AG thank you for all your support and information. I successfully broke in my SBC 383 Howard’s flat tappet cam in today. I don’t believe I would have been able to do that without the information you provided.
Hey, thanks for the mention on this video, I almost fell off my chair!! I was suprised to see that nobody had already mentioned your beautiful yard! Myself, I live in a park here in BC, but it is an INDUSTRIAL park🥲
Idk how you dont have more subscribers. Thank you for the wisdom, I"m just a shade tree mechanic but i love sharing knowledge about cars and how they work. TANK YOU!
That's great you used those lifters. I have a set, an was about to sell them. Since this video, I'm going to save them for a 327 project. It will be higher RPM than my 350 cruiser. Man, love your videos...
I use gm 602 crate springs set up @1.700 with 1.3 Howard's break in rockers for a total of 1 hour in 3 heat cycles on my stand change oil and filter after 2nd heat cycle , HAVE Never lost a flat tappet, then set springs up and correct rockers .
That is a very comprehensive process Larry. I don't have the 1.3 rockers but it is a good idea. I have lots of 602 springs from the race car which I do use also. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on my channel. AG
Straight 30 weight oil is more viscous than a 20w-50 weight oil, because 20w-50 is essentially a 20 weight oil with additives to make it have the protection capabilities of a 50 weight oil. But it stays 20 weight. So your oil pressure is not going to decrease in your case.
Thanks for the info BigMoe. During the dyno pulls, the actual oil pressure will be displayed on the top left hand corner of the HMI screen. Watch for it on the dyno video. I will have a discussion about it also. AG
If a lobe is starting to go will the hydraulic Iifter pump up a bit and keep it quiet. I like solids cause of the clearance check. You would hear it. I never had a lobe fail, only built 4 engines
Thanks Jacqueline. Yes it will so it might mask the failure until the lifter runs out of travel, then the clearance will show up and the noise will start. Good point. AG
Alan , my first build startup went all wrong. the mech didn't know what he was doing like you covered in your last video. and I didn't know enough to know at the time, long story short my flat tappet cam and lifters are toast, I pulled the motor and tore it down, the bearings are all pitted the cylinders are very lightly scored so I'm going to have to rebuild it and this time do a checklist as you described. You have given me the confidence to do the break-in myself. I didn't realize you were in Ontario ! I'm right near sunset speedway in Innisfil, do you do break-ins for clients?
@@goldsgarage8236 no kidding that’s awesome. I was watching a few of your videos in Regards to camshaft selection and and since i am replacing it i am debating now if maybe my combo would benefit from a different profile…also i think im in a bit of a pickle between too much CR or too big of quench , I should have spent more time reading and researching beforehand ! I am wondering if I could run over the specs and tolerances with you and get your opinion on a cam selection or safe limits etc?
Great video! Thanks for the in-depth explanations. I've seen from some others that Comp cams indicates that a flat tappet cam should be re-adjusted after 500 miles for warranty purposes. I don't think there is any need to readjust lifters after break-in. I think that you shouldn't have to touch them for at least 20,000 miles (maybe more) Or is my thinking wrong? Most small blocks would run their entire life span without any adjustment! I just thought it was odd that Comp cams would insist on re-adjusting lifters after just 500 miles to "ensure warranty". May I have your thoughts ?
- Thanks J.R_ Comp Cams instructions and warrantee were written by lawyers to convince the buyer that if something goes wrong it must be the buyers fault. I wonder if anyone has actually cashed in on a cam warrantee? I can understand adjusting solid lifters but not hydraulics.
Lucas has never done me wrong I love that stuff!! My only question is if using the high zinc break in additive with normal synthetic say Mobil 1 or Castro, is ok or you recommend it! I used it on my import and it was fine but did I just get lucky?
thanks for the question Bryarhattabaugh. I think you are better not to mix it with anything. If your import has a roller cam you can use synthetic after the break in. If you have any engine with a flat tappet cam I think you should continue to use oil with Zinc ZDDP. AG
You probably already know how to set the valves, there is only one right way: just as the intake opens, set the exhaust and when the exhaust valve is have closed, set the intake valve... I use nothing but high volume oil pumps on small block. HV is ok, but not high pressure! Causes more heat in the bearings and more friction on the bearings taking HP a way... Too low of valve spring pressure causes valve float above 6,000rpm., Loss of HP... When you change the rocker arm ratio it also changes the degrees of duration on the camshaft... At top dead center I set 4&7 turn it 45° and set 3&2, 45° turn it 45° and set 6&1, turn it ,45° and set 8&5. One more revolution to set all the valves, same as before, 4&7, 3&2, 6&1 and 8&5.
No, you have to turn the engine two complete revolutions to set all valves, 360°. Oil pressure should never be over 60psi on sbc... Idle should be around 40 psi, perfect oil pressure. I always use bearings with .001" extra clearance...
Im loving these budget builds im hoping you can help me with problem with fouling plugs in 400 sbc it has brodix heads 10.1 compression i only get about 2 hours out of a set of plugs just street use which would you recommend that are hot enough
Thanks for the question Mario. First make sure the rest of your ignition and fuel system is working properly. A rich idle mixture setting or main jets can contribute to fouling. Next, how do you drive it? Avoid idling as much as you can, most importantly, stay off the accelerator pump. Every time you blip the throttle you inject more fuel than the engine can burn and contribute to fouling plugs. Also, a rich choke setting can contribute. Lean it out as much as you can, or eliminate it. you will just have to nurse the engine until it warms up. As for plugs, I will give you the AC Delco plug numbers and you can cross reference to whatever you are using. The heat range for AC is 42,43,44,45,46. The higher the number the hotter the plug. 42-43 is probably too cold for street driving. 44 should be hot enough for normal street driving. If you are still fouling go to 45. Whenever you change, I would recommend removing one on each bank after a few miles and inspecting it. Don't use any hotter than you need because it will increase combustion chamber temperature and contribute to pre ignition, knock or pinging. In my Camaro, I use AC 44 heat range plugs. No choke. After starting it I take it around the block at low RPM in first gear to allow it to warm up before heading out. It works for me. Hope this helps. AG
Thanks Richard. For anyone reading this, Richard and I were friends back in Sault Ste. Marie growing up. I bought my first Camaro from Richard in 1968, it was a 1967 with a 327 and four speed transmission. To answer your question Richard, yes we do warm up the engine. Then we shut it down for a few minutes to let it normalize and allow the air to settle out of the oil before making a pull. The actual engine temperature is controlled by the dyno. The dyno is essentially a big water pump. It creates load/torque on the engine by driving the water pump. A strain gauge measures torque and the computer calculates horsepower. HP= Torque x RPM/5252. That is why the torque and HP curves always cross at 5252RPM. Because all the HP is absorbed into the water, the dyno is connected to a 2000 gallon water tank. Water from this tank is circulated through the engine and Darrell can control the engine temperature by adjusting the water valves. I hope this answers your question and always good to ear from you Richard. AG
Thanks Ken, I agree. The engine doesn't care how big the carburetor is, it takes as much as it needs. A 600CFM is a good size for a 327. The L79 350HP 327 came with a 585 CFM carburetor. The dyno measures how much CFM the engine takes, It is always less than the rating of the carburetor. We will make a video of the Dyno test for this engine on August 5 and I will show and discuss the dyno results of CFM at each RPM. Thanks for your comment. AG
I noticed the yard as well and was in awe. I was driving and couldn’t comment. You have a beautiful environment to live and enjoy your blessings.
Thanks Terry, I am trying to talk my wife Mariana into doing a garden tour video. AG
Awesome Landscaping 👌🏿
AG thank you for all your support and information. I successfully broke in my SBC 383 Howard’s flat tappet cam in today. I don’t believe I would have been able to do that without the information you provided.
Thanks Trusty, thanks so much for sharing and congratulations on your cam break in. Every one is an achievement. AG
Hey, thanks for the mention on this video, I almost fell off my chair!! I was suprised to see that nobody had already mentioned your beautiful yard! Myself, I live in a park here in BC, but it is an INDUSTRIAL park🥲
Thanks Alleyoop. We enjoyed the discussion. There is lots more to see. Maybe I should make a video of a garden tour with Mariana narrating. AG
Idk how you dont have more subscribers. Thank you for the wisdom, I"m just a shade tree mechanic but i love sharing knowledge about cars and how they work. TANK YOU!
Thanks E1337. That is a very nice compliment. We will work at making better videos with valuable content and hopefully the subscribers will come. AG
That's great you used those lifters. I have a set, an was about to sell them. Since this video, I'm going to save them for a 327 project. It will be higher RPM than my 350 cruiser. Man, love your videos...
Thanks again Brandon, good to have you on board. AG
Good content. Bad audio.
Yes for sure. You guys have an award winning yard. I'm jealous big time !!
Thanks Brandon, I will pass your comment on to Marianna, it is her creation and passion. Maybe i will have he do a garden tour video some day. AG
looking forward to 2 barrel vs 4 barrel dyno test
Thanks Alex, hope you can make it. AG
I only use NOS Flat tappet cams and lifters
I use gm 602 crate springs set up @1.700 with 1.3 Howard's break in rockers for a total of 1 hour in 3 heat cycles on my stand change oil and filter after 2nd heat cycle , HAVE Never lost a flat tappet, then set springs up and correct rockers .
That is a very comprehensive process Larry. I don't have the 1.3 rockers but it is a good idea. I have lots of 602 springs from the race car which I do use also. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience on my channel. AG
Straight 30 weight oil is more viscous than a 20w-50 weight oil, because 20w-50 is essentially a 20 weight oil with additives to make it have the protection capabilities of a 50 weight oil. But it stays 20 weight. So your oil pressure is not going to decrease in your case.
Thanks for the info BigMoe. During the dyno pulls, the actual oil pressure will be displayed on the top left hand corner of the HMI screen. Watch for it on the dyno video. I will have a discussion about it also. AG
If a lobe is starting to go will the hydraulic Iifter pump up a bit and keep it quiet. I like solids cause of the clearance check. You would hear it. I never had a lobe fail, only built 4 engines
Thanks Jacqueline. Yes it will so it might mask the failure until the lifter runs out of travel, then the clearance will show up and the noise will start. Good point. AG
Man I love your videos
Thanks for the nice compliment John. It motivates me to keep digging so watch for more. AG
Alan , my first build startup went all wrong. the mech didn't know what he was doing like you covered in your last video. and I didn't know enough to know at the time, long story short my flat tappet cam and lifters are toast, I pulled the motor and tore it down, the bearings are all pitted the cylinders are very lightly scored so I'm going to have to rebuild it and this time do a checklist as you described. You have given me the confidence to do the break-in myself. I didn't realize you were in Ontario ! I'm right near sunset speedway in Innisfil, do you do break-ins for clients?
Sure MJ, I can break it in for you. AG I go to Sunset every year for the APC race, I am on the #1 SS Team.
@@goldsgarage8236 no kidding that’s awesome. I was watching a few of your videos in Regards to camshaft selection and and since i am replacing it i am debating now if maybe my combo would benefit from a different profile…also i think im in a bit of a pickle between too much CR or too big of quench , I should have spent more time reading and researching beforehand ! I am wondering if I could run over the specs and tolerances with you and get your opinion on a cam selection or safe limits etc?
@@mjhickson4339
Sure
Just call me. 2269807499
I’m at the track now so tomorrow is better
Ready for the dyno pulls 👍👍👍😎
Thanks Medium, getting close, one more video of the leakdown and compression test, then on to the dyno. AG
Thank you
Thanks for the comment Sam. AG
Great video! Thanks for the in-depth explanations. I've seen from some others that Comp cams indicates that a flat tappet cam should be re-adjusted after 500 miles for warranty purposes. I don't think there is any need to readjust lifters after break-in. I think that you shouldn't have to touch them for at least 20,000 miles (maybe more) Or is my thinking wrong? Most small blocks would run their entire life span without any adjustment! I just thought it was odd that Comp cams would insist on re-adjusting lifters after just 500 miles to "ensure warranty". May I have your thoughts ?
-
Thanks J.R_ Comp Cams instructions and warrantee were written by lawyers to convince the buyer that if something goes wrong it must be the buyers fault. I wonder if anyone has actually cashed in on a cam warrantee? I can understand adjusting solid lifters but not hydraulics.
Love your videos
Nice comment, thanks so much Thomson.AG
Lucas has never done me wrong I love that stuff!! My only question is if using the high zinc break in additive with normal synthetic say Mobil 1 or Castro, is ok or you recommend it! I used it on my import and it was fine but did I just get lucky?
thanks for the question Bryarhattabaugh. I think you are better not to mix it with anything. If your import has a roller cam you can use synthetic after the break in. If you have any engine with a flat tappet cam I think you should continue to use oil with Zinc ZDDP. AG
You probably already know how to set the valves, there is only one right way: just as the intake opens, set the exhaust and when the exhaust valve is have closed, set the intake valve... I use nothing but high volume oil pumps on small block. HV is ok, but not high pressure! Causes more heat in the bearings and more friction on the bearings taking HP a way... Too low of valve spring pressure causes valve float above 6,000rpm., Loss of HP... When you change the rocker arm ratio it also changes the degrees of duration on the camshaft... At top dead center I set 4&7 turn it 45° and set 3&2, 45° turn it 45° and set 6&1, turn it ,45° and set 8&5. One more revolution to set all the valves, same as before, 4&7, 3&2, 6&1 and 8&5.
Thanks Leonard. Lots of information here. You just gave me an idea for a future video on a few of these subjects. I hope you get to see it. AG
Good info, but you must mean "turn it 180*" or a half-revolution on the crank. What oil pressure are you looking for ??
No, you have to turn the engine two complete revolutions to set all valves, 360°. Oil pressure should never be over 60psi on sbc... Idle should be around 40 psi, perfect oil pressure. I always use bearings with .001" extra clearance...
I wish I could convert my 07 Tundra to a spin on filter.
Thanks Gary, maybe you can? AG
Im loving these budget builds im hoping you can help me with problem with fouling plugs in 400 sbc it has brodix heads 10.1 compression i only get about 2 hours out of a set of plugs just street use which would you recommend that are hot enough
Thanks for the question Mario. First make sure the rest of your ignition and fuel system is working properly. A rich idle mixture setting or main jets can contribute to fouling.
Next, how do you drive it? Avoid idling as much as you can, most importantly, stay off the accelerator pump. Every time you blip the throttle you inject more fuel than the engine can burn and contribute to fouling plugs.
Also, a rich choke setting can contribute. Lean it out as much as you can, or eliminate it. you will just have to nurse the engine until it warms up.
As for plugs, I will give you the AC Delco plug numbers and you can cross reference to whatever you are using.
The heat range for AC is 42,43,44,45,46. The higher the number the hotter the plug.
42-43 is probably too cold for street driving.
44 should be hot enough for normal street driving.
If you are still fouling go to 45.
Whenever you change, I would recommend removing one on each bank after a few miles and inspecting it. Don't use any hotter than you need because it will increase combustion chamber temperature and contribute to pre ignition, knock or pinging.
In my Camaro, I use AC 44 heat range plugs. No choke. After starting it I take it around the block at low RPM in first gear to allow it to warm up before heading out. It works for me.
Hope this helps. AG
Ok thank you so much I'm gonna try ac ones
Morning Allan,just wondering,when dynoning a engine is it brought up to operating temp before hammer down,keep up the good work,from the Soo!
Thanks Richard. For anyone reading this, Richard and I were friends back in Sault Ste. Marie growing up. I bought my first Camaro from Richard in 1968, it was a 1967 with a 327 and four speed transmission.
To answer your question Richard, yes we do warm up the engine. Then we shut it down for a few minutes to let it normalize and allow the air to settle out of the oil before making a pull.
The actual engine temperature is controlled by the dyno.
The dyno is essentially a big water pump. It creates load/torque on the engine by driving the water pump. A strain gauge measures torque and the computer calculates horsepower.
HP= Torque x RPM/5252. That is why the torque and HP curves always cross at 5252RPM.
Because all the HP is absorbed into the water, the dyno is connected to a 2000 gallon water tank.
Water from this tank is circulated through the engine and Darrell can control the engine temperature by adjusting the water valves.
I hope this answers your question and always good to ear from you Richard. AG
What do you set the plug gap too ???
Thanks Garrett. 0.035" is a typical specification. That is what I use. AG
Something is wrong with the audio, it sounds scratchy.
It’s a problem with the editing software. It will be fixed by the next video.
I'm not a big fan of over carburetoring a motor, I have a 600 on my 327 sbc
Thanks Ken, I agree. The engine doesn't care how big the carburetor is, it takes as much as it needs. A 600CFM is a good size for a 327. The L79 350HP 327 came with a 585 CFM carburetor.
The dyno measures how much CFM the engine takes, It is always less than the rating of the carburetor.
We will make a video of the Dyno test for this engine on August 5 and I will show and discuss the dyno results of CFM at each RPM. Thanks for your comment. AG
Good video
Thanks Larry. More to come. AG
With break in oil
Thanks Larry, yes of course. AG