Attention! I did the same as in the video. The inner part flew through the entire room and fortunately didn't hit anyone. The air also went out completely.
Thank you for this video, may i ask you some questions please, should I degas the gun if I want to reduce the reg pressure? can I shoot this gun at 6 ft/lb without damaging it or fail to recycle to next round ? if I cant then what is the minimum energy I can shoot with ?
You do not need to degas to lower the regulated pressure. After you reduce then tension on the 5MM Allen screw, you would just dry fire and watch the regulator needle on the receiver drop down. Continue adjusting this way until you get to the reduced working/regulated pressure that you target. Yes, the K1 will shoot at 6 FPE with proper cycling and no damage to the K1 internals. The Huben manual notes 6 FPE as the bottom level of power adjustment under changeable power setting on the specifications page.
Yes, it is not caused by too many clicks or the amount of working pressure MPa... it happens when the small flat metal spring at the top of the trigger arm (part #35) sticks or hangs in the forward position against (part #36) the sear catch/release arm.
@KRAZ Cool Air Pistolets LLC Hello, I did this manipulation twice on the same day with my huben k1, the first time it worked and the second time, as soon as the two screws removed the spring and the plastic washer came out of their housing than my huben s is emptied completely in air. Now I can no longer put the cover back because the plastic washer no longer fits in its housing, it protrudes by 3 good millimeters, also the barrel turns, it is no longer retained. Can you help me knowing that I am in France. Cordially
Firstly - Part #6 that you are referencing as the plastic washer is not inserting all the into the back of the receiver because when you fired it with the back cover off or loose the striker (part #8) moved behind the sear. You need to first get the striker back forward in the ready to fire position - so do this by taking off safety, holding the trigger in the fire or pulled position and then pushing with allen key or small rod in the hollow back cavity of the striker gently until it "clicks" back forward and now the safety should return to the down and on safe position. Now that this is back in it's proper position, the #8 O-Ring will insert at the proper depth to allow the back cover to be prooperly reassembled including the return spring #9. The issue you note about the barrel being loose and turning can be corrected by first turning the barrel in or screwing it back into part #64 until it barely touches the magazine and then backing it out verly slightly for proper rotation clearance but not so far that air blasts out the sides when firing. Once in the proper position relative to the magazine, you would then tighten the barrel retain nut #62.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 Hello, thank you very much for your precious help. In addition, you used such clear language that with the google translation your message was not distorted and I was therefore able to carry out the repair easily. Again thanks to you. For information on my breakdown, I realized after your message that the screw holding the safety lever was unscrewed by at least 3 turns (whereas before the breakdown, the screw was tight) and the lever allowing to unlock the cylinder was loose (so the cylinder was not blocked) and those even after having carried out the repair. It was when I reloaded the Huben that I heard a click which obviously put the barrel lever back in place since now everything works normally on it. Cordialy
Hi. I was wondering if you have any advice. Not many people in my country who can help. I stupidly shot my huben off the reg below 100 and the safety jammed. I tried this but it wouldn't work. Read here that the air was empty so I turned my reg down to zero and the safety re-engaged. Now that works. But it will not fill. As I turn up the reg pressure it just bleeds out the back. I got advice that I needed to raise the power wheel setting(12 clocks down from full power on the wheel). I've tried that with no luck. Any advice? Thank you!
Jonathan - the first step that I would advise given your description of the issue would be to fully close the power adjustment wheel by turning it clockwise with the wheel facing you. Next, open the wheel while counting to 10 clicks open from fully closed. This would be a lower power setting and a setting that the air valve would cycle closed very quickly and exhaust only a small amount of air. If the safety is returning to the down or safety on position, this should indicate that the striker is in the forward position on the trigger arm or sear. If the air continues to vent out while attempting to fill, then you need to determine the location that the air is escaping. A couple of possibilities would be at the top of the regulator housing where the stem passes through which is covered by the cheek piece. If it is leaking at the top of the regulator housing, then it's likely that the seal #77 will need to be replaced.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 wow thank you so much for the reply. Sorry i didn't reply. Didn't have youtube as an app for some time so i didn't get the notification of reply. Trawling the net again for answers. Turns out the leaking while adding pressure into the reg was just coming from the reg indicator... just had to apply pressure to the indicator while turning up the reg pressure and presto it worked! But I've had a huge issue of the mag just not turning between shots. Have you ever seen this? Typically it requires me to take out the mag lever assembly and reset that spring, which is now a bit soft. Perhaps i need a new spring. But basically the gun is not jamming. I'm not getting slugs squashed i.e miscycle. The mag just doesn't turn. Sometimes dropping the pressure down in the reg and then re-applying pressure works (but then i have to retune). But I'm almost never able to shoot a full mag without having to lift the mag lever and rotate for a few shots. Unfortunately I've now lifted that lever so many times that yesterday it snapped. Could a weak mag lever spring cause this?
Yes, in this situation the air valve has stuck open because the shooting continued below the minimum working pressure of 10 MPa or 100 bar. The working pressure was too low to reset and the remaining air in the reservoir emptied as the valve stuck open.
Make sure you are holding the trigger back in fire position while you are pushing the striker forward with the safety off. If you push right it the center while holding the trigger pulled, it should allow it to move forward over the sear.
your vids are a religion for me. Many thanks
Excellent thanks for the info!!!
Danger 😱
Good info.
Love my K1
Great tip.👍
Attention! I did the same as in the video. The inner part flew through the entire room and fortunately didn't hit anyone. The air also went out completely.
Thank you for this video, may i ask you some questions please, should I degas the gun if I want to reduce the reg pressure?
can I shoot this gun at 6 ft/lb without damaging it or fail to recycle to next round ? if I cant then what is the minimum energy I can shoot with ?
You do not need to degas to lower the regulated pressure. After you reduce then tension on the 5MM Allen screw, you would just dry fire and watch the regulator needle on the receiver drop down. Continue adjusting this way until you get to the reduced working/regulated pressure that you target. Yes, the K1 will shoot at 6 FPE with proper cycling and no damage to the K1 internals. The Huben manual notes 6 FPE as the bottom level of power adjustment under changeable power setting on the specifications page.
Good to know.
Hello thank you for your solution!
It's great, but do you know why it happens that it blocks?
Too many clicks and not enough pressure/mpa?
Sincerely
Yes, it is not caused by too many clicks or the amount of working pressure MPa... it happens when the small flat metal spring at the top of the trigger arm (part #35) sticks or hangs in the forward position against (part #36) the sear catch/release arm.
@KRAZ Cool Air Pistolets LLC Hello, I did this manipulation twice on the same day with my huben k1, the first time it worked and the second time, as soon as the two screws removed the spring and the plastic washer came out of their housing than my huben s is emptied completely in air. Now I can no longer put the cover back because the plastic washer no longer fits in its housing, it protrudes by 3 good millimeters, also the barrel turns, it is no longer retained.
Can you help me knowing that I am in France.
Cordially
Firstly - Part #6 that you are referencing as the plastic washer is not inserting all the into the back of the receiver because when you fired it with the back cover off or loose the striker (part #8) moved behind the sear. You need to first get the striker back forward in the ready to fire position - so do this by taking off safety, holding the trigger in the fire or pulled position and then pushing with allen key or small rod in the hollow back cavity of the striker gently until it "clicks" back forward and now the safety should return to the down and on safe position. Now that this is back in it's proper position, the #8 O-Ring will insert at the proper depth to allow the back cover to be prooperly reassembled including the return spring #9. The issue you note about the barrel being loose and turning can be corrected by first turning the barrel in or screwing it back into part #64 until it barely touches the magazine and then backing it out verly slightly for proper rotation clearance but not so far that air blasts out the sides when firing. Once in the proper position relative to the magazine, you would then tighten the barrel retain nut #62.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 Hello, thank you very much for your precious help.
In addition, you used such clear language that with the google translation your message was not distorted and I was therefore able to carry out the repair easily.
Again thanks to you.
For information on my breakdown, I realized after your message that the screw holding the safety lever was unscrewed by at least 3 turns (whereas before the breakdown, the screw was tight) and the lever allowing to unlock the cylinder was loose (so the cylinder was not blocked) and those even after having carried out the repair. It was when I reloaded the Huben that I heard a click which obviously put the barrel lever back in place since now everything works normally on it. Cordialy
Hi. I was wondering if you have any advice. Not many people in my country who can help. I stupidly shot my huben off the reg below 100 and the safety jammed. I tried this but it wouldn't work. Read here that the air was empty so I turned my reg down to zero and the safety re-engaged. Now that works. But it will not fill. As I turn up the reg pressure it just bleeds out the back. I got advice that I needed to raise the power wheel setting(12 clocks down from full power on the wheel). I've tried that with no luck. Any advice? Thank you!
Jonathan - the first step that I would advise given your description of the issue would be to fully close the power adjustment wheel by turning it clockwise with the wheel facing you. Next, open the wheel while counting to 10 clicks open from fully closed. This would be a lower power setting and a setting that the air valve would cycle closed very quickly and exhaust only a small amount of air. If the safety is returning to the down or safety on position, this should indicate that the striker is in the forward position on the trigger arm or sear. If the air continues to vent out while attempting to fill, then you need to determine the location that the air is escaping. A couple of possibilities would be at the top of the regulator housing where the stem passes through which is covered by the cheek piece. If it is leaking at the top of the regulator housing, then it's likely that the seal #77 will need to be replaced.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 wow thank you so much for the reply. Sorry i didn't reply. Didn't have youtube as an app for some time so i didn't get the notification of reply. Trawling the net again for answers. Turns out the leaking while adding pressure into the reg was just coming from the reg indicator... just had to apply pressure to the indicator while turning up the reg pressure and presto it worked! But I've had a huge issue of the mag just not turning between shots. Have you ever seen this? Typically it requires me to take out the mag lever assembly and reset that spring, which is now a bit soft. Perhaps i need a new spring. But basically the gun is not jamming. I'm not getting slugs squashed i.e miscycle. The mag just doesn't turn. Sometimes dropping the pressure down in the reg and then re-applying pressure works (but then i have to retune). But I'm almost never able to shoot a full mag without having to lift the mag lever and rotate for a few shots. Unfortunately I've now lifted that lever so many times that yesterday it snapped. Could a weak mag lever spring cause this?
Will that work with the GK1?
😃👍👏👏👏👏
Hi, did you empty the air first?
Yes, in this situation the air valve has stuck open because the shooting continued below the minimum working pressure of 10 MPa or 100 bar. The working pressure was too low to reset and the remaining air in the reservoir emptied as the valve stuck open.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 : Yep, that's what I thought....
@@billdesmet3929 Did you have a follow up question?
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 I am dead serious, research is complete... But you're not open till 6pm.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 : Thank You for the purchase of the baddest air gun around... You are the man KELLY
5 STAR 🌟
My huben does the same even at 150 bars
Nothing is moving when I'm trying to push it in😢
Make sure you are holding the trigger back in fire position while you are pushing the striker forward with the safety off. If you push right it the center while holding the trigger pulled, it should allow it to move forward over the sear.
@@krazcoolairgunsllc7065 it worked thank you! At first I was shy to push hard enough with a steel allen key but with an aluminum rod it worked
Is that my gun?
Did you purchase one from me or send one in for repair?