The bolt/tap trick has saved my butt several times over the last 40 years! Another bolt trick that’s helped me on several occasions is when you have an Allen bolt/set screw/socket head cap screw to remove but don’t have an allen wrench the right size, especially the bigger ones. Just use a bolt head as the allen wrench, and either jamb two nuts together on the threaded end to put a wrench on, weld a nut on, or use vise grips on the threads!
Those are the good ole days!!! I had an old '45 on an F250 frame with a cummins 12 v. I loved that truck. I ended up giving it to a good friend when I left Abilene. I was working for H&W tool and die. I started off as. roughneck and eventually became a welder running between the oil RIgs. I decided to go to school and ended up becoming a chemical engineer. About 18 months ago I was hit and wrapped around a telephone pole while riding my 1957 Harley Panhead. Now it is a long road back to walking and doing everything I love. I still have a Miller Trailblazer in the barn and I truly miss those days and the comaraderie. Really great job on that cast iron.
Thanks NBS......Making a Tap out a Bolt is so clever.......You understand the Basic Principals of what you are working with.......a True Master. LOL I'm a Hobby Welder.....I can only dream of welding as good as you.
Beautiful job. There's a grinder spark test to determine whether it's cast steel or cast iron. You could look that up. The spark test determines other metals too.
I've used those farmers tap ideas quite a few times. I call them that because farmers either can't find a tap or can't afford one. I usually just use a file to cut the threads. They have saved me more times than I can count.
Cast... preheating and post heating is important A good cast trick an old guy taught me.... Groove the cast . weld the groove full with 6013. ??? What ? That'll never work. Wait, keep reading. Get a chisel and easily knock out the complete 6013 weld. It'll just pop out. This has just preheated and burned the oil out out of the cast. NOW weld it with the nickel rod. I repaired big castings on big factory machines. If the machine casting was oil soaked, I sometimes repeated 6013 weld a few times using big 6013 rods and cranking the welder up high. The rod would glow red, it got so hot. Those high stress castings never broke again for all the years I worked there.
Nice repair CB. Did you post heat the part after you finished welding and/or cover it with a welding blanket to slow the cooling rate or just let ‘er rip? Also, the bolt trick is pretty cool and I’ve used a version of that myself. What I’ve done is take a grade 8 bolt of the correct size and a zip wheel on my grinder and, as you said, cut 3 or 4 reliefs diagonally in a right-hand orientation (if that makes any sense). The purpose of the diagonal zip wheel cuts is to make them sharp so they’ll actually cut and auger out the trash in the hole. Just a theory but it’s worked well for me. Thanks for the video and have a blessed day.
Wait, did you just mention "dry land fish"? The best tasting mushrooms on the planet. Damn, even your cast iron welds look great. That nickel rod is like welding with bubble gum but it does the job. Thanks for the bolt tap trick. 👍🏻
Yessir....in my area Morel mushrooms and ramps come up in the woods in the springtime...yank a few trout out of the river, grab a cast iron skillet a stick of butter and build a fire!
What brand of nickel rod do you like best? And where do you get those flux coated bronze rods? My weld supply doesn’t carry any of it so I have to order it all in and not happy with their nickel rod they order. Thanks.
Another information overload, love the welding rod cotter pin.👌 Theirs a truck driver called Chicago Ray that just popped up on you tube , looks and sounds like you.... just sayin. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Great repair! What brand of nickel rod did you use? I bought some Froney on Amazon and they ran really weird. The slag was almost like bubblegum. It was my first time using them, however.
Peening can help on arc welding cast iron...I usually peen a lot in the beginning then if I feel like I can go on without having cracking issues I may not peen on the final passes
@@seankhughes5582 simply use a stainless rod in place of nickel. Of course you have to heat and control how it cools as well. I usually peen it (I just use a needle scaler) for a bit. Then I'll wrap it in a fiberglass blanket so it cools slowly.
The difference between gray iron and ductile iron do the same thing. Gray, you basically have to melt or gouge. Ductile will cut with a torch. Acts like manganese sometimes though... gotta watch out for that.
A guard is the most dangerous thing to have on a grinder...it creates a pinch point that will do more damage to a part of your body than any other way that a wire brush or grinding wheel can injure a body. If you only run grinding wheels at their rated speed there is no reason to have a guard on there.
The bolt/tap trick has saved my butt several times over the last 40 years! Another bolt trick that’s helped me on several occasions is when you have an Allen bolt/set screw/socket head cap screw to remove but don’t have an allen wrench the right size, especially the bigger ones. Just use a bolt head as the allen wrench, and either jamb two nuts together on the threaded end to put a wrench on, weld a nut on, or use vise grips on the threads!
Wow never thought of that, thanks for sharing.👍
SMAW will always be my favorite process. Thank you for sharing!
Your knowledge it's old school with modern hands and brain thank you been very helpful
Glad to help
Man, the good old days running up an down the roads yapp’n on the cb, no cell phones. What a great time.
Those are the good ole days!!! I had an old '45 on an F250 frame with a cummins 12 v. I loved that truck. I ended up giving it to a good friend when I left Abilene. I was working for H&W tool and die. I started off as. roughneck and eventually became a welder running between the oil RIgs. I decided to go to school and ended up becoming a chemical engineer. About 18 months ago I was hit and wrapped around a telephone pole while riding my 1957 Harley Panhead. Now it is a long road back to walking and doing everything I love. I still have a Miller Trailblazer in the barn and I truly miss those days and the comaraderie. Really great job on that cast iron.
Yessir and thanks
@@NBSWELDING Sure thing brother
Thanks NBS......Making a Tap out a Bolt is so clever.......You understand the Basic Principals of what you are working with.......a True Master. LOL
I'm a Hobby Welder.....I can only dream of welding as good as you.
Thanks and thanks for commenting
Man i love your videos....way to keep things simple.....like a step back in time nothing crazy fancy and high tech....just getting it done
You know it Buddy
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great Job C.B., and thanks for the homemade bolt tap trick ! 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
You got it 👍
Beautiful job. There's a grinder spark test to determine whether it's cast steel or cast iron. You could look that up. The spark test determines other metals too.
I like the torch test best
Thanks for all the tips.
You bet!
Clever tip with that bolt/tap.. I learn a lot from your videos.. Thanks for sharing..
I've used those farmers tap ideas quite a few times. I call them that because farmers either can't find a tap or can't afford one. I usually just use a file to cut the threads. They have saved me more times than I can count.
Reminiscing about the good Ole days shore does bring back some memories. Those welds look good as usual. Love this channel ❤️
Nice repair CB. Repairing cast seems to be art.
Honestly that will probably never break again
Cast... preheating and post heating is important A good cast trick an old guy taught me.... Groove the cast . weld the groove full with 6013. ??? What ? That'll never work. Wait, keep reading. Get a chisel and easily knock out the complete 6013 weld. It'll just pop out. This has just preheated and burned the oil out out of the cast. NOW weld it with the nickel rod. I repaired big castings on big factory machines. If the machine casting was oil soaked, I sometimes repeated 6013 weld a few times using big 6013 rods and cranking the welder up high. The rod would glow red, it got so hot. Those high stress castings never broke again for all the years I worked there.
Thanks for the advice
You bet
Nice repair CB. Did you post heat the part after you finished welding and/or cover it with a welding blanket to slow the cooling rate or just let ‘er rip? Also, the bolt trick is pretty cool and I’ve used a version of that myself. What I’ve done is take a grade 8 bolt of the correct size and a zip wheel on my grinder and, as you said, cut 3 or 4 reliefs diagonally in a right-hand orientation (if that makes any sense). The purpose of the diagonal zip wheel cuts is to make them sharp so they’ll actually cut and auger out the trash in the hole. Just a theory but it’s worked well for me. Thanks for the video and have a blessed day.
No post heat on this one...just preheat
That's pretty slick trick with the bolt
Wait, did you just mention "dry land fish"? The best tasting mushrooms on the planet. Damn, even your cast iron welds look great. That nickel rod is like welding with bubble gum but it does the job. Thanks for the bolt tap trick. 👍🏻
Yessir....in my area Morel mushrooms and ramps come up in the woods in the springtime...yank a few trout out of the river, grab a cast iron skillet a stick of butter and build a fire!
Nice work!
Thanks!
What brand of nickel rod do you like best? And where do you get those flux coated bronze rods? My weld supply doesn’t carry any of it so I have to order it all in and not happy with their nickel rod they order. Thanks.
Harris Nic-L-Weld 99 is the cast rod
Not sure where I got the flux coated bronze rod or what brand it is
@@NBSWELDINGthanks boss
Good job CB
Another information overload, love the welding rod cotter pin.👌 Theirs a truck driver called Chicago Ray that just popped up on you tube , looks and sounds like you.... just sayin. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Great repair! What brand of nickel rod did you use? I bought some Froney on Amazon and they ran really weird. The slag was almost like bubblegum. It was my first time using them, however.
Harris Nic-L-Weld 99
Nice work as always
Thanks for the bolt/die trick
And thank you for sharing
Cheers from Nova Scotia bro 👍👍
Just out of curiosity have you used the bestarc plasma cutter at all after the review?
No I haven't
Isn't the cast iron welding where folks peen the weld or something in between beads? I vaguely remember some process where they do that.
Peening can help on arc welding cast iron...I usually peen a lot in the beginning then if I feel like I can go on without having cracking issues I may not peen on the final passes
C.B. Have you ever used a stainless steel rod to repair cast iron? I've had good luck with them. An older fellow showed me how they would work.
I'd like to hear more about this idea explained in detail
@@seankhughes5582 simply use a stainless rod in place of nickel. Of course you have to heat and control how it cools as well. I usually peen it (I just use a needle scaler) for a bit. Then I'll wrap it in a fiberglass blanket so it cools slowly.
I appreciate the reply, is that 308 or 309 stainless? I read 309 has more nickel content.
@@seankhughes5582 I used the 309
I have not used stainless on cast iron
Like the nickel rod,except the price,but sure does work nice on cast iron. great video bud.
Thanks 👍
The difference between gray iron and ductile iron do the same thing. Gray, you basically have to melt or gouge. Ductile will cut with a torch. Acts like manganese sometimes though... gotta watch out for that.
nice job and good tips
Call that gap a flute brother
Where’s the guard for that grinder?
A guard is the most dangerous thing to have on a grinder...it creates a pinch point that will do more damage to a part of your body than any other way that a wire brush or grinding wheel can injure a body. If you only run grinding wheels at their rated speed there is no reason to have a guard on there.
Outstanding
genious
Good job CB