CR-10 with Direct Extruder - Install an E3D Titan Aero for more productivity
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2018
- I'm showing you how you can install an E3D Titan Aero on your CR-10. This allows you to print faster and with bigger nozzles and even improving your print quality!
Buy a CR-10S on GEARBEST: goo.gl/GBjEJW
Buy the CR-10S on AMAZON: geni.us/rVBsR
Things you need to print before:
Mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Cable support: www.thingiverse.com/thing:246...
Distance spacer: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Fan shroud and holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Flash a bootloader and custom Marlin on your CR-10: • CR-10 UPGRADE - GUIDE ...
E3D Titan Aero Extruder: e3d-online.com/titan-aero-bui...
NEMA 17 heatsink: geni.us/hSnNA
Simplify 3D printing profile: github.com/CNCKitchen/CR-10-m...
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I just put one of these together today. The first time I put it together, I had the same binding issue described here when i tightened the screws on the outer heatsink cover. I realized that it was simply a problem with the drive gear not located close enough to the extruder stepper motor (on the shaft) I moved it in as far as possible without allowing it to rub on the face of the motor. That gave more clearance between the gear, the spring tensioner and the outer heatsink cover where the shaft rides on the end. Now I can tighten all the screws with zero binding. The gear spins easily by hand and feels nice and free. i hope this helps others.
Another extruder that might be worth checking out is the zesty nimble, or the zesty sidewinder. It has the advantages of direct drive, but moves the stepper motor off of the carriage so that you can have a lot less mass to move.
The guys over at zesty are quite helpful, too, in case you have issues or questions. If you get one of those, it would be neat to see a video on. I don't think that I have yet seen any of the other big 3d printer guys on youtube do a video on it yet.
The local 3D print shop (so lucky to have MakerTree 3D in Dallas) sold me a Titan extruder, E3D v6, and Volcano heater block. It's a little more weight than the Aero, but after seeing the issues with the Aero, I'm glad I listened to them. When the Aero is updated to fix these problems, then it will be the perfect combo for the CR-10, though.
Thank you so much for both videos, when I had a terrible misprint and the stock heater block broke I thought i was screwed especially with a project due soon, however your video was a great solution that has worked so far,(no pancake stepper on my aero).
You are headed places man! Keep on learning and doing!
Sweet cr-10 setup! I'll have to give it a try.
You should try replacing the bearings in the wheels. I did this on a tevo tornado and it improved PrintQuality in addition to replacing the idler-bearings with geared idlers a huge ammount. I will also exchange the original belts in the next future with higher quality ones. Greetings from Germany near Karlsruhe.
Thanks A LOT ! At 1:08 I finally understood why I am getting those pimples when printing thick layers (.3mm high with .4mm nozzle). As feeding debit and displacement speed are high, delay due to elasticity of the filament is predominant and fiddling with retraction does not help... On the other hand the direct extruder reduces the characteristic time of filament elastic delay...
Why is it that people freak out about adding a bit of weight to the hot end but don't care about adding weight to the bed?
Very nice video as always. I've considered jumping up to larger nozzles, for the same reasons you mentioned. I find myself printing large masks and props, the decreased print times would be great.
Dr Vax did some reviews using a 1mm nozzle to get faster print times.
works really well, none of the fan mounts worked for me, i'm using the stock stepper motor and a zip tie worked fine to pull the fan up and hold it in place properly.
much better than the mount i had originally that was installed by the previous owner, flipped the whole setup 180 degrees and solved a few problems and gave back a lot of space, only had to offset x-2 y-10! :D
Good video I have the CR10S Pro and am looking at this upgrade for better Carbon Fiber Filament print quality, not worried about speed yet. Quality is King. Good Job, Dennis
That was the first thing I thought of while watching you wiggle the Carriage, I thought about upgrading it to a Linear Rail. I have a GEEETech A30 and have thought about swapping out the X rail for a Linear Rail. Seeing as mine is virtually a clone of the CR-10 and as about the same amount of play in the carriage.
P.S I'd also install some Anti-Backlash nuts also, mine already came with the anti-backlash already built on, clearly, you know what you are doing, so it should be really easy to do.
You. I like you. Every video you make get me closer to buying a CR10 of my own.
What is the weight of the extruder + hotend ?
Honestly, I don't know at the moment. Need to put it on a scale tomorrow!
on my own*
CNC Kitchen When you used the .4mm nozzle, were you using the volcano or not?
I did but you would probably be better off using a normal Hotend.
Im using the bondtech bmg with a volcano heater block and 1.2mm nozzle on the cr10. Works great at 0.8mm layer height. It's gives a very fast print times with a nice texture.
I'm running an AERO since 3 months without an issue so far. I guess it has pushed about 4 kg of filament through the nozzle. I can definitely recommend upgrading to this extrusion system.
Yes but it's realy heavy
00:45 : a direct extruder does not only relate to the motor location on the printer frame. Gears / pinions are also part of the equation. As soon as the gears pushing/pulling filament are located on the X carriage and very close to the hotend, it's a direct extruder. Which can be either direct drive (gears attached to the motor shaft ; I call this setup "full-direct") or remote motor/remote direct (like Zesty Nimble, for instance).
About Zesty Nimble, as it was mentioned earlier, it can be an great option, making the X-carriage very light while keeping the direct extrusion advantages. Or you could, say, try some kind of knock-off like BMG Aero on A*iex*ress ?
Linear rails ... Well ... Why not. It all depends, since not all linear rails are the same. Maybe some MGN12C/H rails might deserve a try. Original are not cheap, yet worth every penny IMHO for very smooth linear motion.
Thanks for the honest review of the e3d. I've been waiting for this one before buying an aero. I wonder how the knockoffs are.
99% sure that they are probably not better. I'm especially worried about the idler arm. E3D use (I guess) an IGUS polymer, knockoff is probably ABS or similar. The E3D is definitely not horrible, you just need to watch out for some things.
@@CNCKitchen I want to print polycarbonate on my ender 3 , I have decided to get an original e3d V6 hotend and a clone of Direct drive titan extruder, what do you think of it? Will that setup work?
I've been running an aero/Titan since they both came out and the bearings are an issue. I reported my experience to E3D and they plan on replacing with bushings in the near future.
Thank you not really sure what caused the cloging issue im int wasnt the bolt i left it loose till i knew it wasnt binding im leaning toward to high on the retraction and the filiment is carbon filled pla kinda brittle and the hot end was running to cold i got new thermistors and its great now the final esteps after several meters of filament testing was 401.5 the stock motor ran slightly hot after a 17 hr flawless print no power tweek needed on the extruder stepper so far
I haven’t heard of others having the same issues with the aero. I just found out that one of the bearings on mine is kaput, would explain a few things.
There are some others who posted their issues on the wiki: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Answers/View/8/New+AERO%2C+click+click+clicking
Interesting, i had bearings fail on both my 2 Titan extruders as well.
It definitely sounds like a design flaw.
I don't have a cr10 but I am building a prusa right now and I have been looking at different extruder designs. Right now I am thinking of using the J-Max from Thingiverse in a Bowden set up.
You should try the DropEffect v2 or v1 direct extruder. I’ve been very happy with mine and I have retrofitted them on an IDEX machine. Absolutely no shadowing at all. They run on a linear rail.
Really nice video. How did you find which black wire from the extruder goes with the nema colored wire?
Put the old and the new stepper next to each other facing in the same direction. Then snip off one (black) wire from the old stepper and just make sure to which color that corresponds on the new stepper. Solder them together and do the same for the next black wire.
Thanks for the answer. For those how are more visual www.crforums.com/showthread.php/109-Titan-Aero-Change-Stepper-Motor
Nice write up. I don't know if it will be a problem or not, but I'm not sure if soldering the splice for the heater wires was the best idea. High current splices should really be crimped (as long as you are able to do a proper crimp).
You're definitely right there!
Thanks for this - I have a V6 on my CR10 and it works ok, just impossible to print petg (cloggin). I was considering upgrading to the aero, but this looks like long down time even though I have flashed the firmware. Thanks for the honest warnings.
Where did you find settings/profiles to print with =
Locktite can effect most plastics so I would use an alternative method. Research into this if you are thinking of doing this yourself.
Maybe you could try to setup a carriage base on the igus Q20. That would be an interesting experiment!
Great video. I have ordered e CR-10S and will be doing a Titan Aero setup. Would you mind sharing your Simplify 3d profile? I have done a Titan Aero on my other DIY printer, but I'd prefer to look at your settings since you already have it working. I will be using a very similar setup. I love the Titan Aero extruder, it works very well.
I used the stock CR-10 profile in Simplify3D and only reduced retraction to about 1mm.
Excellent, thanks for the info.
Dear Stefan,
the z-axis bolts were loose in my cr-10 too. I've tightened them too, but this is a mistake. They are loose for a purpose. The surface where they are bolted is not flat with the spindle nut. When tightening, the z-spindle does not turn easy. The solution is to fill out the gap at one side with paper, then the spindle nut can't go out of direction.
Thank you for the information.
I'm looking foreward to get my E3D Titan, thanks for the good idea. Marlin has been updated already, and today I've found a trick to compensate the lost space because the bigger y-offset. I've removed the orginal belt tensioner that limits the movement, and printed onde attached to the front of the frame. Adding tension is just possible with an spacer, but I gain 24 mm of y+ travel.
Tons of problems with that bearing. I replaced mine with higher quality parts and loosening the the top right bolt as well. I ma testing the new bearings sometiem this month
Well a linear rail would help. For me tho replaceing the belts made a huge impact against ringing. Ive used a propper belt with steel fibres and this almost eliminated it completly. As you can even see in the video the movement also occures, tho not as badly, in the aluminum extrusion. So if you follow that path you will have to likely also stiffen that up. I guess it would be a nice project for a video but i am not sure how much it would improve the quality in the end.
I also think, the torsional occilation you showed is not really a problem since this axis isnt even moving in the direction. If everything is build correctly the only force should be perpendicular so it should not move at all. Like i stated above. I think for chinese printers the best thing to eliminate ringing is in my experience to replace the belt. If you have enough space even go for a wider belt like a 10mm one instead of 6mm
Thank's for the info. I need to buy some brand name belts and try that out!
Can you recommend a belt? Do I have to change the linear motion settings if I change the beltsystem?
Changed my y-axis to linear rails on my CR-10s S5. Those plastic roles are not good for the big bed. Thinking about changing x-axis to linear as well.
I user gates belts. www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Long-Length-PowerGrip-GT2-Belting-c1045.htm It depends if you have to change the settings. I went for steel core belts however that is a bad idea with 16 or 20 tooth pullys. They will break the steel fibres in the belt so I changed them to a 60tooth pulley and also changed the steppers to 400 steps/ rev to keep up the accuracy. However if you use fibreglass cords you can just replace the pulleys with wider ones (but same tooth count) and the belt and you are good to go. No changeing required.
Thank you for your fast answer.
Wolcano gets a thumbs up. Btw good vid thanks.
Hi, Stefan! I also recently upgraded to a Titan Aero, but I have a different issue: stepper doesn't lose steps, but the gear eats up the filament very quick, except if I set the spring to such a high tension that i can baerly even tighten by hand. Did you experience something like that?
nice piece of work.
Do you recall the type/brand of filament was the bracket made @ 6:27 is? Same as Benchy
I'm planning to change the default extruder on my ender 3 pro, with a copy of titan aero.
Is it a good idea?
microswiss 300kit u should try its been fantastic
What other settings/adjustments did you make to reduce ghosting, without adding the anti vibration braces to the CR10?
Were did you purchase your fan?
I never hear people talking about the fact that stepper motor weight is probably a lot less than heated bed+carriage+glass system on the y axis. I feel like adding a stepper motor won't affect overall ringing/ oscillation because that ringing is already happening, at least in one axis
Hi Stephan! Great video, i've just installed a volcando with bowden on my cr10.
Im looking for information about how to instal the pt100 temp sensor on cr10.
I've the e3d amplification board, but i don't find info about hot is it wired in the motherboard, and what changes in marlon i have to do.
Can you share us how did you installed the pt100? Video or link about the process?
Thanks! From Barcelona
I have a PT100 somewhere in my shelf but never used it since I currently don't use any materials where I need to crank the temperature that high up. Check the E3D wiki, it might answer some of your questions.
I'm so confused if I should go direct drive or keep my bowden! I want to buy a volcano to print armor fast with PETG. If I go direct, I have better retraction but have to slow down, if I keep the bowden, retraction is a little harder but still managable and will be faster. What do you think? I have a large Chiron and want to make best use of it.
For the volcano hot end, do you need to buy just the different heater block and nozzle? Or do you need different wires?
i have a cr10s and have just installed the aero titan with a volcano and im using a different mount as urs. ive downloaded ur fireware version but i noticed its not working. so the question is what do i need to change that it will work with the cr10s and where do i set the offset for the new mount i have? i would really appreciate any help on this. ive been working on this upgrade since over 20 hours and im going nuts :( but im learning a lot and ur videos are great. keep it up
Why is it not working? You can follow this guide and configure marlin on your own: printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-6-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling
You will need to change the esteps (~800 on mine) and probably invert the extruder direction. (#define INVERT_E0_DIR false) Offset is defined here: #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -10
Hope that helps!
thx that helped.
Sweet, as I want the ability to print 0.8 to 1.2mm which the volcano does. I was reading about linear rails with blocks on extrusion and the manufacturers say that is a nono. We can get 3mm and 5mm t-nuts but how about the 3.5 and 6mm the rails require? Nope.
bondtech's bmg has the same 1:3 gear reduction ratio, but is a WAY better implementation than e3d's (especially since it's using their dual interlocked drive gear). it's also way pricier than the e3d, but you can get their interlocked driving gears and design your own extruder variant, like josef prusa' team did.
regarding acceleration and vibration, and the whole linear rails thing - i have been using linear rails (mgn12) for a few years now and i can definitely vouch for a marked improvement over the whole v-slot/wheels combo. but i'll also share an interesting tidbit a lot of companies miss and improved my print quality by a big margin. the gt2 belt is used with the teeth on a smooth idler. that is a major source of increased vibrations (as is visible in your video) - if you read the gt2 belt specification you will notice that for the 2mm tooth variant a diameter of a 40 tooth pulley is recommended for the teeth running on a smooth pulley (~25mm diameter). i took another route and designed an inverted path for a 2020 extrusion - the improvement is amazing even running @100mm/s with 3500mm/s^2 acceleration (i'll add a photo in another comment). you can check out my design here (i'm still importing it from fusion360) cad.onshape.com/documents/36c1465c08b9d4c208e2362d/w/01b1f3686794f9ff6c835260/e/e4d69646ce590cb53449ede3
imagebin.ca/v/3ot2s1c9D1Ex
25mm long food bag clip - printed at 100mm/s with 3500mm/s^2 acceleration, it was printed on the x axis - and as you can see completely smooth, no visible belt or otherwise vibrations. it was printed with the e3d titan (not aero) as a direct drive with a full metal e3d v6 hotend.
Impressive and clean design! I need to order a linear rail soon and see if I find the time to try out your design.
Nice speeds and results, but as for the rippling you would get it on corners not on a straight line. Do you perhaps have a calibration cube printed at these speeds (and accelerations)? Could you pleaes share the article/guide/manual that you've mentioned, about using a toothless idler as a recommendation for a GT2 belt?
Nice design! Good point you make there on the tooth-belt generating vibrations and good idea to invert it to get rid of vibrations from the teeth. Ringing effects caused by inertia though (eg after a sharp corner) can not entirely be addressed by a smoothly running belt IMO, but it surprises me to hear that a real difference is noticeable when inverting the belt.
What? You have eliminated ghosts by reversing the GT-2 timing belt???
Can you elaborate more on this? pulley size, and so on.
Thanks
well done, i made the uptade to a tronxy x5s the only part that i don't like is the lineal rayls of the x :P
Hallo steffan, ich habe mir schon einige deiner videos abegesehen und die idee mit den linearführungen auf einem cr10 hatte ich auch schon ;) ich habe mir vor kurzem einen gekauft und habe ebenfalls vor ihn um zu bauen auf linearführungen, kugelumlaufspindeln und einen rahmen mit 30x30mm profil ;) ich bin gespannt was du mit deinem cr10 weiter anstellen wirst! :)
Wut?
fancy solderstation. what model is it and where can i purchase one?
Hi Stefan, I considered making this upgrade, but ultimately landed on using the Bondtech BMG with the V6+Volcano, instead of the titan Aero. I'm sure a lot of people are weighing the same options, so I would be very curious to compare results on a torture test. Do you have any photos of models you have made with this rig, which I can try myself? Thanks for the great content.
Wish I would have seen this when you posted it. The Titan Aero is not very good.
Hotend sock helps with temperature variations
You had mentioned that you would be cutting the wires for the thermistor but didn't really talk much about it after that. Was there anything extra you had to do (aside from firmware changes maybe) to go from the glass bulb thermistor to I assume the E3D cartridge thermistor?
The new cartridge style thermistor can directly replace the old glass bead one. You only have to change thermistor type in the firmware (5 instead of 5 as far as I remember).
Thanks!
Thanks for that video! What's that big black part that you're printing?
Do you want to guess :P Might be part of a cosplay item....
I apologize in advance for my rudeness, but where are the print profile links you mentioned at 9:28? Thanks in advance :)
You could of used some auto climp connectors and solder.them for quick change out of heads. Only a idea. Works for my CR10.
Really enjoyed the comments about auto-bed leveling just being an excuse for not performing proper bed leveling first place and will use this as reference as on my channel as I agree with you 100% Cheers and keep up the great work :-)
I finally retired my reprap printer as it cost me over 1500 hours and I could never ever get the stupid thing to print right even with a ton of new parts and redesigning. I put ABL on it and it made it even worse. I have no idea, nor anyone who has seen that printer over the last 4.5 years, why if you get it to print right it will lose its level by the next print. Everything on that printer is new and still the same issue but my Qidi Tech 1 I have never had that issue with.
DIY3DTECH.com Sure. As central heating is just an excuse for being to lazy to maintain a proper fire.
for real though. Running 4 to 5 printers at once between home and work, ABL systems like Prusa's PINDA and the BLTouch has been a life saver. Its ok though, this is just an old-school mentality. Kinda like the one people had with computers.
I use a BL-touch on my Ender 3 printer, but only so that I can use the 25-point mesh output to know where to place or remove spacing material underneath my glass to get a low deviation from the zero point across the sheet. It's manual bed leveling, but with more information to adjust with and lets me easily know exactly where to place the spacing material and how much to place. It's like having a dial indicator strapped to the print head at all times. Really handy.
For why I mentioned, the build platform for my bed isn't a flat surface. The corners can all be the same distance from the nozzle, but when the bed topography resembles a mountain range with peaks of up to 0.2mm from the next lowest valley, having a physical ABL sensor like BL-touch that can output a mesh which you can then use to know where to place spacing material under your glass really really helps. If you have a perfectly flat build surface, then just use standard leveling practices. For me, the 40$ I spent on a BL-touch was less than the cost of a comparable replacement heated platform which I wouldn't even be able to guarantee it had a smoother surface than my current one.
Have you had any issues with the firmware between a CR-10S500 and the E3DV6 Titan Aero?
How different would this be for the CR-10 V2? I just bought the Titan Aero E3d V6 setup...but having trouble finding what I might need to print to make it work.
Thanks for sharing
E3D just released a blog post about the bearing problem:
e3d-online.com/blog/2018/01/22/bearinggate/
I highly appreciate their honesty and that they are actively and openly working on their problems! Support these guys, since they are the once who help bringing 3D printing forward!
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I was going to mention this to you...I have an Aero and get some weird skipped steps too
This is another great reason to support them and not the clones.
CNC Kitchen thank you
CNC Kitchen Stefan, can the this configuration also be used for 0.4 or even 0.2 mm nozzles?
is this 12v or 24v? Thanks. Great video!
CR10 so 12V.
12v
dumb idea, but hear me out: Moarstruder?
is it even possible? or would it be too heavy?
Subbed!!
Hi Stephan! Did you loose any of X-axis print volume? As CR10 is similiar to Ender 3, I have a plan to use your bracket and E3D in my Ender, so wondering if I will loose any of my 230 milimeter of print volume :P Best wishes from Poland.
Doesn't limit the X-axis on the CR-10 so I suspects it's going to be the same on the Ender 3.
Could you do a tutorial on how to install the Titan onto an Ender 3 by any chance?
its the same thing...just be sure you get 24v
Hello stephan got the titan aero working on the cr10s sortaIm wondering the pancake motor that you use is it different than the stock cr10s extruder stepper you state 803 esteps mine is around 400 -405 all seems well but my last print stoped extruding about 3 hours into the print Strange it didnt seem cloged with a couple turns of the big gear it started again also my thermistor is wrong by 14 degrees c i performed the pid hotend calibration twice i tested it with a laser thermal gague the bed is within 1.5 degrees c ???
You might have an 1.8° stepper. Mine is 0.9° so I need double the steps for 360°. Mine is working fine now, check your bearing and also consider increasing the PSU voltage. Upped mine to 14V which helped a lot with temperature stability. PID will not fix you temperature, only the temperature stability. Hotends are commonly off, so just find the temperature that works the best for you. Doesn't matter in the end, what "real" temperature that is.
Did you need to replace the stock cr10 heat sink?
Do the linear upgrade 👍
I use my ABL sensor to just very precisely level the bed (Bed Visualizer). Leveling with the paper has way too much guess work. Also... why solder and not just replace it on the board? Also Also, why not reconfigure the current in the firmware?
I am not sure if the weight of a direct xtruder really matters in combination of a large scale heatbed with a heavy glas on it. So I think that there are no benefits having a lightweight bowden extruder (x axis) in combination with a heavy print bed (y axis) like the CR-10. What do you think?
I guess you are partly right, since the Y axis is definitely really heavy. The problem with the extruder ist, that it's COG is further away and at a bad position in relation to the linear guide why you get these resonance problems. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Hi have you any experience with linear rails for the cr10 ?
Hallo Stefan,ich habe einen CR 10 den ich jetzt auf direct extruder mit dem E3d v6 hotend umrüsten will.Eine dementsprechende Halterung habe ich schon gezeichnet, aber ich brauche einen kleineren bzw. leichteren Motor. Deshalb meine Frage: müsste man die Firmware ändern um einen anderen (kleineren) Nema 17 Motor einzubauen? Mit freundlichen Grüßen,Simon
Firmware brauchst Du nicht unbedingt ändern. Wenn die Drehrichtung gleichbleibt reicht es im Normalfall die steps/mm zu ändern.
Great Video,We'll done..
When you printed the mounting bracket, what did you print it out of? PLA? or something different?
Printed it in ABS.
Hello stephen what did you change in marlin 1.16 regards to the firmware ie can you do a video on this subject mine is not the melzy board it is cr10s ramps 14 board ive already up my fw to 1.17 its true its all in the extruder/hotend love my cr10s just not the stock hot end bowden setup
I guess it was only homing position, esteps/mm and e-axis inversion. I also upped the max accelerations a bit to get faster infill.
Thank you
where are the print profiles? am I dumb or did you forgot to put them in the description?
Question, are you still using the single Z and if yes are you seeing additional sag with extra weight?
Yes I do still have a single Z axis. Didn't notice anything bad so far but this might be a point to check!
Hi Stefan, have you ever considered feeding a printer extruder directly from the filawinder?
Mike
How about instead of using linear rails, add a second 20x20 extrusion parallel, on the same Z height, so that the extruder is between them? Fits a cheap printer like this much better I think.
Linear rail I am soure it will make alot better. I have bought some cheap chinese and will use it on my new printer. Hope for the best.
Do you have any coupons for the base model cr10 to go with the affiliate links ?
11CR10EU or 11CR10US should give you a discount here: goo.gl/P28kDP
Have fun with it!
Good job. It is possible with a Bl Touch ?
Yes, but it requires some more modifications.
I am thinking on upgrading my cr10 s5 to supervolcano. What are your thoughts?
Jake Lazar
this was a great upgrade. on a part related issue my motors failed on me does anyone have the part id numbers my nephew unfortunately threw away the packaging so i cannot find any part information online
(Almost) any NEMA17 1.8° stepper should work.
Thank you
It also looks like my bearing in the titan extruder are rusting, have u noticed that on urs and is it a problem? More friction can't be good
Same on mine. I put lots of grease on it now. Take a look at the E3D blog post where they also talk about that and send them a mail, they probably will have replacements for you.
greaaat job !!!!
Very good and honest video. I have also upgraded my CR-10 S5 (500x500x500 mm) with a Titan Aero Extruder and i ran into the exact same problems. When tightening the bolts that fix the Titan assembly my slimline (pancake) motor skipped steps too. I mentioned this problem to E3D and I received their "compact but powerful" steppermotor. However the problem still existed after that and me too ended up not tightening the bolts at all, resulting in a rather un-sturdy assembly. I have also created a Titan Aero bracket for the CR-10 and you can download it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755616 The difference with your bracket is that it is made out of one piece (and supports an inductive sensor) and it uses the 3 bolts from the wheels to fix it to the base plate of the X-carriage. My first iteration of the bracket also used the bolts of the original extruder for fixation to the base plate, but i noticed that this fixation leaved to be desired. When using the wheel bolts the fixation of the base plate is way more rigid. I love your video and thank you for your effort and time. I agree it is a rather complex upgrade, but it is certainly worth the time because after this upgrade, printing is really fast (using the Vulcano hotend) and by decreasing the jerk settings, the ringing effect can be dimmed down quit a lot, resulting in fast prints (50-70% time - reduction) with very acceptable quality. I do however plan on upgrading to a PT100 thermocoupler because then, I will be able to print at 280°C for Nylons an Polycarbonates reliably. Except for speed (using a Vulcano hotend) it is the directness of this extruder that is the main advantage. Retractions problems are a thing of the past and flexible filaments are no problem at all. Thanks again and... Happy printing!
Tinkerman The CR -10 S5 don’t do the work as a quality as CR- 10 S this CR -10 S is better
There Is a design issue in the E3D titan.. it binds it's gears These E3d guys are Not Very good at design execution.. period. The Clones are often better made.
You should do a comparison between manually leveling like you did in this video vs using ABL in Marlin latest firmware. You can get a nice printout of the results with a G29. I'm curious how close you are getting with a manual level.
SLT exellente la video , la traduction en francais e genial !!!!!! merci , je M abonne oueeeehhhh
Hello, what about titan aero and Creality ender 3 pro? Do you have any experience? And also, what about E3Pro and boot loadre is it needed? regards.
Men this it's a bad idea
4:30 I would also argue that a bed levelling sensor on a machine like the CR-10 wouldn't really do anything in the best case, and potentially make things worse - the Z axis resolution of the CR-10 and similar machines is 40 microns per step with the stock setup, so unless your bed level is *way* off it'll only ever try to move the Z axis by less than a step (i.e. it'll buzz but won't move at all). Furthermore the Z axis has a decent amount of backlash in it; meaning you *really* only ever want to move the Z axis in one direction for the duration of the print - continually moving the axis would lead to some real issues with layer height accuracy.
Edit: an additional thought, a bed level sensor would be quite useful on these machines just to repeatably set the Z axis height at Z=0, especially if you want to use different Z offsets for different materials, or if you want to change print bed materials without manually adjusting the nozzle height every time. So even if it can't compensate for an off-level bed, it can still be used to set the nozzle height instead of relying on the end stop. This is actually a good enough reason to want one I think..
I have one on my CR10 and it helped SO much with bed adhesion and overall usability.. can‘t recommend it enough.
What brand and color filament was that silver benchy made from?
I think that this was Prusas silver PLA.
Don't know if anyone can help me, I'm using FreeCad and cura on a Ender3, stuff prints really well however is always about 0.2 mm bigger than it should be. Is this because I'm printing with a 0.4 width? So if it doesn't divide into 0.4 it will always oversize the object however I tried to print something 8mm which is a multible of 0.4? I have checked the E-steps that didn't make any diffrence. Looking at cura everything looks fine like it says it should be 8mm. I know that there is errors and so it will never be perfect but 0.2mm seems pretty big and its always bigger rather a mix of bigger and smaller. Maybe there is a probem with the steps per mm? however that seems unlikey cause I have a small slit in the part and that is being printed too small... any advice would be awesome.
Why do you need to change the firmware? Just change the e steps in gcode, right?
Super Leistung, du wirst später eine gefragte Fachkraft sein ;p
...ich seh' jünger aus, als ich wirklich bin :P
Hast du die jerk Werte verringert?
My bearing has broke in two Titan aeros as well. Very frustrating
Do you have a file for the Titan Aero fan shrout for the original V6 nozzle? Got it all put together and realized your design is only for the Volcano hot end.
+Chris Macier Nope, sorry. but there are a couple more designs out on Thingiverse.
Did you use F360 or have the .step files that you an share so I can modify your design? Thanks
There you go: a360.co/2Btdon1
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it. Once I get it working for sure I will send it back to you and you can throw the file up on your Thingiverse so others can have access.
Or, if you have a Thingiverse account just upload it as a remix.