So, I have spent several months this Summer removing 20 year old OSB that rotted behind vinyl siding. I have gone around the entire first floor of a two story house. There was inexpensive house wrap that was similar in construction to a plastic tarp (woven, then covered with very thin plastic). The weave deteriorated and let water through it. Wind drives water behind siding, past J-channels, etc. Water splashing in the dirt splashes up onto the foundation, and up behind the siding. The OSB disintegrated in two places: around windows, especially below the bottom corners where the water ran down along the sides of the windows and blew behind the J-channel, and at the bottom of every wall, due to water splashing upwards onto the unprotected OSB edge. I put on all new OSB and covered it with Tyvek, which is much stronger and not likely to fray and let water through, compared to cheaper woven house wrap. I put 4" Dupont Butyl tape around all 4 sides of the windows. Also, I believe the first part of the video showing the bead of caulk blocking water from coming in the bottom to be a good solution. If you let the Tyvek just hang down, the wind blowing and water splashing upwards will soak the OSB edge, and carry it upwards, causing the rot to move higher and higher over time (which happened on my house over 20 years). I hope this helps someone else NOT have to redo entire walls, due to water damage.
we have had nothing but failure from Nova wrap. The windows have been properly flashed and all drip caps have end dams etc. Any significant rain will push through the wrap, soaking the sheathing. Once the sheathing is wet it actually increases the flow. It sucks the water through because there is now no surface tension. I tarped walls that were in danger of exposure to a driving rain this weekend and attached the top behind the fascia, keeping the hoarding away from the wall. I used some wrap in once spot and during the rain inspected it. there were no nails in the wrap except on where it was attached on the sides to some 2x material with another 2x on top to prevent blow off. The wrap in the middle of the field was wet through. pulled off a brand new roll. this stuff may as well be toilet paper...total failure. While I'm at it, the deltawrap foundation membrane allows the backfill very good grip to drag it down as it settles. This can tear the membrane where the fasteners are. both systems are failures in my opinion.
@Kevin McGuire Newbie here. Why is that dumb? Not adhesive enough? I need to wrap my house (84 years old, vinyl siding) and the foundation/sill plate interface is a big concern of mine. What is the best way to handle house wrap below the sill plate?
@@just1mace Newbie here. Why is that dumb? Not adhesive enough? I need to wrap my house (84 years old, vinyl siding) and the foundation/sill plate interface is a big concern of mine. What is the best way to handle house wrap below the sill plate?
I’m late to the conversation but I figured I’d give some info on the research I’ve found. I’m currently re sheathing and installing hardie plank in my home. Per Tyvek instructions on installing home wrap there’s 3 methods. 1. Flash tape the sheathing foundation seam. Install home wrap. Tyvek tape bottom of house wrap to flashing tape. 2. Install home wrap and overhang over the foundation. Flash tape home wrap to foundation. 3. Install homewrap and overhang foundation. Apply bead of caulk behind home wrap to foundation. Me personally I prefer to have a shingle plane in case of water intrusion behind siding. I’m going to install flashing tape at seam, then home wrap and then bead of caulk behind bottom of house wrap. I think this is the best method. The flashing tape will protect the bottom of sheathing in case of water intrusion from beneath. And the caulk will prevent the intrusion in the first place. The home wrap will have one solid plane for water to flow down. Best advice I’ve heard is think like a rain drop. Sorry for the long comment. Figured I’d give my 2 cents
I think I have a problem. My house was built as follows: framing, insulation, house wrap , sheathing (particle board) then siding. Is this a major problem?
Built in Michigan(kalamazoo)...1994...It was built as follows: framing , insulation between studs, then foam board tacked up and over that house wrap. We were unhappy with it because it was noisy when windy and could hear too much of what was going on outside. So after a severe hail storm , when we had to have the siding and roof replaced we asked the contractor to add OSB to the sides of the house. But after looking at this video I got to thinking..should they have removed the original house wrap (which they didn't) then added the OSB and then put the new wrap over the OSB (which they left bare) before adding the new siding....Sorry I don't have a picture.
@@peaceoutpeaceout4267 Technically water from rain shouldn't be able to get behind siding at all. But they say that vinyl siding sweats, and that's what gets behind and rots the wood. I'm not for sure if other types of siding, Hardy board or the like sweats or not to be honest.
So, I have spent several months this Summer removing 20 year old OSB that rotted behind vinyl siding. I have gone around the entire first floor of a two story house. There was inexpensive house wrap that was similar in construction to a plastic tarp (woven, then covered with very thin plastic). The weave deteriorated and let water through it. Wind drives water behind siding, past J-channels, etc. Water splashing in the dirt splashes up onto the foundation, and up behind the siding. The OSB disintegrated in two places: around windows, especially below the bottom corners where the water ran down along the sides of the windows and blew behind the J-channel, and at the bottom of every wall, due to water splashing upwards onto the unprotected OSB edge. I put on all new OSB and covered it with Tyvek, which is much stronger and not likely to fray and let water through, compared to cheaper woven house wrap. I put 4" Dupont Butyl tape around all 4 sides of the windows. Also, I believe the first part of the video showing the bead of caulk blocking water from coming in the bottom to be a good solution. If you let the Tyvek just hang down, the wind blowing and water splashing upwards will soak the OSB edge, and carry it upwards, causing the rot to move higher and higher over time (which happened on my house over 20 years). I hope this helps someone else NOT have to redo entire walls, due to water damage.
we have had nothing but failure from Nova wrap. The windows have been properly flashed and all drip caps have end dams etc. Any significant rain will push through the wrap, soaking the sheathing. Once the sheathing is wet it actually increases the flow. It sucks the water through because there is now no surface tension. I tarped walls that were in danger of exposure to a driving rain this weekend and attached the top behind the fascia, keeping the hoarding away from the wall. I used some wrap in once spot and during the rain inspected it. there were no nails in the wrap except on where it was attached on the sides to some 2x material with another 2x on top to prevent blow off. The wrap in the middle of the field was wet through. pulled off a brand new roll. this stuff may as well be toilet paper...total failure.
While I'm at it, the deltawrap foundation membrane allows the backfill very good grip to drag it down as it settles. This can tear the membrane where the fasteners are. both systems are failures in my opinion.
is typar wrap good? or even ZIP
pretty detailed, thanks
Well done video. Thx
Why use cap staples when you can just install the 1x4s to hold the housewrap down?
Peel and stick Delta Vent eliminates staples and caps, making install much faster, and no penetrations. Others make similar stick on wraps.
the only way to go
It costs 3x the price tyvek but it seems like it would take less time
Do plastic cap staples get in the way of siding (eg. AZEK), making it wavy?
yes, the batten rainscreen is the best way being sure to only staple under the batten.....but rain will be driven through the wrap
it's always sunny in philadelphia
Silicone caulk or a different type of sealant to adhere the wrap to the concrete foundation?
Yes, silicone for masonry.
“To bridge the gaps between the wood and concrete...” silicone caulk here, is this really a good idea?
Kevin McGuire that’s the dumbest idea I’ve ever heard.
@Kevin McGuire Newbie here. Why is that dumb? Not adhesive enough? I need to wrap my house (84 years old, vinyl siding) and the foundation/sill plate interface is a big concern of mine. What is the best way to handle house wrap below the sill plate?
@@just1mace Newbie here. Why is that dumb? Not adhesive enough? I need to wrap my house (84 years old, vinyl siding) and the foundation/sill plate interface is a big concern of mine. What is the best way to handle house wrap below the sill plate?
I’m late to the conversation but I figured I’d give some info on the research I’ve found. I’m currently re sheathing and installing hardie plank in my home. Per Tyvek instructions on installing home wrap there’s 3 methods. 1. Flash tape the sheathing foundation seam. Install home wrap. Tyvek tape bottom of house wrap to flashing tape. 2. Install home wrap and overhang over the foundation. Flash tape home wrap to foundation. 3. Install homewrap and overhang foundation. Apply bead of caulk behind home wrap to foundation. Me personally I prefer to have a shingle plane in case of water intrusion behind siding. I’m going to install flashing tape at seam, then home wrap and then bead of caulk behind bottom of house wrap. I think this is the best method. The flashing tape will protect the bottom of sheathing in case of water intrusion from beneath. And the caulk will prevent the intrusion in the first place. The home wrap will have one solid plane for water to flow down. Best advice I’ve heard is think like a rain drop. Sorry for the long comment. Figured I’d give my 2 cents
I think I have a problem. My house was built as follows: framing, insulation, house wrap , sheathing (particle board) then siding. Is this a major problem?
Built in Michigan(kalamazoo)...1994...It was built as follows: framing , insulation between studs, then foam board tacked up and over that house wrap. We were unhappy with it because it was noisy when windy and could hear too much of what was going on outside. So after a severe hail storm , when we had to have the siding and roof replaced we asked the contractor to add OSB to the sides of the house. But after looking at this video I got to thinking..should they have removed the original house wrap (which they didn't) then added the OSB and then put the new wrap over the OSB (which they left bare) before adding the new siding....Sorry I don't have a picture.
OF COURSE yes! OSB will rot.
@@peaceoutpeaceout4267 Technically water from rain shouldn't be able to get behind siding at all. But they say that vinyl siding sweats, and that's what gets behind and rots the wood. I'm not for sure if other types of siding, Hardy board or the like sweats or not to be honest.
darksideoftheloom Yes, for sure! The house wrap goes on top of the sheathing, not behind it!
What graphics program is this ?
Really good
sketchup
@@ProTradeCraft He really needs to ketchup
What are those rong screws and discs called? I find them listed at Lowes or HomeDepot.
Cap nails.
Pen15 brand