Thanks for this, I was away for the weekend with my son, me on my Guzzi V85TT and he was using my NC. His chain came off, I managed to get it back on but it was so slack I was concerned about the 200 mile ride home. Using your video we we outside Halfords at 10am on Sunday to get the right spanners, did the adjustment and back on the road in 30 minutes. You saved a weekend being a bit of a disaster, thanks
Thanks, it is a useful video. For anyone with NC 750S (at least for the 2016 MY), the guide of chain slack is slightly different: 30mm. min 25mm and max 35mm. The tools needed are the same: 12mm, 14mm, 22mm, and 27mm wrenches.
I’m so glad I found your video’s, I have the 750S dct & usually try & find a bloke to do any maintenance, you’ve given me the confidence to attempt some of this stuff myself. Thank you
Thinking of either NC with DCT or a CB500X later this year to replace a 1200 GS. I’m after a less complicated life! Finding your vlogs invaluable, thanks! More droneage!
FYI Torque - the rear axle nut 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 lbf·ft) - drive chain adjusting nuts Torque: 21 N·m (2.1 kgf·m, 15 lbf·ft). as per manual. The user manual also says: "" If a torque wrench was not used for installation, see your dealer as soon as possible to verify proper assembly. Improper assembly may lead to loss of braking capacity.""
I winced a little when I saw you spraying lube without something to catch the overspray. I cut off the flaps from all those cardboard boxes that arrive with new motorcycle gear I've ordered. A good size is about 17" long and I can get 4 from one box. 8 if I trim the bigger flap. Just prop it up behind the chain, making sure it doesn't touch, so lube can get on the far side too, but not on my bike. Cheers!
Thanks for that, adjusted my chain yesterday and used a pair of pliers to hold the adjustment nut while tightening the locknut with an adjustable spanner. The whole time the tools I needed were within arm's reach. I needed a spanner then, I feel like a spanner now!
This is exactly how the chain is lubricated on any motorcycle - in the opposite direction of rotation and in front of the rear tire. There are very few of us who have done it like that... You just had to wash the chain before oiling... But when you are on the road, and there is no mud and dust on the chain, it can be oiled and not washed, from the old grease... until washed in a convenient place.
Different points on the chain doesn't matter. What matters is that the chain is in slack on the bottom and not in slack on the top (which would make it tighter on the bottom). You don't really have to worry if the bike is up on the center stand as the wheel should move freely to allow for the slack to move to where you pull it.
Unless you're riding constantly in a rainy environment, ya don't have to clean and lube your chain ever few hundred kilos. I maintenance my 2017 rebel 300's chain every 500 miles and it's still within day one brand new spec of tension and adjustment room from 4700 miles ago. But, although i'm not in a freaking desert like the state of Arizona, USA, .....Mississippi gets a few chunks of rain here and there. I'm just fairly careful not to ride through puddles and potholes.
It is better to check the chain tension afterwards if it is not too tight, you can do this by setting a person on the bike to get the weight of the person on the rear wheel and check if the chain is not too tight. If so the internal bearing of the sprocket could be damaged!
You can and should use O-shaped keys for the chain tensioners, since you can put them on the bolt. The open-ended wrenches should only be used in case where it's impractical or impossible to use them, such as on mirrors and cables.
Bartosz Banachewicz - thanks for the advice. I assume you are an expert. I'm not. However seeing as you realise these nuts only have mild pressure applied when tightened you would have to agree it's not a catastrophe to use an open ender - specially when that is all that is supplied in the standard tools.
I'm far from an expert, but it's a good habit to pick your keys in the certain order: socket > ring > open. The standard tools are also mostly meant to be used in the emergency situations. Again, not a terrible thing, but investing in a set of tools for the workshop is probably worth it in the long run. Cheers!
You should always take measurements of the chain with weight your weight on the seat. Measuring a chain with the axle dropped will be looser then when you are riding hard and hit a bump really hard. If your chain is too tight and you hit hard bumps, what will happen is the chain will bind and absorb the hard rebound instead of the suspension. I would go looser then what oem calls for, because also the tighter a chain is the more friction, friction and not lubed properly kills chains and sprockets.
@@porkchop10 Try this! Measure the chain with no weight on the kickstand and then measure with your body weight on it. If the chain slack tightens up then know the more weight added to the bike equates to the chain tightening up. You are correct in that some bikes are different, for example the tenere 700 there travel doesnt effect the chain slack but many bikes it does. So if your on a bike and set chain for no load, but slap panniers luggage passenger etc that chain will be super tight, eventually causing a lot of friction and destroying sprockets.
Going forward I'm going to use dry lubes like chain wax. Interesting on the can it says to spray the bottom inside but rotate counterclockwise as you spray. No big whoop but hitting both the inside and rotating the same as the chain travels may be best but this is minor.
Seth Sullivan - those colours are completely useless. They are supposed to show how much your chain has “stretched”. But many variables are involved that make the colours unhelpful.
Would you kindly recommend some lube products that you think is worthy to mention? I guess I should be more specific: I live in a wet & cool climate in the NW USA, similar to the British Isles.
There is an excellent video by “FortNine” on this topic. The best is simple “gear oil” (70-90w) but it can be messy. Otherwise I don’t have a preference - any bike specific spray on is fine with me.
Have you any thought on the pros / cons of automatic chain lubricators such as Scott oilers (other makes are available) ? Thanks for taking the trouble to post your vlogs, I will not be the only one who finds them enjoyable and, if I buy another bike, helpful and encouraging.
C Cooper - I’m not a fan of auto oilers but lots of people are. Auto oilers, no matter how good, will end up oiling lots of stuff as well as the chain - rim, tyre, mudguard etc. which at the very least, looks crappy. Manually oiling allows you to use lube that doesn’t throw off. It gives a chance to check chain tension, any nuts and bolts that may have come loose, the condition of your wheel bearings. I’m too anal-retentive to neglect all these things by using a “set and neglect” system like a chain oiler.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Many thanks for the reply, you flag up very good points. Your tip on using a cut plastic bottle, kero and brush to clean the chain will hopefully make me take better care of my chain than I have done in the past.
These chainadjusters are completly misconstructed. The problem is that when you tighten the axle nut on the right sight the chainadjuster on the right side comes out again and the wheel is not straight anymore. So you have to bash it bag with a rubber hammer while you tighten the axle nut. There is a very helpfull tool. It's a little laser and with this you can check whether the wheel is still straight.
Thanks for your video's mate. I bought a bike just like yours a month ago. This is my first bike, so I am a beginner. Your video helps me by giving me the confidence to do maintenance myself. Great stuff. I have a question. Could you make a video on cleaning the chain, and sprockets please? Do you clean both front and rear sprockets? Thanks again.
Bas Meulen, van der - thanks for the feedback. Chain cleaning - there are heaps of videos on TH-cam about cleaning the chain. Have a look at these as I have nothing unique to offer.
Honda NC750X Stuff This is true and I did watch quite a few. Most of them however only clean the chain and rear sprocket. So could I ask you whether you remove the cover on the front and clean the front sprocket too? Or is there a reason not to do so?
Bas Meulen, van der - good question. No, I don’t bother cleaning the front sprocket. It only gets cleaned out when it’s time to change the sprocket. But do it if you can be bothered as gunk build up between the engine and chain. The rear sprocket cleaning is purely cosmetic, but nice to do. The actual sprocket surfaces the chain runs on are always clean because of friction.
Can you confirm, do you loosen the axle nut on the left side as well. The manual only says to loosen the axle nut on the right side. I did not see you tightening the left axle nut in the video, so just wondering. Thank you for all the great vids!
Dante Nel - if the axle turns when you tighted the nut then hold the left of the axle with another spanner. On my bike the axle doesn’t turn when I tighted the nut so I don’t need to hold the axle.
Shouldn’t be necessary to tighten the adjusters after the axle. This only happens if the person tightening the axle bolt twists the wheel out of alignment while tightening. This tends to leave the right side adjusters loose. If it’s only a poofteenth loose it’s no problem to just tween up the adjusters.
Great video! Question: I just adjusted chain tension for the first time on my NC700X but now when I spin the wheel while on the centerstand I hear soft clicks coming from the drive sprocket side (like misaligned meshing of the chain and sprocket or something) and I can't remember if that was there before or if I screwed something up! Any thoughts? Tension is to spec (35mm or so) and I checked a hundred times that left and right side are equal. Is this just a new chain and sprocket breaking in or is something horribly misaligned?
The best ? Plain gear oil. But it’s smelly and will fling itself all over your clean bike. So I compromise and use any brand of “chain wax” spray lube and lube then chain immediately after a ride while the chain is warm.
no, not correct. the sticker on the side says chain slack should be 35mm not MAXIMUM 35 mm because in the manual it says the slack should be 30 to 40mm and 35mm is right on the money and it also says in the manual that you should not drive if the slack is 60mm. thats the danger zone but max35? who told you that? "I just tighten it up until its tight"? what does that mean? ever heard of torque specifications? owners manual has that information and you should tighten it to a spec not until it feels tight to you.
So skip his videos and move along man! He states he's been riding for 40 years and never has an issue doing it this way, if you want to do torque specs, do them. I typically do myself, but how many times has a mechanic just tightened the hell out of something with air tools and moved on. Did the car fall apart?
It’s a personal preference. The chain must be adjusted at its tightest point (you get tight and loose spots as the chain wears). It’s easiest to find this when on the centre stand. A purest would then mark this point and then put the bike on the side stand to do the adjustment. I don’t bother.
It’s often difficult to bring the axle back tight enough to hold the adjusters firm. This means the adjusters could be left a little loose. So it’s good practice to nip them up tight to be sure.
Tamaresque - the tension should be done with the back wheel on the ground. I use a trolley jack to lift Wendy’s back wheel (no centre stand) when oiling the chain.
this would be my first chain bike. So the o rings need to be kept from dirt and dry rotting and the rest of chain from rusting with some minor cushioning effect where the chain contacts the sprockets. It does not seem that these factors would require much oiling to accomplish. Automatic oilers would seem to be way overkill.
matrix8389 - Mate. It will be a long time before I need to change brake pads. I've only done 8,000km on it. I'm not expecting to change rear pads (they are the first to go) till about 40,000km
Wrong! 25mm is too tight!!! When your swing arm is flat (like when you hit a bump) the chain gets tighter so that’s the reason the manual clearly says 30 - 40 mm of slack. Honestly, you should take this video down. Suggesting that 25mm is good when 30mm is the minimum is absolutely horrible on these bikes and absolutely WILL cause damage over the long haul. You may have been lucky, but you are incorrect.
Thanks for this, I was away for the weekend with my son, me on my Guzzi V85TT and he was using my NC. His chain came off, I managed to get it back on but it was so slack I was concerned about the 200 mile ride home.
Using your video we we outside Halfords at 10am on Sunday to get the right spanners, did the adjustment and back on the road in 30 minutes.
You saved a weekend being a bit of a disaster, thanks
The chain came off? Now I'm worried. My chain has too much slack but I need the sockets to do the adjustment.
Great tutorial. Gave me the confidence to carry it out with simple step by step instructions. Thanks
Thanks, it is a useful video. For anyone with NC 750S (at least for the 2016 MY), the guide of chain slack is slightly different: 30mm. min 25mm and max 35mm. The tools needed are the same: 12mm, 14mm, 22mm, and 27mm wrenches.
I’m so glad I found your video’s, I have the 750S dct & usually try & find a bloke to do any maintenance, you’ve given me the confidence to attempt some of this stuff myself. Thank you
Thinking of either NC with DCT or a CB500X later this year to replace a 1200 GS. I’m after a less complicated life! Finding your vlogs invaluable, thanks! More droneage!
FYI Torque - the rear axle nut 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 lbf·ft) - drive chain adjusting nuts Torque: 21 N·m (2.1 kgf·m, 15 lbf·ft). as per manual.
The user manual also says: ""
If a torque wrench was not used for
installation, see your dealer as soon as
possible to verify proper assembly.
Improper assembly may lead to loss of
braking capacity.""
I winced a little when I saw you spraying lube without something to catch the overspray.
I cut off the flaps from all those cardboard boxes that arrive with new motorcycle gear I've ordered. A good size is about 17" long and I can get 4 from one box. 8 if I trim the bigger flap. Just prop it up behind the chain, making sure it doesn't touch, so lube can get on the far side too, but not on my bike.
Cheers!
Andy C - good tip. In “real life” I DO use rag to catch the overspray. My life wouldn’t be worth living otherwise (the wife is a “clean” sheriff)
The toolkit in the storage has the spanners you need for this. Definitely worth getting a chain alignment tool to make sure the wheel is straight.
Thanks for that, adjusted my chain yesterday and used a pair of pliers to hold the adjustment nut while tightening the locknut with an adjustable spanner. The whole time the tools I needed were within arm's reach. I needed a spanner then, I feel like a spanner now!
As always ,you put some thought into a clear and concise instructive video ,thanks and happy riding!
The axle nut will have a specified torque tightening value. 72 foot pounds for the axle nut and 19 for the adjuster nut.
That he demonstrated "I just turn it until it's tight" and doesn't check the alignment indicator... this video is dangerous.
Your videos are easy to follow and very clear. Thanks very much.
This is exactly how the chain is lubricated on any motorcycle - in the opposite direction of rotation and in front of the rear tire. There are very few of us who have done it like that... You just had to wash the chain before oiling... But when you are on the road, and there is no mud and dust on the chain, it can be oiled and not washed, from the old grease... until washed in a convenient place.
A how to align the wheels video would be highly appreciated.
That was my next question.
maybe a string from the rear wheel to the front? make sure it goes thru the middle of the bike?
Thanks a lot for sharing! It's time to adjust mine also. Your videos are just making things more easy. Greetings!
In the manual I believe it’s supposed to be done on the side Stan
Correct. But it’s more convenient on the centre stand. I just allow slightly more slack.
Many thanks, I have got the same bike and this video is just what i need to do my first chain lubrication and adjustment, great
Super clear explanation...Thanks for sharing. All the best!
Different points on the chain doesn't matter. What matters is that the chain is in slack on the bottom and not in slack on the top (which would make it tighter on the bottom). You don't really have to worry if the bike is up on the center stand as the wheel should move freely to allow for the slack to move to where you pull it.
You make this look easy! Enjoyed the clip.
Thanks for video. Surprised how often it needs lubing. Was thinking of getting NC750x for ride across USA. So I'd have to lube it daily.
this applies to all chain motorcycle, only belt or drive shaft bikes need less lubing
The piece where you lift the chain was perfect. I have the calibration burnt in my right eye, great job mate
Unless you're riding constantly in a rainy environment, ya don't have to clean and lube your chain ever few hundred kilos. I maintenance my 2017 rebel 300's chain every 500 miles and it's still within day one brand new spec of tension and adjustment room from 4700 miles ago. But, although i'm not in a freaking desert like the state of Arizona, USA, .....Mississippi gets a few chunks of rain here and there. I'm just fairly careful not to ride through puddles and potholes.
It is better to check the chain tension afterwards if it is not too tight, you can do this by setting a person on the bike to get the weight of the person on the rear wheel and check if the chain is not too tight. If so the internal bearing of the sprocket could be damaged!
You can and should use O-shaped keys for the chain tensioners, since you can put them on the bolt. The open-ended wrenches should only be used in case where it's impractical or impossible to use them, such as on mirrors and cables.
Bartosz Banachewicz - thanks for the advice. I assume you are an expert. I'm not.
However seeing as you realise these nuts only have mild pressure applied when tightened you would have to agree it's not a catastrophe to use an open ender - specially when that is all that is supplied in the standard tools.
I'm far from an expert, but it's a good habit to pick your keys in the certain order: socket > ring > open. The standard tools are also mostly meant to be used in the emergency situations. Again, not a terrible thing, but investing in a set of tools for the workshop is probably worth it in the long run. Cheers!
A quality 6 point ring end wrench is always better.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful! Cheers
I also use a laser light, very accurate .
You should always take measurements of the chain with weight your weight on the seat. Measuring a chain with the axle dropped will be looser then when you are riding hard and hit a bump really hard. If your chain is too tight and you hit hard bumps, what will happen is the chain will bind and absorb the hard rebound instead of the suspension. I would go looser then what oem calls for, because also the tighter a chain is the more friction, friction and not lubed properly kills chains and sprockets.
it will also kill your gearbox output bearing.
Every bike is different, and Honda says to do this bike on it's kickstand. I'll go with the manufacturer
@@porkchop10 Try this! Measure the chain with no weight on the kickstand and then measure with your body weight on it. If the chain slack tightens up then know the more weight added to the bike equates to the chain tightening up. You are correct in that some bikes are different, for example the tenere 700 there travel doesnt effect the chain slack but many bikes it does. So if your on a bike and set chain for no load, but slap panniers luggage passenger etc that chain will be super tight, eventually causing a lot of friction and destroying sprockets.
Going forward I'm going to use dry lubes like chain wax. Interesting on the can it says to spray the bottom inside but rotate counterclockwise as you spray. No big whoop but hitting both the inside and rotating the same as the chain travels may be best but this is minor.
Does this bike have a main stand as standard, please?
Another clear, concise review.
1990 - no it doesn’t. That’s why I have a video about fitting one!
Great vid, thanks for posting. But werent you bothered that your chain is way to tight? Why didnt you losen it?
Chain is to tight !!
Good video. I have a Honda CTX 700N. Could you explain what the color code diagram on the axle is? The “white, red, and green” label? Thanks
Seth Sullivan - those colours are completely useless. They are supposed to show how much your chain has “stretched”. But many variables are involved that make the colours unhelpful.
Would you kindly recommend some lube products that you think is worthy to mention? I guess I should be more specific: I live in a wet & cool climate in the NW USA, similar to the British Isles.
There is an excellent video by “FortNine” on this topic.
The best is simple “gear oil” (70-90w) but it can be messy. Otherwise I don’t have a preference - any bike specific spray on is fine with me.
Have you any thought on the pros / cons of automatic chain lubricators such as Scott oilers (other makes are available) ? Thanks for taking the trouble to post your vlogs, I will not be the only one who finds them enjoyable and, if I buy another bike, helpful and encouraging.
C Cooper - I’m not a fan of auto oilers but lots of people are. Auto oilers, no matter how good, will end up oiling lots of stuff as well as the chain - rim, tyre, mudguard etc. which at the very least, looks crappy.
Manually oiling allows you to use lube that doesn’t throw off. It gives a chance to check chain tension, any nuts and bolts that may have come loose, the condition of your wheel bearings.
I’m too anal-retentive to neglect all these things by using a “set and neglect” system like a chain oiler.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Many thanks for the reply, you flag up very good points. Your tip on using a cut plastic bottle, kero and brush to clean the chain will hopefully make me take better care of my chain than I have done in the past.
These chainadjusters are completly misconstructed. The problem is that when you tighten the axle nut on the right sight the chainadjuster on the right side comes out again and the wheel is not straight anymore. So you have to bash it bag with a rubber hammer while you tighten the axle nut. There is a very helpfull tool. It's a little laser and with this you can check whether the wheel is still straight.
Richard - agree. Basic design. But budget bikes have used this system since chains were invented. I can live with it !
Thanks for your video's mate. I bought a bike just like yours a month ago. This is my first bike, so I am a beginner. Your video helps me by giving me the confidence to do maintenance myself. Great stuff.
I have a question. Could you make a video on cleaning the chain, and sprockets please? Do you clean both front and rear sprockets? Thanks again.
Bas Meulen, van der - thanks for the feedback.
Chain cleaning - there are heaps of videos on TH-cam about cleaning the chain. Have a look at these as I have nothing unique to offer.
Honda NC750X Stuff This is true and I did watch quite a few. Most of them however only clean the chain and rear sprocket. So could I ask you whether you remove the cover on the front and clean the front sprocket too? Or is there a reason not to do so?
Bas Meulen, van der - good question. No, I don’t bother cleaning the front sprocket. It only gets cleaned out when it’s time to change the sprocket. But do it if you can be bothered as gunk build up between the engine and chain.
The rear sprocket cleaning is purely cosmetic, but nice to do. The actual sprocket surfaces the chain runs on are always clean because of friction.
Can you confirm, do you loosen the axle nut on the left side as well. The manual only says to loosen the axle nut on the right side. I did not see you tightening the left axle nut in the video, so just wondering. Thank you for all the great vids!
Dante Nel - if the axle turns when you tighted the nut then hold the left of the axle with another spanner. On my bike the axle doesn’t turn when I tighted the nut so I don’t need to hold the axle.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Yup, cleared that bit of confusion up for me. Thank you :)
I dont have a center stand. Will a paddock stand change the measurements of chain slack
Yes. Anything that raises the wheel off the ground will have an effect. Slack is supposed to be measured when on the side stand.
Quick question tge Honda dealer tighten the axel bolt then the 2 chain adjustment screws after does that sound right ?
Shouldn’t be necessary to tighten the adjusters after the axle. This only happens if the person tightening the axle bolt twists the wheel out of alignment while tightening. This tends to leave the right side adjusters loose.
If it’s only a poofteenth loose it’s no problem to just tween up the adjusters.
Great video! Question: I just adjusted chain tension for the first time on my NC700X but now when I spin the wheel while on the centerstand I hear soft clicks coming from the drive sprocket side (like misaligned meshing of the chain and sprocket or something) and I can't remember if that was there before or if I screwed something up! Any thoughts? Tension is to spec (35mm or so) and I checked a hundred times that left and right side are equal. Is this just a new chain and sprocket breaking in or is something horribly misaligned?
Edden Rabin - this tends to be caused by a very worn front sprocket or a worn out chain.
What is the best chain lube for my nc750x 2022? Thankss
The best ? Plain gear oil. But it’s smelly and will fling itself all over your clean bike.
So I compromise and use any brand of “chain wax” spray lube and lube then chain immediately after a ride while the chain is warm.
no, not correct. the sticker on the side says chain slack should be 35mm not MAXIMUM 35 mm because in the manual it says the slack should be 30 to 40mm and 35mm is right on the money and it also says in the manual that you should not drive if the slack is 60mm. thats the danger zone but max35? who told you that? "I just tighten it up until its tight"? what does that mean? ever heard of torque specifications? owners manual has that information and you should tighten it to a spec not until it feels tight to you.
Where can I get an owner's manual?
98 nm , Torque says my manual
So skip his videos and move along man! He states he's been riding for 40 years and never has an issue doing it this way, if you want to do torque specs, do them. I typically do myself, but how many times has a mechanic just tightened the hell out of something with air tools and moved on. Did the car fall apart?
You are exactly right.
Hi. One of the chain adjustment bolt on my used unit is bent. Would you know what dimension bolt I could get to replace it?
So measuring and adjusting is easier on the center stand vs the side stand. Ever had any issues doing it this way?
It’s a personal preference. The chain must be adjusted at its tightest point (you get tight and loose spots as the chain wears). It’s easiest to find this when on the centre stand.
A purest would then mark this point and then put the bike on the side stand to do the adjustment. I don’t bother.
Very helpful!
So you tighten the axel then the nuts on the adjuster
It’s often difficult to bring the axle back tight enough to hold the adjusters firm. This means the adjusters could be left a little loose. So it’s good practice to nip them up tight to be sure.
How can I do this without a centrestand, which I'm told is an optional extra?
Tamaresque - the tension should be done with the back wheel on the ground.
I use a trolley jack to lift Wendy’s back wheel (no centre stand) when oiling the chain.
35mm to ms być na stopkach czy na bocznej .bo jak na centralnych stopkach to będzie za mocno na naciągnięte!!
ok the O rings are holding in permanent grease, why do they themselves need grease?
John Ford - the o rings need to be kept lubricated so they maintain their seal against the link plates and don’t allow water or crap into the links.
this would be my first chain bike. So the o rings need to be kept from dirt and dry rotting and the rest of chain from rusting with some minor cushioning effect where the chain contacts the sprockets. It does not seem that these factors would require much oiling to accomplish. Automatic oilers would seem to be way overkill.
1:08 ...probably the most important note in the video, you can create a lot of damage not doing that ...ask me how I know lol.
I don't understand how screwing the bolt further in, pushes the wheel back? @ 1.55 time.
Geordi La Forge - you screw in the NUT which pulls the bolt back that is attached to the axle.
Screwing the NUT clockwise, pulls the treaded rod back - that is attached to the axle, and pulls it back, tightening the chain.
Hi tutorial change brake pads nc750x please?
thank you!!
matrix8389 - Mate. It will be a long time before I need to change brake pads. I've only done 8,000km on it. I'm not expecting to change rear pads (they are the first to go) till about 40,000km
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff he probably needs to change his pads wants you to show him how to do
You speak with such authority but need to get your facts right. 35mm is not the maximum!!
I'm never sure how much lube to put...
Just enough to lubricate the O rings. But it’s not critical
Wrong! 25mm is too tight!!! When your swing arm is flat (like when you hit a bump) the chain gets tighter so that’s the reason the manual clearly says 30 - 40 mm of slack. Honestly, you should take this video down. Suggesting that 25mm is good when 30mm is the minimum is absolutely horrible on these bikes and absolutely WILL cause damage over the long haul. You may have been lucky, but you are incorrect.
Hopefully you realise TH-cam is an entertainment medium. No one in their right mind would follow advice of some idiot they see on TH-cam.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff hilarious!!