I learned alot on how to do certain things on this motor by watching this video. Thanks for making it. I wish I knew what tool I need to remove the paw pulley on the front of the crank to replace that oil seal. These Honda motors are garbage. That's why people are always working on them. I have a brand new machine fg110 Honda gx25 I bought new and used once then stored it for a few years and went to use it and after replacing the carb, plug, bulb, oil, found it has 0 compression. I took the motor apart and found the problem in the rings. A brand new Honda motor that has piston ring issues Lol. Im done buying over priced crap ill buy the cheapest I can find from now on because nothing last long anymore.
I learned an interesting way to eliminate the press fit issue. If you have, or can get access to a small toaster oven. Take the part that needs to be pressed into, in this case the push-rod, and heat it to somewhere between 300 and 350 degrees. Usually takes around a half hour to heat depending on the size and composition of the part. This causes it to expand enough that the pin will just slide right in. Make sure you have everything ready, then remember to wear some good gloves and remove the push-rod and place the piston in position and slide in the pin. hold in place for a bit while the push-rod cools and contracts and bingo, no pressing and everything is seated. You can practice this with other similar press fits if you have old parts laying around to help you perfect the process. Cheers!
That’s great advice! I’ve been doing that on some chainsaw bearings I’ve been working on. You heat up what needs to expand and chill what you want to shrink. Then they can fit together.
in the Toyota 4age engine and its variants, you are supposed to heat up an oil bath to 80 degrees Celsius, and the wristpin/gudgeon pin slides right out with light tapping. Not having a hotplate and saucepan I didn't want to ruin with boiled engine oil, I simply oiled up the parts, and put them in a painters tin, boiled a kettle of water and poured it in. Boiled a second kettle of water, poured out the first water and poured in the new boiling water and let it sit for 5 minutes and with thick rubber gloves I pulled the now maybe 90 degrees Celsius piston and rod out, and the water evaporates almost instantly, and the wrist pin just taps out.
There is a lot of editing that goes on to get a watchable video. I probably used atf or zoom spout. I sometimes wait until after assembly with the liquid gasket and just put some down the plug hole
Check the carb fuel adjuster Needles when fuel sits in a carb it can damage or plug up some of the fuel passages also for the first run I’d probably run it full rich and then start to work your way back to a normal fuel mixture
@@Man-Time you can soak the carb to dissolve the residue inside, and also check the diaphragm in the carb, I had some which had been dried up by ethanol in the gas (always use non ethanol in small engines) and there were some small holes in it. New carb from Amazon and the engine were as good as new.
The new carbs on Amazon actually have adjustments. Also not sure if you were using ethanol-free gas but that makes a huge difference in the life of the engine.
The repair was all for not. These one piece aluminum head assemblies use a anodized coating to strengthen and resist against heat. The intake valve and seat were burned so much the anodize was gone and in the head it looked porous. I tried to lap it down but it just cut grooves in both mating surfaces. New tech to save money 👎
Hi. Thank you for your video. I am a newby, (mostly 2 stroke works, amateur backyard techy)so I am different from others who wrote the comments (sound like all the experts/professionals, know what bits go where) But I have my own feedback: I am more focused on the subject matter. So my expectation is toward the engine bits, how to to pull them apart, how to put them back on again. Some times I see more of your arm in front of camera. In case you plan to produce your next video, is it possible to set up the camera in front of your chest? So the camera will only record what going on while you are explaining.(your explanations have been very thorough though, thank you)
Thank you for the comment! I agree that I should do a better job of setting up a camera studio bench of sorts for these type of videos for the precise dissy and assy stuff. Sorry if you got stuck somewhere and hopefully you did get some good info. 👍
Thank you for the comment! I agree that I should do a better job of setting up a camera studio bench of sorts for these type of videos for the precise dissy and assy stuff. Sorry if you got stuck somewhere and hopefully you did get some good info. 👍
@@Man-Time When I pull my throttle hard and fast from idle to max rpm the engine bogs is it because of the engine or carb, but when I pull the throttle slowly or gentle the engine reaches max rpm the engine runs smoothly and accelerates smoothly too, and no bogging at max rpm only bogging when I pull the throttle hard and fast from idle to the max is it the carb or engine or is it just normal? another question is how can I stop the anodized coating on my gx25 valves from burning off?
I would say to run it richer but the carb isn’t adjustable. It’s not an option. I think it’s just designed to fail eventually. Coatings wear off and then it’s toast
The arrow side of the piston is on the carburettor side and not the exhaust side, unlike other traditional brands like Stihl and Husqvarna (2 stroke engine). I couldn't understand why only Honda wanted to do this.
By the way of watching video. This instant gasket is not for crankcase area, and would need to use proper gasket. As you may get pressed out excess of gasket seal out and in. And if get pressed in, it may block oil channel inside and may reduce or stop lubrication of engine. That would be deadly bad for engine
The liquid gasket was how it was sealed from the factory. Many new engines call out for liquid gaskets. My Subaru engine has liquid gaskets for the valve cover and main case. It’s poor design for sure
@@Man-Time on factory they do that by robot and more likely is measured how much seal to put on, not to get too much. But this on my opinion is not quality built. I was doing taping much longer to get back smooth surfaces. Maybe your motor got overheated?
I did check and set the valve clearance. You are right that would cause the engine not to run if I didn’t. I apologize if that part wasn’t filmed or time lapsed
I would say, that before fit new gudgeon pin, would need to measure if that is same size as old, as it supposed to move in crankarm, and when in motion, soft metal between gudgeon pin and crankarm working as bearing. If that seat tight, like yours, or is burned after overheating, then gudgeon pin moving in area where are pinston seats, that is bad. After fitting gudgeon pin stop rings in to piston grooves, gudgeon pin is not moving left to right any more, but it suppost to move in to crankarm. And what I wanted to see from your video, comprising old piston rings with new. And comparison compression before and after
The pins were identical dimensionally. The original wrist pin was a press fit and didn’t even have keepers on either side of the piston. So that was by design also. Engineers these days use a DFEM principle Design For Ease of Manufacturing. Some of us still subscribe to KISS method and design for ease of repair, but we are few and far between. Welcome to Man Time!
He did lap them in part one and lapping alone is not a cure-all for valves no matter how bad of shape they might be in. Sometimes valve seats and valves need to be cut and dressed properly with stones or the valves and seats just need to be replaced.
I learned alot on how to do certain things on this motor by watching this video. Thanks for making it. I wish I knew what tool I need to remove the paw pulley on the front of the crank to replace that oil seal.
These Honda motors are garbage. That's why people are always working on them. I have a brand new machine fg110 Honda gx25 I bought new and used once then stored it for a few years and went to use it and after replacing the carb, plug, bulb, oil, found it has 0 compression. I took the motor apart and found the problem in the rings. A brand new Honda motor that has piston ring issues Lol. Im done buying over priced crap ill buy the cheapest I can find from now on because nothing last long anymore.
Yeah it’s a real problem when you spend more $ and think you’re buying a better widget but you’re not
that is really nice. Thanks for posting .
I learned an interesting way to eliminate the press fit issue. If you have, or can get access to a small toaster oven. Take the part that needs to be pressed into, in this case the push-rod, and heat it to somewhere between 300 and 350 degrees. Usually takes around a half hour to heat depending on the size and composition of the part. This causes it to expand enough that the pin will just slide right in. Make sure you have everything ready, then remember to wear some good gloves and remove the push-rod and place the piston in position and slide in the pin. hold in place for a bit while the push-rod cools and contracts and bingo, no pressing and everything is seated. You can practice this with other similar press fits if you have old parts laying around to help you perfect the process. Cheers!
That’s great advice! I’ve been doing that on some chainsaw bearings I’ve been working on. You heat up what needs to expand and chill what you want to shrink. Then they can fit together.
Too bad. I have that exact same engine and haven’t really used it too often. I guess I’ll just try to mess with it as well. Thanks for the vids!
Usually to resolve low compression they just need the valves re-lapped.
in the Toyota 4age engine and its variants, you are supposed to heat up an oil bath to 80 degrees Celsius, and the wristpin/gudgeon pin slides right out with light tapping. Not having a hotplate and saucepan I didn't want to ruin with boiled engine oil, I simply oiled up the parts, and put them in a painters tin, boiled a kettle of water and poured it in. Boiled a second kettle of water, poured out the first water and poured in the new boiling water and let it sit for 5 minutes and with thick rubber gloves I pulled the now maybe 90 degrees Celsius piston and rod out, and the water evaporates almost instantly, and the wrist pin just taps out.
That sounds right. I went in blind
The cylinder has a tapper in it it compresses the rings
I didn't see you use any assembly lube. Did you pretty much dry start it other than the crankcase oil?
There is a lot of editing that goes on to get a watchable video. I probably used atf or zoom spout. I sometimes wait until after assembly with the liquid gasket and just put some down the plug hole
Check the carb fuel adjuster Needles when fuel sits in a carb it can damage or plug up some of the fuel passages also for the first run I’d probably run it full rich and then start to work your way back to a normal fuel mixture
This model has the non adjustable type carb. Thanks epa👎
@@Man-Time you can soak the carb to dissolve the residue inside, and also check the diaphragm in the carb, I had some which had been dried up by ethanol in the gas (always use non ethanol in small engines) and there were some small holes in it. New carb from Amazon and the engine were as good as new.
The new carbs on Amazon actually have adjustments. Also not sure if you were using ethanol-free gas but that makes a huge difference in the life of the engine.
Update, how is going with smoke during usage after repair?As on video looks like excessive smoke some time.
The repair was all for not. These one piece aluminum head assemblies use a anodized coating to strengthen and resist against heat. The intake valve and seat were burned so much the anodize was gone and in the head it looked porous. I tried to lap it down but it just cut grooves in both mating surfaces. New tech to save money 👎
Honda bond is the fatctory sealent
Why does the exhaust rocker have an extra push while compression start?
I set the valve clearance gap correctly. Maybe just a function of the 4 stroke cam
Hi. Thank you for your video. I am a newby, (mostly 2 stroke works, amateur backyard techy)so I am different from others who wrote the comments (sound like all the experts/professionals, know what bits go where) But I have my own feedback: I am more focused on the subject matter. So my expectation is toward the engine bits, how to to pull them apart, how to put them back on again. Some times I see more of your arm in front of camera. In case you plan to produce your next video, is it possible to set up the camera in front of your chest? So the camera will only record what going on while you are explaining.(your explanations have been very thorough though, thank you)
Thank you for the comment! I agree that I should do a better job of setting up a camera studio bench of sorts for these type of videos for the precise dissy and assy stuff. Sorry if you got stuck somewhere and hopefully you did get some good info. 👍
Thank you for the comment! I agree that I should do a better job of setting up a camera studio bench of sorts for these type of videos for the precise dissy and assy stuff. Sorry if you got stuck somewhere and hopefully you did get some good info. 👍
@@Man-Time When I pull my throttle hard and fast from idle to max rpm the engine bogs is it because of the engine or carb, but when I pull the throttle slowly or gentle the engine reaches max rpm the engine runs smoothly and accelerates smoothly too, and no bogging at max rpm only bogging when I pull the throttle hard and fast from idle to the max is it the carb or engine or is it just normal?
another question is how can I stop the anodized coating on my gx25 valves from burning off?
I would say to run it richer but the carb isn’t adjustable. It’s not an option. I think it’s just designed to fail eventually. Coatings wear off and then it’s toast
The arrow side of the piston is on the carburettor side and not the exhaust side, unlike other traditional brands like Stihl and Husqvarna (2 stroke engine). I couldn't understand why only Honda wanted to do this.
By the way of watching video. This instant gasket is not for crankcase area, and would need to use proper gasket. As you may get pressed out excess of gasket seal out and in. And if get pressed in, it may block oil channel inside and may reduce or stop lubrication of engine. That would be deadly bad for engine
The liquid gasket was how it was sealed from the factory. Many new engines call out for liquid gaskets. My Subaru engine has liquid gaskets for the valve cover and main case. It’s poor design for sure
@@Man-Time on factory they do that by robot and more likely is measured how much seal to put on, not to get too much. But this on my opinion is not quality built.
I was doing taping much longer to get back smooth surfaces. Maybe your motor got overheated?
hi you did not check or adjust the valve clearance after lapping the valves that would result in the valves not closing fully
I did check and set the valve clearance. You are right that would cause the engine not to run if I didn’t. I apologize if that part wasn’t filmed or time lapsed
I thought you were going to show how you set the timing... Damn
Thought for sure the timing was in there.
How long did this project take overall please?
Way longer than my time is worth! Lol! Like 8-10 hours with the filming. It’s hard to say time savings not filming.
Thank you for responding & thank you for doing the video.
Tell the piston ring when it comes home by sitting
Clever
Fuel filter restriction
I would say, that before fit new gudgeon pin, would need to measure if that is same size as old, as it supposed to move in crankarm, and when in motion, soft metal between gudgeon pin and crankarm working as bearing. If that seat tight, like yours, or is burned after overheating, then gudgeon pin moving in area where are pinston seats, that is bad. After fitting gudgeon pin stop rings in to piston grooves, gudgeon pin is not moving left to right any more, but it suppost to move in to crankarm. And what I wanted to see from your video, comprising old piston rings with new. And comparison compression before and after
The pins were identical dimensionally. The original wrist pin was a press fit and didn’t even have keepers on either side of the piston. So that was by design also. Engineers these days use a DFEM principle Design For Ease of Manufacturing. Some of us still subscribe to KISS method and design for ease of repair, but we are few and far between. Welcome to Man Time!
Lap the valves
He did lap them in part one and lapping alone is not a cure-all for valves no matter how bad of shape they might be in. Sometimes valve seats and valves need to be cut and dressed properly with stones or the valves and seats just need to be replaced.
Installing china made piston 😁