Just got done replacing the carb and two of the rubber isolating bushings. Tried the hard way first but that plug up against the engine was very difficult until I finally removed the four screws from the housing to the engine. Then it was a simple matter of tipping the engine enough to remove the plug. Oiled the bushings and they popped right in - then inserted the plugs and put the whole thing back together. Not difficult if you pull the engine out of the way and only took a few minutes after wasting an hour or more trying to do it the wrong way. Good video. Thanks.
I did mine without removing the fuel tank,time will tell how they hang on,lost the outer plug for the lower one,but seems inner plug might hold it.thanks for the video.
not many people are saying this but the rubbers are meant to stay in the mounts! and pry handlebar over the rubbers! they don't need to come out of the saw housing! to remove the handle bar! pry bar over the tops of the rubbers after removing the caps!
Was watching to change my broken handle...mine fell off tractor and I didn't notice and ended up running over it a couple of times ....but now.... I'm thinking I will go with the wire method that you had ...it ended up more tore up than it was before the handle replacement.... good looking out... Thanks ...
I'm replacing the engine in the same saw. You cannot get to two of the engine mounting screws without removing the handle, so what you said about removing the engine to replace the handle won't work, unless you want to leave those two screws out, but I don't think that would be a good idea! (-:
The most helpful so far, getting the rubbers back in I lined mine up sprayed easing oil in and pulled them through a bit at a time, don’t pull them too far through though, they’re supposed to be level.
Customer on Amazon ADVISED LEAVING THE RUBBER GROMMETS; attached to the chainsaw and JUST PULLING the HANDLE OFF; Pre LUB the RUBBER GROMMETS; with Water 💦 and DAWN DISHWASHING SOAP)
I have had to replace several rear handles on crash damaged saws or tanks that were leaking on chainsaws that I own. Ran into a recent problem that I would mention. The new handle worked fine but I could not get the idle to come down on a Stihl 024 that I was restoring. Like most, I jumped on seals and intake boot and replaced them. These were not the problem. Finally, I looked down into the carb and noticed the throttle plate was slightly open even though the idle screw was not touching the throttle cam. I then removed the throttle rod and compared it against the original throttle rod. The new throttle rod that came with the tank was an 1/8” longer than the Stihl throttle rod. I replaced it and the idle came back to normal. One other thing I found was the hole for the idle screw inthe tank was to small to allow the screw to fit into it. I ground it out with a Dremel tool. It really did not matter because I replaced the carb with a fully adjustable H and L jet and it had a smaller idle adjusting screw than the original Stihl carb.
Just got done replacing the carb and two of the rubber isolating bushings. Tried the hard way first but that plug up against the engine was very difficult until I finally removed the four screws from the housing to the engine. Then it was a simple matter of tipping the engine enough to remove the plug. Oiled the bushings and they popped right in - then inserted the plugs and put the whole thing back together. Not difficult if you pull the engine out of the way and only took a few minutes after wasting an hour or more trying to do it the wrong way. Good video. Thanks.
Came in handy. In case no one has mentioned it, fencing pliers pop those caps of real quick.
Should claen saw b4 working on it and while having that broke down clean some more. Thanks for video.
Dish soap makes those things 100x easier to work in :)
I did mine without removing the fuel tank,time will tell how they hang on,lost the outer plug for the lower one,but seems inner plug might hold it.thanks for the video.
not many people are saying this but the rubbers are meant to stay in the mounts! and pry handlebar over the rubbers! they don't need to come out of the saw housing! to remove the handle bar! pry bar over the tops of the rubbers after removing the caps!
Good to see you back!
Was watching to change my broken handle...mine fell off tractor and I didn't notice and ended up running over it a couple of times ....but now.... I'm thinking I will go with the wire method that you had ...it ended up more tore up than it was before the handle replacement.... good looking out... Thanks ...
I'm replacing the engine in the same saw. You cannot get to two of the engine mounting screws without removing the handle, so what you said about removing the engine to replace the handle won't work, unless you want to leave those two screws out, but I don't think that would be a good idea! (-:
The most helpful so far, getting the rubbers back in I lined mine up sprayed easing oil in and pulled them through a bit at a time, don’t pull them too far through though, they’re supposed to be level.
Hoped video would show the handle internals as schematic is awful for resembling. Video just your struggles with grommets. Dang.
I've found that a little bit of spray silicone makes the plugs go in easier..
I changed mine without taking the saw apart 🤷🏻♂️
Tyler Mccomber those plugs were really wedged in on mine.
yeah, brake clean on the grommets
@@design2survive yes, me to. thats why im here lol
How much was that handle? I'm starting to believe this thing is a throwaway! And yes I do own one with a broken handle!
Customer on Amazon ADVISED LEAVING THE RUBBER GROMMETS; attached to the chainsaw and JUST PULLING the HANDLE OFF; Pre LUB the RUBBER GROMMETS; with Water 💦 and DAWN DISHWASHING SOAP)
You can pry the handle off the groomers without removing them
EXACTLY!
Put some oil on the rubber...its make easy to install or pull out...
42 bucks for an OEM stihl part.
I have had to replace several rear handles on crash damaged saws or tanks that were leaking on chainsaws that I own. Ran into a recent problem that I would mention. The new handle worked fine but I could not get the idle to come down on a Stihl 024 that I was restoring. Like most, I jumped on seals and intake boot and replaced them. These were not the problem. Finally, I looked down into the carb and noticed the throttle plate was slightly open even though the idle screw was not touching the throttle cam. I then removed the throttle rod and compared it against the original throttle rod. The new throttle rod that came with the tank was an 1/8” longer than the Stihl throttle rod. I replaced it and the idle came back to normal. One other thing I found was the hole for the idle screw inthe tank was to small to allow the screw to fit into it. I ground it out with a Dremel tool. It really did not matter because I replaced the carb with a fully adjustable H and L jet and it had a smaller idle adjusting screw than the original Stihl carb.
How to open the buffer?
I don’t understand this video you supposed to show us how to fix the handle The other parts comes with it
Too much taking, not enough showing. When you have to dip thru 80% of the video to see how to do the job you’re talking too much.
Great focus they did short you apart though lol. go with farm tech. same thing as sthil but hundresd cheaper
Bad work...