Looks like a model 1006, mid to late 80s. Nice snare. I have one but it has a different throw. Good tip on using the foil; it works really well on hoops I find. I then put Renaissance Wax on metal parts after cleaning as it keeps fingerprints at bay.
I bought a pawn shop snare sitting on the floor piled up with junk. Paid 40$ US Dollars solid chrome and rusted lugs. Watched your video to clean the rust bucket and it's a beauty now. Only 1 lug was missing. Stand, practice pads 1973 music book and 1983 cassette on drum practice.
chrome over brass won't suffer from this problem, only steel sheels will exhibit rust on top of the clear chromium, which is generally quite easy to remove, but with pitting to alumnium shells, nothing is going to work except re-plating. Pitting is the bright nickel coming away from the aluminium, and, as it's under a layer of clear chromium, it chips or pits at the other wise smooth finish, akin to the the peeling of skin, after sunburn. Rust on top of clear chromium is some form of osmosis, well actually chromium is porous, where particles of the steel shell have come through the layers and are sitting on a shiny tough coat of chromium, so you can generally soak it for awhile with a liquid cleaning agent, then gently remove it being careful not to rub it into the chromium and scratch the surface. Brass is non ferrous so does not rust.What will happen to brass if not chromium plated is tarnishing to a polished raw brass shell. COB or chromium over brass tend to always look new, even decades later, and makes it easier, along with a magnet, to identify a brass shell. An equally old alloy shell will probably show some signs of pitting or chrome cancer. Using ultra fine steel wool with plenty of water, or dry aluminium foil work well on rusted steel shells -COS.Always remember, the clear chromium is what protects the bright nickel underneath, so take care not to scratch or compromise it's integrity, otherwise the metal beneath will be open to the elements
Wow who knew I have a Tama swingstar snare I found on the side of the road from 1985...(I narrowed that down by serial number)..it has this problem. Now I just need to do this and also get a snare strainer system the dumbass removed
Looks like a model 1006, mid to late 80s. Nice snare. I have one but it has a different throw. Good tip on using the foil; it works really well on hoops I find. I then put Renaissance Wax on metal parts after cleaning as it keeps fingerprints at bay.
I bought a pawn shop snare sitting on the floor piled up with junk.
Paid 40$ US Dollars solid chrome and rusted lugs. Watched your video to clean the rust bucket and it's a beauty now. Only 1 lug was missing. Stand, practice pads 1973 music book and 1983 cassette on drum practice.
chrome over brass won't suffer from this problem, only steel sheels will exhibit rust on top of the clear chromium, which is generally quite easy to remove, but with pitting to alumnium shells, nothing is going to work except re-plating. Pitting is the bright nickel coming away from the aluminium, and, as it's under a layer of clear chromium, it chips or pits at the other wise smooth finish, akin to the the peeling of skin, after sunburn. Rust on top of clear chromium is some form of osmosis, well actually chromium is porous, where particles of the steel shell have come through the layers and are sitting on a shiny tough coat of chromium, so you can generally soak it for awhile with a liquid cleaning agent, then gently remove it being careful not to rub it into the chromium and scratch the surface. Brass is non ferrous so does not rust.What will happen to brass if not chromium plated is tarnishing to a polished raw brass shell. COB or chromium over brass tend to always look new, even decades later, and makes it easier, along with a magnet, to identify a brass shell. An equally old alloy shell will probably show some signs of pitting or chrome cancer. Using ultra fine steel wool with plenty of water, or dry aluminium foil work well on rusted steel shells -COS.Always remember, the clear chromium is what protects the bright nickel underneath, so take care not to scratch or compromise it's integrity, otherwise the metal beneath will be open to the elements
Nice tip. Thanks 👍
Wow who knew I have a Tama swingstar snare I found on the side of the road from 1985...(I narrowed that down by serial number)..it has this problem. Now I just need to do this and also get a snare strainer system the dumbass removed
It seems Premier chrome seems to be much worse than other drum companies. Imo