It’s 11:22am on October 26th 2023. I started this exact swap and I started at 830am this morning. It’s easier then any video I have ever watched, and I have seen them all. A stuby 3/8 drive ratchet with a 6mm ball Allen head socket and one small extension.
I made this upgrade on my Peugeot 308 THP and B200 by myself in my garage (lawyer here). Easy task. You just made me give up to do alone in my m135 like I did the others. Thanks for the honest and complete video about this upgrade!
I just got done with this on my N55 M2. I was upgrading my intercooler at the same time, so I had it out, and was able to disconnect the other end of the charge pipe from the turbo by reaching in from the top. It wasn't too bad. Once that charge pipe is out, you can access the three bolts on the water pump and move it into the space where the charge pipe used to be. I also removed the bracket that the water pump attached to. After this I had a direct line of sight to the diverter valve. That turbo oil supply line does still block the top bolt, but with a long ball end allen, you have just enough angle to get at it.
Hope you get this question// Do you recall the size of the Torx bit bolts on the water pump? Also not clear about removing the one piece OEM charge pipe. Did you pull it out from the top or bottom? Then finally removing the Diverter valve itself, apparently a ball end long allen wrench, 4.5 or 5mm?? Did you upgrade the valve or just go OEM ? Dreading this job but want to be prepared. Thanks!
Do you have a fluttering sound from the turbo? I have it and I am not sure if it's good for the Turbo. Even GFB says it should sound more like woosh when blipping the throttle. And I also have an fault code all the time. I think I have to change the spring to the stock one but it's a pain on the ass to get that thing out again.
I recently got mine installed and I’m not sure if the shop used the oem spring, the spring it came with, or no spring at all but at lower rpm’s when it’s building Boost and I let off throttle it makes the normal pshh sound but then it makes an owl like hoooh noise
lol I mention this in the videos but the stock one is rubber and it dries out and eventually cracks and starts to leak boost, and since this is a piston/cylinder, you get a faster response (but I'm sure it's negligible)
@@stillrecklessdriving "...eventually...starts to leak boost" ^ i did, oem eventually leaks boost, so you replace it to prevent one potential boost leak, how else can i answer his question more clearly?
code readers, both ISTA and BimmerLink said 120308 Boost pressure control pressure too low. That suggests the diverter valve, hence this TH-cam, a real pain to change. I planned to remove charge pipe to make access easier and bought a Go Fast diverter valve. Turns out it was the charge pipe that fractured and broke loose from MAS sensor, at only 25K miles! Not nearly as difficult a repair. Fritz Ramos has excellent You Tube showing replacement in detail for M325i. If the waterpump bolts are all accessible ONCE charge pipe removed may also change out diverter valve. These cars are needlessly complex and very difficult language with code readers including ISTA. How about a code for CHARGE PIPE FAILURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How about an aluminum charge pipe? Cheesy engineering for sure!!!
Metal pipes are not serviceable, plastic is. Service departments run the car industry. Take your time I did it in 3 hours with test time. It’s easier then people think. I’m sitting here in the pnw making 350 for every one I’ve installed.
It’s 11:22am on October 26th 2023. I started this exact swap and I started at 830am this morning. It’s easier then any video I have ever watched, and I have seen them all. A stuby 3/8 drive ratchet with a 6mm ball Allen head socket and one small extension.
I made this upgrade on my Peugeot 308 THP and B200 by myself in my garage (lawyer here). Easy task. You just made me give up to do alone in my m135 like I did the others. Thanks for the honest and complete video about this upgrade!
I just got done with this on my N55 M2. I was upgrading my intercooler at the same time, so I had it out, and was able to disconnect the other end of the charge pipe from the turbo by reaching in from the top. It wasn't too bad. Once that charge pipe is out, you can access the three bolts on the water pump and move it into the space where the charge pipe used to be. I also removed the bracket that the water pump attached to. After this I had a direct line of sight to the diverter valve. That turbo oil supply line does still block the top bolt, but with a long ball end allen, you have just enough angle to get at it.
Hope you get this question// Do you recall the size of the Torx bit bolts on the water pump? Also not clear about removing the one piece OEM charge pipe. Did you pull it out from the top or bottom? Then finally removing the Diverter valve itself, apparently a ball end long allen wrench, 4.5 or 5mm?? Did you upgrade the valve or just go OEM ? Dreading this job but want to be prepared. Thanks!
Doing it soon on my N20 and wrapping tape to hold the two pieces together is definitely smart. Thanks for showing us that.
Challenge accepted lol.. attempting on 235 this weekend. Sitting at 50K miles on aggressive full e85 tune so wish me luck .
Do you have a fluttering sound from the turbo?
I have it and I am not sure if it's good for the Turbo. Even GFB says it should sound more like woosh when blipping the throttle. And I also have an fault code all the time. I think I have to change the spring to the stock one but it's a pain on the ass to get that thing out again.
not that I've noticed
I recently got mine installed and I’m not sure if the shop used the oem spring, the spring it came with, or no spring at all but at lower rpm’s when it’s building Boost and I let off throttle it makes the normal pshh sound but then it makes an owl like hoooh noise
What lift is this that you’re using? Can you make a video about this? Price that all that it’s good looking
it's one of these: www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/
Do you have the link on where u got it from
Thanks for the info, definitely helpful!!!
That's why i love my N13 engine. Turbo is on top and it took only 15min to replace te diverter valve. Nothing extra needs to be removed
Hey brother are you still alive? Haven’t seen any videos from you for a while, hope you’re doing alright!
hey, thanks! i'm doing well! been busy with work and life changes, but otherwise i'm still around! happy holidays!
How is a Diverted valve beneficial. What do you get from it ?
lol I mention this in the videos
but the stock one is rubber and it dries out and eventually cracks and starts to leak boost, and since this is a piston/cylinder, you get a faster response (but I'm sure it's negligible)
@@ame7165 That doesn't answer his question whatsoever.
@@stillrecklessdriving "...eventually...starts to leak boost"
^ i did, oem eventually leaks boost, so you replace it to prevent one potential boost leak, how else can i answer his question more clearly?
@@ame7165 dont listen to these cornballs. let em figure it out
I am just starting this myself... I am DREADING this project!
Nice! You seem fairly mechanically inclined so you might have an easier time with it than I did! Good luck dude!
Any luck?
@@ame7165 Haven't even gotten to the DV yet. I am doing a few mods at the same time so it'll probably take me all week with filming and editing.
@@TheWrenchLab Yeah recording video/audio makes everything take 5x longer lol. Good luck. I hope you have a better time than I did
@@ame7165 Exactly! The time and effort to turn a mod into a video 🤪🤪🤪
How much do you think a shop would charge for this install lol
code readers, both ISTA and BimmerLink said 120308 Boost pressure control pressure too low. That suggests the diverter valve, hence this TH-cam, a real pain to change. I planned to remove charge pipe to make access easier and bought a Go Fast diverter valve. Turns out it was the charge pipe that fractured and broke loose from MAS sensor, at only 25K miles! Not nearly as difficult a repair. Fritz Ramos has excellent You Tube showing replacement in detail for M325i. If the waterpump bolts are all accessible ONCE charge pipe removed may also change out diverter valve. These cars are needlessly complex and very difficult language with code readers including ISTA. How about a code for CHARGE PIPE FAILURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How about an aluminum charge pipe? Cheesy engineering for sure!!!
Metal pipes are not serviceable, plastic is. Service departments run the car industry. Take your time I did it in 3 hours with test time. It’s easier then people think. I’m sitting here in the pnw making 350 for every one I’ve installed.
Attempting this now on my 2015 M235i . I have sacrificed an OFHG and a liter of oil to the Bavarian Gods.
good luck! i picked up an 18 m2 and haven’t done this as i’m just dreading it 😂