I was wondering what would have happened if when you found the hole in the cannon. and dropped some flux into the hole, then re-pored the hole to fill it. might that have done the trick or would they not combine to weld the hole?
We tried it. The brass solidifies too quickly to flow properly and then contracts as it cools so it doesn't really adhere. Thanks for the suggestion though!
Stand the casting on end. So the muzzles up straight up. That way if u run out or material or u get shrinkage wen it cools, it can get cut off wen u clean it up
My suggestion for fixing it: 1: thread the steel liner at the muzzle counter clock wise and use a lathe to make a steel rod that's just big enough to bottom out all the way down to the breech end when counter clockwise threads on the rod two thirds up are fully engaged with the muzzle threads of the liner. 2) Drill a hole perpendicularily through the rod extension and push a steel cross bar through. The cross bar will hold the liner and in position when the brass is re-melted and the rod will prevent the steel liner from deforming under heat and preassure from the molten brass. 3) make a flared foam extension of the barrel around the steel liner extension, adding about 3" to the gun length. 4) Make a reinforced vertical crucible mould around the cannon and extensions as it is with a flat bottom and walls thick enough to support it's weight even when full of liquid metal and mount it all muzzle up in a one-use gas-heated furnace. Make the furnace out of an insulator lined barrel or something. 5) Remove the foam to get a funnel, heat it all up until all of the old brass has melted and then add more ingots outside the barrel extension until all the melted slag overflows into the single use furnace. 6) Keep the heat on for another minute or so to ensure a homogenous melt. 7) turn off the heat and let it all sit and air cool naturally until you can touch the metal, protect it from rain. 8) Break the mould and cut the muzzle back to shape, drill a hole into the steel rod extension and thread it clock wise, use a high torque hex bolt and mount the barrel in a vice to unscrew the rod out of the barrel by screwing the bolt into the rod. (That's the reason for ccw threads on rod and muzzle) 9)Fill in the threads with brass solder and finish up with polish etc. 10) test firing time!
vent holes are totally a thing. Also, you need a riser of metal to be a "reservoir" of brass (and heat) so that takes the contraction and provides molten metal to the actual workpiece as the metal cools. One other thing- you stopped in the middle of the pour. Don't do that.
Hey guys, you gave it a good shot and learned some stuff too. Sure the cannon didn’t hold up but I’d still call it a win just for the experience. I’d proudly display it if I were you. You could use some auto body filler and some paint on the hole but to be honest I think it’s cool just how it is because it proves it was fired.
Watch some TH-cam videos, what you need is a vent at the muzzle end to allow the gas to escape. A tower for excess metal to rise into to allow for contraction of the metal as it cools too.
You know how to fix it? Put the entire barrel in a crucible. Melt the thing back down. And cast it properly this time. You don't need a premade box, just stack some boxes on top of each other. You need 4 bits of wood 8 nails x 2-3 depending on the size. It's not a big job.
I got an Armsport stainless steal barrel and gun carriage. but I got a Brocken wheel due to an earthquake. long boring story. would be good if we could make a complete working cannon.
I got recommended part 1 yesterday and noticed it was done 11 months ago so I assumed it was never going to be finished. Then you release part 2 the next day. Weird
Dang, looks like a cursed project. But I guess you learned a lot! Not gonna lie, when I saw this in my Subscribed feed I was like "WTF is 'Masters of Ineptitude'?"
They made a holo cylinder 100mm x 1m then turned it down. From that piece they made a cast iron mold that was heated and poured brass into it when it cooled the iron would shrink and so would the brass releasing the cannon. Then they would hand drill the hole and polish the brass, then they would coat it in paper and wax for transport the wax was very hard when set. Research it better.
Wow...looks like you are using smokeless powder. That's not clever. You don't see many modern guns using brass...I wonder why? Maybe the chamber pressure is too high for brass and it could kill you.
You didn't make it right you're supposed to make it out of a solid block of material and drill it and shape it to size. Not cast around a thin little tube that's why this happen it wasn't strong at all as you can see..
How to Repair the Voids in your Cast Brass Cannon Barrel, for the Best Possible Cosmetic and Structural Results, USING A TIG WELDER - But First: I have not Proof Read this. Please interpret as Best as possible, any Areas that sound incorrect. I’ve got to go! If WARNING!!!!!!!!! I STRONGLY WARN AGAINST EMPLOYING ANY TYPE OF MAJOR REPAIRS OF SIGNIFICANT VOIDS, ANYWHERE IN THE BREACH AREA, SAY.... ANYWHERE BELOW 3” ABOVE THE TRUNNIONS. (Muzzle Up) TO AVOID CAUSING EXTREME STRESS WITHIN THE BARREL AT THE BRAZED AREA IN THE BARREL, LIKELY WEAKENING THE BARREL TO THE POINT OF MAKING IT EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS TO FIRE, BEYOND JUST PACKING IN DAMP NEWSPAPER, TO ACHIEVE ENOUGH RESISTANCE TO GUARANTEE A LARGE REPORT UPON FIRING. OF COURSE IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT ALL RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ANY OUTCOME, DUE TO EMPLOYING THESE REPAIRS, ARE SOLELY YOUR RESPONSIBILITY. THESE METHODS OF REPAIR, WILL GIVE YOU THE BEST POSSIBLE “COSMETIC REPAIRS”, BUT ANY BRAZING UPON A CANNON, WILL DEFINITELY CAUSE CHANGES OF GRAIN STRUCTURE AND STRENGTH OF THE BARREL, AND I CANNOT REPEAT TOO MUCH, THAT ANY ATTEMPTS TO DO SO, ARE TAKEN AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!! First of all, Create Brazing Rod from the Exact Same Material that the Barrel is Cast from. If you are able to even Cast some ~ 1” x 1” x 8” (Minimum - Can Be Much Larger) Pieces (for Example), letting them Cool on their own, you will have a Great Start. Remove any significant amounts of Sand from the Outside of the Casing, so as to not Destroy the Bandsaw Blade you are about to use. (If you make your Molds out of Carbon, you won’t have the Sand Problem) Using a Good Bandsaw with a Skip Tooth Blade, Cut Up the Brass Bar, into No Larger than 1/4” x 1/4” x the Longest Lengths that you have been able to Cast. Make sure that you have Cut all 4 Sides of the Brass, so you have Extremely Clean Brazing Rod without Coolant. I suggest 1/4” x 1/4” Rod, because I am seeing that you have a Large area to Fill in. 1/8” x 1/8” Rod would be Great to have, along with the 1/4” x 1/4” Rod! Prepare the void in the Cannon Barrel, Down to absolutely Bright, Bare Metal, and for at least 3/8” of the Good, Surface of the Barrel, surrounding the Void. You will want to Clean both the Barrel’s Critical Void Surface, and the Adjoining Good Barrel Surface, as well as the Brazing Rod, Extremely Clean, of any Oils or other Surface Contaminants, with Acetone, just prior to Brazing. * I suggest you Research what is the Best Temperature that a Cast Brass Cannon should be Heated to, in Order to attain the most Stress Free, as well as the Strongest Grain Structure. That shouldn’t be too difficult to find out, However, you probably have no Idea what the Closest Type of Brass your Cast Brass Barrel is to. At any rate, I suggest you (Preheat) the Barrel, just Prior to Brazing on it. This will reduce the Stresses you are about to induce in your Barrel. You see, you May as well see what the Best Temperature you should use to Stress Relieve the Barrel, and if you can attain that Temperature with a Household Oven (I don’t think so), the you should Preheat the Barrel, to that Temperature, or to what you can, and having Setup your Welding Table Ahead of Time, for you to be able to lay the Barrel, onto for Example, two Wooden Vee Blocks, with Probably at least 1/2” Thick of Woven Fiberglass, to take the Heat, Insulating the Hot Barrel from the Wooden Vee Blocks. It should be High enough to allow you to turn the Barrel to the Best Possible Position, by the Person doing the Brazing. If just Laying it down on the Table, happens to allow you to be in the proper Position to Braze, make sure to set it on Wooden Blocks, and ~ 1/2” of the Woven Fiberglass. Quickly Braze in the Voids on the Barrel. If for any reason you had to stop Brazing before you we’re Finished.... so Long, that the Barrel Cooled Significantly, put it back into the Oven, and Bring it back up to the Appropriate Temperature again, then go Finish Brazing on it. I personally, would put it back into the Oven, (Being Armed with the Knowledge about the Temperatures that are Meaningful for this Task..... and I would bring it up to as Close to that Temperature in your Kitchen Oven, or Better Yet, if you are not able to reach anywhere Close to the Required Temperature to Stress Relieve the Brass Barrel, and also achieve the Highest Strength, I would consider bringing it to a Heat Treat Facility, and ask them how much it would Cost to have them Stress Relieve it, and probably Allow it to Cool Slowly. (You will have Learned if letting it Cool Slowly, is the thing to do. Non Ferrous Metals are usually quite different from Ferrous Metals.) If you are suppose to bring it up to a certain Temperature, for so Long, and then let it Cool Slowly, and you don’t want to, or can’t Afford to use the Services of a Heat Treat Facility, then bring it up to the Temperature, or as Close as you can, with your Kitchen Oven, and Hold it for whatever Period of Time your Research May have told you, (if at all) and then Turn the Oven Off, and let it Slowly Cool. USING A TIG WELDER, IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED TO DO. IT MAKES IT A PIECE OF CAKE! CLEANLINESS OF THE WELD AREA IS REQUIRED, FOR THE RESULTS THAT YOU NEED! * Note: You may actually find that all of the Preheating that I have mentioned, is not actually Required, in order to Successfully Braze in the Void, Filling it Perfectly. I have mentioned it as a way to help avoid inducing a Lot of Stress into your Barrel, at the Heat Affected Zone of the Brazed Area. However, when I First noticed you we’re having Trouble with a Void to Fill, I stopped Watching this, to write what I have. I have since seen all of the Abuse this Poor Barrel has received, and you May as well just make the Brazing Rod out of the Same Cast Brass you have, as mentioned, in order to get the Perfect Match with your Barrel. If you use Brazing Rod off the Shelf, you have no idea how closely you are going to Match with the Cast Barrel. If really Far from each other..... it will show up, mot likely as it starts to Tarnish..... Looking it’s Best, when Brightly Polished! I am a Welder, and a Precision R&D Machinist by Trade. I also happen to have a Machined from Solid Steel, 1.5” Bore, Cannon, that a Friend in High School, and I Made. There is a Flat at the Back of the Ball at the Rear of the Barrel, where I Stamped, 1976. The Year I Graduated High School.... Which happens to have been the 200th Birthday of the Birth of our Country!!!!!!! Too COOL!!!!!!!!
You boys better be careful one of my old bosses had two buddies from high school to build a cannon Stood Beside at the first time they shot it and it blew all to hell and killed both of them and they were only like 20 years old true story happened in Ohio
Never forget! THESE GUYS ARE PROFESSIONALS!
Pretty cool idea using the pipe for a barrel. Saves the need for a bigass lathe to bore it out
What brass alloy did you use? Not all brass is of sufficient strength for cannons.
Your honesty on showing the hole made me subscribe. Others wont show that. 👍👍
I was wondering what would have happened if when you found the hole in the cannon. and dropped some flux into the hole, then re-pored the hole to fill it. might that have done the trick or would they not combine to weld the hole?
We tried it. The brass solidifies too quickly to flow properly and then contracts as it cools so it doesn't really adhere. Thanks for the suggestion though!
TH-cam algorithms are too smart, they recommended the first video to me just as this one came out
same
What material did you cast it into?
Stand the casting on end. So the muzzles up straight up. That way if u run out or material or u get shrinkage wen it cools, it can get cut off wen u clean it up
Laughed so hard when the little cannon took a hike XD
That was really funny lol
You need to put a vent at other end of mold to let air out pour till brass comes out the vent
That sure didn't sound like the voice of defeat to me, I look forward to seeing the two of you finish your project! Best of Luck
How about some risers???
Great job, nice realisation
You're great. You try. Thanks lads !
My suggestion for fixing it:
1: thread the steel liner at the muzzle counter clock wise and use a lathe to make a steel rod that's just big enough to bottom out all the way down to the breech end when counter clockwise threads on the rod two thirds up are fully engaged with the muzzle threads of the liner.
2) Drill a hole perpendicularily through the rod extension and push a steel cross bar through.
The cross bar will hold the liner and in position when the brass is re-melted and the rod will prevent the steel liner from deforming under heat and preassure from the molten brass.
3) make a flared foam extension of the barrel around the steel liner extension, adding about 3" to the gun length.
4) Make a reinforced vertical crucible mould around the cannon and extensions as it is with a flat bottom and walls thick enough to support it's weight even when full of liquid metal and mount it all muzzle up in a one-use gas-heated furnace. Make the furnace out of an insulator lined barrel or something.
5) Remove the foam to get a funnel, heat it all up until all of the old brass has melted and then add more ingots outside the barrel extension until all the melted slag overflows into the single use furnace.
6) Keep the heat on for another minute or so to ensure a homogenous melt.
7) turn off the heat and let it all sit and air cool naturally until you can touch the metal, protect it from rain.
8) Break the mould and cut the muzzle back to shape, drill a hole into the steel rod extension and thread it clock wise, use a high torque hex bolt and mount the barrel in a vice to unscrew the rod out of the barrel by screwing the bolt into the rod. (That's the reason for ccw threads on rod and muzzle)
9)Fill in the threads with brass solder and finish up with polish etc.
10) test firing time!
This is the calling I was never able to pursue
How much to build one of those
$3000, one year lead time & a signed waiver!
vent holes are totally a thing. Also, you need a riser of metal to be a "reservoir" of brass (and heat) so that takes the contraction and provides molten metal to the actual workpiece as the metal cools.
One other thing- you stopped in the middle of the pour. Don't do that.
First, try to make a funnel to poor the brass into the mold and second, have a second hole on the opposite end for air to escape from.
it wasnt untill this video that i realized the small scale of the cannon lol
HA! I LOVED IT WHEN YA CHUCKED IT INA POOL R.I.P. IS RIGHT LOVE YA DON'T GIVE UP
Hey guys, you gave it a good shot and learned some stuff too. Sure the cannon didn’t hold up but I’d still call it a win just for the experience. I’d proudly display it if I were you. You could use some auto body filler and some paint on the hole but to be honest I think it’s cool just how it is because it proves it was fired.
Found part one yesterday, good timing
Perfectly titled channel! Bravo!!
Cool videos. Oddly satisfying to watch.
You're welcome!
I came away feeling like 'the winner'!
Holy crap, the funny part is I watched video 1 just a few days ago and was wondering where part 2 was LOL
Love all the honest disclaimers...so refreshing. Lol 👍
So you learned a way to not cast a proper cnnon, good for you, you gave it a shot, which is more than 99.997% of the viewers will do!
Wow, about time, awesome!!
Cut it down and make a mountain howitzer out of it.
you guys deserve more subs
Watch some TH-cam videos, what you need is a vent at the muzzle end to allow the gas to escape. A tower for excess metal to rise into to allow for contraction of the metal as it cools too.
You didn't have a vent hole..
Good job, but you should wear a mask when melting plastic at 4:40 next to your face.
Acetylene could deliver the heat you needed
You know how to fix it? Put the entire barrel in a crucible. Melt the thing back down. And cast it properly this time. You don't need a premade box, just stack some boxes on top of each other. You need 4 bits of wood 8 nails x 2-3 depending on the size. It's not a big job.
Buy a fucking lathe!
saw the barrel of at the first sign of slag contamination that is your limits go smaller next time you are biting of more than you can smelt
Still Not Done..*sigh*
I got an Armsport stainless steal barrel and gun carriage. but I got a Brocken wheel due to an earthquake. long boring story. would be good if we could make a complete working cannon.
Now that’s what I wanted tO see! 😄👍
I got recommended part 1 yesterday and noticed it was done 11 months ago so I assumed it was never going to be finished. Then you release part 2 the next day. Weird
Bradley Brown , same happened to me as well, watched part 1 two days ago.
It's very beautiful though.
Well done guy's 👍
Mic audio too soft. Don't use stereo if you can't balance it properly, export in mono instead. Audacity is a free audio editing software
Dang, looks like a cursed project. But I guess you learned a lot!
Not gonna lie, when I saw this in my Subscribed feed I was like "WTF is 'Masters of Ineptitude'?"
I'm subscribing just so I can say I'm part of the under 650 club
YOU SHOULD HAVE MADE A GATE AND 2 POUR POINTS FROM THE GATE THAT WOULD HAVE ELEVATED YOUR PROBLEM
if you want to build solid, take more thickness of metal, if not to force to load .. you will finish with a bannane
nice looking lad
They made a holo cylinder 100mm x 1m then turned it down.
From that piece they made a cast iron mold that was heated and poured brass into it when it cooled the iron would shrink and so would the brass releasing the cannon.
Then they would hand drill the hole and polish the brass, then they would coat it in paper and wax for transport the wax was very hard when set.
Research it better.
nice job it looked authentic and great as just a model but I think your metal was contaminated too much you were getting more slag then normal ...
You can’t braze brass with a propane torch, you need oxy acetylene, high flow and a tight tip
Wow...looks like you are using smokeless powder. That's not clever. You don't see many modern guns using brass...I wonder why? Maybe the chamber pressure is too high for brass and it could kill you.
Not using smokeless! You are correct that would be dangerous.
nice skills for your age
Keep at it men build bigger furnace # 1 get more safety gear # 2 pour out side # 3 later brofesser!
You didn't make it right you're supposed to make it out of a solid block of material and drill it and shape it to size. Not cast around a thin little tube that's why this happen it wasn't strong at all as you can see..
THANKS :D
#2-🤵👉Warning we R professional Amateurs 👉😳Do not Copy our chit🤓 we blow things up 🙄& burn things down 😁😂👍
Muito bom!
How to Repair the Voids in your Cast Brass Cannon Barrel, for the Best Possible Cosmetic and Structural Results, USING A TIG WELDER - But First:
I have not Proof Read this. Please interpret as Best as possible, any Areas that sound incorrect. I’ve got to go! If
WARNING!!!!!!!!!
I STRONGLY WARN AGAINST EMPLOYING ANY TYPE OF MAJOR REPAIRS OF SIGNIFICANT VOIDS, ANYWHERE IN THE BREACH AREA, SAY.... ANYWHERE BELOW 3” ABOVE THE TRUNNIONS. (Muzzle Up) TO AVOID CAUSING EXTREME STRESS WITHIN THE BARREL AT THE BRAZED AREA IN THE BARREL, LIKELY WEAKENING THE BARREL TO THE POINT OF MAKING IT EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS TO FIRE, BEYOND JUST PACKING IN DAMP NEWSPAPER, TO ACHIEVE ENOUGH RESISTANCE TO GUARANTEE A LARGE REPORT UPON FIRING. OF COURSE IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT ALL RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ANY OUTCOME, DUE TO EMPLOYING THESE REPAIRS, ARE SOLELY YOUR RESPONSIBILITY. THESE METHODS OF REPAIR, WILL GIVE YOU THE BEST POSSIBLE
“COSMETIC REPAIRS”, BUT ANY BRAZING UPON A CANNON, WILL DEFINITELY CAUSE CHANGES OF GRAIN STRUCTURE AND STRENGTH OF THE BARREL, AND I CANNOT REPEAT TOO MUCH, THAT ANY ATTEMPTS TO DO SO, ARE TAKEN AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!!!
First of all, Create Brazing Rod from the Exact Same Material that the Barrel is Cast from. If you are able to even Cast some ~ 1” x 1” x 8” (Minimum - Can Be Much Larger) Pieces (for Example), letting them Cool on their own, you will have a Great Start. Remove any significant amounts of Sand from the Outside of the Casing, so as to not Destroy the Bandsaw Blade you are about to use. (If you make your Molds out of Carbon, you won’t have the Sand Problem) Using a Good Bandsaw with a Skip Tooth Blade, Cut Up the Brass Bar, into No Larger than
1/4” x 1/4” x the Longest Lengths that you have been able to Cast. Make sure that you have Cut all 4 Sides of the Brass, so you have Extremely Clean Brazing Rod without Coolant. I suggest 1/4” x 1/4” Rod, because I am seeing that you have a Large area to Fill in. 1/8” x 1/8” Rod would be Great to have, along with the 1/4” x 1/4” Rod!
Prepare the void in the Cannon Barrel, Down to absolutely Bright, Bare Metal, and for at least 3/8” of the Good, Surface of the Barrel, surrounding the Void. You will want to Clean both the Barrel’s Critical Void Surface, and the Adjoining Good Barrel Surface, as well as the Brazing Rod, Extremely Clean, of any Oils or other Surface Contaminants, with Acetone, just prior to Brazing.
* I suggest you Research what is the Best Temperature that a Cast Brass Cannon should be Heated to, in Order to attain the most Stress Free, as well as the Strongest Grain Structure. That shouldn’t be too difficult to find out, However, you probably have no Idea what the Closest Type of Brass your Cast Brass Barrel is to.
At any rate, I suggest you (Preheat) the Barrel, just Prior to Brazing on it. This will reduce the Stresses you are about to induce in your Barrel. You see, you May as well see what the Best Temperature you should use to Stress Relieve the Barrel, and if you can attain that Temperature with a Household Oven (I don’t think so), the you should Preheat the Barrel, to that Temperature, or to what you can, and having Setup your Welding Table Ahead of Time, for you to be able to lay the Barrel, onto for Example, two Wooden Vee Blocks, with Probably at least 1/2” Thick of Woven Fiberglass, to take the Heat, Insulating the Hot Barrel from the Wooden Vee Blocks. It should be High enough to allow you to turn the Barrel to the Best Possible Position, by the Person doing the Brazing. If just Laying it down on the Table, happens to allow you to be in the proper Position to Braze, make sure to set it on Wooden Blocks, and ~ 1/2” of the Woven Fiberglass.
Quickly Braze in the Voids on the Barrel. If for any reason you had to stop Brazing before you we’re Finished.... so Long, that the Barrel Cooled Significantly, put it back into the Oven, and Bring it back up to the Appropriate Temperature again, then go Finish Brazing on it. I personally, would put it back into the Oven, (Being Armed with the Knowledge about the Temperatures that are Meaningful for this Task..... and I would bring it up to as Close to that Temperature in your Kitchen Oven, or Better Yet, if you are not able to reach anywhere Close to the Required Temperature to Stress Relieve the Brass Barrel, and also achieve the Highest Strength, I would consider bringing it to a Heat Treat Facility, and ask them how much it would Cost to have them Stress Relieve it, and probably Allow it to Cool Slowly. (You will have Learned if letting it Cool Slowly, is the thing to do. Non Ferrous Metals are usually quite different from Ferrous Metals.) If you are suppose to bring it up to a certain Temperature, for so Long, and then let it Cool Slowly, and you don’t want to, or can’t
Afford to use the Services of a Heat Treat Facility, then bring it up to the Temperature, or as Close as you can, with your Kitchen Oven, and Hold it for whatever Period of Time your Research May have told you, (if at all) and then Turn the Oven Off, and let it Slowly Cool.
USING A TIG WELDER, IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED TO DO. IT MAKES IT A PIECE OF CAKE! CLEANLINESS OF THE WELD AREA IS REQUIRED, FOR THE RESULTS THAT YOU NEED!
* Note: You may actually find that all of the Preheating that I have mentioned, is not actually Required, in order to Successfully Braze in the Void, Filling it Perfectly. I have mentioned it as a way to help avoid inducing a Lot of Stress into your Barrel, at the Heat Affected Zone of the Brazed Area. However, when I First noticed you we’re having Trouble with a Void to Fill, I stopped Watching this, to write what I have. I have since seen all of the Abuse this Poor Barrel has received, and you May as well just make the Brazing Rod out of the Same Cast Brass you have, as mentioned, in order to get the Perfect Match with your Barrel. If you use Brazing Rod off the Shelf, you have no idea how closely you are going to Match with the Cast Barrel. If really Far from each other..... it will show up, mot likely as it starts to Tarnish..... Looking it’s Best, when Brightly Polished!
I am a Welder, and a Precision R&D Machinist by Trade. I also happen to have a Machined from Solid Steel, 1.5” Bore, Cannon, that a Friend in High School, and I Made. There is a Flat at the Back of the Ball at the Rear of the Barrel, where I Stamped, 1976. The Year I Graduated High School.... Which happens to have been the 200th Birthday of the Birth of our Country!!!!!!! Too COOL!!!!!!!!
I bet their parents got gray hair way before their time.
Convert to WVO like i did!
I'm sorry you guys building a bomb? You need to more research.
You boys better be careful one of my old bosses had two buddies from high school to build a cannon Stood Beside at the first time they shot it and it blew all to hell and killed both of them and they were only like 20 years old true story happened in Ohio
Nice try...think it through and take your time next time
You guys are really bad at this. You need to research much more and do a lot of testing of the strength of your bronze.
What a mess ........
Wtf is up with tht laugh
H*ck
Hey this is a christian channel
@@mordechaimordechai and this is the internet :P who cares?
Am unsubscribing to help others remain in the Under 650 Club.