Sleeving a 396 Big Block for a 1970 Camaro - MuscleCar S6, E8
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Learn how a block is sleeved when the 396 engine for our 1970 Camaro RS/SS goes to the machine shop. Tommy shows some of the finer points of assembling an engine including file-fitting rings and measuring rod clearance. Rick explains how to convert an auto car to a 4-speed.
PARTS USED IN THIS EPISODE:
Max-Tuff Assembly Lube
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ARP: Main Bolt Kit
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ARP: Rod Bolt Kit
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ARP: Ultra-Torque Assembly Lubricant
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Comp Cams: Factory Muscle Solid Lifter Camshaft
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Comp Cams: Magnum Double Roller Timing Set
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Comp Cams: Magnum Pushrods
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Comp Cams: Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms
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Comp Cams: Solid Lifters
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Eagle Specialty Products: Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft
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Federal-Mogul Corporation: Engine Gasket Kit Set
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Loctite: 587 RTV Blue Silicone Gasket Maker
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Powerhouse Products: Outside Micrometer: 2-3""
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Summit Racing: Cast Iron Cylinder Heads
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United Engine and Machine Company/Icon Pistons: ICON FHR Series Piston and Hastings Ring Kit
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American Powertrain Systems: Brake Pedal and Clutch Pedal Kit with Mechanical Linkage
American Powertrain Systems: OE Spec 621 GM Bellhousing
American Powertrain Systems: Science Friction Billet Steel Flywheel
American Powertrain Systems: Science Friction Clutch Kit
Huntsville Engine and Performance: Machine Work on Block included Sleeve Cylinder Wall, Line Hone and Decking Block
Loctite: 2760 Primerless Thread Locking Compound
Matco Tools: Magnetic Base with Dial Indicator
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POWERNATION , I got a 66 Super Sport Chevelle with a built 327 , 12:5 to 1 compression Forged pistons , Vette crank , 350 four bolt main engine block , aluminum hi rise intake, HEI distributor , headers , 750Cfm carb. 11 inch clutch , Lakewood blow proof Bellhousing , M-21 Muncie 4 speed trans , 12 bolt posi Trac , Traction bars ,
5.5 sec@ 96mph in 1/8
99
That’s going to be a blast to drive. 6000 rpm, sidestep the clutch and hold on! Im really happy that the 396 was serviceable. It’s a piece of muscle car history that is gone forever. I’m curious if there are subframe connectors in the Camaro’s future. That 96 has a few more lbs of torque then the 307. Great build guys!
blueprint engines still make them and all the other big blocks as well
I enjoy watching all you guy's, yah make the episode's fun and learning, I myself have learned to fix my own vehicle from a mechanic friend of the family, and I have ask question's when I take my vehicle to get checked when I hear a noise not appealing to my ears, I have seen other mechanic's but they sound obnoxious, you fellas are perfect 👍thanks teacher's you guy's are going to save me alot of money and I love learning, it's not bad to ask question's, anyways thanks for the lessons
Thanks for posting these old episodes. Still interesting to watch even if it's not "new"
I miss Rick. Tommy works well with everyone but him and Rick were my favorite.
Agree good to see boshers and bacon together.
I was glad you changed the heads, i have no problem with the block repair, lower end looks ok with high dome pistons to get your 11.5:1 and solid lifter setup, 2 bolt mains is not L78, also intake does not look correct. a stock L78 makes 425 hp and 445 tq, Chevy under rated these at 375 hp, with headers you make 457 hp and 464 tq.
Kept the shelled-out block but scrapped the heads for new Summit castings? With today's low-ZDDP motor oil, I'da put a roller cam in it for sure.
That's what I was gonna say. A nice hydraulic roller would add some power too.
Rick Campbell I have my cams made at Engle Brothers, I let them know what I plan on doing with the engine and so far they have been spot on!
Oh yea, the stress of potentially wiping out a lobe just ain't worth it to me either.
On a street motor that will only occasionally see 6000 rpm there is no need to run 450 lbs springs, especially with this cams easy lobe profile and medium lift.
I really wish they'd put the original airdate of these episodes in the description.
At the very end it shows the copyright date in Roman numerals, this one is from 2011.
Keep on keeping on
They make it look so easy
I've always said I can sleeve anything,, finally I seen someone do it RIGHT
Not trying to be a critic however when using Loctite make sure you use it correctly. Apply the Loctite to the holes in the crank, not the bolts for the flywheel. Loctite will end up between the flywheel and crank flange as it will be extracted off the bolt while screwing it in. Common mistake made by many people!
Not quite true. I have used thread locker for years by putting it on the bolt first and never had an issue. I will say that I don't just slap it on and jam a bolt in though. I put it on and wait a minute or so,while blowing on it. This way it gels up, before I tighten it down. I have pulled out threadlocked bolts and they were tight coming out and the threads had thread locker between them.
You put the locktight on the bolts first, start with the first one you did allowing a minute or so to gel up
i worked many years in a factory using loctite and i found out the only thing red is for it just will not come out unless a touch is used and is heated up to 450 degrees
D F I agree you will have success that way however...have you ever pulled a flywheel off and seen migrated Loctite? That’s what I’m referring to. After Loctite cures, by nature (how it’s designed) it will force against the two surfaces, act as a jack and you will have a runout on the flywheel. Probably not a big issue on a typical street engine but it matters in pro racing when air gap is critical.
@@cc9z yes. Red is typically the "permanent" thread locker,that requires heat to break loose. Blue is "removable".
I would like to see them build a 74-79 camaro to a dirt oval track stock car because I would like to know how to build it. There is one that races near my little town that is stock from the original owners from the 70's or 80's
You can also use plastic gauge on the crankshaft 2 block inspection. We have been using plastigage for years with every motor we have built measure twice build once
GreenBoy at GA Farms These guys have the correct tools to check the tolerances and you want them to do the half assed method? okay....
@@alexcorona and how many motors have you ever built maybe some tricycle Motors
@@alexcorona maybe you should stick to working on cameras. Do you even know what plastic gauge is or even how to use it do you know how to read it after it's torqued and compressed do you know how to read a dial indicator I'm pretty sure you don't otherwise you would not have left the comment you did plastic gauge is measured relatively close do the same thing as a dial indicator it measures how many thousands between journal to journal they've been doing this before dial indicators were even invented
Seen a 400 sbc looks a though ring cut a groove in one of the walls.
I would double check that boot on the clutch fork ;-)
What is the valve spring pressures? 145 closed pressure is going to be right on the ragged edge of what those roller tip rockers can handle, bet they burn-em up.
and no poly locks......
Did you get the flywheel and clutch balanced for the engine on this rebuild
Tommy should have degreed the cam . That just makes sure it is right and helps set timing .
Now everyone knows the best thread locker is the mig welder
I’ve built many engines but have never installed a cylinder sleeve. Are you supposed to install them with any kind of sealant? I would think that a sleeve installed without sealant would allow for leaks especially if the cylinder is cracked or has holes in it like in the video.
Question, what do you do if the crank caps were NOT marked when it was disassembled ??
I would never used a cracked block or put silicone loctite anywhere near where it could get mixed in the oil, but that's just me 🤷🏼♂️
How much time do you allow for adjusting all eight cylinders for rings
I wonder if they know matco only makes tool boxes. EVERYTHING else is rebranded at a higher price.
A 307 small block was an outsourced motor and I believe made in Mexico at the time. Could be wrong on where it came from but was definitely a shit box engine to begin with.
The 307 was not outsourced from mexico. Chevy V8 in Flint, Mich. Produced most of them among other U.S plants. McKinnon industries in canada may have also produced the 307. The mexican small blocks didn't appear until some time in the early 80's. Both 305 & 350.
@Rick Campbell i don't know why the 307 has such a bad rep, It was the economy small block of its day. 283 bore 327 stroke. It bridged the gap between the I6 and the 350. It was only offered as a 2bbl. Very reliable long lived engine.There were so many 350s at the time it never made sense to run anything smaller for performance builds.I use to crew on an opel GT modified drag car and we used the 307 block/ 302 large journal crank with a slight overbore to get to 288ci. Liberty 5 speed. 10,500 rpm no prob! Valve springs didn't last long and had to be changed often. K motion spring were the best. Anyway, I will build a 307 anyday compared to a 305. The 305 is without a doubt the worst small block ever.
I wonder why they never said how much it cost to fix the block.
sleeve can be costly and not used by motor builders replace block will work better in long run and u can bore what ever you need less work and save you $
Bacon ftw!
how did you put the red "paint" on your sockets ?
L89 is what you should have built.
396 CID Chevy big block. There are very few of these left. They have a bad trait of throwing rods.
I want to modify my car too... What if I make a deal from 500,000 dollar? Please let me know My Car is 90s GMC
No rectangular port heads like the real 375? Looks like you going to have some decent compression thereAny of you guys remember the 'BORG AND BECK' style pressure plate? need some SERIOUS leg strength for that PP but yeah it gripped much better than the diaphragmGET SOME HEADERS FOR THAT BABY!!!!!!!HIGH COMPRESSION AND SOLID CAM WITH EXH. MANIFOLDS, COME ON !!!
thats not how it came from the factory. that why they did none of those thing. are you paying attention to what there saying???? the want to build a factory ss car like it came back then
They mentioned the L-78 so the REAL L-78 had rect. port heads, great build but they could/should have just mentioned that they would install a BB conversion and forgotten the L-78 --502 would be a transplant
Could have put in a TKO500
Why does rick look like Ike from carsandcameras
I would have tracked down an engine that wouldn’t have needed a sleeve.
Like they said, one doesn't find out such things until they strip it down.
11:52 was when the earthquake hit
Lol!
How ironic it’s just the the build me and my dad did lol
11:47
The rona quarintine has me here. I'm not disappointed
Good grief. Auto to manual conversion, solid lifter cam, who are you building this for, the Amish?
?
@@natersalad889 I understand that this is not a restoration.
They used red loctite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, God help whoever has to replace that clutch down the road from now
You should always use red on fly wheel bolts. Literally just had a car in with ARPs (who recomemd their loctite or red loctite) with blue loctite. 5 of 6 had come loose. He thought his granny was trashed.
That is not a real l78 because I had a couple of them and I had them apart and they have 4 bolt Main they have square Port heads which neither do you have so few people either don't know what you're talkin about plus they have a 780 Holly on them and a solid lifter camshaft I know do the research
that's NOT an L-78.....this isn't a hi-po block as it has 2 bolt mains
Why do I love these shows so much? I don't really know. I just know I can't stop watching
I like how they treat the audience like we have a brain and can understand basic concepts.
For me pure nostalgia
Whoever sold you that holed 402 engine was laughing all the way to the bank. You spent a lot of machining time and money to make that boat anchor run again. If the block was numbers matching....OK...but otherwise throw that POS away and start with a decent block.
These guys suck, they're reading tele promoters, and don't have a clue. Nice show, of why most of us pay good money to old timers to build engines properly.
Remmeber watching this and horse power on spike tv
xXcashXx3 I remember when Lou Santiago was the original host of this show
Trucks! with Stacey David was the shit back then 15 years ago
It was called something different before Spike TV,
I can't remember what it was right now.
Surprised they just hammered that sleeve in without freezing it first.
ya, I was a little concerned when they did that....i'm used to seeing machine shops doing the machine word so that warming the block and freezing the sleeve are the usual......
@@mikespillman3075 I thought that sleeves had to be pressed in?
Freeze the sleeve and put sealer in the cylinder since its to water.
Yeah. AFAIK the standard procedure is to freeze the sleeve, heat the block, then press in the sleeve.
I suppose production schedules and budget limitations sometimes overrule processes.
@@ChristopherGaul press/hammer meh apparently
When you measured main bearing bore with bearings,you stated that the clearance was 24,26 and 29. Tolerances are the correct terminology are crucial and new engine builders might take that as .024,.026 and .029, when in fact it’s +.0024,+.0026 and +.0029 and the diameter should be stated as plus 2 and 4 tenths of a thousandth and so on for each diameter and written +.0024. And when checking diameter of mains and pins,you should always check in 2 places at 90 degrees from each other,this will not only show undersize diameters,it will also show egg shape of diameters if present.And you HAVE to measure in tenths of a thousandth if you want accuracy,if your micrometers don’t read in tenths,I suggest that you get them and have an experienced tool and die maker or a good machinist teach you how to correctly use and read a micrometer,this aspect of building engines is the most crucial part,and you’ll gain more respect,and I agree with the knowledgeable people on here,that block is a boat anchor,gonna be a hot spot there and I sure as hell didn’t like how easy that sleeve pressed in.
3:31
They had to put a clean shirt on this guy, he had chips & mayo all over the one he was wearing.
Don't believe that I've build hundreds never had oling issue
Or gaulded bearing
People still watch this heavily scripted silliness with all the silly camera zooms and stuff?
Remember “shady tree mechanics”? That was one of the 1st shows from way back then...
jon doe yes, i really liked that show! I wish i could watch the reruns for that show.
jon doe don't you mean "Shade Tree Mechanics"???
If you did, I remember that show, Sam Memolo and Dave are still doing the show but it's got a New name, it's now called "2 Guys Garage"
Karl Smith oh ok yes! I will check that out Thanks!
Karl Smith whatever.. don’t matter, everyone knows what show I am talking about.
8:04 God dang it Boom Howard!!!😂😂😂😂
Impressive. But just think that an electric motor requires none of this stuff. This will become a lost art over time.
I think it already has become just that
I'm a little stumped as to why in God's name anyone would ever consider installing a sleeve in a lowly bottom end 396 ? Was it just because you could ? Why not just get a replacement block ? Now unless it's a number's matching L78 why bother ? Hey wasn't the mighty L78 a 4 bolt main motor ? I'm just checking if maybe I'm off ? Now you see with the plentiful selection of great performing cheap street aluminum head's out there to choose from why in Gods name would anyone opt for the iron heads ?
The answer is simple, the 1970 -1972 Camaros had a 402 BB Chevy motor, as these guys were trying to recreate that era car, that's why they salvaged the 402 they purchased rather than just dropping in a 454 like everyone else. The fact it wasn't a 4 bolt mains is neither here nor there, in order to create an L78. It's hard to find a 4 bolt 396/402 so you have to work with what you can get. Don't knock it dude. The use of iron heads wouldn't be my choice, but the original car had these so why not. Yes they are not rectangular ports but for street use, the oval ports from that era have proved better for street use.
exelente video. muy instructivo y completo. los felicito gracias por compartir sus conocimientos abrazos desde argentina.
These shows were and are awesome. All of them. “Trucks” “extreme 4X4” “horsepower tv” and the others I can’t remember the name of are all great shows.
jon doe I especially miss X-treme 4x4, especially when Jessi Combs was co-hosting the show with Ian
R.I.P.: Jessi Combs
@@karlsmith2570 yep...was suprised when I heard about her passing. It's sad.
John O'Neill ok, now why would my “nose be brown”?
What a dream--a large, clean garage with heat and a concrete floor, immaculate engines surrounded by plenty of open space to work in, and all the tools necessary. Paradise.
Yep! :( ... I swapped an old tired straight 6, with a 350 chevy small block, and a TH350 transition. SO? All custom fabricated mounts brackets etc. Oh and I did all the "on vehicle" work, l OUSIDE in the winter, (In Canada)
Did anyone else notice that they soaked the solid lifters in motor oil? lol
A L78 396 with 2 bolt mains ? My 68 Camaro came with L78 came with 4 bolt mains
Good eyes man......it's not an L78 then.
They literally stated that this was a 402 from a GMC, it’s just rebuilt to L78 specs
Not an L78, this is 325 hp at best. L78, came square port heads and aluminum intake with 4 bolt mains
I was wondering as to why they decided to bolt cast-iron heads back on, instead of going for modern aluminum ones
Love watching all your builds you're doing a great job on this one look forward to seeing it all put together keep it safe and keep the rubber on the road.
reading from a TelePrompter does not make you a mechanic.
Is it just me or was the machining terrible on this block. The one cylinder looked like it still had big scores in it
I thought the same thing! Even when they resurfaced the deck it looked like garbage. They even showed the damaged after it was ''finished''!
k w not just you, the sleeving method they did was the worst you could. My local shop says this method hasnt been used by them since the 1980s. Its outdated.
I used those roller rockers on my 800 HP race motor they lasted 6 years there pretty dam strong !
I remember in auto mechanics class in high school my teacher had us mix STP oil treatment 50/50 with motor oil for assembly lube.
I did NOT see a condenser hanging on that distributor.. now did I ??
Should have built are 427.
Same weight, same price.
That would have been overkill, given that the Camaro was based on the later Chevrolet Novas
I've owned a 66 chevelle since 1971..the 396 is not a perfect.motor..made to run on 96 oct.leaded gas and the heads. Well all or nothin.10.to 1 comp.hard to play with 91 octane.and the cams can be unruly. Last thing.will break valvesprings and rocker arms at 6k..be careful. Not a granny motor.
Block material missing between liner repair on deck face at 3.30 hope the HG fire ring is not running over this, and star lock washers on flywheel bolts are you kidding ? and that liner replacement procedure is a bit suspect, RED Loctite has no place on fasteners that need removal later down the line , a medium compound thread lock adhesive is more than capable RED is too permanent and certainly not used in those quantities seen in this vid
Denso ,
I did some work on.my mower deck, I used lots of red locktite on.my bolts, I should never have to replace them though. I patched a bad spot with steel and bolted it in place . tried that before and bolts came lose this time they won't move at all
The material you saw was where the valve relief was ... when they machine it back in it will blend with the sleeves
HA - watching the guy without any safety glasses and right down next to the machine whilst it is decking the block makes for GREAT viewing. HA - CRAZY.
Man, great vids! I love these types of shows. No fuzz, no non-sense. Just the processes as they go
Outstanding work! Looking forward to seeing the car in paint and coming together.
I always clean my flywheel one last time before installing the clutch
I love this. I always learn something and theres just something soothing about working on a car
If your gonna da an L78, might wanna start with an L78 block, 4 bolt main💪
It's debatable if the 4 bolt main is much of an improvement over 2 bolt main on a BBC, it's more of a benefit for SBC. Plus you could just machine it for four bolt mains, the block casting are the same, with BBC and SBC. It's just like the valve relief it was only done on factory rec port BBC.
Do these heads flow exactly the same as the original 3919840 heads?
My uncle had a 1967 L78 with headers and the block had been decked, back in 1970s, people came out of the woodwork to try to outrun him, nobody did.
He raced 440 six packs, 454s, 427s, 389s, etc.
Nobody came close to outrunning him,
The motor finally broke the frame on the left side on a 66 Chevelle (what he had it in).
. 023/.024 for main bearing clearance????? Ive not looked it up yet, but sounds sloppier than a ground beef/tomato sauce sandwich. Wouldn't it have very low top end oil pressure with clearances like that? Not to mention sounding like a diesel???
So, I'm assuming you meant .0023 and .0024. Big difference between 2thousanths(or3 thousands) and twenty three. I know you guys are top notch but I wanted to clarify this for the youngsters and first time builders
Why bother with the 396? You could take a 454, even stroke it to a 496, and externally, it would be identical to the 396. The whole car is not numbers matching anyway, and not really a RS/SS also, so upgrade to a 454 or 496, and enjoy the extra power! Also a few more small things about your assembly techniques.. you should do the final loading of the crank thrust in a forward direction for the tightening of the rear main, as the clutch pushes forward. As for the heads, without the square pipe plug on the heads, they don’t look stock at all. A cooler thing to do would have been to use aluminum heads, cut off the old pipe plug from the cast iron heads, glue them to the aluminum heads, and paint them the same as the block! That would be sweet. Big blocks save a ton of weight going with aluminum heads!
I will never use red locktight in a flywheel blot again! After spending a weekend under a vehicle, trying to get the bolts Back out! A torch, and several different sockets, I almost had to drill them out... I guess it could been poor quality bolts but I think blue loctight will work just fine!!
These guys are full of it. If that hole and crack isn't repaired, that crack will continue until the block splits. With heat and stress its only a matter of time. Sleeving is a great fix to those old blocks, but that crack has to be relieved and welded. Then and only then should you bore to proper sleeve size. Otherwise, you're just wasting money.
Disappointed you used a 2 bolt main block.all 375s had 4 bolt main blocks. Another option would be the factory aluminum head to save 100 lbs off front end
can someone edu. me? what is the difference between 396/400/402 and 427/454? Just bigger bore/stroke? thanks.
The 400 was a small-block. The 402 was a slightly overbored 396. The 427 shared the 396/402 stroke with a bigger bore. The 454 was a 427 with more stroke.
On top of that there were tall and short deck variants.
It's sad to think about all that unnecessary scrapping of legendary blocks, because nobody was sleeving them back then. Or at least, I've never heard of anybody doing that, decades ago
L78 engines were 4 bolt main engines, this of coourse a 2 bolt main, so it is not an L78, also the pistons are flat top, the L78 had closed chambered popup pistons, and of course, the heads on this engine are NOT correct. and the cam is not the one found in the L 78 The engine might be great, and just as powerful, or perhaps even more powerful, but it is not an L78 "spec" engine
Such great amusement in these shows. Just enough info for the shade tree hacks to FUBAR a project. Then the family suffers because it cost them to fall behind on the trailer payments. Pay attention or pay cash!
Am I the only person to ever apply some high pressure grease to the ball/socket mount for the clutch release fork? These guys sure didn't show it, or mention it...
6:25 Tommy stop lying to people. I used 20w50 cheap motor oil when I rebuild my 96 Tahoe 5.7. I did not burn up my bearings. There are guys on youtube who use plain motor oil all the time.
I used STP Oil Treatment (the thick stuff) when I rebuild the bottom on a Chevy Small block ... no problems! :)
@@MikeBaxterABC Sure you do.
I tend to use gear oil, it is thick enough to stay on for a while. And I dip the pistons in engine oil. I also prelube using a drill.
@@scottdowney4318 To spin up the oil pump?
@@MikeBaxterABC yes, I figure out an adapter to make that work. I think it is an old large screwdriver that is missing the handle. It takes a lot of power to spin that pump, so I use a 1/2 inch drill.
I have watched plenty PowerNation shows and they have all been good, but this episode is the best one I have seen by far, Tommy had some great content and explanations
In my opinion the holes in the wall of the block is a death sentence for any high performance engine use. Also I would have ground out the holes and patched the holes somhow. I unfortunately do not have a million $ speed shop at my disposal. This engine is a ticking time bomb with this type of damage.
That dam block was junk shit lol
Ive scrapped better lookin stuff than that LOL
The show was much better when they had Lou Santiago. Rick is extremely boring.
They should have showed us how they filled that hole in the cylinder.....the sleeve alone can't take the heat and pressure of compression not to mention the power stroke......
What is the compression ratio on those pistons? (I couldn't find it in the link) Looks really high. Will it run on pump gas?
Factory specs were 11x1
A stock L78 is 11.5:1 compression.
NO on pump gas, I have a 472 Cadillac with 10.5:1 compression that I have to add one gallon of 114 octane to the tank each time I fill it up.
I have a 11.5:1 BBC that I plan to run on E85 with one ounce of Klotz 2-stroke oil per gallon.
What do you mean otherwise? Lmao.
Should've get 6 speed for that thing
Looking at other cycles walls, wonder if ring cut a groove in the wall of the engine, put off balance one sleeve.
The correct procedure to install a camshaft is :
1. Before you bolt the block to the engine stand.
2. Stand the block, on it's bellhousing.
3. With the block vertical, NOW INSTALL the CAMSHAFT CORRECTLY.
Some sort of handle helps when installing the camshaft horizontally.