MGB Cylinder Head Re Fitting With Step by Step Instructions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Please consider joining the channel for more racing and DIY videos: / @davidrussellwilks
It's a bit later in the season than planned but I fitted the refreshed cylinder head back to my car this weekend.
Any questions are always welcome, I tried to make the video detailed but not overly long, how. Generally all the work went to plan, there are a few bookmarks here that may help if there are specific details you require
01:40 Head gasket choice: Payen or Multi-Layer Shim
02:30 Preparing the engine block
18:22 Torque settings and tightening order for the cylinder head studs
34:50 Setting the tappets/ valve adjustment, I should add that I run a race cam on my car, for a standard cam a clearance of around 0.013" (hot) or 0.015" (cold) should be ideal.
40:57 cleaning spark plugs
I'm really trying to push my TH-cam channel forward for 2020, if you like the videos it would help me immensely if you would be kind enough to subscribe to my channel.
Massive thanks to www.opieoils.co.uk/ for all the lubricants and brake fluids etc. I buy the Silkolene Pro-Cool and Silkolene Comp 4 20-50 oil from them.
Big thanks to my sponsors for 2020, www.schroth.com for the fantastic Flexi 2x2 harness, www.bg-racing.co.uk for the set up equipment - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Dude, thank you for the extra time and effort to show us how it is done. You are the man.
Many thanks for your kind message, glad you are enjoying the videos!
Sliding on the head does get you your core workout for the day!!
A pleasure to watch your near-surgical procedure and faultless technique; textbook book accuracy and you made it look like fun! Very well done! You cleared up a set of questions I've had for a long while on these engines.
Thanks so much!
Great video! Every step covered in detail without dragging out the obvious. Looking forward to watching the rest to restore my reacquired 67 mgb from my high school/college days. Thank you!
Many thanks it's always hard to know exactly how much detail to put in. Hope your restoration goes well.
Sure wish my engine looked like that! Thanks for the video! Very helpful in swapping out my head gasket over the weekend. Cheers:)
Many thanks Mike, it's always great to hear that a video has been useful.
Excellent series of videos that you’ve been making. Very well explained and concise. They’ve been very useful for my MGB project car.
Many thanks for your kind message, delighted to hear that the videos have been useful to you. Hope that all is going well with your project. I'm hoping to make some more videos this weekend, clutch bleeding with any luck....
Perfect timing about to put my mgb's head on this week!
Great stuff Rob, hope all goes well with the re-fit
@@davidrussellwilks it did, valve was burnt and seats were a little iffy, but came together nicely and seats ground out ok with grinding compound...
Huge thanks for this David. My ‘70 MGB had the head gasket go, so I’ve used your step by step videos to guide me through the correct process for removal, painting (same colour!) and refitting.
Really good to hear that Peter, glad that the video helped
Really enjoyed watching this very well detailed step step step guide to refitting the cylinder head. I've never seen spark plugs cleaned up with a blow touch before now, I've always done them with a wire brush, as they say more then one way to skin a cat
I used to use a wire brush, but my original engine builder told me not to just in case any bits of wire got stuck on them. I do find the blow torch method more fun!
Fantastic videos. Hopefully word will get out about how good and informative your videos are and your subscription numbers will shoot up.
Great step by step guide... You make it look so easy. My 1978 mgb needs a new head gasket you've inspired me to have a go myself 🤔
There is a head removal guide on the channel too Gregory too. I was worried when I first did the job, but very glad that I tried!
Thanks for posting. Later
Excellent video. Well presented and very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
you have the most informative videos on youtube! love it!
Many thanks for your kind message Ricky, glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos
Great videos! Keep up the good work. You make the best MGB videos on TH-cam. You’ve helped me do a lot of work on my 78 B.
Many thanks for your message Ethan, your comment really does mean a great deal. Delighted to hear that you are enjoying the videos, I hope to be making more soon!
These videos are just a fantastic resource and enjoyable to watch. Keep them coming! Good luck on the track.
Thanks, will do!
Thanks Mr. Russell-Wilks, well done!
You are very welcome
Great video, now the season’s over I’d love to see a guide to de-coking the head & tops of pistons! I’ve just used this video to do the head gasket on my 66 B GT, despite working with racing cars on a daily basis it’s always good to make sure I’m re-assembling in the right order.
Keen to know more about the spec of your engine!
All the best & many thanks.
Many thanks for your message, de-coking is not something I have ever done on my engine. The whole engine is refreshed and rebuilt every two years by an engine specialist in Northampton.
In terms of spec for the engine its 1840cc with a race head, steel billet crank, steel rods and JE pistons. There is a good page on the car here, the engine is 2014 was a 1950cc though. www.britishracecar.com/DavidRussellWilks-MG-MGB.htm
Cleanliness is next to Godliness: how many times parts are wiped clean; welldone....
Many thanks!
@@davidrussellwilks You're welcome, it is praise duly earned :-D on
Excellent work David. Really enjoyed watching the video. R
Many thanks Rod, hope that all is good with you? Are you hoping to be at Donington in July (if it goes ahead)
Have sent you a PM David (by SMS)
After all only three remarks (maybe not needed, I did not check further down in the list):
1) torque values on the headnuts were raised by BL by TSB from 45-50lbf max, to 50-55lbf. Meaning torqueing up to 55lbf max, of slightly below 75 Nm is permitted with their blessing
2) on later engines underneath the two middle rocker shaft pedestals two special shims were placed and for later engines when refurbished in any way, BL advised the same mod
3) assuring the thermostat housing studs are firmly lodged in their threaded holes assures complete sealing, without any sealant being necessary. Furthermore, NOT using the re-usable Klingersill gasket, but a cork one obviates the sealant option completely as well: cork swells up and torqueing slightly up after a single heating cycle is enough to last
Thanx once more and I will follow in your footsteps in a manner of speaking for sure 🙂
Came here to see about compression testing. I’m really happy I did - your work is meticulous and done under immaculate conditions - the way my father would insist! (We’re from Derby, and his generation were taught every single millimetre of mechanics and with precision)
Sorry, I got off topic…missing him, because he was my Number 1 resource for all MG-related problems.
So..Q/ I did a cold compression test today on my 67 MGB GT, and I got an average of 160 psi, on each cylinder.
Am I correct, that that is a low number(s) and indicative of some work to do? But…what work? Is it rings? Cylinder head? Who knows?
My car was re-done by the previous owner, around 1985. I purchased it in 1988, and the next year I shipped it here to Canada. Drove it for a few years but then I put it away for 18 years (gasp)! I drove it Sept, October, November of 2021, then it went into winter storage until end of April 2022.
So this year is its full driving season, and I use it as my ‘daily driver.’ I’ve been zipping around like Nigel Mansell (without his calibre of skill), and enjoying the car.
But a few things have materialized this last month. Running on.. which now seems to have corrected itself with high test fuel and occasional oil stabilizer… A radiator leak on the lower tank of the rad… and a no start situation. However, today I removed the distributor cap cleaned it out and dried it, it’s in very good condition because it was new since last August, took the plugs out and cleaned them and the car fired up immediately.
My last comment is regarding a clutch master cylinder. Unbeknownst to me I was sold the 68 and onward master cylinder which is slightly cocked on an angle. I will have to take it out and get the 67 non-cocked clutch master cylinder and do the job again.
BUT! … although the incorrect clutch master cylinder Was installed, when I brought the car home from the shop last week I enjoyed three days of wonderful shifting, a nice clutch pedal and really nice driving. But then only two days ago, the pedal went loose shifting was not smooth, and in fact when stopped, I could not engage first or any gear. I’ve been told this could be the clutch slave cylinder, now being the weakest link in the system, that needs replacing …?
Additionally, when I open the Reservoir of the clutch fluid, it was backing up, pushing up and out the top of the clutch master cylinder reservoir. That’s certainly not normal and I have no idea what it’s about.
I appreciate you reading my extremely long note and if you can offer any advice I would appreciate it. Again, thank you for the incredibly good videos superb presentation and your excellent knowledge of mechanical jobs on the MG!
Thanks for your message, to go through the questions in turn:
160psi sounds more than reasonable for a standard engine, the important thing is that all cylinders give a similar reading. Your average was 160psi, what was the difference between each cylinder?
I would check the level in the clutch master cylinder first, especially if the system has been worked on recently. A bad slave cylinder can often be diagnosed with a lot of hydraulic fluid in the outer cap, another issue can be the flexi hose too.
Hi David. Maybe I missed the video on how you cleaned the engine head and removed that carbon build up. Is there a video on this? I have a 1970 Midget and will plan to do this over thanksgiving week. I cannot stop praising you for the great work you do and the calmness you bring to every step in explaining every detail. It is refreshing.
Many thanks for your message Juan Pablo, I didn't refresh the cylinder head myself, it went back to my engine builder for a very light skim, had the valves reground and just an all over refresh.
Delighted to hear you are enjoying the videos
Absolutely brilliant 😊
I'll be following this to the letter today! Eek
Excellent, please let me know how it goes? With the tappets a clearance of around 0.013" (hot) or 0.015" (cold) should be ideal.
@@davidrussellwilks Hi David I will indeed! A few issues with the valve spring collars at the moment. I don't know whether they should have some metal in thew bottom or not. Some have and some haven't..
@@davidrussellwilks All done! A few things cropped up that you would never have covered, basically because of the age of the car and the stuff that the engine has been built with. A stripped tappet nut on the rocker was one. But your vids are amazing David Really really good!
Well done & clean job 🍺
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi David, I noticed you didn't install or mention the shims under the center two rocker shaft pedestals. Are they really necessary? Thank you for these wonderful videos.
If you car has the shims on it's worth keeping them, as I think they make the shaft more secure (but aren't necessary). I don't use them on my car but have elongated pedestals on the outer rockers to keep the shaft true.
You make it all look so easy chap! Aluminium anti-seize grease and Thread Sealant....what's the difference and is copper grease suitable, or not (I ask because I have that but not the other two you have used so I am guessing copper grease is not a good choice)
Hi Ted, there is little to choose between the aluminium and copper greases, the copper grease is more widely available. I do like the way the aluminium works when heated on parts like the backs of brake pads; it leaves a graphene like film, I think the copper acts in a similar way though. In my opinion the aluminium grease looks a bit better on exposed threads than the copper. The thread sealant is quite different this acts much more like a threadlock ideal for the thermostat studs that sit inside the water jacket of the head. I've had these weep fluid in the past.
Awesome videos David, thanks. When you removed the cylinder head in a previous video, the engine surface was dirty and the pistons were covered in deposits. This video shows them shiny clean, like new. Can you give us some tips on the best way to clean the engine mating surface and pistons, without worrying about getting deposits stuck between the piston and bore? Appreciate knowing how you did it. Cheers.
The engine went away for a complete rebuild Dan, the car has this every 2 seasons. It is hard to clean parts like this in situ you could try scraping the piston tops with a razor blade or similar and then vacuuming up the excess, but it might really be best left alone unless there is a severe build-up and then it's probably best to strip everything down anyway. You can still use the oil stone just to flat the top of the block though.
Nicely done! Lovely car, 2 of your exhaust valves looked like they were getting hotter than the rest? Sean
I would have done the oil stone treatment before any assembly begun. Washed the block out good afterward. Then started re-assembly.
Thanks for your message Anthony, unfortunately the engine was already in the car.
How can your workbench be so clean?
Thanks for your message, I do like to keep the workbench very clean when working on engine parts like the cylinder head etc.
Hi David,
Thank you for your excellent, clear and informative videos. I have a 74 MGB which is quite far away from track ready, though I’d be happy if mine even looked at good as yours.
To your point on valve clearance, 22 and 24 thou. You said they’re all like this, wondering if you could clarify. My Haynes, John Twist, and and my local spanner swear by 15 tho hot, also have 13thou cold, and I’ve even read 12thou. Mine are 15 and sound better recently I tightened them up, but still a bit “tappy” on the motorway. All set at the the same gap for both inlet and exhaust. Got me wondering whether your setting is the difference between race car vs stock road.
Many thanks for your message Rob, you are quite correct that I do run a larger valve clearance on my engine with a race camshaft. For a standard cam around 0.013" should be ideal.
Hi just wondering what company you used to build your race engine I’m thinking of getting one for my own vehicle and it be nice to know what you use
Many thanks for message Peter, I use Automotive Services in Northampton www.automotive-services.co.uk/ for all the engine work. Simon there is very knowledgeable and highly recommended. Peter Burgess www.peter-burgess.com/ is very well renowned for his knowledge of the B Series engines, also Doug Smith at MG Motorsport www.mgmotorsport.co.uk/ and Craig Taylor facebook.com/CraigTaylor48/
These videos have bee a huge help for me -- thanks for putting them together. Quick question on the valve clearances. It looks like most sources say that valve clearances should be 0.015" (cold; 0.013" hot), but it seems like you're setting them a bit wider here (something on the order of 0.022"). Curious as to what the rationale for that is
Many thanks Kevin, you are quite correct that 0.013" is ideal for a road car. In my car the gap were specified by the original engine builder; I think the idea is that if you get some valve bounce at high revs it stops the valve hitting the piston. Having a wider gap does mean the valve guides will wear a bit quicker though.
Brilliant video, thank you David. In the coming days, I will be refitting my head and your video has proven very useful. I do have one question though. Why is it such a bad thing if the stud turns when it comes time to retorque? Surely the same torque is applied either way, no?
I like to make sure the stud is tight in the block first, in theory it should make little difference, more just for my own satisfaction.
@@davidrussellwilks makes sense. The other reason I ask is cause a few of the studs came out with the nuts on, so I was contemplating just reinstalling them that way so I'd be torquing the stud down into the block on those ones.
Hello. Have you made any contingencies for the use of E10 fuel? Eg, pumps, lines, filters, gaskets, heat-shields Etc. Thanks
Thanks for your message Chris, the pumps are a pair of Walbro 5CA401 (both mounted in the tank with nylon filters attached) lines are PTFE inners with a fabric outer braid rather than steel and JIC fittings, the only gasket is a Viton one on top of the tank. As the fuel system is fairly modern it should be compatible with ethanol fuels and not degrade like the earlier paper filters and rubber hoses.
Last season (2019) I used Tesco Momentum fuel only; I think this is 5% (E5) ethanol or less. Previous to that I had always used Shell V-Power, but I found with the Shell I was getting accelerated wear to the cylinder head. I do use a lead additive (TetraBoost) in the fuel. I was unable to find an accurate figure for the ethanol content of the shell V-Power fuel
Excellent video David, as always. I did'nt see you lube the cam followers, push rods, rocker arms, or rocker shaft. Is'nt this critical for valvetrain life or did you just not show it?
Thanks for your message, the cam followers stayed in the engine, I don't lube the push rods before re-fitting. I didn't clean up the rocker assembly so there should still be a good film of oil on it. I think if you were building a fresh engine or you had de-greased them you'd want to make sure all these parts were lubed before fitting.
Before starting the engine I do always turn it over on the starter motor to make sure it has oil pressure.
just did a comp test on my 78B all front 3 were 100 back one was 150 am guess its time............
Yes, unfortunately 100psi does sound a bit low, probably time to look at refreshing the valves in the head and possibly the pistons too.
Excellent video, thanks. Will you please share what grit is the oil stone you use?
The one I use is made/supplied by Proops www.proopsbrothers.com/oilstone-and-box-coarse-one-side-and-fine-on-the-other-w3330-874-p.asp
Should be under £12 on Amazon or eBay.
I’ve heard the head gasket to use is a Payen gasket. Is this what you recommend? I can’t seem to find one anywhere. What brand do you recommend? 66 MGB
After tying a few different gaskets I find that the Payen works very well on these cars, it's cost effective yet durable and usually lasts a full season with no issues. Stock has been hard to find; Cambridge Motorsport in the UK do have them in stock I think.
@@davidrussellwilks unfortunately, having them shipped stateside can be costly. Any other recommendations? I love watching your videos, BTW. I dream of getting my MGB close to the level you have yours.
David, how did you get such a good finish on your alloy rocker cover? Could be a mini-tutorial subject?
Thanks for your message Peter, It's generally just a case of going through the different grades of sandpaper and then finishing with the polisher. There are some good videos on TH-cam that I followed. Once my rocker cover has started to dull I can make a new video then.
Noticed thermostat was left out??
Yes, I just use a blanking sleeve.
Hello, I saw others recommending 0.015 of clearance, is it good for a MGB GT 1974?
Thanks for your message, for a standard cam a clearance of around 0.013" should be ideal.
What type of Oils do you put in the gearbox, engine, diff and also what type of coolant?
Thanks for your message Michael;
Engine oil is Silkolene Comp 4 20w50 www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1123-silkolene-comp-4-20w-50-xp-ester-based-semi-synthetic-bike-engine-oil.aspx?VariantID=2386
Gearbox is Castrol classic 20w50 www.opieoils.co.uk/p-77263-castrol-classic-xl-20w-50-all-round-performance-multigrade-engine-oil.aspx?VariantID=111951
Diff is Castrol B373 www.opieoils.co.uk/p-712-castrol-b-373-racing-mineral-car-gearbox-oil.aspx?VariantID=931
Coolant is www.opieoils.co.uk/p-820-silkolene-pro-cool-antifreeze-coolant-ready-to-use.aspx?VariantID=1040 with a dash of CCA additive www.opieoils.co.uk/p-819-silkolene-pro-cca-ultra-motorbike-cooling-system-corrosion-inhibitor.aspx?VariantID=1039
My # 3 pushrod is a little higher that the rest and the rocker assembly won't drop down to the head. Will it be alright if I tighten it down using the bolt pattern.
If the push rod is raised slightly it might be that it's on the cam lobe so is at the highest point. This would only be a small amount though, it might be worth removing the side plates to see if anything is wrong, has the cam follower definitely located fully?
@@davidrussellwilks It is a small amount, maybe an 8th of an inch, looked about like yours before you snugged yours down. I doubt anything is wrong, it was fine when I took the rocker assembly off. I did bump the starter a few times when i was cleaning the pistons so they are not in the same position as when I took it off. Thank you for your help.
@@davidrussellwilks I got the head torqued down and all seems well. Is it common for the valves to be out of adjustment? They were all real loose.
Do you know what the clearances were like before you started? A new gasket will certainly change things, how far were they out?
@@davidrussellwilks They were .012 because I adjusted the valves right before I took it apart. They weren't out very much, just a little looser. Maybe a eighth or a tad more of a turn on the adjustment screw.
Which Weber carb do you use?
It's a Weber 48 DCOE
hi david i have developed a knock at the front when i apply the brakes any thoughts on what might be causing the knock many thanks richard
Thanks for your message Richard, do you have wire wheels fitted?
@@davidrussellwilks hi david no wire wheels so decided to change top bushes as they are shot not sure of the rear i think if front have gone so have the rear could be this is the problem many thanks richard great videos by the way
Hi Richard, if the front bushes have gone it would certainly be worth going over the whole car if you can. I do recommend the Super-Pro ones, they seem to hold up well and don't go soft like some of the Poly ones do.
@@davidrussellwilks thank you will change all bushes and hope it cures the problem all the best richard
Is that a TWR manifold? Sure looks like mine, but I run a Mikuni.
It's a TWM one, US made, but I don't know much about the company.
@@davidrussellwilks same as mine, don't know why I wrote twr? Not much info exists but I find it works better than a Cannon manifold I have.
I agree, they seem very nicely made, certainly look like a better moulding than the Cannon ones. I bought one years ago from Moss, the last one came from eBay. I don't know if the company is still going or not?
No thermostat?
No, I just run the engine with a blanking sleeve.
.22mm or .020 must be either very quiet or rather like an old sewing machine...:)
How did you run the 12v in an mg tank? For that walbro pump? It has got to be quieter than my current Edelbrock run in stock locatio
Thanks for your message, there is a swirl pot built into the custom fuel tank: www.nukeperformance.com/product.html/competition-fuel-cell-unit
I'd been having problems with fuel pick up but using this unit means I can get every last drop out of the tank.
The system can be used on carburetted cars using the lower power pumps like the Walbro, a fuel regulator is required to drop the PSI down to 2-3psi for the Weber carb. The pumps are fairly quiet, you hear them at start up only. I don't know how you'd get them into a standard MGB tank though, it would take some customisation.