OMG someone who can actually deliver a How to video without the constant waffling/verbal diarrhea that most seem to be full of. Excellent delivery and clear concise information just what I have been looking for will be making mine as soon as all the parts arrive from the east.
There's a lot of great videos on this subject, but in my opinion, this is the best one. Thank you for taking the time to record and share your project with all of us who truly appreciate it. You just got another subscriber. Cheers
So far the best video tutorial on how to Convert ATX Computer Power Supply with USB ports. Very clear and easily understandable even non-techies can do! Keep up the great job!
no bs and fluff, just straight to the point explaining the process with helpful illustrations along the way. appreciate explaining even the dumber stuff I was confused when starting this project without acting like it's all obvious, thanks.
Great delivery and very resourceful use of mostly on-hand items. I don't think people realize how much work goes into organizing all of this and making it so concise and to the point. The USB portion is well-suited to your purpose. I'll problably end up building something that breaks out 12/5/3.3v, but will steer clear of the USB option. There are just to many viariables of what one might want to power with that. Confined to your purpose it's great.
Hey, I wanted to say thank you and that I'm quite disappointed to see you haven't uploaded in a while. Six years ago you uploaded a video on how to make a little radio transmitter, I don't know how I ended up finding that video originally but it was one of the first real projects I have ever done and seeing something I made work really inspired me. Since then I've really gotten into DIYing and prototyping, on August 18th I'll be starting university for Engineering. I know that when you created that video 6 years ago you probably didn't realize that it would spark something in some random kid but I wanted to say thank you. I hope all is going well for you and every thing is okay.
It's my pleasure. I'm glad to have given you the inspiration. I know I've appreciated it when others have done the same for me so it's always a pleasure to return the favor. I haven't uploaded videos because I've taken on a full time job which has me travelling a lot. I still hope to find time to make more videos.
Cool build. One change I would make is to add a ~2.5A fuser on the 5V line going to the USB board. Without this there is the potential for the full 20A to flow out via the USB port and fry the heck out of whatever is hooked up to it. Remember, USB spec means devices will assume the max they can pull is 500mA, a badly/cheap usb device may rely on the source to cut off past a certain point rather than limit its own current.
Yeah, I agree. Someone else recently pointed out something similar except in that case it was because of the thin wires in the cable I reused for connecting to the USB board -- they might not be able to handle high current. I've been using it to power servo motors, normal USB uses hadn't occurred to me.
What I did is put a panel over the fan hole to hold the binding posts and usb connectors. The power supply is 500 watts. But I'm not asking for more than 75 watts ever. It doesn't need a fan. I think it would still shut down if it got too hot. I use it for charging phones and powering a 10 meter radio. I figured this would work because the machine it was in was only pulling 250 watts and the fan barely turned. The fan went bad. So I recycled.
Excellent video. As others have said, one of, if not the BEST, video on this conversion. All very well explained which is lacking in most other videos.
That would make a great starter general purpose power supply. Adding in voltage and current regulators would really make it great. Also, voltage and current displays could also be added.
Nice video. I have a couple of suggestions: 1) Don't solder crimp connectors if you can avoid it. Solder can fracture and break the wires. 2) Connect the feed to the fuse end terminals and the output to the front rings. This is safer if you are holding the fuse as you insert it. Other than that, good job.
Thanks for the nice video. Could you please do a little more detailed video on the software you used and process for printing the front panel. That looks like it would be very useful skillset to have for making custom boxes and panels etc. Greetings from Macedonia.
Most ATX PSUs have minimum load requirements on one or more of their output voltage rails. If you do not have enough load then they will not regulate properly and one or more rails may be over or under voltage or be unstable or have excessive ripple. Some require a dummy load on 12V, some on 5V and some also need a dummy load on 3.3V. The manufacturers assume they will be connected to a PC mainboard which provides an active (and capacitive) load on each rail. Using it as a bench supply is not what it was designed for and it may not regulate properly unless you meet its min. load requirements. Unfortunately, very few mfrs actually print the minimum load requirements of their PSUs so you have to guess and check the output rails carefully!
Do you think you could have added a potentiometer to some of those 12v wires and created an adjustable voltage for different projects? I think this is perfect for building and testing circuits! Kudos great job!
load is required by the power supply to keep the switching transistor stable... a non-zero voltage is require to keep the base current biased - this voltage only occurs when the transistor is supplying current.. thus to remain stable, the transistors need an output load... this carries over to op amps, etc. hope this helps. Anyways, for your application, there is a slight current draw by the USB power board, which is probably enough load to let your particular power supply turn on... might not work for every atx power supply... even the same brand can have some differences due to tolerances of various components. =D
RimstarOrg 1 mês atrás I miss making all these videos for you. I recently started a new job, one involving teaching (!), and so I've focused on that until I'm up to expert level there. I'll do more videos then.
Computer power supply for USB? Next, let's use a V12 to power my lawnmower! :-P In all seriousness, pretty sure the fuse you shown at 6:06 is the mains fuse, which won't do anything if there's a short on the output. In most case, ATX power supplies already have built-in, self-resetting short circuit protection so those fuses on the front serve next to no protection but still pretty nice to have, probably. And oh, I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about 3V3 feedback wire.
Yes! A V12 to power a lawnmower sounds awesome! :) Seriously though, for portability I either had to bring batteries (wouldn't last the two days of the Makerfaire and there's no time to recharge), bring my desktop computer (no way I was doing that, and no laptop), or make this. And this will be useful for many more things too. Regarding the fuses, some places I read said you needed them and others indicated what you're saying. No way I was going to take a chance on that internal fuse blowing at an inconvenient time since it'd be a nightmare to replace. A lot easier to play it safe and have easy to replace fuses. Re the 3V3 feedback wire, I was aware of it but it just didn't come up in my case. Maybe I should have mentioned it anyway.
RimstarOrg If you do not want the internal fuse to blow, then you should have the external fuses 'set' to a lower amperage. (That way they blow before the internal one(s).)
+RimstarOrg what about the voltage drop across the fuse on the output? It does not seem to affect the raspberry presumably because it has some input tolerances, but I don't know for more sensible electronics
I don't know what the voltage drop is across the fuse but I measured the voltage at the 5-volt binding post and it was 5.24 volts just using the meter so the voltage drop can't have been much.
Great job, nice explained. Just a safety comment, at 11:04 you expose your finger with that scalpel knife. I had to receive 3 stiches at my left finger because of that tecnique, 40 years ago. Better, be sure to use some pliers for those wires. Greettings. Nice job.
Though your video on "Convert ATX/PC Power Supply for USB seems very useful for Common men practically not a Electric/Electronic Circuitry knowledged It would be more appreciable , if the list of accessories with names and how to determine specific capacities/efficiencies values such as Ampere,Watts,Volts, Wire gauges requirements would have furnished as ready reckoner. May i expect your Description in detailed way please?
bravo..very detailed one. everything was very neat and clean. I have one query, do we need to use all the red, yellow etc wires. cant we use one wire of each color? wont single wires will deliver the same power ????
Yes, you can use one wire of each color. I'm pretty sure each wire's diameter is rated for the rated available current otherwise it wouldn't work in a computer.
It's possible that what goes wrong is that the insulation on a live wire (the 5V wire for example) goes bad and the copper part of the wire touches the metal case of the device which is plugged in but not necessarily turned on. If that case comes in contact with something which is grounded then there will be a high current electrical path from the live wire to the case and then to ground, not even involving the ground wire. So we put the fuse on the live wire. It's done the same way with household wiring in North America, except there the question would be why do we put it on the live wire (HOT) and not on the neutral. See my video about What is Ground for diagrams and explanation th-cam.com/video/zLW_7TPf310/w-d-xo.html. It applies to this PC power supply too.
Hello and greetings from Saudi Arabia. I would thank you for the great videos and the illustration you make it available for your followers and viewers. I would be appreciated if you could making a video for how to draw a schematic for a vintage tube radio or other vintage tube audio devices for the devices which has no schematics available on the web for buying or downloading so, the user learns how to draw a schematic of his/her vintage device to publish on the vintage electronics forums to help anyone needs to service or restoring the same device to benefit from the schematics made and drawing from the devices directly. Also I will appreciated if you could recommending the software to use in drawing. Thanks.
hello amigo! i think we can also connect a 12v auto bulb in place of that 10watt dummy resistor load, that would be a cheaper alternative to buying a 10 watt resistor?
Fuses should be added to each DC output . Otherwise an accidental short circuit, or a bad component can ruin the AX power supply which can be very difficult to repair.
Wow, true enough. I'm actively working on a project but it's still at least a month away from being ready, depending on my work-travel schedule (which can take me away for a week or two at a time). I really want to get a video out before the end of the calendar year.
@@RimstarOrg How about converting an old pc with a 500 power supply into a massive PSU with multiple displays and amperage control knobs? I am designing one in Visio which I started earlier today.
Hello brother It's a great video. I'm going to do this sometimes I have a little doubt, but in your video you said that the power source that consumes the most power is 12 volts 132 watts. It is necessary to connect the dummy load, but actually in your video per 5 volts 110 watts, so I'm not sure that How should it be connected to be correct? I need help Because I don't have any electronic knowledge.
Good catch! You're right. In my diagram, I show the dummy load connected to the 5V but when I actually test it, I connect it to the 12V like I said I would. I chose the highest power source because it should be able to handle the high load better, so go with the 12V. Connecting it to 5V in the diagram was an error. Thanks!
@@RimstarOrg 👍🤞It's fine. I'm happy. I will make sure that I can connect the circuits properly. Because I don't have basic knowledge in electronics And I am training to learn from videos in TH-cam I thank you very much
Do you need a special potentiometer to use in a 12v 10A to 25A power supply circuit? The sellers rarely give amperage specs on the potentiometer listings. I have a power supply made from a computer PS. I want to make it variable. Seems simple enough. But I do not want to fry my potentiometers or damage other components in the process. I have a bunch of 10k linear pots but I am guessing they might be rated around 3 to 5 A?
@@RimstarOrg YES. Please search for Wire Sound Recorder on the internet and you will get a lot details. This was a very basic device which illustrates the basic details of analogue sound recording techniques
Nice job. I hope you noticed you have a mistake on your diagram shown at 6.23?...GND is connected to the 3.3V+ binding post...Hopefully no-one used that diagram to build their project🤣👍🇦🇺
You're right. Thanks for pointing that out. Hopefully they followed the steps I did as I followed the diagram, then they'll notice that I didn't make that connection. I'll see if I can pin your comment to the top or something.
@@RimstarOrg 👍🤣 It was a long time ago you posted this video so hopefully someone would've been in touch by now if they had a 'head scratching moment' Luckily these supplies are pretty well protected, but I can just picture someone wondering 'why does my power supply keep shutting down🤔?'...lol
Thanks! You should be able to charge your cellphone but you should put a 2.5A fuse on the 5V USB wire going to the USB board. This was a good suggestion by Jarrod Coombes here in the comments. I didn't have normal USB applications in mind when I made this -- I use it for powering servo motors. Some normal USB devices assume the current is limited to much lower than it is in this power supply and don't provide their own protection so the fuse should add protection for those devices. You still charge it at your own risk though.
I wish we had a store that carried these parts. Everything has to be ordered in. If you are going to get something shipped you might as well take a chance on a Chinese ebay shop. Ending in substandard devices. Now if someone opened a shop they could not compete with the prices.
You can see at 3:29 that the 5V output is rated for 22A, so yes. However, the ribbon cable I reused from the USB circuit board has very thin wires which wouldn't handle even 15A, probably not even 10A. So with suitable wires, and possibly without the circuit board, it should be able to output 20A.
im currently looking for these fuses but all the fuse holders i find are for 250V 10A. can i put any fuse in these fuse holders? like can i put a 30A fuse in a normal holder?
Can I ask u a question in regarding to measure AC and DC current. I am building a power supply from Microwave transformer. I have a Flute multi meter. It can only measure AC current. I can check AC current before and After the Transformer. But after circuit go through bridge rectifier. How can I check DC current ? Is there a way to mathematically convert AC current to DC current?
Seriously, what is needed is converting computer power supplies into car battery chargers. Find a way to take the 12 volt output which is usually in the range between 11 volts and 12 volts and is incapable of fully charging a car battery. Please use your knowledge to make the power supply output 14 to 15 volts. For lack of knowledge, I was afraid to put the 3.3 volt output in series with the 12 volt output. If that is not possible, you will have to find a way to amplify (transform) the 12 volts to 14 to 15 volts. Car battery chargers are needed all over the world and adapters from 12 volts to USB can be found in the dollar stores. Please help computer power supplies have a second life as car battery chargers. With your sophistication, I am confident that you can transform this power supply to one that supplies voltages for multiple rechargeable batteries form 1.5 volts to 15 volts. More power to you sir!
You can buy brackets with 4 usb 2.0 ports from eBay and they cost less than 3$, no point butchering boards. Just search for "usb bracket". Brackets with 2 ports can often be bought for 99 cents or something like that, sometimes even in stores like newegg - and you can probably get some for free at places like Freegeek Also worth mentioning that cheap power supplies these days are often group regulated, which means there's a main output voltage (typically 12v) and the 5v and 3.3v outputs are regulated based on the 12v load... if there's no significant load on 12v (let's say 20w or more), the 5v output could be quite a bit off, like 4.8v instead of 5v. In your particular case, you're lucky that you have an ancient psu which is designed from the start to output most of its power on 5v. You should have cut off the wires and connectors and use AWG16 or AWG18 wires for less voltage drop... that psu probably uses AWG20 wires
This was the only use I had to the board. Gradually I'll have stripped everything useful from that old computer and throw what's left away. This way, the USB boards gets to be used again. It's good to know that you can buy them though. I'm sure I'll need more at some point. Thanks. Regarding the size of the wires in the PSU, they were all 18 AWG. I know that because I used the 18 AWG sized hole on my strippers to strip them.
Going directly from the 5V power to my Maestro board would cause the board to error out within 30 seconds or so. I don't know what the error was but I didn't have that problem when I included the USB breakout board. I know there are capacitors and resistors in its circuit for the power lines so possibly some filtering was needed. I couldn't make out the full circuit on the board in order to replicate it with my own components and I couldn't find a good source online. So I just used the board. It was just the Maestro which was sensitive (that I know of), plenty of other things work directly off the 5V directly from the PSU.
Sir, | V=IR, V is directly proportional to i. And, I=Q/T V directly proportional to Q But,from V =W/Q V =1/Q So, V is inversely proportional to charge Q. Sir it is has some contradiction i ask my physics teacher he said time is not constant and Q gets variation.please help me in this IN potential due to a point charge Derivation V proportional To Q. And in capacitance Q=CV .Same as above proportionality. Sorry sir i still don't understand why V=1/Q.
@science mode laboratory - absolutely NOBODY cares whether V=1/Q. You shouldn't concern yourself with it either PS: This is TH-cam, and that's for watching videos.
*Hi there RimstarOrg* was looking at your video collection and ive been a sub of your since 11yrs ago wow! lol (how to make solar cells). Anyway, hope things are good. I like this well explained video, and might do this myself. Never heard of merrets before and those ring terminals look neat. Can i ask something, how do you regulate the amps? ~ or will it only draw what the device wants? all the best, kieron
Hi kieron, I'm glad to hear you've stuck around all this time. I don't know for certain that this power supply will limit the current to the maximum amount written on the sticker on the power supply. But if the load tries to draw any amount up to what's written then the power supply will give it. So if the sticker says the maximum is 22A and the load tries to draw 5A then the power supply will give it only 5A. And in case you go shopping for them, merret is spelt marrette, which is actually a brand name but that's what many people call them. A more generic name is twist-on wire connector.
@@RimstarOrg Thank mate, thats cool. Good to know devices will only draw as much as they need hmm... Ive just made a "camper" trailer and put 12vs in it too for lighting and power supply (camera). It means i can just rock up, cook my food and then kip in my car. Here in the UK our cars are tiny lol, thought id share :) Just got back from Wales. Needed it, i like the peace and the quiet of nature. ibb.co/DpPMS4m ibb.co/w7kpjhm ibb.co/gVDb1hN ibb.co/NpD5Gfv
Keep in mind that I was talking about the specific power supply in this video. A battery would behave similarly. However, some power supplies allow you to limit the current to something below their maximum, called current limiting. Nice job on the trailer.
I don't think they'll be enough. Even my 10w10ohm resistor got hot enough to cause a little browning of the poster board that it was sitting on. The purpose of the dummy load is to be something that you will look like you are powering something. You could also look for a real load, in other words, power something, perhaps an old incandescent lightbulb.
Hi, Steven! This is Carleigh, and I work with a production company in Texas. Right now, we are trying to recreate your experiment creating lightning in a bottle with a Van De Graaf generator for a show we are working on. We are having trouble recreating your experiment. Would you be okay offering up some advice?
Hi Carleigh. How big is your Van de Graaff generator's dome? That's an indicator of its potential output. The first thing would be to test if your generator is working well. I show a bunch of simple demonstrations you can try here th-cam.com/video/Gf6EbRmYImI/w-d-xo.html. Very humid air is also bad and will reduce the voltage you can get. Also, make sure there are no sharp metal objects within a few feet of the generator since they may bleed off the charge. The spark length is also a good test (like I do near the beginning of the demo video) but is dangerous to do if you have a big generator and don't have access to a safe Earth ground (I wouldn't want you to damage your production equipment). If the generator seems fine then it may be the bottle. Make sure you use tap water and not distilled water since tap water is more electrically conductive. My bottle was a plastic one with thin walls. I don't know how well a glass bottle will work or one with thick walls. A thick bottom may also make it work less well.
Been watching a lot of videos on this subject and I'm confused about which wire to connect to the dummy load. Some videos suggest adding the 10ohm resistor to the rail with the highest amps, but you suggest the one with the most wattage. I have +3.3V, 22amp on one rail and +12V, 15amp on another. Was thinking of attaching the 10ohm to the +12, 15amp, if it's needed. What do you think?
I'll have to check my notes, I know I got that from a webpage but don't have access to the right computer at the moment (it takes a while to boot up and I have to get going). You want to dissipate power and taking it from the largest source make sense to me. But I'll find that reference for you anyhow this evening.
I don't know. As I show in the diagram at around 5:58, the 12V output can handle 10 amps. That's 120 watts (12V x 10 amps = 120 watts). Most soldering tools require less than that. So possibly it would work.
Hmmm... I hadn't considered using it as the low voltage power supply to feed one of my high voltage power supplies (which then feed the tesla coil). It should work. It would be a fixed voltage into the high voltage power supply but at least I have a selection of 3.3V, 5V, of 12V. The current ratings are even higher than the low voltage power supply that I usually use. Interesting.
@@RimstarOrg Thank you, that was very helpful ,Im low on money so ill just go to my local scrapyard and try my best to find parts that i can use and if it won't work i'll just buy old used psu
whats the amps of USB output? 22A? for cellphone we need 1A or (in max) 2A at[03:25] label shows the output of this Power Supply and the current for +5v is 22A i'm sorry for my Bad English
I don't know if the USB board with the connectors on it which I took from the computer has any current limiting so I can't say for sure. If it doesn't then the 22A would be the limit. However, the ribbon cable which I used has very thin wires in it too and so they'd probably melt at 22A. If all your cellphone uses is 1A or 2A then that should work fine. Note that the amp rating isn't how much the current will be output, it's a limit as to how much is available. It's your load, your cellphone, which determines how much current is output.
I've used a power bank normally used for charging phones. A quick search shows that using battery directly is a bad idea though there are some options still. Here's a random webpage that goes through the options along with the dangers www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/battery-power-your-pi
@@RimstarOrg the TH-camr great Scott made a video where he build a console and he used batteries th-cam.com/video/_MtN_s4tVK0/w-d-xo.html That's the video
Notice he pointed out that the Pi Zero that he used has a DC-DC converter on it, the PAM2306. He also added more battery management circuitry to automatically switch off the power if the battery voltage goes too low.
hi .so , on the usb / mir port, i read 16amps per port .my +5v is rated at 30amps .before i burn my phone, can i have a recomandation ? my other on-hand-two options another 4 usb port, wich gives out 500mAps .. wich is low , and the last, recycle the converter from an old car charger and stickit to the 12v line. thnx for the videos
Yeah, for normal usb uses, the current will be too high, as you measured. I use it for powering servo motors, not the usual application. The only thing I can suggest is to put a low current fuse to protect your phone. Your converter idea might be the way to go.
Did you get locked up. Where's the new content. Hasn't Makers Fair come and gone. Did you Take part in it. Hope you are ok Great video. I'm using a few of your ideas in mine. Thanks hope you give us an update soon.
Yup, Maker Faire came and went. It was fantastic. I enjoyed explaining it to a lot of people and had great conversations with people who were knowledgeable both from a biology of the brain point of view and from a programming point of view. I started a fulltime job teaching for BlackBerry QNX (I used to teach for QNX many years ago so I'm really a returnee) and I've slowly been getting back into projects. I've been longing to make another video but without anything new yet, I haven't.
Can I solder a normal 100 kOhm resistor to a 100 kOhm multiturn potentiometer in order to get to 200 kOhm? Can't find a 200 kOhm multiturn potentiometer! My step up booster uses the 204w trimmpot
OMG someone who can actually deliver a How to video without the constant waffling/verbal diarrhea that most seem to be full of.
Excellent delivery and clear concise information just what I have been looking for will be making mine as soon as all the parts arrive from the east.
There's a lot of great videos on this subject, but in my opinion, this is the best one. Thank you for taking the time to record and share your project with all of us who truly appreciate it. You just got another subscriber.
Cheers
So far the best video tutorial on how to Convert ATX Computer Power Supply with USB ports. Very clear and easily understandable even non-techies can do! Keep up the great job!
ive watched a dozen atx ps vids n this is my fav!
no bs and fluff, just straight to the point explaining the process with helpful illustrations along the way. appreciate explaining even the dumber stuff I was confused when starting this project without acting like it's all obvious, thanks.
Great delivery and very resourceful use of mostly on-hand items. I don't think people realize how much work goes into organizing all of this and making it so concise and to the point. The USB portion is well-suited to your purpose. I'll problably end up building something that breaks out 12/5/3.3v, but will steer clear of the USB option. There are just to many viariables of what one might want to power with that. Confined to your purpose it's great.
Yeah, when I made it I thought I'd use the USB option a lot but have ended up using the other outputs more.
Hey, I wanted to say thank you and that I'm quite disappointed to see you haven't uploaded in a while. Six years ago you uploaded a video on how to make a little radio transmitter, I don't know how I ended up finding that video originally but it was one of the first real projects I have ever done and seeing something I made work really inspired me. Since then I've really gotten into DIYing and prototyping, on August 18th I'll be starting university for Engineering. I know that when you created that video 6 years ago you probably didn't realize that it would spark something in some random kid but I wanted to say thank you. I hope all is going well for you and every thing is okay.
It's my pleasure. I'm glad to have given you the inspiration. I know I've appreciated it when others have done the same for me so it's always a pleasure to return the favor.
I haven't uploaded videos because I've taken on a full time job which has me travelling a lot. I still hope to find time to make more videos.
best ATX conversion video ive seen yet
From my family to yours,Merry Christmas and a happy new year!!
Perfect,
Off to the recycling centre to try and get myself a old PC
Cool build. One change I would make is to add a ~2.5A fuser on the 5V line going to the USB board. Without this there is the potential for the full 20A to flow out via the USB port and fry the heck out of whatever is hooked up to it. Remember, USB spec means devices will assume the max they can pull is 500mA, a badly/cheap usb device may rely on the source to cut off past a certain point rather than limit its own current.
Yeah, I agree. Someone else recently pointed out something similar except in that case it was because of the thin wires in the cable I reused for connecting to the USB board -- they might not be able to handle high current. I've been using it to power servo motors, normal USB uses hadn't occurred to me.
Best video I've seen on this ATX conversion- Bravo! Subbed!
What I did is put a panel over the fan hole to hold the binding posts and usb connectors. The power supply is 500 watts. But I'm not asking for more than 75 watts ever. It doesn't need a fan. I think it would still shut down if it got too hot. I use it for charging phones and powering a 10 meter radio. I figured this would work because the machine it was in was only pulling 250 watts and the fan barely turned. The fan went bad. So I recycled.
Excellent video. As others have said, one of, if not the BEST, video on this conversion. All very well explained which is lacking in most other videos.
Great video! To the point and no dragging around like every tutorial video on TH-cam! Keep it up! You just got another subscription!!!
How's that subscription going?
A lot of info here and you kept it moving well. Nicely done.
That would make a great starter general purpose power supply. Adding in voltage and current regulators would really make it great. Also, voltage and current displays could also be added.
I enjoy see you transform things. Greetings from Spain 🇪🇸
I agree, it's always more fun to transform something than to start from scratch. Greetings from Canada.
just remebered why i needed the microwave case :)) thnx for the video . you are right , keep the conections outside of the main case for air flow
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Greetings from South Africa
I took the basics of communication theory!
(Maxwell's equation for an electromagnetic wave derived in a dream)
Nice video. I have a couple of suggestions: 1) Don't solder crimp connectors if you can avoid it. Solder can fracture and break the wires. 2) Connect the feed to the fuse end terminals and the output to the front rings. This is safer if you are holding the fuse as you insert it. Other than that, good job.
Thanks. Good suggestions. I especially like 2. I'm all for preventative things like that.
@@RimstarOrg Actually suggestion 1 came from an Amphenol service bulletin I read while managing a tech shop in the 1980s.
Thorough and really helpful, as always. Thumbs up!
Thanks for the nice video. Could you please do a little more detailed video on the software you used and process for printing the front panel. That looks like it would be very useful skillset to have for making custom boxes and panels etc. Greetings from Macedonia.
This is a truly brilliant job that you have done, I love it & my hat comes off to you sir.Thanks for an excellent video.
Thank you for a video with your voice educating us instead of bullshit music.
Most ATX PSUs have minimum load requirements on one or more of their output voltage rails. If you do not have enough load then they will not regulate properly and one or more rails may be over or under voltage or be unstable or have excessive ripple. Some require a dummy load on 12V, some on 5V and some also need a dummy load on 3.3V. The manufacturers assume they will be connected to a PC mainboard which provides an active (and capacitive) load on each rail. Using it as a bench supply is not what it was designed for and it may not regulate properly unless you meet its min. load requirements. Unfortunately, very few mfrs actually print the minimum load requirements of their PSUs so you have to guess and check the output rails carefully!
Are you there
Grant aka king of random is no more
You and him helped me with the technicalities
Long live the king
Ouch. I hadn't heard. Grant was a great guy. His passing is a loss to all he helped and shared with.
Top Notch video, and you explain like a BOSS !
Nice Video! Greetings from Greece 🇬🇷
Thanks! Greetings from Canada.
Do you think you could have added a potentiometer to some of those 12v wires and created an adjustable voltage for different projects? I think this is perfect for building and testing circuits! Kudos great job!
Best video on this topic!!
Nice little upcycling tutorial! I'm gonna hafta build one of these sometime!
load is required by the power supply to keep the switching transistor stable... a non-zero voltage is require to keep the base current biased - this voltage only occurs when the transistor is supplying current.. thus to remain stable, the transistors need an output load... this carries over to op amps, etc. hope this helps. Anyways, for your application, there is a slight current draw by the USB power board, which is probably enough load to let your particular power supply turn on... might not work for every atx power supply... even the same brand can have some differences due to tolerances of various components. =D
I hope you're well it always worries me to see a TH-camr not posting a video for months
RimstarOrg
1 mês atrás
I miss making all these videos for you. I recently started a new job, one involving teaching (!), and so I've focused on that until I'm up to expert level there. I'll do more videos then.
Merci pour ces excellentes explications .
Je prends note !
Thank you for these excellent explanations.
I take note !
Hello from France !
Very easy to follow, thanks!
Computer power supply for USB? Next, let's use a V12 to power my lawnmower! :-P
In all seriousness, pretty sure the fuse you shown at 6:06 is the mains fuse, which won't do anything if there's a short on the output. In most case, ATX power supplies already have built-in, self-resetting short circuit protection so those fuses on the front serve next to no protection but still pretty nice to have, probably.
And oh, I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about 3V3 feedback wire.
Yes! A V12 to power a lawnmower sounds awesome! :)
Seriously though, for portability I either had to bring batteries (wouldn't last the two days of the Makerfaire and there's no time to recharge), bring my desktop computer (no way I was doing that, and no laptop), or make this. And this will be useful for many more things too.
Regarding the fuses, some places I read said you needed them and others indicated what you're saying. No way I was going to take a chance on that internal fuse blowing at an inconvenient time since it'd be a nightmare to replace. A lot easier to play it safe and have easy to replace fuses.
Re the 3V3 feedback wire, I was aware of it but it just didn't come up in my case. Maybe I should have mentioned it anyway.
RimstarOrg If you do not want the internal fuse to blow, then you should have the external fuses 'set' to a lower amperage. (That way they blow before the internal one(s).)
+RimstarOrg what about the voltage drop across the fuse on the output? It does not seem to affect the raspberry presumably because it has some input tolerances, but I don't know for more sensible electronics
I don't know what the voltage drop is across the fuse but I measured the voltage at the 5-volt binding post and it was 5.24 volts just using the meter so the voltage drop can't have been much.
RimstarOrg whatever happened to lasersaber?
Great job, nice explained. Just a safety comment, at 11:04 you expose your finger with that scalpel knife. I had to receive 3 stiches at my left finger because of that tecnique, 40 years ago. Better, be sure to use some pliers for those wires. Greettings. Nice job.
Like from Russia for the best explaination and for using Blender!
Your videos are the best!
Do not forget to deburr the edges as they can short your cables.
Well done 🥇
Though your video on "Convert ATX/PC Power Supply for USB seems very useful for Common men practically not a Electric/Electronic Circuitry knowledged
It would be more appreciable , if the list of accessories with names and how to determine specific capacities/efficiencies values such as Ampere,Watts,Volts, Wire gauges requirements would have furnished as ready reckoner.
May i expect your Description in detailed way please?
We watched a video you made in class and you said your channel at the end of the video so I wrote it down on my hand so ... hi
Hi. Welcome!
Best video... In this topic
bravo..very detailed one. everything was very neat and clean. I have one query, do we need to use all the red, yellow etc wires. cant we use one wire of each color? wont single wires will deliver the same power ????
Yes, you can use one wire of each color. I'm pretty sure each wire's diameter is rated for the rated available current otherwise it wouldn't work in a computer.
I like your videos
A wonderful and informative video, thanks, love your channel
Loved this video!!
Thanks! Glad to hear it!
Nice video.
Wow! Thank you, you have give me an inspiration.
Just curious. Why not just put a single fuse on the ground wire? Great video. Thanks!
It's possible that what goes wrong is that the insulation on a live wire (the 5V wire for example) goes bad and the copper part of the wire touches the metal case of the device which is plugged in but not necessarily turned on. If that case comes in contact with something which is grounded then there will be a high current electrical path from the live wire to the case and then to ground, not even involving the ground wire. So we put the fuse on the live wire.
It's done the same way with household wiring in North America, except there the question would be why do we put it on the live wire (HOT) and not on the neutral. See my video about What is Ground for diagrams and explanation th-cam.com/video/zLW_7TPf310/w-d-xo.html. It applies to this PC power supply too.
Hello and greetings from Saudi Arabia.
I would thank you for the great videos and the illustration you make it available for your followers and viewers.
I would be appreciated if you could making a video for how to draw a schematic for a vintage tube radio or other vintage tube audio devices for the devices which has no schematics available on the web for buying or downloading so, the user learns how to draw a schematic of his/her vintage device to publish on the vintage electronics forums to help anyone needs to service or restoring the same device to benefit from the schematics made and drawing from the devices directly. Also I will appreciated if you could recommending the software to use in drawing.
Thanks.
Waaaawooo awesome good job sir .
Very nice and interesting idea, indeed. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks!
power supply also have -12V (0.5A)
can work with +12V use by OP AMP
good video~^^b
hello amigo! i think we can also connect a 12v auto bulb in place of that 10watt dummy resistor load, that would be a cheaper alternative to buying a 10 watt resistor?
I don't have a record of how much my resistor cost but I did buy an extra one so it couldn't have been too much, certainly less than $10.
@@RimstarOrgforum.cxem.net/uploads/monthly_2017_01/image067.jpg.2a6ac673a795a8dffb6eee742e14a4c6.jpg
You are rigth. Better a powerfull LED lamp.
Fuses should be added to each DC output . Otherwise an accidental short circuit, or a bad component can ruin the AX power supply which can be very difficult to repair.
Wow so helpful
I would surely die if I attempted to do this. This from a guy who took a class in theoretical electromagnetism at university. 😁
Thanks for mentioning it, i thought you were drilling your fingers.
where have you been missing your videos
it's been exactly 1 year since you've not uploaded. 😭😭
Wow, true enough. I'm actively working on a project but it's still at least a month away from being ready, depending on my work-travel schedule (which can take me away for a week or two at a time). I really want to get a video out before the end of the calendar year.
@@RimstarOrg How about converting an old pc with a 500 power supply into a massive PSU with multiple displays and amperage control knobs? I am designing one in Visio which I started earlier today.
@@RimstarOrg YEESSSS!! HE LIVES!
Hello brother It's a great video. I'm going to do this sometimes I have a little doubt, but in your video you said that the power source that consumes the most power is 12 volts 132 watts. It is necessary to connect the dummy load, but actually in your video per 5 volts 110 watts, so I'm not sure that How should it be connected to be correct? I need help Because I don't have any electronic knowledge.
Good catch! You're right. In my diagram, I show the dummy load connected to the 5V but when I actually test it, I connect it to the 12V like I said I would. I chose the highest power source because it should be able to handle the high load better, so go with the 12V. Connecting it to 5V in the diagram was an error. Thanks!
@@RimstarOrg 👍🤞It's fine. I'm happy. I will make sure that I can connect the circuits properly. Because I don't have basic knowledge in electronics And I am training to learn from videos in TH-cam I thank you very much
Do you need a special potentiometer to use in a 12v 10A to 25A power supply circuit? The sellers rarely give amperage specs on the potentiometer listings. I have a power supply made from a computer PS. I want to make it variable. Seems simple enough. But I do not want to fry my potentiometers or damage other components in the process. I have a bunch of 10k linear pots but I am guessing they might be rated around 3 to 5 A?
Can you please make a Edison Wire recorder? The apparatus with which we can magnetize a copper or steel wire for recording sound. Please do this video
Cool idea! I don't know if I'll do it but it sure sounds like it would be fun.
@@RimstarOrg YES. Please search for Wire Sound Recorder on the internet and you will get a lot details. This was a very basic device which illustrates the basic details of analogue sound recording techniques
Nice job. I hope you noticed you have a mistake on your diagram shown at 6.23?...GND is connected to the 3.3V+ binding post...Hopefully no-one used that diagram to build their project🤣👍🇦🇺
You're right. Thanks for pointing that out. Hopefully they followed the steps I did as I followed the diagram, then they'll notice that I didn't make that connection. I'll see if I can pin your comment to the top or something.
@@RimstarOrg 👍🤣 It was a long time ago you posted this video so hopefully someone would've been in touch by now if they had a 'head scratching moment' Luckily these supplies are pretty well protected, but I can just picture someone wondering 'why does my power supply keep shutting down🤔?'...lol
Nice video! Can i modify the USB port to charge my cellphone?
Thank you.
Thanks! You should be able to charge your cellphone but you should put a 2.5A fuse on the 5V USB wire going to the USB board. This was a good suggestion by Jarrod Coombes here in the comments. I didn't have normal USB applications in mind when I made this -- I use it for powering servo motors. Some normal USB devices assume the current is limited to much lower than it is in this power supply and don't provide their own protection so the fuse should add protection for those devices. You still charge it at your own risk though.
I just remembered that someone else here in the comments suggested using the purple wire for the USB instead. It's 5V and 500mA.
Thanks for your reply
@RimstarOrg
I wish we had a store that carried these parts. Everything has to be ordered in. If you are going to get something shipped you might as well take a chance on a Chinese ebay shop. Ending in substandard devices. Now if someone opened a shop they could not compete with the prices.
Yeah, the tradeoff is expensive parts bought in the stores locally vs a longer wait time/possibly low quality. Sometimes I don't want to wait.
Great game Sir. ......Thank you so much.
nice video. was wondering if the USB is @ 20A. (not that anything usb would pull that).
You can see at 3:29 that the 5V output is rated for 22A, so yes. However, the ribbon cable I reused from the USB circuit board has very thin wires which wouldn't handle even 15A, probably not even 10A. So with suitable wires, and possibly without the circuit board, it should be able to output 20A.
@@RimstarOrg cool thx for the reply im gonna build one. :D
im currently looking for these fuses but all the fuse holders i find are for 250V 10A. can i put any fuse in these fuse holders? like can i put a 30A fuse in a normal holder?
Can I ask u a question in regarding to measure AC and DC current.
I am building a power supply from Microwave transformer. I have a Flute multi meter. It can only measure AC current.
I can check AC current before and After the Transformer.
But after circuit go through bridge rectifier. How can I check DC current ?
Is there a way to mathematically convert AC current to DC current?
Şahane , Teşekkür ederim..
Seriously, what is needed is converting computer power supplies into car battery chargers. Find a way to take the 12 volt output which is usually in the range between 11 volts and 12 volts and is incapable of fully charging a car battery. Please use your knowledge to make the power supply output 14 to 15 volts. For lack of knowledge, I was afraid to put the 3.3 volt output in series with the 12 volt output. If that is not possible, you will have to find a way to amplify (transform) the 12 volts to 14 to 15 volts. Car battery chargers are needed all over the world and adapters from 12 volts to USB can be found in the dollar stores. Please help computer power supplies have a second life as car battery chargers. With your sophistication, I am confident that you can transform this power supply to one that supplies voltages for multiple rechargeable batteries form 1.5 volts to 15 volts. More power to you sir!
Cool Video, where you digital Voltmeter?
I bought it from a local electronics store.
If you're using a supply from an old Dell be sure to double check the wiring. Dell liked to do things their own way and didn't follow standards.
You can buy brackets with 4 usb 2.0 ports from eBay and they cost less than 3$, no point butchering boards. Just search for "usb bracket". Brackets with 2 ports can often be bought for 99 cents or something like that, sometimes even in stores like newegg - and you can probably get some for free at places like Freegeek
Also worth mentioning that cheap power supplies these days are often group regulated, which means there's a main output voltage (typically 12v) and the 5v and 3.3v outputs are regulated based on the 12v load... if there's no significant load on 12v (let's say 20w or more), the 5v output could be quite a bit off, like 4.8v instead of 5v. In your particular case, you're lucky that you have an ancient psu which is designed from the start to output most of its power on 5v.
You should have cut off the wires and connectors and use AWG16 or AWG18 wires for less voltage drop... that psu probably uses AWG20 wires
This was the only use I had to the board. Gradually I'll have stripped everything useful from that old computer and throw what's left away. This way, the USB boards gets to be used again. It's good to know that you can buy them though. I'm sure I'll need more at some point. Thanks.
Regarding the size of the wires in the PSU, they were all 18 AWG. I know that because I used the 18 AWG sized hole on my strippers to strip them.
Can the 5v rail be used as usb charge ports for mobile phones? Or does it have too high amperage?
I would be worried about plugging in a phone, unless I were certain that the phone had sufficient current limiting circuitry.
@7:55 You should of put those rear side flaps into the case. but that is just my opinion and personal taste. :P
Yeah, I agree. It would have looked better.
Why is the USB breakout board required? I would have guessed that you could simply run 5V power from the PSU to the USB connector.
Going directly from the 5V power to my Maestro board would cause the board to error out within 30 seconds or so. I don't know what the error was but I didn't have that problem when I included the USB breakout board. I know there are capacitors and resistors in its circuit for the power lines so possibly some filtering was needed. I couldn't make out the full circuit on the board in order to replicate it with my own components and I couldn't find a good source online. So I just used the board. It was just the Maestro which was sensitive (that I know of), plenty of other things work directly off the 5V directly from the PSU.
Where'd you go? Its been 10 months since you last posted :(
I started a new fulltime job and am only now finding the time to start working on projects again.
Sir, | V=IR, V is directly proportional to i. And, I=Q/T V directly proportional to Q But,from V =W/Q V =1/Q So, V is inversely proportional to charge Q. Sir it is has some contradiction i ask my physics teacher he said time is not constant and Q gets variation.please help me in this
IN potential due to a point charge Derivation V proportional To Q. And in capacitance Q=CV .Same as above proportionality. Sorry sir i still don't understand why V=1/Q.
Well done you know Ohm's law!
@science mode laboratory
- absolutely NOBODY cares whether V=1/Q. You shouldn't concern yourself with it either
PS: This is TH-cam, and that's for watching videos.
*Hi there RimstarOrg* was looking at your video collection and ive been a sub of your since 11yrs ago wow! lol (how to make solar cells). Anyway, hope things are good. I like this well explained video, and might do this myself. Never heard of merrets before and those ring terminals look neat. Can i ask something, how do you regulate the amps? ~ or will it only draw what the device wants? all the best, kieron
Hi kieron, I'm glad to hear you've stuck around all this time. I don't know for certain that this power supply will limit the current to the maximum amount written on the sticker on the power supply. But if the load tries to draw any amount up to what's written then the power supply will give it. So if the sticker says the maximum is 22A and the load tries to draw 5A then the power supply will give it only 5A.
And in case you go shopping for them, merret is spelt marrette, which is actually a brand name but that's what many people call them. A more generic name is twist-on wire connector.
@@RimstarOrg Thank mate, thats cool. Good to know devices will only draw as much as they need hmm... Ive just made a "camper" trailer and put 12vs in it too for lighting and power supply (camera). It means i can just rock up, cook my food and then kip in my car. Here in the UK our cars are tiny lol, thought id share :) Just got back from Wales. Needed it, i like the peace and the quiet of nature.
ibb.co/DpPMS4m
ibb.co/w7kpjhm
ibb.co/gVDb1hN
ibb.co/NpD5Gfv
Keep in mind that I was talking about the specific power supply in this video. A battery would behave similarly. However, some power supplies allow you to limit the current to something below their maximum, called current limiting. Nice job on the trailer.
@@RimstarOrg Thank you. I appreciate it. Have a good one, all the best kieron
can you explain to me the role of the dummy load? I have only 5w2ohm and 5w1ohm are they enough?
I don't think they'll be enough. Even my 10w10ohm resistor got hot enough to cause a little browning of the poster board that it was sitting on. The purpose of the dummy load is to be something that you will look like you are powering something. You could also look for a real load, in other words, power something, perhaps an old incandescent lightbulb.
Does the USB ports need those caps or can I solder the supply directly to the sockets themselves?
It might power some things but not others. I don't know how to determine which. I needed them otherwise my motor controller wouldn't work.
@@RimstarOrg Ahh I'm you. Im sure the 5v out from the supply should be ok?
I've got loose usb sockets with no circuit.
Great.
Hi, Steven! This is Carleigh, and I work with a production company in Texas. Right now, we are trying to recreate your experiment creating lightning in a bottle with a Van De Graaf generator for a show we are working on. We are having trouble recreating your experiment. Would you be okay offering up some advice?
Hi Carleigh. How big is your Van de Graaff generator's dome? That's an indicator of its potential output. The first thing would be to test if your generator is working well. I show a bunch of simple demonstrations you can try here th-cam.com/video/Gf6EbRmYImI/w-d-xo.html. Very humid air is also bad and will reduce the voltage you can get. Also, make sure there are no sharp metal objects within a few feet of the generator since they may bleed off the charge. The spark length is also a good test (like I do near the beginning of the demo video) but is dangerous to do if you have a big generator and don't have access to a safe Earth ground (I wouldn't want you to damage your production equipment).
If the generator seems fine then it may be the bottle. Make sure you use tap water and not distilled water since tap water is more electrically conductive. My bottle was a plastic one with thin walls. I don't know how well a glass bottle will work or one with thick walls. A thick bottom may also make it work less well.
Been watching a lot of videos on this subject and I'm confused about which wire to connect to the dummy load. Some videos suggest adding the 10ohm resistor to the rail with the highest amps, but you suggest the one with the most wattage. I have +3.3V, 22amp on one rail and +12V, 15amp on another. Was thinking of attaching the 10ohm to the +12, 15amp, if it's needed. What do you think?
I'll have to check my notes, I know I got that from a webpage but don't have access to the right computer at the moment (it takes a while to boot up and I have to get going). You want to dissipate power and taking it from the largest source make sense to me. But I'll find that reference for you anyhow this evening.
Thank you
Here's the reference. The stuff on dummy loads is near the bottom.
Where's the reference?
Whoops. pcbsmoke.wordpress.com/2012/11/21/converting-an-atx-power-supply-into-a-dc-bench-supply/
will this work for resistance soldering?
I don't know. As I show in the diagram at around 5:58, the 12V output can handle 10 amps. That's 120 watts (12V x 10 amps = 120 watts). Most soldering tools require less than that. So possibly it would work.
Will it be good enough for tesla coil that you have made?
Hmmm... I hadn't considered using it as the low voltage power supply to feed one of my high voltage power supplies (which then feed the tesla coil). It should work. It would be a fixed voltage into the high voltage power supply but at least I have a selection of 3.3V, 5V, of 12V. The current ratings are even higher than the low voltage power supply that I usually use. Interesting.
@@RimstarOrg Thank you, that was very helpful ,Im low on money so ill just go to my local scrapyard and try my best to find parts that i can use and if it won't work i'll just buy old used psu
whats the amps of USB output? 22A? for cellphone we need 1A or (in max) 2A
at[03:25] label shows the output of this Power Supply and the current for +5v is 22A
i'm sorry for my Bad English
I don't know if the USB board with the connectors on it which I took from the computer has any current limiting so I can't say for sure. If it doesn't then the 22A would be the limit. However, the ribbon cable which I used has very thin wires in it too and so they'd probably melt at 22A. If all your cellphone uses is 1A or 2A then that should work fine. Note that the amp rating isn't how much the current will be output, it's a limit as to how much is available. It's your load, your cellphone, which determines how much current is output.
@@RimstarOrgtanx
I have a question does the raspberry pi 3b+ have a voltage regulator so I could just use a battery?
I've used a power bank normally used for charging phones. A quick search shows that using battery directly is a bad idea though there are some options still. Here's a random webpage that goes through the options along with the dangers www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/battery-power-your-pi
@@RimstarOrg the TH-camr great Scott made a video where he build a console and he used batteries
th-cam.com/video/_MtN_s4tVK0/w-d-xo.html
That's the video
Notice he pointed out that the Pi Zero that he used has a DC-DC converter on it, the PAM2306. He also added more battery management circuitry to automatically switch off the power if the battery voltage goes too low.
@@RimstarOrg ok
Hi sir which software use to edited videos
I use Sony Vegas Movie Studio Platinum 11 (a pretty old version) but I they've since been bought by Magix www.vegascreativesoftware.com/us/
hi .so , on the usb / mir port, i read 16amps per port .my +5v is rated at 30amps .before i burn my phone, can i have a recomandation ? my other on-hand-two options another 4 usb port, wich gives out 500mAps .. wich is low , and the last, recycle the converter from an old car charger and stickit to the 12v line. thnx for the videos
Yeah, for normal usb uses, the current will be too high, as you measured. I use it for powering servo motors, not the usual application. The only thing I can suggest is to put a low current fuse to protect your phone. Your converter idea might be the way to go.
Did you get locked up. Where's the new content. Hasn't Makers Fair come and gone. Did you Take part in it. Hope you are ok Great video. I'm using a few of your ideas in mine. Thanks hope you give us an update soon.
Yup, Maker Faire came and went. It was fantastic. I enjoyed explaining it to a lot of people and had great conversations with people who were knowledgeable both from a biology of the brain point of view and from a programming point of view. I started a fulltime job teaching for BlackBerry QNX (I used to teach for QNX many years ago so I'm really a returnee) and I've slowly been getting back into projects. I've been longing to make another video but without anything new yet, I haven't.
Would it be possible to make a voltage multiplier at home?
Sure, I've done it here rimstar.org/equip/negative_voltage_multiplier.htm and here rimstar.org/equip/pos_neg_voltage_multiplier.htm.
@@RimstarOrg Sorry my mistake. I have a bad memory.
Awsome
Do you also have a web site
Yes. My website is rimstar.org. The Science and Electronics Projects section would be most relevant to this TH-cam channel.
Can I solder a normal 100 kOhm resistor to a 100 kOhm multiturn potentiometer in order to get to 200 kOhm? Can't find a 200 kOhm multiturn potentiometer! My step up booster uses the 204w trimmpot
Yes, you can. Keep in mind that the range for the combined resistors will be 100 kOhm to 200 kOhm.
@@RimstarOrg Then I have to connect 2 potentiometers in series.
Yes, 2 potentiometers in series should work.