One of the very best oil change I've seen for the CX-5. The slow drip drip was a little monotonous though but I get it. The only thing I would improve on would be to slightly prime the oil filter with some fresh oil before installing the filter. Thanks again for a great, (the best), video.
Great video and I think yours is the most comprehensive of all the 201X Mazda CX-5 videos I've seen on the subject. All in all, this is the best instructional video out there.
I just change oil my 2015 Mazda cx5, I'm 5'7", small frame and weighs about 155lbs and I didn't use any kind of jackstands. You can slide in, remove them plastic covering then the oil plug and oil filter. I mean it's not as easy as jeep liberty where clearance is better (no need for jackstands too it's very wide). But you can still slide in no problem with CX 5. Diy oil change easier without jacking it up and putting em jackstands which I use to do with my old Pontiac.
Excellent video. I have the exact same car and year so this is extremely useful. Can't wait to try this out for my first oil change and stop going to the shop.
Thanks Shaman. FYI about to do my 3rd change on this car. On the last one I used the Castrol Magnatec on Amazon Prime for $18 for the 5qt size. I will put a link in the description. Check it out!
what is the part number for those foolish pop rivets? I didnt realize the screw driver was under the lip and not the rivet and broke them -FYI make sure you can see what you are doing next time
I like the layed back relaxed presentation. (Although that extended drain tested my patience just a bit.) I don't get the part of filling it to less than full. The upper mark on the dip-stick is the full mark and the lower mark is the add oil mark. If you're filling it to capacity then it should be at the upper mark. ! No? Owner's manual says, "Pull it (the dipstick) out again and examine the level. The level is normal if it is between Low and Full. (Normal is okay...) If it is near or below Low, add enough oil to bring the level to Full." (So why not fill it to begin with?)
That's a great idea musa! Only thing there is you'd have to meter out the flush oil ahead of the fill, so you need to be sure you leave enough to complete the fill. Or you could keep the remaining oil from the previous fill and you that.
I feel like it makes more sense to remove plug first... I never got that much oil all over my hands when removing filter. Jus sayin. Also, ramps are easier, safer, and don't risk damage to anything. My two cents.
@@moileungyes and no. Different types of oil have different viscosities at certain temperatures. People in warmer areas need an oil with generally higher viscosity, and people in cold areas need the opposite. The manual gives you an oil that works fine in all temperatures but may or may not be optimal in the extremes. All that to say, 0w-20 is fine and good but it's not that big a deal to use a different oil as long as you have a reason to use it.
mine 2017 cx-5 ,I just got the car recently(2 months) and I check the oil stick last time, I got max when the engine is cool(actually it is a little over max) . is that ok ?
If it is just barely over, it will be fine. But anything more than 1/8 qt over the top dot, I would drain it off. You can check for a blue-tinged smoke out the tail pipe as one tell that oil is getting into the combustion chamber - which of course you don't want. A significant overfill could be dangerous , potentially increasing oil pressure to the point of busted seals. The length between the 2 dots represents roughly 1 qt, so you can use that as a guide to how much extra oil is in there.
@@grokshop Are you sure the difference between the marks on the dip-stick is about one quart? I read the owner's manual and I didn't see metion of that?
Thanks John. I used to use OEM filters, but eventually concluded the old cheap Frams really work as well or nearly as well. Not sure how you source them, but I had found a supplier online that would sell them in six-packs, which really helped keep the cost down plus its nice to have stock on hand. Those were for a Honda, but I am sure there are some for Mazda too.
"hand tight" for oil filter is not neccessarily good advice at all! People have remarkably variable levels of strength and/or grip....I learned LONG ago to go by the oil filter box instructions typically like 3/4 turn after making contact ... I mean it need not be exact exact but by picking a point on the oil filter's label aligned by eye to some point just crank it until it is 3/4 turn (or what the box SAYS) I actually have had vehicles I could not get at the filter with a strong enough grip to turn it tight enough and then I had use a filter wrench (specific socket type) ...I am 63 years old have done ALL my own oil changes so you KNOW I have a drawer FULL of oil filter wrenches ...I only use universals if I have to and then only to remove a filter not put a new one on ...for new ones I use the socket style made specifically FOR the filters I am installing ...tell you what , I am pretty strong and have trouble a LOT of times getting a filter a full 3/4 turn ...and I HAVE had them leak before when not tight enough I like the idea of installing a new crush washer but honestly I rarely have done that except on my racing motorcycles I DID....but no doubt it is good insurance
Thanks for the feedback Doug. Your comment about hand strength variation is valid & is one I can't argue. The 3/4 turn rule is a good general rule of thumb approach & I have used it also. For those who may not know, the idea is to turn the filter an additional 3/4 of a turn tighter AFTER the seal makes contact with the engine. My only problem with the 3/4 turn rule is that I often can't really tell when exactly the seal is making that initial contact. I think it's kind of like when I asked my plumber how tight I should make a certain plumbing connection - he couldn't really explain it very well. You just get a feel for it I suppose.
About three years ago I passed a Kidney stone that was the size of a Grapefruit. It was less painful than watching this 26.13 minute video which could have been done in 2.14 minutes. Really Dude! Half the video was on how to jack up the car. Really? I have to sign for now. I think I'll go and slit my wrist. Holy crap!
Sorry to hear about your ailment there Don. Any chance it affected your powers of observation? I mean, the description of this video clearly states this is a "VERY DETAILED" video. And if I were to trim it down, I'm not sure the most dangerous part of the job is where I would want to start. You might also want to consider using the slider controller to skip to areas that interest you. Good luck...
@Don Cook No one invited you and no one forced you to sit through the whole thing. You have nothing to complain about. Better to be thorough and detailed for the benefit of someone who has never done this before. You can see how long a video is before you start watching it.
One of the very best oil change I've seen for the CX-5. The slow drip drip was a little monotonous though but I get it. The only thing I would improve on would be to slightly prime the oil filter with some fresh oil before installing the filter. Thanks again for a great, (the best), video.
Great video and I think yours is the most comprehensive of all the 201X Mazda CX-5 videos I've seen on the subject. All in all, this is the best instructional video out there.
Thanks Malcolm!
I just change oil my 2015 Mazda cx5, I'm 5'7", small frame and weighs about 155lbs and I didn't use any kind of jackstands. You can slide in, remove them plastic covering then the oil plug and oil filter. I mean it's not as easy as jeep liberty where clearance is better (no need for jackstands too it's very wide). But you can still slide in no problem with CX 5. Diy oil change easier without jacking it up and putting em jackstands which I use to do with my old Pontiac.
i tried but im 6’5 /295lbs. i couldnt fit
Excellent video. I have the exact same car and year so this is extremely useful. Can't wait to try this out for my first oil change and stop going to the shop.
Thanks Shaman. FYI about to do my 3rd change on this car. On the last one I used the Castrol Magnatec on Amazon Prime for $18 for the 5qt size. I will put a link in the description. Check it out!
Very detailed demo! It was so easy to understand and follow! Thanks
Thank you very much Nena!
I liked the relaxing background music. So zen while changing oil.
love the music… very calming
Great video! Simple and to the point!
what is the part number for those foolish pop rivets? I didnt realize the screw driver was under the lip and not the rivet and broke them -FYI make sure you can see what you are doing next time
Very clear instructions and video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks Sam.
I like the layed back relaxed presentation. (Although that extended drain tested my patience just a bit.)
I don't get the part of filling it to less than full. The upper mark on the dip-stick is the full mark and the lower mark is the add oil mark. If you're filling it to capacity then it should be at the upper mark. ! No?
Owner's manual says, "Pull it (the dipstick) out again and examine the level.
The level is normal if it is between
Low and Full. (Normal is okay...)
If it is near or below Low, add enough
oil to bring the level to Full." (So why not fill it to begin with?)
I usually add a little clean oil to the fill port to flush out the drain pan to speed this up.
Good suggestion! Thanks Steve.
Since most of the oil comes with 5 quart is it wise to put little bit of the new oil when the old oil is draining to flush out the remaining old oil?
That's a great idea musa! Only thing there is you'd have to meter out the flush oil ahead of the fill, so you need to be sure you leave enough to complete the fill. Or you could keep the remaining oil from the previous fill and you that.
Thank you for posting!
clean instructions & video! kudos!
I feel like it makes more sense to remove plug first... I never got that much oil all over my hands when removing filter. Jus sayin. Also, ramps are easier, safer, and don't risk damage to anything. My two cents.
I don't even need jack or ramp in my oil change cx5 2015. I just slide under. Kinda tight but I fit.
Have you done valve cleaning work on your cx-5? Btw, I use 5w-20 in the summer; switch back to 0w-20 in the winter.
No I haven't had to mess with the valves at all. If your summer temps are relatively high, a step up in viscosity can help.
Is that because 5W-20 is less expensive?
But why? Manual says 0w-20? Shouldn't you use it all the time?
@@moileungyes and no. Different types of oil have different viscosities at certain temperatures. People in warmer areas need an oil with generally higher viscosity, and people in cold areas need the opposite. The manual gives you an oil that works fine in all temperatures but may or may not be optimal in the extremes. All that to say, 0w-20 is fine and good but it's not that big a deal to use a different oil as long as you have a reason to use it.
5/16th nutdriver works well removing and reinstalling the screws on the drain cover.
Good to know.... thanks JW!
mine 2017 cx-5 ,I just got the car recently(2 months) and I check the oil stick last time, I got max when the engine is cool(actually it is a little over max) . is that ok ?
If it is just barely over, it will be fine. But anything more than 1/8 qt over the top dot, I would drain it off. You can check for a blue-tinged smoke out the tail pipe as one tell that oil is getting into the combustion chamber - which of course you don't want. A significant overfill could be dangerous , potentially increasing oil pressure to the point of busted seals. The length between the 2 dots represents roughly 1 qt, so you can use that as a guide to how much extra oil is in there.
@@grokshop
Are you sure the difference between the marks on the dip-stick is about one quart? I read the owner's manual and I didn't see metion of that?
chuc chong chi thanh cong va co nhieu nguoi theo doi
Great video.... detailed and easy to follow. I use Zepro Eco Medalist Advanced Moly 0W-20 and OEM filters.
Thanks John. I used to use OEM filters, but eventually concluded the old cheap Frams really work as well or nearly as well. Not sure how you source them, but I had found a supplier online that would sell them in six-packs, which really helped keep the cost down plus its nice to have stock on hand. Those were for a Honda, but I am sure there are some for Mazda too.
đây là chồng chị đúng ko a
"hand tight" for oil filter is not neccessarily good advice at all! People have remarkably variable levels of strength and/or grip....I learned LONG ago to go by the oil filter box instructions typically like 3/4 turn after making contact ... I mean it need not be exact exact but by picking a point on the oil filter's label aligned by eye to some point just crank it until it is 3/4 turn (or what the box SAYS) I actually have had vehicles I could not get at the filter with a strong enough grip to turn it tight enough and then I had use a filter wrench (specific socket type) ...I am 63 years old have done ALL my own oil changes so you KNOW I have a drawer FULL of oil filter wrenches ...I only use universals if I have to and then only to remove a filter not put a new one on ...for new ones I use the socket style made specifically FOR the filters I am installing ...tell you what , I am pretty strong and have trouble a LOT of times getting a filter a full 3/4 turn ...and I HAVE had them leak before when not tight enough
I like the idea of installing a new crush washer but honestly I rarely have done that except on my racing motorcycles I DID....but no doubt it is good insurance
Thanks for the feedback Doug. Your comment about hand strength variation is valid & is one I can't argue. The 3/4 turn rule is a good general rule of thumb approach & I have used it also. For those who may not know, the idea is to turn the filter an additional 3/4 of a turn tighter AFTER the seal makes contact with the engine. My only problem with the 3/4 turn rule is that I often can't really tell when exactly the seal is making that initial contact. I think it's kind of like when I asked my plumber how tight I should make a certain plumbing connection - he couldn't really explain it very well. You just get a feel for it I suppose.
hello chồng chị bí đỏ
Chao em, cam on da xem ung ho nhe!
Hi Sona!
About three years ago I passed a Kidney stone that was the size of a Grapefruit. It was less painful than watching this 26.13 minute video which could have been done in 2.14 minutes. Really Dude! Half the video was on how to jack up the car. Really? I have to sign for now. I think I'll go and slit my wrist. Holy crap!
Sorry to hear about your ailment there Don. Any chance it affected your powers of observation? I mean, the description of this video clearly states this is a "VERY DETAILED" video. And if I were to trim it down, I'm not sure the most dangerous part of the job is where I would want to start. You might also want to consider using the slider controller to skip to areas that interest you. Good luck...
@Don Cook
No one invited you and no one forced you to sit through the whole thing. You have nothing to complain about. Better to be thorough and detailed for the benefit of someone who has never done this before. You can see how long a video is before you start watching it.
Nobody put a gun to your head to watch the video! Get a life!!
lol.