The shop that had the truck four months KNEW the starter was disconnected and had a broken terminal and never told the owner when he picked up the truck? Nice. Quality Work.
@@wagoosh78 Yes, and no doubt they (that shop) were the ones who snapped it off, as well as removed the bat. cable. Why they stopped at that point without removing the starter themselves (and installing a rebuilt/new one) is only known to them.
Ivan. Those "Mechanics" before you ARE NOT mechanics. They just have a label on their shirts. Once again, YOU ARE DA MAN. You are one of my heros. Thanks.
Just a thought but,if all this just started from the other shop screwing around with the starter and breaking off the connector, leaving the main battery cable disconnected,I pretty much don't think I'd let them install a belt and oil change 🤔🤨. Just a thought 😅😂🎉
The starter connections finding, amazing. smh. After 4 months not difficult to understand the customer being surprised. As usual, nice work! Another one worth the tow to PHAD!
thanks for this video, especially showing how you extracted the pins and tightened the spring tension, would like to see how you extract and tighten other shapes of pins as well
I agree, that other shop isn't qualified to change oil or anything else on a car. I wonder how much they charged the customer for butchering his car and telling lies!
Thank you for posting Pt2. My 2 cents to understand what happened. There was a real pin problem, which you fixed. The oddly broken starter was most likely caused by a rookie employee who didn’t want to own his mistake.
As a past mechanic, being a beached whale, I think the first thing I would have done is check the starter, as a 78 yer old, working on the older vehicles, that is where I would always start. Not that you didn't do a good job, if we would have had scanners back in the sixties and seventies, I still would have checked the scanner first, no codes, go down to the starter. Great job on the process you did, you eliminated all possibilities first. Yay for Ivan. Love your videos, learned so much on these newer cars from watching you and Mr O}.
We are in a world that finding a trustworthy mechanic is rare. Finding a "Ian" i hope i spelled your name correctly is next to impossible, and when you do he is slammed with work so much.
I really like watching you troubleshoot. I learn a lot just by watching you. As a 50 yr aircraft mechanic we troubleshoot a lot also but with 'old school" circuits on small aircraft. Nothing with computer circuits other than avionics. As I'm "old school" I would have gone to the starter post first to see if power was even getting to the start solenoid and then worked backwards but I haven't used diagnostic tools other than basic blue tooth code readers NICE JOB on bringing to life a dead whale that others couldn't fix AGAIN! 🙂 I should add that I've learned to check pin tensions in troubleshooting from watching you and it saved my bacon a couple of months ago on a small airplane problem! THANKS
Not to criticize the troubleshooting procedure, but if you had checked for power at the "S" terminal of the solenoid or put 12 volts to it and verified the starter even works, engine is not locked up, etc within the first hour of raising the hood. Everybody wants to "scan" for codes as the first step. Then start troubleshooting from the ign switch end down to the starter. Eventually you will figure it out from either end of the circuit though! Good job catching those loose connector pins is what separates the professional from the parts changer!
He’s got a bit of a history with that. Tries to do it all from inside the car and not under the hood. “We would have never fixed this car without the picoscope” is often heard. Does not do a thorough visual check of all wiring and hoses, which often means touching them. He’s a firm believer in not touching anything under the hood for fear of “fixing it accidentally”. I get where he’s coming from, but it’s a done a bit overboard most times.
Ivan has a system. First you completely ignore the network was off line at the beginning; did you watch part 1? (IOW it never would have started without first bringing the networks online; so scanning was a necessity especially when you are dealing with a vehicle that has been hacked and probed before you got it. Further, there are often faster ways in some circumstances, but using his system he almost always finds problems within his first hour of diagnostics that eludes those that waste months trying to test specific circuits that, as in this case are only obvious after the fact.
The no-crank was due to TWO separate problems: No-Comm with the TCM/ECM and the disconnected starter. Sure, you can diagnose these issues in any order. But quoting the customer for a new starter WITHOUT first repairing the network and verifying circuit integrity would be the WRONG approach ;)
The wiring diagram and knowing how to read them is the best diagnostic tool you can find. Got to love the starter install , someone left you quite a mess! Probably time to check the grounds on that truck if the starter lost it’s ground.
Great diagnosis man. It wasn't as simple as just the starter being broken. All of the pin tension issues absolutely needed to be addressed. A lot of people would have found the starter problem, but those bad connections all over the place would have caused so many issues. Great work man!
Ivan, I think you are one of the few really great automotive diagnosticians out there. Always learn a lot watching you. Your TH-cam training beats all the dealer training out there.
Ivan, i find it hard to believe that the shop had it for 4 months and coudnt cure it and basically it was just a wire broken of the starter, and as you said it wasnt difficult to change, what a strange garage that must have been...F in Uk.
If your a do it yourself mechanic and don't have the fine tip multimeter adaptors it's easy to make something up to do a job. Just go down to your local garage and ask them nicely for a couple of inches of different size mig welding wire. It's normally copper coated, and it's fairly stiff. I find the normal .8mm wire is perfect for most connectors, for really small connectors use the .6mm wire.
Thanks for the video. Small town shop close by me does good on the basics, but doesn't have the modern computer tools. I've asked. Good honest people, and know what they do. But wouldn't be able to do diagnostic like Ivan for sure.
I would refuse to work on anything some other shop had messed with....nothing but guaranteed aggravation and half truths....Ivan has the patience of a saint....great job
I am with your opinion on all these power probes and relay adaptors. Sure it may make it a little more convenient in some circumstances. I have been jumping relays and using headlight bulbs for loads with long heavy duty jumper wires a decade before all these cute tools came out. Like you say, if you know how a circuit works, you don't need this stuff. I would rather spend the money on a cam locking tool or a scope accessory. As always Ivan, great job.
20 to 25 years ago you would check the starting circuit for integrity. I did it that way. Now with communication lines between modules, then the modules verifying all conditions are met and no codes to cause more problems, you then get a start signal. THEN you verify starter CIRCUIT integrity. This is the way it's done now as Ivan explained. It's not only the best way, it's also a CYA way. If it's your own vehicle, it's up to you! Thank you for this video. Good job Ivan.
Good back to the basics video Ivan. We often get lost in the weeds with the technology. I appreciated your comment about doing diag with basic tools so that you understood what you were looking at. This is the issue with dealerships operating from a flow chart rather than thinking through an issue. Thank you!
The only way those pins could be loose is from the other shop putting a meter probe in it. Removing and replacing the connection shouldn’t have done it. As for the starter being broke, a visual inspection solved that problem. Can’t see it if you don’t look at it. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great job, Ivan! How could a no-crank vehicle be in a shop for four months and nobody even looked at the starter? Sure it had weird no-comm problems with TCM and ECM, but still...
Loved every minute of it Ivan. Fantastic diagnosis which wasn't hard; just had to follow the procedure. I don't understand how vehicles are at shops for months at a time. When I have a tough one, I can't sleep until I figure it out. I ran into the DLC pins issue on my brother's F350. He has one of those "go faster" plugins that stays in the DLC. Unfortunately, the plugin's male pins are thicker than what they should be and they opened up the terminals. My scanner wouldn't connect. Had to tighten the pins just like you did. Regardless, nice job as usual!
they should of brought it to you in the first place would have saved them alot of money and frustration and time i look foreward to ur videos every day i learn alot and how to apply my basics.
I use a good pair of pliers to tighten connector female halves. Key is to have a lot of control over the force you apply; you need to stop quickly when you feel movement.
@mikeafa1 The other shop replaced the TCM after testing. They also replaced the ECM and r&r the entire engine harness after ohming it out. Pin fitment was a problem built in after the initial problem was addressed. So again, what was the initial concern?
@@TreyCook21according to the symptoms the original problem was indeed terminal fretting loose pins at the TCM. Everything else like the snapped starter stud was collateral damage 😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yes, the symptoms you encountered. What about 4 months ago? It doesn't really matter. Well done on getting the issue fixed.
Ivan, I wish I had your patience. I love your methodical approach which in this case is exactly what this truck needed. It's nice to know its back on the road again. Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
Another great video back to basics and some understanding of pin tension wins. Was following and thinking the same way all this time watching your skills does sink in thanks Ivan.
I can't believe how easy that starter was to change, compared to the one on my 04 F150. Two bolts straight up from the bottom. Darn Good engineering by GM.
I am speechless 😮. How in Dante's hell can one destroy something and realize what you have messed up. In the seventies in the Army I changed starters on ten ton trucks to quarter ton jeeps and made mistakes but do not not knowing when I busted something.
Happy Sunday. Another happy GM off into the sunset. Kinda wonder if that Interstate was spanked causing some of the belt noise. Nice straight forward work Ivan . Have a great week. 👍👍🇺🇸
Got to love older GM trucks for starter replacement. Easy peasy. I do have a set of those relay testing adaptors, but they are not worth the effort to be honest. Now those test relays with the on/off switch on them are worth looking into IMO. They can help you determine if you're looking for a bad load or control side problem very quickly.
There's some dummies out there. Another channel he tore all the insulation off the main wiring harness looking for a bad wire. One thing for sure, whoever was working on it does not understand basic electricity!
This might have been better as a one part video. It seems like a lot of people commenting forgot there was a part 1, where the loose terminal problems were found - now there's "all it needed was a visual inspection".
When i diag a no crank condition, I typically start at the starter relay. Depending on what you find at the relay, it can point you towards the problem area.
For slipping belts - don't use WD40, use belt spray like the CRC Belt Grip Pro. It's of course a temporary fix for a slipping belt. WD40 will just make the belt slip more but you won't hear it.
Ivan, anybody who seeks you out for repairs knows how you operate. I would of had you do the oil change and belt without hesitation. I felt like this repair was under your pay grade. lol
Re the belt squeaks. Assuming the belt is actually good, try this. With the engine OFF, sprinkle “ Barkeep cleanser” or “Comet” on ribs of belt. Where the belt comes off the tensioner, or an idler, a vee is formed and a good place to put the cleanser…say a tablespoon full. Start the engine, cloud of dust, but noise will go away and stay gone. Petroleum products no good. Wd didn’t last, did it? Try the cleanser.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that's still nuts. Good to see you testing the new one b4 install. The last starter I put on was faulty from the factory. New parts suck!
My 2002 model Holden VY SS Commodore is powered by the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine which is obviously not a Vortec engine, rather it runs the 99-00 Camaro engine except without the EGR valve. The belt squeaks in mine only when it has rained even if it is parked in the shed, moisture collects on the pulleys but I don't bother replacing the serpentine belt because it has only done about 64,000 kilometres (40,000 miles) but I will replace it at the recommended 100,000 kilometres (60,000 Miles). I replaced the starter motor solenoid on the then 5 year.old starter motor which is a Chinese unit because somehow the starter motor cable terminal came loose which galled up the thread on the solenoid. That was causing a slow cranking condition when the engine was hot, replacing the solenoid fixed the problem !
You've already charged the guy diagnostics- repair plus a starter. Have a little pride, tell the customer he needs a belt and an oil change....bet he would step up and have you do it. Just two more steps and deliver a vehicle at 100%. Other wise, good series.
all over a broken starter (the jeep that started me watching also hit that point)...yeesh. looks like the default for a used or older vehicle nowadays is going to be basically go over the entire electrical system and clean and tighten EVERYTHING first.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics either way, somebody ham handed a lot of that wiring harness, eh? kinda glad you actually show that you pop the pins and tighten things up. I bet I coulda rescued a few of my vehicles that way...
I would not let the 'other shop' wash the windshield let alone change the oil and serpentine belt. It's one thing to keep a car for 4 months (still pretty bad). But to return the car to the owner in that condition is quite another.
Shops that are this horrible should have their names mentioned cause i sure wouldn't bring my car to a place like that not even for oil change. But really it's a lot of shops that know nothing more then installing obvious broken parts. If it's not obvious of a issue most shops can not fix which is ridiculous. They all should learn to do testing and to know how to use a multimeter and oscope n so on. Great job Ivan!
Seems like a case of incompetence on the other shops part. And most definitely would not even trust them for an oil change much less to install a belt properly!
With that year of gm vehicle you could take the terminal part number and tray number off the connector end view document and get the terminals needed from a gm dealer. Im spoiled being at a gm dealer with access to the terminal repair kit of i think is 50 trays with 24 terminal types per tray. Ill just crimp new terminals onto the circuit and reassemble. GM has since gone away from this and now sell terminated leads which i dont like cause now the repair is a wire to wire splice, prefer to terminate new terminal right at end of circuit.
This is the exact reason why, when a customer denies the estimate/service call fees, I tell them not to call me back because the charge isn't going to be the same as what I quote them now. They, of course, get defensive and ask why. At that point I have to explain that, if they are still having the same problem, they are going to have to pay me extra to undo whatever the first idiot did so I can get back to the original problem. That is usually when they relent and understand that being cheap isn't the best option. And they usually realize this because they've gone through other people who have already screwed them over and this is the first time that someone has been honest with them about the repair and the costs involved. Never fails to amaze me how basic diagnostic skills are lost on over 99% of techs. They rely totally on a scan tool to "tell" them what is wrong and when the tool can't, they just walk away. Don't bother to try and learn anything....
I had a squeaky belt for some time on my jeep cherokee, replaced idler, still squeaked, took belt off and discovered alternator was was hard to turn almost ready to lock up even though it never made any noise, replaced alternator and it was quiet
The shop that had the truck four months KNEW the starter was disconnected and had a broken terminal and never told the owner when he picked up the truck? Nice. Quality Work.
the picture showwed it was snapped off
@@wagoosh78 Yes, and no doubt they (that shop) were the ones who snapped it off, as well as removed the bat. cable. Why they stopped at that point without removing the starter themselves (and installing a rebuilt/new one) is only known to them.
Ivan. Those "Mechanics" before you ARE NOT mechanics. They just have a label on their shirts. Once again, YOU ARE DA MAN. You are one of my heros. Thanks.
Imagine the customers reaction..
What?? It’s ready already?? How is this possible???
Good one Ivan.
Just a thought but,if all this just started from the other shop screwing around with the starter and breaking off the connector, leaving the main battery cable disconnected,I pretty much don't think I'd let them install a belt and oil change 🤔🤨. Just a thought 😅😂🎉
Ivan is patient, good natured and very smart. Much appreciated.
The starter connections finding, amazing. smh. After 4 months not difficult to understand the customer being surprised. As usual, nice work! Another one worth the tow to PHAD!
thanks for this video, especially showing how you extracted the pins and tightened the spring tension, would like to see how you extract and tighten other shapes of pins as well
Don’t go back to that “other shop” for a free anything, ever!
I agree, that other shop isn't qualified to change oil or anything else on a car. I wonder how much they charged the customer for butchering his car and telling lies!
@@JacksAutoDiagnosticsactually I don't think they charged anything for labor 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics They still cost the customer more money.
@@JacksAutoDiagnostics Absolutely...and 4 months of down time!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics they created more problems and charged them i bet
Thank you for posting Pt2. My 2 cents to understand what happened. There was a real pin problem, which you fixed. The oddly broken starter was most likely caused by a rookie employee who didn’t want to own his mistake.
I don't usually comment on videos, but your knowledge and patience need to be recognized. Good job!
As a past mechanic, being a beached whale, I think the first thing I would have done is check the starter, as a 78 yer old, working on the older vehicles, that is where I would always start. Not that you didn't do a good job, if we would have had scanners back in the sixties and seventies, I still would have checked the scanner first, no codes, go down to the starter. Great job on the process you did, you eliminated all possibilities first. Yay for Ivan. Love your videos, learned so much on these newer cars from watching you and Mr O}.
Another starter murder mystery solved! Nice job Ivan! This channel is far superior to all the streaming services combined!
Totally agree...
We are in a world that finding a trustworthy mechanic is rare. Finding a "Ian" i hope i spelled your name correctly is next to impossible, and when you do he is slammed with work so much.
Good thing you tested the new starter..because often NEW means "Never Ever Worked"
I really like watching you troubleshoot. I learn a lot just by watching you. As a 50 yr aircraft mechanic we troubleshoot a lot also but with 'old school" circuits on small aircraft. Nothing with computer circuits other than avionics.
As I'm "old school" I would have gone to the starter post first to see if power was even getting to the start solenoid and then worked backwards but I haven't used diagnostic tools other than basic blue tooth code readers
NICE JOB on bringing to life a dead whale that others couldn't fix AGAIN! 🙂
I should add that I've learned to check pin tensions in troubleshooting from watching you and it saved my bacon a couple of months ago on a small airplane problem! THANKS
All these commenter's saying the starter was the problem 😂great work Ivan 👊
Not to criticize the troubleshooting procedure, but if you had checked for power at the "S" terminal of the solenoid or put 12 volts to it and verified the starter even works, engine is not locked up, etc within the first hour of raising the hood. Everybody wants to "scan" for codes as the first step. Then start troubleshooting from the ign switch end down to the starter. Eventually you will figure it out from either end of the circuit though! Good job catching those loose connector pins is what separates the professional from the parts changer!
He’s got a bit of a history with that. Tries to do it all from inside the car and not under the hood. “We would have never fixed this car without the picoscope” is often heard. Does not do a thorough visual check of all wiring and hoses, which often means touching them. He’s a firm believer in not touching anything under the hood for fear of “fixing it accidentally”. I get where he’s coming from, but it’s a done a bit overboard most times.
A diagnostician is not a shade tree mechanic.
Ivan has a system. First you completely ignore the network was off line at the beginning; did you watch part 1? (IOW it never would have started without first bringing the networks online; so scanning was a necessity especially when you are dealing with a vehicle that has been hacked and probed before you got it. Further, there are often faster ways in some circumstances, but using his system he almost always finds problems within his first hour of diagnostics that eludes those that waste months trying to test specific circuits that, as in this case are only obvious after the fact.
@@GNX157these videos are not about how fast he can fix problems.
The no-crank was due to TWO separate problems: No-Comm with the TCM/ECM and the disconnected starter. Sure, you can diagnose these issues in any order. But quoting the customer for a new starter WITHOUT first repairing the network and verifying circuit integrity would be the WRONG approach ;)
God bless you Ivan. Those who come to you from near or far are so fortunate to have you there.
The wiring diagram and knowing how to read them is the best diagnostic tool you can find. Got to love the starter install , someone left you quite a mess! Probably time to check the grounds on that truck if the starter lost it’s ground.
Happy Sunday Ivan! Before Church, I always start our day with you. Love Learning on PHAD!!!!
Great diagnosis man. It wasn't as simple as just the starter being broken. All of the pin tension issues absolutely needed to be addressed. A lot of people would have found the starter problem, but those bad connections all over the place would have caused so many issues. Great work man!
Almost full tank of fuel 😂amazing this customer really wanted his truck to get fixed..great diag ivan cheers
Ivan, I think you are one of the few really great automotive diagnosticians out there. Always learn a lot watching you.
Your TH-cam training beats all the dealer training out there.
I've always wondered what "dealer training" consists of...how to read TSBs and Flow Charts? xD
Ivan, i find it hard to believe that the shop had it for 4 months and coudnt cure it and basically it was just a wire broken of the starter, and as you said it wasnt difficult to change, what a strange garage that must have been...F in Uk.
It really looks like they are the ones who broke the starter during the "4 month diagnostic process" 😂
If your a do it yourself mechanic and don't have the fine tip multimeter adaptors it's easy to make something up to do a job. Just go down to your local garage and ask them nicely for a couple of inches of different size mig welding wire. It's normally copper coated, and it's fairly stiff. I find the normal .8mm wire is perfect for most connectors, for really small connectors use the .6mm wire.
Harbor Freight sells that same back probe kit for $15
I absolutely love how you get stuff to work.
Thanks for the video. Small town shop close by me does good on the basics, but doesn't have the modern computer tools. I've asked. Good honest people, and know what they do. But wouldn't be able to do diagnostic like Ivan for sure.
I would refuse to work on anything some other shop had messed with....nothing but guaranteed aggravation and half truths....Ivan has the patience of a saint....great job
I am with your opinion on all these power probes and relay adaptors. Sure it may make it a little more convenient in some circumstances. I have been jumping relays and using headlight bulbs for loads with long heavy duty jumper wires a decade before all these cute tools came out. Like you say, if you know how a circuit works, you don't need this stuff. I would rather spend the money on a cam locking tool or a scope accessory. As always Ivan, great job.
Still awesome work/diagnostics Ivan. It's great to see old school bare bones diagnostics. 👏👏👏👏
20 to 25 years ago you would check the starting circuit for integrity. I did it that way.
Now with communication lines between modules, then the modules verifying all conditions are met and no codes to cause more problems, you then get a start signal. THEN you verify starter CIRCUIT integrity. This is the way it's done now as Ivan explained. It's not only the best way, it's also a CYA way. If it's your own vehicle, it's up to you!
Thank you for this video. Good job Ivan.
Good back to the basics video Ivan. We often get lost in the weeds with the technology. I appreciated your comment about doing diag with basic tools so that you understood what you were looking at. This is the issue with dealerships operating from a flow chart rather than thinking through an issue. Thank you!
The only way those pins could be loose is from the other shop putting a meter probe in it. Removing and replacing the connection shouldn’t have done it. As for the starter being broke, a visual inspection solved that problem. Can’t see it if you don’t look at it. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great job, Ivan! How could a no-crank vehicle be in a shop for four months and nobody even looked at the starter? Sure it had weird no-comm problems with TCM and ECM, but still...
I believe they broke the starter and then gave up. Starter studs don't just magically snap off ;)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics You may be right, which is even more negative.
Loved every minute of it Ivan. Fantastic diagnosis which wasn't hard; just had to follow the procedure. I don't understand how vehicles are at shops for months at a time. When I have a tough one, I can't sleep until I figure it out. I ran into the DLC pins issue on my brother's F350. He has one of those "go faster" plugins that stays in the DLC. Unfortunately, the plugin's male pins are thicker than what they should be and they opened up the terminals. My scanner wouldn't connect. Had to tighten the pins just like you did. Regardless, nice job as usual!
they should of brought it to you in the first place would have saved them alot of money and frustration and time i look foreward to ur videos every day i learn alot and how to apply my basics.
I use a good pair of pliers to tighten connector female halves. Key is to have a lot of control over the force you apply; you need to stop quickly when you feel movement.
I don't think we ever find out the original problem. Other shops and customers create other issues while fixing. At least it's back up and running.
Pin fitment on TCM module.
@mikeafa1 The other shop replaced the TCM after testing. They also replaced the ECM and r&r the entire engine harness after ohming it out. Pin fitment was a problem built in after the initial problem was addressed. So again, what was the initial concern?
@@TreyCook21 Maybe spread pins that occurred naturally that were made way worse after probing like a gorilla?
@@TreyCook21according to the symptoms the original problem was indeed terminal fretting loose pins at the TCM. Everything else like the snapped starter stud was collateral damage 😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Yes, the symptoms you encountered. What about 4 months ago? It doesn't really matter. Well done on getting the issue fixed.
The PRNDL range switch may have an issue with the D contacts if it drops the bar randomly.
Ivan, I wish I had your patience. I love your methodical approach which in this case is exactly what this truck needed. It's nice to know its back on the road again. Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
I believe it!!
Look who's Diagnosing the vehicle PHAD!
Another great job 👍
"The process is clear" ... only 'coz you know how to do it. - Great job..!!
Another great video back to basics and some understanding of pin tension wins. Was following and thinking the same way all this time watching your skills does sink in thanks Ivan.
If only all garages had people with your knowledge Eric !
Sorry I mean Ivan, but Eric is a very talented person also !
I can't believe how easy that starter was to change, compared to the one on my 04 F150. Two bolts straight up from the bottom. Darn Good engineering by GM.
Yes the top bolt on the Ford starter is no fun.
For a change!
Few things in this world are as satisfying as that first crank
I am speechless 😮. How in Dante's hell can one destroy something and realize what you have messed up. In the seventies in the Army I changed starters on ten ton trucks to quarter ton jeeps and made mistakes but do not not knowing when I busted something.
WOW again my friend just Awesome thanks great videos
Happy Sunday. Another happy GM off into the sunset. Kinda wonder if that Interstate was spanked causing some of the belt noise. Nice straight forward work Ivan . Have a great week. 👍👍🇺🇸
Just a worn belt slipping on the pulleys :)
@ 👍👍🇺🇸
Not the Other Shop again. I like how they destroy the starter and don't tell the owner or replace it.
Yeah that really blew my mind 😵💫
Got to love older GM trucks for starter replacement. Easy peasy. I do have a set of those relay testing adaptors, but they are not worth the effort to be honest. Now those test relays with the on/off switch on them are worth looking into IMO. They can help you determine if you're looking for a bad load or control side problem very quickly.
That is one you didn't need to think about, Ivan. GREAT VIDEO!
When I saw the disconnected starter, I began to wonder if someone was pranking you.
There are better ways to prank a Data driven Diagnose 😂
For once my wife would have been right… it won’t start, needs a starter!😅 She diagnosed a flat tire too 😂
Thanks for another good one👍🏼
Nice find, excellent Ivan
Once Ivan found the expanded pin sockets I was fearful that ALL of the pin sockets would be spread due to the Ohm check by the previous "technician".
"going back to basics"... epic!
Does anyone really believe that the entire wiring harness was removed and checked with an ohmmeter ? 😅
Nope
It wasn't 😂
That's about as likely as a dealer saying you need a whole new wiring loom and being honest.
A few wires were probably checked.
There's some dummies out there. Another channel he tore all the insulation off the main wiring harness looking for a bad wire.
One thing for sure, whoever was working on it does not understand basic electricity!
Amazing! You have the patience of Job. Fun to watch Great teacher
This might have been better as a one part video. It seems like a lot of people commenting forgot there was a part 1, where the loose terminal problems were found - now there's "all it needed was a visual inspection".
They must have short attention spans haha! :)
Good morning Mr Ivan. Hope you're having a great weekend 😅🎉. Great video 👍
wow--hard to believe that the other shops didn't discover the broken solenoid stud
Uhhh I think they are the ones who BROKE it LOL!!
Stay away from reman starters, they'll get you stuck. Always go new. Not breaking down is priceless. :D
When i diag a no crank condition, I typically start at the starter relay. Depending on what you find at the relay, it can point you towards the problem area.
Great approach! In this case you would have 2 problems at the relay: no control from the ECM and no continuity through the starter :)
For slipping belts - don't use WD40, use belt spray like the CRC Belt Grip Pro. It's of course a temporary fix for a slipping belt. WD40 will just make the belt slip more but you won't hear it.
Ivan, anybody who seeks you out for repairs knows how you operate. I would of had you do the oil change and belt without hesitation. I felt like this repair was under your pay grade. lol
Re the belt squeaks. Assuming the belt is actually good, try this. With the engine OFF, sprinkle “ Barkeep cleanser” or “Comet” on ribs of belt. Where the belt comes off the tensioner, or an idler, a vee is formed and a good place to put the cleanser…say a tablespoon full. Start the engine, cloud of dust, but noise will go away and stay gone. Petroleum products no good. Wd didn’t last, did it? Try the cleanser.
RIDICULOUS!!!!
The other shop removed the entire wiring harness because it needed a new starter?
Other way around... I think they snapped the rusty starter stud WHEN they removed the harness... For no reason 😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics that's still nuts.
Good to see you testing the new one b4 install. The last starter I put on was faulty from the factory.
New parts suck!
Would have been funny if the starter was missing and your checking away. LOL
My 2002 model Holden VY SS Commodore is powered by the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine which is obviously not a Vortec engine, rather it runs the 99-00 Camaro engine except without the EGR valve.
The belt squeaks in mine only when it has rained even if it is parked in the shed, moisture collects on the pulleys but I don't bother replacing the serpentine belt because it has only done about 64,000 kilometres (40,000 miles) but I will replace it at the recommended 100,000 kilometres (60,000 Miles).
I replaced the starter motor solenoid on the then 5 year.old starter motor which is a Chinese unit because somehow the starter motor cable terminal came loose which galled up the thread on the solenoid.
That was causing a slow cranking condition when the engine was hot, replacing the solenoid fixed the problem !
My tip, I use Armor All on squeaky belts. Usually stops the squeaks
Just replace the belt haha
They stopped because they didn't want to buy starter.
You break it, you buy it haha
I wouldn’t want the other shop to touch that car if they can’t figure out a bad starter!
I think they are the ones who broke it in the first place 🤣
@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I believe they did.
Thats how you get a customer for life!
Above and beyond. Great job.
I’d be recommending a full service after that - needs oil and coolant looked non existent
Way to go Ivan.
You've already charged the guy diagnostics- repair plus a starter. Have a little pride, tell the customer he needs a belt and an oil change....bet he would step up and have you do it. Just two more steps and deliver a vehicle at 100%. Other wise, good series.
Of course I offered to do the belt and oil change! Customer kindly declined :)
this one fell under the category of "if you hear hooves falling, thing horses and NOT zebras!"
thing ?
Well done Ivan !
all over a broken starter (the jeep that started me watching also hit that point)...yeesh. looks like the default for a used or older vehicle nowadays is going to be basically go over the entire electrical system and clean and tighten EVERYTHING first.
No, the main issue was no communication to the ECM and TCM. The broken/disconnected starter was just collateral damage from the last shop haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics either way, somebody ham handed a lot of that wiring harness, eh? kinda glad you actually show that you pop the pins and tighten things up. I bet I coulda rescued a few of my vehicles that way...
holding a bar of soap against a moving squeaky belt is a superior method than spraying it with WD40 IMO
@@VigilanceTech Pushing on a piece of soap against a turning belt ? Genius!
Seriously, best for all, that shop should close the doors an employees find another line of work
I would not let the 'other shop' wash the windshield let alone change the oil and serpentine belt. It's one thing to keep a car for 4 months (still pretty bad). But to return the car to the owner in that condition is quite another.
Another awesome job Ivan!!!! Thanks!
Shops that are this horrible should have their names mentioned cause i sure wouldn't bring my car to a place like that not even for oil change. But really it's a lot of shops that know nothing more then installing obvious broken parts. If it's not obvious of a issue most shops can not fix which is ridiculous. They all should learn to do testing and to know how to use a multimeter and oscope n so on. Great job Ivan!
Lesson learned: if it is a start up issue visually inspect or test the starter connections.
First disconnect the battery when appropriate.
@@igotstoknow2 that's not the lesson here really... It still wouldn't crank if you just replaced the starter haha
Seems like a case of incompetence on the other shops part. And most definitely would not even trust them for an oil change much less to install a belt properly!
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Spread pins on the wire connectors can cause real bad issues. You have to know the history from what other shops have done.
Hopefully the customer comes to you first next time. Would have had his truck back in a day or 2 instead of 4 months !!
With that year of gm vehicle you could take the terminal part number and tray number off the connector end view document and get the terminals needed from a gm dealer. Im spoiled being at a gm dealer with access to the terminal repair kit of i think is 50 trays with 24 terminal types per tray. Ill just crimp new terminals onto the circuit and reassemble. GM has since gone away from this and now sell terminated leads which i dont like cause now the repair is a wire to wire splice, prefer to terminate new terminal right at end of circuit.
How did a shop keep this vehicle for 4 months and not find the bad starter ?? Seriously stay away from that shop !
I think the other shop caused the broken starter by messing around with everything. The original problem seemed to be loose pins on the TCM connector.
They probably caused the broken starter trying to remove the corroded control wire to test it for some reason.
This is the exact reason why, when a customer denies the estimate/service call fees, I tell them not to call me back because the charge isn't going to be the same as what I quote them now. They, of course, get defensive and ask why. At that point I have to explain that, if they are still having the same problem, they are going to have to pay me extra to undo whatever the first idiot did so I can get back to the original problem.
That is usually when they relent and understand that being cheap isn't the best option. And they usually realize this because they've gone through other people who have already screwed them over and this is the first time that someone has been honest with them about the repair and the costs involved.
Never fails to amaze me how basic diagnostic skills are lost on over 99% of techs. They rely totally on a scan tool to "tell" them what is wrong and when the tool can't, they just walk away. Don't bother to try and learn anything....
Cheap labor ain’t skilled. Skilled labor ain’t cheap. I just hope Ivan charges plenty for knowing his stuff ‼️
I had the same with a discovery 2, with no r d or 123 showing was a crusty wire on a connector under the dash to instrument cluster
Very impressive sir.
Good job Ivan!!
I had a squeaky belt for some time on my jeep cherokee, replaced idler, still squeaked, took belt off and discovered alternator was was hard to turn almost ready to lock up even though it never made any noise, replaced alternator and it was quiet
The old testing caused more problems with widened pins, been there 😅
Good job Ivan I m new subscriber so thanks for explained and diagnosis appreciated..❤