It is simply a normally-open button and it is wired to a GPIO pin (GPIO3 I think?) and ground and add a line to your Pi's boot config file to tell it to use GPIO shutdown. Pressing the button will then shutdown the Pi. Pressing again will power the Pi back on. I was using a Pi 3b+ so the newer Pis may work differently. But you can find a lot of examples by searching for "Raspberry Pi power button". Here's a decent one to start: www.instructables.com/Raspberry-Pi-Power-Button/
Great video, I've just ordered my Ultimarc controls so I'm all in. Couple of questions on this video, would you be willing to share the powerstrip models, the power buses(and where purchased), if possible the toggle switch used for mains power.
Hi Paul. All of the items you are asking about came from Amazon. Here are some Amazon affiliate links, but note that some of these items may have been discontinued or replaced by newer models (since they were originally ordered in 2018): Primary (always on) power strip: amzn.to/3LwGxBX Secondary (switched) power strip: amzn.to/387xMjY Power bus: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K49NMW Main AC Power Toggle: amzn.to/3G6bw6J Let me know if you have any additional questions. Good luck on your project. Keep me advised on your progress.
Hey Paul. I thought I'd try pinging you here. I did respond to your last email regarding Proxmox/HA on VM a couple of weeks ago. In fact, I tried responding using two different email accounts and also tried pinging you on Discord but I hadn't heard anything back. But I believe that Hotmail may be blocking my email accounts (somehow they appear to be flagged... probably from me sharing code blocks and samples via email). I just didn't want you to think I wasn't responding, so I thought I'd try posting a comment here in hopes that you will see it. Could you let me know if you did or didn't receive my email response(s)? Until I get the email situation cleared up, Discord may be the best way for me to communicate with you.
This is great. I'm trying to work out how to do the external power switch. I can't quite figure out how the switch works. As in, what are the steps - you get power from the mains, and plug that into the power board (black one), then you've stripped the plug off the (black) power board and added the switch? And everything then plugged into the power board doesn't get power when the switch is off? There's loads of videos about cabinet builds but not many seem to cover this off! Thanks
So, basically, the white power strip is the one directly plugged into the wall outlet/mains. This is the 'continuous' power supply for the cabinet. But as I mentioned, I ended up not really needing anything continuously powered. So the only thing plugged into the white supply is the black supply. But I tapped into the power cord for the black supply and added the toggle switch. Now, if you are using a non-illuminated switch (just assure any switch you use is rated for 120V AC), you can just split the hot and wire it across a switch... just like you would a normal a/c wall switch. If you are going to use an illuminated switch like I did, then you also need to tap the neutral. I just stripped the insulation back from the power cord and cut the hot and neutral (I left the ground intact) and ran leads up to the external switch. If you haven't looked at the related blog article, there are a couple of additional photos that might help with this explanation ( retroarcadebuild.blogspot.com/p/the-arcade-build-part-iii.html ). When wired this way, anything plugged into the white supply will maintain power as long as the cabinet is plugged into the wall, but anything plugged into the black supply will be powered off whenever the external toggle switch is turned off. I hope that explanation helps... and answers what you were asking. But let me know if you have any additional follow up questions, about this, or any other part of the cabinet build.
Well, for one the IPAC has 96 channels for LED lights used within the controls. It also has up to 48 inputs... plus the ability 'shift' any input for a second keyboard code. It can also emulate gamepads/mouse. And finally, since all my controls were from Ultimarc, this board (also by Ultimarc) added convenient plug-and-play capability for the trackball and spinner. You could easily build a panel for 4 players using this single board and a single USB connection to the Pi. I used a cheap encoder with the prototype that I built before the arcade cabinet. The IPAC, to me, was well worth the extra cost for all the additional features and ease of use/hookup. You can see more of the features of the IPAC (over a standard encoder) here: www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/
This is like Saturday morning cartoons! Thanks again for the great video and being so thorough.
I guess that would make me Elmer Fudd? Seriously, thanks for watching and adding a comment. Next week will be the final part in this series.
@@ResinChemTech more Wile E Coyote :)
Great video. How exactly did you get a power switch to work with the Pi? How’d you wire it?
It is simply a normally-open button and it is wired to a GPIO pin (GPIO3 I think?) and ground and add a line to your Pi's boot config file to tell it to use GPIO shutdown. Pressing the button will then shutdown the Pi. Pressing again will power the Pi back on. I was using a Pi 3b+ so the newer Pis may work differently. But you can find a lot of examples by searching for "Raspberry Pi power button". Here's a decent one to start: www.instructables.com/Raspberry-Pi-Power-Button/
Thank you, that’s exactly what I’m looking for.
Great video, I've just ordered my Ultimarc controls so I'm all in. Couple of questions on this video, would you be willing to share the powerstrip models, the power buses(and where purchased), if possible the toggle switch used for mains power.
Hi Paul. All of the items you are asking about came from Amazon. Here are some Amazon affiliate links, but note that some of these items may have been discontinued or replaced by newer models (since they were originally ordered in 2018):
Primary (always on) power strip: amzn.to/3LwGxBX
Secondary (switched) power strip: amzn.to/387xMjY
Power bus: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K49NMW
Main AC Power Toggle: amzn.to/3G6bw6J
Let me know if you have any additional questions. Good luck on your project. Keep me advised on your progress.
Hey Paul. I thought I'd try pinging you here. I did respond to your last email regarding Proxmox/HA on VM a couple of weeks ago. In fact, I tried responding using two different email accounts and also tried pinging you on Discord but I hadn't heard anything back.
But I believe that Hotmail may be blocking my email accounts (somehow they appear to be flagged... probably from me sharing code blocks and samples via email). I just didn't want you to think I wasn't responding, so I thought I'd try posting a comment here in hopes that you will see it.
Could you let me know if you did or didn't receive my email response(s)? Until I get the email situation cleared up, Discord may be the best way for me to communicate with you.
This is great. I'm trying to work out how to do the external power switch. I can't quite figure out how the switch works.
As in, what are the steps - you get power from the mains, and plug that into the power board (black one), then you've stripped the plug off the (black) power board and added the switch? And everything then plugged into the power board doesn't get power when the switch is off?
There's loads of videos about cabinet builds but not many seem to cover this off! Thanks
So, basically, the white power strip is the one directly plugged into the wall outlet/mains. This is the 'continuous' power supply for the cabinet. But as I mentioned, I ended up not really needing anything continuously powered. So the only thing plugged into the white supply is the black supply. But I tapped into the power cord for the black supply and added the toggle switch. Now, if you are using a non-illuminated switch (just assure any switch you use is rated for 120V AC), you can just split the hot and wire it across a switch... just like you would a normal a/c wall switch. If you are going to use an illuminated switch like I did, then you also need to tap the neutral. I just stripped the insulation back from the power cord and cut the hot and neutral (I left the ground intact) and ran leads up to the external switch. If you haven't looked at the related blog article, there are a couple of additional photos that might help with this explanation ( retroarcadebuild.blogspot.com/p/the-arcade-build-part-iii.html ).
When wired this way, anything plugged into the white supply will maintain power as long as the cabinet is plugged into the wall, but anything plugged into the black supply will be powered off whenever the external toggle switch is turned off. I hope that explanation helps... and answers what you were asking. But let me know if you have any additional follow up questions, about this, or any other part of the cabinet build.
I built an arcade without the IPAC using a cheap encoder wired directly to the raspberry pi . what is the advantage of using the IPAC?
Well, for one the IPAC has 96 channels for LED lights used within the controls. It also has up to 48 inputs... plus the ability 'shift' any input for a second keyboard code. It can also emulate gamepads/mouse. And finally, since all my controls were from Ultimarc, this board (also by Ultimarc) added convenient plug-and-play capability for the trackball and spinner. You could easily build a panel for 4 players using this single board and a single USB connection to the Pi.
I used a cheap encoder with the prototype that I built before the arcade cabinet. The IPAC, to me, was well worth the extra cost for all the additional features and ease of use/hookup. You can see more of the features of the IPAC (over a standard encoder) here: www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/