Great video AJ. I dig bigger rigs too, easier to work on. Mods on my DBXL 2.0…. 20 million Center diff 100k front and rear FID Center diff mount, motor mount. FID front/ rear diff cases Losi front rear aluminum diff cups Losi aluminum chassis braces and top plate, Losi front and rear aluminum hubs. DGI hub extenders 1 inch DGI Camber and steering links HW MAX5 combo 800 kv DDM skid plates DDM spike wheel nuts. Duratrax SC 5 tires. It’s a mean machine.
Thank you for the informative video. I recently bought DBXL-E 2.0 as my first RC and love it. I should try the 500k diff oil with the help of this video. Cheers~
I found the upgrade to help in almost every aspect of the handling and running of the car. I hope you like it. Please let us know what you think of it when you get a chance to give it a try. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I finally changed the center diff to 500K and all I can say is WOW~~!! much better. So this got thinking, what if what if I go even thicker. Haha
Hey AJ, great informative video. I was not sure if I shouluse 1Mil with earplugs or just 500 like you have. I have decided to go with the 500 center and 100 in the front and rear to balance it all out. Thanks for the inforation it was a big help.
To save you 1 step in removing the center diff, don't remove the rear mount screw on the esc, just flip it back. That way there's no chance you'll strip it out and it serves the same purpose. IMPO, must do upgrades 1) Aluminum diif housings and aluminum diff brackets for front and rear 2) Aluminum chassis braces front and rear 3) Aluminum motor and center diif mount, all one piece. It removes any and all flex. While I haven't got the center mount yet, I plan on getting the vitavon center mount. 4) Now this is personal preference and it's a cosmetic thing but, the original wing broke before the first day was over. I replaced it with an arma kraton 8s wing and it hasn't broken since and it's been about 10 months. The arma wing is much more flexible.
I know this is old but you should really make a video showing how to change the shock fluid / rebuild them . Been wanting a trusted video to get an idea for when that time comes for mine. Appreciate it
For 1/8th scale, say like in my Kraton EXB, I use 30k front, 50k rear, 100k center. That seems to work well for me. It may be a good starting point for you.
This is a much bigger RC than smaller ones, so this fluid doesn’t affect it so significantly. But yes, thicker fluid does affect stress levels. Minding temps after an adjustment is recommended.
Why only 30k? What happens when you go thicker fluids in the front and rear? Does it make it kinda like a locker? 🤔 I was so pumped when I saw this video drop! Lol
Great video, thank you! I will change mine out as well. So 30ml will be enough? Would it help to let i sit for a few hours more to leak more of the 50k oil out?
Seems like a car that can do good in a little of all terrain bet even do good in little snow I like looks of rock crawlers but I don't have rocks to craw so seems this be good for little of every thing
Nothing too special. We wear them out pretty fast so you'll see a variety of tooling in the studio. We usually buy local, hobby stores and such, but eBay is always an option for us here. We search Metric hex drivers and see what pops up. If it looks well made we try it. If it looks cheap we don't. We don't have a favorite set we use.
Hi, A Little off topic I Realise 🤔 But Your Front & Rear Alloy Chassis Braces With Top Mount Brace , Did You Notice Any Real Difference Over The Plastic Originals 🤔 As They Are Quite Expensive Before I Take The Plunge To Buy Them💰.
The aluminum braces for the top plate and chassis are a lot tougher, but I would recommend waiting until you break the original parts to buy the new ones. While mine broke straight away, how you use you machine makes a difference and you may not need them, depending upon your usage of the vehicle of course. We are usually very hard on our rigs around here and thus we were in need of the upgrades almost immediately. I hope this helps. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks For Your Honesty 👏👍 Many Other TH-camrs Would Have Promoted The Upgrades Straight Away (As Many Are Sponsored) Once Again Thanks & Keep Up Your Fantastic Videos👏👏🇬🇧👍
I like and enjoy your videos. Down to earth and very informative. I’d really appreciate it if you could tell me how you fixed a wing on your Lasernut. I‘m getting tomorrow 4x Louise MT Pioneer MFT tires and a Revo Wing. Though I don’t have yet a plan how to fix the wing. Thanks.
I have the same DBXL, no mods yet, but that’s because I have the Gas DBXL, and 2 other 1/5 scale cars. Just bought the Kraken Vekta.5 TT, and have a few mods on it, but it is a more expensive venture than 1/8 scale, so mods come later. LoL.
Heavy it may be, but we like the way the car handles with 500K. There's nothing wrong with your setup though. If 20mil works for you, awesome. Thanks for the input. AJ
you should clean it for real. I have a machine to clean everything but we have cleaning gasoline or nitro or something where you leave it over night and then use a toothbrush to clean it out. And you forgott locktide when you put in the screws in on the diff.
When I do a full rebuild I do clean the parts completely, it's just a good idea, but when I'm just doing an oil change for control purposes I don't get too involved and here's why...sometimes I switch out an oil and hate it, so I do it again and potentially again, and that can be labor intensive if I'm doing a complete job of it. Yes, you're right, doing the job right every time is the right way to go about it, but I get impatient sometimes and can't wait to see if the new oil works, plus, the small amount left behind is negligible, and really does little to affect the new oil. And for the second comment, there was a bit of residual Loctite left on the threads and they tightened up really nicely, so I was willing to risk it. As before, you are right yet again, as I should have demonstrated the proper way to do it, but it slipped my mind at the time of filming. Thanks for keeping me on my toes. AJ
Love the tutorial. This was a great teach. I changed mines to 1 million centre . 18t pinion . Test drive tomorrow. So excited
Great video AJ. I dig bigger rigs too, easier to work on.
Mods on my DBXL 2.0….
20 million Center diff
100k front and rear
FID Center diff mount, motor mount.
FID front/ rear diff cases
Losi front rear aluminum diff cups
Losi aluminum chassis braces and top plate, Losi front and rear aluminum hubs.
DGI hub extenders 1 inch
DGI Camber and steering links
HW MAX5 combo 800 kv
DDM skid plates
DDM spike wheel nuts.
Duratrax SC 5 tires.
It’s a mean machine.
Now that's one well modded rig. I hope it runs out as well as it sounds. Thanks for sharing your upgrades. 😎👍
AJ. I seriously couldn’t work on my DBXLE without you. Or many rigs. Thank you.
This is without question, my favorite RC rig. I bought mine 5 days ago, and it is a blast to bash.
I managed to find one of these at a local pawn store and picked it up the other day after seeing your videos, loving it so far!
That is awesome!😎👍
Thanks!! Great explanation of everything!
Thank you for the informative video. I recently bought DBXL-E 2.0 as my first RC and love it. I should try the 500k diff oil with the help of this video. Cheers~
I found the upgrade to help in almost every aspect of the handling and running of the car. I hope you like it. Please let us know what you think of it when you get a chance to give it a try. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I finally changed the center diff to 500K and all I can say is WOW~~!! much better. So this got thinking, what if what if I go even thicker. Haha
Hey AJ, great informative video. I was not sure if I shouluse 1Mil with earplugs or just 500 like you have. I have decided to go with the 500 center and 100 in the front and rear to balance it all out. Thanks for the inforation it was a big help.
I hope you like it. As we say, tune it for your driving style. Ours works really well for our style. Best of luck with yours. 😎👍
Always so helpful to do how to video’s! 👍
I'm glad you think so. They are a lot of work to produce. 😎👍
To save you 1 step in removing the center diff, don't remove the rear mount screw on the esc, just flip it back. That way there's no chance you'll strip it out and it serves the same purpose.
IMPO, must do upgrades
1) Aluminum diif housings and aluminum diff brackets for front and rear
2) Aluminum chassis braces front and rear
3) Aluminum motor and center diif mount, all one piece. It removes any and all flex. While I haven't got the center mount yet, I plan on getting the vitavon center mount.
4) Now this is personal preference and it's a cosmetic thing but, the original wing broke before the first day was over. I replaced it with an arma kraton 8s wing and it hasn't broken since and it's been about 10 months. The arma wing is much more flexible.
Good info all. Thanks for the update on your build. It sounds like a beast. Keep on bashing my friend. AJ
I know this is old but you should really make a video showing how to change the shock fluid / rebuild them . Been wanting a trusted video to get an idea for when that time comes for mine. Appreciate it
I'd love to see a SBR 2.0 review from you
Maybe one day
Currently saving for one of these to turn into a fpv.. I love fpv rc
Wonderful video
Thank you! Cheers!
For 1/8 buggy what silicones do you recommend for the center, rear and front differential to reduce the balloon on the front tires.
For 1/8th scale, say like in my Kraton EXB, I use 30k front, 50k rear, 100k center. That seems to work well for me. It may be a good starting point for you.
AJ, won't this put stress on the motor when the fluid is thick? In terms of resistance.
This is a much bigger RC than smaller ones, so this fluid doesn’t affect it so significantly. But yes, thicker fluid does affect stress levels. Minding temps after an adjustment is recommended.
Nice video man
Glad you enjoyed it. AJ
Great video. Thank you for all that information. What diff fluids do you have in the front and rear?
30K front and rear, 500K center. Thanks for asking. AJ
Why only 30k? What happens when you go thicker fluids in the front and rear? Does it make it kinda like a locker? 🤔 I was so pumped when I saw this video drop! Lol
The kit came with 30K in the front and rear, and I love the way it handles with that weight. So, there has been no reason to swap it out. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios awesome! :D all my local shop had was a 30k, and a 45k. So I’m going to go with the 45k in the rear, unless you advise otherwise? :)
Great channel subscription hit! I have the gas 2.0, you recommend 500k for the center diff too? Thanks again
🤔🤔. SO NO THREAD LOCK ON THE ALUMINUM PARTS??
We used it. It just went on off camera.
Thank you
Great video, thank you! I will change mine out as well. So 30ml will be enough?
Would it help to let i sit for a few hours more to leak more of the 50k oil out?
Letting it drain is a good thing but I would be careful not to lock the center diff up as it can be a lot harder on the components.
@@AJJAMStudios i agree, locking it up is not a good idea but tightning it a bit more will. Thank you for replying
Seems like a car that can do good in a little of all terrain bet even do good in little snow I like looks of rock crawlers but I don't have rocks to craw so seems this be good for little of every thing
It is pretty good for a lot of stuff, it’s big though. I hope you have the room to run it. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍
Great how to whenis theext video on the mean k8
When I have the chance to run it some more. The weather here is terrible at the moment. Thanks for asking. AJ
What tools are you using ?
Nothing too special. We wear them out pretty fast so you'll see a variety of tooling in the studio. We usually buy local, hobby stores and such, but eBay is always an option for us here. We search Metric hex drivers and see what pops up. If it looks well made we try it. If it looks cheap we don't. We don't have a favorite set we use.
Hi, A Little off topic I Realise 🤔 But Your Front & Rear Alloy Chassis Braces With Top Mount Brace , Did You Notice Any Real Difference Over The Plastic Originals 🤔 As They Are Quite Expensive Before I Take The Plunge To Buy Them💰.
The aluminum braces for the top plate and chassis are a lot tougher, but I would recommend waiting until you break the original parts to buy the new ones. While mine broke straight away, how you use you machine makes a difference and you may not need them, depending upon your usage of the vehicle of course. We are usually very hard on our rigs around here and thus we were in need of the upgrades almost immediately. I hope this helps. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios
Thanks For Your Honesty 👏👍
Many Other TH-camrs Would Have Promoted The Upgrades Straight Away (As Many Are Sponsored)
Once Again Thanks & Keep Up Your Fantastic Videos👏👏🇬🇧👍
I'm glad we could help...that's what we're here for. 😎👍
Did it run a lot better with just 500k in the center diff or did you as thicken the front and rear diff as well? TIA!
Just tuning the center diff made a world of difference. We still haven’t had to do the front or rear. Thanks for asking 😎👍
👍👍🤙🤙
I like and enjoy your videos. Down to earth and very informative. I’d really appreciate it if you could tell me how you fixed a wing on your Lasernut. I‘m getting tomorrow 4x Louise MT Pioneer MFT tires and a Revo Wing. Though I don’t have yet a plan how to fix the wing. Thanks.
I used an Arrma 6s wing mount and connected it in place of the rear wheel mount. It required a thick zip tie but works awesome. Thanks for asking. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks for the fast response. Looking forward to your next video.
I got the same tires on mine I also have the vitavon center diff housing you should check it out it’s 🔥
Nice. Thanks. AJ
I have the same DBXL, no mods yet, but that’s because I have the Gas DBXL, and 2 other 1/5 scale cars. Just bought the Kraken Vekta.5 TT, and have a few mods on it, but it is a more expensive venture than 1/8 scale, so mods come later. LoL.
I feel your pain. The mods can be as expensive as the original purchase of the car itself. Still, we mod...because it's cool. Bash on my friend. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios 🤘🤙✌️
500k is to little for the losi DBXL-e, i install 20m and its running grate, it is a heavy rc
Heavy it may be, but we like the way the car handles with 500K. There's nothing wrong with your setup though. If 20mil works for you, awesome. Thanks for the input. AJ
Tbh I’ll call the center dif a transmission cause it seems like they have same job kinda lol
you should clean it for real. I have a machine to clean everything but we have cleaning gasoline or nitro or something where you leave it over night and then use a toothbrush to clean it out. And you forgott locktide when you put in the screws in on the diff.
When I do a full rebuild I do clean the parts completely, it's just a good idea, but when I'm just doing an oil change for control purposes I don't get too involved and here's why...sometimes I switch out an oil and hate it, so I do it again and potentially again, and that can be labor intensive if I'm doing a complete job of it. Yes, you're right, doing the job right every time is the right way to go about it, but I get impatient sometimes and can't wait to see if the new oil works, plus, the small amount left behind is negligible, and really does little to affect the new oil. And for the second comment, there was a bit of residual Loctite left on the threads and they tightened up really nicely, so I was willing to risk it. As before, you are right yet again, as I should have demonstrated the proper way to do it, but it slipped my mind at the time of filming. Thanks for keeping me on my toes. AJ
Try 2mil...