Ben, you missed one of the most important steps of connecting the water line to the refrigerator. You MUST run the 1/4” tubing through the clamp above the solenoid to keep the line from moving at the solenoid connection. Compression connections are very sensitive to movement, and once the seal is broken and it begins to leak, it usually can’t be fixed by just tightening the 1/4” compression nut. The worst thing about not using the clamp (right there on your refrigerator above the solenoid) is you can’t see what is going on once you have pushed the refrigerator back - you don’t know if you have broken the compression seal by moving the refrigerator, and it could be leaking right off the bat. The clamp will ensure that the 1/4” tube has not moved at the connection. Using the clamp will ensure a good connection, no matter how many times you pull the refrigerator out and push it back in.
Good information! I was on a job years ago and the remodeling contractor didn’t want to call a plumber for the dishwasher water connection so he did it himself. It was a 3 day holiday weekend and the connection failed. Three story house had brand new wood flooring and a real pool in the basement, with a “new” ceiling water feature. Be careful out there!
This 76 yr old vet is about to install the RO system for my family, wife, mother-in-law and 3 children, loved your presentation, especially about the by-pass plug, like in the Navy you would get a big "E" for excellence!! Especially showing the parts and connections clearly. Thanks again!
Speaking from experience, do not go cheap on your water line, especially if it is run between ceiling floor joists over a finished basement. After a couple years when the cheap line breaks, you will be on the hook for many $$$ in repairs, not to mention pulling out drywall, carpet, insulation, and more damaged by a leak that may have been dripping for days or weeks until you realize there is an issue. Oh yeah, the mold and mildew too. Lesson learned.
has it still be working well? I was just concerned if there will be enough water and pressure to run the ice maker and the spicket.i mainly want to run it through the fridge to get cold water, can't figure any other way to get reverse osmosis cold.
If I have access to the joists below (not finished), and drywall can be cut, I prefer to install a recessed valve in the wall behind the refrigerator. This protects the valve while also not needing to drill holes in the flooring.
On the backside of our former GE Gallery refrigerator was a note to the installer: DO NOT USE NYLON TUBING for the water supply. So I used the SS braided hose like you did. What eventually leaked upon investigation was the GE nylon tubing inside the factory compartment near the hot compressor! Oops!
I connected the water line to the refrigerator but don’t drop water what you think is the problem may be the line in the refrigerator is frozen i need to disconnect the refrigerator?
What I want to know is how do you plug up the water connection to your refrigerator after you’ve moved the refrigerator? I have to put my waterline in a container because it keeps leaking out, and I don’t know how to plug it to stop the water. I don’t plan to replace the refrigerator at that spot. I try to clamp but it doesn’t seem to work too well. 🤔
You need to turn of the valve at the beginning of the line. Either at the back fridge on the floor like in the video or under a sink usually. If it continues to leak in may be a bad valve and it needs to be replaced. You can also get a cap nut that will thread onto the hose or valve if nothing else
Use ball valves the type of valve he uses is useless as it will leak if when you activate it years down the line whereas you will not have that problem with a ball valve.
I don't see why you'd mess with the compression nut setup when they sell 1/4" OD push connect to 1/4" female thread adapters for just a couple bucks. Especially if your fridge doesn't come with any connection hardware and you have to buy something anyway. "But I don't trust push to connect fittings and I don't mind assembling all those bits together". Well if you didn't trust push-to-connect fittings you wouldn't be linking to them in the video description. Nope try again.
Use COPPER pipes, unless you WANT toxins in your water, in which case, I don't understand why you would be concerned about a filter. So if you're going to put in a filter, use copper pipes and fittings. Also beneficial in a properly grounded home.
![How To Install A Water Line To Your Fridge [Pex & Copper]](/img/n.gif)
Ben, you missed one of the most important steps of connecting the water line to the refrigerator. You MUST run the 1/4” tubing through the clamp above the solenoid to keep the line from moving at the solenoid connection. Compression connections are very sensitive to movement, and once the seal is broken and it begins to leak, it usually can’t be fixed by just tightening the 1/4” compression nut. The worst thing about not using the clamp (right there on your refrigerator above the solenoid) is you can’t see what is going on once you have pushed the refrigerator back - you don’t know if you have broken the compression seal by moving the refrigerator, and it could be leaking right off the bat. The clamp will ensure that the 1/4” tube has not moved at the connection. Using the clamp will ensure a good connection, no matter how many times you pull the refrigerator out and push it back in.
Good information! I was on a job years ago and the remodeling contractor didn’t want to call a plumber for the dishwasher water connection so he did it himself. It was a 3 day holiday weekend and the connection failed. Three story house had brand new wood flooring and a real pool in the basement, with a “new” ceiling water feature. Be careful out there!
@@lorenrickey5481 Jesus!
This 76 yr old vet is about to install the RO system for my family, wife, mother-in-law and 3 children, loved your presentation, especially about the by-pass plug, like in the
Navy you would get a big "E" for excellence!! Especially showing the parts and connections clearly. Thanks again!
Speaking from experience, do not go cheap on your water line, especially if it is run between ceiling floor joists over a finished basement. After a couple years when the cheap line breaks, you will be on the hook for many $$$ in repairs, not to mention pulling out drywall, carpet, insulation, and more damaged by a leak that may have been dripping for days or weeks until you realize there is an issue. Oh yeah, the mold and mildew too. Lesson learned.
has it still be working well? I was just concerned if there will be enough water and pressure to run the ice maker and the spicket.i mainly want to run it through the fridge to get cold water, can't figure any other way to get reverse osmosis cold.
If I have access to the joists below (not finished), and drywall can be cut, I prefer to install a recessed valve in the wall behind the refrigerator. This protects the valve while also not needing to drill holes in the flooring.
Bless you good sir! ❤ Your video is the only one that helped me 😊
Doesn’t the RO system need a line going to the drain for the bad water? Maybe I missed that part of the video.
Timely, I was thinking of doing this for quite awhile...
You gave me the idea to move my RO system down to my basement
Will the stiffener help preven tubing from shooting out because that is the issue I’m having now
Thanks for the explanation. The video really help me!
This was perfect thank you!
On the backside of our former GE Gallery refrigerator was a note to the installer: DO NOT USE NYLON TUBING for the water supply. So I used the SS braided hose like you did. What eventually leaked upon investigation was the GE nylon tubing inside the factory compartment near the hot compressor! Oops!
This may be a dumb question, but, could you hook this waterline up to bottled water? My husband won't run a water line to the fridge. 😢
Great video!
I connected the water line to the refrigerator but don’t drop water what you think is the problem may be the line in the refrigerator is frozen i need to disconnect the refrigerator?
Great video
Great video great work. Water good show.
Ferrule and Insert are not fitting well and after tightening the bolt, pipe is coming out. I tried plastic pipe as well as copper pipe. Please advise.
I don’t have enough pressure to the fridge. Do I need a pump? What do I need? Please help
Thank you for the video!
Good info ... Thx ...
Every house and water pipes are different for different climate ereas regions.
Loven the videos man, keep it up!
I want to see how to hook up the water line that's inside the refrigerator that under the icebox
What I want to know is how do you plug up the water connection to your refrigerator after you’ve moved the refrigerator?
I have to put my waterline in a container because it keeps leaking out, and I don’t know how to plug it to stop the water. I don’t plan to replace the refrigerator at that spot.
I try to clamp but it doesn’t seem to work too well. 🤔
You need to turn of the valve at the beginning of the line. Either at the back fridge on the floor like in the video or under a sink usually. If it continues to leak in may be a bad valve and it needs to be replaced. You can also get a cap nut that will thread onto the hose or valve if nothing else
@@rackoone
Thank you, I’ll probably have to use the cap because there’s no valve to shut off. I’ll try & look under the house. 🖖
Why didn’t you address the drain?
Do no like drinking water thru a plastic pipe. Ice also.
You forgot to say you need a pump, not enough pressure to make ice with reverse osmosis unit
Just buy a Refrigerator valve for the water line nearby.😂
You don’t get enough pressure in the way you hooked it up. This is not right you need to pump.
Use ball valves the type of valve he uses is useless as it will leak if when you activate it years down the line whereas you will not have that problem with a ball valve.
I don't see why you'd mess with the compression nut setup when they sell 1/4" OD push connect to 1/4" female thread adapters for just a couple bucks. Especially if your fridge doesn't come with any connection hardware and you have to buy something anyway.
"But I don't trust push to connect fittings and I don't mind assembling all those bits together". Well if you didn't trust push-to-connect fittings you wouldn't be linking to them in the video description. Nope try again.
Use COPPER pipes, unless you WANT toxins in your water, in which case, I don't understand why you would be concerned about a filter. So if you're going to put in a filter, use copper pipes and fittings. Also beneficial in a properly grounded home.