An option to the GOTOH bridge is the Floyd Rose RAIL TAIL bridge. It is a dive only bridge and bolts in with no alterations to the guitar body. The rail bolts in the six screw hole at the front of the stock Fender style bridge. I have them on a couple of my Strat style guitars and I love them.
I never understood the urgency of having a Tone regulation on the Neck Pickup, for me this is one of the points where Leo eff'd up. All my Strats are reworked so there is Tone to Mid and Bridge, much more useful, especially when your Bridge Pickup is a bit on the bright side and cuts your ears off when going full blast...
@@paroblynn Yes, it's conductive. it's a graphite based formula. Can't remember the brand name off the top of my head. I paid about $14 for a quart can.
Btw - would be a great video explaining the loading a tone pot can have on a pickup and the difference of a tone pot connected or not on the response of a pickup. Mine is wired with the tones on the neck and bridge and the middle without.
I see a bunch a frets that could stand to have a level crown and polish. I’m surprised that’s not something you do and I’m happy you said it’s out of your area rather than doing it. I do that a good bit and I’ve fixed a lot of bad jobs in that realm, much the same as you’ve fixed bad wiring in amps etc. Good video. Congratulations on 30k subs too. Keep it up.
Thanks man. It’s something I’ve done in the past (at guitar shops) and know how to do, but I don’t have all the proper tools here. Better to do no harm than halfass it.
Hey Lyle, there's some smaller tooth washers you can get from switchcraft that work better for guitar pots and jacks that are about 1/2 as thick. Also if you wanna go the extra mile you can shield the pickup covers too.
It really only helps if you have little divots or burrs in the fret. Just rub the back of a stainless steel spoon across them to smooth out the problem. It’s a stopgap, not a substitute for recrowning etc.
Do the newer Gotoh have steel blocks? I installed a Gotoh vintage for my 1987 Tokai back in the 90s - saddles had grooves that were string snappers. The Gotoh had an alloy block. It took about 10 years to realise it wasn't steel as I'd assumed - did change the sound of the guitar quite a bit. Have since put the original back in with replacement Tokai saddles sent straight from Japan. Re the arm - have you tried putting a spring in the hole under it? I have on mine and it resolved a lot of the play and also lets you keep the arm where you want it!.
Sorry for all the questions Lyle, but I’m slowly working on a Strat build with premium parts. What type of foil did you use on the back of the pickguard?
Kluson and several others make one piece aluminum plates cut to fit std strats, Amazon carries them. Of course you can make your own carefully cutting with an xacto knife too.
Not Lyle, but I have used the 7581As. They're the closest thing I've found to Sylvanias since Winged C stopped making receiving tubes. But I trust approximately zero tubes coming out of Russia atm, nor do I want to give them money.
@@matthewf1979 I’ve never had a problem. The most important thing to remember is to ground everything. Where most fail is tearing up their foil tape with their bite washers and losing ground continuity. But to each his own.
@@richardnagamitsu1582 grounding all items requiring ground. You should be able to test continuity from your farthest ground point to the ground on your input jack and have continuity. All grounds should essentially be tied together either physically together or tangentially but with a bonding path. If I ensure that and ensure my back plate is nicely covered with conductive copper tape with continuity I find, personally, that shielding that cavities is not required. That’s my personal findings. Other are allowed to feel differently and that’s fine. They can copper tape away. And also my experience has been that conductive paint losses it’s effectiveness after a period of time as well. So I never use that either. Cheers.
@@Questionable_Talent , Goof Off and Goo Gone are not the same thing. Goof Off is harsh, hazes plastic and removes paint. Ordinary Goo Gone is similar to Naptha and safe on most plastic and paint finishes (although there is also an extra-strength Goo Gone formula that can damage plastic/paint).
@@jerrystephenson1172 , yup, aka "Ronsonol". I use both Goo-Gone and Ronsonol lighter fluid as general cleaning solvents. A medium sized jug of Goo-Gone ends of being cheaper I think. As I mentioned elsewhere here, Goof-Off is a much different solvent, very harsh on some surfaces, and unpleasant to breathe. You really don't want to confuse the two!
That blue sparkle looks absolutely cool.
An option to the GOTOH bridge is the Floyd Rose RAIL TAIL bridge. It is a dive only bridge and bolts in with no alterations to the guitar body. The rail bolts in the six screw hole at the front of the stock Fender style bridge. I have them on a couple of my Strat style guitars and I love them.
Do you use some kind of grease on the rail? I had one when it was called a Boogie Rail, before FR bought the design.
@@brianohamill7236 yes you put a thin film of lithium grease on the rail before you place the tremolo unit in place
It would be interesting to see a series of videos on the various wirings with all the tricks we could experiment with like tone bleed etc. Thanks
I never understood the urgency of having a Tone regulation on the Neck Pickup, for me this is one of the points where Leo eff'd up.
All my Strats are reworked so there is Tone to Mid and Bridge, much more useful, especially when your Bridge Pickup is a bit on the bright side and cuts your ears off when going full blast...
I like neck and middle sharing one tone and bridge on it's own. Very easy mod to do.
I found some sheilding paint at Tractor Supply, about $14 a quart. I love doing this kind of restoration. It's fun for me to watch you doing it too!
Is it electrically conductive? I need to pick some up there if it’s cheap. I buy it normally from stewmac and it’s more expensive than house paint.
Love that sparkle paint .
@@paroblynn Yes, it's conductive. it's a graphite based formula. Can't remember the brand name off the top of my head. I paid about $14 for a quart can.
@@ferdberfle5069 that’s awesome. I’m going to check my local one out. Thanks for the info.
@@paroblynn I believe what he's talking about is called Ez Slide
Btw - would be a great video explaining the loading a tone pot can have on a pickup and the difference of a tone pot connected or not on the response of a pickup. Mine is wired with the tones on the neck and bridge and the middle without.
Finally, doing something I understand 😂😂
Kidding, you're videos are very ifot friendly and that's a good thing.
I see a bunch a frets that could stand to have a level crown and polish. I’m surprised that’s not something you do and I’m happy you said it’s out of your area rather than doing it. I do that a good bit and I’ve fixed a lot of bad jobs in that realm, much the same as you’ve fixed bad wiring in amps etc.
Good video. Congratulations on 30k subs too. Keep it up.
Thanks man. It’s something I’ve done in the past (at guitar shops) and know how to do, but I don’t have all the proper tools here. Better to do no harm than halfass it.
horses for courses. Lyle 'owns' some things, but is smart enough to know when to decline.
@@BenState I literally said the same thing.
Those old, worn parts did look very cool though. A real life relicing job.
those frets need replacin
Its been leveled and crowned already?
Hey Lyle, there's some smaller tooth washers you can get from switchcraft that work better for guitar pots and jacks that are about 1/2 as thick. Also if you wanna go the extra mile you can shield the pickup covers too.
Shield the inside of the pup covers with shielding tape?
@@richardnagamitsu1582 Yeah, I've done it before.
And now for some thing completely different . It's Lyle does getars ( and this machine does not go ping).
I'm wanting to see a mint green guard on that just because.
Good evening Lyle, appreciate your hard work as always.
I’m interested in that spoon burnishing. I’m horrible to my frets. My first instrument is hitting things with sticks.
It really only helps if you have little divots or burrs in the fret. Just rub the back of a stainless steel spoon across them to smooth out the problem.
It’s a stopgap, not a substitute for recrowning etc.
Do the newer Gotoh have steel blocks?
I installed a Gotoh vintage for my 1987 Tokai back in the 90s - saddles had grooves that were string snappers. The Gotoh had an alloy block. It took about 10 years to realise it wasn't steel as I'd assumed - did change the sound of the guitar quite a bit.
Have since put the original back in with replacement Tokai saddles sent straight from Japan.
Re the arm - have you tried putting a spring in the hole under it?
I have on mine and it resolved a lot of the play and also lets you keep the arm where you want it!.
Gotoh GE101TS with steel block.
anything sparkly is good. \m/
Sorry for all the questions Lyle, but I’m slowly working on a Strat build with premium parts. What type of foil did you use on the back of the pickguard?
Kluson and several others make one piece aluminum plates cut to fit std strats, Amazon carries them. Of course you can make your own carefully cutting with an xacto knife too.
So, is this an older Fender Custom Shop Strat? I've never owned a Strat of that level. Cool blue sparkle finish.
Congratulations on the 30k subscribers. This will be an interesting series. Thanks.
Hey Lyle!! I know that guitar! Bass boat sparkle!
congrats on 30k subs Lyle, wow!
Hi Lyle have you tried the TUNG-SOL 7581A.
Also how are the newer Traynor amps, have you worked on any?
Excellent content on your channel, thanks!
Not Lyle, but I have used the 7581As. They're the closest thing I've found to Sylvanias since Winged C stopped making receiving tubes. But I trust approximately zero tubes coming out of Russia atm, nor do I want to give them money.
@@davidfuller581 Thanks David and agreed on you last point. Cheers.
@@davidfuller581 tung sol is owned by sovtek , owned by an AMERICAN guy
@@AC-re5yj the factory is in Russia, and they have to pay to get the tubes out. So... Still.
Is it the most expensive machine in the hospital?
My Strat got the scientific experiments....
Shielding tape vs. paint?
What model Gotoh bridge?
Foil the back of the guard an no need to foil the cavity. Faraday cage makes no difference.
I beg to differ, sir. It most definitely does make a difference if it’s done right.
@@matthewf1979 I’ve never had a problem. The most important thing to remember is to ground everything. Where most fail is tearing up their foil tape with their bite washers and losing ground continuity. But to each his own.
@@Souldoubtrocks Could you elaborate more on, “ground everything”?
@@richardnagamitsu1582 grounding all items requiring ground. You should be able to test continuity from your farthest ground point to the ground on your input jack and have continuity. All grounds should essentially be tied together either physically together or tangentially but with a bonding path. If I ensure that and ensure my back plate is nicely covered with conductive copper tape with continuity I find, personally, that shielding that cavities is not required. That’s my personal findings. Other are allowed to feel differently and that’s fine. They can copper tape away. And also my experience has been that conductive paint losses it’s effectiveness after a period of time as well. So I never use that either. Cheers.
@@Souldoubtrocks Thank you!
Naphtha?
Bulk "goof off\goo gone". Also zippo fuel. Great for removing adhesives and other chemical goop.
@@Questionable_Talent , Goof Off and Goo Gone are not the same thing. Goof Off is harsh, hazes plastic and removes paint. Ordinary Goo Gone is similar to Naptha and safe on most plastic and paint finishes (although there is also an extra-strength Goo Gone formula that can damage plastic/paint).
@@goodun2974 Charcoal starter fluid is naphtha in most cases & that's what I use.
@@jerrystephenson1172 , yup, aka "Ronsonol". I use both Goo-Gone and Ronsonol lighter fluid as general cleaning solvents. A medium sized jug of Goo-Gone ends of being cheaper I think. As I mentioned elsewhere here, Goof-Off is a much different solvent, very harsh on some surfaces, and unpleasant to breathe. You really don't want to confuse the two!
Harder to follow up on the machine that goes ping…. Unless I tell you your video simply needs more apparatus in case the administrator shows up
3, 3 things.... whahahahaha.