Height definitely adds an advantage but i would say in this case, it's not the reason why Ai couldn't send. M3 is a mostly a balancey problem & span helps but i thk Ai could have done it too if she had gone for the move slowly like how Miho did it. M4 is a coordi/dynamic problem which has always been Ai's weakness. There have been World Cups where the shorter athletes were disadvantaged but i think this is not the case.
@@twidlings327 W3: for her to go slower, she would need to be more balanced (feet not so close to the wall), which she couldn't because by doing that, she would get even lower on the volume, so she couldn't reach with her arms. More height means more balance and more reach to the hand volume. Definitely not easy for smaller climbers. Notice how lower and lower she gets while trying to go slowly to the left. W4: another moment where reach and being taller just helps a ton for the top hold. It's more than obvious and unanimous that being taller helps with dynos. You just can stretch and reach more without jumping so much. Maybe not some specific ones, but definitely on this one.
@@opiniononion yes she is. She is amazing. I'm saying it's unfair because she's in disadvantage in some boulders. And for sure is not due to lack of strength and technique. She works a lot for this. But well, we do the best we can to our ability!
the first try was called off, in the following tries she had her four limbs touching the indicated holds at the same time. You have to establish a controlled starting position, it is always up to the umpire what that means, but I guess considering her height they were a bit more lenient here.
@@artezac this does not matter. If it did would how would you decide who gets and doesnt get to start normaly. Will for ever boulder problem be a hight restriction for starting? Do you have to do a true start at 162cm or at 163cm?
@@artezac so do you take out a measuring tape or how would you decide it? Does feet size suddenly matter then? You would need every athletes size not just regular but with extended arms, fingers and toes. Will there be rules written for every boulder? You can see that your solution is pretty bad right?
Timestamps are in the description box!!
You should put a shot of the final standings at the end next time :)
@@b0604 Wil do! Thanks for the feedback!!
Thanks for sharing 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Good group of very strong ladies 💪
That last boulder was phenomenal to watch haha
I think the slab was phenomenal too!
Banger!
19:11 this move just looks soo impressive
22:41 these slow moves are so cool as a contrast to the abundance of paddle dynos in comps
yo the dj was on FIRE
So unfair for Ai Mori... its like if she was tall enough, she would be unstoppable. Everything she's unable to send its just due to her height
Height definitely adds an advantage but i would say in this case, it's not the reason why Ai couldn't send.
M3 is a mostly a balancey problem & span helps but i thk Ai could have done it too if she had gone for the move slowly like how Miho did it.
M4 is a coordi/dynamic problem which has always been Ai's weakness.
There have been World Cups where the shorter athletes were disadvantaged but i think this is not the case.
No. If she was taller she would be heavier and then therefore loose here biggest advantage.
@@twidlings327
W3: for her to go slower, she would need to be more balanced (feet not so close to the wall), which she couldn't because by doing that, she would get even lower on the volume, so she couldn't reach with her arms. More height means more balance and more reach to the hand volume. Definitely not easy for smaller climbers. Notice how lower and lower she gets while trying to go slowly to the left.
W4: another moment where reach and being taller just helps a ton for the top hold. It's more than obvious and unanimous that being taller helps with dynos. You just can stretch and reach more without jumping so much. Maybe not some specific ones, but definitely on this one.
She's better than tonnes of people taller than her wtf you saying
@@opiniononion yes she is. She is amazing. I'm saying it's unfair because she's in disadvantage in some boulders. And for sure is not due to lack of strength and technique. She works a lot for this. But well, we do the best we can to our ability!
So who won?
Mao NAKAMURA or Miho NONAKA i think
@@FaithFTW1 it was Mao Nakamura (#012)
Use auto translate and the commentators will tell you :)
team "you cannot boulder with socks because of performance" watching the video 👁👄👁
socks and tenayas 🤮 she’s just that good, if she put on some downsized theorys she would beat janja
@@gatosospechosop3 the video quality is not that good but I see more than 1 athlete with socks
so how do the starting holds work? At W4 it never looked like Ai mori for example established contact
the first try was called off, in the following tries she had her four limbs touching the indicated holds at the same time. You have to establish a controlled starting position, it is always up to the umpire what that means, but I guess considering her height they were a bit more lenient here.
It would be impossible for Ai Mori to start that boulder fully legally
@@artezac this does not matter. If it did would how would you decide who gets and doesnt get to start normaly. Will for ever boulder problem be a hight restriction for starting? Do you have to do a true start at 162cm or at 163cm?
@@Tomatoffel just by if it's actually impossible for the athlete to start a boulder cause of their height?
@@artezac so do you take out a measuring tape or how would you decide it? Does feet size suddenly matter then? You would need every athletes size not just regular but with extended arms, fingers and toes. Will there be rules written for every boulder? You can see that your solution is pretty bad right?
Wow, I noticed that Ai Mori is already wearing the new climbing shoes--Futura2024。