Very informative video. Personally I haven’t been able to justify the leap in price from upper Tier 2 (C&J Handgrade, Cheaney Imperial etc) to Tier 1 yet but I would likely start with G&G as their shoes are works of art. On the other hand, I’ve never been sold on Edward Green. Seems like a poor value proposition vs C&J handgrade and I can’t really figure out what I’m getting for the premium paid.
I understand that. Part of the reason I’ve been reticent to pull the trigger on a pair of dovers. At this level if it doesn’t feel like art, why bother?
Wi Shoeguy - a stella video! You've introduced tier 1 shoes and I'm taken. I cannot afford tier 1 shoes (yet) but I really loved the St Crispins. Should we anticipate a tier 2 video? Tony
Yes. I’ll probably need at least a Week for that and I’ve got a couple unboxing to do in between. I’m also doing some shoe battles on European Adelaides and Split toes that will drop tonight. 13 brands each. Should be interesting. Lots coming.
Fiddleback waists and / or pegged waists are definitely more expensive to recraft. Great call out! . Though with my rotation I don’t have a lot of recrafting to do. I’ll talk to some cobblers and get some estimates to share on a follow up.
Thats a great question. I have a Meermin Norvegese welt that after thinking about it got me settled on that same question. Local cobbler is worthless so gonna have to mail off when the time comes
Hey Wi Shoeguy, you have a lot of knowledge. I think it would be amazing if you had a blog? I'd love to be able to pin point your recommendations for Tier 1 shoe brands... like GG, EG, JL, etc., and which you like the best and then your Tier 2 brands... etc., What are you thoughts on Archibald London? I'm seeing them come up in the handwelting scene.
Lovely Bemer shoes! Thank you. However, I find no explanation as to why Edward Green, for instance, would be better than, say, Barbanera. Edward Green uses thermoplastic in the heels and gemming technique with a textile piece. The leathers are very good but so are even Meermins Linea Maestro leathers. Antonio Meccariello seems to make much more well made shoes than Edward Green. Shoes should no be categorised with using price as a prime determining factor.
The tier system is just about price and the grade system will be all about quality. In the end though I won’t compare a factory made shoe with a handmade shoe. The gemming (canvas) is the hallmark Goodyear welted shoes which are mass produced. iMhO the best of these are Edward green and GG. It’s actually about the quality of the leather, the craftmanship and design. Meccariello makes these type of shoes too in his Aeris line. I’ve owned some vintage Florsheim shoes that were 55 years old and the gemming still fine so I have a hard time saying it impacts enduring quality. Bemer and the top line of AM, Saint Cripins, Enzo, Vass and Paolo Scafora are all hand welted and sew the insole directly to the welt and don’t have canvas.
@@wishoeguy Thanks for your reply. I think gemming is a shameful technique. Edward Green is in no way better while using the gemming technique than anybody else. Thermoplastic is also a disgusting thing. Edward Green does have some good looking shoes but they are horribly overvalued at around €800. People praise them so much because they’re proud to be able to afford them while others cannot. My Greens are fine but nothing to brag about. My Meermin Linea Maestro inspire more confidence at one week in. There is no way I am paying €800 for gemmed shoes with thermoplastic at the toes and heel. If I feel the need to show off, I‘ll buy a golden Rolex which I don’t think I will want to.
I’m unclear what you mean about thermoplastic. I do know that the gemming is glued to the insoles but don’t know of any heated plastic except what they do over the upper for sole work, which is just protection for the upper and I believe all others do this as well. The heel counters and toe reinforcements on EG are sewn and leather, not plastic or paper (per the guys ive met who make the shoes or have been on factory tours) just like the LM line at Meermin. Don’t get me wrong, £800-£1200 is a ton to spend on shoes both in general and on any one specific pair. While I’ve found discounted or slightly used pairs to try EG, I can’t honestly say that any of my Meermin really measure up. I’m talking about the Norwegian split toe stitching because that’s what I have in many brands. The EG stitching is in line with Acme, Saint Crispins, Gaziano & Girling and Paolo Scafora in quality of the stitch. I don’t have Bemer in this style yet. The skin stitch toe, the apron density and finishing it next level compared to other hand welted options from Vass, Oct Tenth, Yeossal, Enzo Bonafe, and Meermin LM. These are all beautiful and solidly constructed shoes. The GG and EG are the only GYW among them. The gemming is glued but nothing else is held only by glue. What do you mean by thermoplastic? these are not like a thermo fused suit. I’m a little lost by what you mean and want to learn. Thanks.
@@wishoeguy Hi, thanks for your words. I’m very happy to learn about and discuss shoes with shoe lovers who are not pretentious or engage in war-like rhetoric. Thermoplastic is what is found in many shoes in the heel counter and the toe box, placed there to maintain structure. It is no deal breaker and almost all my shoes probably have it. But I think it is a disaster to sell a shoe for €800 or more to save €5 on a leather heel. Also, thermoplastic can break over time and ruin the shoe. Maybe Edward Green has stopped using those but they have in used it in the past which I have been told by my shoemaker who I am friends with. Gemming technique is a shameful „innovation“. It turns the shoe unnecessarily wobbly, especially over time and it may tear and shoemakers can have a hard time repairing it as they may not hit the existing holes while resoling. Handwelting is much better. Also, in Germany, where I‘m living, seasoned shoemakers have told me they do not like the stapling which comes with the gemming canvas - it causes the shoe to rot. Alternatives are handwelting or using many nails which used to be the German way of shoemaking. I cannot comment on stitching on Norwegian split toes - it is not my favourite style - I prefer a shoe to shine (pun intended) through its excellent, deep gloss only achievable via very good leather and a beautiful last. The only ornament I allow myself is tassel loafers and, of course, brogues. I prefer shoes other than black. Interestingly, C&J lasts tend to fit me very well but I‘m not buying those anymore. I love the Meccariello lasts and leathers - really need to acquire some soon! Have a good day! 👋🏻
Thanks. I have worked with a number of quality guys over the years. There is a cool group on facebook many of the pros belong to. North American Shoe Repair. If you’re looking for someone that’s the place id look.
True. Their website is confusing if it’s traditional handwelted because they refer to the outsole stitching as Goodyear welt which it’s not. Goodyear is the linen gemming. If there is a channel on the insole (which there is in some pics and not in others and it’s never stitched) that holds the stitching to the welt instead of the gemming then it’s handwelt. If you do the stitching with machine Meccariello and JimJun call it modified gyw. I know it’s complicated, like a teenage romance.
Hey bud, I love, love your shoe collection, and your knowledge about them. But man, for half the price of one of the shoes in your collection, you could invest in a nice little Sony camera and not have to make videos from the web camera of a laptop. Just some honest advice. Keep up the channel. I suggest a basic Sony RX100 would improve the quality for your channel tremendously.
@@wishoeguy I watched the whole thing. What min. And second did you talk about them. And thanks for the video. I plan on getting the st. James style from gazinio
I’m sorry. I mixed up what video. I did in my last split toe video. I only had EG summer loafers when I recorded this and I didn’t think they were representative of the brand.
Great video!! 👊🏼 Amazing info here.
Excellent dissertation on higher end shoes. Thanks!
That Scafora Norwegian Split Toe has me drooling on my keyboard it’s so beautiful...
Bellissimo!
Thanks
Awesome video again John. Took us on a short trip around Europe covid can’t stop us from traveling the shoe world. Thanks again for a awesome video!
thanks
Thank You Again...... Like Said Before, Shoe Game Is Fantastic.. Thank You For The Education...
Thanks again!
Your shoe game is on point!! 👌🏾
Thanks!
Very informative video. Personally I haven’t been able to justify the leap in price from upper Tier 2 (C&J Handgrade, Cheaney Imperial etc) to Tier 1 yet but I would likely start with G&G as their shoes are works of art. On the other hand, I’ve never been sold on Edward Green. Seems like a poor value proposition vs C&J handgrade and I can’t really figure out what I’m getting for the premium paid.
I understand that. Part of the reason I’ve been reticent to pull the trigger on a pair of dovers. At this level if it doesn’t feel like art, why bother?
Very informative
Super awesome video! Hope you'll do Tiers II, III, IV and so on in the future!
As you saw I have tier 2 mapped out. I’ll get the rest done too. Always takes longer than you expect. Thanks for the feedback.
Hi there, really enjoy your content! Just wanted to say, “Positano” is not a type of calf leather, just the name they give to the patina.
Thanks. My mistake.
Wi Shoeguy - a stella video! You've introduced tier 1 shoes and I'm taken. I cannot afford tier 1 shoes (yet) but I really loved the St Crispins. Should we anticipate a tier 2 video?
Tony
Yes. I’ll probably need at least a Week for that and I’ve got a couple unboxing to do in between. I’m also doing some shoe battles on European Adelaides and Split toes that will drop tonight. 13 brands each. Should be interesting. Lots coming.
@@wishoeguy Appreciate all the time and effort! As and when you are able, I'll be there to watch :-)
Tony
Really cool collection... Have you considered costs for recrafting Norvegese stitched shoes versus similar GYW or blake-stitched?
Fiddleback waists and / or pegged waists are definitely more expensive to recraft. Great call out! . Though with my rotation I don’t have a lot of recrafting to do. I’ll talk to some cobblers and get some estimates to share on a follow up.
Thats a great question. I have a Meermin Norvegese welt that after thinking about it got me settled on that same question. Local cobbler is worthless so gonna have to mail off when the time comes
Hey Wi Shoeguy, you have a lot of knowledge. I think it would be amazing if you had a blog? I'd love to be able to pin point your recommendations for Tier 1 shoe brands... like GG, EG, JL, etc., and which you like the best and then your Tier 2 brands... etc.,
What are you thoughts on Archibald London? I'm seeing them come up in the handwelting scene.
I haven’t had the pleasure of owning an Archibald London. Have to check out a pair.
Lovely Bemer shoes! Thank you. However, I find no explanation as to why Edward Green, for instance, would be better than, say, Barbanera. Edward Green uses thermoplastic in the heels and gemming technique with a textile piece. The leathers are very good but so are even Meermins Linea Maestro leathers. Antonio Meccariello seems to make much more well made shoes than Edward Green. Shoes should no be categorised with using price as a prime determining factor.
The tier system is just about price and the grade system will be all about quality. In the end though I won’t compare a factory made shoe with a handmade shoe. The gemming (canvas) is the hallmark Goodyear welted shoes which are mass produced. iMhO the best of these are Edward green and GG. It’s actually about the quality of the leather, the craftmanship and design. Meccariello makes these type of shoes too in his Aeris line.
I’ve owned some vintage Florsheim shoes that were 55 years old and the gemming still fine so I have a hard time saying it impacts enduring quality.
Bemer and the top line of AM, Saint Cripins, Enzo, Vass and Paolo Scafora are all hand welted and sew the insole directly to the welt and don’t have canvas.
@@wishoeguy Thanks for your reply. I think gemming is a shameful technique. Edward Green is in no way better while using the gemming technique than anybody else. Thermoplastic is also a disgusting thing. Edward Green does have some good looking shoes but they are horribly overvalued at around €800. People praise them so much because they’re proud to be able to afford them while others cannot. My Greens are fine but nothing to brag about. My Meermin Linea Maestro inspire more confidence at one week in.
There is no way I am paying €800 for gemmed shoes with thermoplastic at the toes and heel. If I feel the need to show off, I‘ll buy a golden Rolex which I don’t think I will want to.
I’m unclear what you mean about thermoplastic. I do know that the gemming is glued to the insoles but don’t know of any heated plastic except what they do over the upper for sole work, which is just protection for the upper and I believe all others do this as well. The heel counters and toe reinforcements on EG are sewn and leather, not plastic or paper (per the guys ive met who make the shoes or have been on factory tours) just like the LM line at Meermin. Don’t get me wrong, £800-£1200 is a ton to spend on shoes both in general and on any one specific pair. While I’ve found discounted or slightly used pairs to try EG, I can’t honestly say that any of my Meermin really measure up. I’m talking about the Norwegian split toe stitching because that’s what I have in many brands. The EG stitching is in line with Acme, Saint Crispins, Gaziano & Girling and Paolo Scafora in quality of the stitch. I don’t have Bemer in this style yet. The skin stitch toe, the apron density and finishing it next level compared to other hand welted options from Vass, Oct Tenth, Yeossal, Enzo Bonafe, and Meermin LM. These are all beautiful and solidly constructed shoes. The GG and EG are the only GYW among them. The gemming is glued but nothing else is held only by glue.
What do you mean by thermoplastic? these are not like a thermo fused suit. I’m a little lost by what you mean and want to learn. Thanks.
@@wishoeguy Hi, thanks for your words. I’m very happy to learn about and discuss shoes with shoe lovers who are not pretentious or engage in war-like rhetoric. Thermoplastic is what is found in many shoes in the heel counter and the toe box, placed there to maintain structure. It is no deal breaker and almost all my shoes probably have it. But I think it is a disaster to sell a shoe for €800 or more to save €5 on a leather heel. Also, thermoplastic can break over time and ruin the shoe. Maybe Edward Green has stopped using those but they have in used it in the past which I have been told by my shoemaker who I am friends with.
Gemming technique is a shameful „innovation“. It turns the shoe unnecessarily wobbly, especially over time and it may tear and shoemakers can have a hard time repairing it as they may not hit the existing holes while resoling. Handwelting is much better. Also, in Germany, where I‘m living, seasoned shoemakers have told me they do not like the stapling which comes with the gemming canvas - it causes the shoe to rot.
Alternatives are handwelting or using many nails which used to be the German way of shoemaking.
I cannot comment on stitching on Norwegian split toes - it is not my favourite style - I prefer a shoe to shine (pun intended) through its excellent, deep gloss only achievable via very good leather and a beautiful last. The only ornament I allow myself is tassel loafers and, of course, brogues. I prefer shoes other than black. Interestingly, C&J lasts tend to fit me very well but I‘m not buying those anymore. I love the Meccariello lasts and leathers - really need to acquire some soon!
Have a good day! 👋🏻
Informative as ever! Do you know why Ascot have discontinued their association with Vass?
I’m not sure, but I think they’ve released their own last recently so evolution is an exciting step for them.
Hi
Who does your shoe repairs?
Thanks
Love your channel !
Thanks. I have worked with a number of quality guys over the years. There is a cool group on facebook many of the pros belong to. North American Shoe Repair. If you’re looking for someone that’s the place id look.
Bridlen shoes also don't use gemming
True. Their website is confusing if it’s traditional handwelted because they refer to the outsole stitching as Goodyear welt which it’s not. Goodyear is the linen gemming. If there is a channel on the insole (which there is in some pics and not in others and it’s never stitched) that holds the stitching to the welt instead of the gemming then it’s handwelt. If you do the stitching with machine Meccariello and JimJun call it modified gyw. I know it’s complicated, like a teenage romance.
Hey bud, I love, love your shoe collection, and your knowledge about them. But man, for half the price of one of the shoes in your collection, you could invest in a nice little Sony camera and not have to make videos from the web camera of a laptop. Just some honest advice. Keep up the channel. I suggest a basic Sony RX100 would improve the quality for your channel tremendously.
I have a beautiful Nikon d5600 but the autofocus keeps chopping up. I’m working on this and a sound solution in the new year. Thanks for the feedback.
did he talk about edward green ?
I did
@@wishoeguy I watched the whole thing. What min. And second did you talk about them. And thanks for the video. I plan on getting the st. James style from gazinio
I’m sorry. I mixed up what video. I did in my last split toe video. I only had EG summer loafers when I recorded this and I didn’t think they were representative of the brand.
You can check the English shoes playlist for direction.
@@wishoeguy I’ll go and check it out. Thanks