That tracking adjustment looks pretty clever to me. It's been one of the things I've tried to work out in my head how I wanted to do it when (if) I make one. Thanks for sharing.
How many of you would like to see this old sawmill back in action..Post comments.. If I get enough interest.. I will start cutting logs with it again..????
I have watched many videos on home made sawmills but yours look good and sharing dimensions on your project made me get unexplainable satisfaction thank you looking forward to build my own
Glad we could help..I have had a lot of fun with mine and made some good pocket change milling on the side..didn't take me long to start seeing profits with the lower cost of the build compared to spending 20 grand
To put it simply, you did a great job building a great functioning machine with just your knowledge. Well, using your hands too. Well done & keep up the excellent work. Take care Mr. Sbrusch.
Great step by step explanations on this build. Easy to understand. I enjoy watching these videos of sawmill builds. Yours is the best so for on sharing dimensions. Thanks so much for sharing. Be safe with this machine. Gene from Iowa
I like the way you mounted the crank beneath instead of above the top bar. If it doesn't interfere with anything as the saw rises and you're able to leave it that way, the crank should be within easy reach.
I built a second mill and it is the same but I mounted a boat winch on it..It is a little faster, but the accuracy is a little off. because of the cables..But all is well, it still works great for rough sawmill lumber
Are your blade wheels wide enough? I know on my 18" bandsaw the blade stays between the tires and doesn't overhang. I'm just not sure what you may need on that .?
Work well !! To be on the safe side I think I would add two tubes coming from each upright down to where the weights are then a crosspiece at a comfortable height to act as your push bar. This will help with a little weight transfer and move the user away from the saw blade, I'm on my twenty sixth mill and got a lot of help from other builders . Good luck !!
Hi Larry, Frank here from Australia, the threaded shafts you just for the op and down movement is called (all thread ) here in Australia in metric or BSW. Shouldn't the cutting blade tension be released after shutting down for the day? Love your work Frank
ohh how i love this video. just add safety bro. and i was kind of checking about the measuring matters. any idea if we will get that in your next video?
Looks like its working fairly well. I'm surprised you don't have your roller guide adjustable to come closer to the wood to keep your cut from drifting. Looks great and nice work building this awesome project!
Thank you sir I have been thinking of making my own and this seems like the most bang for the buck in terms of time and money to get a good cutting mill. If you all still have those parts on your website I'll be taking a look later on. Any tips or helpful ideas I'm all ears. Take care and thanks
Yes I still sell some of them parts on my website at txdashcovers.com..under industrial section..if you ever have any questions, give me a call on the number on website..will be glad to help you
@@FILBRITCHANNEL I have two other buyers in line once I decide to sell it..I need to finish my build on my third mill then I will put it up for sale.. Not sure on the price yet. I have to figure out what my cost is in it..I will sell it without engine..I would be guessing around $1400-1600
Larry change the bottom tubing holding your casters to a 2x3 and mount your casters inside this way they will be shield from the sawdust coming off the blade. this is what I did works good the track stays cleaner.
Their is a calculator online for spacing of pulleys and blade length. Putting belts on pulleys is a task. Did you purchase them from txdashcovers.com or someone else
With its original unique design, your mill looks nice and seems to run fine. Here are two possible improvements you could consider. First, blade cover, or maybe I should rather name it blade guard, would be a most for added security. It is easily made from sheet metal or plywood and it is not worth the risk of sawing any further without one. Second, you could consider large roller blade guides. Timberking uses 2-inch and even 3 inch diameter roller guides on its larger sawmills. This slows down the RPM of the guides, thus reducing wear and risk of overheating bearings, and so extending their life.
nice setup only thing i see you need is a water drip setup to keep the blade from over heating and breaking on you other then that it is a good setup up
I’m gonna build one this summer I’m going to get an international 4700 truck frame it’s 28 foot long and 42 inches wide it’s flat and square all I will have to do is put angle iron for the track
Larry I just watched your video of the mill in action, please make a blade shroud for safety . If that blade breaks your are is right there, I don't want to see a fellow sawyer get hurt.
Yes sir, I understand..please look at our other video's..it was done a long time ago..we made a lot of changes since this video and will be uploading a new video of my cousins sawmill cutting spalting pecan slabs
Eyes are the highest precision instruments in the shop, literally irreplaceable. A dust mask, sawdust is exceptionally toxic. I really enjoyed the videos and the simplicity of your build. Thank you very much for sharing Sir.
Hola buen día gracias por tan importante aporte estoy interesado en poder hacer una existe la posibilidad de obtener los planos. Muy amable a la espera de su respuesta gracias
I don't have a spec sheet on it, but I will try to put a video together with thickness of each piece and size. I do have a video of most of it. let me see if I can find it and I will send you a link..
Thanks for the reply do you know the guage of steel thickness I like your build I'm going to start building one myself soon I have everything but the steel frame so far
We just bought a cabin upstate Adirondacks NY The property is loaded with mature hemlock, fat straight trees. Part of the me not working, GF working program, is that I will now have the time to build things to turn my "income" over the time. The mechMaxx sawmill is 14hp 16 footer for $4k Do you recon a mechanic/fabricator like me should build my first mill, or just buy one? I priced the steel stock, the beds will cost alot, the rails will add up etc. Motor new 15hp $500 etc etc. I would think id be into 2k atleast. Does it still make sense these days to build one vs buy?
@@LarrySbrusch Im likely going to have to just build one A cradle and a rail bed, sounds too simple to ignore how much ill end up saving, then like you said, the ability to make some of it even better than whats mass produced. I built my jetjon because I was poor, 5yr later im very glad I did. Thanks for the help and ill be in touch when I begin the build, i'll order some stuff through your site if your still doing that.
Hey brother I’m just having problems figuring what I need to get started where to buy parts but I’m a woodworker and lumber has gotten so high here in ohio I have to
You will need the square tubing. 2 big pulleys, a drive pulley, pillow block bearings based on the size of shafts, some plate to mount the blocks to and several other items.? It’s hard to give you all the details. But my phone number is on my website where we sell some of the parts. Txdashcovers.com
I’m ordering me a flux core welder from grizzly and I’m gonna start I tryed to use one of those chain saw mills on Amazon it was junk waisted 30 dollars!!!
Hi Larry. I like your idea of adjustment plates. Spot on sir. I plan on building a mill this summer incorporating your ideas. A couple of question: #1- how come you didn't make the tower in the center of the carriage? And #2- i would like to make mine with a pushbar from the side so i'm not stepping over anything in the middle, is that possible with your setup? Thanks Larry. I really appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work.
Great job on this saw mill but how can I get the parts. And blue print to build it can I buy parts from if so could I get prices thank you for your help.
I really don’t have any prints, but it is something I need to look into since I have a lot of people asking for them. I can draw you up some basic prints. I can also build you a basic kit minus the big steel and shafts. Price would depend on what size blade and shafts you plan on running. You can call me tomorrow at 9565336811 to discuss details
Hi Pretty good advice, but from looking at the cut on the log you have on the rig I presume you have a bit of blade vibration, ill take that back after seeing the cut at the end of the video. good job
Very simple, I normally just loosen the back two outter bolts and the inside two front bolts around 2 turns and when I'm ready to cut again, tighten them back to original location
I wouldn't have anytime soon to build it but I do offer some of the parts to build it on our website at txdashcovers.com..under industrial section..right now we are doing tornado cleanup..it hit us two days ago here in Polk county
Pretty neat and I am very interested in building something like that. How much do you think it would cost me in raw materials if I bought a new engine and all of the pulleys and metal? I have looked into commercially built machines but I am not afraid of a little work if it saves me some money.
The blade is water cooled..I will be putting out another video tomorrow about building a new sawmill that runs a 158" blade..it is the building process.check it out.I also sell a few of these parts at txdashcovers.com
Hay brother love your design you will save blades if you put a water drip system didn't see one on your mill .would dig it if you could send me prints thanks ,I'm just an old worn out Carpenter trying to do something different ,thanks again and wood be much apperceptive PS your awesome brother thanks
Hi, can I ask you a question? the Blade Wheel Belt is for belt B or belt C. thanks my friend! I am starting to build a sawmill and I have many doubts, I thank you for your help.
Do not build it bigger than you think you will normally use..when you go big..the blades always cost a lot more..that is why I have three different mills.since I cut logs about twice a week for customer's..average 144" blade $25 or a 197" custom blade $79
You may want to rethink the 1” shafts. They have been proved inadequate in other similar builds. The stresses eventually break them, since you have spoken of deflection when you tighten your band I cannot help but to thin it may happen eventually to you also. Simple solution is to put extra pillow block bearings in between the 2 you have, 1 will probably do it, 2 if you have room. This will keep the 1” shaft from flexing as much therefore reducing stress on the shaft.
I have been running it now for over 3 years with no issues, but I agree with you..I am building. A 258" mill right now and I stepped to 1-1/4" shaft..I think it's the best thing to do to prevent flexing of the shaft..appreciate the comment
Hey brother weld U 3 pieces of metal as a push handle to get you 2' further back away from that blade. Man if that blade breaks & whips back around toward You it will rip you in half. Also build U some sheet metal covers over each pulley & blade on the ends. Very dangerous the way you have it now. Great build though, works great 👍 thumbs up!
you need a water tank and tube for the cool tool effect. This will make your blade last longer.
We added one to it
I’m no pro sawmill builder, but that turned out pretty well
Still working on it. Have a few things to finish up.? Appreciate the comment
Definitely got a good start !
ดีมากเลยได้ความรู้ครับ🙏🙏👍👍👏👏
ขอขนาดมอเลและใบเลือยขอบคุณครับ
🙏🙏
Appreciate the comment. Thank You
Thanks for all your information!!!
Will be putting out more once I get back on my build. Appreciate the comment
Good Job !
Thank you. Appreciate the comment
Very nice machine 👍
Thanks 👍
Thank you for sharing your great idea.
Glad I could help. Will be making a video with all the measurements very soon
Thank you for sharing, this video is so helpfull for me. Thanks to you from Mexico!
Glad I could help. Thanks
A great bunch of videos. The details are super helpful. tHanks.
I cut mostly framing and trim boards with my mill.
Good comment. Thank you
@@LarrySbrusch What are you building next? The shop looks busy...and clean. Clean is a sign that something is about to happen. Something interesting!
Saya sepat dg siaran ini mutifasi sy dn inpirasi masa depan ...
аплодирую простоте конструкции и золотым рукам мастера. I applaud the simplicity of the design. golden hand
Thank You. Appreciate the comment..
Awesome. Can't wait until it's finished
That tracking adjustment looks pretty clever to me. It's been one of the things I've tried to work out in my head how I wanted to do it when (if) I make one. Thanks for sharing.
Yes it is. Pretty simple and I like it. I am building a new mill right now and I am using the same system on it as well..Appreciate the comment
@@LarrySbrusch 285217 ออกแบบ/7855545587485585282855858855222568836665685888888885858858
thank you very much for sharing.
No problem.
Thx for sharing
No problem. Glad I could help. Be sure to check out my latest build and new 158" sawmill build
Gran video Larry me gusta y lo voy a construir siguiendo tus consejos gracias .. ya te puse like y me suscribi tanks men..
Thank you.appreciate the comment..stay tuned for my new sawmill video coming soon
@@LarrySbrusch gracias estaré atento para verlo saludos..
How many of you would like to see this old sawmill back in action..Post comments.. If I get enough interest.. I will start cutting logs with it again..????
I have watched many videos on home made sawmills but yours look good and sharing dimensions on your project made me get unexplainable satisfaction thank you looking forward to build my own
Thank you, glad we could help.new video coming out soon on my new build
Saludos cordiales gracias por la información
Glad I could help. Thank you for the comment
thats a nice width capacity on that mill.
Yes we it is
I am getting ready to build my saw mill thanks for giving your take on building your saw mill helpfull Robert
Glad we could help..I have had a lot of fun with mine and made some good pocket change milling on the side..didn't take me long to start seeing profits with the lower cost of the build compared to spending 20 grand
👍👍👍👍Muy bueno
Thank You
Exelente.
Thank You
muito bom very good
appreciate the comment. Thank You
සුපිරි මමත් එකක් හදනවා
Muito bom Larry
Thank you
To put it simply, you did a great job building a great functioning machine with just your knowledge. Well, using your hands too. Well done & keep up the excellent work. Take care Mr. Sbrusch.
Thank You for the comment
Looks Great Fella' I will be building one over the winter, I have Okum Sleepers I need cut so that is my new project, Great Video. Tom Scotland.
Appreciate the comment.let me know if I have any questions...thank you
Nice job Larry
Thanks Don..It's been fun to play with
Your job worksite must smell wonderful, like an old cedar chest maybe?
That is a nice mill
Yes it does. Thank you
Excellent
Great step by step explanations on this build. Easy to understand. I enjoy watching these videos of sawmill builds. Yours is the best so for on sharing dimensions. Thanks so much for sharing. Be safe with this machine. Gene from Iowa
I am always open for any questions.. It is a lot of fun building something that will do a good job
Ficou show , parece que a fita está ou pouco bamba , precisa de estar mais um pouco!
A lot of changes have been made since this video was shot. Check them out
I like the way you mounted the crank beneath instead of above the top bar. If it doesn't interfere with anything as the saw rises and you're able to leave it that way, the crank should be within easy reach.
I built a second mill and it is the same but I mounted a boat winch on it..It is a little faster, but the accuracy is a little off. because of the cables..But all is well, it still works great for rough sawmill lumber
Very very pretty machine.intrested but there's no sales agents in Papua new guinea
No there is not
Hey Larry looks great 👍
Appreciate you sharing your ingenuity 😁
I will be putting up a new video soon of my 158" sawmill..just got to finish up the blade guide rollers.appreciate the comment
Are your blade wheels wide enough? I know on my 18" bandsaw the blade stays between the tires and doesn't overhang. I'm just not sure what you may need on that .?
Yes they are wide enough and have worked fine for over 3? Years of run time. I should of used 1-1/4” shafts
Work well !! To be on the safe side I think I would add two tubes coming from each upright down to where the weights are then a crosspiece at a comfortable height to act as your push bar. This will help with a little weight transfer and move the user away from the saw blade, I'm on my twenty sixth mill and got a lot of help from other builders . Good luck !!
Yes sir. I agree with you and right after I posted this video. I added a push bar...
+Larry Sbrusch .www.com.sawmill
Hi Larry, Frank here from Australia, the threaded shafts you just for the op and down movement is called (all thread ) here in Australia in metric or BSW. Shouldn't the cutting blade tension be released after shutting down for the day? Love your work Frank
nice and simple buid every parts 👍👌👌👌👌👌
ohh how i love this video. just add safety bro. and i was kind of checking about the measuring matters. any idea if we will get that in your next video?
Check out my other sawmill videos. The sizes are in it, appreciate the comment
muy bueno. saludos desde venezuela
Abraços do Brasil,vou fazer meu projeto igual a esse obrigado
Appreciate the comment.thank you
Looks like its working fairly well. I'm surprised you don't have your roller guide adjustable to come closer to the wood to keep your cut from drifting. Looks great and nice work building this awesome project!
One side is adjustable. It slides back and forth,,,
Gdhekc zxgut gsgh
Muito bom
Sedia dinding hiline dan juga menjual mobil hiline picup dan rehap total hartop th-cam.com/video/oQB3MvT0YyE/w-d-xo.html
Nice job Larry. Thank you for sharing info
Thank you sir I have been thinking of making my own and this seems like the most bang for the buck in terms of time and money to get a good cutting mill. If you all still have those parts on your website I'll be taking a look later on. Any tips or helpful ideas I'm all ears. Take care and thanks
Yes I still sell some of them parts on my website at txdashcovers.com..under industrial section..if you ever have any questions, give me a call on the number on website..will be glad to help you
❤️❤️❤️ interessante
Ive subscribe to you a year ago and this project is excellent.
Did you check out my other video on the 158" sawmill I'm building
Are you selling it? If so how much?
@@FILBRITCHANNEL I have two other buyers in line once I decide to sell it..I need to finish my build on my third mill then I will put it up for sale.. Not sure on the price yet. I have to figure out what my cost is in it..I will sell it without engine..I would be guessing around $1400-1600
Yes please I would love to buy one from you. Please do it as assembled especially the runner so you can send it out.
What do you mean by the runner.
Larry change the bottom tubing holding your casters to a 2x3 and mount your casters inside this way they will be shield from the sawdust coming off the blade. this is what I did works good the track stays cleaner.
Good ideal. When I get the time. I will change them. Thanks
Молодец !!!
how do you get the belts on the band pulleys and figure out the size of belt for the pulley?????
Their is a calculator online for spacing of pulleys and blade length. Putting belts on pulleys is a task. Did you purchase them from txdashcovers.com or someone else
I'm learning a bit from you I really appreciate that I've subscribed thumbs up my new friend
Glad we could help..we appreciate the comment..
With its original unique design, your mill looks nice and seems to run fine. Here are two possible improvements you could consider. First, blade cover, or maybe I should rather name it blade guard, would be a most for added security. It is easily made from sheet metal or plywood and it is not worth the risk of sawing any further without one. Second, you could consider large roller blade guides. Timberking uses 2-inch and even 3 inch diameter roller guides on its larger sawmills. This slows down the RPM of the guides, thus reducing wear and risk of overheating bearings, and so extending their life.
Do you have any measurements
Could a transmission added between the flywheels improve the stability of the blade?
Not sure that would improve it
When I build another mill this body,I will just increase the shaft size to 1-1/4” to make it more stable
nice setup only thing i see you need is a water drip setup to keep the blade from over heating and breaking on you other then that it is a good setup up
I put one on it right after I made the video..Thanks
I’m gonna build one this summer I’m going to get an international 4700 truck frame it’s 28 foot long and 42 inches wide it’s flat and square all I will have to do is put angle iron for the track
Sounds like a great ideal. Appreciate the comment
nice sawmill a lot of satisfaction using something that you make yourself.. built one my self works good have videos up on youtube
It is a great feeling when you cut through a log anticipating what the piece will look like. I love woodworking. Appreciate your comment
Hi Larry
Excellent sawmill.
I would like to build one myself.
Please can you provide a link for the dimensions.
Thanks
Nice design. What diameter are band wheels.
18-3/4” from txdashcovers.com
Larry I just watched your video of the mill in action, please make a blade shroud for safety . If that blade breaks your are is right there, I don't want to see a fellow sawyer get hurt.
Yes sir, I understand..please look at our other video's..it was done a long time ago..we made a lot of changes since this video and will be uploading a new video of my cousins sawmill cutting spalting pecan slabs
Eyes are the highest precision instruments in the shop, literally irreplaceable. A dust mask, sawdust is exceptionally toxic. I really enjoyed the videos and the simplicity of your build. Thank you very much for sharing Sir.
I agree with you and most of the time I wear them...I need to practice it more often.. Appreciate your comment...
Hola buen día gracias por tan importante aporte estoy interesado en poder hacer una existe la posibilidad de obtener los planos. Muy amable a la espera de su respuesta gracias
sorry, but I do not have any prints. All I have is in one of my sawmill videos..It gives you most of the dimensions
What kind of materials is needed to build this mill
I don't have a spec sheet on it, but I will try to put a video together with thickness of each piece and size. I do have a video of most of it. let me see if I can find it and I will send you a link..
Try this link to my other video..th-cam.com/video/QfHKGK4TV98/w-d-xo.html
what size square tubing ?
2” and 2-1/2 on most of the build
Thanks for the reply do you know the guage of steel thickness I like your build I'm going to start building one myself soon I have everything but the steel frame so far
We just bought a cabin upstate Adirondacks NY
The property is loaded with mature hemlock, fat straight trees.
Part of the me not working, GF working program, is that I will now have the time to build things to turn my "income" over the time.
The mechMaxx sawmill is 14hp 16 footer for $4k
Do you recon a mechanic/fabricator like me should build my first mill, or just buy one?
I priced the steel stock, the beds will cost alot, the rails will add up etc. Motor new 15hp $500 etc etc. I would think id be into 2k atleast.
Does it still make sense these days to build one vs buy?
When you build one, you know what you got and you can get parts
@@LarrySbrusch Im likely going to have to just build one
A cradle and a rail bed, sounds too simple to ignore how much ill end up saving, then like you said, the ability to make some of it even better than whats mass produced.
I built my jetjon because I was poor, 5yr later im very glad I did.
Thanks for the help and ill be in touch when I begin the build, i'll order some stuff through your site if your still doing that.
Let me know if I can help you out
@@LarrySbrusch What tube size did you use for building the carriage frame?
Hey brother I’m just having problems figuring what I need to get started where to buy parts but I’m a woodworker and lumber has gotten so high here in ohio I have to
You will need the square tubing. 2 big pulleys, a drive pulley, pillow block bearings based on the size of shafts, some plate to mount the blocks to and several other items.? It’s hard to give you all the details. But my phone number is on my website where we sell some of the parts. Txdashcovers.com
Thank you buddy I’ve been researching for 5months I’m a single dad and I can’t afford a brand new one so I’m gonna try and build
@@Patriotdesigns it’s a lot of fun to build one. My video should help you some
I’m ordering me a flux core welder from grizzly and I’m gonna start I tryed to use one of those chain saw mills on Amazon it was junk waisted 30 dollars!!!
Hi Larry. I like your idea of adjustment plates. Spot on sir. I plan on building a mill this summer incorporating your ideas. A couple of question: #1- how come you didn't make the tower in the center of the carriage? And #2- i would like to make mine with a pushbar from the side so i'm not stepping over anything in the middle, is that possible with your setup? Thanks Larry. I really appreciate your videos. Keep up the great work.
A push bar on one end or another might not be an issue..I just felt that the way I have it set up allows me to push the sawmill head more evenly..
I didn't want the tower in middle due to the fact that I would of had to run bigger belts, especially on a 52" wide cut saw
Is it balanced off-centered like you have it?
@@jgkurt pretty much
Like it
Appreciate the comment. Thank you
Great job on this saw mill but how can I get the parts. And blue print to build it can I buy parts from if so could I get prices thank you for your help.
I really don’t have any prints, but it is something I need to look into since I have a lot of people asking for them. I can draw you up some basic prints. I can also build you a basic kit minus the big steel and shafts. Price would depend on what size blade and shafts you plan on running. You can call me tomorrow at 9565336811 to discuss details
Hi Pretty good advice, but from looking at the cut on the log you have on the rig I presume you have a bit of blade vibration, ill take that back after seeing the cut at the end of the video. good job
The blade was a little on the dull side..But I made it work.Thanks for the comment
echt klasse gemacht.....aber ohne schutzabdeckung eine verdammt gefährliche sache.
How do you release the blade tension after sawing for the day? Nice job. For those that criticize, talk is cheap. Lead, follow or get out of the way
Very simple, I normally just loosen the back two outter bolts and the inside two front bolts around 2 turns and when I'm ready to cut again, tighten them back to original location
But what protects the blade coz I can see it just on those wheels nothing to protect the blade explain well
Right after this vide I installed the blade covers. check out my other video. I also built other sawmills since then #956Studio in TH-cam
Молодец
very good video where I can see the plans to do it, thanks from Ukraina
Cool
Thank you
यह मशीन कहां मिलेगी
Hi sir can i have the plan of your sawmill or the measurement
Check out my other videos, I do not have any plans, but one of my sawmill videos has the measurements in it
I do not have any plans,but I do have a video in youtube of the measurements
You will need gussets on you uprights to take the flex out of it,, and some form of stays on you engine bracket
Great suggestion..will have to look into that
Larry what size belt do I get for the wheels, the wheels are18 3/4 so is that the size if v belt or do I go a little smaller and stretch them
Go to txdashcovers.com and look under industrial section
What is diameter of threaded rod used to raise and lower carriage. Thanks!
5/8” acme screw rod
Wheels . Where did you get those fine wheels.
TXDashcovers.com
What gauge square tubing did y'all use?Great vidios
mostly 3/16" wall tubing
very good video where I can see the plans to do it, thanks from Argentina
I don't really have any plans. just the information in video
A mi también me gusta mucho estos videos.
you can check out my other video's, I have one with all the details outlining all the measurements to build it. I do not have any plans on paper
Молодец! то же хочу такую собрать... есть чертежи?
Berapa hsrga somel mad
Hi Larry thanks for sharing it. Can you builb one for me and let me know how much please. Great work
Wouldn't be able to right now..we are still cleaning up from a tornado that came through our area recently
🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
appreciate the comment. Thank you
Excuse me, what device is the Motor?
429 cc kohler command pro engine
@@LarrySbrusch Where can I get it since I only found electricity and not fuel? please help me
nice work but if there any defact in machine pls mention
still running it. no defects at this point..
how much to build me a smallier version that uses a extension ladder as a guide
I wouldn't have anytime soon to build it but I do offer some of the parts to build it on our website at txdashcovers.com..under industrial section..right now we are doing tornado cleanup..it hit us two days ago here in Polk county
Is the price about the same as a new sawmill once your done? Advantage I see is width you can cut.
Not really.but it depends on brand and all the bells and whistles you want to add to the mill
If you want to stop the rust, try 'cold galvanizing spray paint'. I make projects out of emt, and my welds don't start showing rust for 2-3 years.
That's a good ideal. Thanks
Hi.. larry.. i am from Indonesia. Your bandsaw is very simple and I want to know abt ur engine.abt the power. How many HP. Thanks.. Larry.
629 CC Engine
@@LarrySbrusch thanks larry..
Pretty neat and I am very interested in building something like that. How much do you think it would cost me in raw materials if I bought a new engine and all of the pulleys and metal? I have looked into commercially built machines but I am not afraid of a little work if it saves me some money.
did you ever think about making it water cooled so the expensive blades last longer?
The blade is water cooled..I will be putting out another video tomorrow about building a new sawmill that runs a 158" blade..it is the building process.check it out.I also sell a few of these parts at txdashcovers.com
Hay brother love your design you will save blades if you put a water drip system didn't see one on your mill .would dig it if you could send me prints thanks ,I'm just an old worn out Carpenter trying to do something different ,thanks again and wood be much apperceptive PS your awesome brother thanks
I have a drip system on it. I took an old fire extinguisher bottle and I use water with dishwashing soap..
Hi, can I ask you a question? the Blade Wheel Belt is for belt B or belt C.
thanks my friend!
I am starting to build a sawmill and I have many doubts, I thank you for your help.
I run b belts on mine..
Do not build it bigger than you think you will normally use..when you go big..the blades always cost a lot more..that is why I have three different mills.since I cut logs about twice a week for customer's..average 144" blade $25 or a 197" custom blade $79
@@LarrySbrusch
thank you very much for your reply.
And I thank you for the advice not to build it bigger than you need.
You may want to rethink the 1” shafts. They have been proved inadequate in other similar builds. The stresses eventually break them, since you have spoken of deflection when you tighten your band I cannot help but to thin it may happen eventually to you also. Simple solution is to put extra pillow block bearings in between the 2 you have, 1 will probably do it, 2 if you have room. This will keep the 1” shaft from flexing as much therefore reducing stress on the shaft.
I have been running it now for over 3 years with no issues, but I agree with you..I am building. A 258" mill right now and I stepped to 1-1/4" shaft..I think it's the best thing to do to prevent flexing of the shaft..appreciate the comment
Or a Gearcase as it’s known in my circles.
You got a like and subscribe from me..thanks so much for an excellent video..
Hey brother weld U 3 pieces of metal as a push handle to get you 2' further back away from that blade. Man if that blade breaks & whips back around toward You it will rip you in half. Also build U some sheet metal covers over each pulley & blade on the ends. Very dangerous the way you have it now. Great build though, works great 👍 thumbs up!
I have already done all of the above in my other video's...this is one of my first video's.. Thanks for the feedback
What about lubricating the blade and some guards?
If you get a chance. Take a look at my other video's..all of those issues have been addressed