I use the foot brake and engine braking via the lower gears quite often when wanting to reduce my speed down quickly, but without risking skidding, works well!
Just passed this morning with 2 minors! Thankyou for all of your videos, they have been so helpful in my learning and will definitely be watching all of your future videos
The last option is how we're taught to drive in France. In fact, it's part of the specification, meaning that if we don't use engine braking when slowing down (along with the brakes), we may get points deducted (equivalent to a minor fault) in our driving test, if we do it repetitively. We're told that using both increases brake power as it uses the engine and the brakes to slow us down and wears the brakes, the clutch and the gears less than using them separately.
From my experience of driving 2 Canadian winters in a manual Civic, yes a combination of both braking and engine braking helps a ton with control and slowing down smoothly. Also putting the car in 1 gear higher than you would in dry conditions helps with grip when accelerating because you have less wheel spin.
@@ConquerDriving thanks bud, really helped me tie up loose ends for it, broke my wrist 20 mins before leaving the house on my last test so it was 3rd times the charm 🤣
Skidding with wheel brakes is only easier because they are much more powerful than any amount of engine braking. Poor downshifting that results in spikes in wheel force can break traction just as easily as over-application of the brakes. Curiously, cars equipped with CVTs that can engine brake and downshift continuously are the less likely to break traction than cars with gears doing the same simply due to the constant force applied being less likely to overcome the force of static friction on the driven tires. I have to agree that your friction brakes are just better for the control they provide overall. Skidding is better avoided by learning how to judge the appropriate speed in the first place for any given condition. Great video as always.
Yeah absolutely, I was shown when driving in snow to never be in a situation where you actually need to stop suddenly. Approaching roundabouts at less than 1/4 the speed you usually would, for instance... just hope the person behind you knows too.
It’s also worth noting that most modern cars have a form of what VW would call MSR (motor drag torque regulation) incorporated into the ABS and engine control modules. When the ABS detects the wheels locking up due to engine braking, it will actually request more torque from the engine controller to eliminate the lock up.
Engine braking can cause a slid. I have a video on my channel of my 2000 Tacoma skidding and doing a 180 after I released the clutch in 2nd. Granted, it was a 4wd truck in 2wd at the time. Had it been in 4wd at the time, I seriously doubt it would have slid out of control. I generally don't rely on engine braking on slippery roads, and if I do, I won't keep the rpm much higher than 2000.
With the 2nd gear u wanna be very careful with the engine break as it's powerful. The skidding might have been caused by releasing the clutch too quickly or putting it in 2nd too early.
If you engine brake with 2nd gear on ice then yeah you're more likely to skid. Engine braking all the way to 3rd gear and then I would use the brakes and only 2nd when the revs get low.
I concur. A colleague drove us both to Leeds from Cardiff during the pre-Beast from the East - when there was a red warning in place for snow and ice (long story, we had an uncancellable exam the next morning). We were OK on the motorway apart from a lot of reckless drivers throwing snowdrifts at us from Lane 4 on the M5, but at Strensham services a kid ran out in front of our Doblo van (An SDE FWD with considerable engine braking due to low gear ratios) on the frozen, compacted sludge. Despite no braking, just releasing the gas in 1st caused us to steer uncontrollably into parked cars. We needed a mental health break after that leg of the drive (after also almost crashing on the M50 shortly before...)
This is handy to see. I passed my test 3 months ago and only really had one day of snow and ice. My stupid arse decided to accidentally go down a road entirely made of ice, narrowish country road and a car coming towards me. I started to brake but realised I was just sliding towards the ditch I wanted to pull into, not end up in.. I used a little braking and mostly engine braking (sub 20mph) and it seemed to work. I wonder how many other drivers nowadays who pass their test as recently as I know to do that.. certainly food for thought.
It should be quite ovbious not to A put too much power down on ice, B brake hard or at all if you are already skidding. In the theory test it specifically says if you aquaplane you do not brake or steer and instead just remove your foot from the throttle aka use engine braking until the vehicle regains traction. Aquaplane and ice are very similiar and the theory is the same both are a loss of traction scenario.
I think this is one of the topics that are hard to explain, and easy to misunderstand. The general advice I give is to always stay in gear while going downhill in icy or snowy condition. Stay in a lower gear and only press the clutch if you're getting under the idle RPM. Many people missunderstand this as using the engine brake. However this advice is not about using the engine braking per se. It's about braking while still having the engine connected to the wheels: When you have icy conditions and the road is slippery the car will brake much better if the engine is still connected to the wheels. As soon as the clutch is pressed you'll loose a lot of braking power. The advice to use a lower gear is actually just so you're able to brake to a slower speed until you have to press the clutch. From experience many people won't believe: I can only advice anyone to go at icy conditions to an empty parking lot and just try it out. I have an assumption why the car can brake better with the engine connected: When the engine is disconnected there's nearly no moving mass left. When the brakes engage the wheels will slow down very fast and the ABS will release the brakes right away. When the engine is still connected you have a much higher moving mass. The tires will decrease their speed more smoothly and the ABS won't cut the braking power immediately again
Even in uk winter tyres are not required I still use them low profile tyres that many cars are fitted with are really not suitable for snow and braking is still reduced even with ABS and Electronic braking
On trucks, there is device called retarder, designed to slow down big trucks and buses without stressing out the brakes, and the way it works, it slows down only rear wheels, and many people say that you must not use it when the road is wet and covered with snow or ice, because as you said, only 2 wheels are used to slow down, and braking force is only concerned to those wheels, which reduces overall grip, resulting skidding
You could not use the gears to slow down my dads old two stroke wartburg it used to have a free wheeling system to stop the engine seizing up from oil starvation on over run if you get an electric car it uses re generation to help Recharge the battery which helps slow the car down a lot
Before the days of ABS keeping the car in gear while braking reduced the chance of the wheels locking up as in order for the wheels to lockup the engine would have to stall.
@@redblade8160 😀 Oh no the ABS is making a vibration. It must be damaging the car. So I'll apply less pressure. This is what more than some people really think and do can you believe it.
Engine braking doesn't stop skidding. The whole point of skidding is the fact that you lose fiction between the wheels and the road surface, combined with the momentum of the car and the torque of the wheels. The torque is the biggest thing that contributes to skidding. Which is why it's better to be in a higher than normal gear in slippery conditions. Just break slowly, don't go as fast and stay in a higher gear than normal.
Yes. Let the ABS do what it's best at (especially the newer ABS) preventing skidding on each wheel in icy conditions. When using engine braking on say a front wheel drive car and then you apply the brakes you now have extra braking force on your front wheels that your ABS may not know about and too little braking on your rears which may not be an issue on a dry or wet road but on black ice you don't want to find out at that moment the shortcomings of engine braking and ABS combined.
I thought most cars only brake with the front wheels as the back ones have those drum brakes for the handbrake only? One of our cars had proper disks on all 4 wheels but the other car only has them on the front so presumably, that one only brakes on the front?
@@ConquerDriving Rear brakes might provide 30% of stopping power on dry roads with quick braking but up to 40 to 50% of braking on icy roads because in gradual braking there is less weight transfer to the front of the car. This means the rear brakes are even more important when braking in ice and snow.
6:20 i'd imagine the ECU would have an accelerometer that would detect you're still definitely moving despite the wheels saying otherwise. by "ECU" i mean whatever control unit is responsible for the brakes.
@@ConquerDriving i think just about any car that can display how many g's are acting on it (like through a corner) has an accelerometer that's measuring it. i mean, they're relatively small and inexpensive devices that are put into every modern phone, too. truthfully though, i don't know whether the manufacturers thought about "relating" this info to wheel speed or not.
I have a question when I want to go slow like ina parking lot do I need to rev to move because I noticed my car moves when I slowly let go of the clutch without putting gas into it
Full electric cars such as the LEAF have 'engine braking' capability close to 1/2 G. if you want. with no brake pad wear, no brake heating and reduced tyre wear. Other EVs have selectable 'regen braking' but all are designed on reducing the dependence on brakes in most normal driving.
@@ConquerDrivingif it's like engine brake with 2 wheels only with much higher force could cause problems in low grip conditions. Like retarder on trucks or buses
Trucks and tractors will typically have an engine retarder which is a stronger form of engine braking, the retarder essentially increases resistance from within the exhaust making the engine braking effect higher. In a tractor you do have the normal engine braking effect using gears too but the retarder is added engine braking on top. Brake retarders are used mostly because of steep downhill sections where a heavy vehicle will burn out its brakes and suffer heat fade without the use of a retarder.
Haven’t tried this but what if you go down a gear and brake at the clutch bite and I mean braking compelety trying to stop. Could you damage something and anything going wrong?
Changing down the gears to help you slow down is good practise. The car can handle it, rev matching helps reduce wear: th-cam.com/video/-RnPUq2yut4/w-d-xo.html
Slowing down in an automatic is not the same when selecting manual, the car goes into first manual gear first and the car is still going too fast for first gear!
Great video 👍 Mr Richard can i ask you a question about driving. My cousin is pregnant and she can drive but my aunt tells her not to drive while she's pregnant what is your opinion and advice on the matter??
I use the foot brake and engine braking via the lower gears quite often when wanting to reduce my speed down quickly, but without risking skidding, works well!
Hung Le Ba.
I use reverse thrust and a parachute!
@@redblade8160 😂
Just passed this morning with 2 minors! Thankyou for all of your videos, they have been so helpful in my learning and will definitely be watching all of your future videos
That's great to hear, congratulations on passing!
The last option is how we're taught to drive in France. In fact, it's part of the specification, meaning that if we don't use engine braking when slowing down (along with the brakes), we may get points deducted (equivalent to a minor fault) in our driving test, if we do it repetitively. We're told that using both increases brake power as it uses the engine and the brakes to slow us down and wears the brakes, the clutch and the gears less than using them separately.
Passed my test at 3rd time of asking and started watching you after 2nd fail. Thanks. Loads.of.great tips
That's great to hear, congratulations on passing!
Just passed today with 0 minors first try your videos were amazing help
That's great news, congratulations on passing!
From my experience of driving 2 Canadian winters in a manual Civic, yes a combination of both braking and engine braking helps a ton with control and slowing down smoothly. Also putting the car in 1 gear higher than you would in dry conditions helps with grip when accelerating because you have less wheel spin.
Thanks for these videos buddy. Took a 2 year break from driving and passed today. Largely because of your videos. Appreciate it mate.
That's great to hear, congratulations on passing!
@@ConquerDriving thanks bud, really helped me tie up loose ends for it, broke my wrist 20 mins before leaving the house on my last test so it was 3rd times the charm 🤣
Think it was Ayrton Senna that said something along the lines of; if you're not using engine braking you're leaving lap time on the table.
Skidding with wheel brakes is only easier because they are much more powerful than any amount of engine braking. Poor downshifting that results in spikes in wheel force can break traction just as easily as over-application of the brakes. Curiously, cars equipped with CVTs that can engine brake and downshift continuously are the less likely to break traction than cars with gears doing the same simply due to the constant force applied being less likely to overcome the force of static friction on the driven tires. I have to agree that your friction brakes are just better for the control they provide overall. Skidding is better avoided by learning how to judge the appropriate speed in the first place for any given condition. Great video as always.
Yeah absolutely, I was shown when driving in snow to never be in a situation where you actually need to stop suddenly. Approaching roundabouts at less than 1/4 the speed you usually would, for instance... just hope the person behind you knows too.
It’s also worth noting that most modern cars have a form of what VW would call MSR (motor drag torque regulation) incorporated into the ABS and engine control modules. When the ABS detects the wheels locking up due to engine braking, it will actually request more torque from the engine controller to eliminate the lock up.
I didn't know that.
@@ConquerDriving No problem!
Engine braking can cause a slid. I have a video on my channel of my 2000 Tacoma skidding and doing a 180 after I released the clutch in 2nd. Granted, it was a 4wd truck in 2wd at the time. Had it been in 4wd at the time, I seriously doubt it would have slid out of control. I generally don't rely on engine braking on slippery roads, and if I do, I won't keep the rpm much higher than 2000.
With the 2nd gear u wanna be very careful with the engine break as it's powerful. The skidding might have been caused by releasing the clutch too quickly or putting it in 2nd too early.
I’m guessing that the 2wd is rwd? Doesn’t that affect skidding?
If you engine brake with 2nd gear on ice then yeah you're more likely to skid. Engine braking all the way to 3rd gear and then I would use the brakes and only 2nd when the revs get low.
I concur. A colleague drove us both to Leeds from Cardiff during the pre-Beast from the East - when there was a red warning in place for snow and ice (long story, we had an uncancellable exam the next morning). We were OK on the motorway apart from a lot of reckless drivers throwing snowdrifts at us from Lane 4 on the M5, but at Strensham services a kid ran out in front of our Doblo van (An SDE FWD with considerable engine braking due to low gear ratios) on the frozen, compacted sludge. Despite no braking, just releasing the gas in 1st caused us to steer uncontrollably into parked cars. We needed a mental health break after that leg of the drive (after also almost crashing on the M50 shortly before...)
This is handy to see. I passed my test 3 months ago and only really had one day of snow and ice. My stupid arse decided to accidentally go down a road entirely made of ice, narrowish country road and a car coming towards me. I started to brake but realised I was just sliding towards the ditch I wanted to pull into, not end up in..
I used a little braking and mostly engine braking (sub 20mph) and it seemed to work. I wonder how many other drivers nowadays who pass their test as recently as I know to do that.. certainly food for thought.
It should be quite ovbious not to A put too much power down on ice, B brake hard or at all if you are already skidding. In the theory test it specifically says if you aquaplane you do not brake or steer and instead just remove your foot from the throttle aka use engine braking until the vehicle regains traction. Aquaplane and ice are very similiar and the theory is the same both are a loss of traction scenario.
Your videos make my driving next level.. Thank you
I think this is one of the topics that are hard to explain, and easy to misunderstand.
The general advice I give is to always stay in gear while going downhill in icy or snowy condition. Stay in a lower gear and only press the clutch if you're getting under the idle RPM.
Many people missunderstand this as using the engine brake. However this advice is not about using the engine braking per se. It's about braking while still having the engine connected to the wheels: When you have icy conditions and the road is slippery the car will brake much better if the engine is still connected to the wheels. As soon as the clutch is pressed you'll loose a lot of braking power. The advice to use a lower gear is actually just so you're able to brake to a slower speed until you have to press the clutch.
From experience many people won't believe: I can only advice anyone to go at icy conditions to an empty parking lot and just try it out.
I have an assumption why the car can brake better with the engine connected: When the engine is disconnected there's nearly no moving mass left. When the brakes engage the wheels will slow down very fast and the ABS will release the brakes right away. When the engine is still connected you have a much higher moving mass. The tires will decrease their speed more smoothly and the ABS won't cut the braking power immediately again
Your assumption is water
Educational indeed.... watching from South Africa.
as a canadian i can confirm. engine braking works well in winter in heavy snow and icy condition
I have heard this from many people who live in places with harsh winters.
Even in uk winter tyres are not required I still use them low profile tyres that many cars are fitted with are really not suitable for snow and braking is still reduced even with ABS and Electronic braking
On trucks, there is device called retarder, designed to slow down big trucks and buses without stressing out the brakes, and the way it works, it slows down only rear wheels, and many people say that you must not use it when the road is wet and covered with snow or ice, because as you said, only 2 wheels are used to slow down, and braking force is only concerned to those wheels, which reduces overall grip, resulting skidding
really informative! Thank you! I love the way you explain evrythin :)
I'd love to see a series on Rich teaching a willing learner from beginning to test day on the channel!
Been watching Ur videos for reference for some time now for theory and driving test theory 7 times. Driving test 2 times second go only two minors!!!!
Congratulations on passing! I'm guessing you mean 2 minors and no serious or dangerous.
@@ConquerDriving yes!
Like the you explain how to drive manual vehicles
You could not use the gears to slow down my dads old two stroke wartburg it used to have a free wheeling system to stop the engine seizing up from oil starvation on over run if you get an electric car it uses re generation to help Recharge the battery which helps slow the car down a lot
03:55 Oh boy, going down that kind of hill the car better have some parachutes 🤣🤣
excellent advice and clear explanations as usual for your videos. I am a great fan as you make it understandable. Thanks again.
Thanks Richard 😄👍.
"Best of Both Worlds" Richard is a Hannah Montana fan
Great video as per, On a completely different note really sad to hear you sold the vx220, my favorite car that was!
I've owned two so far. May end up with another in the future.
Before the days of ABS keeping the car in gear while braking reduced the chance of the wheels locking up as in order for the wheels to lockup the engine would have to stall.
Michael Skelton
Many people don't know how to correctly apply the ABS when needed; are you one of those people?
@@redblade8160 😀 Oh no the ABS is making a vibration. It must be damaging the car. So I'll apply less pressure. This is what more than some people really think and do can you believe it.
Engine braking doesn't stop skidding. The whole point of skidding is the fact that you lose fiction between the wheels and the road surface, combined with the momentum of the car and the torque of the wheels. The torque is the biggest thing that contributes to skidding. Which is why it's better to be in a higher than normal gear in slippery conditions. Just break slowly, don't go as fast and stay in a higher gear than normal.
True.
Yes. Let the ABS do what it's best at (especially the newer ABS) preventing skidding on each wheel in icy conditions. When using engine braking on say a front wheel drive car and then you apply the brakes you now have extra braking force on your front wheels that your ABS may not know about and too little braking on your rears which may not be an issue on a dry or wet road but on black ice you don't want to find out at that moment the shortcomings of engine braking and ABS combined.
I thought most cars only brake with the front wheels as the back ones have those drum brakes for the handbrake only? One of our cars had proper disks on all 4 wheels but the other car only has them on the front so presumably, that one only brakes on the front?
All cars use all four wheels for braking. If you lose your rear brakes you know about it. Rear brakes provide about 30%+ of the stopping power.
@@ConquerDriving Rear brakes might provide 30% of stopping power on dry roads with quick braking but up to 40 to 50% of braking on icy roads because in gradual braking there is less weight transfer to the front of the car. This means the rear brakes are even more important when braking in ice and snow.
Thanks
Great video
fourth way to stop. drive into a wall.
6:20 i'd imagine the ECU would have an accelerometer that would detect you're still definitely moving despite the wheels saying otherwise. by "ECU" i mean whatever control unit is responsible for the brakes.
It's possible that some have that, I've not heard of any though.
@@ConquerDriving i think just about any car that can display how many g's are acting on it (like through a corner) has an accelerometer that's measuring it. i mean, they're relatively small and inexpensive devices that are put into every modern phone, too. truthfully though, i don't know whether the manufacturers thought about "relating" this info to wheel speed or not.
I have a question when I want to go slow like ina parking lot do I need to rev to move because I noticed my car moves when I slowly let go of the clutch without putting gas into it
Maybe this video will help: th-cam.com/video/UdTSRBJrw7Y/w-d-xo.html
Full electric cars such as the LEAF have 'engine braking' capability close to 1/2 G. if you want. with no brake pad wear, no brake heating and reduced tyre wear. Other EVs have selectable 'regen braking' but all are designed on reducing the dependence on brakes in most normal driving.
This is true, I've driven some electric cars with this feature now. th-cam.com/video/5HwMgyeWT4k/w-d-xo.html
@@ConquerDrivingif it's like engine brake with 2 wheels only with much higher force could cause problems in low grip conditions. Like retarder on trucks or buses
Do you support EVs?
10:59 That place name is even worse than "Bumhole Avenue" in the mock test video...
Omg
You need a tv show
How this engine braking is different from one in the Trucks/ Tractors?
Trucks and tractors will typically have an engine retarder which is a stronger form of engine braking, the retarder essentially increases resistance from within the exhaust making the engine braking effect higher. In a tractor you do have the normal engine braking effect using gears too but the retarder is added engine braking on top. Brake retarders are used mostly because of steep downhill sections where a heavy vehicle will burn out its brakes and suffer heat fade without the use of a retarder.
That's right, diesel engines have wide open throttle so there has to be a system in place to create engine braking. It can be called a Jake brake.
Hi can you make a video about driving a pick up Thx
I'm sorry but I don't have access or much experience in such vehicles.
@@ConquerDriving No problem you making good video's already
How do you do engine braking with Automatic cars?
Most give you the option of going down the gears manually to increase engine braking. But automatic cars use engine braking automatically anyway.
Haven’t tried this but what if you go down a gear and brake at the clutch bite and I mean braking compelety trying to stop. Could you damage something and anything going wrong?
Changing down the gears to help you slow down is good practise. The car can handle it, rev matching helps reduce wear: th-cam.com/video/-RnPUq2yut4/w-d-xo.html
New video!!!! 🥰
I tried Engine braking while going down hill and it worked. However, this is trick in case of traffic in down hill area.
So informative as usual. Is it possible for you to make a video on how to operate a 4 by 4 manual car on sandy, mountainous and mud roads?
Thank you. Unfortunately I don't have access to such vehicles and terrain.
Slowing down in an automatic is not the same when selecting manual, the car goes into first manual gear first and the car is still going too fast for first gear!
It depends on the automatic, some are better than others.
👍👍👍
third way of stopping: take foot off accelerator, coast to a rest. Not so recommended, or even legal, but may be useful in an emergency.
How would it be illegal lol
Quick answer:No it can't prevent skidding.
Great video 👍
Mr Richard can i ask you a question about driving. My cousin is pregnant and she can drive but my aunt tells her not to drive while she's pregnant what is your opinion and advice on the matter??
One of the first people I taught passed in the late stages of pregnancy.
@@ConquerDriving cool 😃
pelic up road vidio wark
Thanks
♥️