Thank you! I thought a lot about how to explain it all as clearly as possible. I wasn't sure about filling in the blanks, so it's good to know it is useful.
Thank you! This is SO HELPFUL!! In this video for the armhole you bind off 5, then dec 1 over 6 knit rows. I am wondering how you figure that. Is there another video to calculate dec on armholes (1) and dec on armhole in conjunction with V neck decreases. Last thing, is there a reason why the 5 armhole bind offs are done on 2 rows and not all 10 (5 on right front, 5 on left front) on the SAME row? thank you!
I found that designers are all over the board about distributing armhole bind offs/decreases. The conventional wisdom is to bind off one inch at the underarm, but I don't think that always works for larger sizes. In the videos on armhole shaping at th-cam.com/video/i05yRFY7gbU/w-d-xo.html, I divide the total number of armhole shaping stitches roughly in half. Half are bound off and half are worked as decreases every RS row. The reason you don't do both BO sections on the same row is that you'll end your row with your working yarn at the end of the row and a section of BO sts on your right needle. There's no place to go. Try it on a small swatch to see what I'm talking about.
The contrasting yarns I use are to mark increases and decreases--it's just one technique for tracking your shaping stitches. Any technique you prefer if fine. I also use a scrap yarn to mark the underarm bind off row. Hope I have understood your question....If not, please give me more info.
If I don't have to make my neck decreases on the wrong side. Do I make the first decrease immediately after I put the centre stitch on the marker? Or do wait until I finish the row and the next which is the purl row so that I do both decreases on the same row.
This is helpful, I am a beginning knitter and I made up a pattern for a beach cover up. I want to make this a v neck with a garter stich--why are you putting the different color yarn in? Do I need to do that? My stitch is a very loose ssk, k2tog pattern on large needles, I'm not sure how I would do that.
Sorry Paula, I just found my answer in the 1st video re how to proceed with the neck decreases but I have another question: I am making a drop shoulders sweater with V-neck. Would the sleeve width or the measurement from shoulder to underarm be longer than on a set in sleeve? Thank you.
Hi, I know how to read a pattern, is the pattern for the v-neck sweater in your book along with all the information that you talk about in your videos?
My book does not contain a pattern in the traditional sense--it is all about showing you how to design and knit the sweater you want. The book shows how to design and knit a traditional or standard V-neck (i.e., neck shaping begins on the same row as the armhole bind offs). You can of course use the information to change the neck shaping however you want. Everything in the videos is in my e-book, plus more. Hope that answers your question.
Thank you, I've already started got the ribbing done and about 2 inches of the body, time to remeasure the width as it seems my 232 stitches looser than the swat hope I don't have to start over but if I do like you say better now than later, I'm always afraid to lose stitches when removing them all from the needle is this a must or can one do it with stitches still on the needle? What do you think?
Unintentional--I was binding off those first stitches and simply forgot to knit it--no harm done, however. Some knitters feel that slipping the first stitch gives you a nicer edge that is easier to seam during final assembly. Others think it's a horrible technique. There are experts in both camps. Another way is to knit the first stitch, even on purl rows--proponents claim the resulting column of bumps is easier to seam. You get to choose.
Yes, it is standard sweater design for the front and back to be the same. The Nihon Vogue knitting method shapes the front and back armholes differently (the way sewing patterns used to), but that's a pretty advanced design technique. I don't think it's used much in the U.S.
@afidnos61 If you have not watched Parts 1 & 2 of this group, you may find them helpful. If you have watched them and still have questions, I would be happy to answer them if I can. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I thought a lot about how to explain it all as clearly as possible. I wasn't sure about filling in the blanks, so it's good to know it is useful.
I learn a lot with your videos. Thanks
Thank you! This is SO HELPFUL!! In this video for the armhole you bind off 5, then dec 1 over 6 knit rows. I am wondering how you figure that. Is there another video to calculate dec on armholes (1) and dec on armhole in conjunction with V neck decreases. Last thing, is there a reason why the 5 armhole bind offs are done on 2 rows and not all 10 (5 on right front, 5 on left front) on the SAME row? thank you!
I found that designers are all over the board about distributing armhole bind offs/decreases. The conventional wisdom is to bind off one inch at the underarm, but I don't think that always works for larger sizes. In the videos on armhole shaping at th-cam.com/video/i05yRFY7gbU/w-d-xo.html, I divide the total number of armhole shaping stitches roughly in half. Half are bound off and half are worked as decreases every RS row. The reason you don't do both BO sections on the same row is that you'll end your row with your working yarn at the end of the row and a section of BO sts on your right needle. There's no place to go. Try it on a small swatch to see what I'm talking about.
there is no one like you tks!!!
The contrasting yarns I use are to mark increases and decreases--it's just one technique for tracking your shaping stitches. Any technique you prefer if fine. I also use a scrap yarn to mark the underarm bind off row. Hope I have understood your question....If not, please give me more info.
If I don't have to make my neck decreases on the wrong side. Do I make the first decrease immediately after I put the centre stitch on the marker? Or do wait until I finish the row and the next which is the purl row so that I do both decreases on the same row.
This is helpful, I am a beginning knitter and I made up a pattern for a beach cover up. I want to make this a v neck with a garter stich--why are you putting the different color yarn in? Do I need to do that? My stitch is a very loose ssk, k2tog pattern on large needles, I'm not sure how I would do that.
Sorry Paula, I just found my answer in the 1st video re how to proceed with the neck decreases but I have another question: I am making a drop shoulders sweater with V-neck. Would the sleeve width or the measurement from shoulder to underarm be longer than on a set in sleeve? Thank you.
Generally you can use the same shoulder-underarm depth. The drop-shoulder will put that width farther down your arm. Hope that helps.
Hi, I know how to read a pattern, is the pattern for the v-neck sweater in your book along with all the information that you talk about in your videos?
My book does not contain a pattern in the traditional sense--it is all about showing you how to design and knit the sweater you want. The book shows how to design and knit a traditional or standard V-neck (i.e., neck shaping begins on the same row as the armhole bind offs). You can of course use the information to change the neck shaping however you want. Everything in the videos is in my e-book, plus more. Hope that answers your question.
Thank you, I've already started got the ribbing done and about 2 inches of the body, time to remeasure the width as it seems my 232 stitches looser than the swat hope I don't have to start over but if I do like you say better now than later, I'm always afraid to lose stitches when removing them all from the needle is this a must or can one do it with stitches still on the needle? What do you think?
Unintentional--I was binding off those first stitches and simply forgot to knit it--no harm done, however. Some knitters feel that slipping the first stitch gives you a nicer edge that is easier to seam during final assembly. Others think it's a horrible technique. There are experts in both camps. Another way is to knit the first stitch, even on purl rows--proponents claim the resulting column of bumps is easier to seam. You get to choose.
do you do the same arm hole decrease for the back part?
Yes, it is standard sweater design for the front and back to be the same. The Nihon Vogue knitting method shapes the front and back armholes differently (the way sewing patterns used to), but that's a pretty advanced design technique. I don't think it's used much in the U.S.
Paula Ward
I'm not sure which stitches you mean...? At which point?
thank you!
You are most welcome!
It seems that she knows very well knitting around the neck but i cannot do it.
I prefer someone showing how to do it with details
@afidnos61 If you have not watched Parts 1 & 2 of this group, you may find them helpful. If you have watched them and still have questions, I would be happy to answer them if I can. Thanks for watching!