@@ToughMonkeyI just wondered if you had put your sim rig and sim racing gear in there. As I was looking to that.. And with me having a motion rig, just trying to figure out how all of this would work, yknow electronics etc and like you said having it insulated. I'm seriously thing about going down this route. And how waterproofed it is.... Would love a more detailed video on how you got the electrics to the shed and fittings within. Well here's to hoping... and cheers bud a great video 😊
@@JuiceSkyy there will be more videos coming up shortly, but temporarily at least the shed has become home to my sim rig and studio. It will ultimately go into the workshop that can be seen in the background of the video but it needs a new roof going on next year, so until then the sim rig is in the shed. The shed is connected to the ring mains for electricity. I dug a trench out and connected it up to the consumer unit in the workshop so it can be isolated off its own fuse. It’s close enough to the house to be picking up 200mb+ of WiFi but I’ve also got a power line adapter for ethernet connection too. It’s got its own Echo dot with attached Philips Hue lighting so it’s got music and lighting on voice control, and it’s connected to the existing security system for the house with several IP cameras covering it internally and externally. The shed has proven itself to be totally watertight from rain and the recent named storm that came through, and the double skin nature of the plastic panels gives it a degree of insulation even without further improvement. We’ve not reached winter temperatures yet, only getting down to around 2 degrees centigrade, but it was perfectly habitable there so I’m interested to see how it gets on at sub zero temperatures. As a minimum though I would recommend improving the floor insulation as the cold does transfer from the ground through the panels. A timber frame, similar to that which I put on the walls, then a 25mm (Or 50mm if you’re happy to have a larger step up into the shed) insulation board within that frame, and then weatherboard chipboard panels to create a flat surface works a treat. As it stands, even in its current temporary state, it’s really quite cosy.
@@ToughMonkey Great stuff , looking forward to the winter update videos. And the information that you have given so far... good work fella .. your awesome
It’s been a few months since I made that video and it’s stood up to one major storm in early December and -10 degrees C this last weekend and has been a very comfortable home to firstly a Scalextric set and for the last three months my sim racing gear. Sometimes you’ll get Post Purchase Trauma and realise you’ve made a mistake, but this has gone down as a very good purchase.
As a guy of British ancestry born in California, I've just got to say that the funny Still of you at 6:05 is virtually like looking at myself in the Shaving Mirror ! Thanks for the good info . . . 😺😺😺
I've just built the ashwood 9x7, I left the perspex out of the front section and fitted it after the shed was completed, it was easier to handle that section on my own.
Very carefully! They're screwed to the wall panels but you need to be careful as the wall panels are not very thick. They're a cavity panel which is great for weight saving and insulation, but you have to be cautious with attaching things to them. I looked into what screws to use quite closely as I wanted to firstly get a secure hold but also not to project too deeply and pierce the out skin. I paid attention to the screw that came with the shed and how much they projected beyond whatever item it was they were attaching and made sure the screws projected a similar length beyond the wooden frame. In my case I used 4x45 screws. And after some consideration I used standard Multi-Purpose screws from Wickes. Single thread, zinc plated, pozi countersunk. It gains rigidity as you add the cross braces as that helps to provide a lateral force, almost wedging it between the shed's standard metal frame. And it’s worked brilliantly. Everything is firmly fixed and going nowhere. Obviously it'll have it's limitations and I would suggest mounting excessively heavy items, but nothing I've mounted so far has suggested it's likely to fail.
Thank you. It’s a great deal from Costco. I’d waited and waited for the next offer on one of these sheds from them but I couldn’t wait any longer so lost out a little, but it’s such a great structure I’m still happy at the price I paid. It’s currently got a Scalextric set in it for a couple of weeks. Hope it all goes well for you with the build.
@@gremlin2288 Well done. Yeah, there were an awful lot of screws. That’s what seemed to take the time up. The main structure of the base and wall panels went up really quickly, but it was all the fine details that made up the time. Hope it serves you well for many years to come.
Before I insulated the floor I found that the plastic base would get condensation, sitting on the cold paving slabs. I expected to get condensation on the ceiling and the doors, but so far I’ve not experienced that. The wall panels are excellent and have not had any issues either. I think it’s probably down to the floor panels being a solid plastic base, while the doors, ceiling and walls are a twin skin construction with a small cavity. Without heating it’s still going to get cold in there. I have a thermostatically controlled heater in there. If I don’t have that on the indoor temp will follow the outdoor temps up and down over time.
I’m in the middle of erecting mine at the moment. I’m a little concerned now that my tiled hard standing may not be up to standard. I just put the base down and it doesn’t appear too bad but once the walls are up I’m sure I’ll see it’s all out of kilter. I’m very impressed with how you have battened it all out. I would love to see more info on how that process went. I’m directly on the coast so I think more strength may be required
The area that I placed the shed had a fall towards the fence line and I tried to keep a little gradient. However I was aware that the rear right hand side from the door didn’t quite maintain the same gradient. Not by much, but I expected it might cause an issue. The sole problem it cause me was that the L-shaped corner piece stood proud by about 10mm. Everything else evened itself out through tolerances, but the corner bit was sticking out a little. I needed to take a hacksaw blade to that to level it off. Other than that everything else went up well. Like I said on the video, it’s just the door which I feel lets it down a little as there’s not much scope to adjust for level differences other than to shim underneath. The frame thing has turned out to be a great idea as I’ve already used the timbers for various mounting purposes. Since I did the video I had a Scalextric set in there for a few weeks and now I’ve got my sim rig and TH-cam studio set up in there temporarily until I get a new roof on my brick workshop. It’s been up a few months now and I’ve been really happy with it.
@@ToughMonkey thanks for the reply. Weather has stopped play today, and tomorrow morning doesn’t look too promising. The levels don’t seem too bad at the moment but I haven’t got the roof and doors on yet! I’ll let you know how I get on. I’m definitely going to put the framing in though; great idea 💡
I created a ring from the workshop’s consumer unit so it has its own breaker, fed from the house with armoured cable, trenched the cable to right hand side of the Keter shed, brought it up out of the ground into an external junction box mounted on the side of the shed. I cored a hole through the wall of the shed into another external junction box on the inside. Double-sealed the boxes once located. From the internal box the ring continues to feed all of the sockets. I took a spur for the lighting rather than have a specific lighting ring as it would have been getting tight inside the junction.
@ if I remember correctly I used the smallest spade bit I had in my Bosch bit set which is 16mm. Could have used a bit smaller but didn’t have one readily available. The hole is obscured now by the junction boxes either side. I drilled a small pilot hole through from one side which I’d measured accurately so the junction boxes would fit snug against the timber frame I’d put in, then cored back the other way with the spade bit. It worked very well. I used Wago connectors inside the junction boxes for ease of installation and servicing.
A bit difficult to give a comprehensive answer to that as I built it on the 11th of August this year and we didn’t really have much of a warm end of summer after this. It was hot the weekend I built it but it was never truly hot after I’d finished kitting it out. It was perfectly fine during what remaining summer we had though. It’s a dual skin wall so it acts a little like a cavity wall in your house.
Nice and Clean I've been looking at these but was worried about side wall stability but you solved that problem with the added timber. Is the timber screwed from inside or outside in?
The walls are pretty sturdy without the timber frame I put in. It all starts to come together as a composite structure when you begin putting the roof components on. There are a number of steel columns that create its own frame, and steel beams across the roof structure the brace and give the whole thing rigidity. The wall panels are a cellular structure, with a small cavity in between an inner and outer layer of the plastic, so lightweight but strong. I added the timber frame more to give me options going forward. The biggest downside with the plastic material is the inability to screw heavy items to it. So, mounting tools or hanging a bicycle for example isn’t easy. The frame allows me to mount things, plus create a cavity to install insulation. Although it’s been purchased as a tool shed there is a possibility of it become a more permanent home for something else entirely and having it dry and warm would be advantageous. The timbers were screwed from inside. I used 45mm screws with those timbers, first drilling a countersink. I analysed the screws that came with the shed and worked out how much they must project into the plastic panels and figured if they can be used without risking piercing the outer skin then this combination of 45mm screw and timber would be safe as it was the same overall length.
I wasn’t aware of the Penthouse version until you mentioned it. I can see it on a website called Keter Lifestyle but not any of their usual websites. By the looks of it it seems to be very similar but I don’t see any instructions available to look at. As for the Cortina, Artisan and Signature someone did comment previously that one has a stronger frame however I can’t see any evidence of that. When I did this video I downloaded and reviewed all three assembly instructions and with the exception of a a couple of pages where the wall panels go in (Artisan’s are vertical panels, Cortina and Signature are horizontal) there appeared to be no difference between the three.
I see you framed out the inside and you mentioned that the instructions for the different Keter Pent sheds are similar, however the signature Walnut Shed has a stronger frame inside. Did you know that when you made this video? Would you still have framed out the signature shed if you purchased it? Keter's imagery and videos for products are terrible for online purchasers so I find these videos very useful.
I didn’t know there was any difference in strength. I downloaded the instructions for all three when I was researching the video and other than a few pages covering the horizontal panels rather than the vertical panels in the Artisan they appear to be exactly the same. However, it wouldn’t have made any difference to me framing it out as I did that not because of the strength of the building but to give me option for wall ,punting things. The thickness of the wall panels limits what you can attach so the timber frame allows me to mount quite heavy items, plus insulate and line it. It’s a great structure. I spend a lot of time in it as it’s the home to my sim rig and green-screen studio.
Thank you. I looked into what screws to use quite closely as I wanted to firstly get a secure hold but also not project too deeply that I pierced the out skin. I paid attention to the screw that came with the shed and how much they projected beyond whatever it was they were attaching and made sure the length of my screws project no further beyond the wooden frame. In my car I used 4x45 screws. And after some consideration I used standard Multi-Purpose screws from Wickes. Single thread, zinc plated, pozi countersunk. And it’s worked brilliantly. Everything is firmly fixed and going nowhere.
You can indeed paint it. I considered it myself for a while but painting would become a maintenance item, and it’s difficult to find the correct paint. I think it was a waterproof acrylic it needs.
Impressive build! Looks sharp too. Can't wait to see what goes in it.
I’m very much looking forward to it as well, and making plenty of videos about it too!
@@ToughMonkeyI just wondered if you had put your sim rig and sim racing gear in there. As I was looking to that.. And with me having a motion rig, just trying to figure out how all of this would work, yknow electronics etc and like you said having it insulated.
I'm seriously thing about going down this route. And how waterproofed it is....
Would love a more detailed video on how you got the electrics to the shed and fittings within.
Well here's to hoping... and cheers bud a great video 😊
@@JuiceSkyy there will be more videos coming up shortly, but temporarily at least the shed has become home to my sim rig and studio. It will ultimately go into the workshop that can be seen in the background of the video but it needs a new roof going on next year, so until then the sim rig is in the shed. The shed is connected to the ring mains for electricity. I dug a trench out and connected it up to the consumer unit in the workshop so it can be isolated off its own fuse. It’s close enough to the house to be picking up 200mb+ of WiFi but I’ve also got a power line adapter for ethernet connection too. It’s got its own Echo dot with attached Philips Hue lighting so it’s got music and lighting on voice control, and it’s connected to the existing security system for the house with several IP cameras covering it internally and externally.
The shed has proven itself to be totally watertight from rain and the recent named storm that came through, and the double skin nature of the plastic panels gives it a degree of insulation even without further improvement. We’ve not reached winter temperatures yet, only getting down to around 2 degrees centigrade, but it was perfectly habitable there so I’m interested to see how it gets on at sub zero temperatures. As a minimum though I would recommend improving the floor insulation as the cold does transfer from the ground through the panels. A timber frame, similar to that which I put on the walls, then a 25mm (Or 50mm if you’re happy to have a larger step up into the shed) insulation board within that frame, and then weatherboard chipboard panels to create a flat surface works a treat.
As it stands, even in its current temporary state, it’s really quite cosy.
@@ToughMonkey Great stuff , looking forward to the winter update videos. And the information that you have given so far... good work fella .. your awesome
I love this guy's obsession and dedication to sheds. Great video monkey, good tips too, Keter shed ordered.
It’s been a few months since I made that video and it’s stood up to one major storm in early December and -10 degrees C this last weekend and has been a very comfortable home to firstly a Scalextric set and for the last three months my sim racing gear. Sometimes you’ll get Post Purchase Trauma and realise you’ve made a mistake, but this has gone down as a very good purchase.
As a guy of British ancestry born in California, I've just got to say that the funny Still of you at 6:05 is virtually like looking at myself in the Shaving Mirror ! Thanks for the good info . . . 😺😺😺
I've just built the ashwood 9x7, I left the perspex out of the front section and fitted it after the shed was completed, it was easier to handle that section on my own.
Nice! How did you attached the inner wood frame to the walls?
Very carefully! They're screwed to the wall panels but you need to be careful as the wall panels are not very thick. They're a cavity panel which is great for weight saving and insulation, but you have to be cautious with attaching things to them. I looked into what screws to use quite closely as I wanted to firstly get a secure hold but also not to project too deeply and pierce the out skin. I paid attention to the screw that came with the shed and how much they projected beyond whatever item it was they were attaching and made sure the screws projected a similar length beyond the wooden frame. In my case I used 4x45 screws. And after some consideration I used standard Multi-Purpose screws from Wickes. Single thread, zinc plated, pozi countersunk. It gains rigidity as you add the cross braces as that helps to provide a lateral force, almost wedging it between the shed's standard metal frame. And it’s worked brilliantly. Everything is firmly fixed and going nowhere. Obviously it'll have it's limitations and I would suggest mounting excessively heavy items, but nothing I've mounted so far has suggested it's likely to fail.
Just got the Cortina from Costco 11x7 £1099 putting it together in the moring. Great vid.............👍
Thank you. It’s a great deal from Costco. I’d waited and waited for the next offer on one of these sheds from them but I couldn’t wait any longer so lost out a little, but it’s such a great structure I’m still happy at the price I paid. It’s currently got a Scalextric set in it for a couple of weeks. Hope it all goes well for you with the build.
@@ToughMonkey Finnished erecting now, How many screws! took around 6 hours but definatly a great structure.
@@gremlin2288 Well done. Yeah, there were an awful lot of screws. That’s what seemed to take the time up. The main structure of the base and wall panels went up really quickly, but it was all the fine details that made up the time. Hope it serves you well for many years to come.
Great video! Do you notice much condensation inside the shed, especially during colder or damp weather
Before I insulated the floor I found that the plastic base would get condensation, sitting on the cold paving slabs. I expected to get condensation on the ceiling and the doors, but so far I’ve not experienced that. The wall panels are excellent and have not had any issues either. I think it’s probably down to the floor panels being a solid plastic base, while the doors, ceiling and walls are a twin skin construction with a small cavity.
Without heating it’s still going to get cold in there. I have a thermostatically controlled heater in there. If I don’t have that on the indoor temp will follow the outdoor temps up and down over time.
I’m in the middle of erecting mine at the moment. I’m a little concerned now that my tiled hard standing may not be up to standard. I just put the base down and it doesn’t appear too bad but once the walls are up I’m sure I’ll see it’s all out of kilter.
I’m very impressed with how you have battened it all out. I would love to see more info on how that process went. I’m directly on the coast so I think more strength may be required
The area that I placed the shed had a fall towards the fence line and I tried to keep a little gradient. However I was aware that the rear right hand side from the door didn’t quite maintain the same gradient. Not by much, but I expected it might cause an issue. The sole problem it cause me was that the L-shaped corner piece stood proud by about 10mm. Everything else evened itself out through tolerances, but the corner bit was sticking out a little. I needed to take a hacksaw blade to that to level it off. Other than that everything else went up well. Like I said on the video, it’s just the door which I feel lets it down a little as there’s not much scope to adjust for level differences other than to shim underneath.
The frame thing has turned out to be a great idea as I’ve already used the timbers for various mounting purposes. Since I did the video I had a Scalextric set in there for a few weeks and now I’ve got my sim rig and TH-cam studio set up in there temporarily until I get a new roof on my brick workshop.
It’s been up a few months now and I’ve been really happy with it.
@@ToughMonkey thanks for the reply. Weather has stopped play today, and tomorrow morning doesn’t look too promising. The levels don’t seem too bad at the moment but I haven’t got the roof and doors on yet!
I’ll let you know how I get on.
I’m definitely going to put the framing in though; great idea 💡
Hi. How did you pull the electrical plug inside the shed?
I created a ring from the workshop’s consumer unit so it has its own breaker, fed from the house with armoured cable, trenched the cable to right hand side of the Keter shed, brought it up out of the ground into an external junction box mounted on the side of the shed. I cored a hole through the wall of the shed into another external junction box on the inside. Double-sealed the boxes once located. From the internal box the ring continues to feed all of the sockets. I took a spur for the lighting rather than have a specific lighting ring as it would have been getting tight inside the junction.
👍🏻 How bit of a hole did you drill, if you have a picture of the hole pls share it.
@ if I remember correctly I used the smallest spade bit I had in my Bosch bit set which is 16mm. Could have used a bit smaller but didn’t have one readily available. The hole is obscured now by the junction boxes either side. I drilled a small pilot hole through from one side which I’d measured accurately so the junction boxes would fit snug against the timber frame I’d put in, then cored back the other way with the spade bit. It worked very well. I used Wago connectors inside the junction boxes for ease of installation and servicing.
looks nice .. just one question - could you please describe me how hot it is inside during the summer?
A bit difficult to give a comprehensive answer to that as I built it on the 11th of August this year and we didn’t really have much of a warm end of summer after this. It was hot the weekend I built it but it was never truly hot after I’d finished kitting it out.
It was perfectly fine during what remaining summer we had though. It’s a dual skin wall so it acts a little like a cavity wall in your house.
Nice and Clean I've been looking at these but was worried about side wall stability but you solved that problem with the added timber. Is the timber screwed from inside or outside in?
The walls are pretty sturdy without the timber frame I put in. It all starts to come together as a composite structure when you begin putting the roof components on. There are a number of steel columns that create its own frame, and steel beams across the roof structure the brace and give the whole thing rigidity.
The wall panels are a cellular structure, with a small cavity in between an inner and outer layer of the plastic, so lightweight but strong.
I added the timber frame more to give me options going forward. The biggest downside with the plastic material is the inability to screw heavy items to it. So, mounting tools or hanging a bicycle for example isn’t easy. The frame allows me to mount things, plus create a cavity to install insulation. Although it’s been purchased as a tool shed there is a possibility of it become a more permanent home for something else entirely and having it dry and warm would be advantageous.
The timbers were screwed from inside. I used 45mm screws with those timbers, first drilling a countersink. I analysed the screws that came with the shed and worked out how much they must project into the plastic panels and figured if they can be used without risking piercing the outer skin then this combination of 45mm screw and timber would be safe as it was the same overall length.
Cortina, Artisan, Signature, Penthouse. Is there any difference except design?
I wasn’t aware of the Penthouse version until you mentioned it. I can see it on a website called Keter Lifestyle but not any of their usual websites. By the looks of it it seems to be very similar but I don’t see any instructions available to look at. As for the Cortina, Artisan and Signature someone did comment previously that one has a stronger frame however I can’t see any evidence of that. When I did this video I downloaded and reviewed all three assembly instructions and with the exception of a a couple of pages where the wall panels go in (Artisan’s are vertical panels, Cortina and Signature are horizontal) there appeared to be no difference between the three.
I see you framed out the inside and you mentioned that the instructions for the different Keter Pent sheds are similar, however the signature Walnut Shed has a stronger frame inside. Did you know that when you made this video? Would you still have framed out the signature shed if you purchased it? Keter's imagery and videos for products are terrible for online purchasers so I find these videos very useful.
I didn’t know there was any difference in strength. I downloaded the instructions for all three when I was researching the video and other than a few pages covering the horizontal panels rather than the vertical panels in the Artisan they appear to be exactly the same. However, it wouldn’t have made any difference to me framing it out as I did that not because of the strength of the building but to give me option for wall ,punting things. The thickness of the wall panels limits what you can attach so the timber frame allows me to mount quite heavy items, plus insulate and line it.
It’s a great structure. I spend a lot of time in it as it’s the home to my sim rig and green-screen studio.
Awesome build ! I love the framing you put in - standard screws work ok in the plastic/resin walls?
Thank you. I looked into what screws to use quite closely as I wanted to firstly get a secure hold but also not project too deeply that I pierced the out skin. I paid attention to the screw that came with the shed and how much they projected beyond whatever it was they were attaching and made sure the length of my screws project no further beyond the wooden frame. In my car I used 4x45 screws. And after some consideration I used standard Multi-Purpose screws from Wickes. Single thread, zinc plated, pozi countersunk. And it’s worked brilliantly. Everything is firmly fixed and going nowhere.
and if you don't like the colour, well you can paint it...Keter say the Artisan is fully paintable...
You can indeed paint it. I considered it myself for a while but painting would become a maintenance item, and it’s difficult to find the correct paint. I think it was a waterproof acrylic it needs.
Interesting :D I've just paid £109 for a keter Cortina 11x7 Storage Shed, deep down I think it's gonna be a scam LOL 🤦♂
£109? If it turns out not to be a scam then let me know as I’ll happily buy another one at that price!
That little shed weighed 1700 pounds?
Ohhhh...