever been shocked was right after using a tick tester. Checked inside a box working high voltage 3 phase and tester did not detect neutral ...could taste copper for about half the day....
Volt Sticks should ONLY be used for fault finding - NEVER to confirm live or dead. There are countless stories of people being shocked because the stick failed to detect the voltage (one I'm personally aware of where a apprentice was thrown out of a ceiling cavity).
In one of Dave's other videos he mentioned using chisel tips rather than conical: Changed my life. Seriously I thought it was my skills sucking and that I had learned nothing about how to solder. Started using chisel tips, Boom, Joy All Day.
Hi, EEVblog, I live in a third world country, its pretty hard to me to get things here, and the things are so expensive (3X times because the devaluated currency plus the shiping and the importation tax), can you do a video on how to set up an electronics lab on budget.
i totaly agree with you - you dont need all this stuff to get started - i learned a lot of all this stuff by my own and own about the same things like you. when i got professional about this topic i studied at school with labs filled with the stuff dave told about and its like working in heaven! you get much faster - find mistakes quicker understand things better when you have all of this tools. it helped me a lot just to fool around with this things to see what i ned and what i don't need.
There's nothing wrong with a Chinese clone soldering station. I replaced my Weller with a Chinese hakko 942 clone I found for $19. I've had it for years and used it for hours on end, it's a great station and if it breaks I'll get another.
Beaverdam Creek Hakko is the gold standard now....can’t touch them for under $100.
Excellent and very informative video! I've built up many of these tools over the years. My "workshop" has decent lighting, but I've found that a good headlamp really helps me a considerable amount. The cheap-o models work, but don't last as long. For example, the Fenix headlamps cost a little more but are durable. The fact that you can adjust the brightness level makes it an invaluable tool.
Damn that is expensive. I guess I will just work from a multimeter and maybe some voltage regulators off of a SLA battery for voltage and a crap solder and that is about all I have. Well not too bad for me because I am not that into electronics yet but I really just want to get old electronics and see how they work and use them.
Taking apart old stuff is so much fun, and you can harvest a lot of components that way.
Skip the digital oscilloscope and just go with an analog one for now, then, if you're not doing specialized work that requires the storage capabilities of digital one. Can always buy the digital one later. You can also try going for used gear for other stuff like a soldering iron (though do buy a new tip for it if the included tip isn't in good condition).
Hello there! You can get an old analog scope for about 50 bucks and it is pretty decent! You can also get a soldering iron for about 10 bucks-just go for the transformer pistol-shaped one with a copper wire tip. I've even used it to solder SMD components-even the really tiny ones-and it's doable, even though it's not recommended due to the risk of overheating of your components. As to the multimeter-I still have my $5 one and it's okay for sorting resistors, checking for continuity (short/no short), measuring if batteries are ok and if the wire is live... And you don't often need more. Also-you can easily build a lab supply out of an old PC atx power supply-just add some dummy load (resistors, bulbs...) cut off the connectors and connect the green wire from the motherboard supply to ground. And you got yourself a switchmode 12v/5v/3.3 V high power short circuit-protected supply. You should also get some cutting pliers and a lot of wire-or else you will constantly be running out of it. But I think $50 will get you started in 10 seconds flat.
I usually don't really buy the point that an analog scope is good to start. When I first got into electronics a couple of years ago, I started with digital, not analog. An analog scope is really no good for debugging SPI signals.
Yeah, well, that depends on how you start with electronics. If you're like me, you started with MCUs and digital (I already knew programming when I started with electronics, so that part was easy for me).
"Incredibly thin solder". YES!! Thank you. A place where I used to work who manufacture pressure testing equipment / manometers would insist on me using a thicker solder which had far less flux in it, I hated the stuff. It may have been due to the ROHS regulations for lead-free solder, I can't remember. It was a while ago now - 2001.
Using thinner solder gives you more control, allowing you to fine-tune the amount applied. The multicore solder in this video is exactly what I use. It has plenty of flux in it for a nice shiny and clean join, but can give off a bit of residue from the burnt flux. Clean it off after and you'll have a nice and shiny join that's not dry and grey.
If you cut the multi-core solder in this video with a scalpel, you can actually see the 5 cores exactly as it shows on the label. It makes you wonder how they manage to arrange them in solder like that, being so small. :O A useless bit of info for ya....lol.
Another tip for soldering is to move quickly by removing the heat / iron from the joint you are soldering immediately after the solder has flowed into the join. Keeping the iron on the joint any longer than necessary will dry it out. You can never wipe a soldering iron tip too often - keep it shiny too.
Awesome video! I'm filling up my Amazon shopping cart now! May I suggest that you update this video to include the Rigol 1054Z? I just got mine today (based on your videos David), and it is such a better deal than the dated 1052E. THANK YOU SIR!!!
The fact that this video is 9 years old, and looks better than some stuff being put out today makes me happy. Cheers.
mom can i have 1000 dollars?
+J. Yi :D
+Marc M.
Links please? You would really help me!
$1550 total
Links? Google is your friend, but start with places like eBay.com (.co.uk or wherever - obvious), Banggood.com, mininthebox.com, lightinthebox.com, gearbest.com, any others you can find doing tools and electronics parts. Avoid JUST Google and Amazon when searching for a lot of modules and electronics - they DON'T show the best deals (sometimes missing complete sites!). That MAY be due to the way in which the site is constructed and not being Google friendly. I FREQUENTLY find stuff easily on eBay that NEVER shows up in a Google search. Use AllDatasheet.com for component datasheets, but do not forget Datasheet Archive and others - Google IS good for finding stuff like that. For components and especially in the UK do not forget places like Farnell (Element14) or RS (rswww.com) order before mid afternoon and it will usually fall through your letterbox before the following afternoon - STANDARD service!
Anyone here ever buy open box electronics from amazon,is it worth it? Seems cheaper.
This is probably the longest video I've ever watched on TH-cam.. but had it been ten times longer I would still have watched it all, thanks alot!!
Those Dave CAD`s are really irreplaceable, they have helped me out a lot through the years lol..
I find a ream of A3 paper the best value for money CAD tool. Works equally well for hardware and software!!!
ESR meter is a must!... I have an analog Creative electronic ESR meter, I paid $200 long time ago for it and I can say it is very good (made in the USA).
I'd like a site license for the Pro Version of Dave Cad please!
Probably best video on lab setup...
lol i learned the hard way with the fire extinguisher. i have one now.
Having a 24 volt power supply is also helpful for any kind of robotics, motor control, pneumatics, hydraulics or hobbyist creation. You can get a very good used Siemens or Phoenix Contact DIN rail mount power supply for $20 on ebay. There are loads of 24 volt standard DIN rail mount equipment available from industrial pulls, cheap.
"Ya gotta take stuff apart and screw things up." So, essentially, you have to break electronics.
You explain very well, and it's always a pleasure to see your videos, to learn more! thank you!
This is hilarious at 0.5 speed
its funnier at 2, sounds like and infomercial
"If you got one buy 2!"
he sounds like he's drunk! lel
The Australian language is just drunkards talking English. The difference in the original video is that it's a rare example of an Australian experiencing nearly 30 full minutes of sobriety.
Sounds like Kevin Bloody Wilson after downing a six pak.
If you look around on ebay you can get some great deals on power supplies. I picked up a Transistor Design three output lab supply that is built like a battleship, probably weighs 20 pounds. This unit has a 0-7v 5a output and dual (tracking is selectable) 0-32v 1a for $50 shipped. It has variable over current on all three outputs; each output has it's own analog meter. I worked in the power supply industry for almost 30 years and this unit was built very well and will probably outlast me.
Wow. Electronics tools are expensive...
To be honest, yes and nope.
They last a really long time and if you are a hobbyist only, you can get away with home made or cheap ebay stuff many times. If you spend a long and by that I mean *really damn long* time looking around and searching reviews, you can cut on prices. For example I found a site in my country that sells stuff with 5$ 2 day shipping for many times better prices than ebay and I buy from them occasionally. They sell with discount per quantity too.
What you should do is NOT just hitting up ebay or google, but local electronics forums and try to find out where people buy their trusted stuff
All of this is for a price of an iPhone, so take your pick.
A useless hunk of metal that can break at any point in time ending with you losing your data.
Or a possibly lifetime's worth of workshop supplies to keep you working and curious!
James Driscoll What is an mfgr ?
@@Lagggerengineering manufacturer
Started with a crappy iron and my dads multimeter! I would probably add an electric drill, Drilling your pcbs, panels, screws.. But you probably want one for alot of other stuff as well! Now i've got most of the stuff mentioned and getting more as i go along, just get what you need when you need it and you will be happy! Actually you will probaly run out of space anyway! Once you start it's very hard to not "ooh, i'm probably gonna use that someday" and then you'll have so much you can't keep track of it all! I've started to get plastic organizers for each(well, a few) project, and it's awesome to just pick it up and have all stuff you need right there.
gee, and I've gotten away with using used military gear. Bought a 50mhz scope for $0.25. Surplus equipment is the way to go.
How do you go about getting surplus military gear?
One thing I would add is a collection of heat shrink tubes. A USB microscope is also extremely useful for PCB inspection (especially SMD).
"I highly recommend it" - Dave
I was given a soldering iron from work that they didn't use (was sitting in a drawer for a long time, and they had one with a station / adjustment knob and all for a long time). I took it home, bought a light switch dimmer knob from home depot, hooked it up / spliced the soldering iron cable, added an output mains wire and BAM i have an adjustable soldering iron using a Weller iron (and it works well now that you can adjust the temp).
I love that shirt!
I have a couple B&B O scopes, and a 250MHz Tek, and 3 or 4 Fluke bench meters, Fluke hand held. Vacuum tube testers, 2 Weller soldering pencils, an antique bridge (mostly for decoration) and a couple of LCRs. I also have curve tracers for SS and valves. I worked as an electrician in industry for many years. I won't use anything but a Fluke DVM. I have power supplies from the antique Lambda regulated 500 VDC B+ to smaller DC regulated and a great powered bread board 0-15 0-+15 and 5VDC!
19:05 I have newer needed any tools to "screw things up" :-)
Wish you made a list, almost half a decade late here but this is when my life cross paths with your expertise
lol, I kept pausing to write it down
Good video I am missing allot but i picked up a good Hakko 888D and a Fluke 117 Multi-Meter oh yeah and an arduino kit I next I will build a power supply for my bench then i can work on getting an oscilloscope
+Breaking Elegance I love my 117. It has got far more usage than my more highly-featured (and expensive) Flukes. Wise buy.
+Breaking Elegance That's the idea, build a PSU and get stuff as you need it. You can find most of the parts for a linear PSU in old equipment dumped on the roadside for waste collection. You can find an off the shelf unpopulated PCB and a suitable housing in the shops or online. My microwave went bang on Monday leaving a really clean hole through the cavity lining where the magnetron was. I'm now salvaging the remains for PSU bits, I can use the RTC elsewhere, I can sell some of the other components magnetron is going for nearly as much as the microwave cost. Do be careful with mains voltages though.
Breaking Elegance pfft do you have to much money to buy a fluke? Btw those things are multimeters works fantastic
Seriously? It seems that you don't work with MCUs. The 117 doesn't even have a mA range! My multimeter has that range broken, and it's a big PITA since I can't easily measure the current for the MCUs.
Just to throw in a few favorites of mine.
1. Wire wrapping tool. A few dollars. Comes in handy for attaching various wires to dual in line connectors.
2. 30-day pill boxes- A few dollars. Great for staging SMD components before you start to assemble your board. Also good for just general component storage.
3. LT Spice- Free. Simulate it before you build it. If it is not working as expected in the sim, then it probably will not work for real.
Dave is the man
Hey mate can't thank you enough for this. New to electronics but absolutely loving everything i have learn't so far. Starting an Electronics Engineering degree in September and this video is exactly what i needed. What with the range of equipment needed and having to filter out all the shitty products on the market, things were becoming a bit overwhelming, but you clear everything up perfectly. Top bloke, i look forward to watching the rest of your videos.
How is the electrical engineering going a decade later?
You forgot the calculator... ~150 usd for a used hp48gx :P
+Mister Marc It's a joke, a used hp48gx goes for about $5. He's referring to the extremely high prices of the "essential" tools Dave talks about in the video.
+PhyberLogik where'd you find a used gx for 5$ ?
Thrift stores have them all the time. One shop near me have a box of them for a few bucks a piece.
+PhyberLogik hp48gx? In decent condition?
Some worse than others but every one was functional.
Sometimes you hear someone's enthusiasm for a subject and it makes you enthusiastic about it and then you remember you've been soldering forever and it's a chore you don't want to do.
invested in DaveCad....it doesn´t come with the needed drawing tools...
...DLC...now even in DaveCad ;-)
+MAYER MAKES Worse than that - the drawing tools are time-limited. Regular maintenance payments... now even in DaveCad.
im just waiting for when i go to use my DaveCAD and i demands my username, password and email to start spamming me with deals and offers!
marketing BS, hopefully never in DaveCAD
Most important thing for me is a big table you're not afraid to burn with your iron or stain with chemicals, and a proper way to hold your work. It doesn't matter if you only have a cheap ass multi-meter, no oscilloscope, a 9v battery with stripped wires as power supply, and a non-regulated iron, a proper space is one of the most important things.
that was awesome.. but now i see it was 2011. maybe an update is in store for 2016?
For 2016 Australia, multiply the prices by 1.5
+High Hopes this type of stuff does not get updated very often. seriously, last major update was the transition from analogue oscilloscopes and waveform generators to digital ones. everything else lasts for DECADES. and now that we's gone digital, those tools would also last you many years. also, don't be afraid to buy all the stuff, you can easily sell it. also, if you don't want to sped too much money, buy second hand!
good points. i bought most the stuff and joined a local maker lab that has the rest :)
What else could he add? Electronics at home has pretty much been the same since the 70s
+MrMaestro14231 microcontrollers and single board computers are pretty big now, with no sign of slowing down. 3D printing as well.
I'm becoming something of an expert at "reading between the lines" of Ebay listings, to get a good deal. Some tips.... If there are several used instruments available for a particular listing, they're probably from a lab that was upgrading, so they're probably good. If a device is listed as "parts..." and there's some indication the seller doesn't have the slightest idea what the thing is, it's probably good. I acquired a very nice Fluke 45, (cheaply) that way. AVOID scopes & spectrum analyzers, when it says, "powers up," if there's something "screwy" with the trace. Sometimes the seller will say that turning the knobs cause no meter indication, when you know that's normal....probably a good catch. And don't underestimate "gut" feeling.
Another AVOID scenario is when the seller says ‘untested’ when you can see he’s selling other gear and should know enough to easily test it. 😂
Solder suckers changed my life ... I feel like such a loser for admitting that...
Icanhasautomaticcheeseburger solder suckers improved life for many, the real losers are those who don't fess up to that. I fess up to that.
Icanhasautomaticcheeseburger Solder pumps / suckers are great to remove the bulk of the solder, but I'm also like to use desolder braid too.
The recoil though...
I have a cheap soldapult and i feel unworthy..
Good advice for a decent lab. But do not forget a PC near your workbench and a good EDA Software. Very essential to etch your PCBs and to search for mistakes in your design, to download, read and store datasheets. Not to mention searching the web for help or to generate gerber data for ordering PCBs at service providers.
Test gear's got a lot cheaper than it cost in 1984 :-).
What? Test gear is much more expensive now than ever before. Agilent has a few scopes that start at $400,000 with 66GHz of bandwidth on a single channel.
Jordan Whitley 66 GHz on any channel, is always expensive :-) Such a possibility was probably classified as top secret, in the 1980s. In the 1980s, the cheapest 40MHz dual channel scope (Kikisui for example) with a delay timebase, was running at around £800 (sterling) of 1980s money. In 1982, I paid £350 +VAT (John's Radio, Birmingham), for a second hand Tektronix 647A, 50 MHZ dual channel with delay timebase, and an 18KV EHT, so that you could clearly see the trace, when looking at a 1ms pulse. A Gould Beta, bench digital multimeter, cost £150 + VAT. Thus, I maintain that test gear has never been less expensive.
If you're talking about buying an 80's scope or analyzer, in that sense, yes they are much cheaper than before. If you want to stay up to speed though, it really hasnt changed all that much. The early 80's was a bit before my engineering time, so out of seniority, I will agree, ha. Have a good one!
Jordan Whitley We can agree that if 66 GHz is your baseline, we are talking about entirely different measures of base comparison :-)
Charles Smyth haha, thats for sure. It's actually 63GHz, I just looked it up again, it is the fastest scope on the market right now. Here is a link, base model starts @ $434,000 USD. (I can't beleive they are changing their name from Agilent to KeySight Technologies, Agilent is well established in the test engineering market, Agilent will now be reserved for their medical equipment)
www.home.agilent.com/en/pd-2108916-pn-DSOX96204Q/infiniium-high-performance-oscilloscope-63-ghz?nid=-33202.1010840&cc=US&lc=eng
We have a Agilent DSO9254 at work, and I absolutely love it, it's kind of sketchy working with $50,000 test equipment, I don't want to be the guy who throws an earth ground on one of the probes haha. I did buy a Rigol DS2202A scope for my home bench, and for the price, just over $1,700, I was blown away by the performance of such a cheap, new scope. There are definitely a few companies like Rigol and Salae Logic that have new, cheaper test equipment. We'll see how long it lasts, but from what I have seen so far, I have been very impressed by those two companies.
Make sure that those Digital Multi Meters have fused inputs and if you are testing at mains voltage, fully insulated fused test leads. I will not use anything less than CAT III although most equipment I have is CAT IV. Fluke do quite a use full document entitled “ABCs of multi meter safety” which is well worth looking at.
All my life I've been doing it wrong with cheap-arse soldering irons
It's all the same if you're still getting the job done, but yeah, soldering stations way better than soldering irons if you wanna work with ease. You don't even have to buy something expensive either.
Make sure you're using flux too, flux is pure magic if you haven't been using it, don't just use it for SMD stuff. Get it in a little drip bottle too so you can use it on wires and stuff as well.
Maestro EEVblog, you were amazing then. Best regards and wish you all the best :).
DaveCAD. LOL!!
I would add a small desktop brush, and a way to clean up after cutting so many component leads on the bench. A vacuum with a small hose is also a good way to clean up. It may seem to obvious, but a nice machinist's tool box is a handy addition to keep things organized.
You forgot to mention the gun needed to rob a bank in order to pay for all of these.
If you're not willing to invest in yourself, no one else will either
+Foxy rollins joking, but you don't need all this equipment to start a lab. You can also build a lot of these tools for cheaper - I have a budget lab psu that i.posted on my channel
You surely don't. A power supply, a couple of breadboards, a good soldering station, a multimeter and a pair of snips is really all you need to start. The rest can be bought at any later time.
This stuff lasts for years. Take your time, acquire over the years. I started on SMD soldering in 1983, it wasnt until 2000 that I got a decent stereo microscope (for free, by luck). When you get the good stuff, keep hold of it!
Would be great to get an updated version of this video