For anyone else watching, here's what's missing from the video: 1) At 3:50 when connecting the 'Compression Ball-o-fix' to the 'Mains valve', the video has the Ball-o-fix fitted in the wrong direction. There is an arrow on it indicating water flow. The system should be set up as follows: Mains pipe -> Ball-o-fix -> Mains Valve (with vertical isolator tap) -> Black push-fit -> normal sink tap connector 2) I suggest using PTFE tape at: * 3:50 when connecting the 'Compression Ball-o-fix' to the 'Mains valve' * 4:11 between the black push-fit fitting and the mains valve * 4:50 on the other end of the ball-o-fix thread 3) at 13:00 when installing the membrane, I suggest first turning off the isolator tap, then running the RO faucet to depressurise and get the water out of the system. Then you can take it apart without getting water everywhere. NB, there will still be some residual water in the membrane housing. 4) At 16:10 on the 2nd flush, you shouldn't get any water come out of the faucet, as the water should all be going straight out to the drain. Perhaps if you leave it long enough it does? 5) At 16:20 After the 2nd flush is complete, if you try and run the RO faucet, your flow will probably be down to a dribble at best. You have to wait for the tank to fill before you can expect good water flow. 6) Regular maintenance: Once a week you should close the tank valve, open the L1 valve, and let it run for 2 minutes to clear out debris from the membrane.
Thank you for your constructive comment! We unfortunately didn't have access to running water during filming, so had to make do the best we could. We are looking to produce an improved reverse osmosis video in the near future :-).
@@lukesolomons8285 Hi Luke, all of our domestic systems come with a tank. If you have purchased an aquarium model or a compact model, then these are designed to be used to mixed water or creating pure water for specific applications. The reason why we include a tank with the domestic units is so the water can be stored and produced on demand when you require it for drinking, as the process is a slow one to create RO water. If you are using your RO for drinking water, I'd recommend picking up a tank from our website: www.finerfilters.co.uk/reverse-osmosis/spares-and-accessories/tanks.html Apologies for the late reply - I am not notified when someone comments underneath another comment. Thanks! Shaun
Thanks for this, especially your point RE second flush not producing water from the tap - here I am sitting by the sink, scratching my head and reading comments trying to work out exactly that!
Does the pressure guage only show correct pressure when the tank is full? Mines showing 10 psi as the tank is filling ? water pressure in my house seems good , never had any issues with anything else 🤔
Found the video to be helpful, as you say further down the comments, it needs updating and correcting, and adding of important info thats not in the installation booklet like tank bladder pressure. and note it is not the same as system water mains supply pressure, as I bet some one will try to put 80 psi into that bottom valve! well presented video, clear on the basic fitting and connections. where can we get spare blue collet's? as they are bound to disapear down behind the kitchen cupboard units lol.
Hi Brian, Thank you for your comment! Yes, the video is a little dated now I understand. I am glad you found it helpful though and thanks for your feedback. If you would like to use our contact form on our website to send an email over then we can arrange for some blue collets to be sent out to you. Regards, Shaun
Hi shaun, im thinking about purchasing 6 stage domestic RO system. I read that i’ll have to also buy an pump to increase my water pressure, could you please upload a video on how to install RO system with the pump ?
Hi Mike, Thank you for your comment and your consideration of purchasing one of our Domestic RO Systems. The installation of the unit with the booster pump is exactly the same. The only difference is that there would have to be a 3-pin plug socket located nearby the install to plug the pump into. This is the only difference. Hope this helps :-)! Thanks, Shaun
Presume it would be ok to just fit the ball o fix straight onto the flex of the cold tap and the isolator body onto the cold water supply (the way the cold tap flex is currently - directly) and not use the black fitting at all? It would just save cutting copper pipe to fit the isolator valve....?
Hi Colin, thanks for your message. Whatever is the easiest for you. By reading what your saying, this way of setting the unit up shouldn't be a problem. As long as you have a line from your mains to your RO inlet with no leaks, etc... should be fine. As always, give us a call on 01704 807600 if you would like to discuss anything further. Many thanks, Shaun
Hi Johan, thanks for your comment. We used a 1/2" drill bit here for the tap, which is shown at the start of the video when showing what tools are needed. However, you can use anything between 10-15mm. Thanks, Shaun :-)
Hi, thank you for your question! We advise you to flush the system around once per month for 2-3 minutes by opening the flush valve on the drain line, but especially when changing the filters. When you change your filters, always be sure to flush your pre and post-filters WITHOUT the membrane installed. If you flush your fresh pre-filters and the membrane is still installed, then loose media which is initially washed off the pre-filters can travel into the membrane housing and block up your membrane - which will cause problems. You should flush the system through first without the membrane, then do the same after installing the membrane, and then opening the flush valve for 5 minutes. Be sure to close the flush valve after every flush to create the backlog of pressure required for the RO filtration process to take place! Many thanks, Shaun :-)
@@finerfilters sorry to bother, one more question. Tank was full for the first time so next step was to open tap and let water pour out but how do I know that tank is empty? ( except weight) as water keep coming out of tap? Thank you
@@DaliborKasicky Hi, the tank has a 6.5-litre capacity, so you can either measure this with a jug or other measuring means. You should see a decrease in pressure when the tank is empty also when the water is flowing. Another way to check would be to simply lift the tank up before you empty it and when you think it may be empty. If it is considerably lighter than when you started to empty it then it means the water has gone. Many thanks, Shaun
Hi Zura, thank you for your question! Yes, this is normal. You will find that the unit takes around 30 minutes to an hour (especially after the first few flushes) to produce a steady flow of water. This is because the process to produce RO water is unfortunately a slow one with a lower GPD membrane. This is why we include a storage tank with all of our units which will automatically fill up when water is dispensed from the unit, ensuring it is topped up at all times so that you have water on demand. You'll hopefully have found that you should be getting a constant stream of water when you turn on the tap now due to the tank having time to fill overnight. Kind regards, Shaun
Hi. How long do we wait for the first flush & subsequently the second flush? IOW, how do we know the tank is full to flush it please? Thank you in advance.
Hi Patrick, thanks for your question. The drain line shouldn't be running 24/7. However, the first few fills of the tank from the RO unit can take longer than usual and the system takes quite a while to create the water. The drain will be operating when the unit is creating water. For any more help, please drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk :-)
Hi Simon, providing that the pressure from the outside tap is sufficient and that the unit is not left out in conditions in which the unit could be damaged (freezing weather, etc...) then yes it technically could be hooked up to an outside tap. Our aquatic customers usually hook their aquarium RO systems to their garden taps, and some opt for a booster pump to increase pressure and output.
@@simonsmith7594 Great, glad to hear! You can always email us at enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk if you have any further questions or queries. Kind regards, Shaun
Hi SuperGamer Bro, thank you for your question. You can view our video here: th-cam.com/video/hzFM5LWjxl8/w-d-xo.html on how to remove tubing/stoppers from a filter or fitting. Hope this helps :-). Shaun
@@OmniversalInsect Hi, to remove the stoppers from the fittings, you must do the following steps. You should see a circular plastic collet surrounding the stoppers that moves up and down as you try to pull on the stopper. For the collet to release the stoppers, it must be pushed flat against the fitting. You should be able to do this with the end of your finger or finger nail and then you want to pull on the stopper simultaneously. Pair this text together with the video i copied in earlier and hopefully should find the solution :-). Shaun
@@OmniversalInsect Hi SuperGamer, you can give us a call on 01704 807600 and one of our sales team can talk you through the process step by step. Many thanks, Shaun
Why is the pressure gauge showing 100+ psi when I close the flush valve(L1). No water is going into the tank and I have checked the pressure in the tank. It was working fine until I added the membrane and it’s like the membrane is just stopping it. I have the model with the pump.
What is wrong with not flushing the system initially? Will all the unwanted particles be in the membrane and tank? How do I undo this? Can I empty the tank somehow? And can I flush the membrane out?
There are loose "carbon fines" which will be expelled by the water pushing through the carbon filters. This will block the membrane. It may be possible to backwash it or flush it out but chances are you will need a new membrane!
Hi Doa, thank you for your question. Please can you clarify what you mean by the tap for the dirty water? Do you mean the drain line which runs out of the back of the system? If so, the valve next to this, the L1 valve, should be closed at all times - except when flushing the system. This valve needs to be closed for the tank to fill with the pure water as when it is open, the water bypasses the flow restrictor which is needed for the water to be forced through the membrane and to be filtered. Let me know if I can help with anything else!
Hi GMX, The tank is pretty neccessary if you wish to have water to drink on demand every time you turn the tap on. The reverse osmosis process takes a while to actually filter the water, so if you were to turn the tap on without the tank installed, and just call for water from the unit without any stored then the water would literally trickle out from the tap. Thanks, Shaun
Hi Bob, thank you for your message. This could be down to a couple of things - 1. Make sure your L1 (flush valve) is closed. 2. Make sure your tank valve is open. 3. Test your tank pressure - there should be around 6-8psi of pressure in there. 4. Make sure you have sufficient water pressure for the unit to operate (minimum 40psi, optimum 80psi). If you are still getting no water through, please give us a ring on 01704 807600 :-).
HI Jan, when flushing the system through, the tank valve should be closed and the faucet open. Don't forget to open the L1 valve also, which is situated on the waste water line, to allow the water to saturate the membrane. Be sure to close the L1 valve before opening your tank valve to allow pressure build up and for the filtration process to begin. Thanks! Shaun
Hi, I have just installed this system with a pump unit at a new house address, there seems to be adequate water pressure without actually powering the pump unit up. Will it be okay to use without plugging the pump in to the mains or will any features be missing due to not having it powered up or will it operate as normal? Thanks in advance
During the first water flush water leaks from the connection of the re-mineraliser cartridge and never get to the tap. My tank valve is off and the flush valve is open. What can I do? I have the RO-A1M
Hi Stefano, thank you for your question. If the unit is leaking from the remineralising filter, it sounds like there may be a lack of PTFE tape on one of the fittings. You should have received a roll of PTFE tape with the RO unit, and you can find a video on our channel which shows how to apply the PTFE. Any other questions, don't hesitate to give us a call on 01704 807600 to speak to one of our technicians who will happily assist you :-). Many thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters hi there, the leaks comes from a too short tube between post carbon inline cartridge and the re-mineraliser cartridge. Changing that one an putting one longer tube fixed everything. I have une more question: to have the most pure water, the osmotic water without minerals, do I have to take the one that comes out from the post carbon inline cartridge and goes to the tank?
@@stefanoaguirre1789 Hi Stefano, i'm glad you found the solution to your problem. To get the purest RO water possible (less than 10ppm), you have to make sure you have optimal pressure (80PSI), optimal water temperature (24oC) and you will need a final de-ionising stage to remove the last TDS of contaminants that would still remain. De ionising resin allows you to get completely pure water, but it is not recommended to drink this for a prolonged period of time. If you were to take the water from your own unit, you'd just need to disconnect the remineralising filter. The post carbon filter will not add any more TDS after your membrane, so you can leave this on to improve taste of the water. Hope this helps. Thanks, Shaun
Hi Marmite. Thank you for leaving a comment! We're glad the video helped you in some way. The unit can be left free standing or mounted to the wall, entirely up to the customer's preference. It will not affect the performance of the unit. Shaun
Hi, I bought replacement filters however I am struggling to replace the mineral/resin filter and the post carbon filter. Are there any instructions in how to replace these?
Hi Gokangs. Thanks for your message and apologies about the lateness of the reply. The replacement mineral and post carbon filter are both threaded fittings. This means you need to remove the fittings from the existing, exhausted filters and screw them into the new replacement filter. Hope this helps :-)
HI there is now another problem... I fixed everything and I did the 1st flush without the membrane and everything works and water is coming from the tap BUT after putting the membran in the housing there is no water coming from the tap ?
Hi Gary. It depends on your use. If you're using it for drinking water, it would be a good idea to attach a tank so that there will always be water available to drink and you're not having to wait for the system to produce the water when you call for it. If it is for another use such as aquatics or window cleaning, you would just use the system as and when you needed to and run the water into your tank or container. We have reverse osmosis storage tanks available on our site, prices starting from £16.99 - www.finerfilters.co.uk/domestic-reverse-osmosis/spares.html . If you are thinking about purchasing a tank, please give us a call on 01704 807600 so we can be sure you are receiving the correct fittings also :-). Thanks, Shaun
Hi. Does anyone here know why the tank is not filling please? I've left it overnight & it filled ok, nothing great. Then left again for 4 hours, I get 4-5 minutes of water running with low pressure. The pressure with tank empty is around 10 psi but when left for tank to fill up, doesn't change. However, I had previously owned an RO system & never had any problems with pressure or tank filling up. PSm I've tried phoning with bicycle pump but made no difference to the pressure guage.
Hello sir, if you are continuing to experience issues producing water then I advise you contact our customer service team - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk. They will be able to troubleshoot and assist you to get your system up and running correctly. Thanks, Shaun
Hi, I bought 5 stages osmosis filter and it is working fine, is it possible to add the mineral filter after having bought and setup the 5 stages one? thank you
It is indeed possible to add the mineral filter later, as an upgrade. You just need 2 extra fittings (push-fit, 1/8, you can find them on their website for around 2 quid a piece).
@@amigaamigo5307 Hi Amigo, On the tank, you will see a threaded opening at the top of the tank where you screw the tank connector into and attach the 1/4" tubing to. The fitting at the bottom of the tank which is covered by a white stopper is actually the tank valve. This works like a bike tyre valve as you use this to re inflate the bladder within the tank if needed. You can also check the pressure of the bladder through this valve and it should be sitting around 8-10PSI. If you require any more info, dont hesitate to drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk. Thanks, Shaun
@@amigaamigo5307 hi amigo, please send us a photo of the tank and a message mentioning your query to our enquiries email address if you require further help with this issue. Many thanks, Shaun
Hi Morne, thank you for your question. This is totally normal for the reverse osmosis process, as the unit must waste water to create pure water. With our units, the ratio of waste water to pure water is usally around 3-4:1, providing parameters such as water pressure and water temperature are optimal. The unit has to seperate the permeate (pure water) and the waste water into seperate channels within the membrane to make sure that the product water is as pure as possible. Hope this helps :-). Thanks, Shaun
Hi Duke, the drill bit used in the installation part of the video was indeed slightly larger than the 1/2" bit we displayed in the beginning. This was because the particular drill bit we had at the start was a wooden drill bit and not suitable for metal. However, as long as the base plate and bottom plate secure over the drilled hole then the tap will stay in place. Hope this helps! Thanks, Shaun
Hi Tazz. Yes, this set up video is the same for the 6 stage pumped unit. The only difference is that the pumped unit requires a power socket nearby so it can be plugged in. Hope this helps :-). Thanks, Shaun.
@@tazzandhertribe Hi Tazz. Ahh it's not too bad once you get into it :-)!! You can always give us a call on 01704 807600 if you require any help along the way. The units also come with a detailed instructions booklet with everything you need to know about the unit. Thanks, Shaun.
Hi. I fully installed the system, with no leaks (after a few minor floods) - touch wood! But on the 2nd flush I couldn't get a steady flow of water through the tap, just a spurt for a few seconds then nothing, then same again after I turned tap on after few seconds of waiting. I have it set up to fill the tank which it seems to do so slowly and I can get more out of the tap before it drains. I only thought then to check the water pressure on the unit and it's reading 40 psi.....think you guys say 45 is the minimum right? Would this be the reason for the failed 2nd flush? or should I check any of the filters are clogged? if this is the likely reason is it easy enough to fit the pump after the rest or would it be like starting again (not sure the wife could handle the cursing..) Thanks for the support - Colin
Hi Colin, thank you for your purchase and your question. So, with the water spurting out of the tap initially after the second flush, this is normal as i imagine that this was immediately after getting the unit hooked up. 40PSI is the minimum required for the unit to operate, however optimal pressure for the stated membrane output (50 gallons/189 litres per day) is acheived with an optimal pressure of 80PSI - double the minimum pressure required. With a pressure of 40PSI, the unit will still create RO water, just at a slow pace compared to if you were to have the recommended optimal pressure. In relation to checking if your filter elements are clogged - when you flushed the carbon and sediment filters out for the first time, you hopefully should have done this without the membrane installed initially, as the loose carbon fines from the carbon filters could have travelled up into the membrane housing and prematurely blocked your membrane, resulting in slower flow and fouling. If this is the case, you may need to re-order a new membrane. Hopefully if this isn't the case, and when you flushed make sure you had opened the L1 valve to flush the unit through and get that membrane element saturated with water. Be sure to have the L1 valve CLOSED when you want to produce any pure water at all. The L1 valve bypasses the flow restrictor which creates the backlog of pressure within the membrane housing allowing the water to be forced through the membrane under pressure, and should only be opened to clean the membrane or when you have replaced the filters in the unit. The RO process isn't a quick one as it is, especially with the lowest stated pressure for operation. As i mentioned previously though, if since writing this post you have gotten a full tank's worth of water and water can be drawn when it's called for then it's likely you have everything set up correctly and may just have to adjust to the time the unit produces water. The tank stores around 6/7 litres, and will automatically start refilling once the tank drops below a certain level. One way to check is to empty your tank and check on it every now and again to see how long it takes to do a full fill. Finally, there is the option to add a booster pump post installation, no problem. If you have any more questions regarding this or may be interested in doing so, dont hesitate to call us on 01704 807600 or drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk :-). Many thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters Hi Shaun, this is all really helpful information thanks for taking the time for such detailed replies! So 24 hrs plus now what I can say is I am definitely getting RO water as the DTS goes from 150ish for the live tap to 15/20 for the water from the filter fosset. However I did not do the first flush correctly as you mention in your response. I had the L1 valve closed rather than open. I realised this when I went to install the membrane as the housing was full of water which didn't seem right and you didn't warn about it in the video. I thought I might have dodged the bullet as the membrane wasn't in at the time but maybe installing after not full cleaning and drying out the housing could have fouled/damaged the membrane in some way? I am getting the tank filled with RO water for sure but I'm not sure the tank is fully filling (as when I empty it out it for sure is not 3gallons coming out before it runs dry - even after letting it fill for 8hrs plus. As I mentioned when I do the 2nd flush steps (tank off and L1 valve open) I can't seem to get water coming through steadily at all, just a cup full and then it runs dry, seems the rest is actively going down the waster pipe.......I'm fine to buy another membrane if you think that might the problem (or a pump for that matter) is there any steps I can take to try and clean or unclog the membrane so I could eliminate that before spending good money on it? I noticed that PSI drops to 37/38 every now and then on the unit.....it's really weird as the pressure from the mains tap seems very high (not sure how I could test the actuals) so much so that we rarely turn that tap on full blast as it splashes water everywhere in the kitchen. Doing the initial flush wrong couldn't have caused an air lock or something could it? reason I ask is that sometimes I hear a groan when running RO water from the tap (from the stored RO water in the tank) kind of groan you would associate with a central heating system that needs to be bled......let me know thoughts from more information above and then I'll order the membrane or pump depending on your advice. Thanks again for all the support and service - Colin
@@colinanderson7407 Hi Colin, no problem at all! Glad it was helpful. Ok great, i've taken all that on board. What would be best would be for you to give me a call on 01704 807600 as it will be so much easier to talk through with you over the phone :-). In the office from 9-5 today and tomorrow so give me a call when you've got a free minute. Many thanks, Shaun
I just changed all the filters and checked water and its showing acidic water.. Hp is ment to be green this means im drinking water with no minerals this could be dangerous... I brought 6st filter so i can have minerals in water. Why is this happening
Hi Mr Barak. This is strange... please can you check to see if the yellow filter is a resin filter or a remineralising filter? Either way, if you'd like to message enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk, we can get a replacement mineral filter sent out to you to correct the issue. Thanks
Bonjour, Veuillez envoyer un e-mail à enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk et demander les instructions. Nous pouvons vous envoyer la copie numérique dans laquelle vous pouvez utiliser google translate pour traduire au fur et à mesure? Espérons que cela aide. Merci beaucoup, Shaun
Hi Alswords. We are currently moving site with our warehouse and office so there will be more videos in the future, just not for a few months. What seems to be the problem with the unit? If you need to speak to someone about this, feel free to call 01704 807600. Thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters Hi It was 'fitted' by a plumber 9 months ago, then it started leaking and I realised i needed to change filter. Then i find it wasn't fitted correctly the blue cylinder wasn't fitted at all. I put it in correctly i think but there is no water from the tap now:( just dribbles.
Hi @@LOGOASSASSIN, I understand. The blue cylindrical filter which you installed is the Reverse Osmosis Membrane, which is going to be doing the majority of the filtration. This requires a high pressure to operate under as the water must be pushed through tiny holes in the semi-permeable membrane. It could be that you don't have sufficient water pressure for the unit, or that your membrane could be clogged. As mentioned, please give us a call if you have any more questions. Thanks, Shaun
Hi @@LOGOASSASSIN. Not at all! We do offer booster pumps & booster pump kits for the units. We also do pumped and unpumped units. The 50GPD booster pump kit is £63.99, but the difference in price between a pumped and unpumped unit is around £18. If you'd like to know anymore regarding the pumps and pressure, please call us on 01704 807600 :-). Thanks, Shaun.
1.) what should be the average Ph of the water produced from this as mine is reading 8.5 this seems too high . 2) Do you have to flush before use , how do you do this ? 3) can the remineralise tube be removed ?
Hi Hezekiyah, thank you for your question. 1. Referencing question number 3, I presume you have the 6 stage unit with the remineraliser filter? Pure RO water has a slightly acidic PH and can read between 6-7PH. With the remineraliser filter, it adds essential minerals back into the water such as calcium and magnesium to boost the overall TDS and PH, turning it from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The reading of 8.5PH is totally normal and is a good indication that the remineraliser filter is working. 2. It is recommended to flush the system on your first water flush or filter replacement, or even after not using the system for a week or so. The best way to do this for the FIRST flush when you've replaced the filters is to remove the membrane or make sure it hasn't been installed. This is because when you flush the pre-filters for the first time, loose carbon fines exit the filters (which is completely normal) and will prematurely block the membrane, rendering it useless and would require you to purchase another one. Once the water has run clear, you will be good to add the membrane back in and re-do the process. If you are just looking to flush the system after not using it for a while then you can open the L1 valve (see 8:53 in the video) and this will let water bypass the flow restrictor - allowing the water to skim over the membrane with no restricton and essentially clean it. Make sure you close the L1 valve after 5-10 minutes of flushing as your system will not produce RO water when this valve is open. You can find more flushing information on page 11-12 in our installation guide. 3. Yes, the remineraliser filter can be removed if you wish. Just note the PH and TDS will drop, and the taste will change if you decide to do this. Thanks, Shaun.
Finerfilters LTD thank you so much for replying , I’m so confused of the flush process . I had a plumber install it . So it it’s already set up and I’ve been using it . Could I possibly do a video call and you can talk me though the steps ?
@@hezekiyahisrael5804 Hi Hezekiyah, no problem! I see, is the system operating as expected? If so it would seem the plumber has installed it correctly. We unfortunately dont have a video calling service set up as of yet, however feel free to call 01704 807600 to speak to a member of our team who will happily help you with any enquiries you may have :-). Thanks
Hi Kimball, Which part do you mean by the 4-way valve? Do you mean the auto shutoff valve situated at the back of the unit? Our systems come already pre-configured and you shouldn't need to touch the auto shut off valve. If you are assembling another unit, or building your own RO, there are plenty of videos on youtube highlighting the configuration of the ASOV. This is purely a video for installation. We will hopefully have another video highlighting other parts of the unit coming soon. Hope this helps :-). Many thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters I recently needed to change filters on my five stage system, and needed to know if I had place all the wires back in the right order with the 4 way valve
@@kimballcrocferd9988 Hi Kimball, understood. If you'd like to send us an email enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk and address the email to myself - Shaun, then i have a photo of the configuration of the auto shut off valve I can send you. For future reference, you shouldn't have to remove the tubes from the ASOV to replace the filters. Many thanks, Shaun
Hi Coin Op. Thanks for your comment. Yes, Reverse Osmosis is one of, if not the most effective water filtration method there is. Removing up to 98% of contaminants in water, fluoride had a rejection rate of around 94-96%. Please don't hesitate to give us a call on 01704 807600 if you would like to discuss this further, or leave us a contact form on our "contact us" section on our website. Thanks, Shaun.
he either tells it wrong by saying sediment filter first and pointing to the middle or assembles it wrong by putting the blue one in the middle . The instruction book is not very clear about this either not helped by two of the filters having almost the same name labels on the actual unit would be most helpful . Ok so from the manual the sediment should be on the right not in the center as he says in this video . I can only guess the blue to the center is correct .
For anyone else watching, here's what's missing from the video:
1) At 3:50 when connecting the 'Compression Ball-o-fix' to the 'Mains valve', the video has the Ball-o-fix fitted in the wrong direction. There is an arrow on it indicating water flow. The system should be set up as follows:
Mains pipe -> Ball-o-fix -> Mains Valve (with vertical isolator tap) -> Black push-fit -> normal sink tap connector
2) I suggest using PTFE tape at:
* 3:50 when connecting the 'Compression Ball-o-fix' to the 'Mains valve'
* 4:11 between the black push-fit fitting and the mains valve
* 4:50 on the other end of the ball-o-fix thread
3) at 13:00 when installing the membrane, I suggest first turning off the isolator tap, then running the RO faucet to depressurise and get the water out of the system. Then you can take it apart without getting water everywhere. NB, there will still be some residual water in the membrane housing.
4) At 16:10 on the 2nd flush, you shouldn't get any water come out of the faucet, as the water should all be going straight out to the drain. Perhaps if you leave it long enough it does?
5) At 16:20 After the 2nd flush is complete, if you try and run the RO faucet, your flow will probably be down to a dribble at best. You have to wait for the tank to fill before you can expect good water flow.
6) Regular maintenance: Once a week you should close the tank valve, open the L1 valve, and let it run for 2 minutes to clear out debris from the membrane.
Thank you for your constructive comment! We unfortunately didn't have access to running water during filming, so had to make do the best we could. We are looking to produce an improved reverse osmosis video in the near future :-).
If you have the lower model without the tank how can I increase the flow of water that comes out of the faucet? It's just dribbling out at the moment
@@lukesolomons8285 Hi Luke, all of our domestic systems come with a tank. If you have purchased an aquarium model or a compact model, then these are designed to be used to mixed water or creating pure water for specific applications. The reason why we include a tank with the domestic units is so the water can be stored and produced on demand when you require it for drinking, as the process is a slow one to create RO water. If you are using your RO for drinking water, I'd recommend picking up a tank from our website: www.finerfilters.co.uk/reverse-osmosis/spares-and-accessories/tanks.html
Apologies for the late reply - I am not notified when someone comments underneath another comment. Thanks! Shaun
Thanks for this, especially your point RE second flush not producing water from the tap - here I am sitting by the sink, scratching my head and reading comments trying to work out exactly that!
Yes , I called them & they also said 2nd flush is not necessary.
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO, SIMPLE TO FOLLOW. BRILLIANT
Thank you Sam! We really appreciate your kind feedback :-).
Shaun
Does the pressure guage only show correct pressure when the tank is full? Mines showing 10 psi as the tank is filling ? water pressure in my house seems good , never had any issues with anything else 🤔
Have you got a video of the whole assembly as I’ve come to a job and it’s all apart.
Thank you for uploading the video.
Hi Wajahad, thank you for your comment! We hope it helped you with the set up of your Reverse Osmosis System.
What size is the hole cutter ? The one you showed is for wood at 1/2 inch which is too small and then you show a metal one which is not detailed
thanks easy to follow, but where is the flow restrictor valve
Found the video to be helpful, as you say further down the comments, it needs updating and correcting, and adding of important info thats not in the installation booklet like tank bladder pressure. and note it is not the same as system water mains supply pressure, as I bet some one will try to put 80 psi into that bottom valve!
well presented video, clear on the basic fitting and connections.
where can we get spare blue collet's? as they are bound to disapear down behind the kitchen cupboard units lol.
Hi Brian,
Thank you for your comment! Yes, the video is a little dated now I understand. I am glad you found it helpful though and thanks for your feedback.
If you would like to use our contact form on our website to send an email over then we can arrange for some blue collets to be sent out to you.
Regards, Shaun
Hi shaun, im thinking about purchasing 6 stage domestic RO system. I read that i’ll have to also buy an pump to increase my water pressure, could you please upload a video on how to install RO system with the pump ?
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your comment and your consideration of purchasing one of our Domestic RO Systems.
The installation of the unit with the booster pump is exactly the same. The only difference is that there would have to be a 3-pin plug socket located nearby the install to plug the pump into. This is the only difference. Hope this helps :-)!
Thanks,
Shaun
Presume it would be ok to just fit the ball o fix straight onto the flex of the cold tap and the isolator body onto the cold water supply (the way the cold tap flex is currently - directly) and not use the black fitting at all? It would just save cutting copper pipe to fit the isolator valve....?
Hi Colin, thanks for your message.
Whatever is the easiest for you. By reading what your saying, this way of setting the unit up shouldn't be a problem. As long as you have a line from your mains to your RO inlet with no leaks, etc... should be fine.
As always, give us a call on 01704 807600 if you would like to discuss anything further.
Many thanks,
Shaun
What is the drill you use for the hole in the stainless steel sink it is not in the list
Hi Johan, thanks for your comment.
We used a 1/2" drill bit here for the tap, which is shown at the start of the video when showing what tools are needed. However, you can use anything between 10-15mm. Thanks, Shaun :-)
Question please. Are you flush the system every time you change filters? Thanks
Hi, thank you for your question!
We advise you to flush the system around once per month for 2-3 minutes by opening the flush valve on the drain line, but especially when changing the filters.
When you change your filters, always be sure to flush your pre and post-filters WITHOUT the membrane installed. If you flush your fresh pre-filters and the membrane is still installed, then loose media which is initially washed off the pre-filters can travel into the membrane housing and block up your membrane - which will cause problems. You should flush the system through first without the membrane, then do the same after installing the membrane, and then opening the flush valve for 5 minutes. Be sure to close the flush valve after every flush to create the backlog of pressure required for the RO filtration process to take place!
Many thanks, Shaun :-)
@@finerfilters sorry to bother, one more question. Tank was full for the first time so next step was to open tap and let water pour out but how do I know that tank is empty? ( except weight) as water keep coming out of tap? Thank you
@@DaliborKasicky Hi, the tank has a 6.5-litre capacity, so you can either measure this with a jug or other measuring means. You should see a decrease in pressure when the tank is empty also when the water is flowing. Another way to check would be to simply lift the tank up before you empty it and when you think it may be empty. If it is considerably lighter than when you started to empty it then it means the water has gone.
Many thanks, Shaun
Howz is the taste of water, any experience? Is it taste normal after the filter and if any difference when making tea/coffee etc
excellent buy I recommend it
the flow is great before i add the membrane, soon as i add it for the 2nd flush the water only drips extremely slow 😭 is this normal?
Hi Zura, thank you for your question! Yes, this is normal. You will find that the unit takes around 30 minutes to an hour (especially after the first few flushes) to produce a steady flow of water. This is because the process to produce RO water is unfortunately a slow one with a lower GPD membrane. This is why we include a storage tank with all of our units which will automatically fill up when water is dispensed from the unit, ensuring it is topped up at all times so that you have water on demand. You'll hopefully have found that you should be getting a constant stream of water when you turn on the tap now due to the tank having time to fill overnight. Kind regards, Shaun
Hi. How long do we wait for the first flush & subsequently the second flush? IOW, how do we know the tank is full to flush it please? Thank you in advance.
does the drian off run all the time ??? mine is running all the time ??
Hi Patrick, thanks for your question. The drain line shouldn't be running 24/7. However, the first few fills of the tank from the RO unit can take longer than usual and the system takes quite a while to create the water. The drain will be operating when the unit is creating water.
For any more help, please drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk :-)
Can this be hooked upto an outside tap
Hi Simon, providing that the pressure from the outside tap is sufficient and that the unit is not left out in conditions in which the unit could be damaged (freezing weather, etc...) then yes it technically could be hooked up to an outside tap. Our aquatic customers usually hook their aquarium RO systems to their garden taps, and some opt for a booster pump to increase pressure and output.
@@finerfilters all set up I have great pressure and seem to have a fast drip
@@simonsmith7594 Great, glad to hear! You can always email us at enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk if you have any further questions or queries. Kind regards, Shaun
Hello. How do I remove the stoppers that are coloured red blue and black? Thank you
Hi SuperGamer Bro, thank you for your question. You can view our video here: th-cam.com/video/hzFM5LWjxl8/w-d-xo.html on how to remove tubing/stoppers from a filter or fitting. Hope this helps :-).
Shaun
@@finerfilters sorry it did not help me
@@OmniversalInsect Hi, to remove the stoppers from the fittings, you must do the following steps. You should see a circular plastic collet surrounding the stoppers that moves up and down as you try to pull on the stopper. For the collet to release the stoppers, it must be pushed flat against the fitting. You should be able to do this with the end of your finger or finger nail and then you want to pull on the stopper simultaneously. Pair this text together with the video i copied in earlier and hopefully should find the solution :-).
Shaun
@@finerfilters Sorry that did not help me either. I'm talking about the 50gpd filter if that helps.
@@OmniversalInsect Hi SuperGamer, you can give us a call on 01704 807600 and one of our sales team can talk you through the process step by step.
Many thanks,
Shaun
Why is the pressure gauge showing 100+ psi when I close the flush valve(L1). No water is going into the tank and I have checked the pressure in the tank. It was working fine until I added the membrane and it’s like the membrane is just stopping it. I have the model with the pump.
What is wrong with not flushing the system initially? Will all the unwanted particles be in the membrane and tank? How do I undo this? Can I empty the tank somehow? And can I flush the membrane out?
There are loose "carbon fines" which will be expelled by the water pushing through the carbon filters. This will block the membrane. It may be possible to backwash it or flush it out but chances are you will need a new membrane!
Hi i installed my filter but schould i leave the tap on 4 the dirty water flow all the time or turn it off to get a full tank??
Hi Doa, thank you for your question. Please can you clarify what you mean by the tap for the dirty water? Do you mean the drain line which runs out of the back of the system? If so, the valve next to this, the L1 valve, should be closed at all times - except when flushing the system. This valve needs to be closed for the tank to fill with the pure water as when it is open, the water bypasses the flow restrictor which is needed for the water to be forced through the membrane and to be filtered. Let me know if I can help with anything else!
can i wuse this system without the tank? whats will happen if i dont use the tank?
Hi GMX,
The tank is pretty neccessary if you wish to have water to drink on demand every time you turn the tap on. The reverse osmosis process takes a while to actually filter the water, so if you were to turn the tap on without the tank installed, and just call for water from the unit without any stored then the water would literally trickle out from the tap.
Thanks,
Shaun
hello Shaun my storage tank doesn't seem to be filling up what have i done wrong ?
Hi Bob, thank you for your message. This could be down to a couple of things - 1. Make sure your L1 (flush valve) is closed. 2. Make sure your tank valve is open. 3. Test your tank pressure - there should be around 6-8psi of pressure in there. 4. Make sure you have sufficient water pressure for the unit to operate (minimum 40psi, optimum 80psi). If you are still getting no water through, please give us a ring on 01704 807600 :-).
Hi I am a bit confused, did you flush the system through the waist pipe with the tank valve closed or through the facet with the tank closed
HI Jan, when flushing the system through, the tank valve should be closed and the faucet open. Don't forget to open the L1 valve also, which is situated on the waste water line, to allow the water to saturate the membrane. Be sure to close the L1 valve before opening your tank valve to allow pressure build up and for the filtration process to begin.
Thanks! Shaun
@@finerfilters Thanks very much Shaun
I need help ton of he elbow-like connector between the 2nd and 3rd filter got disconnected and I couldn’t figure out how to reconnected it !!!
does unit comes prssurized or it presurized while tank is getting filled? Thank you
Hi, I have just installed this system with a pump unit at a new house address, there seems to be adequate water pressure without actually powering the pump unit up. Will it be okay to use without plugging the pump in to the mains or will any features be missing due to not having it powered up or will it operate as normal? Thanks in advance
During the first water flush water leaks from the connection of the re-mineraliser cartridge and never get to the tap. My tank valve is off and the flush valve is open. What can I do? I have the RO-A1M
Hi Stefano, thank you for your question. If the unit is leaking from the remineralising filter, it sounds like there may be a lack of PTFE tape on one of the fittings. You should have received a roll of PTFE tape with the RO unit, and you can find a video on our channel which shows how to apply the PTFE.
Any other questions, don't hesitate to give us a call on 01704 807600 to speak to one of our technicians who will happily assist you :-).
Many thanks,
Shaun
@@finerfilters hi there, the leaks comes from a too short tube between post carbon inline cartridge and the re-mineraliser cartridge. Changing that one an putting one longer tube fixed everything.
I have une more question: to have the most pure water, the osmotic water without minerals, do I have to take the one that comes out from the post carbon inline cartridge and goes to the tank?
@@stefanoaguirre1789 Hi Stefano, i'm glad you found the solution to your problem.
To get the purest RO water possible (less than 10ppm), you have to make sure you have optimal pressure (80PSI), optimal water temperature (24oC) and you will need a final de-ionising stage to remove the last TDS of contaminants that would still remain. De ionising resin allows you to get completely pure water, but it is not recommended to drink this for a prolonged period of time.
If you were to take the water from your own unit, you'd just need to disconnect the remineralising filter. The post carbon filter will not add any more TDS after your membrane, so you can leave this on to improve taste of the water. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Shaun
Why on earth did you drill a massive 25mm hole for a small 10/12 mm tsp spout ?….
He knows what he’s doing
so f1 valve must be only open for flushing?
What's going on? I'm doing 2nd flush, there's water going down the drain. I'm only at 10psi.
Hi Derek. Do you have a pumped or unpumped version? Unfortunately, 10PSI isn't enough pressure for the system to operate.
Very informative video.
Does the unit have to be screwed to the inside of the cupboard or can it be left free standing?
Hi Marmite. Thank you for leaving a comment! We're glad the video helped you in some way. The unit can be left free standing or mounted to the wall, entirely up to the customer's preference. It will not affect the performance of the unit. Shaun
Hi, I bought replacement filters however I am struggling to replace the mineral/resin filter and the post carbon filter. Are there any instructions in how to replace these?
Hi Gokangs. Thanks for your message and apologies about the lateness of the reply. The replacement mineral and post carbon filter are both threaded fittings. This means you need to remove the fittings from the existing, exhausted filters and screw them into the new replacement filter. Hope this helps :-)
HI
there is now another problem... I fixed everything and I did the 1st flush without the membrane and everything works and water is coming from the tap BUT after putting the membran in the housing there is no water coming from the tap ?
Once you've flushed the filters through and installed the membrane, it will take some time for the tank to fill before it can come out the faucet
Seems a big hole for such a small tap stem ?
Mines doesn't have that tank the yellow tubing connects to.does this matter?
Hi Gary. It depends on your use. If you're using it for drinking water, it would be a good idea to attach a tank so that there will always be water available to drink and you're not having to wait for the system to produce the water when you call for it. If it is for another use such as aquatics or window cleaning, you would just use the system as and when you needed to and run the water into your tank or container. We have reverse osmosis storage tanks available on our site, prices starting from £16.99 - www.finerfilters.co.uk/domestic-reverse-osmosis/spares.html . If you are thinking about purchasing a tank, please give us a call on 01704 807600 so we can be sure you are receiving the correct fittings also :-). Thanks, Shaun
Hi. Does anyone here know why the tank is not filling please? I've left it overnight & it filled ok, nothing great. Then left again for 4 hours, I get 4-5 minutes of water running with low pressure.
The pressure with tank empty is around 10 psi but when left for tank to fill up, doesn't change.
However, I had previously owned an RO system & never had any problems with pressure or tank filling up.
PSm I've tried phoning with bicycle pump but made no difference to the pressure guage.
Hello sir, if you are continuing to experience issues producing water then I advise you contact our customer service team - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk. They will be able to troubleshoot and assist you to get your system up and running correctly.
Thanks, Shaun
Hi, I bought 5 stages osmosis filter and it is working fine, is it possible to add the mineral filter after having bought and setup the 5 stages one? thank you
It is indeed possible to add the mineral filter later, as an upgrade. You just need 2 extra fittings (push-fit, 1/8, you can find them on their website for around 2 quid a piece).
The first one we got has an electric pump now they do not but have to connectors on the tank.
Hi Amigo. Do you have a query regarding this product?
Thanks, Shaun
Finerfilters LTD I’ve fitted it but as I said the tank has to connectors one isn’t used.
Is there any reason for this?
@@amigaamigo5307 Hi Amigo,
On the tank, you will see a threaded opening at the top of the tank where you screw the tank connector into and attach the 1/4" tubing to. The fitting at the bottom of the tank which is covered by a white stopper is actually the tank valve. This works like a bike tyre valve as you use this to re inflate the bladder within the tank if needed. You can also check the pressure of the bladder through this valve and it should be sitting around 8-10PSI. If you require any more info, dont hesitate to drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk.
Thanks, Shaun
Finerfilters LTD it has one for the tank base and two for connecting to the system. Side by side
@@amigaamigo5307 hi amigo, please send us a photo of the tank and a message mentioning your query to our enquiries email address if you require further help with this issue. Many thanks, Shaun
Why is there so much volume water going lost out of waste water drain line?
Hi Morne, thank you for your question.
This is totally normal for the reverse osmosis process, as the unit must waste water to create pure water. With our units, the ratio of waste water to pure water is usally around 3-4:1, providing parameters such as water pressure and water temperature are optimal. The unit has to seperate the permeate (pure water) and the waste water into seperate channels within the membrane to make sure that the product water is as pure as possible. Hope this helps :-). Thanks, Shaun
lol the hole in the sink , wrong drill size .
Hi Duke, the drill bit used in the installation part of the video was indeed slightly larger than the 1/2" bit we displayed in the beginning. This was because the particular drill bit we had at the start was a wooden drill bit and not suitable for metal. However, as long as the base plate and bottom plate secure over the drilled hole then the tap will stay in place. Hope this helps! Thanks, Shaun
Is this the same for 6 stage with pump?
Hi Tazz. Yes, this set up video is the same for the 6 stage pumped unit. The only difference is that the pumped unit requires a power socket nearby so it can be plugged in. Hope this helps :-). Thanks, Shaun.
@@finerfilters thank you!!! I wish you could pop through the computer and fit it for me.. Lol!! 😁
@@tazzandhertribe Hi Tazz. Ahh it's not too bad once you get into it :-)!! You can always give us a call on 01704 807600 if you require any help along the way. The units also come with a detailed instructions booklet with everything you need to know about the unit. Thanks, Shaun.
Hi. I fully installed the system, with no leaks (after a few minor floods) - touch wood! But on the 2nd flush I couldn't get a steady flow of water through the tap, just a spurt for a few seconds then nothing, then same again after I turned tap on after few seconds of waiting. I have it set up to fill the tank which it seems to do so slowly and I can get more out of the tap before it drains. I only thought then to check the water pressure on the unit and it's reading 40 psi.....think you guys say 45 is the minimum right? Would this be the reason for the failed 2nd flush? or should I check any of the filters are clogged? if this is the likely reason is it easy enough to fit the pump after the rest or would it be like starting again (not sure the wife could handle the cursing..) Thanks for the support - Colin
Hi Colin, thank you for your purchase and your question.
So, with the water spurting out of the tap initially after the second flush, this is normal as i imagine that this was immediately after getting the unit hooked up. 40PSI is the minimum required for the unit to operate, however optimal pressure for the stated membrane output (50 gallons/189 litres per day) is acheived with an optimal pressure of 80PSI - double the minimum pressure required. With a pressure of 40PSI, the unit will still create RO water, just at a slow pace compared to if you were to have the recommended optimal pressure.
In relation to checking if your filter elements are clogged - when you flushed the carbon and sediment filters out for the first time, you hopefully should have done this without the membrane installed initially, as the loose carbon fines from the carbon filters could have travelled up into the membrane housing and prematurely blocked your membrane, resulting in slower flow and fouling. If this is the case, you may need to re-order a new membrane. Hopefully if this isn't the case, and when you flushed make sure you had opened the L1 valve to flush the unit through and get that membrane element saturated with water. Be sure to have the L1 valve CLOSED when you want to produce any pure water at all. The L1 valve bypasses the flow restrictor which creates the backlog of pressure within the membrane housing allowing the water to be forced through the membrane under pressure, and should only be opened to clean the membrane or when you have replaced the filters in the unit. The RO process isn't a quick one as it is, especially with the lowest stated pressure for operation. As i mentioned previously though, if since writing this post you have gotten a full tank's worth of water and water can be drawn when it's called for then it's likely you have everything set up correctly and may just have to adjust to the time the unit produces water. The tank stores around 6/7 litres, and will automatically start refilling once the tank drops below a certain level. One way to check is to empty your tank and check on it every now and again to see how long it takes to do a full fill.
Finally, there is the option to add a booster pump post installation, no problem. If you have any more questions regarding this or may be interested in doing so, dont hesitate to call us on 01704 807600 or drop us an email - enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk :-).
Many thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters Hi Shaun, this is all really helpful information thanks for taking the time for such detailed replies! So 24 hrs plus now what I can say is I am definitely getting RO water as the DTS goes from 150ish for the live tap to 15/20 for the water from the filter fosset. However I did not do the first flush correctly as you mention in your response. I had the L1 valve closed rather than open. I realised this when I went to install the membrane as the housing was full of water which didn't seem right and you didn't warn about it in the video. I thought I might have dodged the bullet as the membrane wasn't in at the time but maybe installing after not full cleaning and drying out the housing could have fouled/damaged the membrane in some way? I am getting the tank filled with RO water for sure but I'm not sure the tank is fully filling (as when I empty it out it for sure is not 3gallons coming out before it runs dry - even after letting it fill for 8hrs plus. As I mentioned when I do the 2nd flush steps (tank off and L1 valve open) I can't seem to get water coming through steadily at all, just a cup full and then it runs dry, seems the rest is actively going down the waster pipe.......I'm fine to buy another membrane if you think that might the problem (or a pump for that matter) is there any steps I can take to try and clean or unclog the membrane so I could eliminate that before spending good money on it? I noticed that PSI drops to 37/38 every now and then on the unit.....it's really weird as the pressure from the mains tap seems very high (not sure how I could test the actuals) so much so that we rarely turn that tap on full blast as it splashes water everywhere in the kitchen. Doing the initial flush wrong couldn't have caused an air lock or something could it? reason I ask is that sometimes I hear a groan when running RO water from the tap (from the stored RO water in the tank) kind of groan you would associate with a central heating system that needs to be bled......let me know thoughts from more information above and then I'll order the membrane or pump depending on your advice.
Thanks again for all the support and service - Colin
@@colinanderson7407 Hi Colin, no problem at all! Glad it was helpful.
Ok great, i've taken all that on board. What would be best would be for you to give me a call on 01704 807600 as it will be so much easier to talk through with you over the phone :-). In the office from 9-5 today and tomorrow so give me a call when you've got a free minute.
Many thanks, Shaun
I just changed all the filters and checked water and its showing acidic water.. Hp is ment to be green this means im drinking water with no minerals this could be dangerous... I brought 6st filter so i can have minerals in water. Why is this happening
Hi Mr Barak. This is strange... please can you check to see if the yellow filter is a resin filter or a remineralising filter? Either way, if you'd like to message enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk, we can get a replacement mineral filter sent out to you to correct the issue. Thanks
serait il possible d'avoir la notice de montage en français?
Bonjour,
Veuillez envoyer un e-mail à enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk et demander les instructions. Nous pouvons vous envoyer la copie numérique dans laquelle vous pouvez utiliser google translate pour traduire au fur et à mesure? Espérons que cela aide. Merci beaucoup, Shaun
Why make a huge hole for a tiny 12mm tap stem ????????
Still can't get it working right, more videos are easy to do and would be a BIG help.
Hi Alswords. We are currently moving site with our warehouse and office so there will be more videos in the future, just not for a few months. What seems to be the problem with the unit? If you need to speak to someone about this, feel free to call 01704 807600. Thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters Hi It was 'fitted' by a plumber 9 months ago, then it started leaking and I realised i needed to change filter. Then i find it wasn't fitted correctly the blue cylinder wasn't fitted at all. I put it in correctly i think but there is no water from the tap now:( just dribbles.
Hi @@LOGOASSASSIN, I understand. The blue cylindrical filter which you installed is the Reverse Osmosis Membrane, which is going to be doing the majority of the filtration. This requires a high pressure to operate under as the water must be pushed through tiny holes in the semi-permeable membrane. It could be that you don't have sufficient water pressure for the unit, or that your membrane could be clogged. As mentioned, please give us a call if you have any more questions. Thanks, Shaun
@@finerfilters if there's not enough pressure does that mean i've wasted my money buying it?
Hi @@LOGOASSASSIN. Not at all! We do offer booster pumps & booster pump kits for the units. We also do pumped and unpumped units. The 50GPD booster pump kit is £63.99, but the difference in price between a pumped and unpumped unit is around £18. If you'd like to know anymore regarding the pumps and pressure, please call us on 01704 807600 :-). Thanks, Shaun.
Good
1.) what should be the average Ph of the water produced from this as mine is reading 8.5 this seems too high .
2) Do you have to flush before use , how do you do this ?
3) can the remineralise tube be removed ?
Hi Hezekiyah, thank you for your question.
1. Referencing question number 3, I presume you have the 6 stage unit with the remineraliser filter? Pure RO water has a slightly acidic PH and can read between 6-7PH. With the remineraliser filter, it adds essential minerals back into the water such as calcium and magnesium to boost the overall TDS and PH, turning it from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The reading of 8.5PH is totally normal and is a good indication that the remineraliser filter is working.
2. It is recommended to flush the system on your first water flush or filter replacement, or even after not using the system for a week or so. The best way to do this for the FIRST flush when you've replaced the filters is to remove the membrane or make sure it hasn't been installed. This is because when you flush the pre-filters for the first time, loose carbon fines exit the filters (which is completely normal) and will prematurely block the membrane, rendering it useless and would require you to purchase another one. Once the water has run clear, you will be good to add the membrane back in and re-do the process. If you are just looking to flush the system after not using it for a while then you can open the L1 valve (see 8:53 in the video) and this will let water bypass the flow restrictor - allowing the water to skim over the membrane with no restricton and essentially clean it. Make sure you close the L1 valve after 5-10 minutes of flushing as your system will not produce RO water when this valve is open. You can find more flushing information on page 11-12 in our installation guide.
3. Yes, the remineraliser filter can be removed if you wish. Just note the PH and TDS will drop, and the taste will change if you decide to do this.
Thanks, Shaun.
Finerfilters LTD thank you so much for replying , I’m so confused of the flush process . I had a plumber install it . So it it’s already set up and I’ve been using it . Could I possibly do a video call and you can talk me though the steps ?
@@hezekiyahisrael5804 Hi Hezekiyah, no problem! I see, is the system operating as expected? If so it would seem the plumber has installed it correctly.
We unfortunately dont have a video calling service set up as of yet, however feel free to call 01704 807600 to speak to a member of our team who will happily help you with any enquiries you may have :-). Thanks
I,m confused as to which pipes go into which parts of the four way valve, your video does not show this. At least not very clearly.
Hi Kimball,
Which part do you mean by the 4-way valve? Do you mean the auto shutoff valve situated at the back of the unit? Our systems come already pre-configured and you shouldn't need to touch the auto shut off valve.
If you are assembling another unit, or building your own RO, there are plenty of videos on youtube highlighting the configuration of the ASOV. This is purely a video for installation. We will hopefully have another video highlighting other parts of the unit coming soon. Hope this helps :-).
Many thanks,
Shaun
@@finerfilters I recently needed to change filters on my five stage system, and needed to know if I had place all the wires back in the right order with the 4 way valve
@@kimballcrocferd9988 Hi Kimball, understood. If you'd like to send us an email enquiries@finerfilters.co.uk and address the email to myself - Shaun, then i have a photo of the configuration of the auto shut off valve I can send you. For future reference, you shouldn't have to remove the tubes from the ASOV to replace the filters.
Many thanks,
Shaun
Does this remove fluoride?
Hi Coin Op. Thanks for your comment.
Yes, Reverse Osmosis is one of, if not the most effective water filtration method there is. Removing up to 98% of contaminants in water, fluoride had a rejection rate of around 94-96%. Please don't hesitate to give us a call on 01704 807600 if you would like to discuss this further, or leave us a contact form on our "contact us" section on our website. Thanks, Shaun.
he either tells it wrong by saying sediment filter first and pointing to the middle or assembles it wrong by putting the blue one in the middle . The instruction book is not very clear about this either not helped by two of the filters having almost the same name labels on the actual unit would be most helpful .
Ok so from the manual the sediment should be on the right not in the center as he says in this video .
I can only guess the blue to the center is correct .
Why the pump is so loud ? Had RO system before but this one is so loud . Is there any solution?