If I'm in the mood to try a repaint or re-decal, I'll go for it. It's a hobby for me. When I have done repairs for others, I always polish it up and make it look pretty.
My vintage machines are my main drivers for quilt making, bag making and general sewing. They were all purchased used. I don't need showcase finishes as I'm not a 'collector'. I keep them oiled and greased where appropriate and free of lint buildup. I've done bed feet replacement, changed to LED lights and cleaned the foot controllers. Nothing else has been needed for them to be functional. Love watching and learning from your videos.
I have many machines that, even in "as found" condition, are absolutely wonderful and "need" nothing more than appropriate lubrication and removal of lint. They are workhorses!
I get old sewing machines from pawn shops and such, clean them up replace worn or broken parts. I don't do any cosmetic work on them what so ever. Just clean them up, then I have people who know people that know people that just don't have the spare money of any kind to put towards a sewing machine. I just enjoy fixing them up and then give them away. I do one every three months. It's the beauty of the stitch that makes the machine looks good. You can have the most beautiful machine, but if it can hold its stitches, stitches are crooked then the beauty of the machine becomes unimportant. If you have a machine that looks used and old, but the stitches are perfect, nobody will notice the finish or lack of one.
Oh God no... I have enough skeletons in my past that I don't want to remember, and they would all come out and haunt me! Besides, if I were President, I'd spend most of my time sipping frozen margaritas under a palm tree on a warm beach somewhere...
Bob, the first 4 minutes are why I like you! Integrity! As to the re-paint question, I don't think there's a right or wrong answer. Some will value more the beautiful new clothes, some will value the battle scars. While I really enjoy seeing the well preserved machines and realizing how bright and colorful they would have originally been, My own preference is to use these old machines and enjoy the connection I feel with whoever used them for so long. Besides their durability and stitch quality I value highest that historical connection. But if someone wants to enjoy the "newly minted" beauty, that's where they get their sense of value for it. I just don't buy into either side saying that the other is sacrilegious in painting, or wrong to leave it scarred.
I was given a real ugly dog 66-1 Red Eye with a broken vertical rock shaft. I wanted to make her a “user” not a “looker or show piece”. My intent was to donate her to a refugee family who would give her a new useful life. My labor was donated and there was no need to make this machine like new. As it was, I give it a light sanding so as to not remove the existing decals and gave it a nice clear coat to make her look presentable. The refugee mom was very appreciative to receive a working machine. I could have repainted and added new decals to the machine but it was not really necessary.
Bob...this was so good, I had to take notes while I was watching. First, I pressed the screaming goat for you when you showed us your broken part. Next...economics of painting a machine. Sentimental value...for some you can't put a price on that and it doesn't matter what it cost to bring the machine back to its original condition. The same would be true if it were a very rare machine. In all other cases...if it doesn't sew, who cares what it looks like! Stop any rust or other issues that will get worse. The end. Protect it so that it can still be used and love it for its character. That's my opinion on that. GLAD THE CAT CAME HOME. If only she could talk and share her adventure with you. Also, Megan...great job on the machine and I hope you can figure out a solution for your broken screw. I don't have suggestions but thanks for making me laugh when Bob read your email to us. Finally... "Advanced stage of schmoo" Bob, I can always count on you to give us the proper technical terms for everything. Okay, now I am sad I didn't save this video for tomorrow morning with my coffee.
Thank you Jen! It's an adventure I'm on that's for sure - and very keen to hear any ideas anyone has as this is now the only thing stopping this machine from working in very respect. I even discovered an interesting shuttle lift on this one that I got to work it didn't budge to start with and so wondered what on Earth it even was. When you pull the left slide plate even more to the left a little after it seems to stop (you go from sliding to needing to pull against the tension of a spring) it triggers the lift mechanism and the back end of the shuttle is pushed right above the bed of the machine. I was so excited when I got it working I was like a kid on Easter morning finding a Really Big Easter Egg. :-)
I didn't need the screaming goat when it hit the concrete floor, I did enough screaming when I saw the ear fly off. For those who don't know, you should ALL have a screaming goat available, just in case: www.amazon.com/The-Screaming-Goat-Book-Figure/dp/0762459816/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GNJ6E34JMAHZ&keywords=screaming+goat+desk+toy&qid=1695514862&sprefix=screaming+goat%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-3
Oh yeah, also for those who don't know Jen, check out her channel "Sewing Machine Rehab" - Jen is awesome! th-cam.com/channels/_ydj77gdsdEfKdDzFC8zEA.html
Performance over appearance on my machines. That being said, I've touched up some pretty bad nicks, scratches, and engravings (social security numbers on featherweight) for others that have turned out really well. I enjoy French polishing and touching up the shellac on machines. I do have a rusted disassembled 27 that needs a repaint, but it will be a few years before I get to it.
I think you hit the nail on the head - performance first, appearance second. I don't have the patience for French Polishing myself, but I admire those who do!
Hi Bob! As always great video :) So, you probably have a good idea of my sometimes-unpopular opinion. But I think that the deciding factor for a machine that DOES NOT have any sentimental value to the owner, being a family heirloom, etc, for me is, if it is extremely rare (which I don't work on in general) and should be a museum piece, leave it as is. After that, it is up to the owner. Like a classic car. Old cars with shiny new paint can be really pretty. Or if you want a basic black model T, there you go. But whatever you choose, be happy about it in your gut and know that there will always be someone to criticize your decision no matter what it is, so you might as well do what makes you happy. Love to all your kitties!
Ah, but you , Marie, seem to take a lot of machines that are unwanted by many of the "snobs" of the world and turn them into incredible, functional, and very usable art. That's a whole different thing in my book. You do amazing things with what many would consider doorstops.
For those who haven't yet done so, go check out Marie's remarkable transformations on her TH-cam channel: th-cam.com/channels/B5zRPiVHTuqS7Qdmz9AUKw.html
Hi Bob. For loosening spool pins I find that wrapping several layers of fine grit sandpaper around the pin allows a much tighter grip without damaging the pin.
Guru Bob. Thanks for responding to my question, bypassing the bounced email. I'm trying your advice tomorrow. As for repainting, yes to all the previous comments. I just repainted a machine. It was a heap of junk. But being the forever curious person, I wanted to try out options for removing or covering over old shellac finishes and taking apart mechanicals before pouncing in on my awesome old Singers. Whew! Learning a LOT. So, if it gives you joy, repaint. Or not. Thanks, Bob. You rock😊😊
@@BobFowlerWorkshop heart wrenching to have a furry loved one out missing. So glad your curious one is back. Hope she didn't have a smile on her face! Sneaky little stinker. No wonder Wilson was asking for treats. Hey you two! I'm not the one who ran off!
@@robinr6399 Oh... Wilson is ALWAYS asking for treats! We adopted Wilson and his litter mate Forrest about 5 years ago. Forrest has cerebellar hypoplasia (CH), also known as "wobbly kitten" as his cerebellum, the part of the brain that coordinates movement, was not completely developed at birth. He's considered a "mild" case, but he still has his moments. It's especially noticeable when he first wakes up and starts moving around. They are our orange boys, and we love them!
Glad she’s home. Regarding my opinion on decals, if you plan to sew often with it and it’s been in your family for eons, then keep the original decals. If you plan to have it as a “museum piece” and the decals are in bad shape, then put new decals, etc.
This sewing machine restoring is a hobby for many of us not a way to make a living. If you are an expert then you probably want to do more because your confident in your ability. I’m just grateful to be able to watch you work. If your looking at economics , this fix-er-upper of old sewing doesn’t seem to be a way to make a living unless you can turn out restored machines fast. I’m not sure people would want to restore a machine if they had to pay a mechanic an hourly wage that their skill deserves.
That's just it... Unless you live in an area where your customer base is willing to pay the price, doing these cosmetic restorations is, for me, more of a labor of love than a way to put food on the table. If you're working mostly on "collectable" machines such as the 221, 222, and 301 where there is a sizable number of people who love the machine for whatever reason and are willing to pay stupid money for them, it's entirely possible to make a nice living. I tend to work on workhorses and "beaters", keeping them alive for people to enjoy more than to collect. Every cosmetic restoration I do would be a money loser if it weren't for the fact that the money isn't that important to me as much as putting a good, solid working machine into the hands of someone who will use it for many years.
I guess MY question... speaking here an engineer... I understand sewing machines, although I don't use or fix them (we had to sew our aprons on a Singer back in 6th grade in home ec class, then we cooked the second half of the term. I don't think they teach home ec anymore, but I digress). Anyway, so you ask, at what point is it no longer worth it? Well, as this machine has no sentimental value to the customer, I guess I would ask how much the repair costs on this machine are? I remember back in the day a Singer that dropped down into the cabinet (many of the women in my family had them) were incredibly expensive appliances, were used often, and lasted a lifetime (some of them are still around as heirlooms in my family now, although I'm probably the only living one who could even use one if I had tol. LOL) When you can buy a machine at Wal-Mart for less than $100 (I've seen some made by Brother, and here I thought they only made typewriters)... Those things do all kinds of fancy stitching and stuff, so how does one justify the cost of repairing a machine like the one you have there if it's value to them is only functional (e.g. not sentimental)? Don't read me wrong here-- I see what you do as valuable and an as an engineer, I find these machines fascinating and find it personally a travesty that everything today is made to throw away. So many things could be made repairable but the cheap availability of complex technology has made it more economically viable to throw things in the trash than it is to fix them. Don't even get me started on the $4,000 freezer I bought that died a year later and was told it would be better to just curb it than to repair it. So there's my two cents... so how much is the invoice to restore this? I'm guessing in the ballpark of $500, considering the effort you're having to put into it, and the value of a man's labor these days... perhaps more.
Well James, we're on the same wavelength, kind of, anyway. The machine I have on the bench is 103 years old. It's far from being rare (I have a bunch of them, and can get one just about any day of the week in the neighborhood of $20 to $50). What they are is bulletproof, and when properly set up, make a beautiful straight stitch. That's all this model does, a straight stitch, at least not without an attachment. I don't post my prices on line, and every machine is different, but suffice it to say I am considered VERY reasonable. Yes, she could easily go to Wally World and get a brand new machine for less than the cost of this overhaul, but that machine will not stand up to decades of use, much less a century, as this one has. The value added of these old Singers is that they were made to simple yet robust design using superior materials. The parts are made to exacting tolerances, that combined with excellent materials choices, rarely result in the need to replace parts. The fact that I broke a part by dropping it should not cast a bad light on the machine in any way, that was negligence and abuse on my part. The simple fact that within a few days I was able to source a replacement should also speak volumes, as repair parts for "modern" machines are very difficult to source, new or used. Most of the current production "basic" machines were designed to be used until they no longer function, then discarded. Not so with these old gals, they were meant to last - which is a big part of why Singer today is no longer the Singer of old.
Hi Bob, IMHO, Cosmetic restorations are pretty much a sentimental value decision. I've already broken my own unwritten rules of: No rust & No nylon gears. I restored a Singer 638 just for practice & it's still running like a champ. Likewise, I restored a Singer 99 that I thought was only covered in varnished oil & nicotine. Sadly, the cigarette smell was covering up the mildew smell. Turns out, nicotine, varnish & schmoo look a lot like surface rust. As for Megan's dilemma, I've had my hubby either drill out or score a line - just deep enough to get a screwdriver blade into to remove a busted screw. Presently, I'm dealing with a 221 hook assembly with _frozen_ screws. I've gone so far as to put the entire assembly into a babyfood jar with Kroil & let it soak in the ultrasonic, numerous times. Those tiny screws aren't budging!
The list of unwritten rules that I have broken is also very, very long. Since I quit smoking nearly 3 years ago (2 years, 11 months, and 1 day to be precise) I have been able to smell certain things - such as mildew - that had escaped me most of my life, so yeah, I completely get it! My rule of "no nylon gears" died a horrible death a long time ago, and now I find myself doing a lot of gear replacements for others.
Really appreciate your sharing of knowledge! I'm new to the vintage sewing machine obsession. I am a "sewing machine technician" at dealership and lifetime seamstress, and art restorer, so geeking out on your videos.....PS, rat fink lives!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop and Van Dutch and Barris cars....and Sunday drag strips....and riding a motorcycle with a kidney belt and having a face covered with bugs after a long ride....🤣have the back surgery to show for it....but I digress.... loving the vintage sewing machines....the best sewing experience for sure...God bless your work, cats and family
Bob, in my opinion, she has earned the wear look, as long as she is mechanically sound, I would leave her appearance alone. It's like taking a 100 year old person and trying to make them look 19. There's my opinion!
I hadn't even thought of that. I have an ultrasonic cleaner so it would be an easy, pretty much risk-free option that won't hurt to try. And would likely do it good to help really clean it anyway. Thank you for the idea!
Well, I may need to take some responsibility for damaging a few screws. The stop motion screw holding that bottom on my Veritas doesn't want to come off. The shaft still doesn't move. Somehow I put in my head that I may need to remove that in order to get it moving. Was able to loosen the bobbin shuttle and others parts are free for now. Regarding painting I have learned is a costly lengthy process that I don't care to repeat unless the machine is in total disaster. I have also learned to walk away from trouble machines.
I had to learn the hard way that certain machines just weren't worth the time nor the effort, especially when there are thousands of other of the same make and model in much better condition. I've since taken to parting out more and more backet cases so that others may live on.
Hi Bob. To answer your question, here are my thoughts on repainting a machine or allow her to stay in her aged glory. Who is the prospective user? Fore me, as someone who uses the machines I restore, I care how it looks when I sit and sew. I am okay with her showing some wear and tear, but I love when I get one looking beautifully so I can admire it while I sew. I do prefer leaving the decals and not painting it. But if the 'client/sewist' using it is known, iI'd ask their preference. As much as possible, I like leaving them cleaned up but in their original state. BTW, I am going to try to rebuild that 201 I emailed you about. Going to use it as a lesson for myself. I'll keep you posted.
There's something to be said about enjoying the look of your tools while you work. BTW - I might be able to help you with parts for that 201. Put together a list of what you need and we'll talk...
Are you sure you're talking about a Featherweight and not a 99? Featherweights are either gear driven to the hook shaft (the black ones) or belt driven (the white ones). The Featherweight (221) has a typical forked arm for the feed drive subsystem and a connecting rod for the feed lift subsystem, no vertical rockshaft. Feel free to email me pix of the machine and parts you need at argosybob@gmail.com
Hi Bob, Another great video. Sorry you guys are having such horrible weather. Kentuckys weather is good for the time being. Anyway, don't know if this will help any with parts that are hard to get but I had watched this persons videos and thought you might know of it ," Fred Sanford's Vintage Sewing Machine Parts & Attachments", Munith, Michigan. He has a MEGATON of machines and parts. Don't know anything about him but thought you might.
Is it a Bellleville spring washer? I had this problem on a Singer 15. Someone had installed the Belleville washer upside down. I reversed it and was able to adjust the tension on the stitch length lever very easily.
It's technically not a Belleville, but it is similar. If even one of the three prongs is damaged, it's usually game over for that washer. I ordered a bunch of different washers from McMaster to test the viability of replacement. The source of the originals is long gone, so we need a new option. I'll be reporting back what I find.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I'm looking forward to hearing what you find out. In my case the washer was still usable so I happy didn't have to go down the road of looking for a replacement.
Hey Bob got any use for a 15-91 silver badge& nickel scrolled stitch length indicator. Was going to put them on 1200, but just didn’t look right. All my parts are chrome. Let’s barter
In my opinion, I would start with a really sharp, OR fully operational machine, then do either the body work, or the mechanical work to complete the restoration. Also, if one is going to spend time and money, pick a machine that is sentimental, rare, or unique, I see no sense in spending time and money on something that is readily available for an affordable price. Many thanks for this, and all of your videos
HEAT; I'm really big on heat for frozen bolts and screws, LOTS of heat. also, if possible, hammer, ( multiple lighter blows as apposed to driving a nail ) The end of the screwdriver while simultaneously loosening the problem screw. This of course will not work on a needle shaft/clamp assembly.
I think all solid vintage machines need to be cleaned and put in working order. They don’t make them anymore. The question is do they do good job! Singer vintage machines are awesome. Then the repainting is the questionable aspect. What makes you happy?
Dear Bob, I have watched tubes on loosening the hand wheel to wind the bobbin so the needle stops. I have placed the washer so the tabs are pointing out and tightening the set screw. Either the wheel loosed all the way or won’t back off at all. Any help from you on this would help. Thanks. Alfa
Did you try the old "turn the washer 180 degrees" trick and testing it again? Many of the machines have two positions the washer can go on (imagine a clockface with two possible times 12 hours apart). Only one of them is the right way and I find it's a 50/50 chance that I get on the right way the first time. Most youtube vids cover that so you probably have tried it, but it's worth mention just in case. I also had the same trouble as you once when I was swapping one handwheel out with another - the other handwheel looked the same, but was in nicer condition. It was not quite the same size though, by the teensiest smidge. It took me a while to figure out that a slightly different amount of the horizontal shaft was exposed compared to the original handwheel and swapping it back solved the problem. I think a similar problem could happen if the original handwheel were not seated on the horizontal shaft properly.
@@meganmills6545 thanks Megan , yes I have tried that 180 degree trick. When I tighten the wheel down on the washer my fingers get in the way of holding the washer in a certain place. I did take the wheel off and I’ll look to see if it seated but I’m think it is seated .
@@alfa5243 Yes, I thought it highly likely you'd already tried that. I'm not quite sure what you mean about tightening the wheel down on the washer. Do you mean the stop motion "thingy" that the set screw goes into, the one you turn clockwise until it "stops" while holding the handwheel still? Or something else? Regardless, I'm sure Bob will have some more suggestions, I'm just curious. Let me know how it goes and what worked when you've got it licked. Best of luck! :-)
The threading on the balance wheel end of the machine is on the bushing, not on the main shaft, and from what I can see, with few exceptions, the threading is the same across the board. My suggestion... Try a stop motion knob from another machine. I've seen it before where the relationship between the start of the threads and the hole for the stop screw is slightly off, which gives the kind of result you're seeing. It's worth a try...
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
If I'm in the mood to try a repaint or re-decal, I'll go for it. It's a hobby for me. When I have done repairs for others, I always polish it up and make it look pretty.
I tend to do that, as long as it won't compromise the decals.
My vintage machines are my main drivers for quilt making, bag making and general sewing. They were all purchased used. I don't need showcase finishes as I'm not a 'collector'. I keep them oiled and greased where appropriate and free of lint buildup.
I've done bed feet replacement, changed to LED lights and cleaned the foot controllers. Nothing else has been needed for them to be functional.
Love watching and learning from your videos.
I have many machines that, even in "as found" condition, are absolutely wonderful and "need" nothing more than appropriate lubrication and removal of lint. They are workhorses!
I get old sewing machines from pawn shops and such, clean them up replace worn or broken parts. I don't do any cosmetic work on them what so ever. Just clean them up, then I have people who know people that know people that just don't have the spare money of any kind to put towards a sewing machine. I just enjoy fixing them up and then give them away. I do one every three months. It's the beauty of the stitch that makes the machine looks good. You can have the most beautiful machine, but if it can hold its stitches, stitches are crooked then the beauty of the machine becomes unimportant. If you have a machine that looks used and old, but the stitches are perfect, nobody will notice the finish or lack of one.
That's an awesome story! Keep up the good works!
You rock! Bob Fowler for president!
Oh God no... I have enough skeletons in my past that I don't want to remember, and they would all come out and haunt me! Besides, if I were President, I'd spend most of my time sipping frozen margaritas under a palm tree on a warm beach somewhere...
Bob, the first 4 minutes are why I like you! Integrity! As to the re-paint question, I don't think there's a right or wrong answer. Some will value more the beautiful new clothes, some will value the battle scars. While I really enjoy seeing the well preserved machines and realizing how bright and colorful they would have originally been, My own preference is to use these old machines and enjoy the connection I feel with whoever used them for so long. Besides their durability and stitch quality I value highest that historical connection. But if someone wants to enjoy the "newly minted" beauty, that's where they get their sense of value for it. I just don't buy into either side saying that the other is sacrilegious in painting, or wrong to leave it scarred.
... thus proving that beauty is in the eye of thew beholder.
I was given a real ugly dog 66-1 Red Eye with a broken vertical rock shaft. I wanted to make her a “user” not a “looker or show piece”. My intent was to donate her to a refugee family who would give her a new useful life. My labor was donated and there was no need to make this machine like new. As it was, I give it a light sanding so as to not remove the existing decals and gave it a nice clear coat to make her look presentable. The refugee mom was very appreciative to receive a working machine. I could have repainted and added new decals to the machine but it was not really necessary.
That's an awesome story! Thanks!
Bob...this was so good, I had to take notes while I was watching. First, I pressed the screaming goat for you when you showed us your broken part. Next...economics of painting a machine. Sentimental value...for some you can't put a price on that and it doesn't matter what it cost to bring the machine back to its original condition. The same would be true if it were a very rare machine. In all other cases...if it doesn't sew, who cares what it looks like! Stop any rust or other issues that will get worse. The end. Protect it so that it can still be used and love it for its character. That's my opinion on that. GLAD THE CAT CAME HOME. If only she could talk and share her adventure with you. Also, Megan...great job on the machine and I hope you can figure out a solution for your broken screw. I don't have suggestions but thanks for making me laugh when Bob read your email to us. Finally... "Advanced stage of schmoo" Bob, I can always count on you to give us the proper technical terms for everything. Okay, now I am sad I didn't save this video for tomorrow morning with my coffee.
Thank you Jen! It's an adventure I'm on that's for sure - and very keen to hear any ideas anyone has as this is now the only thing stopping this machine from working in very respect. I even discovered an interesting shuttle lift on this one that I got to work it didn't budge to start with and so wondered what on Earth it even was. When you pull the left slide plate even more to the left a little after it seems to stop (you go from sliding to needing to pull against the tension of a spring) it triggers the lift mechanism and the back end of the shuttle is pushed right above the bed of the machine. I was so excited when I got it working I was like a kid on Easter morning finding a Really Big Easter Egg. :-)
I didn't need the screaming goat when it hit the concrete floor, I did enough screaming when I saw the ear fly off. For those who don't know, you should ALL have a screaming goat available, just in case:
www.amazon.com/The-Screaming-Goat-Book-Figure/dp/0762459816/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GNJ6E34JMAHZ&keywords=screaming+goat+desk+toy&qid=1695514862&sprefix=screaming+goat%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-3
Oh yeah, also for those who don't know Jen, check out her channel "Sewing Machine Rehab" - Jen is awesome!
th-cam.com/channels/_ydj77gdsdEfKdDzFC8zEA.html
Performance over appearance on my machines. That being said, I've touched up some pretty bad nicks, scratches, and engravings (social security numbers on featherweight) for others that have turned out really well. I enjoy French polishing and touching up the shellac on machines. I do have a rusted disassembled 27 that needs a repaint, but it will be a few years before I get to it.
I think you hit the nail on the head - performance first, appearance second. I don't have the patience for French Polishing myself, but I admire those who do!
Hi Bob! As always great video :) So, you probably have a good idea of my sometimes-unpopular opinion. But I think that the deciding factor for a machine that DOES NOT have any sentimental value to the owner, being a family heirloom, etc, for me is, if it is extremely rare (which I don't work on in general) and should be a museum piece, leave it as is.
After that, it is up to the owner. Like a classic car. Old cars with shiny new paint can be really pretty. Or if you want a basic black model T, there you go. But whatever you choose, be happy about it in your gut and know that there will always be someone to criticize your decision no matter what it is, so you might as well do what makes you happy. Love to all your kitties!
Ah, but you , Marie, seem to take a lot of machines that are unwanted by many of the "snobs" of the world and turn them into incredible, functional, and very usable art. That's a whole different thing in my book. You do amazing things with what many would consider doorstops.
For those who haven't yet done so, go check out Marie's remarkable transformations on her TH-cam channel:
th-cam.com/channels/B5zRPiVHTuqS7Qdmz9AUKw.html
Hi Bob. For loosening spool pins I find that wrapping several layers of fine grit sandpaper around the pin allows a much tighter grip without damaging the pin.
Yes, that too will work. Like I said, I personally don't reuse them, but that would make them salvageable.
I like the wear. As long as it's functioning and not rusty, it's fine.
You should see my 95-10... talk about wear...
Guru Bob. Thanks for responding to my question, bypassing the bounced email. I'm trying your advice tomorrow.
As for repainting, yes to all the previous comments. I just repainted a machine. It was a heap of junk. But being the forever curious person, I wanted to try out options for removing or covering over old shellac finishes and taking apart mechanicals before pouncing in on my awesome old Singers. Whew! Learning a LOT. So, if it gives you joy, repaint. Or not. Thanks, Bob. You rock😊😊
Curiosity is an excellent reason too... Just don't be like my cat Ava Gardner and accidentally go out the window and be missing for 36 hours...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop heart wrenching to have a furry loved one out missing. So glad your curious one is back. Hope she didn't have a smile on her face! Sneaky little stinker. No wonder Wilson was asking for treats. Hey you two! I'm not the one who ran off!
@@robinr6399 Oh... Wilson is ALWAYS asking for treats! We adopted Wilson and his litter mate Forrest about 5 years ago. Forrest has cerebellar hypoplasia (CH), also known as "wobbly kitten" as his cerebellum, the part of the brain that coordinates movement, was not completely developed at birth. He's considered a "mild" case, but he still has his moments. It's especially noticeable when he first wakes up and starts moving around. They are our orange boys, and we love them!
Glad she’s home. Regarding my opinion on decals, if you plan to sew often with it and it’s been in your family for eons, then keep the original decals. If you plan to have it as a “museum piece” and the decals are in bad shape, then put new decals, etc.
Ava Gardner gave us one heck of a scare... I tend to agree about the decals.
This sewing machine restoring is a hobby for many of us not a way to make a living. If you are an expert then you probably want to do more because your confident in your ability. I’m just grateful to be able to watch you work. If your looking at economics , this fix-er-upper of old sewing doesn’t seem to be a way to make a living unless you can turn out restored machines fast. I’m not sure people would want to restore a machine if they had to pay a mechanic an hourly wage that their skill deserves.
That's just it... Unless you live in an area where your customer base is willing to pay the price, doing these cosmetic restorations is, for me, more of a labor of love than a way to put food on the table. If you're working mostly on "collectable" machines such as the 221, 222, and 301 where there is a sizable number of people who love the machine for whatever reason and are willing to pay stupid money for them, it's entirely possible to make a nice living. I tend to work on workhorses and "beaters", keeping them alive for people to enjoy more than to collect. Every cosmetic restoration I do would be a money loser if it weren't for the fact that the money isn't that important to me as much as putting a good, solid working machine into the hands of someone who will use it for many years.
Thank you for putting the call out for extra tips on that Hengstenberg Bob!
Any time Megan!
I guess MY question... speaking here an engineer... I understand sewing machines, although I don't use or fix them (we had to sew our aprons on a Singer back in 6th grade in home ec class, then we cooked the second half of the term. I don't think they teach home ec anymore, but I digress). Anyway, so you ask, at what point is it no longer worth it? Well, as this machine has no sentimental value to the customer, I guess I would ask how much the repair costs on this machine are? I remember back in the day a Singer that dropped down into the cabinet (many of the women in my family had them) were incredibly expensive appliances, were used often, and lasted a lifetime (some of them are still around as heirlooms in my family now, although I'm probably the only living one who could even use one if I had tol. LOL) When you can buy a machine at Wal-Mart for less than $100 (I've seen some made by Brother, and here I thought they only made typewriters)... Those things do all kinds of fancy stitching and stuff, so how does one justify the cost of repairing a machine like the one you have there if it's value to them is only functional (e.g. not sentimental)?
Don't read me wrong here-- I see what you do as valuable and an as an engineer, I find these machines fascinating and find it personally a travesty that everything today is made to throw away. So many things could be made repairable but the cheap availability of complex technology has made it more economically viable to throw things in the trash than it is to fix them. Don't even get me started on the $4,000 freezer I bought that died a year later and was told it would be better to just curb it than to repair it.
So there's my two cents... so how much is the invoice to restore this? I'm guessing in the ballpark of $500, considering the effort you're having to put into it, and the value of a man's labor these days... perhaps more.
Well James, we're on the same wavelength, kind of, anyway. The machine I have on the bench is 103 years old. It's far from being rare (I have a bunch of them, and can get one just about any day of the week in the neighborhood of $20 to $50). What they are is bulletproof, and when properly set up, make a beautiful straight stitch. That's all this model does, a straight stitch, at least not without an attachment.
I don't post my prices on line, and every machine is different, but suffice it to say I am considered VERY reasonable. Yes, she could easily go to Wally World and get a brand new machine for less than the cost of this overhaul, but that machine will not stand up to decades of use, much less a century, as this one has. The value added of these old Singers is that they were made to simple yet robust design using superior materials. The parts are made to exacting tolerances, that combined with excellent materials choices, rarely result in the need to replace parts. The fact that I broke a part by dropping it should not cast a bad light on the machine in any way, that was negligence and abuse on my part. The simple fact that within a few days I was able to source a replacement should also speak volumes, as repair parts for "modern" machines are very difficult to source, new or used. Most of the current production "basic" machines were designed to be used until they no longer function, then discarded. Not so with these old gals, they were meant to last - which is a big part of why Singer today is no longer the Singer of old.
Hi Bob, IMHO, Cosmetic restorations are pretty much a sentimental value decision. I've already broken my own unwritten rules of: No rust & No nylon gears. I restored a Singer 638 just for practice & it's still running like a champ. Likewise, I restored a Singer 99 that I thought was only covered in varnished oil & nicotine. Sadly, the cigarette smell was covering up the mildew smell. Turns out, nicotine, varnish & schmoo look a lot like surface rust. As for Megan's dilemma, I've had my hubby either drill out or score a line - just deep enough to get a screwdriver blade into to remove a busted screw. Presently, I'm dealing with a 221 hook assembly with _frozen_ screws. I've gone so far as to put the entire assembly into a babyfood jar with Kroil & let it soak in the ultrasonic, numerous times. Those tiny screws aren't budging!
The list of unwritten rules that I have broken is also very, very long. Since I quit smoking nearly 3 years ago (2 years, 11 months, and 1 day to be precise) I have been able to smell certain things - such as mildew - that had escaped me most of my life, so yeah, I completely get it! My rule of "no nylon gears" died a horrible death a long time ago, and now I find myself doing a lot of gear replacements for others.
Personally I wouldn't bother repainting unless a good bit of the japanning was missing, or otherwise messing up the fabric when sewing.
True, even then, ultra fine sandpaper can be used to feather rough edges...
Really appreciate your sharing of knowledge! I'm new to the vintage sewing machine obsession. I am a "sewing machine technician" at dealership and lifetime seamstress, and art restorer, so geeking out on your videos.....PS, rat fink lives!
Not many people these days know Rat Fink! I grew up completely enchanted by anything from the warped mind of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop and Van Dutch and Barris cars....and Sunday drag strips....and riding a motorcycle with a kidney belt and having a face covered with bugs after a long ride....🤣have the back surgery to show for it....but I digress.... loving the vintage sewing machines....the best sewing experience for sure...God bless your work, cats and family
Bob, in my opinion, she has earned the wear look, as long as she is mechanically sound, I would leave her appearance alone. It's like taking a 100 year old person and trying to make them look 19. There's my opinion!
Excellent point!
What about a ultra sonic cleaning for that stuck screw in the needle bar. Then soak in kroil. Time is your friend.
If Megan can get the needle bar out, that may help...
I hadn't even thought of that. I have an ultrasonic cleaner so it would be an easy, pretty much risk-free option that won't hurt to try. And would likely do it good to help really clean it anyway. Thank you for the idea!
Well, I may need to take some responsibility for damaging a few screws. The stop motion screw holding that bottom on my Veritas doesn't want to come off. The shaft still doesn't move. Somehow I put in my head that I may need to remove that in order to get it moving. Was able to loosen the bobbin shuttle and others parts are free for now. Regarding painting I have learned is a costly lengthy process that I don't care to repeat unless the machine is in total disaster. I have also learned to walk away from trouble machines.
I had to learn the hard way that certain machines just weren't worth the time nor the effort, especially when there are thousands of other of the same make and model in much better condition. I've since taken to parting out more and more backet cases so that others may live on.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Painfully learning here 😅$$$$$.
Hi Bob. To answer your question, here are my thoughts on repainting a machine or allow her to stay in her aged glory. Who is the prospective user? Fore me, as someone who uses the machines I restore, I care how it looks when I sit and sew. I am okay with her showing some wear and tear, but I love when I get one looking beautifully so I can admire it while I sew. I do prefer leaving the decals and not painting it. But if the 'client/sewist' using it is known, iI'd ask their preference. As much as possible, I like leaving them cleaned up but in their original state. BTW, I am going to try to rebuild that 201 I emailed you about. Going to use it as a lesson for myself. I'll keep you posted.
There's something to be said about enjoying the look of your tools while you work. BTW - I might be able to help you with parts for that 201. Put together a list of what you need and we'll talk...
I'm looking for a vertical rockshaft for a Featherweight - because I broke it! Machine was in a flood, so, seized. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
Are you sure you're talking about a Featherweight and not a 99? Featherweights are either gear driven to the hook shaft (the black ones) or belt driven (the white ones). The Featherweight (221) has a typical forked arm for the feed drive subsystem and a connecting rod for the feed lift subsystem, no vertical rockshaft. Feel free to email me pix of the machine and parts you need at argosybob@gmail.com
Hi Bob, Another great video. Sorry you guys are having such horrible weather. Kentuckys weather is good for the time being. Anyway, don't know if this will help any with parts that are hard to get but I had watched this persons videos and thought you might know of it ," Fred Sanford's Vintage Sewing Machine Parts & Attachments", Munith, Michigan. He has a MEGATON of machines and parts. Don't know anything about him but thought you might.
Oh yes... Very familiar!
Is it a Bellleville spring washer? I had this problem on a Singer 15. Someone had installed the Belleville washer upside down. I reversed it and was able to adjust the tension on the stitch length lever very easily.
It's technically not a Belleville, but it is similar. If even one of the three prongs is damaged, it's usually game over for that washer. I ordered a bunch of different washers from McMaster to test the viability of replacement. The source of the originals is long gone, so we need a new option. I'll be reporting back what I find.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I'm looking forward to hearing what you find out. In my case the washer was still usable so I happy didn't have to go down the road of looking for a replacement.
Hey Bob got any use for a 15-91 silver badge& nickel scrolled stitch length indicator. Was going to put them on 1200, but just didn’t look right. All my parts are chrome. Let’s barter
Hi Mike! I don't but I'm sure someone else here probably does! What do you need???
I got 40 dollars in it. Plus postage. Badge and small pins are mint. Stitch length indicator needs your touch, kind of dull.
In my opinion, I would start with a really sharp, OR fully operational machine, then do either the body work, or the mechanical work to complete the restoration. Also, if one is going to spend time and money, pick a machine that is sentimental, rare, or unique, I see no sense in spending time and money on something that is readily available for an affordable price. Many thanks for this, and all of your videos
HEAT; I'm really big on heat for frozen bolts and screws, LOTS of heat. also, if possible, hammer, ( multiple lighter blows as apposed to driving a nail ) The end of the screwdriver while simultaneously loosening the problem screw. This of course will not work on a needle shaft/clamp assembly.
I think all solid vintage machines need to be cleaned and put in working order. They don’t make them anymore. The question is do they do good job!
Singer vintage machines are awesome. Then the repainting is the questionable aspect. What makes you happy?
Very valid points, and what makes each of us happy is part of what makes us all unique.
It depends on what is occurring in life, sentimental value, and does it work well the way it is.
Again, a very valid point. Good cosmetics doesn't necessarily equate to good performance.
Aw Snap! i hate it when I break parts!
Yeah, it sucks... LOL
Dear Bob, I have watched tubes on loosening the hand wheel to wind the bobbin so the needle stops. I have placed the washer so the tabs are pointing out and tightening the set screw. Either the wheel loosed all the way or won’t back off at all. Any help from you on this would help. Thanks. Alfa
Did you try the old "turn the washer 180 degrees" trick and testing it again? Many of the machines have two positions the washer can go on (imagine a clockface with two possible times 12 hours apart). Only one of them is the right way and I find it's a 50/50 chance that I get on the right way the first time. Most youtube vids cover that so you probably have tried it, but it's worth mention just in case.
I also had the same trouble as you once when I was swapping one handwheel out with another - the other handwheel looked the same, but was in nicer condition. It was not quite the same size though, by the teensiest smidge. It took me a while to figure out that a slightly different amount of the horizontal shaft was exposed compared to the original handwheel and swapping it back solved the problem. I think a similar problem could happen if the original handwheel were not seated on the horizontal shaft properly.
@@meganmills6545 thanks Megan , yes I have tried that 180 degree trick. When I tighten the wheel down on the washer my fingers get in the way of holding the washer in a certain place. I did take the wheel off and I’ll look to see if it seated but I’m think it is seated .
@@alfa5243 Yes, I thought it highly likely you'd already tried that. I'm not quite sure what you mean about tightening the wheel down on the washer. Do you mean the stop motion "thingy" that the set screw goes into, the one you turn clockwise until it "stops" while holding the handwheel still? Or something else? Regardless, I'm sure Bob will have some more suggestions, I'm just curious. Let me know how it goes and what worked when you've got it licked. Best of luck! :-)
@@alfa5243 Make sure the inner tabs on the stop motion washer are facing outward. I'm sure you checked it, but that sometimes slips by us all...
The threading on the balance wheel end of the machine is on the bushing, not on the main shaft, and from what I can see, with few exceptions, the threading is the same across the board. My suggestion... Try a stop motion knob from another machine. I've seen it before where the relationship between the start of the threads and the hole for the stop screw is slightly off, which gives the kind of result you're seeing. It's worth a try...