Great video! One thing i’d like to add, today I replaced my rod bearings preventatively and you can actually un bolt the steering box from the subframe and leave it in the car. I removed the pitman arm from the box and left that on the center link which was dropped with the subframe. You can get away with not opening the power steering system at all!
Gotta say Ryan, your M5 has greatly influenced my taste in pretty much everything- from cars to home decor to the clothes I buy. What amazing work you’ve done on that car!
Well, if you or someone you know has experience of working on boats in a dry dock setting, ask them about cribbing with wood - a stable, safe, and effective technique to lift objects - given that its done with proper size and good quality wood planks, a LEVEL surface, and center of gravity is accounted for Although yes lift is much easier for this
I am just curious if the valve cover gaskets have been replaced within 5-10k miles prior to the bearing failure. The reason I ask is that with the other 7 rod bearings being OK, I think that this one failed from dirt blocking oil flow, and one way that dirt can get into the engine during a valve cover gasket replacement.
What bearings and rod bolts did you use? Oem or coated? Oem bolts or ARP? Doing this job since I cracked my upper oil pan and I already going thru the trouble of removing everything
I went with OEM rod bearings, but with a WPC treatment. I used OEM bolts. The S62 doesn't suffer from the same catastrophic rod bearing issues that the S85 and S65 do, so I trust the factory parts. The factory torquing procedure for the OEM bolts is annoying, but nowhere near as bad as the S85, so I went with OEM bolts.
@@computiNATEor thank you for the reply that was fast haha I think ima go with oem too the car just crossed 100k so I don’t think they should be bad but I’m already there I might as well do it.
@@jesussandoval4550 Yeah, you’ll be fine. I think mine failed for a few reasons, not the least of which was running too hard while cold. I’d run a 5w50 or 10w60 oil, and you’ll be golden.
Can you give more details on the rear main seal issue you had? I am about to do the rod bearing job, engine out, and of course, I plan to replace the rear main seal. Thanks.
I honestly do not know why the first RMS didn’t seat. There are steps online that detail roughing up the final flange/journal of the crankshaft ever so slightly to ensure a good seal. What I can say is rather than replace just the seal, replace the whole seal carrier, and the bolts, and the little rubber washers that go under the bolts. Use the paper gasket (comes under the seal carrier in the box). Replace it all with new OEM Genuine BMW stuff.
@@computiNATEor hey, thanks for your reply. That’s a good idea. I’m thinking maybe i should not install transmission and start engine by itself to make sure there are no leaks. There is also a coolant passage just above the rear main seal that i am worried about too.
@@jackprick9797 Just replace the paper gasket for the coolant passage and clean the mating surfaces - it’s very rare to leak from there. You’ll have to put the transmission on because it holds the crank position sensor and the starter in place 🥲
The job is roughly two days, depending on how thorough the tech is with cleaning and doing other 'while you're in there' type maintenance. I would expect to be $2,500-$4,000.
Hi Ryan. Can you help. I seem to recall having watched a video you guys made showing the changing of the hoses on the e39 M5 power steering system. I can’t find the video. Is it still up?
31:00.....The black M5 in the background, whats the story on that? It looks like a car that I almost purchased in Michigan a couple years ago...if i remember it was listed for 8k
There's a noticeable clatter from the VANOS units. at idle, that's normal. But if you can hear it from under the car, then I'd do the rod bearings ASAP.
Quick heads up for those who don't know. Newtis.info free website has been shutdown by BMW about a month ago. Your only option is to either pay BMW directly for access or search for any downloads of it online.
@@E39Source $30 a day? $250 a month? $2500 a year? not for DIYers seems like it's only made for shops or wealthy DIYers but if you're a wealthy DIYer just take it to a shop
For a little while, nothing. But without a smooth surface to ride on, the oil flow won’t be maintained, and the bearings will touch the crank more often, heat up, seize, and it’ll be worse than the first time. It might last a minute; it might last a month.
I have 202k on my 2000 M5 with I presume original rod bearings and I am so scared this will rear its ugly head someday soon! My car drives incredibly fantastic but I'm living on borrowed time.
Around 200,000 miles you should consider and start budgeting for rod bearings and timing chains/guides if you want to keep the car longer. Those are the two 'weak points' that should be addressed every 2 decades.
If the BMW engineers were smart, they would've designed these bearings to last more than 100k miles. I've owned my E39 for about 7 years. Put all of 20K miles on it. Gotta say this car is a nightmare.
These S62 bearings are a solid 150-200k mile bearing if any attempts are made to care for the engine (oil service intervals, driving style). The next generation M5 suffered from poor bearings- they generally require replacement by 70,000 miles or so.
@rce Welp, pretty sure I had one go. Changed the oil every 5k with Castrol Edge TWS 10-60 recommended oil. Lightly/Moderately driven. I think I took it to redline once in the past 25K miles. The car never saw the rain or snow, even. Started hearing a slight knock the time I ran it before it failed. Started it up, still heard the knock, then one loud knock and it locked solid. I am able to rotate the engine, although I haven't moved it far...but the crank moves. In the process of taking it apart. Would like to drop the oil pan, but it's pretty much a removal of the entire front suspension...and, quite frankly, I'm getting tired of fixing something every 5k miles I drive this thing.
I'm sorry to hear this. Perhaps previous owners were not so kind to the car? We just changed some preventatively on a 2000 M5 with 201k and the bearing wear wasn't bad at all. Oil pan removal is a pain since the entire subframe must be removed.@@johntomasik1555
@@E39Source It's possible, but it sure is in amazing condition if they abused it. It had thorough maintenance records (including all oil changes logged{, looks almost showroom condition, and it had only Dinan installed mods (just the exhaust and intake). Since I got it, the VANOS system had to be rebuilt, its software disabled starting it,, a cam sensor had to be replaced, the rear window actuator died, the fuel gauge failed, and the nav system quit. Now this. But, keep telling me how great these things are. Heck, I could build a pickup truck that could outperform it for far less money than the previous owner paid for it.
The difference is, the V10 WILL need rod bearing replacement by 75,000 miles in all cases. S62 rod bearing failure is significantly more rare, and almost never below 150,000 miles.
@@jeremiahex The S85 was born to race, absolutely. The S62 was just an improved M62, but it has plenty of race-tech itself. Having owned both for over 10 years now, I personally believe the S62 is far and away the superior engine. It offers better power delivery (wider and more usable power band), plus significantly greater reliability and serviceability. But it doesn't have that 7,000RPM push, and there lies the case to own them both!
@@E39Source you can not compare an apple (E39 M5), with a dragon fruit (E60 M5). Both very different machines. I use to own a 01 E39 M5 years ago, great machine. But E60 M5 is on another level, friend. I own 2 E60 M5s, silver and sepan bronze. A special machine. Both have been very reliable! I want to visit your shop. I have a challenge for you. I want to convert my bronze E60 to manual, not a swap, for the SMG trans is actually a manual. I want to remove the hydraulic shifting system, and place on top a manual shifting system. That’s the challenge. A custom made shifting mechanism that would replace the SMG. I know, the shifting pattern is unconventional. But that’s alright, I’m a commercial truck driver, our shifts are unconventional.
@@jeremiahex I will agree that the S85 E60 M5 is much more 'special' compared to its counterparts. I've never offered a conversion of the SMG-III to manual because of the shift pattern. Could it be done, sure, though I would be very hesitant to attempt the conversion that way.
Great video! One thing i’d like to add, today I replaced my rod bearings preventatively and you can actually un bolt the steering box from the subframe and leave it in the car. I removed the pitman arm from the box and left that on the center link which was dropped with the subframe. You can get away with not opening the power steering system at all!
Indeed, dit it the same way Tom!
Great video! Perfect advice for those current and prospective e39 M5’s (such as myself).
Gotta say Ryan, your M5 has greatly influenced my taste in pretty much everything- from cars to home decor to the clothes I buy. What amazing work you’ve done on that car!
Hey thank you very much!
@John Smith yeah wut still a nice comment though but like wutt.....????
The best M car ever, 👌🏾 planning on getting myself one
Jeezus if this thing is the best, I'd hate to see their worst.
Well sweet jesus! You went the whole 9 yards! Good work!
Good to see you still making videos yeeee
I'm not going anywhere!
Well, if you or someone you know has experience of working on boats in a dry dock setting, ask them about cribbing with wood - a stable, safe, and effective technique to lift objects - given that its done with proper size and good quality wood planks, a LEVEL surface, and center of gravity is accounted for
Although yes lift is much easier for this
Love your videos @ryan🤝
Great video guys like always !!! I would never put my hands inside the motor 😜 Scared to screw it 😅😅😅
Thanks Denis!
I am just curious if the valve cover gaskets have been replaced within 5-10k miles prior to the bearing failure. The reason I ask is that with the other 7 rod bearings being OK, I think that this one failed from dirt blocking oil flow, and one way that dirt can get into the engine during a valve cover gasket replacement.
No, they had not been replaced recently. They were basically plastic when I pulled them.
I like M539 Restorations, have you checked them out?
Yes! Their E38 series just wrapped up. A good guy who knows what he's doing, it would seem.
Thank you for this. What would you recommend be a good interval for prevantative maintenance?
I think 150k would be a good preventative change. Many engines can run twice as far... but then you're constantly worried about it.
@@E39Source Thank you. People like yourselves is the reason we can keep these beautiful creations on the road.
What bearings and rod bolts did you use? Oem or coated? Oem bolts or ARP? Doing this job since I cracked my upper oil pan and I already going thru the trouble of removing everything
I went with OEM rod bearings, but with a WPC treatment. I used OEM bolts. The S62 doesn't suffer from the same catastrophic rod bearing issues that the S85 and S65 do, so I trust the factory parts. The factory torquing procedure for the OEM bolts is annoying, but nowhere near as bad as the S85, so I went with OEM bolts.
@@computiNATEor thank you for the reply that was fast haha I think ima go with oem too the car just crossed 100k so I don’t think they should be bad but I’m already there I might as well do it.
@@jesussandoval4550 Yeah, you’ll be fine. I think mine failed for a few reasons, not the least of which was running too hard while cold. I’d run a 5w50 or 10w60 oil, and you’ll be golden.
@@computiNATEor thanks again
I'm definitely not going to be tackling this myself.
Can you give more details on the rear main seal issue you had? I am about to do the rod bearing job, engine out, and of course, I plan to replace the rear main seal. Thanks.
I honestly do not know why the first RMS didn’t seat. There are steps online that detail roughing up the final flange/journal of the crankshaft ever so slightly to ensure a good seal. What I can say is rather than replace just the seal, replace the whole seal carrier, and the bolts, and the little rubber washers that go under the bolts. Use the paper gasket (comes under the seal carrier in the box). Replace it all with new OEM Genuine BMW stuff.
@@computiNATEor hey, thanks for your reply. That’s a good idea. I’m thinking maybe i should not install transmission and start engine by itself to make sure there are no leaks. There is also a coolant passage just above the rear main seal that i am worried about too.
@@jackprick9797 Just replace the paper gasket for the coolant passage and clean the mating surfaces - it’s very rare to leak from there. You’ll have to put the transmission on because it holds the crank position sensor and the starter in place 🥲
How long does a rod bearings replacement service take? Just wondering what I should expect from my indy mechanic.
The job is roughly two days, depending on how thorough the tech is with cleaning and doing other 'while you're in there' type maintenance. I would expect to be $2,500-$4,000.
2:52 Yes, my bumper is missing a chunk. No, I haven’t fixed it yet 😆
Hi Ryan. Can you help. I seem to recall having watched a video you guys made showing the changing of the hoses on the e39 M5 power steering system.
I can’t find the video. Is it still up?
I actually don't think I've done a video on that yet. I'll be sure to next time I do the job!
31:00.....The black M5 in the background, whats the story on that? It looks like a car that I almost purchased in Michigan a couple years ago...if i remember it was listed for 8k
It was a customer car here in San Diego.
my s62 has the tut tut tut on idle but no rattle on throttle. is it beginning to circle the drain? 😲
There's a noticeable clatter from the VANOS units. at idle, that's normal. But if you can hear it from under the car, then I'd do the rod bearings ASAP.
Ha e39 M5 is soo good cars y love the cars
Is the shop still open?
Yes sir! www.e39source.com
28:23 LMAO 🤣
Good video.... but gives me anxiety. Lol. I’m at 135,000 miles and have the job in the back of my mind.
Plan to do it at 150k. It's worth the peace of mind, and saves your wallet.
Quick heads up for those who don't know. Newtis.info free website has been shutdown by BMW about a month ago. Your only option is to either pay BMW directly for access or search for any downloads of it online.
It is well worth whatever it costs!
@@E39Source $30 a day? $250 a month? $2500 a year? not for DIYers seems like it's only made for shops or wealthy DIYers but if you're a wealthy DIYer just take it to a shop
Please for sale the bmw e39 M5 please
Curious. What will happen if you were to put bearings with that previous crank (the one with some scoring/high tolerance)?
For a little while, nothing. But without a smooth surface to ride on, the oil flow won’t be maintained, and the bearings will touch the crank more often, heat up, seize, and it’ll be worse than the first time. It might last a minute; it might last a month.
Cars like the e39 M5 or the RS4 V8 Manual are made for Real Car Enthusiast.
I have 202k on my 2000 M5 with I presume original rod bearings and I am so scared this will rear its ugly head someday soon! My car drives incredibly fantastic but I'm living on borrowed time.
Around 200,000 miles you should consider and start budgeting for rod bearings and timing chains/guides if you want to keep the car longer. Those are the two 'weak points' that should be addressed every 2 decades.
Why rev it though?
Because I had never heard rod knock before, so I didn't know what I was hearing. I didn't know if it was rod knock or timing guide issues.
@@computiNATEor Nate, could this not have been reground (machined) and fitted with oversized conrods?
@@francispowell1811No. The crankshaft journal was egg-shaped, so it was far more cost effective to just replace it.
@@computiNATEor got you. thanks!
I grindge with it, a very scary nightmare 🤦♀️
No wonder the crank was fooked. Soon as you hear that noise you stop reving it and switch it off.
That made me cringe
This engine is so easy to Rebuilt but Cost lots of money :(
Mm, I don't know that I'd call it easy. Needs special tooling and you have to be intimately familiar with the VANOS system.
Note: newTIS is no more
It's a subscription service now, and worth what it costs.
If the BMW engineers were smart, they would've designed these bearings to last more than 100k miles. I've owned my E39 for about 7 years. Put all of 20K miles on it. Gotta say this car is a nightmare.
These S62 bearings are a solid 150-200k mile bearing if any attempts are made to care for the engine (oil service intervals, driving style). The next generation M5 suffered from poor bearings- they generally require replacement by 70,000 miles or so.
@rce Welp, pretty sure I had one go. Changed the oil every 5k with Castrol Edge TWS 10-60 recommended oil. Lightly/Moderately driven. I think I took it to redline once in the past 25K miles. The car never saw the rain or snow, even. Started hearing a slight knock the time I ran it before it failed. Started it up, still heard the knock, then one loud knock and it locked solid. I am able to rotate the engine, although I haven't moved it far...but the crank moves. In the process of taking it apart. Would like to drop the oil pan, but it's pretty much a removal of the entire front suspension...and, quite frankly, I'm getting tired of fixing something every 5k miles I drive this thing.
I'm sorry to hear this. Perhaps previous owners were not so kind to the car? We just changed some preventatively on a 2000 M5 with 201k and the bearing wear wasn't bad at all. Oil pan removal is a pain since the entire subframe must be removed.@@johntomasik1555
@@E39Source It's possible, but it sure is in amazing condition if they abused it. It had thorough maintenance records (including all oil changes logged{, looks almost showroom condition, and it had only Dinan installed mods (just the exhaust and intake). Since I got it, the VANOS system had to be rebuilt, its software disabled starting it,, a cam sensor had to be replaced, the rear window actuator died, the fuel gauge failed, and the nav system quit. Now this. But, keep telling me how great these things are. Heck, I could build a pickup truck that could outperform it for far less money than the previous owner paid for it.
Rod bearing failure on the E39 M5… this doesn’t make the headlines; only the high-revving, F1 inspired S85 V10 gets the hate!
The difference is, the V10 WILL need rod bearing replacement by 75,000 miles in all cases. S62 rod bearing failure is significantly more rare, and almost never below 150,000 miles.
@@E39Source the S85 is a legit Race Engine. The S62… Not.
@@jeremiahex The S85 was born to race, absolutely. The S62 was just an improved M62, but it has plenty of race-tech itself. Having owned both for over 10 years now, I personally believe the S62 is far and away the superior engine. It offers better power delivery (wider and more usable power band), plus significantly greater reliability and serviceability. But it doesn't have that 7,000RPM push, and there lies the case to own them both!
@@E39Source you can not compare an apple (E39 M5), with a dragon fruit (E60 M5). Both very different machines. I use to own a 01 E39 M5 years ago, great machine. But E60 M5 is on another level, friend. I own 2 E60 M5s, silver and sepan bronze. A special machine. Both have been very reliable! I want to visit your shop. I have a challenge for you. I want to convert my bronze E60 to manual, not a swap, for the SMG trans is actually a manual. I want to remove the hydraulic shifting system, and place on top a manual shifting system. That’s the challenge. A custom made shifting mechanism that would replace the SMG. I know, the shifting pattern is unconventional. But that’s alright, I’m a commercial truck driver, our shifts are unconventional.
@@jeremiahex I will agree that the S85 E60 M5 is much more 'special' compared to its counterparts.
I've never offered a conversion of the SMG-III to manual because of the shift pattern. Could it be done, sure, though I would be very hesitant to attempt the conversion that way.
Hi cheeseburger nate
Ryan, would you consider doing a S62 swap into an E38 engine bay?
Yes, but I think simply buying an M5 is a better way to experience the S62.