Finally! Someone makes a video of how to install Foam board Over the lip. I am giving an old shower stall a facelift and I am using Goboard as my backer board but instead of tile, I am going with acrylic shower panels. These panels are thin and flimsy Until glued to the backer board. What I had Not been able to figure out was how the acrylic panels would be supported at the very bottom IF the backer board Stopped at the Top of the lip (I have yet to find a video showing the install of a backer board with the intent to use shower panels). My shower pan is an old Terrazzo with a metal 1” lip. So, with y’alls method of filleting the board, this will solve my problem. Excellent video showing the detail. Many thanks for posting.
Re comment at 2:58... I agree that the board itself will not wick moisture. However, I'm wondering if the capillary action that's supposed as a potential problem in this scenario concerns a wicking of water up the narrow passageways formed between the rough cut inner lip of the foam board and the smooth surface of the tub surround. Nonetheless, I used the same method to solve the problem. I think it's the best compromise available, especially when you take the time to apply a double layer of sealant. Glad to see someone else with more experience than myself came to the same solution. Not official or approved because creating the rebate requires more skill than the average homeowner possesses, and it's highly likely many would end up perforating the face or seriously weakening the leading edge of the board.
This is a great video. I've only done one bathroom and it didn't involve a tub flange but this method seems to make sense to me. The only other idea I had was -- and this may sound nuts but hear me out -- using a small router to cut that edge. When you think about it, it's kind of like cutting a rabbet with a router in wood. You could set the depth, use an edge guide to guide it, just like you would if you were cutting wood and make a smooth rabbet. Now one obvious downside is that it would make a hell of a mess. Maybe you'd need a second person to follow the router with a shop vac, or use a shop vac attachment on the router, etc. but it might work, esp if you could make the cut in a garage or basement room . Maybe it's worth trying in a future video! Your content is great. Thanks.
Must say I really enjoy your videos and you are both awesome at your trade. I prefer to run the board to the flange at it is a fail safe just in case the caulking fails. Considering foam board wont absorb moisture your method is great as well.
Great vid - well put together and easy to follow. Unfortunately, as I'm DIY'ing my tub / shower, I can't afford the $400 - $450 for the system. I'll be using hardibacker, sitting on top of the flange lip, but with 12" self adhesive flashing tape behind the board, down past the flange lip. and 3 feet of 6mil plastic overlapping the flashing tape. ($75.00 for the boards, materials.) I won't run the plastic all the way up the wall, to avoid double vapor barrier problems. Primitive, and more work, but less than a quarter the cost. But if I was doing tiling for a living, I would definitely use all your suggestions. Looks like a way more efficient, easier process.
Instead of flashing tape, you can buy a cheap role of fiberglass mesh band and use liquid waterproofer to install it over top where the flange meets the board
Great job shannon, I've been using this method for years now, so much easier. Now I just use a portable table saw to dato ot the back cause I usually have it set up anyway. I didn't know you were on you tube, glad to see you helping folks do things the right way!
Thanks! yeah that's a great way to do it. For me, I would need to set up the table saw just for that on site and its just not worth it. Thanks for watching !!
I recently had to repair a ceiling because the tub upstairs caulking failed and whoever installed the tub left an empty gap around the tub and water traveled along the lip to the front edge behind wall and onto ceiling downstairs!!!
Fantastic solution Tile Chick. Would you recommend doing the same with Schluter KERDI-BOARD? I'm installaling the tub flenge against drywall due to double leyer fire codes wall in a condo.
Is the raw white foam with no orange membrane still waterproof? I would think like anything, a petroleum product will breakdown over time and could become absorbent?
I would be careful with that drywall compound bleeding over onto that hydro and board. Because that IS a water wicking material I think. So once wet thinset touches the drywall compound then it will travel. You can always test this by adding drywall compound to a scrap and putting half in water
Thanks for the DIY help! Any issues with the waterproof hydro ban board up against a poly vapor barrier? Wasn’t sure if that would trap moisture between the two. I imagine it won’t since the hydroban is waterproof.
Great vid! I have a tricky situation though with a Kohler Archer tub that has an curved flange (extends a 1/2" total). It's not a right angle. I'm using 1/4" wood shim strips and will back bevel the bottom of the foam board a 1/4" similar to what you show in the vid so it will extend into the tub and down to the tub deck. So what's the problem? The flange is curved so there will be a small area where this is nothing since I will be cutting a right angle back bevel to go over a curved flange.. I was thinking about using a gap filler product in this tiny area when pressing the foam board into position to eliminate any potential deflection. Is there a flaw in my logic? I can't find any installation vids that deal with foam board over a curved flange.
I just left your seminar and left a message there so feel free to respond either here or there. You’re using foam here but I have backer board, so where does the backer board come down? Is it on top of the flange or over it? And if so, how do I prevent weeping if it’s over the flange - thanks
Resting the backer on the tub creates a cleaning problem. Backer should butt to the top of the flange, tiles hang down a little below the flange, no silicone required and cleaning is easy.
I don’t remember what they’re called, but there are manual ones that somehow multiply the pressure so you don’t have to squeeze as hard. I bought one to easily dispense concrete epoxy.
If you watch this video from Schluter here, they also accept using sealant to seal the flange and the board th-cam.com/video/hs9w6VEM_pc/w-d-xo.html the only difference we are doing is fileting the back of the board to have the fabric sit over the flange with sealant added to the back and the front similiar to what Schluter suggests for their system. As stated in our video this isn't necessarily in the data sheet directions, but it doesn't mean it will fail.
@@ThatTileChick yeah watched just b4 yours. I guess they drop the board to the tub when there is no flange on the tub. As u say it might be just technicalities. I am particularly concerned about the flange as I am doing an acrylic shower pan with flange.
She said tile and grout is not waterproof. Tile and epoxy grout is. If your not using epoxy make sure you seal your grout. Now just sit whatever board your using on the tub flange. Seal the joint with caulk. Spread the thinset on your first row of tile only where it will make contact with the board and not the tub flange so when the caulk fails (which it will) the water doesn't wick up the thinset. And for the finish edges being flush to the rest of the bathroom wall. Use tile edge trim and whatever gap you have (won't be more than a 1/4 inch to a 3/8 inch) just caulk it. Problem solved.
tile is not waterproof and neither is epoxy grout. cdn.laticrete.com/~/media/product-documents/product-data-sheets/lds0300_spectralock-2000-ig.ashx?la=en&vs=1&d=20171212T164458Z&hash=BB0C2F79B1FA224EF19B2C5B3379258B88C96930 That is the data sheet for a premium industrial grade epoxy grout that states under limitations that it is NOT a replacement for waterproofing. Additionally this board is closed cell EPS foam. Water will not wick up this material at all. Also the sealant is not silicon its a special sealant made just for waterproofing. That's why I always say, check with manufacturer reps and recommendations before making up your own rules.
@@NunYaaBizz Again, water does not penetrate epoxy or porcelain tile. Test it out. To answer your question, waterproof the board because if there's a failure in the grout application you have backup. Also because things like redgard are also a vapor barrier. I never said don't waterproof your board. I said epoxy and tile is waterproof.
@@halflight87 how often do you use epoxy grout? And in what situations? Because they don't use it much in the real world. Just curious. Unless it's a steam shower or your tennis club house with a bunch of showers , usually epoxy grout is not used, it's not even bought that much.
I can confirm that epoxy grout is waterproof and almost bullet proof, but I wouldn’t trust it as a substitute for a waterproof membrane. That would be like playing Russian roulette!
If it not approved by the manufacturer then why are you doing it? That voids the warranty and if it fails you are stuck with the cost of repairs. Stopped watching after that
@@brodeebell7002 took the words out of my mouth lol. Was gonna ask “and how many warranties have you had claims honored on?? On any type of product whatsoever” 😂
This tells me you literally only watched the first 32 seconds of the video which is an introduction so there is music. The only other music in this video is at the end in the outro. Don't like it, don't watch =)
Finally! Someone makes a video of how to install Foam board Over the lip. I am giving an old shower stall a facelift and I am using Goboard as my backer board but instead of tile, I am going with acrylic shower panels. These panels are thin and flimsy Until glued to the backer board. What I had Not been able to figure out was how the acrylic panels would be supported at the very bottom IF the backer board Stopped at the Top of the lip (I have yet to find a video showing the install of a backer board with the intent to use shower panels). My shower pan is an old Terrazzo with a metal 1” lip. So, with y’alls method of filleting the board, this will solve my problem. Excellent video showing the detail. Many thanks for posting.
Re comment at 2:58... I agree that the board itself will not wick moisture. However, I'm wondering if the capillary action that's supposed as a potential problem in this scenario concerns a wicking of water up the narrow passageways formed between the rough cut inner lip of the foam board and the smooth surface of the tub surround. Nonetheless, I used the same method to solve the problem. I think it's the best compromise available, especially when you take the time to apply a double layer of sealant. Glad to see someone else with more experience than myself came to the same solution.
Not official or approved because creating the rebate requires more skill than the average homeowner possesses, and it's highly likely many would end up perforating the face or seriously weakening the leading edge of the board.
I’m learning how to install foam board for a tub surround. After watching a dozen videos, this one makes me most sense. Thank you!!
Glad we could help!
Be careful, some the videos I watched on foam board installs get it wrong in places.
I wish I had seen this video prior to my install. This is a gem!!! I really enjoy your tutorials for the regular DIY'er.
This is a great video. I've only done one bathroom and it didn't involve a tub flange but this method seems to make sense to me. The only other idea I had was -- and this may sound nuts but hear me out -- using a small router to cut that edge. When you think about it, it's kind of like cutting a rabbet with a router in wood. You could set the depth, use an edge guide to guide it, just like you would if you were cutting wood and make a smooth rabbet. Now one obvious downside is that it would make a hell of a mess. Maybe you'd need a second person to follow the router with a shop vac, or use a shop vac attachment on the router, etc. but it might work, esp if you could make the cut in a garage or basement room . Maybe it's worth trying in a future video! Your content is great. Thanks.
Excellent video, what brand/what kind of sealant is used here????? Thanks so much 😊
Must say I really enjoy your videos and you are both awesome at your trade. I prefer to run the board to the flange at it is a fail safe just in case the caulking fails. Considering foam board wont absorb moisture your method is great as well.
Getting ready to install foam backer board & tile in 2 bathrooms. Appreciate these tips!
Great vid - well put together and easy to follow.
Unfortunately, as I'm DIY'ing my tub / shower, I can't afford the $400 - $450 for the system. I'll be using hardibacker, sitting on top of the flange lip, but with 12" self adhesive flashing tape behind the board, down past the flange lip. and 3 feet of 6mil plastic overlapping the flashing tape. ($75.00 for the boards, materials.) I won't run the plastic all the way up the wall, to avoid double vapor barrier problems. Primitive, and more work, but less than a quarter the cost.
But if I was doing tiling for a living, I would definitely use all your suggestions. Looks like a way more efficient, easier process.
I ultimately used the method shown, but the window tape, z flashing idea was the other solution I also contemplated. It seems just as fool proof.
Instead of flashing tape, you can buy a cheap role of fiberglass mesh band and use liquid waterproofer to install it over top where the flange meets the board
cool, never thought of that. Thanks! @@EEJosh8
Try denshield.
What type of screws are you using in the foam board ? Washer needed?
Great job shannon, I've been using this method for years now, so much easier. Now I just use a portable table saw to dato ot the back cause I usually have it set up anyway. I didn't know you were on you tube, glad to see you helping folks do things the right way!
Thanks! yeah that's a great way to do it. For me, I would need to set up the table saw just for that on site and its just not worth it. Thanks for watching !!
I recently had to repair a ceiling because the tub upstairs caulking failed and whoever installed the tub left an empty gap around the tub and water traveled along the lip to the front edge behind wall and onto ceiling downstairs!!!
Awesome point to drive home the fact that tile and grout isn’t water proof - which is why the prep steps are so important.
Fantastic solution Tile Chick. Would you recommend doing the same with Schluter KERDI-BOARD? I'm installaling the tub flenge against drywall due to double leyer fire codes wall in a condo.
What are your thoughts on running the board through a table saw the depth of the tile flange
Wear a respirator and protect yourself from shards - guessing it could be like glass.
Great idea. Have you ever used Go Board and tried this technique?
Following this. Curious if GoBoard my JM is as reliable as HydroBan Board.
Great job!! I wish I saw this video before I installed our shower tile. Oh well. Next time.
Is the raw white foam with no orange membrane still waterproof? I would think like anything, a petroleum product will breakdown over time and could become absorbent?
Isn’t the front orange (tan) part just a fleece to better adhere thinset?
instead of furring out the studs could you just notch the studs an 1/8" and that would absorb the tub flange and make it flush?
I went ahead and put waterproof liquid membrane on the exposed form ends then applied my caulking the manufacture of the foam board required it
Can you use a glue up shower surround with this board?
@ThatTileChick Prior to seeing this video i installed foam board too the tub lip. What would you recommend doing at this point?
I would be careful with that drywall compound bleeding over onto that hydro and board. Because that IS a water wicking material I think. So once wet thinset touches the drywall compound then it will travel. You can always test this by adding drywall compound to a scrap and putting half in water
That confused me. I’m hoping it’s extra hydroban sealant and not drywall mud.
Keep up the amazing work
Thanks for the DIY help! Any issues with the waterproof hydro ban board up against a poly vapor barrier? Wasn’t sure if that would trap moisture between the two. I imagine it won’t since the hydroban is waterproof.
Great vid! I have a tricky situation though with a Kohler Archer tub that has an curved flange (extends a 1/2" total). It's not a right angle. I'm using 1/4" wood shim strips and will back bevel the bottom of the foam board a 1/4" similar to what you show in the vid so it will extend into the tub and down to the tub deck. So what's the problem? The flange is curved so there will be a small area where this is nothing since I will be cutting a right angle back bevel to go over a curved flange.. I was thinking about using a gap filler product in this tiny area when pressing the foam board into position to eliminate any potential deflection. Is there a flaw in my logic? I can't find any installation vids that deal with foam board over a curved flange.
Will this work with Kerdi Board?
Could've used this cheat code today 😂. Cheat code noted for all future tub/shower jobs.
What do you do when the foam board meets the dry wall
Great video!!! Thanks for all the pointers. 💛🌻
Thanks for watching
you just saved me a ton of unnecessary work. thank you!
no wall insulation 1st ?
I just left your seminar and left a message there so feel free to respond either here or there. You’re using foam here but I have backer board, so where does the backer board come down? Is it on top of the flange or over it? And if so, how do I prevent weeping if it’s over the flange - thanks
To the top of the lip, fill the gap with thinset, liquid apply waterproofing membrane to tie it in
I think a router with a cutting bit would do this trick faster. Great video
Resting the backer on the tub creates a cleaning problem. Backer should butt to the top of the flange, tiles hang down a little below the flange, no silicone required and cleaning is easy.
You can use green board, then KERDI to waterproof… then tile over it.
I have no space and have never had a leak.
Why would you do all those extra steps though?
thanks girl
durock and Redguard ,simple yet more than enough ..
8:11 A cheat code that will get your warranty claim denied lol
I would have used a end cut-off knife for the board
Time to get an electric caulk dispenser! Dewalt and Milwaukee make ones.
I don’t remember what they’re called, but there are manual ones that somehow multiply the pressure so you don’t have to squeeze as hard. I bought one to easily dispense concrete epoxy.
Easier to staple up cardboard drywall shims, or paint stir sticks.
violates the kerdi board instructions, so confusing why you would suggest for a similar laticrete foam board product
If you watch this video from Schluter here, they also accept using sealant to seal the flange and the board th-cam.com/video/hs9w6VEM_pc/w-d-xo.html the only difference we are doing is fileting the back of the board to have the fabric sit over the flange with sealant added to the back and the front similiar to what Schluter suggests for their system. As stated in our video this isn't necessarily in the data sheet directions, but it doesn't mean it will fail.
@@ThatTileChick yeah watched just b4 yours. I guess they drop the board to the tub when there is no flange on the tub. As u say it might be just technicalities. I am particularly concerned about the flange as I am doing an acrylic shower pan with flange.
Waterproofing sealant is thick viscous stuff. A proper caulking gun makes a world of difference. I know your pain.
So I guess that’s Chris
Not first again. Good content.
Board shouldnt even touch the tub thats the right way not making up stuff
She said tile and grout is not waterproof. Tile and epoxy grout is. If your not using epoxy make sure you seal your grout. Now just sit whatever board your using on the tub flange. Seal the joint with caulk. Spread the thinset on your first row of tile only where it will make contact with the board and not the tub flange so when the caulk fails (which it will) the water doesn't wick up the thinset. And for the finish edges being flush to the rest of the bathroom wall. Use tile edge trim and whatever gap you have (won't be more than a 1/4 inch to a 3/8 inch) just caulk it. Problem solved.
tile is not waterproof and neither is epoxy grout.
cdn.laticrete.com/~/media/product-documents/product-data-sheets/lds0300_spectralock-2000-ig.ashx?la=en&vs=1&d=20171212T164458Z&hash=BB0C2F79B1FA224EF19B2C5B3379258B88C96930
That is the data sheet for a premium industrial grade epoxy grout that states under limitations that it is NOT a replacement for waterproofing.
Additionally this board is closed cell EPS foam. Water will not wick up this material at all. Also the sealant is not silicon its a special sealant made just for waterproofing.
That's why I always say, check with manufacturer reps and recommendations before making up your own rules.
Tile and grout is not water proof dude... why do you think showers and wall boards on tubs need to be water proofed
@@NunYaaBizz Again, water does not penetrate epoxy or porcelain tile. Test it out. To answer your question, waterproof the board because if there's a failure in the grout application you have backup. Also because things like redgard are also a vapor barrier. I never said don't waterproof your board. I said epoxy and tile is waterproof.
@@halflight87 how often do you use epoxy grout? And in what situations? Because they don't use it much in the real world. Just curious. Unless it's a steam shower or your tennis club house with a bunch of showers , usually epoxy grout is not used, it's not even bought that much.
I can confirm that epoxy grout is waterproof and almost bullet proof, but I wouldn’t trust it as a substitute for a waterproof membrane. That would be like playing Russian roulette!
Not really the most professional video I've seen likely, but there were two things I found very interesting....
First
Trophy time!!!! Mine was awesome and I use it almost every day! Let us know what you get!!
Nobody care LOL
@@UsernameUnkwn21 stay mad, boomer
@@uzack3 stay SAD ..looser who thinks being 1st in the comments of a YT video is 'something' just means you have No Life
@@UsernameUnkwn21 you will never be first. Pathetic.
If it not approved by the manufacturer then why are you doing it? That voids the warranty and if it fails you are stuck with the cost of repairs. Stopped watching after that
Ricky, the manufacturer uses rules that protect their corporation. Have you done much building repair work?
If you think they are ever going to honor the "warranty" you're crazy.
@@brodeebell7002 took the words out of my mouth lol. Was gonna ask “and how many warranties have you had claims honored on?? On any type of product whatsoever” 😂
I've seen better
Ditch the music. It's distracting. They don't play music in school when teaching a class, why do people use it in their tutorials?
This tells me you literally only watched the first 32 seconds of the video which is an introduction so there is music. The only other music in this video is at the end in the outro. Don't like it, don't watch =)
This is why women don't do this type of work. You are not able to do it correctly. Enjoy the mold issues...
You must be someone who still uses hardie backer and red guard. Also single
@@shanetrinklein5605 No, I do things properly. Not like Affirmative Action trash.
Great Tip. @latictete board is the best!
Good job. Mis