HANMATEK SD1 vs LONOVE 926 CHEAP-O Soldering Stations Review & Teardown!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
- #solderingstation #keepontesting #cheapomultimeters
HANMATEK SD1 vs LONOVE 926 LED III Soldering Station Battle Royale! AMAZON has these kits incredibly well priced, feature packed and full of surprises ! See why the HANMATEK emerges as the winner with a Solid 4/5 STARS!
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I really didn't want to drop over 100 on a soldering iron I'd mainly use for RC stuff. I'm glad you made a Thorough review on these stations.
Glad I could help! Either one of these units should serve you well...😀
@sims_60 OK.. I'll order that unit for review!😀👍
Agreed! When you said old school, like lead solder the Hanmatek melted my heart! Hot stuff!
Well said! I love my leaded solder too!
An overlooked tool for all electronic technicians, hobbyists and DIYers . A cheapo meter can go a long way troubleshooting problems. It takes a device that can remove defective components, rework circuit traces or install new ones---the soldering station is one such tool. I woke up thinking I was going to see another cheap-o meter review; however, you surprised me with this---great review on two such stations that are at a lower price point. I used a plug-in soldering iron (RS) for years before I bought a station. A station gives the user the control that a cheap plug type doesn't give plus a level of safety that the other doesn't give. Besides the higher cost of the Lonove, it had some concerns, such as the switch in back--one could plug it in a power outlet that has a light and power switch. I also don't like the way it's calibrated; I'm not a fan of menu based systems that you have to fiddle with. I think it would be fun to find out over time how the two stations hold up. From the list above, I see the Habotest HT118A is still the best meter for the cheap-o meters. I still think it could be improved--more input protection. I would like to see a meter that gets a 4.8 or better for under $50.00 that is a true cat 3 or cat 4 meter. Keep on testing!!!
Great points! With the low entry cost of many soldering stations available today there's never been a better time to get one. As you reflected, they're generally safer and offer more functionality than a stand alone Iron. I agree I don't like having the on/off switch hidden from view...I never understood the logic to this design choice and from a fundamental engineering perspective its just a "bad" idea! 🤔👍
Forgetting about price I had picked the Hanmatek out of the 2, just looks better and the inside definitely confirmed. Best wishes from Northern Ireland.
Indeed, It's a great deal at this price ! The quality is certainly evident, plus it looks like a soldering station that means business!
It's nice to see more soldering tool reviews on the channel. It's definitely problematic to get a lot of pricey and/or overall bigger equipment like soldering stations. So it's like a cherry on top of sweet-sweet multimeter videos.
I think I'll agree with the popular opinion on HANMATEK being the winner this time. There is just so many things done right in this little station.
I'm currently waiting on my ordered JCD 8898 station. I was actually looking for an inexpensive hot air gun, but hey, it has both air gun and iron. Now I can compare a cheap "blue soldering iron" to an ever so slightly more expensive one. I got it for around $25 with coupons.
The only thing I missed in this video was EMF testing. It may be meaningless, but it was funny when BEST BST-989 station produced an EMF four times stronger than a working microwave.
In the end I must say I've been binge-watching a lot of older content and the quality of editing and sound improved greatly over the years. I'm really excited to see where this channel will go in the future.
Thanks for another great review, sir. And to loosely quote Keanu Reeves on E3 2019: "No you... keep on testing" and we'll keep watching.
Wow..great comment ! I'm glad the channel has improved over time, hopefully it keeps getting better!
The JCD 8898 looks great. I love the fact you can wall mount it as well, very cool!
Shame on me for negating the EMF test...agreed, its always useful to see how these devices perform under such conditions...
I shall continue to Keep on Testing...and as you said, hopefully you will keep on watching !! 😅👍
ON/OFF button located on the back of the LONOVE station (or any other device for that matter) is a design failure. It is not like that button is a feature that you are not going to use that often.
One small drawback to the HANMATEK is that there is no ON light on it. It would have been nice if the ON/OFF
button itself would have a light inside of it. You could than take a quick glance at the station, from a distance, and see if you had forgotten to turn it off. The LED light (heat light) alone does not indicate if the station is OFF.
Thanks for another great review.
Best regards from Iceland
I totally agree the HANMATEK really could use that illuminated rocker switch, safety aside its just a simple upgrade that would help offset the lack of a sleep function so at least you had a visual reminder not to leave Dodge! Cheers to all my viewers from Iceland “Hæ hæ”. 😃👍
@RC CRAWL The switch is not on the power supply board. The power switch is wired between the power board and power cord input. You could place that switch on the front of the unit. It would still be wired the same way, but the wires just little bit longer. That is the way most manufacturers do it, because it makes sense.
Product designers can design products the way they want, it does not mean that the product cannot be criticized.
Why is that a problem? It's super easy to reach and if you have kids it makes it less likely that they will accidentally turn it on.
Nice cheap o solder stations, I like the look and build of that Hanmatek. Yes dross is a real word and a real thing. It’s the impurities the come from the soldering. If you have ever used a solder pot to remove a big through hole connector then you would need to de dross the solder pot, scrap away the impurities from the top of the molten solder. Nice review👏🏻👍
Dang and I thought it was a CHEAP-O TYPO! Thanks for the clarification 👍 Definitely makes sense..dross is gross 😝 nice to have the metal backplate to catch all the nasties !
Just received my lonove one tonight with the sponge and the 2 alligator arm, 5 tips, at a great deal, I'm totally noob on soldering so I bought it for that cheap price, the 2 arm and the digital temperature.
I just hope that will be perfect for my future needs ... I will try to repair old electronic but first I need to learn how to solder.
Thanks for those videos
Great Purchase! The soldering station should be a great 👍 tool for your introduction to soldering 😉👍
Doing something different is amazing
Why thank you! 👍
Very good video. I am looking for a soldering station and your video going thru the options helped. Thank you.
Glad to hear it! There's some really great soldering options these days!😀
Another fantastic video, great job. I'm looking out for a good solder station so I'll definitely be watching this space!
Thanks so much Kunle.. Btw, let me know when your tester arrives!😀
@@KeepOnTesting I definitely will, I'll send pics too. Still a no show for now
I have the Hanmatek SD1. At first I didn't like it and actually picked up a Quecoo T12 956 but now I'm back to it. The T12 blade is too narrow for big components but heats up fast! I do have to crank SD1 up to 370. But I'm going to put it back on the bench.
It's a good unit despite its quirks. I've used it on and off the past year and it never disappoints. 👍
18:00 "stick in the hole and twist it.." oh my God i'll buy that Hanmatek soldering iron right now!! 🤣🤣🤣
joke aside, if you do soldering pretty often, the on-off switch position on Hanmatek will help alot.
turn it on, do some soldering, turn it back off. you won't be lazy if the button is easy to reach.. 😉
SOLD!I Yes, I never could understand why they would hide the power switch in the back ...😅 Imagine if a cars ignition switch was in the trunk...sigh 🤪
@@KeepOnTesting 😂😂
Thanks for detailed teardown and expertise.
Cheers my friend 👍
Hi Darren!... We Want more videos on soldering rework stations... 🙂😍
I hear ya! More on the way..😄👍
This is cool you should do more videos on soldering stations reviews & teardown. I'm going with Hanmatek SD1. Great video!
Thanks Muxall..more on the way 😁
Thanks for the video, I learned something! ❤️
Just received one of these as a gift, it came with all the accesories, box WAS NOT packed carefully, not even taped closed but it survived intact from Amazon 😊
(Have not yet fired it up)
Great stuff ! Glad it survived the journey 😀👍 Let us know your first impressions once you've had a chance to use it!
The heat up time can't be 10s (at best you might get above 20s to 350-400c) for this sort of a system because the actual bottlenecks are the heatransfer to the tip and the late responding control loop caued due to that.
Hi Darren Thanks for the review. You should check T12, SH72 or TS-100 Stations/Portables. These are much closer to your Pace- in terms of Performance, not price :)
Thx Deter ..I'll be reviewing a couple of those next month!👍
The cal pot on the Hanmatek is right next to mains power on the PCB; a bit dangerous to stick something -metal- conductive in the hole while it's plugged in, no?
No worries here..its a tiny calibration hole which requires a precision screwdriver. Its also protected by a stopper/gaurd that encompasses the entire canopy so you don't end up glowing in the dark 😁
Aha! An intriguing change of pace. Cool! (what did you do to the back of your hand?) The HANMATEK SD1 is my kind of solder station! I totally surprised. Thanks, Darren.
Hey Hal! Sorry, I should've had a bandaid..a little burn 🔥 on the job !
Yes, its a pretty nice station all things considered.. absolutely worth the price of admission! 😇
A clean tip is a happy tip.
But you got a nice manual with the hanmatek
True enough. 👍
The iron on the SD1 is no longer heating (I think it may have been dropped). Do you know where I can get a replacement element or handle?
Send me an email: netplicity1@gmail.com
I cannot find ceramic replacement elements for the hanmatek, any suggestions?
Firstly, why don't equipment reviewers open up the irons and show us the heating element and circuit board inside? A little more detective work as to who makes the heating element would be helpful for prospective purchasers so that they know where to obtained parts, or entire replacement irons, should the element fail; these off-brand soldering stations never sell parts directly to customers.
Also, both units have switching power supplies; no power transformer means there's less electrical isolation between the incoming AC and the tip. Some inexpensive digital irons with switching supplies (especially the T12 type) have been shown to have voltage leaking onto and present at the tip, and it would have been instructive to measure the tip's voltage potential on these units if it was accidentally ungrounded by a bad electrical outlet or use of an extension cord or whatever. (It's not uncommon for reviewers who dig a little deeper into the construction and design to discover that sometimes the switch or fuse has been installed into the neutral line instead of the hot line). Of course, manufacturers love switching supplies because they're cheap and they weigh next to nothing, which cuts down on shipping and packaging cost, and they allow you to design a product that will work on anything from 100 to 240 V which means you don't have to manufacture special export models for other countries ---- but they're a particularly bad design for anything with exposed metal parts that get actually handled by people, and of course switching supplies beat the hell out of the capacitors and therefore power-supply failure rates are high. Not to mention that adding another device that throws out tons of RF noise into an environment where you are working on sensitive electronics is never a good thing.
One last thing: the provided tip or tips are invariably made of solid iron or steel, not copper (easily verified with a magnet, as I do in a video posted on my channel) and therefore have poor thermal transfer characteristics. Using genuine Hakko copper tips on a "clone" iron usually provides better performance, not only because of the copper base metal but also because of the relatively large large air gap typically found that between the heating elements and the tips on these cheap soldering irons. The diameter of the ceramic heating elements might be a little bit undersized, and the knock-off steel tips often have a hole that's about 4.3 to 4.4 mm; Measure the elements and the inside diameter of the tips with calibers to see how large the gap is and it will indicate whether or not you have an efficient thermal transfer taking place.
I assume you guys have Harbor Freight stores in Canada? They sell a $45 US Schneider branded soldering station here in the States that is a really good deal: it has a built-in power transformer, a sturdy little circuit board ( nicely made), the wand attaches via a high-quality GX16 screw-on connector (7 pin), includes a calibration trimmer, and works well. I reviewed and did a tear down of the station, and the iron (I drew up a wiring diagram), on my channel; I suspect it's made by Yihua and I am trying to find a source for replacement irons or heating elements, since Harbor Freight doesn't sell any parts separately or include a source for them. The 3 tips included are iron, and conical, which I hate, but they're standard T 900 or 900 M and easily replaceable; The only real drawback to it is the stiff, heavy and non heat resistant cable to the wand, but that could be swapped out for a silicone cable if somebody has a second soldering iron to work with. I was so impressed by it for the price that I bought their fancier Schneider digital station ($120 US) which I haven't had a chance to really play with yet, but I opened it up and it turns out to be a rebranded ATTEN ST80. It has a power transformer, a flexible, longer, heat resistant cable to the wand (although with a 5 pin molded plastic DIN plug, ugh), presets for preferred temperature settings, auto sleep and standby functions (user adjustable) and a reasonably user-friendly interface for programming (unlike the new one knob, one button Hakko FX888DX, ugh). I'll post a review and teardown of it when I get a chance.......
I actually have opened and done teardowns on irons. I just don't do it in every single review. There are no Harbor Freight stores in Canada. Lucky for me,I'm only 45min drive to the NY state border which has a big HF store in the first town. I'll check out those stations you've mentioned. HF does seem to have some diamonds in the rough! Great and informative feedback 👍
You forgot an important information: the iron are powered by mains voltage or alt low voltage?
Years ago I bought at LIDL ( German chain of food stores here in Europe)an unit similar tho the Hanmateck, for the sum of 10 Ten Euros
The controller was a basic TRIAC dimmer circuit used to change mains voltage to the iron. There was no form of temperature control
Only power control. Another unusual thing were the iron tips, which were fitted to the iron by a screw, that was part of the tip. Never found a replacement tip..
I mentioned the units were controlled by a microprocessor. The PID controller is utilized for precise temperature adjustment..the sensor (thermocouple) is located in the soldering iron tip.
Weller sells a similar red-case soldering station, with an AC mains operated iron and an electronic light dimmer inside the station, with no temperature sensing or feedback. A piece of junk for $65 at home dumpo! Harbor Freight sells a much better temperature controlled station for just $45. I posted a review and teardown of it on my channel.
Can you do a comparison between the UNI-T 202A+ and the MESTEK CM81 ?
They're both clamp meters and both well known in my country so I was thinking which ones is better in terms of longevity and durability
I will try my best! 😀
I love it
Darren, what tips does the lenovo 936 take?
Standard 900M tips 😊 amzn.to/41aWyqq
@@KeepOnTesting Legend, Thank you
Does anyone know what type of heating element the Lonove uses? Mine has broken and the Amazon seller claims they don't do replacements.
Its ceramic. You should be able to replace it easily. Just unscrew the tip like you're changing it and the ceramic piece that goes down the middle and into the tip may be all that needs replaced. If it is in fact just the element.
Hanmatek def has better build, just wish it had the digital display.
Hi i'm a pretty new to soldering, i was looking at the Hanmatek SD2, which has a digital display and comes with extra tips, running around $70 CAD. My question is do i really need to calibrate it? i will be soldering and de-soldering speaker wires and keyboards. If anyone also wants to suggest any extra equipment and if i should be using leaded or unleaded solder that would be great!
Calibration isn't necessary if you're not soldering smd components..in your case you should be just fine. I use leaded solder 95% of the time but YMMV. Non leaded requires higher Temps. Make sure to get some Flux as it really helps soldering/desoldering ..jystxa little goes a long way. Also, tips are primo! Make sure you use the right tip for the job.
Welcome to the soldering club.. it's actually alot of fun and don't worry.. practice makes perfect..😄👍
@@KeepOnTesting Awesome thank you for getting back to me! I am a little stuck, i used a cheap $30 kit on amazon and was not able to melt the solder enough to use a solder sucker. The iron was set to 400C and i waited about 10 minutes to heat. i am able to melt the solder after 5 ish seconds but it does not bubble like i have seen on tutorials so that i can use a solder sucker. This is why i am getting the SD2. Do you think i should add flux to melt it or will a better iron do the trick. Also considering using a wick instead. Thanks!
@@MattsSoul17 I think the SD2 is a great choice. It will definitely help your soldering and having a "station" can really help you to concentrate on the task at hand. Get the Flux, it really is a helpful addition to any soldering job. I use combination of soldering sucker and wick. Although I really have become a fan of the sucker! Unleaded soldering requires higher heat 🔥so take that into consideration as well. 👍
@@MattsSoul17 Let us know how you like the SD2!
I'm a shallow person, I like a pretty digital display.
You shallow thing you..😉👍 Digital displays are definitely nice!
That's why everything sucks and doesn't last, mechanical controls last 10 times longer
@@ericschulze5641, if the budget is $80 or less, skip the digital display and buy "analog". You can buy a surprisingly good adjustable, temperature controlled soldering station for just $45 ftom Harbor Freight (I posted a review and teardown on my channel). By contrast, the new Hakko FX888DX digital station looks nice and is only $120 but the single knob for all memory and programming functions is a royal pain to use. I'd pass on that one.
11:11 the station is already heated to 310°C or is it cold?
That was a cold start. 👍
@@KeepOnTesting okay thanks..
Lack of sleep mode is the deal breaker for my A.D.D. brain.
Which one? ut39c+ or ut136b+
If you're good with a non autoranging multimeter then the UT39C+ is the clear winner...more features including the visual continuity indicator..!
@@KeepOnTesting what about ut89x? 5$ more expensive than ut39c+
@@seal7118 UT89X definitely another great multimeter..I prefer the UT89XD definitely a step up !
@@KeepOnTesting Thank you
@@seal7118 Let us know whatever model you end up getting..they are all very good. Sometimes we have too many choices in the CHEAP-O realm 🤪
Why didnt you get Hanmatek SD2?
Unavailable at the time. Identical starion, just digital instead of analog.
Like Hanmatek than Lenova
Seriously 🔥🌡️🔥
How can a 24v 60W solderstation have a 2A fuse, my Miniware TS100 that is 65 W, can easily do 3+ Amp, so strange they use a 2 amp fuse.