step 1) pull up half an hour late just as everyone else is leaving to go out to the race because you had to stop off at Mc Donald's step 2) rig boat only to find that the main sheet is missing. step 3) steel someone else's main sheet. step 4) arrive at the race right when the air horn blows for the last time and win the race.
Basically, though I'd imagine it'd be hard to steel a mainsheet, I guess you'd gather a bunch of sand from the beach in order to create a cast and then pour the molten steel to form a new sheet, the heat from the foundry could certainly be a plus on those extra cold days. LOL
@@XDlasersailing ive had that happen many times, the sailing club is getting quite mad at the buildup of molds and casts that i've made, as well as the iron mine under the boat launch. I've also been making ropes out of various tree fibers, leading to mass deforestation (3 trees)
Hmm. Let's see. Arrive at the dinghy park, uncover the boat, get all the bits-n-pieces out of the board bag, separate/untangle lines, tie on various blocks, then do what was shown in the video (less the parts edited out). Rigged in 5 mins sounds about right. LoL.
The metal piece can pop off with alot of sailing, so that ensures it stays on. If you lose the metal piece the traveler line will saw through the tiller.
I have tape on mine because the metal part was popping off the tiller, but the traveller should still contact the metal, not the tape, or else the tape gets worn out (the metal doesn't get worn out, it's tough enough)
I step the mast by having it flat and grabbing not far above the tack of the sail and pretty close to wear the mast is flush with the hull, and then leveraging it up and balancing it straight up, it's all about technique. I'm 145 pounds and 15 and can step a full rig mast easily.
At 3min 40sec the video seems to recommend a figure-of-eight as a stopper knot on the mainsheet at the boom end. Figure-of-eight knots can become undone if subjected to constant flailing so the mainsheet could become completely free which would not be a good experience! Much safer would be to use a bowline or a double or triple overhand stopper knot.
the reason you dont use a bowline, is because it gives you a few cm less of pulling in the main sheet (about 5-10 cm). its always a 8-knot behind the block, the chance of it opening is so unlikable nobody really cares about it.
A bowline even if tied small prevents full block to block trim, the reason not to use a double or triple overhand knot is because it creates a larger knot which may cause more friction, since the pulley wheel is up against the knot. A double overhand is fine for the other end of the mainsheet and don't worry, the eight knot at the block end won't come undone while sailing. You're correct that eight knots can come undone for example at the loose end of the sheet from flailing around. The double or triple overhand can be a better option at the loose end in the cockpit also because here you want a bigger knot to prevent the tail from running out of the mainsheet block.
This rigging is over complicated beyond reason. Like many things in life..........someone has intentionally overcomplicated a simple task. But that's not your fault, great job with the instruction. Thanks.
Just one thing, when you putted the battens in you have to be careful in which side you are putting them. Well, there is in the an elastic, which is pushed by the battens. Therefore, you have to put the battens by the side where you have the two types of "peak".
Why dont they use a quickpin (in german: Kugelsperrbolzen) to fasten the vang-steel-part at the mast - I did so, but ok, maybe it is not conforming with the rules. But I hat this little rings, which disappear in the "koker" at the wrong time (Koker, the hole the mast is standing in.) I had a little stick with a strong magneto, to pull the rings out again. I hated ir.
Ja, das ist einfacher :) The only reason I didn't is the Kugelsperrbolzen I got here didn't seem to fit properly, it left a good bit of play so I opted for the snug fit pin with ring dings. Your way is better, anytime you can avoid ring dings it's a win!
You can go pretty thin, 7/64th dyneema is the smallest that will work when you crank it on, you can go with a similar sized covered dyneema and it will hold easier, I also came up with a new design with an added block for the mkII sail
laserxd.com/how-to-rig-a-laser-sailboat-in-less-than-5-minutes/ I'll do an updated improved version soon, I've changed the specs slightly on my rigging.
That's a good point, I never put my sail on wet pavement or if you're sailing in a hot climate it might be too hot for the sail, I usually roll the sail over my boat if you can't lay it on the ground. Some regattas you don't have much choice.
It depends on where in the world you are, these are the names that are used here though if you use kicker and downhaul everyone will know what you mean. You can check the class rules which use vang and Cunningham to define those parts: www.laserinternational.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ILCA-Class-Rules-2018.pdf
step 1) pull up half an hour late just as everyone else is leaving to go out to the race because you had to stop off at Mc Donald's
step 2) rig boat only to find that the main sheet is missing.
step 3) steel someone else's main sheet.
step 4) arrive at the race right when the air horn blows for the last time and win the race.
Basically, though I'd imagine it'd be hard to steel a mainsheet, I guess you'd gather a bunch of sand from the beach in order to create a cast and then pour the molten steel to form a new sheet, the heat from the foundry could certainly be a plus on those extra cold days. LOL
up
j
@@XDlasersailing ive had that happen many times, the sailing club is getting quite mad at the buildup of molds and casts that i've made, as well as the iron mine under the boat launch. I've also been making ropes out of various tree fibers, leading to mass deforestation (3 trees)
Thanks! Looking at lasers and is helping me get a sense of the boat.
bought one yet?
Hmm. Let's see. Arrive at the dinghy park, uncover the boat, get all the bits-n-pieces out of the board bag, separate/untangle lines, tie on various blocks, then do what was shown in the video (less the parts edited out). Rigged in 5 mins sounds about right. LoL.
What is that tape over the tiller at 4:35 ???? Is it metal tape? Good idea, I want to do this to avoid the metal getting worn from the traveller.
The metal piece can pop off with alot of sailing, so that ensures it stays on. If you lose the metal piece the traveler line will saw through the tiller.
I have tape on mine because the metal part was popping off the tiller, but the traveller should still contact the metal, not the tape, or else the tape gets worn out (the metal doesn't get worn out, it's tough enough)
very good !!! Brazil
Thank you!
damn I thought this was how to rig a laser in five minutes as opposed to *learning* to rig the laser
I step the mast by having it flat and grabbing not far above the tack of the sail and pretty close to wear the mast is flush with the hull, and then leveraging it up and balancing it straight up, it's all about technique. I'm 145 pounds and 15 and can step a full rig mast easily.
Good video, thanks!
Thank you!
At 3min 40sec the video seems to recommend a figure-of-eight as a stopper knot on the mainsheet at the boom end. Figure-of-eight knots can become undone if subjected to constant flailing so the mainsheet could become completely free which would not be a good experience! Much safer would be to use a bowline or a double or triple overhand stopper knot.
the reason you dont use a bowline, is because it gives you a few cm less of pulling in the main sheet (about 5-10 cm). its always a 8-knot behind the block, the chance of it opening is so unlikable nobody really cares about it.
You can’t trim in all the way with a bowline
I like to use a double overhand stopper for the mainsheet at both ends
A bowline even if tied small prevents full block to block trim, the reason not to use a double or triple overhand knot is because it creates a larger knot which may cause more friction, since the pulley wheel is up against the knot. A double overhand is fine for the other end of the mainsheet and don't worry, the eight knot at the block end won't come undone while sailing. You're correct that eight knots can come undone for example at the loose end of the sheet from flailing around. The double or triple overhand can be a better option at the loose end in the cockpit also because here you want a bigger knot to prevent the tail from running out of the mainsheet block.
Loved my Laser" But now I'm 78. But great memories.
Just got my 3rd Laser at 78
This rigging is over complicated beyond reason. Like many things in life..........someone has intentionally overcomplicated a simple task. But that's not your fault, great job with the instruction. Thanks.
The main parts of the rig I had questions about you do without talking leaving it still a mystery
feel free to ask and maybe I can help you solve that mystery..
Just one thing, when you putted the battens in you have to be careful in which side you are putting them. Well, there is in the an elastic, which is pushed by the battens. Therefore, you have to put the battens by the side where you have the two types of "peak".
Laser43009 great tip, I've destroyed my old sail because I've done it wrong way
Why dont they use a quickpin (in german: Kugelsperrbolzen) to fasten the vang-steel-part at the mast - I did so, but ok, maybe it is not conforming with the rules. But I hat this little rings, which disappear in the "koker" at the wrong time (Koker, the hole the mast is standing in.) I had a little stick with a strong magneto, to pull the rings out again. I hated ir.
Ja, das ist einfacher :) The only reason I didn't is the Kugelsperrbolzen I got here didn't seem to fit properly, it left a good bit of play so I opted for the snug fit pin with ring dings. Your way is better, anytime you can avoid ring dings it's a win!
A lot missing here. You have a store?
I do, it's https;//sailing-store.com
+XDlaser how long and thick must be the dynemma for the cunningham be?
You can go pretty thin, 7/64th dyneema is the smallest that will work when you crank it on, you can go with a similar sized covered dyneema and it will hold easier, I also came up with a new design with an added block for the mkII sail
laserxd.com/how-to-rig-a-laser-sailboat-in-less-than-5-minutes/
I'll do an updated improved version soon, I've changed the specs slightly on my rigging.
I never liked putting my sail onto pavement. The sail gets dirty and is heated up a ton when touching the hot asphalt.
That's a good point, I never put my sail on wet pavement or if you're sailing in a hot climate it might be too hot for the sail, I usually roll the sail over my boat if you can't lay it on the ground. Some regattas you don't have much choice.
There are no halyards in this mast? How can this be?
it has a sleeve, but may have a halyard in the future
Seems like a lot of detail is left out here.
The mast can't rotate, can it?
On lasers the boom doesn't move separately, it moves with the mast.
YaZzY _
Why is that so?
The mast can and does rotate in the step.
Toby Que Simplicity and reduction of weight I believe.
Ehum 5:41
T
Don't forget the " mast keeper " line...............................or risk it falling out of the mast pocket. @!#$%&
It I not a vang it's a kicker
Plus it is adownhall not cuningham
It depends on where in the world you are, these are the names that are used here though if you use kicker and downhaul everyone will know what you mean. You can check the class rules which use vang and Cunningham to define those parts: www.laserinternational.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ILCA-Class-Rules-2018.pdf
use your camera meter my guy
that cuningham is awful
N