Repair of Separated Ribs

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[@paulromsky9527]

Nice video. I would put 3 inch wide blue masking tape on the top and bottom edges of the rib before appling glue and have damp cotton towels ready at the waiting. This way, the glue will drip onto the tape and not on exposed soundboard - giving you time to wipe up the dripping/squeezed-out glue before it gets onto the exposed parts of the soundboard. Also, paper towel is not that very absorbent and it leaves shreads of paper behind. A good quality dampened cotton towel is more absorbent. It may leave a thread behind now and then, but they can be picked up easily. Always wipe away glue with a fresh part of the towel. Then toss it in a bucket of water when done so you can wash it later for reuse.

[@hugono3938]

Show the aftermath when it’s done!

[@saveriosalerno9232]

Thanks Brigham!!

[@komoru]

Now THAT is one gnarly soundboard. I''m wondering how much this repair will cost the customer?

[@michelprimeau4531]

Why not glueing or repair the soundboard first and then glue the ribs to the soundboard?

[@billtheboatman]

Standing by for the video about the Mason & Hamlin in the background.

[@paulromsky9527]

You need to fill the gaps in the soundboard. Sometimes it is best to do that before gluing the soundbard to the ribs (which creats the proper slight crown in the soundboard), sometimes it is better to fill the gaps after re-gluing the ribs. In either case.... DON'T use wood filler. You need thin stips of soft wood trimed to fit snugly in the gaps, then glued into place, then plane and sand flush on both sides of the soundboard, and touch up with finish.

[@edluna5224]

To anyone seriously considering soundboard repair... never put a screw through the soundboard into a rib. If you feel as if you must make the soundboard to rib connection super strong, use a dowel, with ample glue (preferably hide glue) and clamp the soundboard and rib together. Screws should not be used.

[@paulromsky9527]

I agree, don't screw a soundboard to a rib, the soundboard is just too soft and you will end up pulling the screw through the soundboard more than holding the soundboard and rib together. A glued in dowell is a good idea, but rig up bracing bars (in a small closet is good for that as it has walls that are close together to keep the bracing bars short) to hold the soundboard to the rib while the clue cures (24 hours). In some cases you can drill small holes on either side of the rib through the soundboard so you can use scrap wood to make a temporary screw/clamp to hold the rib to the soundboard for curing, then remove the screw/clamp and fill the holes with plugs and sand smooth and add touch up finish. I think it is aways best to remove the strings and plate to get unobstructed access to the soundboard front surface.