I really enjoy your videos, but I have one video production tip for you. I know people want to have 'professional' looking videos and like to add music beds. However, when you are giving instruction (which requires more attention from the viewer), the sound bed becomes a distraction and takes away from the effectiveness of the video. This is especially true when you use short, repetitive loops for the video. A sound bed is great when there isn't voice over, but when it is completing for attention while you are speaking, it's not ideal. I mean for my comment to be helpful, not critical. I appreciate the time you've spent providing this valuable information.
Great Tips I am going to be doing the brake system on my new to me 1993 GL1500 SE and this information is perfect to know. This scooter is so different from my '81 GL1100 to me is feels like a completely different ride experience. I find myself "learning" to ride all over again. Thank you for these tips and tutorials without them I would have to find out the "hard" way.
That's fantastic! Re-watching this video I wish I could go back and do it again, I could say some things more succinctly and clarify some parts, but I suppose it's good for what it is. Thanks for writing!
Really cool, that you used measurements+ math to describe every step of the functional parts. Gave a Woow reaction, when the conclusion reached 1 Ton. Didnt know the preasure was that enourmos. Cool, educational video! 😊
This video has a lot of correct information. However, there is one tiny detail that is not quite correct, but a common misunderstanding. It's mainly not the rotor runout that will return the pads on a diskbrake. But the seal ring for the piston in the caliper will twist a little when you apply pressure. Both because of the motion of the piston, and because of the pressure from the fluid. When you release the pressure on the fluid, the seal will retain it's original shape, and retract the piston just enough to release the pressure from the pads on the rotor. The piston will not move a long way back. Maybe less than a millimeter. But this clearance is important for the pad to be completely free from the rotor. This makes it very important that the piston can move freely in the cylinder, and the seal is the only thing that makes the piston stick. If there is rust and dirt inside, the flexing of the rubber seal may not be enough for the piston to return properly. Then the brakes will not release, and may be damaged from excessive heat.
To release the air out i use à tiewrap for application wait a little and gently tap on brake lines to shake the stuck Buble to encourage to groupe Make larger bubble that will go up easy then leave it over nite and repeate in morning if you remove thé cover sumtime you se micro bubble Come up just like foam its not mutch air but enough to cause trouble.
Typically you can't. On acrylic you can polish it out, as it's fairly hard. But polycarbonate (Lexan) is relatively soft and scratches easily. For this reason, a hard coating is applied over the top surface during manufacture. Abrasive polishing would remove that hard coating and leave a soft, easily-scratched surface exposed.
The problem is that the air bubbles are too large to migrate past various orifices. By putting the system under high hydraulic pressure overnight, the air bubbles are compressed to a tiny fraction of their original size, and then easily migrate up to the master cylinder reservoir.
I eliminated the linked brakes in my 84 GL1200 but now for the life of me I cannot make front brakes work!! I even installed the 17mm master cylinder. Any trick to that?
What is the process for getting the air out of the line for the rear brake that activates the front left and rear; and what to use to keep the peddle pressed down?
First, the normal bleed process is used (bleed the front first, then the rear). I then just lean something heavy over and using a piece of wood, make it press down on the brake pedal, and leave it sitting like that for the night. The last time I did it, I put the end of my heavy trolley jack balanced on a piece of wood, with a trash can balanced on top of the jack. It probably put 60-70 lbs of pressure on the brake pedal. The only thing I did do differently for the rear is to bleed the brakes one last time after it sits overnight, as it has lots of up and down parts in the brake system to trap air bubbles, unlike the front brake which is basically vertical.
@@gabrielstaniecki Definitely not - brake fluid is hydroscopic, and will absorb moisture from the air. Don't leave the reservoirs open for any longer than it takes to fill them.
I really enjoy your videos, but I have one video production tip for you. I know people want to have 'professional' looking videos and like to add music beds. However, when you are giving instruction (which requires more attention from the viewer), the sound bed becomes a distraction and takes away from the effectiveness of the video. This is especially true when you use short, repetitive loops for the video. A sound bed is great when there isn't voice over, but when it is completing for attention while you are speaking, it's not ideal. I mean for my comment to be helpful, not critical. I appreciate the time you've spent providing this valuable information.
That was probably THE best demonstration of how a brake system works. Simple explanation of the principle backed up with a simple visual. Outstanding!
Thank you!
Great Tips I am going to be doing the brake system on my new to me 1993 GL1500 SE and this information is perfect to know. This scooter is so different from my '81 GL1100 to me is feels like a completely different ride experience. I find myself "learning" to ride all over again. Thank you for these tips and tutorials without them I would have to find out the "hard" way.
Love this video. I'm a science teacher. I use this video in my science unit about hydraulics.
That's fantastic! Re-watching this video I wish I could go back and do it again, I could say some things more succinctly and clarify some parts, but I suppose it's good for what it is. Thanks for writing!
Really cool, that you used measurements+ math to describe every step of the functional parts. Gave a Woow reaction, when the conclusion reached 1 Ton. Didnt know the preasure was that enourmos. Cool, educational video! 😊
This video has a lot of correct information. However, there is one tiny detail that is not quite correct, but a common misunderstanding. It's mainly not the rotor runout that will return the pads on a diskbrake.
But the seal ring for the piston in the caliper will twist a little when you apply pressure. Both because of the motion of the piston, and because of the pressure from the fluid. When you release the pressure on the fluid, the seal will retain it's original shape, and retract the piston just enough to release the pressure from the pads on the rotor. The piston will not move a long way back. Maybe less than a millimeter. But this clearance is important for the pad to be completely free from the rotor.
This makes it very important that the piston can move freely in the cylinder, and the seal is the only thing that makes the piston stick. If there is rust and dirt inside, the flexing of the rubber seal may not be enough for the piston to return properly. Then the brakes will not release, and may be damaged from excessive heat.
To release the air out i use à tiewrap for application wait a little and gently tap on brake lines to shake the stuck Buble to encourage to groupe Make larger bubble that will go up easy then leave it over nite and repeate in morning if you remove thé cover sumtime you se micro bubble Come up just like foam its not mutch air but enough to cause trouble.
I would like to see a video on how to make the lexan windshield clear again like it is when it's new.
Typically you can't. On acrylic you can polish it out, as it's fairly hard. But polycarbonate (Lexan) is relatively soft and scratches easily. For this reason, a hard coating is applied over the top surface during manufacture. Abrasive polishing would remove that hard coating and leave a soft, easily-scratched surface exposed.
It seems that with the bungee cord you compressed the air but did not remove the air.
The problem is that the air bubbles are too large to migrate past various orifices. By putting the system under high hydraulic pressure overnight, the air bubbles are compressed to a tiny fraction of their original size, and then easily migrate up to the master cylinder reservoir.
Thier is a square cut seal inside calipers round up edge holding break pads pressure until releasing
Thank you so much!
The foot pedal works the front wheel brake on my gold wing 1989 worked one of the slave cylinder
On the GL1500, the front brake lever operates the front right caliper. The foot pedal operates the front left caliper and the rear caliper.
Excellent!
I eliminated the linked brakes in my 84 GL1200 but now for the life of me I cannot make front brakes work!! I even installed the 17mm master cylinder. Any trick to that?
Merci, très bonne explication
Great education, love your videos, but please cut out the music - it gets too much soon. Otherwise, keep this up - it's great stuff.
Agree
Brilliant...thank you.
Is there an easy way to blead the back breaks?
sorry😒. just found the answer down below.
What is the process for getting the air out of the line for the rear brake that activates the front left and rear; and what to use to keep the peddle pressed down?
First, the normal bleed process is used (bleed the front first, then the rear). I then just lean something heavy over and using a piece of wood, make it press down on the brake pedal, and leave it sitting like that for the night. The last time I did it, I put the end of my heavy trolley jack balanced on a piece of wood, with a trash can balanced on top of the jack. It probably put 60-70 lbs of pressure on the brake pedal.
The only thing I did do differently for the rear is to bleed the brakes one last time after it sits overnight, as it has lots of up and down parts in the brake system to trap air bubbles, unlike the front brake which is basically vertical.
@@GoldwingDocs Do you have a vid on GWdocs demonstrating on how to bleed the rear brakes properly?
@@GoldwingDocs should the reservoirs be opened during the night while levers or pedal are pressed?
@@gabrielstaniecki Definitely not - brake fluid is hydroscopic, and will absorb moisture from the air. Don't leave the reservoirs open for any longer than it takes to fill them.
@@GoldwingDocs thanks a lot . I am asking because many times we can hear advice to leave bleeding valve open the same way for the night.
👀👂💭 👍
Please please please stop the music! It's not even music, just a monotonous repetitive tuneless dirge. Stop the music or my subscription! Thanks