hi auto autopsy! i need a bit of help.. so i am 17 and my dad has an old 2001 saab se 3.0 liter turbocharged and one day it just stopped working and every time we try to turn it over the ignition fuse blows, he gave me this car for my first car / project car and we have 4 ideas of what's wrong. one a ground wire for the windshield wipers needs to be removed, some resistor thing the radio is grounded to needs to be replaced or completely taken out, or its the passenger side heated seat. please if you find anything out on this it would be freaking amazing. ~ Vinny Stephens.
@@singulargames6984 Simple start - isolate circuits that you suspect by pulling their fuses. Pull everything (lights, seat heaters, horn, etc.) and if the problem disappears, add fuses back one at a time. When the problem re-occurs, you've found the offending circuit.
FYI, just had the subframe bushes replaced at ~ 167,000. Very nice improvement over speed bumps, also engine vibration through steering wheel significanlty reduced
Great vid. My mechanic while giving my 9-3 a NYS inspection said the air intake was stuffed with leaves. He cleaned it and it runs much better 👍. He wants to do a complete tune-up next at 48k miles. I’m thinking about it.
A couple of helpful hints for the future. Soak the bolts/nuts with penetrant for a couple of days prior to removing it. Anti-seize them as they go back on. Removing the exhaust manifold makes it much easier to get it out. I learned this as I did a TD04 swap.
Arizona man suffers from green overdose after seeing a couple of bushes by the highway! :) That "free" 9-5 is some piece of work! Good content, though, keep it coming!
@@AutoAutopsy Mike D advice, just replace the $85 sensor. But more than likely, your fuel pump is going. Put a pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the rail (and some sort of extension to see it, or use a camera in the engine bay and record it) see if it drops as you get into boost/throttle. if it does, you know where the issue lies.
@@AutoAutopsy Now that I've rewatched the video again, I see the fuel level sending unit going dead; that is the original pump I bet and at 150k miles its time, just not able to send enough fuel to keep up. Sucks on the 06+ cars, because they shifted it just enough you can't pull it through the rear seat access. And really, if you want to test it (besides a fuel pressure gauge), just pop the fuel lines off the fuel rail (cold car), and put a catch bucket/cup/container under it, key on to prime, it should be a lot of fuel flow, you can tell a good versus bad pump just from that usually.
Also, make sure nothing is blocking the exhaust, a cat or silencer collapsing is going to cause similar issues. If the engine cant get rid of it it will get red hot due to backpressure. And with insane backpressure it wont be able to force boost into the engine on the intake side Happened to one guy i know, rear silencer fell apart and blocked the exhaust. Similar symptoms to yours
I doubt that it is the fuel pump, when I had a broken pump on my 9-5 the symptoms were very different (no throttle response/lack of power). I would rather have a look at the fuel pressure regulator ($30 part) or check the injectors P.S. The fuel filter on these model years (06-09 ,US only) can't be replaced individually since they're part of the fuel pump assembly and not on the fuel line as in older model years
this is a fuel issue, nothing else. most likely the fuel pump. check the pressure on fuel rail. should be at 2.6 bar on idle, 3+ on boost. or borrow a WBL from your buddy and screw it in the second lambda location
@@AutoAutopsy fuel pressure regulator? nothing to do with that. check FUEL PRESSURE, there's a valve on the fuel rail. keep the car running an check the pressure. or like I said, use a Wideband lambda and check the lambda/afr while stomping on the gas.
Interesting issue. Not fun. Might want to flash the ECU back to OEM and see how she does. Lean mix almost certain, since you have already tested with decreasing exhaust pressure. The white coking on the exhaust side also is an indicator of a lack of carbon residue caused by too little fuel in the mix or timing retarded too much which would only happen with a crap tune.
@@AutoAutopsy Have both 02's been replaced with OEM(bosch most likely) and MAF sensor cleaned? If there is a shop that can hook up to your car and check for proper air-fuel ratio, that will help isolate it. The MAF sensor could be dirty and sensing less than the total volume of air. The O2 Sensors can fail and throw off the mix alot, like my 06 2.0 which was fouling and throwing Cat errors until I swapped out both 02's. The O2 graphs looked great for both as far as proper activity, but apparently their sensitivity was amplified or diminished? Great ever since.
Have you replaced the fuel pump? It is about the only thing you can't test for with tech2 or an obd scanner. Either that or the next Cat down the line is also blocked from the crap that came off the first one. I'm assuming you obviously replaced the fuel filter and all that
If it is running lean, I’m surprised that none o you thought of changing the fuel filter first. The turbo glowing red is because the engine is running lean. Th O2 sensor is not going to give an accurate reading in this case especially with any turbo charged car, as the turbo is essentially a catalytic converter in its self before the real catalytic converter. I went to UTI there in Phoenix, and also worked for Camelback Volkswagen,Saab, Subaru as well and this problem would come in a lot and we would change the fuel filter and problem would be solved. So if the fuel trim is saying or running lean change the fuel filter and if running to rich change the air filter
Said it before and I'll say it again .. lean mix :P You said in previous comment you checked adaptions with tech2, but it can adapt falsely and give you skewed mixture. I'd still say either MAF, O2 sensor or fuelling issues in the form of low pressure/flow. BTW, there's a drain valve on the radiator on the lower right hand side when looking at the car from the front which allows you to drain coolant controlled if you attach a hose to the nipple and open it
bruh, why would i spend all day changing a turbo for "views"? If I knew the issue, the car would already be fixed. FPR was tested the other day and all seems fine, thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to look into the other stuff!!
@@jurpo6 only if he had a check engine light (indicating that the ecu has detected a problem and gone into open loop). In this case it doesn't find the problem itself
My OG 93 vert was doing that. New bpc, changed the air box (felt like mine had a sock in it) new bypass valve and new vacuum lines and now it finally gets to the redline on the boost gauge with great acceleration. But, occasionally when I come to a stop at an intersection it has practically not boost at all. If I stop and restart it comes back. Thinking the waste gate is sticking?????
@@AutoAutopsy me either. I've had a couple of Mercedes turbo diesels, a 300D Turbo and a 300 SD, but this is my first gasoline turbo so I'm learning as I go. The Mercs never had any turbo issues. I sold the 300D turbo with about 250,000 miles and the 300 SD had over 325,000 miles on it before it finally gave up.
@@AutoAutopsy Yes, an air bubble in the lines that is preventing the coolant from flowing. I can only think that there is some kind of blockage that prevents the coolant from flowing to the turbo if it keeps over heating.
Судя по белому налета на выхлопной части турбины масло двигатель жрет хорошо, а вы взялись за замены турбины! Двигатель вскрывайте и смотрите почему такое происходит.
i think that this car gonna ruin your wallet! yours saab 93 arc and 93 turbo x are perfect !!! this 95 is a totall disaster !! i dont know why but i want to see all the cost
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
More work coming on the car this weekend to try to fix this stupid problem!
hi auto autopsy! i need a bit of help.. so i am 17 and my dad has an old 2001 saab se 3.0 liter turbocharged and one day it just stopped working and every time we try to turn it over the ignition fuse blows, he gave me this car for my first car / project car and we have 4 ideas of what's wrong. one a ground wire for the windshield wipers needs to be removed, some resistor thing the radio is grounded to needs to be replaced or completely taken out, or its the passenger side heated seat. please if you find anything out on this it would be freaking amazing. ~ Vinny Stephens.
@@singulargames6984 Simple start - isolate circuits that you suspect by pulling their fuses. Pull everything (lights, seat heaters, horn, etc.) and if the problem disappears, add fuses back one at a time. When the problem re-occurs, you've found the offending circuit.
FYI, just had the subframe bushes replaced at ~ 167,000. Very nice improvement over speed bumps, also engine vibration through steering wheel significanlty reduced
Yeah it needs those bushings for sure. Not a priority at the moment tho if I’m being honest haha
Great vid. My mechanic while giving my 9-3 a NYS inspection said the air intake was stuffed with leaves. He cleaned it and it runs much better 👍. He wants to do a complete tune-up next at 48k miles. I’m thinking about it.
nice! 48k is pretty low
Who’s your mechanic? I’ve been looking for a good mechanic in NY who can work on my 01 9-5
Love the exhaust crackle on the OG9-3!! XD XD XD
Haha it’s great
A couple of helpful hints for the future. Soak the bolts/nuts with penetrant for a couple of days prior to removing it. Anti-seize them as they go back on. Removing the exhaust manifold makes it much easier to get it out. I learned this as I did a TD04 swap.
yep, i always use that stuff! works wonders
Arizona man suffers from green overdose after seeing a couple of bushes by the highway! :)
That "free" 9-5 is some piece of work! Good content, though, keep it coming!
lmao, we arent used to it! thank you
Check the FPR and vacuum line to the FPR. If not that, your fuel pump is not getting enough fuel in or the MAF is shot.
Yeah! Checked MAF as well and all seems good there. We tested the FPR a couple of days ago and that also seems fine 🤦🏻♂️ ugh!
@@AutoAutopsy Mike D advice, just replace the $85 sensor. But more than likely, your fuel pump is going. Put a pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the rail (and some sort of extension to see it, or use a camera in the engine bay and record it) see if it drops as you get into boost/throttle. if it does, you know where the issue lies.
@@AutoAutopsy Now that I've rewatched the video again, I see the fuel level sending unit going dead; that is the original pump I bet and at 150k miles its time, just not able to send enough fuel to keep up. Sucks on the 06+ cars, because they shifted it just enough you can't pull it through the rear seat access. And really, if you want to test it (besides a fuel pressure gauge), just pop the fuel lines off the fuel rail (cold car), and put a catch bucket/cup/container under it, key on to prime, it should be a lot of fuel flow, you can tell a good versus bad pump just from that usually.
@@davevq I have a spare dame pump we can throw in if thats the case
Your catalysator might be clogged or silencers causing excessive pressure and that can cause turbo to get glowing hot.
He gutted the catalytic converter
^
I was using this video as a how to because I just bought a 2002 with 65000 miles and it has a blown turbo
Nice!
10:00 Ah yes, ye 'ole Saab fuel gauge!
🤫
Things to check:
-opensid for knocks under boost just to confirm it's lean
-fuel injectors,
-fuel filter,
-fuel pump.
most likely the fuel pump
thanks for the tip
Also, make sure nothing is blocking the exhaust, a cat or silencer collapsing is going to cause similar issues.
If the engine cant get rid of it it will get red hot due to backpressure. And with insane backpressure it wont be able to force boost into the engine on the intake side
Happened to one guy i know, rear silencer fell apart and blocked the exhaust. Similar symptoms to yours
I doubt that it is the fuel pump, when I had a broken pump on my 9-5 the symptoms were very different (no throttle response/lack of power).
I would rather have a look at the fuel pressure regulator ($30 part) or check the injectors
P.S. The fuel filter on these model years (06-09 ,US only) can't be replaced individually since they're part of the fuel pump assembly and not on the fuel line as in older model years
Great vid as usual - real world informative
thanks!
this is a fuel issue, nothing else. most likely the fuel pump. check the pressure on fuel rail. should be at 2.6 bar on idle, 3+ on boost. or borrow a WBL from your buddy and screw it in the second lambda location
FPR seems 100% fine. i tested it a couple days ago :(
@@AutoAutopsy fuel pressure regulator? nothing to do with that. check FUEL PRESSURE, there's a valve on the fuel rail. keep the car running an check the pressure. or like I said, use a Wideband lambda and check the lambda/afr while stomping on the gas.
Interesting issue. Not fun. Might want to flash the ECU back to OEM and see how she does.
Lean mix almost certain, since you have already tested with decreasing exhaust pressure. The white coking on the exhaust side also is an indicator of a lack of carbon residue caused by too little fuel in the mix or timing retarded too much which would only happen with a crap tune.
It’s already on a stock tune :/ i thought the same but we tested the FPR and all seemed fine 🤔
@@AutoAutopsy Have both 02's been replaced with OEM(bosch most likely) and MAF sensor cleaned?
If there is a shop that can hook up to your car and check for proper air-fuel ratio, that will help isolate it. The MAF sensor could be dirty and sensing less than the total volume of air. The O2 Sensors can fail and throw off the mix alot, like my 06 2.0 which was fouling and throwing Cat errors until I swapped out both 02's. The O2 graphs looked great for both as far as proper activity, but apparently their sensitivity was amplified or diminished? Great ever since.
Have you replaced the fuel pump? It is about the only thing you can't test for with tech2 or an obd scanner. Either that or the next Cat down the line is also blocked from the crap that came off the first one. I'm assuming you obviously replaced the fuel filter and all that
i have not done anything fuel related outside of testing the FPR; thanks for the advice
If it is running lean, I’m surprised that none o you thought of changing the fuel filter first. The turbo glowing red is because the engine is running lean. Th O2 sensor is not going to give an accurate reading in this case especially with any turbo charged car, as the turbo is essentially a catalytic converter in its self before the real catalytic converter. I went to UTI there in Phoenix, and also worked for Camelback Volkswagen,Saab, Subaru as well and this problem would come in a lot and we would change the fuel filter and problem would be solved. So if the fuel trim is saying or running lean change the fuel filter and if running to rich change the air filter
thanks for the tip! Fuel trims are all normal however
Need video of that blue 9-5 ASAP 👍
i'll be filming it this weekend!
good luck
thanks haha
Said it before and I'll say it again .. lean mix :P You said in previous comment you checked adaptions with tech2, but it can adapt falsely and give you skewed mixture. I'd still say either MAF, O2 sensor or fuelling issues in the form of low pressure/flow.
BTW, there's a drain valve on the radiator on the lower right hand side when looking at the car from the front which allows you to drain coolant controlled if you attach a hose to the nipple and open it
@@thonyonetwo he's firing the parts cannon 😁😁 If you can't find the issue, throw parts on it until it fixes itself 😂
bruh, why would i spend all day changing a turbo for "views"? If I knew the issue, the car would already be fixed. FPR was tested the other day and all seems fine, thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to look into the other stuff!!
If the maf or O2 sensor are bad usually a car will go into open loop mode and run super rich as a safety measure.
@@jurpo6 only if he had a check engine light (indicating that the ecu has detected a problem and gone into open loop). In this case it doesn't find the problem itself
Hope you get this solved soon.Let me know how you get on.
will do!
I like the scruffy racoon look...........................
I wish it was this easy on the 9-3. The turbo is so hard to take out! Good video bro.
It wasn’t too fun on this either! Lol. Thank you!
Exactly What i want to do with my Saab
Deal with issues that seem unsolvable no matter what you do? 😬😂
@@AutoAutopsy yeah kind of
I have the same car and it does 210 mph and gets 67 mpg but you have to drop it from a high altitude.
😛😛😅😅
lmfao
Ignition timing is off . Replace the ECU And possibly the Di cassette.
Hey man are you coming to convention in Carlisle Pennsylvania we’re going tomorrow Sunday
no; i will be at SOC in sturgis
Hey! Just curious, is the car itself running hot (cooling system), even a little bit?
nah the temp gauge always stays in the middle; has a brand new thermostat too
My OG 93 vert was doing that. New bpc, changed the air box (felt like mine had a sock in it) new bypass valve and new vacuum lines and now it finally gets to the redline on the boost gauge with great acceleration. But, occasionally when I come to a stop at an intersection it has practically not boost at all. If I stop and restart it comes back.
Thinking the waste gate is sticking?????
interesting!im not sure
@@AutoAutopsy me either. I've had a couple of Mercedes turbo diesels, a 300D Turbo and a 300 SD, but this is my first gasoline turbo so I'm learning as I go. The Mercs never had any turbo issues. I sold the 300D turbo with about 250,000 miles and the 300 SD had over 325,000 miles on it before it finally gave up.
I'm very jealous
i wouldnt be! lol
The mix is to lean or delayed ignitions maybe?
im not sure haha
Are you sure you don't have an air lock in the hoses going to and from the turbo to the cooling system??
air lock?
@@AutoAutopsy Yes, an air bubble in the lines that is preventing the coolant from flowing. I can only think that there is some kind of blockage that prevents the coolant from flowing to the turbo if it keeps over heating.
Check fuel pressure.
done! seems fine
😂that raccoon look👍🏻😎
oops
Судя по белому налета на выхлопной части турбины масло двигатель жрет хорошо, а вы взялись за замены турбины! Двигатель вскрывайте и смотрите почему такое происходит.
i think that this car gonna ruin your wallet! yours saab 93 arc and 93 turbo x are perfect !!! this 95 is a totall disaster !! i dont know why but i want to see all the cost
i'm over 2k into it and it was free
Let me buy you a table or workbench to work on
😂