That valve noise ended up being the gear on the crankshaft that meshes with the camshaft. The key was damaged and the gear was moving a little on the crankshaft. After fixing that the valve noise was gone, but still knocking. Need a new crankshaft. Crankshaft gear can be seen here th-cam.com/video/Qpfyo63v_bc/w-d-xo.html
@@kenhilson786 Depends on how the engine failed. It could have locked up on the crank and deposited or galled metal from it, which would make the crank not usable.
Your systematic and thorough approach makes you a top quality TH-camr. You aren't trying to coin childish phrases or entertain with destruction and fire. Thank you and keep doing exactly what you're doing as I believe your calm collected approach is a winner.
Yeah a lot of guys think they are funny on TH-cam, talk too much, and play grab ass. It has it's place, however, if you are here to learn, your channel hits the mark!
@@ericvaughn1126 I agree with A. Smith on your approached assembly. Quiet, calm, confident that you are on the right track. I could sit and watch your videos forever, Sir. God Bless.
James, You may or may not know this. Just a bit of info for your memory banks. I was a mechanic for 50 years, a drag racer over 40 years. Any time you torque anything and use an extension, you lose some torque. It twists, ( the shorter the better) even if you use a 1/2 in drive extension you lose some torque (Chrysler and GM use these and call them torsion bars). The longer it is the more you lose. A 1/4 in drive extension you lose bunches. I see you with extension's all the time. All i'm saying is stuff isn't as tight as you think it is. Check it out. Anyway good job.
James you are highly ethical. I just bought a new used car. From out of town. A dealer over near Seattle. The car they sold us looks brand new inside and out. Even a new paint job. The previous owner had really scratched up the backup camera. I took a drill with nut drivers of different sizes that fit the lens and with a cloth with mirroglaze I ran the drill with the different sizes and now the camera looks perfect
I really like your ability to trouble shoot problems. Watching you have taught me to fix my generator and set it up with my kill a watt meter. But can’t find any generator wiring diagrams or where to get parts. I just occasionally repair one for family. Thank you James
Another guy would have sold this unit with the noise. Not James! I would be comfortable buying any generator he repaired knowing it was done correct. Thank you James for your honesty…
Who would have thought it was a problem in the exact area where you was working. Well you definitely was in the right area, just not right place but you did point out the obvious. Its a win anyway you want to look at it James. Thanks for sharing.
Oh man! A twist we didn't see coming! Love it. Except for the part where you send me to my desk late on a Thursday morning... again. 😉 Also, as I began watching your videos I was thinking a proper nickname must be James Torque Wrench Condon because of your precision when reassembling. Then I thought James Crickets Condon due to the soothing sounds of the crickets your videos always have. Today I realized it MUST be James Job Condon for the unearthly patience you clearly have! That is a blessing that I don't have. Great call in the end and keep em coming, James!
That scorned responder has had more mechanic time than run time lol great job adapting James. Curse Briggs and Stratton for not putting low oil sensors on an engine that don't even hold a quart of oil lol
You seem like a young man... My question is...with all the work you do on your hand and knees, why not make a bench to work at waist level... You will thank my in years to come...Believe Me...
What I don't understand is you don't have to a rocket scientist to know that the oil is the life blood of any engine. Also, fuel is another neglected item. People need to to use Sta.Bil or seaform so it doesn't go bad. It's basic engine knowledge. Rant over😁 Anyway another great job saving a generator from the landfill. Better to have the engine on a shelf that can be parted out. I did hear the difference in engine noise when inserted the clips. Big difference between the good and bad sounds. Nicely done as always.👍👍👍
I really like the care that you put into your work (hobby?) to make sure that the machines that you repair/rebuild are the best they can be before selling them!
Getting much knowledge from videos, keeping the videos coming. I started on 3rd generator cleaned carb put back on engine sprayed a little start fluid in it pulled couple times, nothing. Checked spark it was there but weak. Pulled valve cover. The retaining nut and adjustment screw were missing from the intake rocker. Luckily I did find them with a magnet. Got it all back together. Gotta set the lash and check torg spec on bolt holding the rocker and it should run. Thank for your help.
thanks James I rely enjoy your movies your a regular steven spieberg i lean a lot from your attention to detail i know its a lot of work, hang in there so we can keep learning. thanks
Another great video James. You are very thorough with your systematic approach. My experience with single cylinder small engines is that rod knock may not show up if the engine is not making compression. Careful measurement of your rod and main bearings/ journals during teardown will will be very helpful. Thanks again for keeping an old man entertained. 👍
Thanks. Only happens when the engine is actively running. That valve noise ended up being the crank gear that drives the cam. The key was not good and the gear was moving a little. I ended up buying a proper micrometer after this attempt. The caliper I was using for this engine was not precise enough.
Every time I see your name I think it’s me, I’m a Congdon, and everyone misspells it as Condon. Great vids btw, reminds me a lot of Mustie1 which is a big compliment!
I just went through this same exercise a couple of weeks ago with a Briggs Quantum on a Toro SR4. It definitely wasn’t a rod knock, it was a sharp metallic rapping that came and went. I tore the engine down and inspected every part; no connecting rod play, no piston slap, no cam wobble, valves are free and clearances are fine. The only thing that seems questionable is the upper end crankshaft play which might be a little excessive, though it’s fine when the oil sump is installed. I don’t know what the source of the noise is but I don’t trust it so I converted it from a blade brake clutch to a standard mower and installed a Honda gcv160 engine I had here. It works fine now but the reason I bought it was because it had the blade clutch. Oh well!
I had one of those B+S engines with a similar knock. Did all that investigative work and couldn't find the reason so fitted another used engine. It lay under my work bench for months, mocking me each time I went into the workshop. I couldn't stand it any longer, i had to know. Took it apart again and after many hours I found that the valve must have contacted the piston, the shock load had stressed the spline on the camshaft making the lobe a little loose. I had to really grip the lobe to move it but it could be moved. I moved the cam to the correct position, I think, and welded the bugger. Noise gone. TA DAA
16:21 Dowel pin if solid. But that one looked hollow with a break in the metal down the length of it, a split pin I think. I understand how its not always possible to remember terms in the moment while filming. I don't hear a difference between those engines, but of course that means nothing over the interwebs, even with computer speakers like I have. I would fill the gas tank and oil, put in on a load, and just run it until runs out of gas to test it, rinse and repeat. And I understand your reluctance to sell it to anyone, based on vastly more experience than I have. Keep up the great work!
So if the noise doesn't get worse... ???? ... I figure it will run well enough for a day or two over several years and serve a purpose albeit lightly and for something non-critical. Then bury it later? Super good lessons learned, thanks for the video!
Really like your videos great job , at most hardware stores "Good Ones" they have a "steel collar" or "bushing" maybe online ? That will fit that long stator bolt exactly bolt Diameter to Bearing Diameter you can also find nylon or brass bushings
Well sir you said it right that engine is junk, it’s a Briggs so it was that way from the factory. When Briggs came out with the intek junk it was game over. We really need a new company to come and bring us a excellent quality small engine line definitely an open market
Excellent video, good job ... you have the gift of teaching and giving your experience, and patience is your virtue ... thank you master ... ps I'm using the translator ... nice day ...🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍
My generator is a china made & its a clanky sounding but i hear what your saying about not wanting to sell it to someone else but it has ran that way for years & i bought it new in 2009 so i think I'm just going to leave it alone I mean it may be different than yours but its got that same sound as yours. Thanks for sharing!
That noise when turning the engine with the drill ended up being the gear on the crank that drives the cam shaft. The key was bad, but it still knocked after replacing it. Crank was just worn.
31:40 it runs quiet with no intake valve, so the bottom end should be good. I'd have a look at the intake valve / guide / seat to see if anything is faulty before parting out the engine.
That noise ended up being the gear on the crank that drives the cam shaft. The gears was sloppy on the key. I ended up swapping that out and the noise when turning the engine manually went away. Top end was quiet, but still knocked when running. Must be the crank journal.
If you have to plastic gage the connecting rod journal. figure out a way dial indicate the end play. See if you can check up and down play in the front and rear main bearings.
I might have swapped the head just in case that the intake valve guide is worn causing the valve to clack when hitting the seat. Just a thought. Thanks!
Hi James, I was thinking maybe piston slap or rod knock, but the cam drive gear being loose on the crank makes sense, shame the crank got damaged in the process😔
@@generessler6282 I have one that blew up after 50 hours. I checked the oil every day except the last two:( I need a crank, piston, connecting rod, and to have the cylinder bored. From the number of blown engines these storm responders have i think they are just junk. Will never buy another without a low oil shut off.
I've seen a lot of your videos. Most of the engines are B&S. I moved to Honda engines in lawmowers years ago. Any comments on what your "best" engine would be? Obviously price could be a determinant, but if wasn't an issue?
I recently installed a new connecting rod due to the cap bolts backing out. I don't recall hearing the cam noise initially but after running it or 15 minute or so, I noticed a rattling sound. It's the same exact noise in this video. I have not had a chance to investigate further but I'm pretty certain it's not rod knock. I do recall that the gear on the crankshaft slid on with no resistance and surely could have had some slop that I didn't notice. I'll take a look at it some more next weekend.
@@jcondon1 I pulled the engine apart and removed the camshaft. The sound persists. That gear is a bit sloppy on the key but wasn't the source of the noise in this engine. I noticed the sound coincides with the piston moving excessively in the bore on rotation so, basically, it's piston slap.
I noticed the cam lobe appears to be on a splined cam shaft. Are they pressed on? Is this some kind of cost savings method Briggs used? If so it appears this engine has been cost optimized to render it disposable in the event of certain failures. I admire your tenacity and value methodology..
how are the Generators on the Brigg units ? I have a honda powered one (7000/12000 PowerBoss)and I am getting ready to put a big load on it. Not worried about the honda 390x. I wonder about the Generator itself
The Briggs generator heads that look like the one in this video are built pretty good. They do fail like any other, but see that less often then others.
Greetings: Where is the AVR on this model? As the brush wires control the rotor current to set the AC output voltage and they appear to go into the stator housing or go into the external wiring harness the control is likely on the AC outlet panel making the adjustment easier.
I have a generator like this that i need an engine for but i cant find anything. Is there any new model engines that you know of with the same output shaft?
The Yamaha MZ300, MZ360 or the Subaru EX30. Only the MZ360 will get the full 5500 watts. The others will get to about 5000 watts before running out of power. Also some Honda GX390's will fit but they are hard to come by with the right crankshaft.
James, very nice video! That engine sounds a little off ,but seems to run fine. Do you ever use anti seize on bolts? Nice to see you using a torque wrench. A striped bolt will ruin your day as i have experienced! Roger
I was testing an invertor today, type that converts battery to 120 vac. My kill a watt meter read 120.2 but reading on invertor fluctuated between 118 and 119.
Use Plasti-Gauge on the crank bearing journal to check the oil clearance; I don't know off hand what the clearance is but if I had to guess, anything above 2 thousandths is too much
Not to sound overly critical but you should never hold a torque wrench anywhere but the head and handle while torqueing or it will give a false reading.
That valve noise ended up being the gear on the crankshaft that drives the cam. The gear was sloppy in the key. I swapped that out and the valve noise was gone, buy not the knocking. :(
Maybe you can answer this.. Why does these engines run out of oil.. do they burn all the oil or is there a leak.. I never owned a generator just curious... I run my lawnmowers about an hour each week during the summer i always check the oil before using they are never low on oil..thanks
Barring any leaks, as the piston goes up and down, there's a very, very, very thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall that is left behind. It burns off during the power stroke. There's so little oil that burns off that you rarely see smoke. But over years of neglect, the oil in the crankcase eventually gets burned off.
I have a request for you James, please, PLEASE stop banging on a defective rotor with a hammer! It hurts deep in my electrican heart 😊 A blown rotor can easily be rewound provided you find the right workshop and the cost should be peanuts compared to the price of a new rotor. So please, use a rubber mallet if you HAVE TO bang on it 🙂
Have you ever tried to measure the output, when just turning the rotor with your drill, instead of it being turned with the engine?!! As' i was thinking, if' i could get it to just give me a 60volts output, it would be enough to charge my battery and could then use a much smaller engine on it or even use a wind powered driving the rotor and do a way with the engine altogether, what would be your thinking on these thoughts?!! Regards George.
The alternators on generators are not the best for using on something powered by wind where the output varies with speed. Also there is no permanent magnet inside. The rotor must be powered in order to get anything out of the stator. You would be better of with a generator that uses permanent magnets.
@@jcondon1 Thankyou for your reply, So' the rotor is a electric magnetic rotor needing a 12volts supply to it, i think have heard you mention 12volts from your video's? What's your thoughts on making a permanent magnetic rotor for it?!! Regards George.
It is quite an important lesson : When to ''call it a Day''. & i'm sure like many i have difficulty doing it. It just seems such a waste sometimes, Particularly when you know something can be repaired but the parts sourcing, price & time involved outweighs the instinctive itch of the challenge & (hopefully) subsequent achievement of getting an engine running right. Besides the illogical economic facts, Sometimes we just have to swallow our own stubbornness & Vanity & just ''Call it a Day''. But on the bright side, we have a shit load of parts that can be used to reincarnate other projects that would otherwise suffer the same fate ?
I have a lot of Briggs parts! Will revisit this at some point. I have another Briggs 10hp engine that ran out of oil. The block did not survive, but maybe the crank is in better condition. Wish the cranks were available at a lower price.
I did not hear the knock when you spun it over without the valve train. Is that key way just hogged out and the cam timing gear on the crank side just clacking? So, what's with your neck of the woods and generators? I'm about an hour or so away from you in Mass and occasionally Marketplace shows me stuff from further away. Nothing within 30 miles of me, but last week there were three of these things on Marketplace in CT for less than $100 and one of them was free. Snow blowers I can get by the truck load, not generators.
There are cone washers that might be made just for that bolt. Most are made of rubber for plumbing applications but there are metal ones available. The questioni is: is there one for that size bolt. Why B&S didn't use them is another question.
Have since got some and the crank journal was out of spec. I have another 10hp engine that ran out of oil. Going to take that one apart shortly to see if that crank is any good.
I wondered why you completely disassembled the generator to remove it. Is wee my first instinct was correct, not necessary to disassemble the generator. I hope it all works for you m
i have a brand new brigs generator that come in with that sound but it comes out whenever there is a load like 100w up the knocking sound comes out maybe that's the case in that engine...
It is possible. Thats what I though it was at first. At the time I made this video, I did not have a micrometer to check the crank journal. Instead I used a caliper that was only accurate to about a hundredth of an inch. I have a micrometer now which can measure to ten thousandths of an inch. At some point will take it apart again and check the crank journal. Did not feel good about selling it to someone unless I know 100% the crank journal is good.
I will revisits this. Assume either the crank journal is out of spec or the piston pin. At the time I made this video only had a caliper good to a hundredth of an inch. Have since purchased a micrometer that will give me the precision I need to find the issue.
He probably use an aftermarket Rod because they’re cheaper but if you use an aftermarket rod in a Briggs & Stratton, then you don’t like that the bolt, it’ll blow them out again every time because it doesn’t have the little ears catch the head of the boat to keep my place like the breaks
At the time I only had a caliper to measure the crank and it looked within spec. I was wrong. Have since purchase a micrometer. Will not make that mistake again.
What's your thoughts on leaving a generator outside all year round? I have a generator box but a little worried about the winter time and freezing condition. Also how to keep propane from freezing up on me in the winter.
James joined a small live stream a couple of months ago where you can see and hear him talking about generators and more - th-cam.com/video/umObjtT4KKk/w-d-xo.html
That valve noise ended up being the gear on the crankshaft that meshes with the camshaft. The key was damaged and the gear was moving a little on the crankshaft. After fixing that the valve noise was gone, but still knocking. Need a new crankshaft. Crankshaft gear can be seen here th-cam.com/video/Qpfyo63v_bc/w-d-xo.html
What about crankshaft from the engine that had blown rod?
I typed in that url and got this video, not a different one.
@@kenhilson786 Depends on how the engine failed. It could have locked up on the crank and deposited or galled metal from it, which would make the crank not usable.
@@kenhilson786 the link takes you to 34:07 in the same video where the gear can be seen.
@GGigabiteM not entirely true. Getting aluminum off of steel isnt too hard. Usually the steel is still good once galled alum is removed
Your systematic and thorough approach makes you a top quality TH-camr. You aren't trying to coin childish phrases or entertain with destruction and fire. Thank you and keep doing exactly what you're doing as I believe your calm collected approach is a winner.
Yeah a lot of guys think they are funny on TH-cam, talk too much, and play grab ass. It has it's place, however, if you are here to learn, your channel hits the mark!
Amen and well said! 👍
@@ericvaughn1126 I agree with A. Smith on your approached assembly. Quiet, calm, confident that you are on the right track. I could sit and watch your videos forever, Sir. God Bless.
James, You may or may not know this. Just a bit of info for your memory banks. I was a mechanic for 50 years, a drag racer over 40 years. Any time you torque anything and use an extension, you lose some torque. It twists, ( the shorter the better) even if you use a 1/2 in drive extension you lose some torque (Chrysler and GM use these and call them torsion bars). The longer it is the more you lose. A 1/4 in drive extension you lose bunches. I see you with extension's all the time. All i'm saying is stuff isn't as tight as you think it is. Check it out. Anyway good job.
Can’t wait for the next video....simply love you honesty ,integrity and knowledge....keep up the great work!
James you are highly ethical. I just bought a new used car. From out of town. A dealer over near Seattle. The car they sold us looks brand new inside and out. Even a new paint job. The previous owner had really scratched up the backup camera. I took a drill with nut drivers of different sizes that fit the lens and with a cloth with mirroglaze I ran the drill with the different sizes and now the camera looks perfect
I really like your ability to trouble shoot problems. Watching you have taught me to fix my generator and set it up with my kill a watt meter. But can’t find any generator wiring diagrams or where to get parts. I just occasionally repair one for family. Thank you James
Another guy would have sold this unit with the noise. Not James! I would be comfortable buying any generator he repaired knowing it was done correct. Thank you James for your honesty…
Who would have thought it was a problem in the exact area where you was working. Well you definitely was in the right area, just not right place but you did point out the obvious. Its a win anyway you want to look at it James. Thanks for sharing.
Oh man! A twist we didn't see coming! Love it. Except for the part where you send me to my desk late on a Thursday morning... again. 😉 Also, as I began watching your videos I was thinking a proper nickname must be James Torque Wrench Condon because of your precision when reassembling. Then I thought James Crickets Condon due to the soothing sounds of the crickets your videos always have. Today I realized it MUST be James Job Condon for the unearthly patience you clearly have! That is a blessing that I don't have. Great call in the end and keep em coming, James!
Thanks Eric. I think I have a family of Crickets living in my garage. I might revisit this engine at some point.
Yeah, I think James "Torque Wrech" Condon would be a good one ;)
In this video you provide to that you know when to hold ‘em know when to fold them and know when to walk away.
I loved the video as always.
That scorned responder has had more mechanic time than run time lol
great job adapting James. Curse Briggs and Stratton for not putting low oil sensors on an engine that don't even hold a quart of oil lol
You seem like a young man... My question is...with all the work you do on your hand and knees, why not make a bench to work at waist level... You will thank my in years to come...Believe Me...
I wear two hearing aids and i thought the engine sounded normal, i couldnt quite pick up the knock. Very informative. Thanks
It does not come across on the video very well and knock was not that bad, but don't want to sell it to someone unless it is perfect.
I was not hearing it, either, until around 36:14, when we heard 2 good units and then this one. Then, I think I could hear the noise.
What I don't understand is you don't have to a rocket scientist to know that the oil is the life blood of any engine. Also, fuel is another neglected item. People need to to use Sta.Bil or seaform so it doesn't go bad. It's basic engine knowledge. Rant over😁 Anyway another great job saving a generator from the landfill. Better to have the engine on a shelf that can be parted out. I did hear the difference in engine noise when inserted the clips. Big difference between the good and bad sounds. Nicely done as always.👍👍👍
Your videos are so awesome. Seriously, I just really enjoy your methodical approach.
I really like the care that you put into your work (hobby?) to make sure that the machines that you repair/rebuild are the best they can be before selling them!
NICE JOB JAMES YOU REALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. GOOD LUCK WITH THE GENERATOR.
Getting much knowledge from videos, keeping the videos coming. I started on 3rd generator cleaned carb put back on engine sprayed a little start fluid in it pulled couple times, nothing. Checked spark it was there but weak. Pulled valve cover. The retaining nut and adjustment screw were missing from the intake rocker. Luckily I did find them with a magnet. Got it all back together. Gotta set the lash and check torg spec on bolt holding the rocker and it should run. Thank for your help.
Love your small engine and generator repairs learned alot you do very good work now got me working on stuff now 👍
I just turned down a leaf blower with the same “knocking” 10 hp Briggs. Glad I saw this video! Don’t need a money pit!
Have not given up hope. I have another 10hp Briggs with a hole in the block. Maybe that crank survived?
Did you get a set of Mics? Bore gage?
@@KensSmallEngineRepair just a couple mics and a better caliper. Still need a bore gauge.
Very unique power head I kinda like that it comes apart in several stages looks alot easier to work on
thanks James I rely enjoy your movies your a regular steven spieberg i lean a lot from your attention to detail i know its a lot of work, hang in there so we can keep learning. thanks
Another great video James. You are very thorough with your systematic approach. My experience with single cylinder small engines is that rod knock may not show up if the engine is not making compression. Careful measurement of your rod and main bearings/ journals during teardown will will be very helpful. Thanks again for keeping an old man entertained. 👍
Thanks. Only happens when the engine is actively running. That valve noise ended up being the crank gear that drives the cam. The key was not good and the gear was moving a little. I ended up buying a proper micrometer after this attempt. The caliper I was using for this engine was not precise enough.
Every time I see your name I think it’s me, I’m a Congdon, and everyone misspells it as Condon. Great vids btw, reminds me a lot of Mustie1 which is a big compliment!
I enjoy working on generator
Takes up less room and easy to get to on a bench
I just went through this same exercise a couple of weeks ago with a Briggs Quantum on a Toro SR4. It definitely wasn’t a rod knock, it was a sharp metallic rapping that came and went. I tore the engine down and inspected every part; no connecting rod play, no piston slap, no cam wobble, valves are free and clearances are fine. The only thing that seems questionable is the upper end crankshaft play which might be a little excessive, though it’s fine when the oil sump is installed. I don’t know what the source of the noise is but I don’t trust it so I converted it from a blade brake clutch to a standard mower and installed a Honda gcv160 engine I had here. It works fine now but the reason I bought it was because it had the blade clutch. Oh well!
Nobody can say that James Condon doesn't make a big effort. I am pretty sure this was just junk. Thank you for sharing your video with us. Ed
That what happens when you run an engine out of oil.
@@jcondon1 it seemed like maybe something is warped to me.
Another great video and learning experience. Thank you James!
I had one of those B+S engines with a similar knock. Did all that investigative work and couldn't find the reason so fitted another used engine. It lay under my work bench for months, mocking me each time I went into the workshop. I couldn't stand it any longer, i had to know. Took it apart again and after many hours I found that the valve must have contacted the piston, the shock load had stressed the spline on the camshaft making the lobe a little loose. I had to really grip the lobe to move it but it could be moved. I moved the cam to the correct position, I think, and welded the bugger.
Noise gone. TA DAA
Mine is mocking me from the same location. I did find and fix one issue with the gear on the crankshaft, but there is still another issue.
16:21 Dowel pin if solid. But that one looked hollow with a break in the metal down the length of it, a split pin I think. I understand how its not always possible to remember terms in the moment while filming. I don't hear a difference between those engines, but of course that means nothing over the interwebs, even with computer speakers like I have. I would fill the gas tank and oil, put in on a load, and just run it until runs out of gas to test it, rinse and repeat. And I understand your reluctance to sell it to anyone, based on vastly more experience than I have. Keep up the great work!
It did not come across well on the video. Still have the engine. Will have another go at it someday when I find a better crank shaft.
We call the hollow pins spring pins or spring dowels here in the UK
@@davidwinkle4168 I'm in the US, and it's always great to learn what things are called in other countries. Thanks!
So if the noise doesn't get worse... ???? ... I figure it will run well enough for a day or two over several years and serve a purpose albeit lightly and for something non-critical. Then bury it later? Super good lessons learned, thanks for the video!
Great video James love watching you work? Very interesting and challenging your a man of many talents? Keep safe dude
another great video by the Generator Whisperer!
At 7:32 you refer to a plastic "weather shield". That is a hot air duct to warm the carb, the manual says it can be removed in hot weather.
Really like your videos great job , at most hardware stores "Good Ones" they have a "steel collar" or "bushing" maybe online ? That will fit that long stator bolt exactly bolt Diameter to Bearing Diameter you can also find nylon or brass bushings
Well sir you said it right that engine is junk, it’s a Briggs so it was that way from the factory. When Briggs came out with the intek junk it was game over. We really need a new company to come and bring us a excellent quality small engine line definitely an open market
Valuable learning experience. Thanks🤝
Very nice storm responder bro
Thanks James.
Sorry to hear that you have to call it on this unit with all the work you put into it.
There is a part 3 and part 4 Part 3: th-cam.com/video/5xFvTyqqVeU/w-d-xo.html
Part 4: th-cam.com/video/8GvJkuINoKA/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video James!
Excellent video, good job ... you have the gift of teaching and giving your experience, and patience is your virtue ... thank you master ... ps I'm using the translator ... nice day ...🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍
You are very welcome. Translator is working well.
My generator is a china made & its a clanky sounding but i hear what your saying about not wanting to sell it to someone else but it has ran that way for years & i bought it new in 2009 so i think I'm just going to leave it alone I mean it may be different than yours but its got that same sound as yours. Thanks for sharing!
That noise when turning the engine with the drill ended up being the gear on the crank that drives the cam shaft. The key was bad, but it still knocked after replacing it. Crank was just worn.
31:40 it runs quiet with no intake valve, so the bottom end should be good. I'd have a look at the intake valve / guide / seat to see if anything is faulty before parting out the engine.
That noise ended up being the gear on the crank that drives the cam shaft. The gears was sloppy on the key. I ended up swapping that out and the noise when turning the engine manually went away. Top end was quiet, but still knocked when running. Must be the crank journal.
@@jcondon1 Glad you figured it out.
@36:30 you can defenitly hear the nocking noise I agree its not the top end defenitly sounds like the bottom end like the push rod or the crankshaft
If you have to plastic gage the connecting rod journal. figure out a way dial indicate the end play. See if you can check up and down play in the front and rear main bearings.
Suggest maybe a weak valve spring, letting the lifter/pushrod contact point rattle together?
I might have swapped the head just in case that the intake valve guide is worn causing the valve to clack when hitting the seat. Just a thought. Thanks!
Oh man no compression wow at the damage to the piston and piston rod wow 😳
I get all the enjoyment of wrenching on something without the busted knuckles. 👍
Hi James, I was thinking maybe piston slap or rod knock, but the cam drive gear being loose on the crank makes sense, shame the crank got damaged in the process😔
You can never go wrong using German specs for tightening. Gutentight
could you explain? please
Ahh, just when I needed it!
Did you say this guy ran the engine out of oil twice- blowing it up twice? Maybe he should buy a solar panel and battery lol
Good one🤣
Yeah I was thinking the same. Maybe his rebuild wasn't so good, so it consumed oil.
@@generessler6282 I have one that blew up after 50 hours. I checked the oil every day except the last two:( I need a crank, piston, connecting rod, and to have the cylinder bored. From the number of blown engines these storm responders have i think they are just junk. Will never buy another without a low oil shut off.
I would support the rotor before torquing that long bolt.
A proper engine rebuild should include measuring all wear surface dimensions.
I've seen a lot of your videos. Most of the engines are B&S. I moved to Honda engines in lawmowers years ago. Any comments on what your "best" engine would be? Obviously price could be a determinant, but if wasn't an issue?
I recently installed a new connecting rod due to the cap bolts backing out. I don't recall hearing the cam noise initially but after running it or 15 minute or so, I noticed a rattling sound. It's the same exact noise in this video. I have not had a chance to investigate further but I'm pretty certain it's not rod knock. I do recall that the gear on the crankshaft slid on with no resistance and surely could have had some slop that I didn't notice.
I'll take a look at it some more next weekend.
If I remember right, the noise ended up being the gear on the crank that drives the cam. The keyway was sloppy allowing the gear too much play,
@@jcondon1 I pulled the engine apart and removed the camshaft. The sound persists. That gear is a bit sloppy on the key but wasn't the source of the noise in this engine. I noticed the sound coincides with the piston moving excessively in the bore on rotation so, basically, it's piston slap.
20:37 120 seems very tight. Why is it so tight. Isn't there a risk of damaging the thread?
What about having some bushings made to keep it centered??
I noticed the cam lobe appears to be on a splined cam shaft. Are they pressed on? Is this some kind of cost savings method Briggs used?
If so it appears this engine has been cost optimized to render it disposable in the event of certain failures. I admire your tenacity and value methodology..
Yep junk
wow you waited a month for bolts to arrive.
Would be nice if you gave specific torque readings when you torque things. Are you just guessing?
I have the service manual for this engine. drive.google.com/file/d/1tMrC0ZA6dSZsv8EiacxR3zyZ8i0_vhR0/view?usp=share_link
hi james still a good video cant win them mate ,lots of good spares you can use
10:33 you retorqued the carburator studs again instead of torquing the air filter case nuts.
are you going to open the motor with the broken piston ?
Hi James if you get one or two gremlins in a rebuild you can never get them out best as you said parts machine for that one.
how are the Generators on the Brigg units ? I have a honda powered one (7000/12000 PowerBoss)and I am getting ready to put a big load on it. Not worried about the honda 390x. I wonder about the Generator itself
The Briggs generator heads that look like the one in this video are built pretty good. They do fail like any other, but see that less often then others.
Greetings:
Where is the AVR on this model? As the brush wires control the rotor current to set the AC output voltage and they appear to go into the stator housing or go into the external wiring harness the control is likely on the AC outlet panel making the adjustment easier.
I have a generator like this that i need an engine for but i cant find anything. Is there any new model engines that you know of with the same output shaft?
The Yamaha MZ300, MZ360 or the Subaru EX30. Only the MZ360 will get the full 5500 watts. The others will get to about 5000 watts before running out of power. Also some Honda GX390's will fit but they are hard to come by with the right crankshaft.
Thanks!
James, very nice video! That engine sounds a little off ,but seems to run fine. Do you ever use anti seize on bolts? Nice to see you using a torque wrench. A striped bolt will ruin your day as i have experienced! Roger
Have had a few ruined days due to striped bolts.
Would you happen to know the model number of the original motor on this generator? Thanks?
Yes, it is in the description.
Saw your face in the black guard bro @21:04 know what ya look like now Lmfao 😏 nice to meet ya 🤣 @James Condon
I was testing an invertor today, type that converts battery to 120 vac. My kill a watt meter read 120.2 but reading on invertor fluctuated between 118 and 119.
Use Plasti-Gauge on the crank bearing journal to check the oil clearance; I don't know off hand what the clearance is but if I had to guess, anything above 2 thousandths is too much
I ended up getting some. I was guessing around 1.25 thousands. Will probably make another video on this one at some point.
Not to sound overly critical but you should never hold a torque wrench anywhere but the head and handle while torqueing or it will give a false reading.
hi did you want to try and lap in the intake valve just in case it was something to do with that?
That valve noise ended up being the gear on the crankshaft that drives the cam. The gear was sloppy in the key. I swapped that out and the valve noise was gone, buy not the knocking. :(
Maybe you can answer this.. Why does these engines run out of oil.. do they burn all the oil or is there a leak.. I never owned a generator just curious... I run my lawnmowers about an hour each week during the summer i always check the oil before using they are never low on oil..thanks
Barring any leaks, as the piston goes up and down, there's a very, very, very thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall that is left behind. It burns off during the power stroke. There's so little oil that burns off that you rarely see smoke. But over years of neglect, the oil in the crankcase eventually gets burned off.
@@danburch9989 Thank you
Oil is also lost through the crankcase breather system as the oil mist is being burnt within the combustion process
I have a request for you James, please, PLEASE stop banging on a defective rotor with a hammer! It hurts deep in my electrican heart 😊 A blown rotor can easily be rewound provided you find the right workshop and the cost should be peanuts compared to the price of a new rotor. So please, use a rubber mallet if you HAVE TO bang on it 🙂
Have you ever tried to measure the output, when just turning the rotor with your drill, instead of it being turned with the engine?!! As' i was thinking, if' i could get it to just give me a 60volts output, it would be enough to charge my battery and could then use a much smaller engine on it or even use a wind powered driving the rotor and do a way with the engine altogether, what would be your thinking on these thoughts?!! Regards George.
The alternators on generators are not the best for using on something powered by wind where the output varies with speed. Also there is no permanent magnet inside. The rotor must be powered in order to get anything out of the stator. You would be better of with a generator that uses permanent magnets.
@@jcondon1 Thankyou for your reply, So' the rotor is a electric magnetic rotor needing a 12volts supply to it, i think have heard you mention 12volts from your video's? What's your thoughts on making a permanent magnetic rotor for it?!! Regards George.
It is quite an important lesson : When to ''call it a Day''. & i'm sure like many i have difficulty doing it. It just seems such a waste sometimes, Particularly when you know something can be repaired but the parts sourcing, price & time involved outweighs the instinctive itch of the challenge & (hopefully) subsequent achievement of getting an engine running right. Besides the illogical economic facts, Sometimes we just have to swallow our own stubbornness & Vanity & just ''Call it a Day''. But on the bright side, we have a shit load of parts that can be used to reincarnate other projects that would otherwise suffer the same fate ?
I have a lot of Briggs parts! Will revisit this at some point. I have another Briggs 10hp engine that ran out of oil. The block did not survive, but maybe the crank is in better condition. Wish the cranks were available at a lower price.
I did not hear the knock when you spun it over without the valve train. Is that key way just hogged out and the cam timing gear on the crank side just clacking? So, what's with your neck of the woods and generators? I'm about an hour or so away from you in Mass and occasionally Marketplace shows me stuff from further away. Nothing within 30 miles of me, but last week there were three of these things on Marketplace in CT for less than $100 and one of them was free. Snow blowers I can get by the truck load, not generators.
Been picking a lot up in CT recently.
sounds quieter than my new cheap engine
As usual a great video
I mentioned your channel on Bruce Pender's channel. He said you are a great technician . Check him out-- He is a cool guy.
There are cone washers that might be made just for that bolt. Most are made of rubber for plumbing applications but there are metal ones available. The questioni is: is there one for that size bolt. Why B&S didn't use them is another question.
Well it's a used machine do you warranty it
I use plastigage to check pushrod to crank clearance
Have since got some and the crank journal was out of spec. I have another 10hp engine that ran out of oil. Going to take that one apart shortly to see if that crank is any good.
I wondered why you completely disassembled the generator to remove it. Is wee my first instinct was correct, not necessary to disassemble the generator. I hope it all works for you m
i have a brand new brigs generator that come in with that sound but it comes out whenever there is a load like 100w up the knocking sound comes out maybe that's the case in that engine...
It is possible. Thats what I though it was at first. At the time I made this video, I did not have a micrometer to check the crank journal. Instead I used a caliper that was only accurate to about a hundredth of an inch. I have a micrometer now which can measure to ten thousandths of an inch. At some point will take it apart again and check the crank journal. Did not feel good about selling it to someone unless I know 100% the crank journal is good.
Check the connecting rod the connection to the piston to the shaft
I will revisits this. Assume either the crank journal is out of spec or the piston pin. At the time I made this video only had a caliper good to a hundredth of an inch. Have since purchased a micrometer that will give me the precision I need to find the issue.
He probably use an aftermarket Rod because they’re cheaper but if you use an aftermarket rod in a Briggs & Stratton, then you don’t like that the bolt, it’ll blow them out again every time because it doesn’t have the little ears catch the head of the boat to keep my place like the breaks
Sounds like a wrist pin knock
How's it junk if you said you rebuilt it?
At the time I only had a caliper to measure the crank and it looked within spec. I was wrong. Have since purchase a micrometer. Will not make that mistake again.
@@jcondon1 live and learn. We have all been there. Thats why we never stop buying tools. Always need that next one!
The generator i have reminds you to check the oil every 8 hours but i always check it before i start it. That sounds like a rod knock
It was
What's your thoughts on leaving a generator outside all year round? I have a generator box but a little worried about the winter time and freezing condition. Also how to keep propane from freezing up on me in the winter.
Why is Briggs & Stratton using a Honda based engine? I don't see Honda generators using Briggs & Stratton engines.
Probably piston slap from worn bore.
Is that a true briggs? That fan housing tin looks like a honda, and can we see the man beging the camera ??
James joined a small live stream a couple of months ago where you can see and hear him talking about generators and more - th-cam.com/video/umObjtT4KKk/w-d-xo.html
That Ryobi impact sounds like shit but I love it