No need to pull up with 3.3V pin and pulling down to Ground will disable the unit. Keep it away from metal objects such as breadboard as it has metal strips, 20cm (8in) distance will do.
I got the same sensor. I felt it was a piece of crap. The range was nowhere near what it is advertised. Mine only worked at around 2CM I replaced it with an HW-MS03 V.06. The HW sensor works flawlessly! Even motion through my plastic folding table.
I gota say im very disappointed.... ive been sat here for hours trying to figure out whats going on. At one point it was working when i went in next room but now its 1cm range. Im gona check out the one you mentioned
My two cents: although the VGS(th) is reached and the channel between drain and source is open, the MOSFET is not "totally" on in relationship to the VDS. If you look at the datasheet of the MOSFET you can see that under test conditions of VGS(th) it says "VDS = VGS, ID = 250 μA". VGS indicates the beginning of the turn-on proces. In between the microwave sensor and the MOSFET you could use a "Totem Pole Driver" to drive the MOSFET.
I used this as room occupancy but it seems to disrupt my 5ghz wifi it is fine when used in the next room far from router but when placed in the same room near router it had negative impact on 5ghz wifi.
Ahhhh, so nice to see someone using "Human Measurements" Well, THAT should trigger a few folk in the comments 👍🏻😂 Ps. Have one of these "radars" in my kitchen with 2 x PIR's, and it reduces the false triggers for both PIR's dramatically. Just code in the radar to both PIR's individually, and then either pir1 & radar, or pir2 & radar detects motion, trigger automation. The code is stolen from somebody else in the forums, but it's actually quite elegant, and can be modified for 1 or 2, or however many Sensors/PIR's you have (can supply code if you want it to mess about with it 😊) Ps. Ps. I just left the first wire floating, not pulled up at all, doesn't have any undesirable consequences 👍🏻
Why do people insist that it is the doubler effect? The oscillator is made to be very sensitive to the environment and output level will change with very small changes in the environment. This is then detected by the same IC as is used for ultrasound and PIR detectors. If you MOSFET is from EBay or Aliexpress it may be the reason, I have bought a lot of logic level mosfets that are not logic levels. There are MANY fake mosfets, they have the number of a good mosfet, but when you measure the specifications they are are very cheap mosfet that must be driver by more than 5V to turn fully on.
The purpose of my project; Preventing malicious people from approaching my boat, which I anchor in the sea, with sound and light warnings. In my project; I want to use Arduino uno r3, rcwl-0516 microwave radar sensor, XL4015 Adjustable DC / DC Voltage Reducer, 433MHz Universal Wireless Remote Control DC 12V 4CH Relay Receiver Module RF Switch Remote Control , lighting and a loud buzzer. My project will work with 12v dc current. I will supply the system with a 12v battery. What I want to do in my project; Position my boat rcwl-0516 in four directions. When any of the sensors detects motion, wait 10 seconds and turn on the boat LED lights in 11 seconds. In the 15th second, the buzzer is active. Keep the lights and buzzer active until the system is turned off with the remote control. When there is a safe environment, I will turn off the system with a remote control ... I would like your help for Arduino codes and circuit diagram ... Thank you so much...
Hey, thanks for the comment - your project seems like a quite intricate one and I wouldn't have the time to sit down and prototype it for you - I would recommend spending some time learning the individual parts of the project and assembling as you go! Good luck!
I understand, and I am flattered that you turn to me for help, but this is a complicated project with relatively difficult coding, I would recommend you post your code to the arduino forums for coding help, it would take me days of work to help you.
Data and schematics for the chip (RCWL-9196) and the board (RCWL-0156) can be found at: www.mpja.com/download/34685MPData.pdf www.mpja.com/download/34685MPSche.pdf www.snapeda.com/parts/rcwl-9196/RCWL/datasheet/ These documents also show some options that are available on the board for adjusting range, trigger cycle time and light sensitivity (if using with a photoresistor).
C-TM gets a .2mF = 50 sec, 1mF cap = 250 sec .. per specs: I haven't tested it, nor found any vids on it though. I have had zero luck just getting them to work consistently, so modding is a way off for me.
I've been through 10 of them, can't get any consistency. Batches must be bad lately.. it get triggers from the side sometimes, someone's the back, never repeatable events to trigger it. Tried more power, less power, different length wires, in a plastic casing, in the open air, morning (75°F), afternoon (90°F), in different humidy (65% - 90%), fast approach, slow approach... Nothing triggers it consistently... Very frustrating.
@@ahmetozdemir7173 This unit consists of an oscillator which radiates a microwave field. Microwave energy is reflected back by a moving body, and this affects the oscillator and is detected by the ic. There are no seperate transmit and recieve circuits.
Hey, a quick question: does the heat from the soldering iron damage the breadboard in any way? I thought of soldering the pins of this sensor(and other sensors) using the breadboard but I thought that the pins will be extremely hot and will melt the plastic and damage the breadboard, so did the breadboard suffer any damage?
Nice video, these are dirt cheap now, $7 for 6pcs on Amazon. Are you sure that was that a logic level mosfet? If it's not, that's why your 12V bulb was so dim and the mosfet got hot.
how to incorporate an piezo like buzzer so we have visual and audio alert when motion is detected. What voltage required for speaket? I use thercwl 0516 on it's own no arduino added.
@@billsquires79 probably could just wire it to a high level trigger relay but all my relays are low level I saw a video on how to convert a low level to a high level but I would like to see more on how to do this and specifically using this sensor with a low level opto isolated arduino relay board with no arduino
Well done with the video but this sensor is a total garbage. In my case it triggered from a distance of 2cm only. And the output is 3.7 v but I assume that the current is not high enough to energize a relay. Even a red LED can hardly be lit.
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No need to pull up with 3.3V pin and pulling down to Ground will disable the unit. Keep it away from metal objects such as breadboard as it has metal strips, 20cm (8in) distance will do.
You don't need to add a series resistor to the LED. There's a 100ohm series resistor on the output on board.
I got the same sensor. I felt it was a piece of crap. The range was nowhere near what it is advertised. Mine only worked at around 2CM I replaced it with an HW-MS03 V.06. The HW sensor works flawlessly! Even motion through my plastic folding table.
I gota say im very disappointed.... ive been sat here for hours trying to figure out whats going on. At one point it was working when i went in next room but now its 1cm range. Im gona check out the one you mentioned
Tungsten lamps are not inductive loads, generally.
to Anas Khedr - to avoid damaging bread board - use a IC holder - as unit on perf board
Go on. Take it further.
My two cents: although the VGS(th) is reached and the channel between drain and source is open, the MOSFET is not "totally" on in relationship to the VDS. If you look at the datasheet of the MOSFET you can see that under test conditions of VGS(th) it says "VDS = VGS, ID = 250 μA". VGS indicates the beginning of the turn-on proces.
In between the microwave sensor and the MOSFET you could use a "Totem Pole Driver" to drive the MOSFET.
Looking again at the data sheet, I can see that the RDS(on) figures show 5v and 10v so it may require nearly 5v to have a relatively low on resistance
I used this as room occupancy but it seems to disrupt my 5ghz wifi it is fine when used in the next room far from router but when placed in the same room near router it had negative impact on 5ghz wifi.
maybe it could be used to make a 5ghz wifi jammer
Ahhhh, so nice to see someone using "Human Measurements"
Well, THAT should trigger a few folk in the comments 👍🏻😂
Ps. Have one of these "radars" in my kitchen with 2 x PIR's, and it reduces the false triggers for both PIR's dramatically.
Just code in the radar to both PIR's individually, and then either pir1 & radar, or pir2 & radar detects motion, trigger automation.
The code is stolen from somebody else in the forums, but it's actually quite elegant, and can be modified for 1 or 2, or however many Sensors/PIR's you have (can supply code if you want it to mess about with it 😊)
Ps. Ps. I just left the first wire floating, not pulled up at all, doesn't have any undesirable consequences 👍🏻
Would you need to use some foil behind it to stop it being triggered by motion from the back? If you only wanted it triggered from in front.
You can try - at least it would attenuate it!
Why do people insist that it is the doubler effect? The oscillator is made to be very sensitive to the environment and output level will change with very small changes in the environment. This is then detected by the same IC as is used for ultrasound and PIR detectors.
If you MOSFET is from EBay or Aliexpress it may be the reason, I have bought a lot of logic level mosfets that are not logic levels. There are MANY fake mosfets, they have the number of a good mosfet, but when you measure the specifications they are are very cheap mosfet that must be driver by more than 5V to turn fully on.
"Doppler", not doubler.
The purpose of my project; Preventing malicious people from approaching my boat, which I anchor in the sea, with sound and light warnings.
In my project; I want to use Arduino uno r3, rcwl-0516 microwave radar sensor, XL4015 Adjustable DC / DC Voltage Reducer, 433MHz Universal Wireless Remote Control DC 12V 4CH Relay Receiver Module RF Switch Remote Control , lighting and a loud buzzer.
My project will work with 12v dc current. I will supply the system with a 12v battery.
What I want to do in my project; Position my boat rcwl-0516 in four directions. When any of the sensors detects motion, wait 10 seconds and turn on the boat LED lights in 11 seconds. In the 15th second, the buzzer is active.
Keep the lights and buzzer active until the system is turned off with the remote control. When there is a safe environment, I will turn off the system with a remote control ...
I would like your help for Arduino codes and circuit diagram ...
Thank you so much...
Hey, thanks for the comment - your project seems like a quite intricate one and I wouldn't have the time to sit down and prototype it for you - I would recommend spending some time learning the individual parts of the project and assembling as you go! Good luck!
@@SimpleElectronics hello, I'm asking you for help with coding ...
I understand, and I am flattered that you turn to me for help, but this is a complicated project with relatively difficult coding, I would recommend you post your code to the arduino forums for coding help, it would take me days of work to help you.
@@SimpleElectronics thank you so much
Data and schematics for the chip (RCWL-9196) and the board (RCWL-0156) can be found at:
www.mpja.com/download/34685MPData.pdf
www.mpja.com/download/34685MPSche.pdf
www.snapeda.com/parts/rcwl-9196/RCWL/datasheet/
These documents also show some options that are available on the board for adjusting range, trigger cycle time and light sensitivity (if using with a photoresistor).
So do you know what the exact SMD Capacitor is for the required sensor to extend the trigger time?
C-TM gets a .2mF = 50 sec, 1mF cap = 250 sec .. per specs: I haven't tested it, nor found any vids on it though. I have had zero luck just getting them to work consistently, so modding is a way off for me.
I've been through 10 of them, can't get any consistency. Batches must be bad lately.. it get triggers from the side sometimes, someone's the back, never repeatable events to trigger it. Tried more power, less power, different length wires, in a plastic casing, in the open air, morning (75°F), afternoon (90°F), in different humidy (65% - 90%), fast approach, slow approach... Nothing triggers it consistently... Very frustrating.
Hello, the transmitter will not work for me in this module. So how can I turn off the module's transmitter completely?
I'm not sure I understand your question?
@@SimpleElectronics ı mean, how can ı turn of the transmitter of the modüle?
@Jeffrey Wolsieffer İ want use this module only for microwave receiver. So, i need turn off transmitter part. How can ı made it?
@@ahmetozdemir7173 This unit consists of an oscillator which radiates a microwave field. Microwave energy is reflected back by a moving body, and this affects the oscillator and is detected by the ic. There are no seperate transmit and recieve circuits.
Hey, a quick question:
does the heat from the soldering iron damage the breadboard in any way?
I thought of soldering the pins of this sensor(and other sensors) using the breadboard but I thought that the pins will be extremely hot and will melt the plastic and damage the breadboard, so did the breadboard suffer any damage?
No sir, as long as you move relatively quickly, it's fine, I've been doing it for years and years and never damaged a breadboard
@@SimpleElectronics thanks alot, that is a very helpful hack (y)
Nice video, these are dirt cheap now, $7 for 6pcs on Amazon. Are you sure that was that a logic level mosfet? If it's not, that's why your 12V bulb was so dim and the mosfet got hot.
It is a logic level mosfet indeed
how to incorporate an piezo like buzzer so we have visual and audio alert when motion is detected. What voltage required for speaket? I use thercwl 0516 on it's own no arduino added.
Did you ever figure out how to do this?
@@billsquires79 probably could just wire it to a high level trigger relay
but all my relays are low level
I saw a video on how to convert a low level to a high level
but I would like to see more on how to do this and specifically using this sensor
with a low level opto isolated arduino relay board with no arduino
I bought some today. Any detection behind glass? I need this for automotive use.
Should work just fine!
What is the part number of your power supply ? It looks adjustable.
It is this one, D3806 ebay.us/NhCO5E
@@SimpleElectronics Thanks for this link! I wanted one as well.
Can this chip detect how far something is away from it? Not just motion?
It cannot
@@SimpleElectronics Oh ok, Do you know of any chip that can detect distance? For a radar of some sorts?
@@jackminng9272 LIDAR
😃😃😄😄😃😃, auch a simple circuit ,, you you made it so complex ,,
If it's complex you will make it impossible ,,!!! 😄😄😄😃😃😃😄😃😃😃😄😃😃😃😃😃
For outdoor operation PIR better than radar...
thank you for saying distance in feet.
Well done with the video but this sensor is a total garbage. In my case it triggered from a distance of 2cm only. And the output is 3.7 v but I assume that the current is not high enough to energize a relay. Even a red LED can hardly be lit.
Yup i just discovered this 😔 at one point it did work in the next room but ive tried 2 now and both just 1cm range