Nicely made David, a fine looking sharply detailed piece. Better than ply I expect but a little noisier tick. I've thought of doing this one in laser cut perspex or acrylic...
What size printer bed did you use? Any thoughts in regard to best filament for 3d printing clocks that gives a low coefficient of friction and resistance to moisture?
My printer has a 250x200mm bed. The very largest parts have to be split into pieces and then glued using steel pins to align the parts while the glue sets. See moosteria.blogspot.com/2022/04/printing-gears-in-parts.html. For filament, I use PLA as it is easy to print with and it works fine. Occasionally I print some of the non-mechanical parts (like frames) in PETG.
@@animoose Have you tried making gears with Delrin (POM) on a CNC? I'm on the fence if I should go with subtractive machining over 3D printing for clock building. CNC gives precision and a wide variety of materials including wood, arcylic, carbon fiber, non-ferrous metals (aluminum and brass).... The more 3D printing videos I watch the less I'm convinced, haha. I want to build actual-real-things with precision and quality rather than play with the machine/process in itself. This reminds me of the divide between Linux and Windows in a way.
@@MagnusNemo-xc5nx I don't have access to a CNC machine, so I've not tried this. A laser cutter is another option. You might need to make some of the parts in pieces and then glue them together. For example, wooden clocks often use plywood and then glue the parts together when you need something thicker or when you have a gear with an attached pinion.
A faulty tilt switch. I was using the kind that has two metal balls in it and I think it can get stuck on. Now I am using a mercury one and it seems better.
Amazing work!
Nicely made David, a fine looking sharply detailed piece. Better than ply I expect but a little noisier tick. I've thought of doing this one in laser cut perspex or acrylic...
Glad you like it!
Very nice
What size printer bed did you use? Any thoughts in regard to best filament for 3d printing clocks that gives a low coefficient of friction and resistance to moisture?
My printer has a 250x200mm bed. The very largest parts have to be split into pieces and then glued using steel pins to align the parts while the glue sets. See moosteria.blogspot.com/2022/04/printing-gears-in-parts.html. For filament, I use PLA as it is easy to print with and it works fine. Occasionally I print some of the non-mechanical parts (like frames) in PETG.
@@animoose Have you tried making gears with Delrin (POM) on a CNC? I'm on the fence if I should go with subtractive machining over 3D printing for clock building. CNC gives precision and a wide variety of materials including wood, arcylic, carbon fiber, non-ferrous metals (aluminum and brass).... The more 3D printing videos I watch the less I'm convinced, haha. I want to build actual-real-things with precision and quality rather than play with the machine/process in itself. This reminds me of the divide between Linux and Windows in a way.
@@MagnusNemo-xc5nx I don't have access to a CNC machine, so I've not tried this. A laser cutter is another option. You might need to make some of the parts in pieces and then glue them together. For example, wooden clocks often use plywood and then glue the parts together when you need something thicker or when you have a gear with an attached pinion.
What happened to make the remontoire "go mad"?
A faulty tilt switch. I was using the kind that has two metal balls in it and I think it can get stuck on. Now I am using a mercury one and it seems better.
@@animoose The ever reliable mercury switch is almost always the way to go. Great work! Thanks!
Muy buen trabajo lo felicito