04 4.0 Explorer XLT. I take good care and keep it well maintained. Never lets me down. I feel two things are true; 1.) If you take care of something and replace things as necessary- you maximize its lifetime. 2.) You can say anything has common issues and obsessively focus on them, or just fix them- because nothing in life is a 100% guarantee.
Great Video! I have a 2003 Ford Exploder 4x4 with 214,000 miles. You nailed most of the maintenance issues we have had with this vehicle. Although no engine or timing issues as yet we Replaced transmission at 194k miles. I would add a few...the extremely difficult diy parking brake assembly, the easy repair cruise control brake pressure sensor, lift gate cracks and hinge replacement, plastic vacuum hose assemblies under the hood which of course crack. Etc. etc.....HOWEVER, did I mention we have 214k miles. Likely near $50k to replace so I will keep saving a $600+ payment with my Ford Exploder!!
thank you! i have a 2008 merc mountaineer 4.0 that we purchased with 180k. it has 200k on it now and we're hoping for 300k. we get it serviced every 4k mi. so far it is running great. personally i hate the AWD because of the mpg and the road noise. so far it has been good and the maintenance has been less than a car payment. thanks again, this info is helpful for the maintenance plan.
My brother owned a 2001 Ford Explorer and he had terrible problems with overheating, slipping transmission and rattles, leaks...it was the worst vehicle he ever owned. Your doing a great service by pointing out some issues on that dude.
I have a '04 Mountaineer and it had many of these problems after 130k miles. I will look into the other problems that you mentioned because I'm sure that they will be next. Thank you for the valuable info. Great post.
My '02 explorer has the 4.6 V-8 which are famous for leaking oil around the oil filter adapter which bolts onto the side of the block. Being a 4x4 with power steering, there was no way to get at the bolts holding it on so i had to drop the front differential to change the leaky gasket. While it was out, i resealed the diff and replaced the U joints, tie rod ends, front struts, CV joints and stub axles, rotors, calipers and pads, sway bar bushings, and anything else which needed it. Once it was all back together, I did the rear axle including new clutches in the locking rear end. It's like a new vehicle again with 378k on the clock! Oh yeah, to replace the front driveshaft seal in the transfer case, I had to drop the transfer case and split it to get at the seal. It's a labor of love.
Great video. I own a 2003 4.0 Explorer with 285k, bought it brand new and right on the money I've experienced most of those issues. I am getting ready to replace timing chains for the 4th time, I'm on my 4th set of wheel bearings, 2nd transmission and 2nd catalytic converter
@@adamxenon829 synthetic since day one. Not long after the original post, a chain snapped. At that point I called it quits. But the engine bottom was solid. Those plastic timing chain guides are design to break. And one of the chains is on the back of the engine, so no choice but to pull the engine out.
Somewhere along the line, Ford replaced the plastic timing chain guides with metal, after so many complaints about plastic disintegrating and ending up in the engine. I have a 2010 4x4, which I was told has the metal guides. Mine was a company lease, with 200k mostly highway miles. It does run and shift great. Turned-in company leases can be a good value, as they have usually been well-maintained and haven't been subjected to the wear and tear of in-town driving. You're right about the thermostat housing. Mine is leaking a bit, so I need to get after it. Coolant sitting on top of the engine block is another sign of this issue. Easy fix. And you're right about the wheel bearings, too. You're also right about the shifter issue. I would just add that there is a pin in the mechanism that moves in and out, allowing the shifter to either move or lock in place...activated by the brake pedal solenoid. I assumed the little circuit board in the white plastic case was the cause of my problem, when it was actually the pin that had broken inside the shifter (it is attached to the actual lever). When it breaks at the attachment point it can work it's way out and won't retract...locking the shifter in park (and not allowing you to remove the key from the ignition..and draining your battery). I'm not aware of a good fix for this, short of replacing the entire shifter console unit. I pushed the pin back in, and for now it shifts fine. This won't last, but at least I know what the problem is when it happens again. With removal of 2 screws, one can lift the console cover enough to push the pin back in. Mine has been fine for several weeks now after doing this. I like my 2010. It's in great shape. It's quiet inside and runs smoothly... but there is some strange engineering going on with these Explorers. Lots of plastic in places where metal would have meant better reliability. I have a 1999 4Runner 4x4 with 338k on it. Runs like a Swiss watch and the build quality is far superior. I'd drive it to California tomorrow. I wouldn't feel so confident in my Explorer.
I got an 06 about two years ago and it’s been the best vehicle/suv I’ve ever owned and it’s about to hit 200k miles and I’ve had any problems with it yet so it’s been a good one
Wow... other than the dozens of common problems you mentioned it looks like the Exploder is a superbly engineered machine! Ford.. you have done it again, and your reputation for "fix or repair daily" stands firm.
My 2004 Explorer has 130,000 miles on it currently. So far everything has been rock solid except for the front wheel bearings which are just starting to rumble. I ordered a set of Moog replacements and will replace them soon. Many of these problems are lack of maintenance related issues. I have no leaks or wet spots around the rear diff, actually no leaks anywhere at all. I did have to replace the thermostat housing around 100,000 miles. Super easy and open access. I change all of the fluids regularly. Engine oil, trans fluid, transfer case, rear diff, coolant, power steering and brake fluid. I usually chang the engine oil every 8k with 5-w30 mobile 1 synthetic or whatever synthetic is on sale. I always make sure to use an OEM Motorcraft oil filter. I do a transmission pan drop and fill with filter every 30,000 miles and only use OEM Motorcraft Mercon V trans fluid. For the front and rear diffs I use fully synthetic 80/140 gear oil and the transfer case gets Mercon trans fluid. Never use Mercon V in the transfer case. Oh yeah, original brake rotors all around and not warped. I'm easy on my brakes and use the O/D overdrive off for engine braking whenever I'm going down a steep hill to conserve the brake pads. Especially when towing.
The 5.0 litre V8 on the 2000 model has been really solid. Always runs, never had a check engine light. If you have a light foot you can get over 20 mpg. Step on it and you will get about 18.
@@jeff-wv8te I now have 235k miles on that Explorer and the rear brakes are in need of replacement. All highway miles. Those are original pads from new. The emergency brake cable must have been hanging up as those brake shoes are entirely gone. (Rear disks with built in shoes for the emergency brake). Not sure how that happened as i never, ever use the emergency brake. The passenger side rear axle seal was also leaking oil into the brake. Other side ok. So I have it all apart and have all the new parts including new brake cables. Will be replacing both axle seals while it's apart. I have a 2010 Explorer 4.6 V8 that I drive while the old one is being repaired.
@@northdakotaham1752 great. Ive owned a 5.0, 1997 and 1999 mountaineer. Now i own a 2000 5.0 mountaineer with 248k miles. Good truck except door and window controls and dome light (door ajar) electric always messes up after 100k miles so i just rewire switches as theu ware out. I have a 2003 explorer 86k miles, with a 2004 4.6. I cant figure out why my CHT sensore keeps shutting my vehical off. Tgats why i am searching yputube videos today. Have a good week.
I have two Explorers and an Aviator, 2003 Explorer awd 4.0 190,000 have owned this 5 years and 50,000 miles have replaced brakes only and one front axle. Plus regular maintenance, oil changes transmission fluid. Currently needs axle seal replaced and upper control arms front due to rust, but all joints are solid. 2004 Explorer 4wd 4.0 has 309,000 has been well maintained bought used recently. have all maintenance records. plus what I have done 4 wheel bearings were replaced brakes all around 3 times. 8 sets of tires. Rear differential has been resealed two times. It is getting timing chain slap now, probably needs engine pulled out and timing done. burns no oil shifts great. Transfer case shift motor has failed two times. fuel pressure monitoring sensor failed before. All electrical switches in both Explorers work windows work never had the doors apart. no issues. all options work as designed The 2003 aviator 2wd 4.6 v8 181,000 has had a bad water pump in the past needs a wheel bearing runs and drives great. power steering pump is noisy. annoyingly the paint has worn off lots of buttons inside and some switches need replaced. door ajar switch failed on driver door needs replaced.
2004 4.0 here. I have 200k+ miles. Issues I have had is the thermostat housing twice, trailing arms twice, EGR valve, front & rear wheel bearings, muffler+rear tailpipe above rear end+ clamp before muffler rusted in pieces. Just did intake gasket, valve cover gaskets, EGR valve, coilpack, wires & plugs. Improved performance now but problem that I still have is rough idle. I am guessing probably a vacuum leak somewhere. I know idler pulley is making noise. Oh and another thing is charging system light flickers on & off & beeping over & over again driving you nuts going down the road. I just seen people talk about the plug on the alternator doesn't make the best of connection so you have to tweak the prongs a lil. I will do that tomorrow. But as for a vacuum leaks have you seen any common issues that I may want to look at for the rough idle?
Hello, great info. What about an o8 mercury mountaineer w/ a 4.0 That info applies to these models as Well? And how difficult it is to replace the rack and pinion on my 08 mountaineer? Thank You. Hello from Sonora Mexico.
2006 233k miles , original motor , just recently replaced the transmission, I over hearted the motor like 2 x lol and still runs strong as shit with no leaks . Been driving it everyday since 2010 when I bought it
Hi. I hear there is another common issue I would like to see a vid on. My 09 explorer had a rear door glass ajar even though it was closed and the interior light would not go out. I was forced to pull a fuse from under the dash to turn it off. It would be great if you could post a vid covering the diagnosis and repair of this issue.
Thats quite interesting cause I thought my door was vibrating loosely as I shut it. Turns out the seal(perfectly fine unless its stretched) for my window is not staying on. Good luck with your issue
Always pick the 4.6L V8! At least if something fails you can actually fix it without removing the entire engine! Unfortunately most explorers came with the 4.0L V6.
@@andrewhatton1606 I test drove one and fell in love with it. An 06 v8 mounty. It isn't perfect but I think it is better than a lot of competition. The v8 and its trans could be another carmaker vs the 4.0.
We had problems with the Air Conditioner. When the vacuum lines get brittle and break it prevents airflow control for the main and lower vents keeping the air on the windshield only. Also, the EGR vacuum lines and A/C vacuum control lines are controlled by a check valve. If it fails it's an easy, inexpensive fix some mechanics won't tell you about.
LOL I have Two 2006 explorer EddieB in my driveway, One is always running :) one has 206k and the other has 223k, I love this truck and the gas mileage for a 5000lbs solid truck I get 22+MPG on both with nothing aftermarket added! I just had an issue Cyl 3 misfire it turned out to be the Coil Pack
I've replaced a few of the thermostat housings. Ha! shift lock solenoids, quite a few stories on those like one towed from another shop where the frustrated mechanic apparently used brute force when it stalled in traffic and broke the whole assembly. (Exploder, isn't that correct? I've been calling them that for years). There is an actual slot in the lower cover where you can push a key up in to release it.
I have an 03 XLT with the 4.0 and 158k miles, it has every single problem you mentioned except for the timing chain (fingers crossed) but it refuses to die!
Same here 2003, I got the timing chain problem tho lol but sob just doesn't stop man.. Ive had it like that for the last 30k miles, it just hit 200k this week. My 2014 Dodge on the first failure I had to junk it... I dont know if I would classify this car as "non reliable", I mean.... somebody that gets shit done no matter what sounds reliable af to me 🤷♂️
Could you tell me more about the key failure along with the module or what makes the car shut off while you driving down the road seems to reset with the alarm almost like a starter solenoid problem
Yeah that cover ( is it metal?) gripped in the battery cable terminal, I would think the cover wouldn't allow the terminal to tighten up properly on the battery post?
mr tim I did some trading on a 2003 mountaineer 4.6l rear freeze plug gone one rubber quickie on left side that I saw that I can see from under the bottom on the good lift like you got your the reason I bout another eagle four post lift 12k this time but but they robed the starter going to put the starter on first if car runs shut it down remove transmission install freeze plugs do think they over heated the engine or just mixing the wrong antifreeze back in the day the rear freeze plug bore is as clean as you took it out weird no rust west tn the engine is super clean the rad is clean how did the freeze plug fall out you thoughts
I you thinking of one i get the 4.6 v8 6 speed. Yes the 4.0 v6 5 speed is sluggish and hesitant and once had that coolant leak from the thermostat from a 2006 model, currently haver a 09 4.0 and before that an 06 with same engine.
Hi Tim, Good video. I have a misfiring issue with Ford explorer 2010 4 ltr and the engine specially under idle condition vibrates. I have had plugs and its wires changed with Oxygen sensors but the problem still exists. could it be vacuum hoses problem?
what about the 2005 ford explorer 4.0 front differential 3.55 8.8 problems along with the passanger side cv axle problems? please show a video with these issues?
Thanks Tim. We have the same one as the gray one. We had to have the rear end replaced under warranty and again later because according to Ford, if all four tires are not EXACTLY the same circumference, it will destroy the rear end. It apparently locks both wheels together because it thinks you need better traction. This is a problem when you are trying to back out of a parking space. It can also try to force it in to four wheel drive a 65 Miles per hour. BTW, we also experienced most of the other things you talked about. On the other hand it now has 290 K miles on it.
Jhennessy De-La-Fuente no that's a different engine put the thermostat is plastic I'd look right where the engine and trans meet under the throttle body
Check the pcm or like Tim said the diodes in your key aren't reading. They read off of ohms! You get them around high voltage or frequency areas it could mess it up!
I just bought a 2001 mecury mountianer yesterday. I was under the impression that it is basicly a ford explorer. It has a 5.0 v-8 and all wheel drive with an automatic transmission. Any information would be great
You got yourself a solid vehicle especially for work or something to work on. That 302 is still pretty sought after interns of how strong it is and how long it’ll last. I got a 99 with the 5.0 20 years and just under 190k miles still holds strong. I’m thinking to start upgrades the engine and work my way through the truck.
Some time you take care and they will fail on you just because, I have a 1998 explorer with only 126k miles on it been on the family since 45k miles , really well take car off , but the timing chain failed , so is not always "if you"
My '07 Mountaineer is locking and unlocking like it is possessed. It is also causing the horn to beep like I am locking the car. Any ideas what the problem is?
I have a 2003 mountaineer , & mine does the same , Took it to the Ford Dealer & they said my vehicle Security module is Failing & to Replace it . Went on eBay , it's sell for $ 30.00 . I am still waiting on it to come in the mail , so , I can Replace it out . Let's see what Happens . Also , Since then my Vehicle has been Intermittent Dying out when Driving . Very Unsafe--
I own a 2004 Explore watching your video is déjà vu everything that you discussed in your video I've already had a problem with I replaced on my vehicle. The thermostat housing leaked on vacation we barely made it to the repair shop, matter fact we had it towed did not want to overheat the engine. The transmission has been rebuilt, the differential has been rebuilt, all for struts replaced. And here's one for the books, the harmonic balance blew a part, lucky the fan belt could ride on the metal part just enough to safely get us to a shop. Also upper control arm bushings wore out, Ford only supplies it with a new control arm. I got 119,000 miles, and my mechanic says you know after hundred thousand miles you start having trouble, I told him no problem. All these problems I have with my car all happened between 30 and 80,000 miles.
Changing the fluid on a high milage transmission is a hot lead enema!!! Flushing the trans is even worse! That fresh trans fluid will do soooo much damage to the seals etc that you will have absolute trans failure in 500 to 1000 miles! CONGRATULATIONS!!!
@@dexterlovejoy2855 that is completely untrue... if you think changing the fluid will cause damage, the transmission is already damaged and is being masked by metal particulates in trashed fluid. If a transmission is maintained and fluid is changed regularly, changing it with high miles won't hurt anything.
@@JM811Cars you obviously have never had a high mile transmission. If you've been changing the fluid every 20K, you won't have the adverse effects as much. This is why mechanics will recommend drawing out a quart and adding a quart if you really feel its dark tranny fluid. Even then, just because it's dark doesn't mean it's dirty or burnt. Just discoloration from old seals. It doesn't effect the performance of the fluid. This is where jackasses go full blown idiot and do a fluid change. VERY EXPENSIVE MISTAKE!!! Just because you believe it's ok to do this doesn't make you right!
I have a chance to buy a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer for $ 1,000. But, after only seeing one-third of your video, I am RUNNING AWAY. Your video reminded me of why I hate these modern, over-engineered vehicles with their $ 400 security key fobs. I better get back to doing the brakes on my 1965 Ford Galaxie where all you need to diagnose a problem is - is there air, is there spark and is there fuel.
Very informative I have a 2006 Explorer xlte,, mine will start and idle fine and shift into gear but when I push on the gas petal, there's nothing,, any ideas
Other issues on the 4.6L V8- Sway bar bushings and end links. Don’t buy MOOG - lasted 3 months. Go with Napa. Radiator, heater hose, electric fan, O2 sensor and wiring. Just to name a few.
In fact my friend and I were thinking so.etime next year of moving to Alaska we just haven't decided what area would best fit our needs but my friend has a2015 f250 super duty with an 8ft fisher mm2 plow which can come 8n handy in alaska
Great video, just bought one of these heaps from the Auction for $600.00 bucks, pretty car, Not a scratch on it, so I wondered what was wrong, seems fine, but computer was reset, clearing codes, and emissions which still has not completed, an ominous sign.
Great video Tim. When I first met my old lady, she had an 02. I can’t lie, it was almost a dealbreaker on a second date. Fortunately, her cooking skills made up for her poor vehicle choice. 😂
gtubyyy i’ve seen a lot of the heater control valves that are on the heater core hoses right before the heater core at the fire wall failing because of vacuum or it’s the valve has gone bad have done to many blend door actuator‘s in all honesty
I just cut a "door" through the plastic behind the glove box so I could manually open and close the blend door myself. I also had a unique issue with the EATC unit itself where it just stopped working completely while I was driving and of course it was the dead middle of winter so I desperately needed to use the heater. When I I looked down at it, the display just showed 888 across it and wouldn't do anything else. After trying to take the unit out of diagnostic mode which it had put itself into, and WEEKS of searching online for anyone else who's had the same issue, I finally called the Ford Stealership and was told the solenoids probably needed to be replaced but they were welded into the head unit and the work could ONLY be done by Ford. Well, Maury determined THAT was a lie because I pulled the unit out, drilled through Ford's welds, rebuilt those suckers myself, reinstalled the unit and had heat again... for about 2 weeks until the blower motor went out 🤦, but I just bought a new one and replaced it in under an hour so i decided not to totally lose my cool just yet lol.
Everything you listed I’ve replaced on my 03 lol even the transmission. But one thing that’s also very common is the A/C actuator door assembly, when faulty you can’t change the temperature of your A/C
That one is easy to replace tho. The vacuum actuated air distribution and recirculation doors are the real pain. The entire dashboard needs to come out. I've had to do it twice on mine.
Hello, in my 2010 explorer 4.6 it is loud when I turn on 4x4 hi and when it is on a 4x4 auto you can hear a slight noise when driving slowly in front of the vehicle. Does anyone know what the problem may be? Maybe a differential problem? Thank you
Thanks for the info .question my friend has a mercury mountanier 06 hass isues starting .it will take about a few times turning the key start n the radiator watter evaporates oris leaking somewhere cant find the leak .good videos
Spot on Doctor! My 04 at 163,000 had most of these problems. I have been babying the tranny for 3 years now. Not to mention the chipped paint and rust on the roof and the ominous crack below the rear wiper! But dammit, I love her.
Damn my 05 Mountaineer has the damn crack too, blown out CV's and the tranny shift indicator wont go to park, although still engages. Yesterday all 4 windows stopped working. In the shop now for a wheel bearing and the CV's, hoping the windows in the main switch coz the fuses look fine. Love the truck though! hahaa
@@yardwaste2greattaste903 Check out the video on the windows he did. The wires between the driver's door and the body are a common problem and easy to fix.
Hi, I have a 1998 Explorer with 5.0 V8, for 2 years now im getting motor oil in my coolant, It has not been a big problem but im ready to sell it and would like to fix it before that, this explorer does not have an oil cooler so I have ruled that out, I do not get water in the oil just oil in the water, I am puzzled? I may just pull over and smoke a fat one.
I've had most of the same problems on my '05. (Covered under warranty). You forgot about the fuel rail pressure sensor going out. I've done them on a few explorers/mountaineers. And what about those nice plastic heater hose tee fittings that always fall apart? (For the rear heat optioned vehicles)
@@luismota1329 everyone that I have done were found through a check engine light.(PO193). But I've never let it go long enough to notice any performance issues. (maybe a decrease in mpg)
Yes those aren't going to last ten years in any vehicle. They should cover them with something. For Christ sakes I have one that dangles on passenger side valve cover in between AC curved lines just under tb snout. It goes into firewall with a seemingly 3/16" rubber line into a ninety that goes into an egr looking canister. I know it must be giving me heat lmao..maybe thats were I'm getting the exhaust smell...lmao so tiny soooo tiny
@@420Brew I believe the line you refer to is a vacuum line that operates the blend door for the air flow through the vents. About once a year right around the cooling season, I have to go in and re-connect that line. Common symptom is the a/c will default to the defroster upon stepping on the gas (low vacuum) and the go back to the dash vents when the vacuum returns.
Ive had to do the hubs and thermostat housing also the vacuum lines going to the egr. Not major repairs, I was able to do them myself without a lot of headache. Overall good car no major issues
My 97 Mercury Mountaineer with 5.0L engine is a keeper. Check engine light has been on for 5 years, but the manager at Tires Plus told me to ignore it. The odometer has been stuck at 125K miles for 10 years. I only drive ~6K/yr. It takes a 7" round air filter, not the square one. Except for the driver's seat, it's in mint condition.
I have a 97' as well and thats why I'm here but I'm curious to know common issues with our year and model. If you find any or know of any, comment it here and let me know! Trying to keep it in good condition. My odometer stopped reading as well haha!
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My 2003 ford f150 4.6 has a #2 cylinder misfire how should I go about it diagnose and fix I hear so many different things I trust u and your advice thank u in advance
Please post a photo of said vehicle. I've never seen a Chevy Explorer Van before and I've been in the auto parts business for 13 years plus 8 years military repair parts.
Hey I just picked up a 2002 mercury mountaineer and the windows don’t work so I picked up the power window relay and can’t find where it goes or what the issue is
My 02 mountaineer AWD has a popping/binding sound when turning forward and Back. Was told Viscous Coupling but no luck with new T-case. I put new shock assembly and upper cont. arm. Still have the problem. It pretty much went away when i took of the front drive line . Any recommendations. Thank you.
Mario, I have an '03 Mountaineer, AWD, I've tracked mine down to the rear mount point of the front axle (drivers side). It gets loose and makes a god-awful clunk. Mine seems to have the wrong size bushing as there is space for it to move, others seem to be able to just tighten that bolt. Good luck.
Thank u 4 the info I just bought a ford explorer lol and thier is a leak in antifreeze in the front of the engine?? I thought it may be the water pump but then seen your vedio I start with the thermostat assembly then work my way from thier
That happened to us as well on our previous explorer (2006 4.0 5 speed less than 120000 miles) he just put a whole new engine in it. Totaled by a deer in February 2014 bought it in July 2012. Now have a 2009 same engine gearbox combo less options.
Hey I have a 08 mountaineer. With codes p0171 and p0174. Bank 1 and 2 are lean I suspect a vacuum leak. And I found a very corroded hose to the right of the throttle body going into the manifold do you know what that is called?
How about the alternator shutting down and arcing where goes through the engine and pulling down the battery also what's your theory on that and what's the what's the solution for a long time getting rid of this problem on a specially in 07 explore 4.0
I have a 2008 Explorer 4.0 four wheel drive with 130,000. Just about every weak point you have mentioned has failed including the transmission. Which I was told by a Ford mechanic that the transmission Is from a Mustang because it shifts smoother. About the timing chain guides If I change the tensioners will that prevent the guides from failing? If so at what mileage should I replace the tensioners? If not at what mileage should I replace the guides and about how much dose that cost? Thanks.
Do you know why transmission clunks and sometimes makes a squeaky noise and also sometimes when in reverse makes weird clunk sound and sometimes have the car just shut off it drives but electrical system cuts out could you help please
05 sport trac bad ground my cable is melting on alternator. Can't locate the bad ground Can't find schematics anywhere. Please help! Thanks for the videos.
I have three Explorers and i had haft these issues including the transmission servo failing causing The OD light on which is also common. Im no mechanic but I've fix all these issues thanks to youtube and the fact that I dont trust mechanics.
@@kingzzzmen7242 There are only one. The fix was a Servo sleeve repair kit. The problem is the servo shaft which is steal rubs on the aluminum housing cause pressure lost. Its a common issue with those transmission after 90k and sometimes sooner. I trans shop will not install the kit and I want to many but would rather always do rebuild it instead. If you hit me up I will give you full info.
I have a 2002 Mountaineer with a V8. I get an intermittent rough idle and it goes away for awhile but comes back with the same code for cylinder 8 missing. Tried replacing the coil etc. basic things, but can't pin down the problem.
I really need some help please u never mentioned if it dont start I replaced the starter and that was not it now it has all the dash lights go bling bling bling but it dont crank over and it dont start plz help me plz
My 1996 Ford explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 2wd Automatic kept snapping pioneer flexplates. I looked online no hp aftermarket flexplates. A couple years after abandoning the truck I had problems with a different Ford I bought a 2000 Escort SE. The flexplates broke on it also I replaced, then the new one bent. Finally I called Pioneer the flexplates company a couple of times. The flexplates in both vehicles were 1/16" steel. Finally I found out Pioneer doesn't heat treat the flexplates. That's one reason they break easier. So I heat tempered the one I put in the Ford escort and it never broke but the ignition switch in the steering column caught fire and burned the dash up and steering column. Now I am saving up for another vehicle. The third one in six years. I am not buying a Ford next time.
Hi Doc , thank you for sharing the video🙌🏻really enjoy it 🙌🏻I have a Mountaineer 2009 model alarming check brake system always appeared goes out goes in ?
I have a 2004, v6. I'm having this issue where when I get up to 55 or higher the truck starts tugging. Like it's struggling to go faster, you can visibly see the rpms jump 2000 to 2200/2300 then back down repeatedly. If you find a sweet point on the pedal you can maneuver around it but I can't figure out what it is. I took it to a transmission shop and he said it's definitely not the transmission. It's not the cat or fuel pump either
@@angelsolano5792 drop the pan, change shift solenoid pack, and replace trans fluid. Use at least one bottle of lucas oil stop slip. It will shift like new.
If I change the transmission fluid won't that make it shift worse since the new fluid would be a better lubricant than the old fluid? Causing it to basically be too slick inside? Or is that what the slip stop is for?
@@angelsolano5792 Not at all. That is just a myth. I bought an 05 exolorer that had shifting problems and new fluid and lucas oil made a world of difference. I've been working on cars for years. Whenever there is a shifting problem, fluid is the first thing I check. If the fluid is especially burnt and dark, u usually perform a fluid and filter change, then after driving for a few months, drop the fluid and change again.
I have a 2002 Mercury mountaineer my overdrive I feel like it's stuck or something's wrong with it cuz I feel like I'm on four wheel drive my tires for spin and when I turn to the right or left it makes like a like a Browning a grounding noise from from the tires up front whichever way I'm turning and it spins freely in the back so can you please help me and let me know what you think it what it is please thank you
On my 05 the heater hose, the one with the tee that goes back to the rear heater core, ruptured on a hot day. This was sort of a pain to fix because not only did the Ford factory CD rom not mention anything about this hose except that when you're removing the engine you need to take the heater hose out. The Haynes manual had no mention of it either, so I basically just had to unscrew the clamps on the 3 ends of the hose configuration, take the whole thing to AutoZone and find the same guage hose and plastic tee piece and just build a clone of it. There's no replacement part, just get the hose and the tee and make sure your clamps are tight as shit. Another stupid issue is that the duct that directs cabin airflow from defrost position to the front vents is connected to an actuator by a shitty, highly breakable piece of plastic. When this breaks it leaves the duct in a weird position and the vent pressure is heavily reduced. Unless you connect the duct to the actuator by either removing the entire front dash or removing the glove box and squeezing into the side of the dash - you'll have virtually no air blowing out of the vents. A quick fix would be to shove something under the duct to hold it up or down so that there's no air leakage but to really fix it you need to skillfully drill a hole into the duct where the plastic broke off and ziptie that to the actuator.
Question, 03 Ford Explorer XLT C1175, C1960, B1342, B1676 Codes. Instinct says a left rear wheel ABS sensor. Did some digging though and see various ABS types so now need to figure out why. Owner thinks it's the wheel bearings. I don't think it's the bearings based on the codes. Any recommendations? Can you tell me if this is the 3 wheel sensor (2 front, 1 rear) or a 4wd system? 3FA6P0H70DR286662 is the VIN# if anyone can give any better clarification on the type of antilock brake system. Thanks ahead of time!!!!
04 4.0 Explorer XLT. I take good care and keep it well maintained. Never lets me down. I feel two things are true; 1.) If you take care of something and replace things as necessary- you maximize its lifetime. 2.) You can say anything has common issues and obsessively focus on them, or just fix them- because nothing in life is a 100% guarantee.
⁹⁹⁹⁹the most 0
Great Video! I have a 2003 Ford Exploder 4x4 with 214,000 miles. You nailed most of the maintenance issues we have had with this vehicle. Although no engine or timing issues as yet we Replaced transmission at 194k miles. I would add a few...the extremely difficult diy parking brake assembly, the easy repair cruise control brake pressure sensor, lift gate cracks and hinge replacement, plastic vacuum hose assemblies under the hood which of course crack. Etc. etc.....HOWEVER, did I mention we have 214k miles. Likely near $50k to replace so I will keep saving a $600+ payment with my Ford Exploder!!
Haha ”doesnt mean pull over and smoke a fat joint” your videos just keep getting better! Educational and fun at the same time. Keep it up Tim
Haha, I almost left that line on the cutting room floor. Thanks for watching!
Definitely fire up a fatty before working on Exploder's, I find it helps while I curse the engineering flaws.
thank you! i have a 2008 merc mountaineer 4.0 that we purchased with 180k. it has 200k on it now and we're hoping for 300k. we get it serviced every 4k mi. so far it is running great. personally i hate the AWD because of the mpg and the road noise. so far it has been good and the maintenance has been less than a car payment. thanks again, this info is helpful for the maintenance plan.
My brother owned a 2001 Ford Explorer and he had terrible problems with overheating, slipping transmission and rattles, leaks...it was the worst vehicle he ever owned. Your doing a great service by pointing out some issues on that dude.
I have a '04 Mountaineer and it had many of these problems after 130k miles. I will look into the other problems that you mentioned because I'm sure that they will be next. Thank you for the valuable info. Great post.
Any updates
My '02 explorer has the 4.6 V-8 which are famous for leaking oil around the oil filter adapter which bolts onto the side of the block. Being a 4x4 with power steering, there was no way to get at the bolts holding it on so i had to drop the front differential to change the leaky gasket. While it was out, i resealed the diff and replaced the U joints, tie rod ends, front struts, CV joints and stub axles, rotors, calipers and pads, sway bar bushings, and anything else which needed it. Once it was all back together, I did the rear axle including new clutches in the locking rear end. It's like a new vehicle again with 378k on the clock! Oh yeah, to replace the front driveshaft seal in the transfer case, I had to drop the transfer case and split it to get at the seal. It's a labor of love.
Great video. I own a 2003 4.0 Explorer with 285k, bought it brand new and right on the money I've experienced most of those issues. I am getting ready to replace timing chains for the 4th time, I'm on my 4th set of wheel bearings, 2nd transmission and 2nd catalytic converter
Deeeeamn 4 timing chains? Is that two times of service cause there is two chains? Lmao gotdamn that's a lot
Lol he doesn't believe in full synthetic oil
@@adamxenon829 synthetic since day one. Not long after the original post, a chain snapped. At that point I called it quits. But the engine bottom was solid. Those plastic timing chain guides are design to break. And one of the chains is on the back of the engine, so no choice but to pull the engine out.
Somewhere along the line, Ford replaced the plastic timing chain guides with metal, after so many complaints about plastic disintegrating and ending up in the engine. I have a 2010 4x4, which I was told has the metal guides. Mine was a company lease, with 200k mostly highway miles. It does run and shift great. Turned-in company leases can be a good value, as they have usually been well-maintained and haven't been subjected to the wear and tear of in-town driving. You're right about the thermostat housing. Mine is leaking a bit, so I need to get after it. Coolant sitting on top of the engine block is another sign of this issue. Easy fix. And you're right about the wheel bearings, too. You're also right about the shifter issue. I would just add that there is a pin in the mechanism that moves in and out, allowing the shifter to either move or lock in place...activated by the brake pedal solenoid. I assumed the little circuit board in the white plastic case was the cause of my problem, when it was actually the pin that had broken inside the shifter (it is attached to the actual lever). When it breaks at the attachment point it can work it's way out and won't retract...locking the shifter in park (and not allowing you to remove the key from the ignition..and draining your battery). I'm not aware of a good fix for this, short of replacing the entire shifter console unit. I pushed the pin back in, and for now it shifts fine. This won't last, but at least I know what the problem is when it happens again. With removal of 2 screws, one can lift the console cover enough to push the pin back in. Mine has been fine for several weeks now after doing this.
I like my 2010. It's in great shape. It's quiet inside and runs smoothly... but there is some strange engineering going on with these Explorers. Lots of plastic in places where metal would have meant better reliability. I have a 1999 4Runner 4x4 with 338k on it. Runs like a Swiss watch and the build quality is far superior. I'd drive it to California tomorrow. I wouldn't feel so confident in my Explorer.
I have a 03, Explorer Sport, no major issues so far; running strong with 239k! :) thank you for the vid. Ill be on the lookout.
I got an 06 about two years ago and it’s been the best vehicle/suv I’ve ever owned and it’s about to hit 200k miles and I’ve had any problems with it yet so it’s been a good one
Same! Second owner of an 06 4.0. Like it more than my newer Toyota Highlander
Wow... other than the dozens of common problems you mentioned it looks like the Exploder is a superbly engineered machine! Ford.. you have done it again, and your reputation for "fix or repair daily" stands firm.
Dave Allen first and second generation explorers are much better than these shit boxes
My 2004 Explorer has 130,000 miles on it currently. So far everything has been rock solid except for the front wheel bearings which are just starting to rumble. I ordered a set of Moog replacements and will replace them soon. Many of these problems are lack of maintenance related issues. I have no leaks or wet spots around the rear diff, actually no leaks anywhere at all. I did have to replace the thermostat housing around 100,000 miles. Super easy and open access. I change all of the fluids regularly. Engine oil, trans fluid, transfer case, rear diff, coolant, power steering and brake fluid. I usually chang the engine oil every 8k with 5-w30 mobile 1 synthetic or whatever synthetic is on sale. I always make sure to use an OEM Motorcraft oil filter. I do a transmission pan drop and fill with filter every 30,000 miles and only use OEM Motorcraft Mercon V trans fluid. For the front and rear diffs I use fully synthetic 80/140 gear oil and the transfer case gets Mercon trans fluid. Never use Mercon V in the transfer case. Oh yeah, original brake rotors all around and not warped. I'm easy on my brakes and use the O/D overdrive off for engine braking whenever I'm going down a steep hill to conserve the brake pads. Especially when towing.
This post is 4 years old. Use what oil you want to use
The 5.0 litre V8 on the 2000 model has been really solid. Always runs, never had a check engine light. If you have a light foot you can get over 20 mpg. Step on it and you will get about 18.
Let me know if you want to sell it
@@jeff-wv8te I now have 235k miles on that Explorer and the rear brakes are in need of replacement. All highway miles. Those are original pads from new. The emergency brake cable must have been hanging up as those brake shoes are entirely gone. (Rear disks with built in shoes for the emergency brake). Not sure how that happened as i never, ever use the emergency brake. The passenger side rear axle seal was also leaking oil into the brake. Other side ok. So I have it all apart and have all the new parts including new brake cables. Will be replacing both axle seals while it's apart. I have a 2010 Explorer 4.6 V8 that I drive while the old one is being repaired.
@@northdakotaham1752 great. Ive owned a 5.0, 1997 and 1999 mountaineer. Now i own a 2000 5.0 mountaineer with 248k miles. Good truck except door and window controls and dome light (door ajar) electric always messes up after 100k miles so i just rewire switches as theu ware out. I have a 2003 explorer 86k miles, with a 2004 4.6. I cant figure out why my CHT sensore keeps shutting my vehical off. Tgats why i am searching yputube videos today. Have a good week.
I have two Explorers and an Aviator,
2003 Explorer awd 4.0 190,000
have owned this 5 years and 50,000 miles
have replaced brakes only and one front axle. Plus regular maintenance, oil changes transmission fluid.
Currently needs axle seal replaced and upper control arms front due to rust, but all joints are solid.
2004 Explorer 4wd 4.0 has 309,000 has been well maintained bought used recently. have all maintenance records. plus what I have done
4 wheel bearings were replaced
brakes all around 3 times.
8 sets of tires.
Rear differential has been resealed two times. It is getting timing chain slap now, probably needs engine pulled out and timing done. burns no oil shifts great.
Transfer case shift motor has failed two times. fuel pressure monitoring sensor failed before.
All electrical switches in both Explorers work windows work never had the doors apart. no issues. all options work as designed
The 2003 aviator 2wd 4.6 v8 181,000 has had a bad water pump in the past needs a wheel bearing runs and drives great. power steering pump is noisy. annoyingly the paint has worn off lots of buttons inside and some switches need replaced. door ajar switch failed on driver door needs replaced.
Very happy with my 09 4.6L. No issues other than the wheel bearings as mentioned.
2004 4.0 here. I have 200k+ miles. Issues I have had is the thermostat housing twice, trailing arms twice, EGR valve, front & rear wheel bearings, muffler+rear tailpipe above rear end+ clamp before muffler rusted in pieces. Just did intake gasket, valve cover gaskets, EGR valve, coilpack, wires & plugs. Improved performance now but problem that I still have is rough idle. I am guessing probably a vacuum leak somewhere. I know idler pulley is making noise. Oh and another thing is charging system light flickers on & off & beeping over & over again driving you nuts going down the road. I just seen people talk about the plug on the alternator doesn't make the best of connection so you have to tweak the prongs a lil. I will do that tomorrow. But as for a vacuum leaks have you seen any common issues that I may want to look at for the rough idle?
Errr, al 4.6l motors are V-8's. 0:48
@Mike H he said " a 4.6 liter and even a V8. Just helping to clarify, especially since he is presenting this as a teaching video. Down boy...
@Mike H sorry, "all"
@@thomcasey2005 any idiot could understand what you meant except the idiot above who wanted to be a dick! LOL!!
Hello, great info. What about an o8 mercury mountaineer w/ a 4.0
That info applies to these models as Well? And how difficult it is to replace the rack and pinion on my 08 mountaineer? Thank You. Hello from Sonora Mexico.
407,000ish kms on my 4.6 2002 explorer here east coast Nova Scotia. Happy Sunday.
2006 233k miles , original motor , just recently replaced the transmission, I over hearted the motor like 2 x lol and still runs strong as shit with no leaks . Been driving it everyday since 2010 when I bought it
Hi. I hear there is another common issue I would like to see a vid on. My 09 explorer had a rear door glass ajar even though it was closed and the interior light would not go out. I was forced to pull a fuse from under the dash to turn it off. It would be great if you could post a vid covering the diagnosis and repair of this issue.
Thats quite interesting cause I thought my door was vibrating loosely as I shut it.
Turns out the seal(perfectly fine unless its stretched) for my window is not staying on.
Good luck with your issue
Great video. Question any problems with when you driving it drive loosely. Just some times. Feel like tires gone come off. What seem to be the problem
It can happen to any vehicle ,it is part of life. My 02 ford explorer 4.0 has 168,000 on it and runs great.
Thank you for the video. I think you covered everything I have ever had to fix/replace lol
Always pick the 4.6L V8! At least if something fails you can actually fix it without removing the entire engine!
Unfortunately most explorers came with the 4.0L V6.
AH4600 I have 2 2005s with the 4.6, love them both
teflon won I own an 06 4.6 I love it
Yeah, that rear timing chain is a bitch! WTF were Ford's engineers thinking?
@@andrewhatton1606 I test drove one and fell in love with it. An 06 v8 mounty. It isn't perfect but I think it is better than a lot of competition. The v8 and its trans could be another carmaker vs the 4.0.
alb12345672 they really get up and move. Exhaust tune and intake and pulleys wake up the 2v
I got a code PO461 for 2002 mercury mountaineer but need some guidance on repairing it. Is there a video that can help with that?
We had problems with the Air Conditioner. When the vacuum lines get brittle and break it prevents airflow control for the main and lower vents keeping the air on the windshield only. Also, the EGR vacuum lines and A/C vacuum control lines are controlled by a check valve. If it fails it's an easy, inexpensive fix some mechanics won't tell you about.
I have a. 1998 Ford explorer. Three hundred thousand. Miles. On it. No. Repairs. Only. A. Starter replacement. Best. Vehicle. I've ever. Owned.
LOL I have Two 2006 explorer EddieB in my driveway, One is always running :)
one has 206k and the other has 223k, I love this truck and the gas mileage for a 5000lbs solid truck I get 22+MPG on both with nothing aftermarket added!
I just had an issue Cyl 3 misfire it turned out to be the Coil Pack
did I say I love this truck, I have been all over the country in it
Are those V8 or V6
@@Trucker2083 4.0 V6 with the 5r55s tranny
I've replaced a few of the thermostat housings. Ha! shift lock solenoids, quite a few stories on those like one towed from another shop where the frustrated mechanic apparently used brute force when it stalled in traffic and broke the whole assembly. (Exploder, isn't that correct? I've been calling them that for years). There is an actual slot in the lower cover where you can push a key up in to release it.
Nice!
I have an 03 XLT with the 4.0 and 158k miles, it has every single problem you mentioned except for the timing chain (fingers crossed) but it refuses to die!
Same here 2003, I got the timing chain problem tho lol but sob just doesn't stop man.. Ive had it like that for the last 30k miles, it just hit 200k this week. My 2014 Dodge on the first failure I had to junk it... I dont know if I would classify this car as "non reliable", I mean.... somebody that gets shit done no matter what sounds reliable af to me 🤷♂️
The vehicle that someone calls a Ford Exploder isn’t an Explorer. It’s was a Ford Freestyle.
great show easy to listen too. did my bearings after humming.
Could you tell me more about the key failure along with the module or what makes the car shut off while you driving down the road seems to reset with the alarm almost like a starter solenoid problem
Was the plastic cover still on the battery post?
Yeah that cover ( is it metal?) gripped in the battery cable terminal, I would think the cover wouldn't allow the terminal to tighten up properly on the battery post?
mr tim I did some trading on a 2003 mountaineer 4.6l rear freeze plug gone one rubber quickie on left side that I saw that I can see from under the bottom on the good lift like you got your the reason I bout another eagle four post lift 12k this time but but they robed the starter going to put the starter on first if car runs shut it down remove transmission install freeze plugs do think they over heated the engine or just mixing the wrong antifreeze back in the day the rear freeze plug bore is as clean as you took it out weird no rust west tn the engine is super clean the rad is clean how did the freeze plug fall out you thoughts
Thanks for the video. Definitely scratched a used Explorer off my list of used SUV's to buy. Man, what was thinking?
I you thinking of one i get the 4.6 v8 6 speed. Yes the 4.0 v6 5 speed is sluggish and hesitant and once had that coolant leak from the thermostat from a 2006 model, currently haver a 09 4.0 and before that an 06 with same engine.
Hi Tim, Good video. I have a misfiring issue with Ford explorer 2010 4 ltr and the engine specially under idle condition vibrates. I have had plugs and its wires changed with Oxygen sensors but the problem still exists. could it be vacuum hoses problem?
2005 whole engine shakes. Just spent 2500 on a tranny
Did you buy OEM parts?
what about the 2005 ford explorer 4.0 front differential 3.55 8.8 problems along with the passanger side cv axle problems? please show a video with these issues?
Thanks Tim. We have the same one as the gray one. We had to have the rear end replaced under warranty and again later because according to Ford, if all four tires are not EXACTLY the same circumference, it will destroy the rear end. It apparently locks both wheels together because it thinks you need better traction. This is a problem when you are trying to back out of a parking space. It can also try to force it in to four wheel drive a 65 Miles per hour. BTW, we also experienced most of the other things you talked about. On the other hand it now has 290 K miles on it.
My car is having the front coolant leaking issue, is this video also pertain to the 2006 Mercury Mariner 3.0 ??
Jhennessy De-La-Fuente no that's a different engine put the thermostat is plastic I'd look right where the engine and trans meet under the throttle body
Hey do u have a video on a no crank no start on a 2006 ford explorer Eddie edition 4.6l
Check the pcm or like Tim said the diodes in your key aren't reading.
They read off of ohms! You get them around high voltage or frequency areas it could mess it up!
Do you have any videos on the 2015 Ford escape transmission problem thank you very much you can Alyssa really help
I just bought a 2001 mecury mountianer yesterday. I was under the impression that it is basicly a ford explorer.
It has a 5.0 v-8 and all wheel drive with an automatic transmission.
Any information would be great
Yes. It’s an exploder. Nice rig!
You got yourself a solid vehicle especially for work or something to work on. That 302 is still pretty sought after interns of how strong it is and how long it’ll last. I got a 99 with the 5.0 20 years and just under 190k miles still holds strong. I’m thinking to start upgrades the engine and work my way through the truck.
My 4.0 has 220k runs great its all about taking care of your stuff my olds bervada 4.3l blew up at 150k
Some time you take care and they will fail on you just because, I have a 1998 explorer with only 126k miles on it been on the family since 45k miles , really well take car off , but the timing chain failed , so is not always "if you"
@Super Hero timing chain gonna fail at some point the best explorers are 91 to 99 efi engines i got 5 of them
Help! My exploder Exploded! It damaged the charging system, fuel pressure rail, the transmission, the airbag and the tire pressure sensor
My '07 Mountaineer is locking and unlocking like it is possessed. It is also causing the horn to beep like I am locking the car. Any ideas what the problem is?
I have a 2003 mountaineer , & mine does the same , Took it to the Ford Dealer & they said my vehicle Security module is Failing & to Replace it . Went on eBay , it's sell for $ 30.00 . I am still waiting on it to come in the mail , so , I can Replace it out . Let's see what Happens . Also , Since then my Vehicle has been Intermittent Dying out when Driving . Very Unsafe--
@@MM-qq9ox please let me know how it goes. This would be awesome if I could fix my car for $30
I'll put this on do not buy list, thanks for the info.
I own a 2004 Explore watching your video is déjà vu everything that you discussed in your video I've already had a problem with I replaced on my vehicle. The thermostat housing leaked on vacation we barely made it to the repair shop, matter fact we had it towed did not want to overheat the engine. The transmission has been rebuilt, the differential has been rebuilt, all for struts replaced. And here's one for the books, the harmonic balance blew a part, lucky the fan belt could ride on the metal part just enough to safely get us to a shop. Also upper control arm bushings wore out, Ford only supplies it with a new control arm. I got 119,000 miles, and my mechanic says you know after hundred thousand miles you start having trouble, I told him no problem. All these problems I have with my car all happened between 30 and 80,000 miles.
2002 ford explorer 325,000 miles..change oil, transmission fluid,battery brake fluid, power steering fluid...it will last...
Changing the fluid on a high milage transmission is a hot lead enema!!!
Flushing the trans is even worse!
That fresh trans fluid will do soooo much damage to the seals etc that you will have absolute trans failure in 500 to 1000 miles!
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Thats an exception,not the rule. These cars are notoriously unreliable
Apparently they don't have annual vehicle safety and emissions tests required where you're from.
@@dexterlovejoy2855 that is completely untrue... if you think changing the fluid will cause damage, the transmission is already damaged and is being masked by metal particulates in trashed fluid. If a transmission is maintained and fluid is changed regularly, changing it with high miles won't hurt anything.
@@JM811Cars you obviously have never had a high mile transmission.
If you've been changing the fluid every 20K, you won't have the adverse effects as much. This is why mechanics will recommend drawing out a quart and adding a quart if you really feel its dark tranny fluid. Even then, just because it's dark doesn't mean it's dirty or burnt.
Just discoloration from old seals. It doesn't effect the performance of the fluid. This is where jackasses go full blown idiot and do a fluid change.
VERY EXPENSIVE MISTAKE!!!
Just because you believe it's ok to do this doesn't make you right!
I have a chance to buy a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer for $ 1,000. But, after only seeing one-third of your video, I am RUNNING AWAY. Your video reminded me of why I hate these modern, over-engineered vehicles with their $ 400 security key fobs. I better get back to doing the brakes on my 1965 Ford Galaxie where all you need to diagnose a problem is - is there air, is there spark and is there fuel.
Thanks Tim, this should help a lot of people!
Very informative I have a 2006 Explorer xlte,, mine will start and idle fine and shift into gear but when I push on the gas petal, there's nothing,, any ideas
Other issues on the 4.6L V8- Sway bar bushings and end links. Don’t buy MOOG - lasted 3 months. Go with Napa. Radiator, heater hose, electric fan, O2 sensor and wiring. Just to name a few.
We need more people like you in mew hampshire
You’re too kind. I’m sure there are some great techs down there.
In fact my friend and I were thinking so.etime next year of moving to Alaska we just haven't decided what area would best fit our needs but my friend has a2015 f250 super duty with an 8ft fisher mm2 plow which can come 8n handy in alaska
Great video, just bought one of these heaps from the Auction for $600.00 bucks, pretty car, Not a scratch on it, so I wondered what was wrong, seems fine, but computer was reset, clearing codes, and emissions which still has not completed, an ominous sign.
Sell it get a 97 model efi engine best explorer ever made 4.0 no timing chain problems
In a awd if awd goes out an you only have rear wheel drive will it affect the way it shifts
Maybe
Great video Tim. When I first met my old lady, she had an 02. I can’t lie, it was almost a dealbreaker on a second date. Fortunately, her cooking skills made up for her poor vehicle choice. 😂
She sounds like a keeper!
I have an intermittent rough grinding noise in my 02 ford explorer I can't tell if it's the wheel bearings or drive shaft bearings
BLEND DOOR FAILING RESULTING IN HEAT IN SUMMER OR OF COURSE AC IN WINTER
Ah yes! Love having A/C when it’s -20F haha.
gtubyyy i’ve seen a lot of the heater control valves that are on the heater core hoses right before the heater core at the fire wall failing because of vacuum or it’s the valve has gone bad have done to many blend door actuator‘s in all honesty
Or exhaust. My woman chews me out. Lmao
The rear door seal!! Thinking adding some padding..lmao..the seal looks great..dam$75 for a new one
I just cut a "door" through the plastic behind the glove box so I could manually open and close the blend door myself. I also had a unique issue with the EATC unit itself where it just stopped working completely while I was driving and of course it was the dead middle of winter so I desperately needed to use the heater. When I I looked down at it, the display just showed 888 across it and wouldn't do anything else. After trying to take the unit out of diagnostic mode which it had put itself into, and WEEKS of searching online for anyone else who's had the same issue, I finally called the Ford Stealership and was told the solenoids probably needed to be replaced but they were welded into the head unit and the work could ONLY be done by Ford. Well, Maury determined THAT was a lie because I pulled the unit out, drilled through Ford's welds, rebuilt those suckers myself, reinstalled the unit and had heat again... for about 2 weeks until the blower motor went out 🤦, but I just bought a new one and replaced it in under an hour so i decided not to totally lose my cool just yet lol.
Everything you listed I’ve replaced on my 03 lol even the transmission. But one thing that’s also very common is the A/C actuator door assembly, when faulty you can’t change the temperature of your A/C
That one is easy to replace tho.
The vacuum actuated air distribution and recirculation doors are the real pain. The entire dashboard needs to come out.
I've had to do it twice on mine.
We had the same problem on an '02.
Im having it in my 98 mountaineer
Hello, in my 2010 explorer 4.6 it is loud when I turn on 4x4 hi and when it is on a 4x4 auto you can hear a slight noise when driving slowly in front of the vehicle. Does anyone know what the problem may be? Maybe a differential problem?
Thank you
Thanks for the info .question my friend has a mercury mountanier 06 hass isues starting .it will take about a few times turning the key start n the radiator watter evaporates oris leaking somewhere cant find the leak .good videos
I'm 60 woman clean radiator and reaĺ thermostat or it leaks and tranny has something to do with it. F after market. My issue
Spot on Doctor! My 04 at 163,000 had most of these problems. I have been babying the tranny for 3 years now. Not to mention the chipped paint and rust on the roof and the ominous crack below the rear wiper! But dammit, I love her.
Damn my 05 Mountaineer has the damn crack too, blown out CV's and the tranny shift indicator wont go to park, although still engages. Yesterday all 4 windows stopped working. In the shop now for a wheel bearing and the CV's, hoping the windows in the main switch coz the fuses look fine. Love the truck though! hahaa
@@yardwaste2greattaste903 Check out the video on the windows he did. The wires between the driver's door and the body are a common problem and easy to fix.
What do you know about the 10mm bolt on top of the rear diff?
Hi, I have a 1998 Explorer with 5.0 V8, for 2 years now im getting motor oil in my coolant, It has not been a big problem but im ready to sell it and would like to fix it before that, this explorer does not have an oil cooler so I have ruled that out, I do not get water in the oil just oil in the water, I am puzzled? I may just pull over and smoke a fat one.
Sounds like you need a new radiator
I've had most of the same problems on my '05. (Covered under warranty). You forgot about the fuel rail pressure sensor going out. I've done them on a few explorers/mountaineers.
And what about those nice plastic heater hose tee fittings that always fall apart? (For the rear heat optioned vehicles)
What's are the symptoms of a bar fuel rail pressure sensor going out ?
@@luismota1329 everyone that I have done were found through a check engine light.(PO193).
But I've never let it go long enough to notice any performance issues.
(maybe a decrease in mpg)
Yes those aren't going to last ten years in any vehicle. They should cover them with something. For Christ sakes I have one that dangles on passenger side valve cover in between AC curved lines just under tb snout. It goes into firewall with a seemingly 3/16" rubber line into a ninety that goes into an egr looking canister. I know it must be giving me heat lmao..maybe thats were I'm getting the exhaust smell...lmao so tiny soooo tiny
@@420Brew I believe the line you refer to is a vacuum line that operates the blend door for the air flow through the vents.
About once a year right around the cooling season, I have to go in and re-connect that line. Common symptom is the a/c will default to the defroster upon stepping on the gas (low vacuum) and the go back to the dash vents when the vacuum returns.
Ive had to do the hubs and thermostat housing also the vacuum lines going to the egr. Not major repairs, I was able to do them myself without a lot of headache. Overall good car no major issues
My 97 Mercury Mountaineer with 5.0L engine is a keeper. Check engine light has been on for 5 years, but the manager at Tires Plus told me to ignore it. The odometer has been stuck at 125K miles for 10 years. I only drive ~6K/yr. It takes a 7" round air filter, not the square one. Except for the driver's seat, it's in mint condition.
I have a 97' as well and thats why I'm here but I'm curious to know common issues with our year and model. If you find any or know of any, comment it here and let me know! Trying to keep it in good condition. My odometer stopped reading as well haha!
My 2003 ford f150 4.6 has a #2 cylinder misfire how should I go about it diagnose and fix I hear so many different things I trust u and your advice thank u in advance
September 22nd 2018 do you have any videos of 2001 Chevy Explorer vans and how to go about fixing them
Unfortunately no, I have not had the pleasure of working on one of those fine vehicles.
Please post a photo of said vehicle. I've never seen a Chevy Explorer Van before and I've been in the auto parts business for 13 years plus 8 years military repair parts.
Hey I just picked up a 2002 mercury mountaineer and the windows don’t work so I picked up the power window relay and can’t find where it goes or what the issue is
He cracked me up with the #420 code!!!
Hi. I change the 4 oxigen sensors in my 2010 for explorer and still have 2 codes on could you help me please
What common issues does the all wheel drive have? I've got a friend with an 06 mountaineer that doesn't have all wheel drive
Do 4.6 L V8 have less problems?
I LIKE WATCHING THIS GUY BECAUSE I WORK ON CARS ALOS AND SEE THE SAME THING
Got one 255k engine strong. Sure bearings ball joints, struts
She still rocking
also what sice socket is the bolt heads on the crankshaft sensor
My 02 mountaineer AWD has a popping/binding sound when turning forward and Back. Was told Viscous Coupling but no luck with new T-case. I put new shock assembly and upper cont. arm. Still have the problem. It pretty much went away when i took of the front drive line . Any recommendations. Thank you.
Mario, I have an '03 Mountaineer, AWD, I've tracked mine down to the rear mount point of the front axle (drivers side). It gets loose and makes a god-awful clunk. Mine seems to have the wrong size bushing as there is space for it to move, others seem to be able to just tighten that bolt. Good luck.
Looking for a video for a 04 mercury mountaineer burning fuel fast
3rd and 4th generation what years are you talking about?
Thank u 4 the info I just bought a ford explorer lol and thier is a leak in antifreeze in the front of the engine?? I thought it may be the water pump but then seen your vedio I start with the thermostat assembly then work my way from thier
That happened to us as well on our previous explorer (2006 4.0 5 speed less than 120000 miles) he just put a whole new engine in it. Totaled by a deer in February 2014 bought it in July 2012. Now have a 2009 same engine gearbox combo less options.
Hey I have a 08 mountaineer. With codes p0171 and p0174. Bank 1 and 2 are lean I suspect a vacuum leak. And I found a very corroded hose to the right of the throttle body going into the manifold do you know what that is called?
How about the alternator shutting down and arcing where goes through the engine and pulling down the battery also what's your theory on that and what's the what's the solution for a long time getting rid of this problem on a specially in 07 explore 4.0
I have a 2008 Explorer 4.0 four wheel drive with 130,000. Just about every weak point you have mentioned has failed including the transmission. Which I was told by a Ford mechanic that the transmission Is from a Mustang because it shifts smoother. About the timing chain guides If I change the tensioners will that prevent the guides from failing? If so at what mileage should I replace the tensioners? If not at what mileage should I replace the guides and about how much dose that cost? Thanks.
Do you know why transmission clunks and sometimes makes a squeaky noise and also sometimes when in reverse makes weird clunk sound and sometimes have the car just shut off it drives but electrical system cuts out could you help please
05 sport trac bad ground my cable is melting on alternator. Can't locate the bad ground Can't find schematics anywhere. Please help! Thanks for the videos.
I have three Explorers and i had haft these issues including the transmission servo failing causing
The OD light on which is also common. Im no mechanic but I've fix all these issues thanks to youtube and the fact that I dont trust mechanics.
The statement about not trusting mechanics, that's a very true statement.
which servo did you replace?
@@kingzzzmen7242 There are only one. The fix was a Servo sleeve repair kit. The problem is the servo shaft which is steal rubs on the aluminum housing cause pressure lost. Its a common issue with those transmission after 90k and sometimes sooner. I trans shop will not install the kit and I want to many but would rather always do rebuild it instead. If you hit me up I will give you full info.
Danie James whats your email
Danietec06@yahoo.com
I have a 2002 Mountaineer with a V8. I get an intermittent rough idle and it goes away for awhile but comes back with the same code for cylinder 8 missing. Tried replacing the coil etc. basic things, but can't pin down the problem.
Crud
What would cause a 4th gen v6. From stop to 45mph a slight jerk that slowly pulsates then its fine?
My defrost is not working well anymore it still heats up buy doesnt defrost well and I have noticed I had to add engine coolant ? Any suggestions
I really need some help please u never mentioned if it dont start I replaced the starter and that was not it now it has all the dash lights go bling bling bling but it dont crank over and it dont start plz help me plz
Check the chip on your key, they tend to fail as well.
My 1996 Ford explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 2wd Automatic kept snapping pioneer flexplates. I looked online no hp aftermarket flexplates. A couple years after abandoning the truck I had problems with a different Ford I bought a 2000 Escort SE. The flexplates broke on it also I replaced, then the new one bent. Finally I called Pioneer the flexplates company a couple of times. The flexplates in both vehicles were 1/16" steel. Finally I found out Pioneer doesn't heat treat the flexplates. That's one reason they break easier. So I heat tempered the one I put in the Ford escort and it never broke but the ignition switch in the steering column caught fire and burned the dash up and steering column. Now I am saving up for another vehicle. The third one in six years. I am not buying a Ford next time.
You better dont
Hi Doc , thank you for sharing the video🙌🏻really enjoy it 🙌🏻I have a Mountaineer 2009 model alarming check brake system always appeared goes out goes in ?
Nice review in the explorer..wish I. would have watched this before I bought mine..
I have a 2004, v6. I'm having this issue where when I get up to 55 or higher the truck starts tugging. Like it's struggling to go faster, you can visibly see the rpms jump 2000 to 2200/2300 then back down repeatedly. If you find a sweet point on the pedal you can maneuver around it but I can't figure out what it is. I took it to a transmission shop and he said it's definitely not the transmission. It's not the cat or fuel pump either
Fuel filter. Guaranteed. Had this issue on many vehicles. Believe it or not a bad or clogged fuel filter can cause a lot of drivability issues.
Transmissions slipping now at 190000 miles so it's kinda been on the back burner for now
@@angelsolano5792 drop the pan, change shift solenoid pack, and replace trans fluid. Use at least one bottle of lucas oil stop slip. It will shift like new.
If I change the transmission fluid won't that make it shift worse since the new fluid would be a better lubricant than the old fluid? Causing it to basically be too slick inside? Or is that what the slip stop is for?
@@angelsolano5792 Not at all. That is just a myth. I bought an 05 exolorer that had shifting problems and new fluid and lucas oil made a world of difference. I've been working on cars for years. Whenever there is a shifting problem, fluid is the first thing I check. If the fluid is especially burnt and dark, u usually perform a fluid and filter change, then after driving for a few months, drop the fluid and change again.
I have a 2002 Mercury mountaineer my overdrive I feel like it's stuck or something's wrong with it cuz I feel like I'm on four wheel drive my tires for spin and when I turn to the right or left it makes like a like a Browning a grounding noise from from the tires up front whichever way I'm turning and it spins freely in the back so can you please help me and let me know what you think it what it is please thank you
On my 05 the heater hose, the one with the tee that goes back to the rear heater core, ruptured on a hot day. This was sort of a pain to fix because not only did the Ford factory CD rom not mention anything about this hose except that when you're removing the engine you need to take the heater hose out. The Haynes manual had no mention of it either, so I basically just had to unscrew the clamps on the 3 ends of the hose configuration, take the whole thing to AutoZone and find the same guage hose and plastic tee piece and just build a clone of it. There's no replacement part, just get the hose and the tee and make sure your clamps are tight as shit.
Another stupid issue is that the duct that directs cabin airflow from defrost position to the front vents is connected to an actuator by a shitty, highly breakable piece of plastic. When this breaks it leaves the duct in a weird position and the vent pressure is heavily reduced. Unless you connect the duct to the actuator by either removing the entire front dash or removing the glove box and squeezing into the side of the dash - you'll have virtually no air blowing out of the vents. A quick fix would be to shove something under the duct to hold it up or down so that there's no air leakage but to really fix it you need to skillfully drill a hole into the duct where the plastic broke off and ziptie that to the actuator.
Question, 03 Ford Explorer XLT C1175, C1960, B1342, B1676 Codes.
Instinct says a left rear wheel ABS sensor. Did some digging though and see various ABS types so now need to figure out why.
Owner thinks it's the wheel bearings. I don't think it's the bearings based on the codes.
Any recommendations? Can you tell me if this is the 3 wheel sensor (2 front, 1 rear) or a 4wd system?
3FA6P0H70DR286662 is the VIN# if anyone can give any better clarification on the type of antilock brake system. Thanks ahead of time!!!!
If your gear selector locks there is a button under the steering column just push it in. If your alarm goes off randomly spray door latches with WD 40